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29 Articles

Texas Highways is thrilled to announce the release of managing editor Erin Quinn-Kong’s debut novel, Hate Follow. The story centers on an Austin-based social media influencer who struggles to balance her family and career after her husband’s death, eventually fighting a privacy lawsuit filed by her daughter. Quinn-Kong got the idea for the book from following influencers during the pandemic. “I started thinking about all the revealing things parents were posting online about their children and started pondering the question: Whose story are parents allowed to tell?” she says. The book, published by William Morrow, goes on sale Oct. 8. FEATURED CONTRIBUTORS AMY MCCARTHY The Dallas-based writer revisited her favorite burgers and traveled around the state tasting new ones for “Burgers Worth Traveling For” (Page 50). “I don’t think I could ever really…

Library Goals Hidden away in a gated, 35-acre estate in Houston, the Lanier Theological Library offers the public an escape from city life. Built to resemble the grounds at Oxford University in England, it contains over 105,000 volumes and resources. It also boasts notable and museum-worthy artifacts and exhibits, such as the largest C.S. Lewis collection in the United States, with first-edition books and handwritten letters, and two King James Bibles from the 1600s. Dancing Queen No Texan should get left behind on the dance floor. We asked Austin-based dance instructor Beth Coffey for step-by-step instructions on how to master the Texas two-step. The dance evolved from the collegiate foxtrot and became popular in the early 20th century. “Texas dances go back to all of those family traditions and different countries we came…

A Job Well Done

GROWING UP IN THE SUBURBS of Houston, features editor Chris Hughes found an ideal classroom for his eventual career in food journalism in the city’s diverse dining scene. He was introduced early on to dishes like banh mi and Vietnamese spring rolls by his classmates, and in high school, he’d sneak out and eat tortas and tacos at a nearby taquería. On weekends, he and his friends often drove to the original Ragin’ Cajun or the Montrose area to soak up Houston culture. After attending the University of Texas, Hughes did a brief stint at Random House in New York before hightailing it back to Texas after realizing the city wasn’t for him. He eventually broke into food journalism, writing and working for publications including the Boston Globe, Coastal Living, Food…

A Job Well Done

READER FEEDBACK Valley Recs I just read [Rubén Degollado’s] piece on botanas [“Party Platter,” September]. It gave me the itch to return to the Valley. I had my first botana at La Casa del Taco recently on a trip to get measured for custom boots. Had an excellent breakfast at Moonlight Cafe. DERRICK G. JETER, VIA X Good Reads I never would have thought it when I first subscribed, but my favorite part of Texas Highways has become the Open Road feature. Where do you find these wonderful writers? Fowzia Karimi’s article [“A Cosmic Alignment,” July/August] is a superb example of the thought-provoking, compelling, often gorgeous prose that one finds more often in literary magazines. Please keep these works coming! WILLIAM CARLSON, AUSTIN Touchdown As a Permian graduate and third generation Odessan, I want to thank you for…

The trees of northeast Texas begin their annual transformation this month, shedding chlorophyll until they arrive at shades of burgundy, rust, and marigold. Sweetgum, red oak, and maple—deciduous trees that are usually upstaged by the region’s dense pine forests—create a patchwork of color stitched between the stalwart evergreens. At Daingerfield State Park, an hour northeast of Tyler, you can see the show from a hilltop or forest meadow. Little Pine Lake is the best place for loitering in the leaf litter, hiking on shaded paths, or canoeing over glassy water that carries the trees’ gold and red reflections. See it all from the summit of Mountain View Trail (1.2 miles), the highest point in the park. To the west, Lake Bob Sandlin State Park’s sweetgum and hickories vie for the…

FUN RUN Register to run or walk through the holiday displays in Austin’s Trail of Lights 2-mile fun run on Dec. 7. austintrailoflights.org RV GETAWAYS It’s time for Winter Texans to book sites in the most popular cold-weather RV spots: the Hill Country and the Gulf Coast. TURKEY TIME Order a Greenberg smoked turkey from their Tyler shop this month to ensure delivery by Thanksgiving. gobblegobble.com RENAISSANCE Prepare your costume and book tickets for the Texas Renaissance Festival in Todd Mission, held Oct. 12-Dec. 1. texrenfest.com…

Haunted Happenings

HAUNTED HARBOR Hop aboard Galveston Historical Foundation’s Seagull II ship to hear the coastal town’s haunted history on select October weekends. galvestonhistory.org STOCKYARDS Visit historic buildings in Fort Worth’s Stockyards district for haunting tales throughout the year. cowtownwinery.com SAN ANTONIO For a tour of ghostly oddities in the Alamo City, try Sisters Grimm bus or walking ghost tours offered year-round. sistersgrimmghosttour.com EL PASO Explore the city’s historic structures like the Gateway Hotel and hear tales of the spirit realm on ghost tours that take place every Friday. elpasoghosttours.com GRANBURY Ghosts and legends come to life at these kid-friendly tours, held twice a night on Fridays and Saturdays year-round. granburytours.com…

Haunted Happenings

MODELED AFTER AMARILLO’S ICONIC Cadillac Ranch, Slug Bug Ranch showcases Volkswagen Beetles spray painted and buried nose-down at a 45-degree angle. Ricky Crutchfield built the installation in Conway in the 1990s. This year, the Lee family, owners of The Big Texan Steak Ranch, purchased and moved the bugs to Starlight Ranch on Interstate 40 in Amarillo. “It was a pretty unique place, but it never got a lot of traction,” Patrick Lee says of the original location. “We want to keep the thing going.” Anyone who comes to see the bugs will also get a glimpse of the buried Big Texan shuttles, limousines with horns mounted to the hood that once shuttled diners to and from the restaurant. SLUG BUG RANCH 1415 Sunrise Drive, Amarillo. bigtexan.com/slugbugranch…

ENJOY THE CLIMB

FROM THE RUGGED mountains of West Texas to the mystical canyons of the Panhandle, Texas is home to some of the most spectacular hiking in the Southwest. The best part: You don’t have to rough it in a tent. There are many fine cabins, hotels, and inns to return to after a long day on the trail. At 120 miles long and 20 miles wide, Palo Duro Canyon is visible from space, but the vast plains around Amarillo conceal it so well that the dramatic red rock formation almost sneaks up on visitors. The canyon cuts a gorgeous swath through the Panhandle, and the 28,000-acre Palo Duro Canyon State Park protects the northwest corner of the canyon. That’s where hikers can find the headwaters of the Prairie Dog Town fork of…

ENJOY THE CLIMB

EAT YOUR HEART OUT

“NEVER AGAIN.” At the onset of the COVID pandemic, that’s how one Tripadvisor user described the declining dining experience at Grand Central Café—the former restaurant inside the home of the cannibal family in The Texas Chain Saw Massacre. Incredibly, the set of the 1974 cult classic was converted into a fine dining establishment in 1998. The place had a nice run on the grounds of the Antlers Inn in Kingsland, where the Victorian cottage from the movie was relocated from Round Rock, but death becomes us all. Enter Austin restaurateur Simon Madera, whose track record includes revitalizing the popular Central Texas chain Taco Flats. He purchased Grand Central in November 2022. “I’m no horror movie buff,” Madera admits. “We leaned into the marketability, and I love doing nostalgic projects.” In the spring…

EAT YOUR HEART OUT

SYMPATHY FOR THE DEVIL

IN HIS BRAM STOKER Awar-dnominated debut The Spite House, Johnny Compton deftly reimagined the haunted house novel, turning the usual preconceived notions on their head. His sophomore effort, Devils Kill Devils, again subverts reader expectations, deviating far from standard vampire tropes. Sarita, the novel’s protagonist, has been guarded by what she believes to be an angel since childhood. Named Angelo by her family, the hulking figure repeatedly appeared over the years to save her in life-threatening moments. But in a harrowing first chapter, Angelo savagely upends his ward’s life, sending Sarita searching for answers. The notion of a possibly evil protector came to Compton during a previous project. “I was writing a different story in which a character commented about having a ‘guardian devil’ instead of a guardian angel,” he says. “Then…

SYMPATHY FOR THE DEVIL

Ghost towns have abandoned landmarks that linger and remind us of a once-bustling past. Some communities disappear entirely, leaving only graveyards and the truth of local history buried in them. Such is the case with Baby Head in Llano County, a pioneer town formed in the mid-1800s. Legend claims a local tribe kidnapped a child and placed her head on a spike at the foot of a nearby mountain, where a town later grew and adopted the macabre moniker. But the real answer is likely geographical. Located near a creek with two heads, or water sources, the smaller “baby head” ran adjacent to the former town. Regardless of the origins, the myth thrives in the imagination of visitors who leave spooky dolls throughout the cemetery, which is still in use.…

OUTER AGGIELAND

FOR YEARS I operated under the assumption that Bryan was just an extension of College Station, more or less dependent on its neighbor to the south—and Texas A&M University—for its identity. I had figured that of the two cities, College Station was the one with something to offer in the way of delicious dishes, trendy drinks, and exciting entertainment. After all, it’s a college town. But I’m happy, and humbled, to report that I was absolutely, unequivocally wrong. Yes, Bryan is proudly part of Greater Aggieland, but no, it doesn’t exist in the shadow of the university. The town, founded in 1871, five years before A&M was established, has a distinctive personality and history. The 90,000-person city is home to more than its fair share of fantastic restaurants, bars, entertainment,…

OUTER AGGIELAND

TOASTING WITH ‘PARISITES’

“WHAT DO YOU remember about our trip to Paris?” I ask Sonia, my wife, as I admire the passing blue, purple, pink, and yellow wildflowers on State Highway 101. We went to France in the fall of 2008 just before I proposed. It was a long weekend of delicious meals and no set plans. She chose a purple scarf when I took her shopping. I bought a baguette to bring back to our hotel room, where she was sleeping off jet lag. She mentions none of this. “You were tense,” Sonia says. That’s right, I remember, I did feel tense. The spontaneous trip to Paris was compensation for insecurities I couldn’t begin to articulate, much less address, back then. I imagined going to Paris for a few days would make the prospect of…

TOASTING WITH ‘PARISITES’

HIGHWAY RAMBLER

ASAKID, author and TV producer Attica Locke spent so much time on the road between her hometown of Houston and the East Texas communities where her relatives lived that she later started writing novels centered around US 59. The first in the award-winning Highway 59 series, Bluebird, Bluebird (2017), introduced readers to her complex, multilayered protagonist, Darren Matthews, a Black Texas Ranger who’s investigating a murder on the bayou. It’s currently in development with Universal for television, while the third and final installment in the series, Guide Me Home, was published in September. It finds Matthews coming out of retirement to investigate the disappearance of a college student. US 59, of course, plays a major role. “There was a period of time during my childhood where every other weekend I was…

HIGHWAY RAMBLER

ONE DAY IN 1968, Jan Knox hooked herself to a rope alongside her husband, Orion Knox, and descended into a dark hole in the ground on the Wuest family ranch in Comal County. A hand-cranked winch operated by the cave owners lowered her down 160 feet through a shaft just 22 inches wide, the rock strata passing close before her face. As her boots hit the slick bottom, the darkness dissipated in the warm glow of her carbide headlamp. In front of her stood cathedral-like pillars and arches of flowstone, colored crystal and delicate formations, and the faint echoing drip of water. It was the first time a human had witnessed the magnificent formation, and the couple was there to map it. Today, this cave is part of the Hidden Wonders…

PRESERVE AND RESPECT

DESPITE NEVER STEPPING foot in Columbus, Missy Parker moved there for a porch. “I was looking at old homes online and this one struck me,” she says of her 1895 Greek Revival-style home with a wraparound porch. “I bought it sight unseen.” Parker, who was nearing retirement from her career in pharmaceuticals, packed her bags and moved in 2021 from her longtime home of Colleyville to start a new life in the town of 3,700 residents 70 miles west of Houston. As she settled in, she discovered not only a welcoming community but also a new purpose in life: saving the town’s historic 1886 Stafford Opera House. “It may be an overused term, but it is a crown jewel—not only in this town and county but in this region,” she says. In…

PRESERVE AND RESPECT

THE HARD, GOOD WAY

PEOPLE WHO HAVE KNOWN ME for a long time might raise an eyebrow to hear that I’m on a spiritual journey. But even in my most egocentric moments, I’ve always known I am not the biggest thing in the universe. Three years ago, I had an opportunity to plug into life in an unexpected and blessed way. Through the generosity of the Comanche, I learned about peyotism, the faith that has arguably been practiced in Texas longer than any other. In the years since, I have participated in all-night meetings conducted by one of the Comanche chapters of the Native American Church, a religious organization that uses peyote as a complex, powerful sacrament. More than 300,000 Native people are members, with chapters spread across the U.S. and Canada. Let me be…

THE HARD, GOOD WAY

Burgers WORTH the DRIVE

THESE 50 EXCEPTIONAL DESTINATIONS WILL MAKE YOU WANT TO EAT YOUR WAY ACROSS THE STATE. NORTH Texas HURTADO BARBECUE ARLINGTON The Big Mike burger at Hurtado Barbecue’s three North Texas locations is a mouthful. Two quarter-pound smoked ground brisket patties mingle with American cheese, garlic-habanero pickles, bibb lettuce, tomato, and sliced red onion. The massive offering also has personal significance for chef-owner Brandon Hurtado, who named it after his best friend’s dad, who passed away from cancer at age 59. To honor Big Mike’s legacy, and his love for the Hurtado burger, a dollar from each sale is donated to the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society. hurtadobbq.com ADAIR’S SALOON DALLAS According to bar legend, the colossal half-pound cheeseburgers at this Deep Ellum dive were the brainchild of co-founder Ann Adair, who created the hulking patties to satisfy the…

Burgers WORTH the DRIVE

Burger GLOSSARY

TEX-MEX BURGER Typically found at mom and pop Tex-Mex joints, these burgers often use two different seasoning blends, such as Montreal steak seasoning or lemon pepper. Expect interesting add-on options like tamales and cheese enchiladas as well as buns toasted on both sides like a torta. BBQ Burger A signature offering of resourceful pitmasters, these burgers were initially made from brisket trim—though some chefs have now branched out with different cuts. The patties are typically smoked for up to two hours before getting a final sear on the flattop. In just a few short years, these burgers have become as much of a menu mainstay as pinto beans and potato salad. Texas Old-Fashioned Whether thick or thin, these burgers are always cooked on a well-seasoned flattop at institutions dating back several decades. “Simple and uncomplicated…

Burger GLOSSARY

Meat YOUR MAKER

ATHENS, GREECE, is the birthplace of Western civilization, and Athens, Texas, is the cradle of culinary burgerdom. That’s how the story goes, anyway. What is certain about the genesis of the “hamburger sandwich,” as it was first called, is that it began appearing at county fairs and mobile lunch carts between 1885 and 1904. But cooks from Canton, Ohio; Seymour, Wisconsin; New Haven, Connecticut; and Hamburg, Germany have all laid claim to its invention. The true father of the hamburger is so contested that a slew of journalists have fact-checked and poked holes in their peers’ work in attempts to lay claim to the truth. Frank X. Tolbert at The Dallas Morning News deduced in a 1983 column that Fletcher Davis, who allegedly served ground beef on Texas toast at a café in…

Meat YOUR MAKER

REESE BROS. BARBECUE SAN ANTONIO Maybe the only dish that can come close to rivaling the puffy taco in San Antonio’s culinary history is the bean burger. Created in 1952 by Felix Stehling—best known as the founder of the Taco Cabana chain—the dish was first introduced at Sill’s Snack Shack on Austin Highway. Leasing the space from owner Frank Sills, Stehling possessed the ingenuity to pair a burger patty with refried beans, Fritos, and a new processed cheese phenomenon called Cheez Whiz. That stroke of genius has birthed a number of variations across the Alamo City over the ensuing decades, including at places like Chris Madrid’s and EZ’s Brick Oven & Grill, where pitmaster Nick Reese was introduced to the concept back in the ’90s. Since opening Reese Bros. Barbecue with his sibling…

CERTAIN UNCERTAIN

SOME PEOPLE are too frightened to go in, I am told. Others who have gone in to stay the night in a tent or cabin have found themselves suddenly, for no clear reason, completely overcome with fear. One lone camper said he heard a heavy, two-footed creature walking around his tent in the night and in the morning found his cooler raided. Some swear they have seen the monster on one of the lake’s numerous small islands. Others say the creature is in the water and is 20 feet long. A lost manatee, people have conjectured. Whatever the truth is, Caddo Lake is a place of stories and rumors, of half-truths, of whispered sayings, of unlikely happenings between, generally, visiting city people and nature. Ghosts, folklore, myths, history, and imagination are…

CERTAIN UNCERTAIN

THE FEARLESS COWGIRLS OF MEXICAN RODEO

IMAGINE RIDING A horse through an arena. The sun hits your back as you guide the thousand-pound animal in a synchronized pattern with seven other riders. Gallop in a perfect circle. Stop. Spin in place. Then, weave through a line of sprinting horses at just the right speed, careful not to ram into one. Now, imagine doing all of this sidesaddle. In a 15-pound dress. Such is the challenge for the athletes who compete in escaramuza charra, the only women’s equestrian event in charrería, the national sport of Mexico akin to rodeo. During the event, eight women perform a routine of highly skilled maneuvers on horseback with military-like precision. They wear matching sombreros and layered dresses that have wide, ruffled skirts often embroidered with flowers. It’s a sight to behold—but don’t let…

THE FEARLESS COWGIRLS OF MEXICAN RODEO

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BEHIND THE ISSUE Curated highlights and a look at the making of our latest print issue. Delivered to your inbox on the day the magazine hits newsstands. SCENIC ROUTE From places to stay to roadside oddities, a monthly roundup of stories that will provide inspiration for your next Texas adventure. EVENTS CALENDAR Hand-picked selections from the Texas Highways Events Calendar. We choose a variety of events from around the state, so you can find things close to home or plan your next getaway. By providing my email, I agree to receive communications from Texas Highways magazine. I understand that I will receive the email offerings I select as well as occasional offers from Texas Highways partners and deals on Texas Highways subscriptions. I understand that I can unsubscribe or choose to receive less email at any time. Scan this…

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HUDDLED IN A rural Georgetown field, a handful of roaming gastronomes are attempting to warm themselves over two sealed brick firepits arranged in a custom-built trailer. Despite their ability to battle the elements this chilly April morning, it’s what’s inside those 3,000-pound hornos, or ovens, that has turned El Grandpa Mexican BBQ into a viral social media sensation. Opened in the summer of 2023 by Javier Vargas and his son, Emilio, their destination for barbacoa de borrego has started to draw the kinds of lines normally reserved for pitmaster royalty like Aaron Franklin of Franklin Barbecue in Austin. That’s because, unlike most barbacoa sold at restaurants—typically made by steaming or roasting beef cheek and tongue—El Grandpa is the rare establishment implementing the traditional Mexican method of all-night pit cooking. Covered with…

HIGH ON THE HOG

WILD HOGS ARE a menace, especially in Texas, which is home to 2.6 million of them—about 38% of the total U.S. population. These large, hooved creatures have terrorized suburbs and small towns in increasing numbers since the 1980s, but they are a particular problem for farmers. Feral pigs roam in packs, rooting through fields and trampling everything in their path. What cash crops they don’t dig up, they eat, causing an estimated $118.8 million in agricultural loss every year in the state. Like insatiable bullies, they go wherever they please, leaving a trail of destruction and piglets in their wake. Luckily, they are also quite tasty, and hunting them is an effective way to thin the roving hordes. Until recently, your best bet for sourcing wild boar meat was to hunt…

HIGH ON THE HOG

BIG BEND COUNTRY ALPINE Big Bend Bluegrass Festival Oct. 4-5 Along with a lineup that includes Special Consensus, the Edgar Loudermilk Band, the Finley River Boys, and Hillbilly Fever Bluegrass Band, there are food vendors, workshops, and jam sessions. Alpine Civic Center, 801 W. Holland Ave. 432-238-6850; bigbendbluegrass.com IMPERIAL Horsehead Crossing Living History Event Oct. 25-26 Taking place at the historic site that inspired Lonesome Dove, this event features chuckwagon grub, cooking demonstrations, gunfights, trail rides, and live cannon fire. Horsehead Crossing on the Pecos River, State Highway 11 at Horsehead Road. 432-302-1106; pecoscountyhistoricalcommission.org MARATHON Marathon 2 Marathon Oct. 26 The biggest event this small town hosts, M2M is a Boston Marathon qualifier and a net downhill race. There’s also a half marathon, 10K, and 5K. All races have starts on US 385 and routes along the highway. 432-386-4366; marathon2marathon.com MIDLAND Día de los…

EIGHTY YEARS BEFORE the State Fair of Texas offered such deviant delicacies as the Funnel Cake Bacon Queso Burger and the Cotton Candy Taco, there was the humble corny dog. Born of batter and sizzling oil in the shadow of Big Tex in October 1942, this amalgam of cornbread and weenie signaled the start of a deep-fried dynasty. The concoction was created by the Fletcher brothers, Neil Sr. and Carl, vaudeville players who spent 12 years perfecting a secret recipe until their corny dogs became quintessential fare for fairgoers. Texas Highways photo editor Bill Reaves captured this image in 1987, when the brothers’ business had expanded to include 52 locations in Texas and neighboring states. It shows regular patron Fred Schultz slathering mustard on a corny dog at Fletcher’s Drive…

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