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25 Articles

A Time For Sharing

IN THE best of times, and in the worst, we can always rely on the power of a good meal. There’s no doubt that 2019 has been a challenging year for Hong Kong and that’s why, for the 2020 edition of T.Dining, we ran with the theme ‘United We Dine’—an issue dedicated to celebrating the connections between people and food. Our small team has long been committed to bringing the best of gastronomy together on the pages of this magazine, through daily content on our website, and through our now-regular series of events designed to create genuinely meaningful experiences for our community of food lovers. Over the years, this ambition has never wavered—we’ve long believed in championing the hard work of the hospitality industry, and creating opportunities for meaningful exchange. There…

A Time For Sharing

Chris Dwyer Chris Dwyer is a freelance food and travel writer for platforms including CNN.com, BBC Travel, South China Morning Post, inflight magazines and luxury lifestyle titles. The cultural resonance of quality produce is a particular passion and he has reported on jamón ibérico in southern Spain, caviar in China, pufferfish in Japan, oysters in England, and wagyu in Australia. He has also interviewed culinary giants including Alain Ducasse, Elena Arzak, Anthony Bourdain, Daniel Humm and Dominique Crenn. Joanne Liu With over a decade in the food industry, Joanne trained as a professional chef in New York City before transitioning to food research and recipe testing for names including Jeffrey Steingarten and The Food Network. For the past six years in Hong Kong, she has been specialising in F&B communications and consulting having…

Since 2013, T.Dining has hosted the annual Best Restaurants Awards to celebrate the achievements of the hospitality industry in Hong Kong and Macau. A natural extension of the Best Restaurants guide, published since 1984, the awards have become the event of the year attracting hundreds of leading chefs, mixologists and F&B professionals from the region. MORE THAN 600 guests from across the world of F&B arrived at the Hong Kong Ocean Park Marriott Hotel on November 19, 2018 to toast to the achievements of their peers. It was the sixth annual T.Dining Best Restaurants Awards, a firm fixture on the culinary scene and our flagship event that aims to spotlight and champion the hard work done in the hospitality business over the past year. From unveiling the year’s Top 20 Best…

Le Peak, C’est Chic!

HONG KONG DESTINATIONS don’t come much more iconic than Victoria Peak – and now, thanks to the recently reopened Peak Galleria, there are plenty of great new restaurants delivering food that’s every bit as spectacular as those majestic skyline views. It’s great news if you’re a keen hiker, too, as it’s perfect for enjoying breakfast or lunch after a stroll with friends, family or your pets. Designed to make the most of its magnificent location, the renovated Peak Galleria features a striking curved gem-like entrance – an ultra-modern, all-glass façade that allows an abundance of natural light to stream inside, meaning visitors can bask in the changing seasons and natural surroundings. In addition to its much-loved rooftop, which boasts glorious panoramic views across the city, Peak Galleria is now home to…

Le Peak, C’est Chic!

Culinary Renegades

TO SAY that the face of fine dining has changed over the last decade is to state the obvious, but to presume that it has merely shed its once-stuffy disposition for a more informal invitation to wine and dine would be a greater understatement. The concept of haute cuisine continues to evolve in embracing a wider, more progressive gamut of gourmet experiences, making room for a new generation of culinary cowboys and providing a refreshing shift away from the mainstream. This is especially evident in Asia’s culinary capitals, from the sunny island-state of Singapore to the bustling gastronomic plains of Tokyo. However, don’t think these are just revised invitations to lick your plate or listen to ocean sounds during your seafood course. If anything, while a maturing market of food lovers…

Culinary Renegades

What’s The New Luxury?

FRENCH INTERDISCIPLINARY social scientist Claude Fischler once said: “The way any given human eats helps to assert its diversity and hierarchy… and at the same time, both its oneness and otherness of whoever eats differently.” Such is the unspoken rule of every gourmand and foodie clocking in at the restaurant du jour and then posting it on social media. Despite world economic and sociopolitical upheaval, consumer trends in matters of the palate, especially with regards to luxury food, don’t seem to be decreasing. In essence, the 1% will continue to order their oysters and champagne (and let themselves eat cake), while the 99% will try to keep up with the Joneses with reposts on Instagram. Established European luxury ingredient icons such as caviar, foie gras and truffles will indomitably hold their share.…

What’s The New Luxury?

ESCAPE TO HONG KONG

HAVING SPENT my life equally divided between Taipei, Vancouver, New York, Beijing then Hong Kong, I have come to realise that the foods we eat nowadays, no matter where we are, are all in one form or another, fusion. How tomatoes were introduced to Italy; how chillies came to define Sichuan cuisines; how the world standard for pho bo isn't defined by what is in Vietnam but North America; how milk tea became a synonym for Hong Kong tea houses. The way we cook, present, and even eat our foods, is the history of human migration on a plate. Whether anybody likes it or not, it is, and always will be, an ever-evolving progression. I experienced my first encounter with Cantonese cuisines at 11 years old when my family moved from…

ESCAPE TO HONG KONG

United We Dine: The Family Meal

7:00PM. It’s dinner time. A team of chefs hover over their stainless-steel counters inside the semi-open kitchen, where guests enjoy a full view of the processes by which their dishes are made. Chefs prep, cook, sauce and plate and, along the pass, dish out their creations for all to savour. Turning back the clock a couple hours, however, at 4:59pm, the same team of chefs were dividing up their off-hour duties—washing up, preparing the mise en place, getting dinner service ready. The next minute, the alarm clock rang; everyone dropped their utensils and immediately left the kitchen. They formed a beeline and grabbed a plate one by one as they explored today’s “family dinner”. It’s certainly an understatement—staff meals are very important. Through these communal gatherings, chefs come together to…

United We Dine: The Family Meal

Trip to Tuscany

Walking the sun dappled paths through this 12th century hamlet, taking in the sway of the apricot trees and discovering the incredible artworks dispersed throughout the historic property, is an experience that is only seconded by discovering the precious wines of this tiny powerhouse of a producer. Welcome to Castello di Ama, one of Tuscany’s most acclaimed winery hotels. BEST KNOWN for its luxurious approach to hospitality that combines the twin passions of second generation owner Lorenza Sebasti, the property is as synonymous with forward-thinking art as much as it is respected for its quality Italian wines. As the second generation owner of the winery, Sebasti runs a tight ship that is not without lashings of that inimitable Italian sprezzatura; on the drive into the property, you’re met with the tumbling…

Trip to Tuscany

The Future Wine

AS SOMEONE who earns her keep by knowing things about wine, I’m often asked to prognosticate about its future. Initially thinking the assignment was “wine in 2030,” I picked a few current trends and tried to determine a reasonable progress level for a decade. However, realising it was actually 3020, 1000 years in the future, I decided all bets were off since I probably wouldn’t be around to see whether I nailed it or not. A lot can happen in a millennium, with moves both forward and, occasionally, backward (witness the current popularity of amphora wine, a technology celebrating its 8000th birthday), but thus far, happily, nothing has quite managed to snuff out the great love that binds human and fermented grape. Long may that millennia-spanning hook-up last! MODERN PRIMITIVES The vineyard, like…

The Future Wine

A gentle Englishman Simon Rogan may be, but he is a culinary powerhouse, having built an empire of truly exceptional restaurants that have managed to stay true to his philosophy of quality farm produce imagined in thrilling new ways. Far from his original flagship restaurant in Britain’s picturesque Lake District, L’Enclume, Roganic (and its development kitchen, Aulis) may have seemed out of place in Hong Kong—a city that relies heavily on imported produce, and where local agriculture lacks real support. It didn’t faze the chef, and we’re glad for it—Roganic was by far the most favoured new restaurant among our panelists, who highlighted the comfortable and convivial atmosphere, unfussy dishes and incredible clarity of flavour found in dishes such as local chicken with leek and turnip, or the homemade soda…

One of the more dismissive expat tropes is to refer to Kowloon as “the dark side”, and it is without a trace of irony that The Rosewood has chosen the moniker for their flagship bar—a tongue-in-cheek reference that at once dismisses the notion that going across the harbour is a chore, and gives local drinkers a bit of a laugh. On the serious side, the drinks are on the money—elegant, expertly balanced and with just the right amount of quirkiness to keep things interesting. The signature menu includes libations such as The Yamen (Pierre Ferrand cognac, wax, raw honey, bee pollen, osmanthus and frankincense) while on the classics side, they stir up a mean Hemingway daiquiri or a 1930s Vieux Carre cocktail.…

Richard Ekkebus

Over the period when Amber at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental closed for refurbishment, Ekkebus was not one to put up his feet and take a long vacation. In the lead-up to the restaurant’s reopening, the Dutch chef did more than a little soul-searching, taking his team around the region to upgrade their culinary knowledge, and set up a test kitchen in Sai Ying Pun to further put their gastronomic hypotheses under rigorous testing. The result has been an extraordinary comeback for the restaurant. With a bold new dogma—one that eschews most dairy and gluten in the kitchen—that has challenged the team as well as loyal customers, Ekkebus has made a statement about what fine dining could be in this new era. Let’s not forget also the steps he has made…

Richard Ekkebus

Roganic might be a newcomer on Hong Kong’s dining scene – but from the easy assurance of their service, you’d assume they’d been here for years. It’s no mean feat making great hospitality seem this effortless, especially with tasting menus this complex, but their team impress at every turn. Individual chefs come out to explain each dish, and their passion for quality ingredients shines through, especially when discussing Roganic’s focus on local seasonal produce – right down to showing you the Evogro cabinets that grow some of their greens in-house. All too often in Hong Kong, dishes get introduced as if they’ve been learnt by rote; at Roganic, it’s a conversation that can be as casual or in-depth as you like and frankly, it’s a breath of fresh air in…

Hong Kong-born Yuen joined the team at Nobu, InterContinental Hong Kong, in 2018, after serving as a pastry commis chef at The Ocean by Olivier Bellin and Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong—a far cry from her previous life working as an associate social strategist for a major advertising firm. A self-taught chef, she also founded her own designer wedding cake company, The Secret Within, which allowed her to flourish in the art of intricate pastry designs and visual storytelling. Yuen’s tireless work ethic and creative spark has continuously wowed our panelists, with sweet creations such as her molten cheese tart with grape sorbet, or a tofu cheesecake with honey jelly and umeshu. Her flair for flavour and architecturally impressive desserts have made her one of the most impressive pastry artists…

As the world wakes up to the increasing impact meat-eating has on the environment, coupled with the current climate crisis, we appreciate the efforts of individuals such as David Yeung, who has used his platform Green Monday to further champion the need for sustainable living. Green Common, his brand of eco-grocery stores, has opened more venues this year, and Omnipork is growing traction as it launched in markets such as Taiwan and Thailand in 2019—both projects touting the benefits of a lifestyle where we can all try to eat less meat. What’s more, Omnipork isn’t just a fad—by collaborating with local chefs, many from Chinese restaurants, the meat-free movement is making an impact without sacrificing that all-important flavour. RUNNER UP Heidi Spurrell is the CEO of the Hong Kong branch of Food…

Previously mentored by Richard Ekkebus at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Wong has gone out on a limb to translate her French culinary training to her love of Cantonese dishes. After a stint testing the waters at PMQ’s Taste Kitchen, where she caught our eye serving modern European dishes such as “Homage to Grandma’s Lobster”—a seafood course pairing the shellfish with bisque and fettucine—Wong eventually opened Roots in the Star Street precinct in Wan Chai in early 2019. Here, her Cantonese roots took greater precedence, with creations such as her updated prawn toast with pickled onions and salmon roe, and spicy local clams with black bean chive oil. The enthusiasm and passion for what she does has gotten her to where she is today, and we’re in no doubt that she’ll…

Entering into designer-architect André Fu’s vision of Louise at PMQ, you become part of a story that unravels seductively, layer by layer. The visual identity of the restaurant is rich with lush greenery tactile textures and eclectic artworks—mostly curated by art aficionado Alan Lo, Yenn’s husband—all working together to create the sense of a lived-in, glamorous boudoir—home of the fictional Louise, a character conceived by the team and named for Julien’s paternal grandmother, Jean-Louise. We appreciate the details that serve to differentiate the ground floor and upstairs dining room; the former is all terrazzo tables, terracotta flooring and a tropical mural surprising guests at the back, while the upstairs dining room is aglow with warm golden tones, painterly details and a dramatic open kitchen that evokes a theatre. What’s astounding…

10 years ago, Danny Yip had a simple mission: to open a MSG-free Chinese restaurant that could be popular and successful. A decade and a few fluctuating economies later, the tireless restaurateur has more than reached his goal, and continues his mission to share his passion for Cantonese cuisine. Through The Chairman, Yip connects with local fishermen who provide fresh catches daily, local farmers who raise good pork and chicken in the New Territories for him, and local brands who provide the restaurant with their decades-old preserves and condiments. Through these exceptional ingredients and the stories behind them, Yip reinvented Cantonese food by not only incorporating them into the cuisine, but developed a narrative that helps us understand how these products and techniques shaped a large part of our culinary…

MODERN EUROPEAN 1 Amber The Landmark Mandarin Oriental’s flagship restaurant, helmed by chef Richard Ekkebus, makes a solid return to this year’s list. After a nail-biting hiatus—during which time many a food pundit made their guesses as to how the newly reformed Amber would be different—the team unveiled a fresh new look and rejigged menu that arched a few eyebrows. Limiting and often eliminating the use of gluten and dairy in all of the dishes, Ekkebus sought to rewrite the rules of fine dining and has succeeded in creating a new kind of journey for Hong Kong’s jaded diners. We’re particularly impressed by the flavour profiles that pay sensitive tribute to local traditions, whether it’s the homemade silky tofu or the pairing of cold-brew teas with the tasting menu. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin…

EDITOR’S NOTE

Published since 1984, T.Dining’s Best Restaurants continues to be the go-to guide detailing the very best of Hong Kong and Macau’s dining scenes, with a comprehensive look at everything from from high end degustation restaurants to casual bistros and noodle bars—we believe that good food is not about the price tag. In this guide, you’ll find restaurants doing great things and contributing something unique to the world of gastronomy. We have also cherry picked 20 of the essential restaurants that you need to add to your dining itinerary for 2020 and beyond—these venues offer not only exceptional experiences but also represent the culinary zeitgeist as it stands right now. Look out for these tastemakers with the Top 20 badge. Don’t forget: T.Dining keeps its finger on the pulse over at hongkongtatler.com,…

Hong Kong Restaurants

CANTONESE Above & Beyond HK$1500 per person Against a floor-to-ceiling backdrop of Hong Kong’s skyline, Hotel Icon’s sleek top-floor restaurant offers finely executed Cantonese classics, many of which have been given modern makeovers. There are a number of set menus that offer good value, such as the Peking duck set dinner. The fowl is done Hong Kong-style, meaning that the meat is cut thicker than what’s traditionally served in Beijing. Whether you opt for prix fixe or à la carte, be sure to ask the knowledgeable sommeliers to recommend pairings from the wine list, which covers a wide range of countries, serving sizes and price points. Service, unfortunately, fails to go above and beyond. Staff seem eager when prompted, but are unable to answer questions about ingredients—even after checking with the kitchen—and tea…

Hong Kong Restaurants

Macau Restaurants

CANTONESE Canton MOP300 per person Presenting a new breed of Cantonese cuisine, Canton has steered to a new direction, polishing the classics of Guangdong province with new ideas, often by way of interpretation and execution through innovative takes on the restaurant’s signatures. Guests can settle in the modern, slightly Westernised dining room setting, where crystal chandeliers brighten up contrasting shades of black and red throughout the dining space. Indulge in classic such as roasted suckling pig served with traditional condiments or barbecued pork with honey sauce, while enjoying Canton’s new roasted pigeon stuffed with Chinese cured meat and glutinous rice; stir-fried wagyu M7 beef with fresh mushrooms and pickled chilli, and homely comforts such as stir-fried shrimps with scrambled egg. Shop 1018, Level 1, The Venetian Macao, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8118 9930 venetianmacao.com Golden…

Macau Restaurants

Hong Kong & Macau Bars

HONG KONG Darkside This bar is named for what some derogatorily call Kowloon, but it’s also for its focus on dark spirits. The impressive drinks list includes extensive whisky, cognac, rum and Port selections. There’s also an exclusive cognac made especially for Rosewood Hong Kong, as well as a barrel of Graham’s 1982, both of which nestle behind the chocolate bar, where a range of dark, sweet treats made in-house are served with the various spirits—or alongside cigars, which can be enjoyed on the bar’s outdoor terrace that overlooks the Hong Kong skyline. Here you have the view, but you’re out of earshot of the live jazz band, which takes the stage every evening beneath the turning hourglasses that decorate the ceiling of this atmospheric bar. 2/F, Rosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside, 18…

Hong Kong & Macau Bars

Established in 1984, Best Restaurants has been published annually as the ultimate guide to the most exciting places to eat in Hong Kong and Macau. In preparation for each edition, the editorial team personally visit every restaurant and bar to assess them according to a strict matrix rating quality across several categories—see below for further detail of how we rate. In addition, to ensure that our experience of each restaurant was as close to that of a regular diner, each venue was reviewed anonymously during the compilation of this guide. The final ratings are a result of the reviewers’ reports, plus the general experiences and recommendations of our expert editorial panel of food writers. THE RATINGS For a quick and easy reference to the overall dining experience at the restaurants listed in…

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