Mannings Hotel Lemon Street, Truro, Cornwall (01872-247900).
The menu at Mannings, a handsome hotel restaurant in Truro, is long and “extraordinarily restless”, says Jay Rayner in The Observer – as if “written by a wellfunded backpacker” recalling the culinary highlights of jaunts to Italy, Japan, Mexico, Thailand and the Americas. Naturally, I feared the worst: could one kitchen really pull all this off? The answer is a resounding yes. A massaman curry of long-braised lamb has “depths you could lose yourself in”. Tom kha soup, bobbing with fat prawns, is “a big sweet-sour savoury broth, with the bellow and shout of fish sauce”. A plate of “sashimi-grade” tuna is just that, and dressed with a sticky soy-lime glaze of the sort you could happily lick off your fingers. My companions enjoy…
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The Week United Kingdom (Digital) - 1 Issue, V. 1076