Seizing the Day

A MEMPHIS CHEF’S MODERN HOMAGE TO THE BREAKFAST JOINTS OF OLD

BY JOHN T. EDGE

My sausage biscuit arrives with a bullet of house-made strawberry jam. Before the square of dough went in the oven, a cook shellacked it with egg wash to give the outside crunch and structure. After it emerged golden and smelling faintly of herbes de Provence, another cook brushed the top with honey and scattered salt flakes that now sparkle in the light of overhead globes. I pull silverware from a crinkly paper sleeve as a fuchsia-haired waitress glides through the room. The man in the next booth wears a Stax Records T-shirt and sips coffee from a mug with a yolk-colored logo and the slogan KINFOLK, BUSY BURNIN’ DAYLIGHT. That biscuit costs eight dollars, more than your father paid for a sausage biscuit, and probably more than you and I…

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Garden & Gun (Digital) - 1 Issue, October/November 2024

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