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41 Articles

EDITOR’S LETTER

Franca Sozzani 1950 – 2016 As we all know, women do not always beat the odds. But in planning our March issue, we decided to take a moment to celebrate the strong, original female designers who have shaped our industry and who never stop inspiring and provoking us. Just like the incredible models on this month’s cover, these bold and unconventional women show us new ways to think and engage with the life that is changing so fast around us. Sadly, as we were preparing to go to press, my dear friend (and counterpart at Italian Vogue) Franca Sozzani lost her battle with cancer. I can think of no one more creative, bold, or inspiring. I dedicate this issue to her. Franca and I both became editors in chief in the eighties, but that…

EDITOR’S LETTER

In order to court inspiration for a book, writer NELL STEVENS sought out one of the most isolated places on Earth: Bleaker Island. This is a landscape an art-therapy patient might paint to represent depression: gray sky and a sweep of featureless peat rising out of the sea. The water is the same color as the clouds; it is !ecked by white-capped waves, spikes of black rock, and, intermittently, the silvery spines of dolphins. I pace from room to room in the empty house, testing out the silence with occasional noises: “Hi! Ha! Who! How!” My "ngers are sti# with cold. When I open my notebook, I fumble with the pages; I struggle to grip the pen. I write the title of a journal entry: “Bleaker Island, Day One.” Beneath it,…

Should a tech giant give us more information—or better information? Robert Sullivan meets Yasmin Green, a researcher pushing Google to make the world a safer place. In a small conference room at Google’s New York City headquarters, Yasmin Green is about to get some bad news. Green, 35, is the head of research and development at Jigsaw—the tech giant’s in-house think tank—and the trouble at hand has to do with trolls, those who foment anger and disrupt discourse online. People tend to think of trolls in terms of random harassment, teenagers with too much time on their hands, but these in particular are globally scattered and state-sponsored, targeting journalists and activists, an independent press, or outspoken citizens. Trolls are big, for instance, in Iran, where Green was born (her family !ed…

MEMORIES ARE MADE OF THIS

A lifelong love of creating what we wear can spring from the most personal moments. We asked fifteen designers to tell us about their first fashion memories. “When I was growing up in Bordeaux in the nineties, Paris and its fashion world seemed a whole lot farther away than just a six-hour car ride,” says the Balmain creative director. “I was a good student, but I would often find myself lost in daydreams—almost always triggered by the amazing images of that era’s fashion. I was enthralled, watching as fashion transformed itself and the world around it—in particular the music that my friends and I listened to. Runway shows of that time were like nothing that had come before—I loved the liberating and invigorating energy that was on display, especially from someone…

MEMORIES ARE MADE OF THIS

A college dropout working as a secretary sneaked into a poetry workshop led by Robert Lowell and changed her prospects forever. By Megan Marshall. I was the worst kind of student poet, nearly illiterate in contemporary poetry and writing to resolve a feeling of drift that had overtaken me the year before as a junior at Bennington College. And I wasn’t a student. My restlessness had led me to drop out of college—schoolwork, even at Bennington, which gave no grades, felt like too much pressure—and move to Cambridge, taking a room in a communal apartment at $27 a month (heat not included) and a secretarial job at Harvard, working in the college registrar’s o!ce in the Holyoke Center, just one "oor below the conference room where I was now sitting. Getting…

Say yes to the defiant and optimistic shine of sequins, glitter, and glimmer. When we come to look back at the surreal, strife-torn, and turbulent times we’re living in, what will we see reflected back at us in the mirror of fashion? Of all the improbable things, I’m banking on the emotional solace of the million and more spangles the designers have liberally sprinkled all over the shows, from New York to London and Milan and back. I’m holding a tiny, glinting blue object in the palm of my hand as I think this over, and it’s making me smile. It’s been shed from a T-shirt made by Michael Halpern, a young American designer from upstate New York. Halpern, a 2016 graduate of Central Saint Martins, is at what you might call…

When it came to the prospect of playing Paula, the crack-addicted single mother in Moonlight, Naomie Harris had her reservations.The role seemed at odds with the empowering female characters on her résumé: zombie slayer in 28 Days Later, Nelson Mandela’s gutsy wife Winnie in Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom, and James Bond’s no-nonsense colleague, Eve Moneypenny, in Skyfall and Spectre. Ultimately, though, it was the script for this moving coming-of-age story—and director Barry Jenkins’s personal connection to it—that would sway her decision. “No other director has asked me to play their mother,” says Harris, 40. “[Jenkins] was invested in ensuring that Paula didn’t become a stereotype, and that she was given her full humanity.” Shot over the course of just three days, Harris’s part in the _lm—which earned her a…

OBJECTS OF THEIR DESIRE

A growing group of young fashion designers is reaching beyond the runway and finding inspiration in the beauty of things. The old way of fashion creation—designers inspired by fashion itself, using the things we wear to spark ideas about making the things we’ll want to try next—is being upstaged. Now there’s a new group of designers—Sander Lak at Sies Marjan, Jonathan Anderson at J.W.Anderson and Loewe, and Jonathan Saunders at Diane von Furstenberg, among others—who, while long accustomed to curating their own physical environments via the collecting, assembling, and arranging of everything from furniture to pottery to rugs and textiles and beyond, are honing not just their designs but their take on what they do, their view of the world, and what their labels stand for. In a search for value…

OBJECTS OF THEIR DESIRE

A fresh crop of culinary talent is rewriting the menu in the food world—just don’t call them chefs. Call it culinary fatigue: Between our aptly named social-media “feeds” and the constant chase to the latest destination restaurants, the days when three square meals were enough to satisfy the appetite seem quaint—which makes this new guard of gourmets all the more of a palate cleanse. These three innovators in the food scene are neither working the line nor brandishing Michelin stars. Instead, they’re staking out their own territories at the intersection of the culinary and art (yes, art) worlds. And for two spheres long dominated by men with bravura personalities, it’s telling that some of the most nuanced voices now inhabiting the gray spaces in between happen to be women. The hors d’oeuvres…

Elisabeth TNT learns what it takes to put together the 2017 Whitney Biennial. The first thing that strikes me about Christopher Y. Lew and Mia Locks—the curators of the new Whitney Biennial—is how cool they seem. Especially considering their monumental task: ranging through every thinkable genre to assemble America’s most happening artists. Add the pressure of mounting the !rst Biennial in the Whitney’s spectacular new home . . . but Mia and Chris show no signs of intimidation when I meet them on a cold December morning. Chris is the shier one, but he reveals himself to be an engaging storyteller. Mia is outgoing, fast paced; she gets right in there. They worked at MoMA PS1 together and are as tight as it gets. Assembling the show was deeply collaborative— but did they ever…

FIND YOUR LIGHT

Spring’s brightest statement—LED lighting—illuminated its way across some of the showiest runways in the game. Dolce & Gabbana engineered towering block heels with embedded lightemitting diodes. At Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld released handbags with blinking, scrolling motherboards seen through perforated leather amid a runway of supercomputers, an ode to mass technology. Issey Miyake is making purses with e-reader–like screens. Recently, Nike introduced its self-lacing Mag high-tops; 89 pairs were made, each featuring a light-up sole pulsing with cyan illumination. Even Cottweiler, the edgy men’s streetwear label out of London, proposed LED navel piercings for its fall 2017 collection. Last October, Nieves Zuberbühler preempted the trend by wearing a shorn-off Brandon Maxwell dress with bulb-ringed platform sneakers at the after-party of her Halloween nuptials to Julio Santo Domingo—and she’d do it again: “I’d…

FIND YOUR LIGHT

Prabal Gurung’s first-time collection for Lane Bryant sends a powerful message: Big really is beautiful. For the longest time, ‘plus-size’ was put on the back burner. It was like, ‘You can’t sit with us—you’re not glamorous!’ ” says Prabal Gurung, explaining his passionate commitment to diversity. Gurung, who is 37 and was born in Singapore and raised in Nepal, has just launched his !rst limited-edition collaboration with Lane Bryant—twelve key looks that include blown-out "orals and nipped-in waists, horizontal stripes and the indispensable cropped biker jacket. Though he is justly proud of all the pieces, Gurung says he is especially enamored of “a chunky knit, a great trench for layering, and a sexy-yetsophisticated jumpsuit to go from day to night.” The collection pays scant attention to the outmoded and frankly dumb…

THE HAMISH FILES

For Hubert de Givenchy, his first visit to the Château du Jonchet 40 years ago was a coup de foudre. The dilapidated, mist-swathed eighteenthcentury mansion, encircled by a moat, reminded the great couturier of the mysterious house in Alain-Fournier’s 1912 novel Le Grand Meaulnes; he fell in love on the spot. “How could one resist the building’s harmonious restraint, and the well-preserved beauty of its natural surroundings?” he noted. Built in its current incarnation in 1763 around an earlier structure by the architect Gabriel de Lestrade, the château once served as a retirement home for the Duchesse de Tourzel, governess to the children of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette, but had fallen into a ruinous state by the 1950s, when the architect and urban planner Fernand Pouillon stepped in to save…

THE HAMISH FILES

For years I have been captivated by the idea of Brasilia, the architecturally Utopian capital of Brazil conceived in the 1950s to replace overgrown Rio as the country’s government hub. This new capital—plunked surreally in the middle of the deserted tropical savanna—was the brainchild of then-president Juscelino Kubitschek, who commissioned the architect Oscar Niemeyer, the urban planner Lúcio Costa, and the landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx to create a Jetsonian city that reflected the optimism of the age. Their collective vision prefigures the freeform drama of many great contemporary starchitects—including the late Dame Zaha Hadid, Sir Norman Foster, and Bjarke Ingels—by a half century. Fresh from a talk at the luxury mall Iguatemi during São Paulo Fashion Week, I set off at dawn for this Xanadu and raced around the city…

FORCES TO RECKON WITH

As Vogue marks its 125th anniversary, we celebrate these heroines who know no bounds. Progress takes strength and vision. The women who lead and shape our culture embody these traits—and share an indomitable pioneering spirit. In making their mark, they have gained a greater—one could say overdue—foothold in the places that matter, from the White House and courthouse to the executive suite and Olympic podium. Take Michelle Obama. The nation’s !rst African-American First Lady left nothing less than a historic imprint on that o"ce. Or Serena Williams, who has conquered the worlds of both sport and fashion. Or Lena Dunham, who is changing the way a generation of women and girls sees itself. Vogue has always celebrated formidable women, and in recent years each of the !gures appearing on the following pages has…

FORCES TO RECKON WITH

BACK TO THE FUTURE

With the spring runways cementing an eighties beauty revival, three makeup artists reflect on the era’s sense of creativity and community—and why its spirit is resonating anew. The one-time club kid, known for his imaginative self-styling, brings a no-rules attitude to the runway at shows like Jeremy Scott. The music video for David Bowie’s “Ashes to Ashes” inspired my first experiment with makeup: a contouring in blue and white done with my mother’s old kit from the sixties. You had to see everything on TV then, which made things so much more precious; you had to remember it, or you had to be there with the trigger to your VCR, like you were a photographer catching the moment. When I moved to New York at 20, I modeled and did my own…

BACK TO THE FUTURE

SPLASH OF THE TITANS

Alber Elbaz joins forces with perfume legend Frédéric Malle on a new scent that captures the history—and wearability—of a cherished garment. When Frédéric Malle first approached the designer Alber Elbaz about a potential collaboration, Elbaz had one question for him: “You think you can make a perfume that smells like a dress?” It was a characteristically unconventional approach for the creative iconoclasts. Malle, the alchemist behind Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, works with the world’s most renowned noses to curate fragrances that enjoy cult status. Elbaz, who had brought his whimsical, woman-friendly spirit to Guy Laroche and Yves Saint Laurent, ignited the fashion world while at Lanvin until his unceremonious ouster two years ago. The men admired each other only from afar. “There was something unique,” Elbaz recalls of Malle. “He…

SPLASH OF THE TITANS

THE ETSY EFFECT

By giving independent, ingredient-focused makers a ground-up lesson in business, Etsy is fast becoming the new beauty school for the small-batch movement. W eeks before Marc Jacobs’s spring show, an assistant on hairstylist Guido Palau’s team found Jena Counts via an Internet search for candy-colored dreadlocks—a crucial (and ultimately controversial) accompaniment to Jacobs’s rave-inspired collection. A soft-spoken grandmother from Palatka, Florida, Counts had turned an idle-hands hobby of boiling, spinning, and custom-dyeing wool hair extensions into a homegrown business, and after tinting samples in every shade of the psychedelic rainbow, she got a ticket to New York—and a jaw-dropping commission of 12,500 pieces from Jacobs. “You couldn’t even walk in my living room! We had them stacked everywhere,” Counts recalls of the whirlwind production process. By the time she and her…

THE ETSY EFFECT

Meet five Etsy-born brands turning handmade goods into the latest beauty must-haves. French Girl Organics With an SEO gold mine of a name, the Seattle-based skin-care line dedicated to straightforward, nourishing formulas has already landed on shelves at Anthropologie, Credo, and Goop. The New Natural Call of the Vialed !"#$%: Berkeley perfumer Lauren Blevins teases out nuanced, intriguing compositions—like the sensuous, rosewood-laced Vialed Flower—while steering clear of synthetic notes. The Hippie Fix Fat and the Moon Founder Rachel Budde’s Grass Valley, California, apothecary collection draws on herbal remedies, like the St. John’s Wort and calendula in her All Salve, and features hand-drawn labels. The Power Player Yoshimomo Botanique Packed with hardworking ingredients like alpha hydroxy acids and activated charcoal, the New York complexion range evokes the simplicity and efficacy of Japanese beauty regimens. The Overnight Sensation Bitter Lace Beauty After Jenna Georgescu’s rainbow Prism…

CREATURE COMFORTS

As new research reveals the importance of nurturing the living organisms both in—and on—the body, skin health may hinge on an optimized microbiome I met Nina during a work trip to Moscow in the latter days of the Soviet Union, long before luxury cosmetics boutiques began to revive the barren spaces under the city’s faded colonnades. Her skin was untouched by pricey Parisian creams, yet it dazzled—a glow she attributed to a homespun beauty secret: ke_r, or fermented milk, which she slathered on her face. The creamy substance was loaded with lactobacillus and other live microorganisms that calmed irritation, Nina explained, much to my intrigue (and slight horror). Almost 30 years later, the beauty industry has latched onto the same idea of nurturing the microbiome—the bacteria, viruses, and fungi present on…

CREATURE COMFORTS

COMPOSITION CLASS

Those of us who are not overweight may still possess a dangerous amount of body fat. We’ve all heard the phrase “skinny fat,” but it’s also possible to be “skinny fit fat”—meaning even size 4 Flywheel devotees can be dangerously flabby. In January, researchers reported that 76 percent of the world’s population could be “overfat”—a new designation defined as carrying enough body fat to cause health problems—and up to 40 percent of people who are not overweight count as obese from a metabolic perspective. Most advisory groups agree that having more than 31 percent body fat is too high—and fit women should be 24 percent or lower, according to the American Council on Exercise. Yet when Swiss researchers looked at 83 female participants in a recent half marathon, their fat makeup averaged…

COMPOSITION CLASS

In her highly anticipated return to Broadway, Phillipa Soo stars as the winsome Parisienne of Amélie. the word luminous gets tossed around a lot, but when it comes to describing Phillipa Soo onstage, no other adjective will do. As the director Pam MacKinnon puts it, “It’s like, Wait a second—is there a spotlight on her? Nope, it’s just her inner glow.” Soo !rst lit up the stage, fresh out of Juilliard, as a lovelorn Tolstoy heroine in the 2012 O"-Broadway pop-musical Natasha, Pierre & the Great Comet of 1812. She went on to earn a Tony nomination for her moving turn as Eliza Hamilton, opposite Lin-Manuel Miranda, in Hamilton. Now, under MacKinnon’s direction, the 26-year-old actress is bringing her brand of incandescence—not to mention her ravishing soprano—back to Broadway, in the…

The strikingly original new PBS Masterpiece drama To Walk Invisible: The Brontë Sisters drops us into the oppressive Yorkshire parsonage where the creators of Jane Eyre and Wuthering Heights grew up. Set from 1845 to 1848, it gives us the three adult sisters— ambitious Charlotte (Finn Atkins), inwardly roiling Emily (Chloe Pirrie), and peacemaker Anne (Charlie Murphy)— who fight to get taken seriously in an era so dismissive of women that even their father (Jonathan Pryce) can’t see they’re more talented than the family pet, their alcoholic brother, Branwell (Adam Nagaitis). Closer in spirit to Mike Leigh’s Mr. Turner than, well, Masterpiece Theatre, the show was written and directed by Sally Wainwright (Happy Valley), who grew up eight miles from the Brontës’ village of Haworth and clearly feels their story…

the landmark exhibition of photographs by Irving Penn, which opens next month at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, will make you stop, contemplate, and see Penn all over again. Timed to the hundredth anniversary of his birth, “Irving Penn: Centennial” spans his 70-year career through 225 works from all the genres he mastered and transcended—fashion, still life, the nude, portraiture. “We’re showing the most celebrated and iconic, and also the rarest images—work that he kept for himself,” says Je! L. Rosenheim, the Met’s chief photography curator, who cocurated the exhibition with Maria Morris Hambourg. When Penn was starting out, a quiet, watchful young art student born in Plainfield, New Jersey, he wanted to be a painter. He studied design at the Pennsylvania Museum and School of Industrial Art in Philadelphia in…

the Curtain in Shoreditch, London, the latest project from the Gansevoort Hotel group, features 120 rooms, a private club, and the first outpost of chef Marcus Samuelsson’s Red Rooster restaurant. The rooms’ eclectic decor fuses an industrial New York feel—exposed brick walls, oversize paned windows—with artwork by British rock photographer Mick Rock that plays o! the hotel’s live performance space, modeled after New York’s landmark CBGB. Guests can try out Samuelsson’s all-day taqueria and bar, which o!ers frijole breakfast and spicy tacos, or head upstairs to his brasserie before a dip in the year-round rooftop pool. A three-hour drive south to East Devon takes you to Lympstone Manor, a Georgian estate newly renovated by chef Michael Caines. Occupying 28 acres of parkland overlooking the Exe estuary, the property has 21 spacious…

Falling bombs in 1940s London provide the backdrop for Their Finest, Lone Scherfig’s romantic dramedy about Catrin Cole (Gemma Arterton, excellent), an unassuming copywriter hired to bring a woman’s touch to pro-British propaganda films. Paired with a cynical screenwriter, Tom Buckley— played by Sam Claflin with a pinch of Hugh Grant—she soon becomes the favorite writer of Ambrose Hilliard (Bill Nighy), a faded matinee idol who wears his narcissism like a tuxedo. Even as Scherfig (An Education) heightens the chemistry between Catrin and Tom, she deploys Ambrose as a host does champagne: Whenever things risk seeming dull, she serves up more of Nighy’s sparkle. . . . In Olivier Assayas’s offbeat ghost story Personal Shopper, Kristen Stewart plays Maureen Cartwright, a troubled young American in Paris who dresses a globe-trotting…

In the summer of 1970, Joan Didion road-tripped through Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama with her husband, John Gregory Dunne, prompted by a sense that the South was “what California seemed to me not to be: the future, the secret source of malevolent and benevolent energy, the psychic center.” South and West: From a Notebook (Knopf) reveals the author at her most fascinatingly unfiltered, recording folksy vernacular at a motel pool (where she’s the only woman with a bikini and unset hair), having G & Ts with Walker Percy, and searching fruitlessly for Faulkner’s grave in an Oxford cemetery (she finds the local pot dealer instead). A place where the “feudal situation” remains unsettlingly outspoken, where men do the hunting and women do the “prettifying,” Didion’s South is light-years from her…

Set at the dawn of email, Elif Batuman’s debut novel, The Idiot, is a coming-of-age tale of flawed first love. it’s so embarrassing and painful to be young,” says Elif Batuman over brunch at her Bedford-Stuyvesant apartment. A rubbing of a Pegasus wing by an artist friend hangs overhead; her cat, Friday, eyes the pastry before being gently banished. Her autobiographical !rst novel, The Idiot (Penguin Press), is about a freshman at Harvard in the mid-nineties, a tall, ingenuous, and very bright Turkish-American woman named Selin, who hopes to discover “what books really mean” but !nds herself mostly disappointed by her classes. “You wanted to know why Anna had to die, and instead they told you that nineteenth-century Russian landowners felt con"icted about whether they were really part of Europe.” The…

The third folksy LP from Father John Misty is just as ironic and irreverent as one would expect from the man who once feigned sleep in the audience of the Brit Awards after losing to Justin Bieber. But the album is not, as its title suggests, Pure Comedy. The former Fleet Foxes drummer (born Joshua Tillman in Maryland) wrote the majority of the songs in New Orleans, where he lived for nearly two years while abstaining from alcohol and, as he put it, “everything else—which is not in my nature.” His knowing jokes are really polemics—“At some point you just can’t control/What people use your fake name for”—that are veiled by country-music chords and harmonious violins. With Pure Comedy, Misty—who wrote for Beyoncé’s Lemonade and Karen Elson’s latest—lands himself somewhere…

SHOW OF STRENGTH

“What we as women have to really focus on now is our intention to fight for our rights, but to do it with dignity— not whining, not crying. Since we are stronger than men, we shouldn’t be afraid of our own strength.” The words belong to Diane von Furstenberg, but the sentiments could be those of any of the designers we honor in this issue—not to mention some of the feistier members of the new generation of models who grace our cover—each of them showing us that the rules about who and what is beautiful are being swept away. For the !rst time in the 125 years of Vogue’s existence—an anniversary we start celebrating this month—we’ve crafted a portfolio featuring solely the women of the fashion world. What better way to recognize…

SHOW OF STRENGTH

Alexander McQueen’s creative director has put her indelible mark on pragmatically poetic collections that draw on Britain’s history and craft heritage. Hamish Bowles travels with Burton and her team to mystic Cornwall for an inspirational walkabout. SARAH BURTON GREW UP IN THE no-nonsense North of En gland, one of !ve artistic children who was dressed, as she remembers, “in my brother’s hand-me-downs—hence the longing for beautiful clothes!” That longing eventually took her to Saint Martins art school to study fashion print design. At the time, as Burton remembers, everyone was talking about the provocative talent of a recent graduate, Alexander McQueen, who was rapidly securing a reputation as a designer of iconoclastic brilliance. Burton’s tutor, Simon Ungless, was a friend of McQueen’s and, impressed by his student’s passion for research, suggested that…

THE GREAT BEAUTY SHAKE-UP

The next wave of models is defying stereotypes by bringing us faces— and figures—for an unconventional, post-diversity, ultra-inclusive generation. Maya Singer reports What is a woman supposed to look like? Agnolo Firenzuola was certain he knew. In his in!uential 1548 treatise A Dialogue on the Beauty of Women, Firenzuola detailed the female ideal, specifying, for instance, the correct distance between the tip of the nose and the bow of the lip. “The true and right color for hair,” he wrote, “is a fair yellow.” As for ears, “a middle size is to be desired, with the shell "nely turned.” Firenzuola’s wonkish beauty decrees read as comical now. And yet: Has there ever been an era in which some beauty ideal hasn’t loomed large? In 1900, the paradigm was the Gibson girl, with…

THE GREAT BEAUTY SHAKE-UP

Brazilian-born model Caroline Trentini and her kids take a breather from the midwinter city chill with a quick trip to Rio, packing just the essentials—silky dresses, sea- and street-worthy swimsuits. PRODUCED BY MARIOTESTINO+. LOCAL PRODUCTION, CLAUDIO GOMES AND GUSTAVO DANTAS. SET DESIGN, FELIPE VELOSO.…

Brooklyn-based singer Jo Lampert rises up to star as Joan of Arc in David Byrne’s new rock musical. When the songwriter David Byrne and the director Alex Timbers were casting the lead of their new rock musical about Joan of Arc, the follow-up to their deliriously funky 2013 bio-dance-musical smash Here Lies Love, at the Public Theater, they wanted to !nd someone who brought more to the role of the pious teen warrior who dies for her faith than singing and acting chops. “We were looking for a connection to the spiritual,” Timbers recalls, “and the belief from moment one that this was someone extraordinary that we would follow on any quest.” After many auditions, Timbers remembered Jo Lampert, a young singer, actress, and DJ with a big, bluesy voice, a semi-shaved…

DIVINE UNDERSTATEMENT

Rich and restrained, elegant yet comfortable, Rose Uniacke’s interiors are places nobody wants to leave. No wonder she is sought after by an increasingly global group of discerning clients. Jane Withers reports. Follow the logic of the street numbers and this house is in the wrong place. But once you spot the understated exterior, there’s no mistaking its distinctive stamp. While its neighbors are painted the glossy cream characteristic of the smarter swaths of central London, here the facade has a patina as matte and subtly mottled as an ostrich egg. The house, owned by antiques dealer turned interior designer Rose Uniacke, opens into a hallway almost stately in scale: a sweep of stone stairs, a !replace, a work by Carl Andre (two copper plates) posing as a rug. Commissioned by the…

DIVINE UNDERSTATEMENT

Tidbits, finger food, hors d’oeuvres, canapés—on the eve of hosting a springtime soiree, Jeffrey Steingarten investigates the small world of party snacks. We’re planning a festive cocktail party for the start of spring, and we need to get it right. First, we open the dictionary, which says that a cocktail party is a gathering “intended for social conversation, at which cocktails are served, usually together with other alcoholic drinks, savory snacks, canapés, et cetera.” That’s three of life’s top pleasures wrapped up in a single package—conversation, snacks, and mild intoxication—which is why I sorely miss the cocktail-party season of a few months ago. People don’t give parties in March or April, on Good Friday or Easter Sunday, which are too serious, or during Passover, which is already a kind of cocktail…

Nestled among the sacred shrines of Japan’s Ise-Shima National Park, a tranquil geothermal-spa resort taps into the country’s time-honored bathing rituals. Paying homage to Japan’s geisha culture, Karlie Kloss soaks up the serenity. amid the lush green forests of the Ise-Shima National Park in central Japan, sharp-eyed kites see a scene beneath their wings that resembles a Japanese village from a centuries-old woodcut. Single-story minka villas, their slanting roofs scalloped with gray-green kawara tiles, rise discreetly among maples, cedars, and cherry trees along curving, rock-edged paths. The hillside tumbles to the glittering Ago Bay, where skeins of pearl-oyster nets embroider the surface of the water. A single detail gives away a contemporary time stamp: White golf carts, instead of rickshaws, convey guests around the recently opened Amanemu resort to the restaurant,…

MOMENT OF THE MONTH

The fifties are back—with a contemporary twist. This time, designers like Alessandro Dell’Acqua of Rochas and Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana of Dolce & Gabbana (among others) are getting in the retro swing of things with ball skirts and cinched waists in texture-rich fabrics and frothy, frilly lace. “The new generation doesn’t make comparisons to the past— they’re more spontaneous,” says Gabbana. Dolce finishes the thought: “They’re the ones deciding what’s of the moment. For us, the silhouette recalls the fifties, but because it’s reinterpreted with the eyes of today, it’s modern and new.” As for the finishing touch: A prim belt is a modern twist on the wasp waist—and the perfect accessory to polish off a ladylike dress. PRODUCED BY LEONE IOANNOU FOR PONY PROJECTS. PHOTOGRAPHED AT THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM…

MOMENT OF THE MONTH

KENDALL JENNER TURNS UP THE CONTRAST ON THE SEASON’S NEUTRAL LOOKS WITH A HEAVY DOSE OF T HE BOLDEST, BRIGHTEST, AND MOST HIGHLY SATURATED ACCESSORIES. PHOTOGRAPHED AT THE PARKER PALM SPRINGS. PRODUCED BY TALLULAH BERNARD FOR ROSCO PRODUCTION…

Tea dresses and delicate florals dance us into spring— a flight of fancy, yes, but one grounded by substantial (and ever-so-desirable) accessories. 1: MARIO TESTINO. 3: COURTESY OF PRADA. 4: COURTESY OF ARIEL DEARIE FLOWERS. 5: COURTESY OF ORIBE. 7: COURTESY OF TWISS MANOR. 8: DALE ROBINETTE. 9: COURTESY OF BELLOCQ. 10: COURTESY OF BERGDORF GOODMAN, NYC. 11. COURTESY OF BULGARI. ALL OTHERS: LIAM GOODMAN 12: KATE SCHELTER. 13, 17: COURTESY OF MODA OPERANDI. 14: COURTESY OF BERGDORF GOODMAN, NYC. 15: COURTESY OF EDDIE BORGO. 16: JAMIE HAWKESWORTH. 18: COURTESY OF J.W.ANDERSON. 20: COURTESY OF BALENCIAGA. 21: COURTESY OF THE PLAZA, NYC. 24: SIMONIDA DJORDJEVIC/GETTY IMAGES. 25: COURTESY OF THE RUG COMPANY. 26: COURTESY OF MARK CROSS. 27: COURTESY OF SAINT LAURENT. 28: MARCIO MADEIRA. 30: COURTESY OF HEATHER TAYLOR HOME.…

Roused by the spirit of the post-punk starlets of the 1980s, Michael Kors set out to empower with a crocodile-skin crossbody piped with an unexpected perimeter of metallic fringe (mimicked in tiered cocktail skirts and elsewhere in his pre-fall collection) for kinetic flair. The cascading chain employs both manus and machina in its construction— an exacting process requiring artisans to hand-weld metal links before machine-stitching them into place. The result: a perfect union of downtown cool and uptown polish—or “Park Avenue meets punk,” as Kors puts it. PROP STYLIST: SONIA RENTSCH. DETAILS, SEE IN THIS ISSUE.…

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