Tables for Two: Café Clover

10 Downing St. (212-675-4350)

Amelia Lester

IN CITY WHERE YOU could theoretically eat a different preparation of pork belly every night, there are two things that might make Café Clover a tough sell. The first is that the menu was designed with the help of a nutritionist aiming to shave of calories wherever possible. The second is that this temple of wellness is situated at Manhattan’s most vexed spot, at least for restaurants: the corner of Sixth Ave. and Downing St., where a triangular room with the feel of a cruise-ship bow has thwarted the ambition of so many chefs. The oddly shaped space has been made to look as lovely as it can be; Aegean-blue banquettes help. And, sure enough, all the usual health foods are in attendance: flax, chia, sunflower seeds. In fact, these three…

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The New Yorker (Digital) - 1 Issue, Mar-16-15

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