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17 Articles

Resetting perspective.

“This has been a life changing reset. I feel like I have gained a new perspective on life, grown an even stronger love for animals and become even closer with my brothers who I’ve shared this special journey with. Everywhere I look I’m surrounded by so much beauty, and I feel truly recentred and at peace. My first stop was Namibia, one of the most stunning places I’ve ever seen with my own eyes. Words and pictures do not do it justice. The hot air balloon ride was surreal.” These are the words of Sir Lewis Hamilton, seven-time Formula One World Champion and all-around very famous guy. Now, Sir Lewis and I may not have much in common. I certainly have never pushed my Landy around a racetrack at 350 km/h.…

Resetting perspective.

CCF HOSTS DELEGATION FROM SOMALILAND The Cheetah Conservation Fund (CCF), together with its local partner, Natural Resource Management Support Organisations (NACSO), hosted a delegation from the Republic of Somaliland in July. The delegation was on a 10-dav fact-finding tour of north-central Namibia. The aim of the visit was to gain institutional knowledge and experience of Namibia’s Community-Based Natural Resource Management (CBNRM), eco-tourism, and the development of concessions around protected areas. The knowledge transfer between Namibia and Somaliland will help the Somaliland government to develop its own model to meet the needs of nomadic pastoral communities while mitigating threats to wild species. A new CCF facility is being built in the country in the Horn of Africa. CCF has been working with the government of Somaliland since 2011 to combat the illegal trade…

HIKING THE naukluft

I have been fascinated by the Naukluft Mountains since my first visit to the park many years ago. This seemingly inhospitable mountain complex on the doorstep of the great Namib Sand Sea is surprisingly full of plants, birds and wildlife, thanks to numerous natural springs. Yet, very little of the Naukluft can be seen by the casual visitor. The only access road for tourists leads directly to the NWR Naukluft Camp. This is by no means an attempt to restrict vehicle traffic, as anyone who has flown over or driven on any of the roads (C19, C14 and D854) that form a circular route around the mountains can attest to. The extremely rugged terrain makes it a really unfriendly place for vehicles. The only way to explore the park is on…

HIKING THE naukluft

Khaudum National Park offers an unforgettable and authentic wilderness experience for adventurous travellers seeking solitude in one of Namibia’s most remote corners. Its deep, loose sandy tracks and large herds of elephants are legendary, and the park attracts a breed of intrepid travellers. On a recent visit to Khaudum, I decided to explore the southern half of the park from the comfort of Sikereti Camp. It reopened in July after it was closed officially in March 2019 and discouraged for use as far back as 2015 because of its dilapidated state. If you prefer sleeping under the stars, there are four spacious campsites, each with washing-up facilities, hot water showers (donkey-fired), wash basins and flush toilets. Visitors seeking luxury in the bush can opt for the self-catering en-suite safari tents, each with…

The value and virtue of vultures

I was hoping I would spot a Pygmy Falcon on my last trip to the Namib-Naukluft Park, Namibia’s largest conservation area. Small, spirited and snow-white, the bird appeared as misplaced as an Edelweiss flower in the desert. The Pygmy Falcon soared like a white star, in stark contrast to the dry riverbeds, gravel and grassy plains. Incidentally, the park of 49,768 square kilometres is slightly bigger than Switzerland. The area has at least 190 bird species. While this is also the hunting ground of other birds of prey, such as the much-admired Black-breasted Snake Eagle – not to forget the Black, Booted and Martial Eagle – it is the vultures of the area that recently stirred my interest. Following a global trend, Namibia’s vulture species are all threatened or endangered.…

The value and virtue of vultures

NAMIBIA LAID BARE

Toast Coetzer is a Cape Town-based travel journalist best known for his long association with the popular South African travel magazine Go (and its Afrikaans version, Weg). “Because Namibia is such a popular road trip destination among South Africans, I’ve been lucky enough to visit the country at least once a year, sometimes even two or three times,” Toast says. He has travelled extensively elsewhere in Africa too – with countries as diverse as Senegal, Mali, Rwanda and Uganda on his list – but believes that Namibia is the continent’s number one road trip destination. “Namibia is perfectly suited to the self-drive, adventurous traveller,” he says. “The roads are generally good, and even without a 4x4 you can reach truly spectacular destinations like Spitzkoppe, the Sesriem Canyon, Brandberg and even Epupa Falls.” Toast…

NAMIBIA LAID BARE

A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE

Crisp winter air hangs over the horizon, creating a soft white filter for every tree and hill. Looking down, you see a veil of yellow and orange mopane leaves crushing softly under your feet. In a single file line, you tread lightly, one foot in front of the other, so as to not disturb the life that surrounds you, or the black rhino spotted at the lodge’s subtly lit waterhole the previous night. The bushveld on this 30,000-hectare private game reserve bordering Etosha is a thrilling adventure. Being on foot in this environment is indescribable. Once you have soaked up the incredible animal sightings from one of Ongava’s game viewers, peeped through the viewing window at the hide, and even seen a rock hyrax scurry over the deck, it is time…

A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE

Turning travel into impact: Celebrating 10 years of TOSCO

It is October 2011. Seven tour operators gather far up north on the Skeleton Coast, at Dr Philip Stander’s station in Möwe Bay, to discuss the recent lion poisoning in the Puros Conservancy in the Kunene Region. Félix Vallat, a tour guide at that time and inspired by Garth Owen-Smith and Dr Stander, has already had conversations with these companies about the need for tourism to support conservation, and in particular assist communities who live with wildlife, if its own long-term viability is to be ensured. The uproar in the Namibian tourism industry as a result of the poisoning incident was a direct reason for stakeholders to open the dialogue. The consensus towards the end of the meeting was overwhelming: an organisation was needed to strengthen the relationship of the tourism…

Turning travel into impact: Celebrating 10 years of TOSCO

Spring TRIPPING

“Namibia lends itself to the pleasure of revelling in abundance and the magic of discovery when you take the time and effort to look closer.” Spring in Namibia offers everything to please a weather-worn traveller. Except flowers in bright colours. The sun shines every day all day from tangerine sunrise to scarlet sunset. The sky changes to different shades of blue throughout the day and temperatures are pleasantly high. It is hot and dry since most of Namibia is desert, but cool to cold at night because of the lack of moisture. This year the landscape even sports a golden hue after the good rains of the past season which ended a drought of several years. The dry natural grass cover even on mountain slopes lends a softness to the dramatic landscape…

Spring TRIPPING

Living wild in the land of Sand and Freedom: Three become four

In the beginning of our journey there were three. Two adults and a small boy with blonde hair and blue eyes. After our first steps in the south and watching him make his way into the (then) head-high grass without looking back even once, we knew it was right. We knew that we all belonged here. From the beginning Connor had a curiosity about the world around him and an affinity for how things work. This didn’t go away as he got older, it simply changed. Watching him grow into a toddler with sand between his toes, a gemsbok in front of him and surrounded by fellow desert dwellers who loved him, was the kind of privilege we take for granted while it is happening. I still believe that the red sand…

Living wild in the land of Sand and Freedom: Three become four

RMB RIDE FOR RHINOS

It’s an underappreciated job. Living out in the veld on only basic rations for weeks at a time. Covering considerable distances on foot over rocky mountains and sandy riverbeds. Exposed to the searing Damaraland heat in summer with little or no protection from the scorching sun. All in the name of monitoring and protecting the last free-roaming black rhino population left on our planet. The RMB Ride for Rhinos is an annual cycling event aimed at creating awareness of the tireless yet determined combined patrols done by Save the Rhino (SRT) trackers, rhino rangers (members of the local communities) and members of the Namibian Police. The event not only gives riders a tiny taste of the hardships endured by these individuals but it is also a means of raising funds…

RMB RIDE FOR RHINOS

Writing this article I cannot wait to mention their sheer numbers. I counted them and when I came to one million I got a little tired and time was running out, so unfortunately we will have to go again next year. The second fact, which might be slightly more accurate than the first, is that Queleas seem to be the most abundant bird species on earth, and we were lucky enough to see all of them in one morning at Goas waterhole. Apparently there are more than 1.5 billion Queleas in the world, take or leave a few thousand. The bad news is that over a million birds are killed annually, mainly by pesticides in control operations. The other main cause of deaths is food shortage. The fact that pesticides…

AN ESCAPE TO YOUR OWN PRIVATE WILDERNESS at Etosha Heights with Natural Selection

Fifteen minutes into the drive the first rays of the sun cast a coppery light over the world and leave the entire area in a warm orange glow. We pass some red hartebeest, waterbuck, plains zebra and even a pair of Kori Bustards, Africa’s heaviest flying bird. The two-way radio remains silent, which means the other guide vehicles haven’t seen anything noteworthy either, and so the tension builds. The morning carries too much promise not to deliver and one can almost feel it brewing in the air. As if preplanned, a pride of 12 lions make their appearance together with the rising sun. The big cats leisurely walk parallel to the jeep track and seem to pay little attention to us. Grevin informs the other guides of our location while simultaneously…

AN ESCAPE TO YOUR OWN PRIVATE WILDERNESS at Etosha Heights with Natural Selection

BLUE WILDEBEEST

Territorial blue wildebeest bulls can be spotted at several waterholes in Etosha National Park. Establishing their territory around these important drinking places is like hitting the jackpot for these bulls because the females have to come to the water at least once a day. This is the opportunity to mate with many females, but it is equally exhausting to keep all the rivals at bay. For intruding bulls this is also a problem because they will be chased away by the “owner” of the territory. The mating season of blue wildebeest, also known as brindled gnu, lasts for about three weeks and coincides with the end of the rainy season. The mating season or rut begins on the night of the full moon, suggesting that the lunar cycle might influence breeding.…

BLUE WILDEBEEST

Embracing the wild side of the Erongo

It is no coincidence that this small paradise is known as Okapekaha by the Herero people, which means “where the water does not dry up.” The Herero, however, were not the first to discover the lifesustaining potential of the Klippdachs Mountains, as the northeastern foothills of the Erongo are called. Centuries earlier, the San inhabited the area and left behind fine rock art sites. The most prominent and interesting one, from an archaeological perspective, is Paula Cave. The site was proclaimed a national monument in 1951 on the recommendation of German archaeologist Dr Ernst-Rudolf Scherz. What makes the rock art exceptional is described by renowned palaeontologist Henri Breuil as “large, red-haired humans with relatively long bodies, several animals, amongst them elephant and rhinoceros. Further behind them is a group of red-haired…

Embracing the wild side of the Erongo

Three adventures to embark on in the ZAMBEZI REGION

If you are in search of adventure, the wet and wonderful Zambezi region is destined to shake your soul, get your adrenaline pumping and make for unforgettable memories. And despite being less popular than destinations like Etosha and Sossusvlei, the tourist accommodation and activities here are comfortably on par with both the aforementioned. While game drives dominate inland activities, the Zambezi allows for another avenue of adventure – exploring the area via the water ways. The mighty rivers that run the region’s borders (Zambezi, Chobe and Kwando Rivers) are the nucleus of life around here, for both animals, locals and adventure-seeking visitors. NUMBER ONE: FISHING, NATURALLY, AND NAVIGATING THE WATERS Everything up here revolves around the rivers. The local diet consists of equal parts free-roaming beef, chicken and fresh fresh caught daily.…

Three adventures to embark on in the ZAMBEZI REGION

On Photography.

Photography, when in Namibia, is of utmost importance. After all you need to capture the beauty of this picturesque country, be it with your cell phone or your camera with a 2000 mm lens. There are many wild and wonderful things in Namibia, so you should be fully prepared to have lots of space on your memory card, and your co-passengers should also have a full memory card of patience. You can repeat and relive so much of your trip when going through your photographs back home, but please refrain from boring your best friends with a slide show, keep it for your not so best friends/enemies. Without going into too much detail, you unfortunately will need some sort of equipment, in this case a camera or cell phone (not a…

On Photography.

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