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22 Articles

MILANO+PARIS+NEW YORK+LONDON WOMEN COLLECTIONS S/S 2021

“The world has changed and we have changed.” The words of Donatella Versace are the latest of many statements that designers released at the start of the pandemic. After the full-blown crisis in the industry, after the letters and manifestoes expressing intentions to change course, make less and make better, every designer and their brands, has undoubtedly poured feelings and introspection into their latest collections. Some have celebrated the saving power of painting or gardening, some translated the many books they read into their clothes, some rediscovered domestic intimacy and being close to loved ones. Between shows streamed online, video performances, presentationstions on is heard and, yes, conventional catwalk shows, perhaps held in a wheat field, reflections on the post-lockdown world were varied but had some things in common: the…

MILANO+PARIS+NEW YORK+LONDON WOMEN COLLECTIONS S/S 2021

MILANO+PARIS+NEW YORK+LONDON WOMEN COLLECTIONS S/S 2021

“The world has changed and we have changed.” The words of Donatella Versace are the latest of many statements that designers released at the start of the pandemic. After the full-blown crisis in the industry, after the letters and manifestoes expressing intentions to change course, make less and make better, every designer and their brands, has undoubtedly poured feelings and introspection into their latest collections. Some have celebrated the saving power of painting or gardening, some translated the many books they read into their clothes, some rediscovered domestic intimacy and being close to loved ones. Between shows streamed online, video performances, presentationstions on is heard and, yes, conventional catwalk shows, perhaps held in a wheat field, reflections on the post-lockdown world were varied but had some things in common: the…

MILANO+PARIS+NEW YORK+LONDON WOMEN COLLECTIONS S/S 2021

The post-lockdown period seems to have given us a looser, more fluid and comfortable silhouette alongside a new-found naturalness, a spontaneity to show ourselves as we are. Natacha Ramsay-Levi for Chloé transforms this thinking into a kind of ‘studio subject’, defining new womenswear codes. Her analysis translates into a collection that has many elements of previous ones but is softer, less embellished and more focused on colour. Dresses are long tunics, shirts and slip dresses dotted with lace insets or decorated with light floral motifs. These alternated with loose tops and shirts held at the waist by wide belts and paired with airy skirts and wide trousers. Maria Grazia Chiuri puts it plainly: “We are living in a different way and staying more at home within our intimacy. Our clothes have to…

The post-lockdown period seems to have given us a looser, more fluid and comfortable silhouette alongside a new-found naturalness, a spontaneity to show ourselves as we are. Natacha Ramsay-Levi for Chloé transforms this thinking into a kind of ‘studio subject’, defining new womenswear codes. Her analysis translates into a collection that has many elements of previous ones but is softer, less embellished and more focused on colour. Dresses are long tunics, shirts and slip dresses dotted with lace insets or decorated with light floral motifs. These alternated with loose tops and shirts held at the waist by wide belts and paired with airy skirts and wide trousers. Maria Grazia Chiuri puts it plainly: “We are living in a different way and staying more at home within our intimacy. Our clothes…

We challenge you to find a designer who did not in some way draw inspiration from lockdown. It was inevitable. Each one used the time to look inward and think, for example, about their own idea of freedom at the very moment it was denied. Take Riccardo Tisci at Burberry, who brought his reflections on loneliness and thirst for freedom to the runway. Unsurprisingly, his chosen location was a slightly claustrophobic wood, to which he added an under-the-sea theme that transformed models into half-mermaids/half-fisherwomen (predator or prey?) complete with boots, surfaces trapped in nets, sou’westers and long trenches. At the Palais Royal Isabel Marant showed a club night for happier times, looking to the ’80s as a time of hedonism and freedom. The clothes were all about energy and comfort, easy pieces…

We challenge you to find a designer who did not in some way draw inspiration from lockdown. It was inevitable. Each one used the time to look inward and think, for example, about their own idea of freedom at the very moment it was denied. Take Riccardo Tisci at Burberry, who brought his reflections on loneliness and thirst for freedom to the runway. Unsurprisingly, his chosen location was a slightly claustrophobic wood, to which he added an under-the-sea theme that transformed models into half-mermaids/half-fisherwomen (predator or prey?) complete with boots, surfaces trapped in nets, sou’westers and long trenches. At the Palais Royal Isabel Marant showed a club night for happier times, looking to the ’80s as a time of hedonism and freedom. The clothes were all about energy and comfort,…

What else could come out of such a tough time if not a desire for romantic gentleness. A quality that Alberta Ferretti knows well and which she emphatically returned to with her latest collection, after moving away from it in recent seasons. According to the designer, it’s all about“the acceptance of the natural power of femininity”, which came across in fluid slip dresses and lace mini-dresses, alternated with ultra-short skirts and panties with visible bra, or high-necked but very pretty blouses. Blumarine has always been synonymous with romanticism, and newly-appointed creative director Nicola Brognano intends to pursue the same path, even emphasising this very aspect. Flounces, big cloth petals, floral prints, breezy fringes, Swarovski and pastel shades are the complements on mini-dresses and mini-skirts, micro-tops and ultra-low rise trousers – all worn…

What else could come out of such a tough time if not a desire for romantic gentleness. A quality that Alberta Ferretti knows well and which she emphatically returned to with her latest collection, after moving away from it in recent seasons. According to the designer, it’s all about“the acceptance of the natural power of femininity”, which came across in fluid slip dresses and lace mini-dresses, alternated with ultra-short skirts and panties with visible bra, or high-necked but very pretty blouses. Blumarine has always been synonymous with romanticism, and newly-appointed creative director Nicola Brognano intends to pursue the same path, even emphasising this very aspect. Flounces, big cloth petals, floral prints, breezy fringes, Swarovski and pastel shades are the complements on mini-dresses and mini-skirts, micro-tops and ultra-low rise trousers –…

MILANO+PARIS+NEW YORK+LONDON COLLEZIONI DONNA P/E 2021

“Il mondo è cambiato e noi siamo cambiati”. Le parole di Donatella Versace sono l’ultima delle tante dichiarazioni che i designer hanno rilasciato dallo scoppio della pandemia. Oltre alla conclamata crisi dell’industria, a lettere e manifesti con le migliori intenzioni di cambiare rotta e produrre meno ma meglio, ogni designer, con marchio a seguito, ha senza dubbio riversato nelle ultime collezioni parecchi sentimenti e introspezioni. C’è chi ha celebrato il potere salvifico della pittura e del giardinaggio, chi ha tradotto in visioni stilistiche i tanti libri letti, chi ha riscoperto l’intimità domestica e la vicinanza dei propri cari. Tra sfilate in digitale, video-performance, presentazioni e, sì, anche passerelle tradizionali, magari tra campi di grano, sono andate in scena riflessioni post-quarantena variamente sfaccettate ma con qualche punto in comune: il desiderio…

MILANO+PARIS+NEW YORK+LONDON COLLEZIONI DONNA P/E 2021

MILANO+PARIS+NEW YORK+LONDON COLLEZIONI DONNA P/E 2021

“Il mondo è cambiato e noi siamo cambiati”. Le parole di Donatella Versace sono l’ultima delle tante dichiarazioni che i designer hanno rilasciato dallo scoppio della pandemia. Oltre alla conclamata crisi dell’industria, a lettere e manifesti con le migliori intenzioni di cambiare rotta e produrre meno ma meglio, ogni designer, con marchio a seguito, ha senza dubbio riversato nelle ultime collezioni parecchi sentimenti e introspezioni. C’è chi ha celebrato il potere salvifico della pittura e del giardinaggio, chi ha tradotto in visioni stilistiche i tanti libri letti, chi ha riscoperto l’intimità domestica e la vicinanza dei propri cari. Tra sfilate in digitale, video-performance, presentazioni e, sì, anche passerelle tradizionali, magari tra campi di grano, sono andate in scena riflessioni post-quarantena variamente sfaccettate ma con qualche punto in comune: il desiderio…

MILANO+PARIS+NEW YORK+LONDON COLLEZIONI DONNA P/E 2021

Il post-quarantena sembra averci regalato una silhouette più allentata, fluida, confortevole, insieme a una ritrovata naturalezza. Una spontaneità nel mostrarsi per come si è che Natacha Ramsay-Levi per Chloé trasforma in una sorta di ‘oggetto di studio’, definendo i nuovi codici del guardaroba femminile. La sua analisi si traduce in una collezione che ha molti elementi delle precedenti ma più morbida, con meno embellishment e un focus sui colori. Gli abiti sono lunghe tuniche, shirt e slip dress attraversati da inserti in pizzo o decorati da leggeri motivi floreali alternati a top e camicie ampie, fermati a volte in vita da maxi-cinture, con gonne ariose e pantaloni larghi. Maria Grazia Chiuri lo dice chiaramente: “Stiamo vivendo in modo diverso, restando più a casa nell’intimità. I nostri vestiti devono riflettere questo nuovo stile…

Sfidiamo a trovare un designer che non abbia in qualche modo tratto ispirazione dall’esperienza del lockdown. Inevitabile. Ognuno ha sfruttato il momento per fare introspezione e pensare, ad esempio, alla propria idea di libertà nel momento in cui essa veniva negata. Come Riccardo Tisci, che da Burberry ha portato in scena una riflessione sulla solitudine e sulla sete di libertà sperimentate durante la quarantena. Non è un caso che scelga come location un bosco un poco claustrofobico in cui intervengono elementi sottomarini che trasformano le modelle in tante mezze sirene/pescatrici (prede o predatrici?) con tanto di stivaloni, superfici inguainate nelle reti, giacche impermeabili e lunghi trench. Al Palais Royal Isabel Marant mette in scena una serata in discoteca in tempi più felici, come gli anni ’80 ovvero edonismo e libertà allo stato…

Il post-quarantena sembra averci regalato una silhouette più allentata, fluida, confortevole, insieme a una ritrovata naturalezza. Una spontaneità nel mostrarsi per come si è che Natacha Ramsay-Levi per Chloé trasforma in una sorta di ‘oggetto di studio’, definendo i nuovi codici del guardaroba femminile. La sua analisi si traduce in una collezione che ha molti elementi delle precedenti ma più morbida, con meno embellishment e un focus sui colori. Gli abiti sono lunghe tuniche, shirt e slip dress attraversati da inserti in pizzo o decorati da leggeri motivi floreali alternati a top e camicie ampie, fermati a volte in vita da maxi-cinture, con gonne ariose e pantaloni larghi. Maria Grazia Chiuri lo dice chiaramente: “Stiamo vivendo in modo diverso, restando più a casa nell’intimità. I nostri vestiti devono riflettere questo…

E poi, cosa esce da un periodo tanto duro, se non un desiderio di gentilezza romantica, insieme a una certa seducente morbidezza. Stile che conosce bene Alberta Ferretti e che riprende ed enfatizza in questa sua ultima collezione, dopo essersene un poco allontanata nelle recenti stagioni. Per la designer il messaggio è quello “dell’accettazione del potere naturale della femminilità” che si traduce in fluidi abiti sottoveste e mini-dress in pizzo, alternati a gonne ultra-corte e culotte con reggiseno a vista o, al contrario, bluse accollatissime ma leziose. Blumarine è sempre stato sinonimo di romanticismo e il neo direttore creativo Nicola Brognano intende proseguire sulla stessa strada, semmai enfatizzando proprio questo aspetto. Balze, maxi petali di stoffa, stampe floreali, frange sbarazzine, Swarovski e nuance pastello sono i complementi di mini-abiti e mini-gonne, micro-top…

Sfidiamo a trovare un designer che non abbia in qualche modo tratto ispirazione dall’esperienza del lockdown. Inevitabile. Ognuno ha sfruttato il momento per fare introspezione e pensare, ad esempio, alla propria idea di libertà nel momento in cui essa veniva negata. Come Riccardo Tisci, che da Burberry ha portato in scena una riflessione sulla solitudine e sulla sete di libertà sperimentate durante la quarantena. Non è un caso che scelga come location un bosco un poco claustrofobico in cui intervengono elementi sottomarini che trasformano le modelle in tante mezze sirene/pescatrici (prede o predatrici?) con tanto di stivaloni, superfici inguainate nelle reti, giacche impermeabili e lunghi trench. Al Palais Royal Isabel Marant mette in scena una serata in discoteca in tempi più felici, come gli anni ’80 ovvero edonismo e libertà…

NEW STYLING FOR SHOWDETAILS.IT UN NUOVO STYLING PER SHOWDETAILS.IT For fifteen years, Showdetails has been a landmark for fashion researchers and insiders with its print magazines specialised in international collections. Its titles preview the men’s and women’s collection from the major Fashion Weeks as well as the details that make the difference when it comes to professional research, such as lines, materials, fabrics, prints, accessories, lace, embroidery, passementerie, cuts, buttons, zips and appliqués. In addition to its print magazines, Showdetails is also active on digital channels with a website, social media and an app, offering high quality information entirely for free, targeting not just those working in the trade but also fashion students and people with an interest in the sector. In line with evolving trends, and to offer a more targeted…

E poi, cosa esce da un periodo tanto duro, se non un desiderio di gentilezza romantica, insieme a una certa seducente morbidezza. Stile che conosce bene Alberta Ferretti e che riprende ed enfatizza in questa sua ultima collezione, dopo essersene un poco allontanata nelle recenti stagioni. Per la designer il messaggio è quello “dell’accettazione del potere naturale della femminilità” che si traduce in fluidi abiti sottoveste e mini-dress in pizzo, alternati a gonne ultra-corte e culotte con reggiseno a vista o, al contrario, bluse accollatissime ma leziose. Blumarine è sempre stato sinonimo di romanticismo e il neo direttore creativo Nicola Brognano intende proseguire sulla stessa strada, semmai enfatizzando proprio questo aspetto. Balze, maxi petali di stoffa, stampe floreali, frange sbarazzine, Swarovski e nuance pastello sono i complementi di mini-abiti e…

NEW STYLING FOR SHOWDETAILS.IT UN NUOVO STYLING PER SHOWDETAILS.IT For fifteen years, Showdetails has been a landmark for fashion researchers and insiders with its print magazines specialised in international collections. Its titles preview the men’s and women’s collection from the major Fashion Weeks as well as the details that make the difference when it comes to professional research, such as lines, materials, fabrics, prints, accessories, lace, embroidery, passementerie, cuts, buttons, zips and appliqués. In addition to its print magazines, Showdetails is also active on digital channels with a website, social media and an app, offering high quality information entirely for free, targeting not just those working in the trade but also fashion students and people with an interest in the sector. In line with evolving trends, and to offer a…

SHOWROOMS ANDREAS KRONTHALER FOR VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Tel. +33-149270023 info@viviennewestwood.co.uk www.viviennewestwood.com COACH www.coach.com CYNTHIA ROWLEY www.cynthiarowley.com DRIES VAN NOTEN Tel. +33-142744407 info@driesvannoten.be www.driesvannoten.be DSQUARED2 Tel. +39-0242297890 www.dsquared2.com ELIE SAAB Tel. +33-142567769 www.eliesaab.com EMILIO PUCCI Tel. +39-02885821 www.emiliopucci.com GUCCI Tel. +39-055264011 info@gucci.it www.gucci.com JW ANDERSON Tel. +44-2032274970 info@j-w-anderson.com www.j-w-anderson.com MAISON MARGIELA Tel. +33-144536300 reception@margiela.com www.maisonmargiela.com MSGM Tel. +39-073340079 info@msgm.it www.msgm.it NINA RICCI Tel. +33-140886436 www.ninaricci.com RODARTE info@rodarte.net www.rodarte.net ROKSANDA www.roksanda.com SCHIAPARELLI Tel. +33-176216264 www.schiaparelli.com SHIRTAPORTER Tel. +39-0457570591 info@shirtaporter.com www.shirtaporter.com STELLA MCCARTNEY Tel. +44-2075183100 www.stellamccartney.com TOM FORD Tel. +44-2073687800 www.tomford.com VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Tel. +33-149270023 info@viviennewestwood.co.uk www.viviennewestwood.com CATWALKS ALBERTA FERRETTI Tel. +39-0276003095 info@aeffe.com www.albertaferretti.com AMI www.amiparis.com BALENCIAGA Tel. +33-156521717 info@fr.balenciaga.com www.balenciaga.com BALMAIN Tel. +33-147203534 contact@balmain.fr www.balmain.com BLUMARINE Tel. +39-059637511 blufin@blufin.it www.blumarine.com BORA AKSU Tel. +44-2075150535 studio@boraaksu.com www.boraaksu.com BURBERRY Tel. +44-203402144 www.burberry.com CAROLINA HERRERA Tel. +1-2129445757 www.carolinaherrera.com CHANEL Tel. +33-142862600 www.chanel.com CHLOÉ Tel. +33-144943333 www.chloe.com DIOR Tel. +33-140737373 www.dior.com DOLCE & GABBANA Tel. +39-02774271 www.dolcegabbana.com EMPORIO ARMANI Tel. +39-02723181 www.armani.com ERDEM Tel. +44-2077397986 studio@erdem.com www.erdem.com ERMANNO SCERVINO Tel. +39-05564924 info@ermannoscervino.it www.ermannoscervino.com ETRO Tel. +39-0257931 info@etro.com www.etro.com FENDI Tel. +39-06334501 www.fendi.com GCDS info@gcds.it www.gcds.it GIAMBATTISTA VALLI Tel. +33-148040074 info@giambattistavalli.com www.giambattistavalli.com GIORGIO ARMANI Tel. +39-02723181 www.armani.com GIVENCHY Tel. +33-144315000 www.givenchy.com HERMÈS Tel. +33-140174717 www.hermes.com ISABEL MARANT Tel. +33-173139840 contact@isabelmarant.fr www.isabelmarant.com JACQUEMUS www.jacquemus.com JASON WU www.jasonwustudio.com KENZO Tel. +33-173042000 www.kenzo.com LOUIS VUITTON Tel. +33-155803200 www.louisvuitton.com MAX MARA Tel. +39-05223991 info@maxmarafashiongroup.com www.maxmara.com MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Tel. +1-2124524685 www.michaelkors.com MIU MIU Tel. +39-02550281 www.miumiu.com MOSCHINO Tel. +39-026787731 info@moschino.it www.moschino.com N°21 Tel. +39-027388974 www.numeroventuno.com NICOLE MILLER www.nicolemiller.com PACO RABANNE Tel. +33-140884545 contact@pacorabanne.com www.pacorabanne.com PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI Tel. +39-0541965211 info@aeffe.com www.philosophyofficial.com PRADA Tel. +39-02550281 www.prada.com RICK OWENS Tel. +33-140204252 www.rickowens.eu SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Tel. +39-0276000054 www.ferragamo.com SPORTMAX Tel. +39-05223991 info@sportmax.it www.sportmax.com VALENTINO Tel. +33-143128450 www.valentino.com VERSACE Tel. +39-02760931 www.versace.com VICTORIA BECKHAM Tel. +44-2078012012 www.victoriabeckham.com YOHJI YAMAMOTO Tel. +33-142789411 www.yohjiyamamoto.co.jp FOCUS ON ACCESSORIES BALLY www.bally.com BORBONESE Tel. +39-0297379911 mail@borbonese.com www.borbonese.com BULGARI Tel. +39-06688101 www.bulgari.com CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Tel. +33-153006261 www.christianlouboutin.com COACH www.coach.com FENDI Tel. +39-06334501 www.fendi.com GIORGIO ARMANI Tel. +39-02723181 www.armani.com HOGAN Tel. +39-07348661 www.hogan.com JACQUEMUS www.jacquemus.com LOUIS VUITTON Tel. +33-153575200 www.louisvuitton.com RENÉ CAOVILLA Tel. +39-0499801300 info@caovilla.com www.renecaovilla.com TOD’S Tel. +39-07348661 www.todsgroup.com VALENTINO Tel. +33-155351600 www.valentino.com NEWS SHOWDETAILS Tel. +39-0516389561 info@showdetails.it www.showdetails.it…

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SHOWROOMS ANDREAS KRONTHALER FOR VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Tel. +33-149270023 info@viviennewestwood.co.uk www.viviennewestwood.com COACH www.coach.com CYNTHIA ROWLEY www.cynthiarowley.com DRIES VAN NOTEN Tel. +33-142744407 info@driesvannoten.be www.driesvannoten.be DSQUARED2 Tel. +39-0242297890 www.dsquared2.com ELIE SAAB Tel. +33-142567769 www.eliesaab.com EMILIO PUCCI Tel. +39-02885821 www.emiliopucci.com GUCCI Tel. +39-055264011 info@gucci.it www.gucci.com JW ANDERSON Tel. +44-2032274970 info@j-w-anderson.com www.j-w-anderson.com MAISON MARGIELA Tel. +33-144536300 reception@margiela.com www.maisonmargiela.com MSGM Tel. +39-073340079 info@msgm.it www.msgm.it NINA RICCI Tel. +33-140886436 www.ninaricci.com RODARTE info@rodarte.net www.rodarte.net ROKSANDA www.roksanda.com SCHIAPARELLI Tel. +33-176216264 www.schiaparelli.com SHIRTAPORTER Tel. +39-0457570591 info@shirtaporter.com www.shirtaporter.com STELLA MCCARTNEY Tel. +44-2075183100 www.stellamccartney.com TOM FORD Tel. +44-2073687800 www.tomford.com VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Tel. +33-149270023 info@viviennewestwood.co.uk www.viviennewestwood.com CATWALKS ALBERTA FERRETTI Tel. +39-0276003095 info@aeffe.com www.albertaferretti.com AMI www.amiparis.com BALENCIAGA Tel. +33-156521717 info@fr.balenciaga.com www.balenciaga.com BALMAIN Tel. +33-147203534 contact@balmain.fr www.balmain.com BLUMARINE Tel. +39-059637511 blufin@blufin.it www.blumarine.com BORA AKSU Tel. +44-2075150535 studio@boraaksu.com www.boraaksu.com BURBERRY Tel. +44-203402144 www.burberry.com CAROLINA HERRERA Tel.…

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