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21 Articles

Editor’s letter

Winter in Scotland is a wonderful time of year – from Hogmanay to the fire festivals, it’s a time for communities to come together and help each other through the colder, darker months. And so it seemed like the right time of year to bring you our clans special, which is all about connecting people, wherever they are in the world. In Clan seats (p17), our resident genealogist takes us on a tour of some of the most remarkable clan castles across Scotland – if you’re looking for a new year’s resolution, visiting your clan’s castle is not a bad place to start. Another good promise to yourself could be finally signing up to that clan society that you’ve been meaning to for years. If you need some inspiration, then…

Editor’s letter

[TOURISM] SCOTT’S VIEW Funding has been secured to create a new viewpoint in the very place where Scottish tourism was born. Through his Lady of the Lake poem, Sir Walter Scott firelit an interest in Scotland, with crowds of people flocking to The Trossachs and Loch Katrine to see for themselves the landscapes he so eloquently described. Now a three-storey scenic tower, commissioned by The Steamship Sir Walter Scott Trust, will allow visitors to enjoy the majesty of the area better. Opening in spring 2024, the tower will be known as Roderick Dhu Watchtower due to the site’s earlier associations with Rob Roy MacGregor – apparently clansmen used it as a lookout to warn Rob Roy about approaching redcoats. lochlomond-trossachs.org [FOOD AND DRINK] PIER-LESS OFFERING The delightful Pierhouse Hotel & Seafood…

EDITOR’S DIARY

TOP FIVE WISHLIST FOR 2024 1 Celebrate Robert the Bruce So big is his legacy that it’s unfathomable that it is 750 years since the birth of King Robert the Bruce. In 2024 there will be many places marking the anniversary, but I suspect few will do it as well as the city of Stirling, where he scored a decisive victory at the nearby Battle of Bannockburn in 1314. This year also marks the 900th anniversary of the Royal Burgh of Stirling, so the city is sure to be in a celebratory mood. yourstirling.com; nts.org.uk/visit/places/bannockburn 2 Visit Paisley Museum I have been waiting and waiting for the opening of this world-class museum, which I hope will transform the fortunes of the town of Paisley, and the date is almost here, with the…

Notes from the Isles

When I got engaged 66 years ago, my husband’s grandmother gave me a Douglas Heart: a multi-faceted, heart-shaped amethyst about the size of a large walnut, with a pearl-studded gold crown on top, to be worn as a necklace on a gold chain. She considered it to be a suitable present for the fiancée of someone called Douglas. It’s a treasured possession and I wear it as often as possible, but it wasn’t until about 13 years ago, when I was commissioned to write an article about Drumlanrig Castle, that I realised what an incredibly serendipitous gift it was. Somewhat reluctantly, because I wasn’t feeling 100-per-cent fit, with my head swathed in a turban to hide chemotherapy baldness, I made my way down to Dumfriesshire, expecting yet another grim old…

Notes from the Isles

WE’VE GOT MAIL

BRIDGE TO THE PAST In response to your request for suggestions of favourite places discovered, I wanted to share one with you: the Fairy Bridge of Glen Creran near Appin, Argyll. Local legend has it that the bridge was built by faeries to trip the burn that runs beneath it. Reality is probably less spectacular, but there is an otherworldliness about the place that is hard to explain. It reminds one of a location from one of The Lord of the Rings films or an episode of Outlander. The first reference I’ve found to the bridge is from 1700, though some believe it may date to around 1500. The bridge is located on what is undoubtedly an old drovers’ trail between Appin on the coast and Rannoch Moor, at the…

DUNROBIN CASTLE Golspie, Dornoch Sutherland, Gordon Dunrobin is the furthest north of Scotland’s great castles, offering great views over the Moray Firth. With its French-inspired design by Sir Charles Barry – also responsible for London’s Houses of Parliament – dating from 1835-1850, it’s also the embodiment of a fairytale castle. The interiors of Dunrobin’s 189 rooms were restored after a fire in 1915, courtesy of Scottish architect, Sir Robert Lorimer. Some of the original building can be seen in the interior courtyard. The Sutherlands, later earls then dukes, have been at Dunrobin Castle since the 14th century, with the land in the hands of Hugh de Moravia, grandson of the Flemish noble Freskin, before 1211. The Earldom of Sutherland was created for Hugh’s son, William, around 1230. The name, Dunrobin,…

Scottish Heritage USA, Inc.

Founded 1965 We are a non-profit organization dedicated to the preservation and enrichment of Scottish traditions, history, and culture and fostering strong ties with the people and places of Scotland. Membership Benefits ‣ You enable support for scholarships in piping, drumming and Highland dance ‣ You provide grants for historical treasures owned by the National Trust for Scotland ‣ You receive a subscription to “Scotland” magazine (6 issues) ‣ You receive a subscription to the National Trust for Scotland magazine (3 issues) ‣ You receive 10 Scottish Heritage USA e-newsletters ‣ You gain FREE admission* to all (over 70) National Trust for Scotland properties** *including a reciprocal membership to the National Trust for Scotland USA and FREE admission to National Trust sites in England, Wales and Northern Ireland. **AND FREE…

Scottish Heritage USA, Inc.

Pewter is an ancient silver-grey alloy metal, comprised mainly of tin, that has been a part of Scottish culture for centuries. Discovered by the Romans in around AD200, it was known as the ‘metal of kings’ because it could only be afforded by royalty. During the 16th and 19th centuries, pewter became one of Scotland’s most prized precious metals, and as an everyday commodity, became an integral part of Scottish churches, homes, and trade. Pewter was popular for ecclesiastical items, such as communion bread plates, wine cups, flagons (large containers to serve communion wine) and basins for baptism, alongside pewter plates, tankards, and measures for the sale of wine, ale, and other liquids. As the craft grew in response to demand, a pewtersmiths’ guild was established in Scotland called the…

ETIQUETTE OF WEARING YER KILT

The question I get asked most often when I swish around in my kilt is the most obvious, and the most embarrassing – “what does a Scotsman really wear under his kilt?” I’ll come to that, but firstly let’s delve into kilt wearing – a serious business alive with tradition and etiquette that you must always consider before unfurling those tartan yards of wool around your waist. The kilt is no mere tartan skirt. It is inexorably bound up in the rich cultural and historical weave of Scotland, once banned by the British Government such was its potent symbolism and motivational power. I feel very different when I wear a kilt. I’m never more proudly Scottish, whether it is for its more traditional modern uses at a cèilidh or wedding,…

ETIQUETTE OF WEARING YER KILT

HIGHLAND FLINGS

SCOTLAND 19 May 2024 GORDON CASTLE HIGHLAND GAMES Kicking off the 2024 Highland games season, these games feature traditional events alongside a country fair and a gathering of Gordon Setter dogs. gordoncastle.co.uk 25 May 2024 BLACKFORD HIGHLAND GAMES Back for its 152nd year, these games have been running since 1870, and is as perfect an example of a traditional Highland games, as you can imagine. https://www.blackfordhighland-games.co.uk 25-26 May 2024 ATHOLL GATHERING, BLAIR ATHOLL, PERTHSHIRE Set in the grounds of beautiful Blair Castle, this gathering and Highland games opens with the ‘March On’ by the Atholl Highlanders, the only private army in Europe. atholl-estates.co.uk 1 June 2024 HELENSBOROUGH AND LOMOND HIGHLAND GAMES, HELENSBOROUGH Situated very close to Loch Lomond’s bonnie, bonnie, banks these traditional games include events like the sheaf toss,…

HIGHLAND FLINGS

Win an escape to the remote island of Luing

With a population of just under 200, Luing is a truly undiscovered, remote part of Scotland, which is why we’ve teamed up with WildLuing to offer one winner and their guest a two-night stay in one of its stylish, unique, and luxurious self-catering hideaways. WildLuing is a labour of love, built and designed by the Cadzow family who have lived and farmed on the Isle of Luing for over 75 years. WildLuing consists of The Observatory and eight luxury self-catering ‘WildSuites’. The Observatory is nestled in the centre of the site and is the central hub that features a large dining table, seating 20 people, and a dramatic backdrop out to sea. The WildSuites sit in a commanding position, saluting the sea and looking out to the otters and seals…

Win an escape to the remote island of Luing

KEEP IT IN THE FAMILY

You may have noticed our clan society pages at the back of the magazine each issue (see page 78) but do you know what a clan society is? The short answer is a clan society is a community of people with a shared connection to a Scottish clan or family. They vary in how they operate but they usually require a relatively modest annual fee for which you will get certain benefits – invites to gatherings, newsletters, information, talks, and more. In essence, it’s like finding your tribe and offers an overriding sense of belonging. Clan gatherings are wonderful events – designed to encourage people with a shared heritage to come together and celebrate and learn about the culture and customs of their ancestors. They often include lots of music,…

KEEP IT IN THE FAMILY

3 ISSUES FOR £6

£4.95 Only £2 an Issue The perfect companion for anyone interested in the rich history and culture of Scotland – full of fascinating stories and inspiration in every issue Order an annual subscription to Scotland magazine for yourself or as a gift: UK £21.95 | Europe €43.95 | USA $45.95 | Canada $68.95 | Australia $68.95 | Rest of World $68.95 UK & ROW go to www.chelseamagazines.com/CSCO224 Or phone +44 (0)1858 438 789 (quoting code CSCO224) USA & Canada go to www.chelseamagazines.com/SC-J312S1 Or phone 800-925-8215 (quoting code J312S1) *This offer is open to UK delivery addresses via continuous payment methods only. You will pay £6 for your first three issues, then £11.95 every six issues thereafter, saving 19% on the usual shop price. If for any reason you’re not happy with your…

3 ISSUES FOR £6

The east made easy

The exposed mountain scenery of Scotland’s west coast has been exported all over the world as the archetypal Highlands landscape. Visitors flock to the West Highlands’ shortbread-tin destinations of Glen Coe and the Isle of Skye, where much of the hill country is rugged and weather-beaten, glorious to look at, but inaccessible to all but the fittest hill climbers. Over in the East Highlands, the land is a little more gentle, more rhythmic and rural, but no less stunning. Here, where the lofty Cairngorms mountain range has five of the UK’s six highest mountains and a quarter of Scotland’s native forest, it’s every bit as wonderful as the west, yet it sees just a fraction of the visitors. Scotland’s East Highlands were made for slowing down: beautiful ever-changing mountain views…

The east made easy

A WELL BURIED SECRET

For over 250 years, people have been searching the Scottish Highlands for clues to the location of a buried treasure. There have been plenty of rumours and legends regarding its whereabouts, sometimes even stories of occasional coins being unearthed, but so far nobody has solved the mystery of the lost Jacobite gold. In May 1746, just a couple of weeks after Bonnie Prince Charlie’s men lost the Battle of Culloden, two French ships called Mars and Bellona arrived on Scotland’s west coast. They sailed into Loch nan Uamh carrying much-needed gold from both France and Spain, ready to fund the Jacobite campaign. As far as they knew, this was still an unbeaten force, achieving what many had believed impossible. Once the French sailors discovered that the cause had already been…

A WELL BURIED SECRET

3 ISSUES OF BRITAIN MAGAZINE FOR ONLY £6

£4.95 ONLY £2 AN ISSUE Enjoy our fantastic subscriber benefits • Pay only £2 an issue when you subscribe* • Never miss an issue - free delivery direct to your door • Enjoy instant digital access to the latest issue upon subscribing Overseas customers can enjoy one of these great subscription options: Europe an annual subscription for €43.95 USA an annual subscription for $45.95 Rest of World an annual subscription for $68.95 Two easy ways to subscribe USA & Canada call 888-321-6378 and quote code K4JFBSA or visit www.chelseamagazines.com/K4JFBSA UK & ROW call 01858 438878 and quote code CSCXBT24 or visit www.chelseamagazines.com/CSCXBT24 * This offer is open to UK delivery addresses via continuous payment methods only. You will pay £6 for your first three issues, then £11.95 every six issues thereafter,…

3 ISSUES OF BRITAIN MAGAZINE FOR ONLY £6

Founding the STEWART DYNASTY

The death of David II, son of Robert the Bruce, in 1371 marked the end of the Bruce reign and the bloody beginnings of the Stewart dynasty, one that would rule Scotland for 343 years. While war with England was largely kept at bay through various truces and the Auld Alliance with France remained predominantly intact, the first Stewart monarchs battled internally with issues of legitimacy, both old and young ascendants to the throne, and attempted power grabs by strong, rival families. Despite this, the founding Stewart fathers did eventually instil a firmer, if heavy-handed approach to royal governance, instigating reforms and securing the foundations of the dynasty that would ultimately unite the Scottish and English thrones centuries later in 1603. ROBERT II Robert Stewart, maternal grandson of The Bruce,…

Founding the STEWART DYNASTY

The secret peninsula

Narrow, rocky roads that seem to wend and wind at will, with ditches either side, can be daunting to the uninitiated. The first time I visited Ardnamurchan, one of Scotland’s most remote peninsulas – a finger of land poking out of the west coast between Moidart and Morvern – I arrived via the Corran Ferry. On that visit, it was autumn, the nights were drawing in and navigating the B8007 road as it skirted Loch Sunart for an hour or more to reach our refuge, was challenging to say the least. This time, the Corran Ferry is closed so we’ve had to come the long way round via Loch Eil from Fort William, which has put a fair amount of time onto our journey. Thankfully, this time it’s May, and…

The secret peninsula

Beyond Callanish

I’m walking alongside Loch Morsgail, looking for a grassy track, something greener than the russet deer grass that encircles the water. Locating it, I follow the narrow track as it zigzags back almost the way I’ve come. It leads to stepping stones that offer a bridge of sorts across the Abhainn a’ Lòin, an enigmatic name that translates from Gaelic as ‘the River of the Pond’. The stones, put in place by nature rather than man, are uneven but I’m able to negotiate the tumbling waters without mishap. I plod along the faint path deeper into the hinterland of Uig (not to be confused with Uig, the ferry port on Skye) in the southwest corner of the island of Lewis. After a mile, I pick out what I’ve come to…

Beyond Callanish

GATEWAY TOSCOTLAND

Scotland’s cities Edinburgh Black Cab Tours Hosted by friendly kilt-clad taxi-driving locals with years of tourism expertise, Edinburgh Black Cab Tours offers an award-winning experience that can be tailored to you. As well as day trips and multi-day tours that venture into the Highlands, whisky distilleries or golf courses, Edinburgh Black Cab Tours offers expert tours of the capital itself, as well as historic Stirling, beautiful St Andrews, and the fishing villages of Fife. Whether you’re interested in history, architecture, or simply sampling an authentic clootie dumpling, on these tours where you are driven around in a black cab by a local, the itinerary is up to you. Prices start from £165 per person edinburghblackcabtours.co.uk Scotland City Tours Edinburgh’s fascinating, captivating and sometimes rather grisly past could fill a hundred…

GATEWAY TOSCOTLAND

THE STORY BEHIND…

My new novel is called The Perfect Passion Company, and it is the first in a series accounting life in an old fashioned marriage bureau in Edinburgh. The story is based on a woman who has been working in London and who comes back to Edinburgh to take over her father’s cousin’s business. These old fashioned bureaus do still exist, and I think they give people a more personal, or bespoke form of introduction than meeting someone online. The book provides a setting for a number of, what I might describe as, love stories, or of encounters between people who are looking for people to love. Edinburgh lends itself to all sorts of settings, particularly romantic ones. It is one of the most romantic looking cities in Western Europe. Even…

THE STORY BEHIND…

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