SOUTHERNMOST TROUT

In the heart of Patagonia lies a land suspended in time, one teeming with some of the world’s richest—and most improbable—stretches for fly fishing

By MONTE BURKE

ON OUR SECOND NIGHT AT CINCO RIOS LODGE IN SOUTHERN CHILE, Sebastian Galilea, the lodge’s enthusiastic majority owner, tells us the story of the “lost grape of Bordeaux.” The Carmenère, the forty-seven-year-old explains, originally grew in Bordeaux as one of the French region’s foundational grapes. Winemakers used it to produce a coveted varietal, a medium-bodied red with a certain zest that, to many oenophiles, elevated it above similar wines, like merlot. Around 1867, though, catastrophe struck. A plague of phylloxera—a grape-destroying insect—decimated the Carmenère grape in Bordeaux. Attempts to replant it failed. Carmenère wine, it was believed, had gone extinct. Then, in 1994, a noted French expert in cultivated grapes, Jean-Michel Boursiquot, came to Chile to take part in a wine symposium. In his free time, he visited a local…

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Garden & Gun (Digital) - 1 Issue, October/November 2024

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