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27 Articles

Editor’s letter

The past couple of months have been a time of much sadness across Scotland, following the death of The Queen at her beloved Balmoral, and so we pay tribute to her in Scotland Says Goodbye (p28) by tracing her final journey through the country she so loved. It’s also been a time of much change, and we now have a new King of Scots as well as a new Duke of Rothesay. You can read all about the shift in roles in Royal Titles (p56), where our expert in hereditary matters, Bruce Durie, explains the origin of many of the Scottish titles. Before the pivotal news, I managed to escape my desk and take a cruise in the Inner Hebrides, where I got up close to lots of Scottish wildlife…

Editor’s letter

THE EDINBURGH WOMAN WHO FOUND A KING

It’s a story that seems straight out of a Hollywood script and so it’s surprising that it’s taken 10 years to come to screen, but finally Edinburgh-based writer-turned-historic-sleuth Philippa Langley MBE is getting the spotlight she deserves. The Lost King, which premièred at the Toronto International Film Festival in September, tells the story of how Langley felt compelled to right the wrongs that had been directed at King Richard III, whose reputation was damaged by Tudor propaganda, and set about finding the remains of the king. In 1999 Langley founded The Boar and Saltire, the Scottish branch of the Richard III Society, and from here her research into the whereabouts of the king’s remains bore fruit, eventually leading to her discovery of Richard III under a car park in Leicester…

ST MUNGO REOPENS

One of Glasgow’s most cherished museums has reopened after an extended period of closure, despite concerns it would close permanently. Thanks to a petition by Interfaith Glasgow, St Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art, named after Glasgow’s patron saint, which stands in the medieval heart of Glasgow, has not only reopened but has extended its opening hours. St Mungo is the only public museum in the UK dedicated to religious life and art and among its treasured pieces is a bronze sculpture of the Hindu God, Shiva, and a beautiful piece of stained-glass depicting Moses, Elijah, David, and Enoch. It also boasts Britain’s first Zen garden. glasgowlife.org.uk/museums/venues/st-mungo-museum-of-religious-life-and-art…

ST MUNGO REOPENS

THE STONE COMES HOME

Stolen by the English during the reign of King Edward I and finally returned to the Scots in 1996, the Stone of Destiny is being brought back to its rightful home of Perth in 2024 after a period of 700 years. Originally kept in Scone Abbey within the grounds of Scone Palace, just outside Perth, since 1996 the Stone of Destiny, on which Scottish kings were crowned for centuries, has been on display in Edinburgh Castle. Meanwhile, Scone Palace has had to make do with a replica outside the chapel on Moot Hill (pictured), where coronations once took place. Construction is now well underway on the £26.5m restoration of Perth City Hall Museum where the Stone will be available to view from 2024 before visitors can see its historic home…

THE STONE COMES HOME

THE SKYE’S NO LIMIT

Edinbane Lodge, the reputable restaurant with rooms on the Isle of Skye, has been awarded Four AA Rosettes – the only restaurant on Skye to receive the accolade and one of just six restaurants to be awarded Four AA Rosettes across Scotland. Run by chef patron Calum Montgomery, whose family bought the run-down hunting lodge in 2017 and set about restoring it, Edinbane has built up an excellent reputation for its food offering and rooms over the past few years. Calum sources produce from a community of family and friends, who, like him, are committed to making the most of the island’s crofts, seas, and artisan production. Upon receiving the award, Calum said: “It means so much to bring this award to my native island home for the first time…

THE SKYE’S NO LIMIT

Getting around Scotland without a car has just got a little easier thanks to a new timetable of affordable daily coach routes connecting Scottish cities. FlixBus will now provide daily connections to and from Glasgow, Stirling, Perth, and Aberdeen through its partnership with Scotland’s largest independent bus company, McGill’s. Tickets, which cost as little as £5.99 for a 3.5-hour journey, can be booked through the FlixBus app or the company’s website. flixbus.co.uk…

NEVER MISS NESSIE

New webcams located along the shores of Loch Ness mean that Nessie hunters can now keep an eye out for Nessie 365 days of the year, wherever they are. Cameras are now located at five locations around the famous loch, including the Craigdarroch Hotel in Foyers and Drovers Lodge near Drumnadrochit. Michael Golding, CEO at Visit Inverness Loch Ness, said: “We are delighted to be able to provide live footage of the beautiful Loch Ness every day of the year. For people all over the world to watch Loch Ness through the changing seasons and get a glimpse of the beautiful scenery and abundant wildlife is very special. Of course, the webcams will also give Nessie fans another way of spotting our elusive and most popular resident!” Tourism providers are…

NEVER MISS NESSIE

EDITOR’S DIARY

FIVE OF THE BEST… PLACES TO CELEBRATE ROBERT BURNS 1 The Globe Inn and Dumfries Dumfries is a must for any Burns fan – it’s where the national bard spent his later years and where his mausoleum can be visited. Burns was known to like a drink and The Globe Inn, just off Dumfries’ high street, was his favourite watering hole. Now run by the owners of nearby Annandale Distillery, the fully refurbished pub offers seven-course tasting menus around the very table that Burns once sat down to dine at. If you’d like to extend your visit, stay the night at the town’s Cairndale Hotel & Leisure Club, which offers cosy rooms, plus a serene spa. distillerytours.scot/venues/the-globe-bar; cairndalehotel.co.uk 2 Ellisland Museum & Farm Built in 1788 by Robert Burns for…

INVERLOCHY EXPANDS

Inverlochy Castle, a stunning Highlands country house hotel, has announced ambitious renovation plans, which will see it add an extra eight bedrooms, bringing its full capacity to 35 bedrooms. The five-star 19th-century castle in the foothills of Ben Nevis, which stands within a 500-acre estate, is renovating its listed stables and walled garden. Norbert Lieder, managing director of Inverlochy Castle Management International, said: “The Scottish Highlands’ exceptional beauty and landscapes means there is extremely high demand for five-star accommodation within the region. The expansion designs pay homage to this historic landscape.” The new rooms will be ready from April 2023 and the expansion follows the 2022 launch of the hotel’s new interactive dining experience, Seasgair by Michel Roux Jr. From the Gaelic for ‘snug, comfortable, and warm’, Seasgair sees dishes…

Notes from the Isles

A friend of my daughter Mary recently organised a pilgrimage from Craig Phadraig, above Inverness, to Iona, and Mary decided to join the expedition. The route retraced the steps of St Columba and his 12 disciples (in the opposite direction) who came to Inverness from the Isle of Iona around AD565 to try and convert the Pictish King Bridei and his followers to Christianity. As they neared their destination, Columba and his disciples had to ford the River Ness where it flows into Loch Ness. According to Columba’s biographer, St Adamnan, Nessie emerged from the water with a mighty roar and attacked one of the monks as he swam across the river. Columba raised his hand, made the sign of the cross and ordered the monster to go no further…it…

Notes from the Isles

WE’VE GOT MAIL

TAKEN BACK TO TIGHNABRUAICH When I first saw the article on Tighnabruaich (Issue 123, September 2022), my memory flew back 70 years ago. I was a member of the First Glasgow Company of the Boys’ Brigade, the original company. Every Glasgow Fair we left town from the Broomielaw on board the paddle steamer Waverley to our destination, Tighnabruaich. When we arrived, we formed up and started a march with the bugle band playing our own song Portavadie by Millhouse, Argyll. We lived in bell tents, bathed in a cold, cold stream, and had a mess hall with a cook to feed us. We had a large rowboat to fish in Loch Fyne. The cook prepared our catch. Each tent competed against each other in everything. A highlight was a journey…

Over the Sea to Skye

Our skippers spot it first: a dark lump on the horizon. There’s a scramble as a second pair of binoculars is found and shared around, each of us careful not to take our eyes off the distant point while we wait our turn. Silence as we stand on the ship’s foredeck staring determinedly at the sea, hoping it wasn’t an illusion. And then we see it – the sleek arc of a minke whale’s back and a hint of its dorsal fin. It’s a humbling experience that elicits gasps from my three friends and I – even our skippers, Mary and Scott, seem awe struck. Gradually, Scott steers the boat a little further out in the Inner Sound, before cutting the engine and letting us bob on the water, waiting…

Over the Sea to Skye

Win a luxury escape to the Isle of Skye

Think of the most amazing parts of Scotland, and, of course, your mind will turn to Skye. The dramatic setting for many blockbuster films and TV programmes, Skye is regularly listed among the world’s best-loved islands. Now you, our loyal readers, are being given the opportunity to win a never-to-be forgotten break, with accommodation in one of the finest hotels on the ‘Misty Isle’, Duisdale House. Our winner will enjoy two nights’ dinner, bed and breakfast for two in a Deluxe room at Duisdale – a prize worth £1,000. Part of the multi award-winning Sonas Collection of hotels from former Scottish Hotelier of the Year Anne Gracie Gunn, Duisdale House overlooks the Atlantic waters of the Sound of Sleat towards the Knoydart wilderness. Twice voted Scotland’s Hotel of the Year,…

Win a luxury escape to the Isle of Skye

SCOTLAND SAYS GOODBYE

They came in their tens of thousands, residents of and visitors to Edinburgh, who lined the Royal Mile and crammed into the streets around it to pay their respects to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, who had died at Balmoral Castle just days before. Each year, from mid-July to October, Her Majesty made Balmoral, her great, great grandmother’s “dear paradise in the Highlands”, her home – staying at first at Craigowan Lodge on the estate, before moving into the main castle when it closed to the public in early August. And so, it may just have been a coincidence that it was at Balmoral that the Queen spent her final few weeks, but she no doubt took great comfort from the familiar surroundings of her 50,000-acre Aberdeenshire holiday estate in…

SCOTLAND SAYS GOODBYE

Historically, there has been a long legacy of commercial fishing in Scotland where it has developed from a subsistence activity – one undertaken to feed the fisher and their immediate community by the earliest settlers in Scotland, around 7000 BC – to a major food source and export commodity. During the 19th century, fishing for herring, white fish and fin fish thrived and at the peak of the Herring Boom in 1907, 2,500,000 barrels of fish (227,000 tonnes) were caught and exported to Europe and beyond. Now these stocks have become commercially extinct and the two principal fishing sectors that remain in Scotland are prawn and scallop fishing. Today, creel fishing, which involves laying dozens of baited pots on the seabed, known as creels, has become one of the most…

FROM SCOTLAND, WITH LOVE

LOCHCARRON OF SCOTLAND With a story stretching back to 1892, Lochcarron of Scotland is the world’s leading manufacturer of tartan, and a label any Scottish person would be proud to have in their wardrobe. Lochcarron’s skilled craftspeople handmake its tartan and tweed in the company’s weaving textile mill in Selkirk, in the Scottish Borders. Woven using natural, renewable and biodegradable fibres, Lochcarron products are built to last a lifetime. Whether you’re looking for a traditional Highland dress, a beautifully soft tartan lambswool scarf, or a wonderfully warm tartan jacket for the winter, with over 500 authentic Scottish tartans on offer, Lochcarron will take you from kilt to catwalk. lochcarron.co.uk THE HIGHLAND SOAP COMPANY Hebridean seaweed, Scottish bog myrtle, Highland lavender or wild Scottish raspberry; just a few of the natural…

FROM SCOTLAND, WITH LOVE

TOP SCOTTISH SHOPS

Here are three of the best places to shop on your next visit to Scotland. Multrees Walk The definition of Scottish luxury retail, Multrees Walk, just off St Andrew Square in Edinburgh, is home to some of the finest designer brands, as well as Scotland’s only Harvey Nichols, and is where you can buy Shortbread House of Edinburgh. multreeswalk.co.uk St James Quarter St James Quarter is Edinburgh’s newest shopping area, and a haven for any shopaholic. Stop into its John Lewis to stock up on whisky and Scottish treats. stjamesquarter.com/shop House of Bruar Situated in rural Perthshire, House of Bruar is an essential pilgrimage for anyone with an interest in Scottish country fashion and goods. Shop clothing, gifts, food and, of course, whisky. houseofbruar.com…

TOP SCOTTISH SHOPS

TRAVELS WITH TOM

Kilmartin Glen, in mid Argyll, is home to an extraordinary profusion of prehistoric monuments laced with important sites from the more recent past. What links these places? And how did the people who built them view the earlier structures? The glen – fringed by beautiful mature woodland and rocky hills with glimpses of the sea all around – is as full of mystery as it is of the remains of the ancient past, which makes a visit a fascinating exercise in historical puzzle solving. Although it’s on the main road between Oban and Campbeltown, the glen felt quiet when I visited in peak-season August. All along it are hundreds of rock carvings, burial cairns, stone circles and standing stones. The Kilmartin Museum (currently being refurbished) publishes excellent guides with walks…

TRAVELS WITH TOM

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THE UNSUNG WARRIOR

On 11 September 1297, the Scottish army of William Wallace and Andrew Moray, his co-commander, delivered a resounding victory over the English at Stirling Bridge. Many people around the world are familiar with the name William Wallace – the award-winning movie Braveheart was even about him – but, curiously, the just as valiant and equally as important Andrew Moray is much less well known. William Wallace was a member of the lesser nobility, but scarcely little is known of his family history. There are also disagreements about where exactly Wallace was born. Much more is known about Andrew Moray’s background. Andrew Moray, ‘The Younger of Petty’ was born in the latter half of the 13th century. Andrew’s father was the Justiciar of Scotia, a title referred to the most senior…

THE UNSUNG WARRIOR

HOTELS WITH history

The city of Edinburgh is layered with stories, from tales of medieval kings and queens to rumours concerning Regency writers and Victorian visionaries, and a stay in one of the city’s many historic hotels will get you closer to some of these stories. We’ve handpicked some of the city’s most iconic hotels with history, whose buildings are as much a part of the city and its past as Edinburgh Castle and the Scott Monument. With distinctive Scottish architecture, high-profile past guests and occupants, as well as convenient locations for exploring the capital, these hotels both celebrate the city’s rich past, and provide the modern amenities and trimmings that we have all come to expect from a luxury hotel. THE BALMORAL Greeting you as soon as you walk up the steps…

HOTELS WITH history

We have a new king. On the death of his mother Queen Elizabeth II on 8 September 2022 and his accession to the throne, HRH Prince Charles became King Charles III. In Scotland, he is King of Scots, the title inherited from James VI of Scots when he also became James I of England in 1603. That nomenclature itself is instructive. Charles may be king of the nation of England and Wales, but in Scotland, he is monarch to the people, not the place. As King, Charles could have chosen any regnal name. His grandfather, known to history as George VI, was named Albert at birth after his great-grandfather Albert, Prince Consort, and was known as Bertie to his family and close friends, but chose George after his father. George…

Tibet on White Esk

It’s not a sight you’d expect to see in the Scottish Lowlands: cheerful prayer flags flapping in the breeze around a gleaming, white-and-gold stupa. With only small villages for miles around, western Europe’s largest Buddhist temple, Kagyu Samye Ling Monastery and Tibetan Centre, seems like an incongruous addition to this bucolic setting. “Samye Ling was the first Tibetan Buddhist centre that was established in Europe,” explains Ani Gelongma Lhamo, a Buddhist nun and native of Scotland, who has lived at the temple since 1989. Dressed in red robes, her head shaved, she speaks with a clear, calm authority that has even led to her addressing Scottish Parliament about the enduring importance of tolerance and compassion. The monastery, founded in 1967, is of the scale that one would expect in India’s…

Tibet on White Esk

Between the Uists

Benbecula is one of the smaller vertebrae that comprise the spine of the Outer Hebrides’ island chain. Just eight miles long and eight miles broad in the beam, nature has neatly slotted it, in a pleasingly jigsaw-like way, between North and South Uist. Many visitors traverse this pebble in the Atlantic by car in just 10 minutes, but in so doing they miss an island that punches, from a historical and wildlife perspective, above its weight. In case you were wondering, the stress is on the second syllable, ‘ben-BECK-you-luh’ and the island’s Gaelic name, Beinn na Faoghla, translates as ‘the mountain of the fords’. The ‘mountain’ in question is Rueval (Ruabhal), which rises to the mighty-mouse height of 124m (406ft) amid a surrounding land of unrelenting flatness, and those who…

Between the Uists

CATCHING THE LIGHT

John Lowrie Morrison (known affectionately as Jolomo) is very much one of Scotland’s best-loved painters. Imitation is indeed the sincerest form of flattery: you only have to visit any one of a host of galleries to see the number of Jolomo-like prints and originals by the many artists who’ve sought to copy his distinctive style. Often enough there’s a white house low to the ground; banks of moody grey island hills behind, a wild blue sea somewhere in between, and in the foreground a vivid mustard yellow or orange. John didn’t begin his days in the west of Scotland. Rather, he was brought up in Glasgow and went to Glasgow schools; in the late 60s he studied at the famous Glasgow School of Art. That’s one side of the story.…

CATCHING THE LIGHT

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

SCOTLAND 19 November 2022 – 3 January 2023 EDINBURGH’S CHRISTMAS, EDINBURGH Watch as the city is transformed into a real-life winter wonderland, with traditional Christmas markets, pop-up ice rinks and Christmas light trails. visitscotland.com/see-do/events/christmas-winter-festivals/Edinburgh 30 December 2022 – 1 January 2023 EDINBURGH’S HOGMANAY, EDINBURGH Torchlight parades, street parties, fireworks, and a river swim. Experience the world-famous New Year’s party. edinburghfestivalcity.com/festivals/edinburghs-hogmanay 30 December – 1 January 2023 RED HOT HIGHLAND FLING, INVERNESS Scotland’s biggest Hogmanay celebration is back this year, with music from Scottish supergroup Mànran, fireworks and more. inverness-courier.co.uk/news/red-hot-highland-fling-to-ring-in-the-bells-287258/ 21 January 2023 BURNS NIGHT AT ÒRAN MÓR, GLASGOW Based inside an old church, this venue is serving up a Burns Night meal with a live bagpiper. oran-mor.co.uk 27 – 28 January 2023 BURNS SUPPER ABOARD THE ROYAL YACHT BRITANNIA Celebrate…

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

THE STORY BEHIND…

I started work on Cheers, Mr. Churchill! Winston in Scotland on the day the UK went into its first Covid-19 lockdown. These restrictions presented challenges to every aspect of life and producing the first full account of Winston Churchill’s 15 years as MP in Dundee and his wider relationship with Scotland was, of course, no different. Cheers, Mr. Churchill! Winston in Scotland tells the story of the extraordinary personal and political rivalry between Winston Churchill and the leader of the Scottish Prohibition Party, Edwin Scrymgeour. Scrymgeour, who advocated for the complete prohibition of alcohol, first challenged Churchill in 1908 and would be defeated by him five times. But he never gave up, eventually defeating the champagne-loving future Prime Minister in 1922. To date, Scrymgeour is the only Prohibitionist ever elected…

THE STORY BEHIND…

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