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31 Articles

NORTH AMERICA 1 PORTLAND, OREGON Breaking sushi stereotypes, p. 17 2 KAUAI, HAWAII Making mead with an island influence, p. 21 3 PORTLAND, OREGON Rebellious pizza-making, p. 32 4 BROOKLYN, NEW YORK Innovative vegetable stocks, p. 38 5 PUEBLA, MEXICO Communal cooking, p. 54 6 NOVA SCOTIA, CANADA Rediscovering black-Scotian cuisine, p. 96 7 OAXACA, MEXICO Barbacoa for breakfast 8 EVANSTON, ILLINOIS Reviving Midwestern wheat SOUTH AMERICA 9 LA PAZ, BOLIVIA Exploring local food markets, p. 88 10 AMAZONAS, BRAZIL Solar-powered ice machines EUROPE 11 CHIOS, GREECE Mastic production, p. 20 12 MONTALCINO, ITALY Twin-sister winemakers, p. 22 13 JABUGO, SPAIN Learning from a jamón master, p. 26 14 PUGLIA, ITALY Garden cooking, p. 60 15 ALOJA, LATVIA Celebrating country fare, p. 76 16 SARDINIA, ITALY Mysterious mountain island 17…

By Women, About Women

IT’S APPARENT BY NOW THAT WHAT HAPPENS in the food world can have big, sweeping reverberations outside of it. The choices we make individually and collectively about food—like what we eat, and how and where we grow, make, and consume it—affect everything from agriculture and the environment to political policy, world hunger, climate change, and so much more. Food also plays a societal role, influencing how we act toward and around one another, and the way we experience people, cultures, and traditions that are different from us and our own. Ultimately this all factors in to how well we understand and relate to one another in our communities and across borders. We are happy that 2018 is a year, long overdue, in which women are being prioritized, listened to, and…

By Women, About Women

OREGON • GREECE • HAWAII • TUSCANY • SPAIN • MUMBAI TWELVE YEARS AGO, FOLLOWING a short but eye-opening stint in prison, Mary Stallworth needed a new career. Floating around Detroit kitchens as a line cook between gambling binges wasn’t going to cut it anymore. But because the restaurant business was all she knew, Stallworth worked to advance past the line. Half Japanese and half African-American, she found a unique niche as the liaison between the sushi bar and the rest of the kitchen at Chen Chow Brasserie in Birmingham, Michigan. She picked up skills, first making rolls for family meals, then training to help put out large orders. Just as she began to feel she had found her calling in the world of rice, fish, and seaweed, the sushi…

THERE’S AN ART TO MAKING MASTIC TREES CRY. It takes a little bit of pressure to lodge the tip of a pick into the bark and pull it across the tree in a process called kentima, or sewing. Too little force and nothing happens; too much and you risk damaging the tree, drying up its precious resin long before retirement age. The incision should immediately start to shimmer with oozing sap, which will eventually elongate into sticky, glittery tears. Chios mastiha, or mastic, has a distinct, piney taste that people either love or hate. When it dries off the tree, you’ll find it in opalescent white pieces of varying shapes and sizes. While perfectly edible in this form—a chewy, slow-dissolving candy—it is also consumed in a variety of other ways.…

From Bee to Bottle

A SOFT AMBIENT GROOVE drifts through the tasting room of Nani Moon Meadery on Kauai, as three travelers take their first sips of Laka’s Nectar, the most honey-forward blend in mead-maker Stephanie Krieger’s collection. Light, complex, and occasionally effervescent, her meads are nothing like the dense, sweet honey wines created by ancient brewers. By the time the group has finished their glasses, mead has shaken its 7,000-year-old reputation to exhibit complexities as diverse as its modern makers. Krieger was a marine scientist before she shifted to mead-making. She is using her training to help forge a new path for the industry, one committed to local sourcing and countering the global decline in bee populations. She concentrates on local fruits that don’t export well—all grown within 15 miles of the meadery—and…

From Bee to Bottle

The Sisters of Fonterenza

IT’S NOT THE KIND OF PLACE where you’d expect great wines were being made. Bras and T-shirts are strewn on a clothing rack, turning dry and stiff in the relentless sun. Children’s toys and wooden bikes, temporarily forgotten, are scattered around the stone terrace. And two women, shouting to each other from somewhere in the house, are either really mad or simply Italian. This is Campi di Fonterenza, a biodynamic winery in the Tuscan hilltop town of Montalcino. It’s also home to Francesca and Margherita Padovani, identical-twin sisters who have been making a formidable Brunello di Montalcino since 2004. “This was our parents’ summer home,” says Francesca, who moved here from Milan with her sister almost 20 years ago. The sisters Padovani are like beautiful agrarian hipsters—thick dark hair, chiseled…

The Sisters of Fonterenza

Jamón ibérico de bellota is arguably Spain’s greatest contribution to the world of food. It’s a melt-in-your-mouth treasure and priced to match, with packages in the United States fetching more than $200 a pound. Famously, it’s made from free-range Iberian pigs, who forage and feast on the acorns that allow them to pack on flavorful fat. But a plump pig leg doesn’t just become a prized ham. The transformation occurs thanks to a slow-curing process as traditional and hands-on as blacksmithing. At Cinco Jotas, one of the oldest and most prestigious producers, much of the process is directed by Cristina Sánchez, the responsable de bodega, or cellar master. She is a native of Jabugo—where Cinco Jotas is based and where nearly all of the town’s 2,400 residents work in the…

WHILE TRAVELING THROUGH THE wetlands of northeast India’s Majuli island, chef Amninder Sandhu and the team from Arth, her Mumbai restaurant, sat down for a meal with members of the local Mishing tribe. They were presented with a thali, a traditional round platter, loaded with local delicacies: banana flowers, fish curry, fiddlehead ferns. “There were also these really tiny potatoes,” Sandhu recalls. “We thought they were chickpeas at first, because they were that small. But I put one in my mouth and realized, these are the potatoes I grew up eating as a child!” The guti aloo, or “pearl potatoes,” as Sandhu calls them, are native to India’s Assam state, and are just one of dozens of regional ingredients she has brought back to her kitchen in Mumbai. Sandhu spent…

A League of Their Own

SARAH MINNICK of Lovely’s Fifty-Fifty had little ambition to become a pizzaiola—which might be why she has one of the most refreshing, liberating takes on pizza around. In 2003, the former art student opened a fine-dining restaurant in Portland, Oregon, with her sister and mother. When the recession hit, the team pivoted to pizza. And when her umpteenth chef quit, Minnick took over the pie making. “I’d developed a palate for bright, seasonal food at the restaurant,” she says. As for mastering pizza dough: “I just kept practicing until I had it right.” The recipe, which continues to evolve, is now around 40-percent-whole grain sourdough and uses up to five different artisanal flours, and the toppings are mostly vegetables—100 percent Oregon grown. “Now I work closely with just a few…

A League of Their Own

Beyond Tomato Purée

1 Herbed Yogurt Sauce MAKES 4 CUPS Total: 10 min. Think of this as a sophisticated version of ranch dressing. Drizzle it over a baked pie topped with spinach or any other veggie that could benefit from a bright, tangy boost, like roasted baby onions or potatoes. 3 cups whole-milk yogurt, divided1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil1 Tbsp. honey vinegar, such as Katz brand (or 1 tsp. honey and 2 tsp. sherry vinegar)1 Tbsp. kosher salt1 Tbsp. onion powder½ cup fresh dill or basil (½ oz.), chopped 1 In a medium bowl, whisk 2½ cups yogurt, the oil, vinegar, salt, and onion powder. Set aside. 2 In a blender, combine the remaining ½ cup yogurt with the dill or basil and blend until smooth and green, about 15 seconds. Transfer to…

Beyond Tomato Purée

Dehydrated Tomatoes

It’s been a while since it was socially acceptable among the chef circuit to use mediocre, out-of-season tomatoes on sandwiches and burgers. So why should pizza be any different? While canned whole peeled tomatoes are a perfectly fine go-to for making sauce (Minnick likes to can local, organic Oregon tomatoes herself for this purpose), dehydrating a few pounds of fresh fruit is another way to get summery tomato flavor in the off-season. “Now I work closely with just a few farmers, and I use whatever they bring me,” Minnick says. Whatever is working best determines the daily menu. “In late summer or early fall, I start putting up tomatoes for the rest of the year,” Minnick says. “I do can some for soups and pasta sauces, but I dehydrate the…

Dehydrated Tomatoes

Learn How to Layer

1. Ricotta Salata This pressed, salted, aged sheep’smilk cheese has a sharp, salty flavor. Shave it onto non-tomato pies with a fontina or Toma base. 2. Pecorino Fiore Sardo Grated cheese goes onto almost all of Minnick’s pies. This smoky, hard cheese from Sardinia has a slightly stronger flavor than Parm. 3. Fontina In place of mozzarella, Minnick melts handfuls of this stinkier cow’s-milk cheese onto white pies as a dough-blanketing base. 4. Wrangeback This historic Swedish cheese is a richer option for complementing a base cheese. “It has an aged-cheddar-with-crystals quality.” 5. Provolone On tomato pies, where the sauce adds sweetness and moisture, provolones are good, non-weepy choices for a base cheese. 6. Feta Once the mozzarella has been layered on, a sharper, crumbly cheese like feta adds complexity.…

Learn How to Layer

SCRAPS MAY COME TO MIND when you’re piecing together a vegetable stock—whatever is left on the cutting board is often thrown in a pot and simmered to murky results. But while writing my book Mastering Stocks and Broths, I found a more precise approach made for better stock. Removing moisture from vegetables before simmering made them far more impactful. Roasting, for example, intensifies mushrooms’ earthy flavor. Dehydrating brings out a pungent sweetness in winter squash. Aging and fermenting, as in black garlic, lends umami and tamarind-like complexity. Try the unique flavor of these stocks in soups and sauces. 1. Roasted Mushroom Stock MAKES 12 CUPS Total: 2 hr. 30 min. Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a bowl, toss 1½ lb. mixed mushrooms (preferably darker varieties such as cremini); 1…

Chef Esther Choi of mŏkbar in Brooklyn grew up cooking and eating traditional Korean food, many of the recipes taught to her by her grandmother. “My mom jokes with me that before I even had teeth, I was sucking on kimchi.” THREE DECADES AGO, when Esther Choi’s parents and grandmother emigrated from Korea to New Jersey, they set to work building a garden to make their own kimchi, the basis of most of their weeknight meals. “At the time, there was no kimchi at restaurants nearby,” she says, “and it was hard even to find any Asian ingredients in stores.” Choi’s grandmother began gathering neighbors and friends to make communal batches of kimchi in their local church basement. The fall batch was the most important because it meant their garden…

Making Kimchi Is Easier Than You Think

Once your chile paste is made, homemade kimchi is simply a matter of mixing everything together, sealing the jar, then just patiently waiting. 1. Salt the cabbage. “This is the number-one thing,” Choi says about salting, a part of the process called joelim in Korean. Salting the cabbage and letting it rest draws out its water and gives it a lightly “cooked” texture, preparing it to be fermented. “Not every salt is the same and not every cabbage is the same, so even if you have an exact recipe, you will still probably have to improvise based on what looks and feels right.” Eight to 10 hours of rest after salting is a good starting point, but check earlier to determine how much the cabbage leaves have wilted. “You want…

Making Kimchi Is Easier Than You Think

Lessons From the Griddle

IT’S NEVER SURPRISED ME that, in India, there are restaurants dedicated to dosas. One of the country’s most flavorful, sustaining, and comforting foods, these thin, sometimes massive crêpes made from a fermented batter of ground rice and dal (dried, split beans) are typically filled with spiced vegetables and served with refreshing chutneys. Though they originated in South India as a breakfast food, dosas have become so popular that they’re served at all times of day throughout the country. Unlike French crêpes or American pancakes, which are cakey throughout, the ideal dosa is crisp and golden on the outside, with a slightly spongy interior. The best ones glisten without being greasy, and, by way of a well-fermented batter, have all the flavor of an exceptionally funky sourdough. Growing up in Dallas,…

Lessons From the Griddle

Make a Dreamy Dosa

You can use a nonstick pan to make a 12-inch version, or mimic the whopping crêpes made on commercial griddles in India by using a large, well-oiled cast-iron or freestanding electric griddle. Either way, learning to perfect the balance between crunchy edges and a pillowy underside takes a few tries. (A properly mixed and fermented batter goes a long way; recipe at right.) Once you’ve got the batter and shaping down, Raj says, “the trick to a crispy dosa is a little oil or ghee.” Here are Raj’s instructions. STEP 1: Ladle and Spread Be sure the dosa batter is free of lumps. In the center of a hot pan, working quickly but evenly, add a ladleful of batter (start with? cup for a 12-inch pan). Starting in the center,…

Make a Dreamy Dosa

The Tsotsil Maya call themselves the people of the corn. It grows readily in their home, in the foggy cloud forests of Chiapas in southern Mexico, the lush highlands in which their ancestors grew the grain for thousands of years before the first Europeans arrived. According to Mayan creation beliefs, humans were made from corn itself—white corn for men, yellow for women. Earlier this year, I visited a group of Tsotsil, far from their rural homeland, in the central city of Puebla, 65 miles southeast of Mexico City. They are an indigenous people who still speak their own language and maintain much of their rural way of life, but have come north temporarily with their families to work, perhaps to help pay medical bills or build a small cement-block house…

GIORGIA GOGGI STOOD WEARING RUBBER BOOTS AND HOLDING A BLUE-HANDLED SERRATED BUTTER KNIFE. AS THE 28-YEAR-OLD COOK BEGAN SHIMMYING SIDEWAYS UP AND DOWN HER GARDEN ROWS LIKE A HUMAN HARMONICA, HACKING FATTENED VEGETABLES OFF THEIR STEMS, FARM BASKETS BEGAN TO FILL UP: RED BEETS THE SIZE OF BOCCE BALLS; SAVOY CABBAGES WITH LEAVES FANNED OUT IN CRINKLY ORBITS; SPINDLY, LIME-COLORED PYRAMIDS OF BROCCOLI ROMANESCO; BULBOUS ARTICHOKES WITH DEEP-PURPLE PETALS. I WAS PERCHED ON THE GARDEN’S WALL, TRYING TO SAVE MY WHITE SNEAKERS FROM THE RED DIRT, WHICH LOOKED AS IF IODINE HAD SEEPED INTO IT AND HELD THERE. Goggi is the cook at Masseria Moroseta, a whitewashed guesthouse in Ostuni that opened two years ago. A coastal village in Puglia, Ostuni is known by locals and tourists as la città…

The New Cooking of Puglia

Marinated Anchovies with Candied Citrus, Pickled Raisins, and Chile SERVES 4–6 Active: 15 min. Total: 30 min. Chef Giorgia Goggi, a self-proclaimed anchovy lover, marinates her own fillets and sundries raisins from local grapes to make this delicate sweet-sour dish. Store-bought marinated anchovies work perfectly well, and when they’re soaked in the dish’s pickling liquid, even grocery-store raisins will take on a juicy plumpness. 3 Tbsp. dry white wine3 Tbsp. white wine vinegar½ very small red onion, such as cipollini, thinly sliced (½ oz.)¼ cup raisins, golden, brown, or a mix10 sage leaves1 garlic clove, smashed1 Calabrian or red Thai chile, very thinly sliced1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. fresh lemon juice (from about ½ a medium lemon)Kosher salt4 oz. marinated white anchovy fillets2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil2 tsp. finely sliced…

The New Cooking of Puglia

Queens of the Country

MY SISTER-IN-LAW SARAH AND I ARE WALKING THROUGH the art nouveau district of Latvia’s capital, Riga—though, more correctly, you might say we are wobbling, having just toasted our arrival with many glasses of Riga Balzams, the country’s famous tar-black botanical digestif. Its bitterness feels like a properly dour Eastern European tempering to the bald beauty of this city. Riga is ancient with big modern ambitions, full of manicured flower beds, a perfectly restored Old Town, vendors who sell amber and Latvian runes and thick woolen mittens year-round, and particularly vicious cobblestones. As the stones strain the straps of my sandals, a woman in swank culottes and high-heeled booties, carrying a huge bouquet of freesia, passes us like we’re standing still. In fact, every third person on the sidewalk carries a…

Queens of the Country

FATTY BACON AND ONION BUNS (Speķa Pīrāgi)

MAKES 20 Active: 1 hr. 10 min. Total: 2 hr. 45 min. When made with properly fatty bacon, the filling in these rustic buns melts into an irresistible fondant of smoked pork and onions, each one indistinguishable from the other. To replicate the rolling, radiant heat from the traditional Latvian cepeškrāsns (wood-fired ovens) that give these buns their burnished tops, bake in a very hot oven for the first several minutes of baking. 1 cup heavy cream, at room temperature1 Tbsp. plus 2½ tsp. sugar1¼ tsp. instant (not active dry) yeast3 large eggs, divided3¾ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting1¼ tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste6 oz. fatty bacon, cut into ¼-inch pieces1 medium yellow onion (8 oz.), diced (¾ cup)Freshly ground black pepperLard or butter, for greasing…

FATTY BACON AND ONION BUNS (Speķa Pīrāgi)

CUCUMBER AND RADISH SALAD WITH FRESH CHEESE

SERVES 4 Active: 20 min. Total: 4 hr. 30 min. This simple garden salad sits on a milky bed of crumbled biezpiens, a soft, fresh cow’s-milk cheese omnipresent throughout Latvia. This recipe details how to make your own, but in its place you can substitute a well-drained ricotta or crumbled queso fresco. 4 cups whole milk2¼ tsp. kosher salt, divided3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice1 kirby cucumber (8 oz.)7 large round radishes (7 oz.)1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. distilled white vinegar1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzlingFreshly ground black pepper¼ cup thinly sliced scallion (2 small scallions)2 Tbsp. finely chopped dill1 Tbsp. heavy cream, for drizzling 1 At least 4 hours or up to 12 hours before you plan to serve the salad, make the biezpiens: In a heavy,…

CUCUMBER AND RADISH SALAD WITH FRESH CHEESE

GARLIC RYE CROUTONS

MAKES 2 CUPS; Active: 15 min. Total: 30 min. Slathered in oil, baked until crisp, then tossed with a potent quantity of raw garlic, these rye croutons ride sidecar to every soup in Latvia. If you can’t get a loaf of rupjmaize, the sweet-sour Latvian bread, use the darkest loaf of rye bread you can find. 8 oz. 100 percent rye sourdough bread (such as Latvian rupjmaize), cut into 2-inch chunks½ cup vegetable oilKosher saltFreshly ground black pepper2 Tbsp. bacon fat3 large garlic cloves, minced (1 Tbsp.)1 Tbsp. thinly sliced chives 1 Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, toss the bread with the vegetable oil until evenly saturated and season lightly with salt and pepper. Transfer to a large, rimmed baking sheet (no need to clean out…

HOT BEET SOUP WITH PORK BELLY (Bietes Zupa)

SERVES 8–10 Active: 1 hr. 30 min. Total: 4 hr. 15 min. The rich, beet-infused pork broth of this soup is briny, with tangy vegetables floating throughout. For the fullest flavor, marinate the beets in the vinaigrette well ahead of time. 1 lb. skinned pork belly2 Tbsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste1 lb. meaty pork bones (such as neck or hock)3 bay leaves1½ lb. red beets (2 large)1 tsp. sugar6 Tbsp. white or cider vinegar, divided¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes (2 large)2 Tbsp. unsalted butter3 garlic cloves, minced2 cups coarsely grated carrot (from about 4 large, peeled carrots)½ cup sliced chives¼ cup chopped fresh dill4 peeled, chopped hard-boiled eggs, for topping (optional) 1 Rub the pork belly with 1 tablespoon of salt and…

HOT BEET SOUP WITH PORK BELLY (Bietes Zupa)

LATVIAN BRAIDED BIRTHDAY CAKE (Klingeris)

SERVES 18–20 Active: 55 min. Total: 3 hr. 35 min. Every family seems to have its own recipe for this traditional yeasted birthday cake. Ruta Gailīte’s uses dough similar to brioche, but relies on cream instead of butter for its richness. With the addition of plump dried fruit and ground cardamom and cinnamon, it makes a perfect breakfast cake too. 2 cups light cream, at room temperature6 Tbsp. plus ¾ cup sugar, divided2½ tsp. instant (not active dry) yeast5 large eggs (divided)7 ⅓ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting1 Tbsp. kosher salt1½ lb. assorted dried fruit (prunes, tart cherries, or raisins)1¾ oz. candied ginger, finely chopped (⅓ cup)Butter or lard, for greasing1½ tsp. ground cinnamon1 tsp. ground cardamom1⅔ cup sweetened condensed milkPowdered sugar, for dusting 1 In a very…

LATVIAN BRAIDED BIRTHDAY CAKE (Klingeris)

Along the winding streets of La Paz, through a hidden alleyway and down a dim market corridor, a butcher wields a cleaver, bringing it swiftly down upon a glistening slab of scarlet beef. Another butcher lifts a swollen aubergine heart, nestling it carefully atop a heap of other hearts. Yet another lays medallions of blushing pink pork along a stall window as if arranging gemstones at a jeweler’s counter. A fourth smiles warmly through a curtain of mottled sausages, her teeth enrobed in gold, a bowler hat tilted back upon the crown of her head. These carnicerías are part of the patchwork of vendors who run the stalls at Mercado Rodriguez, La Paz’s central food market. A city of dizzying altitude (12,000 feet, more than twice as high as Denver)…

A name for indigenous Bolivian women (altered from the Spanish chola, which carries a derogatory connotation), cholitas are today highly visible on the streets of El Alto and La Paz. Many wear bowler hats (whose style, brand, and adornment with jewelry or brooches often indicate economic status), tiered skirts, long braids, and many-colored shawls, which they use to carry children or packages. Some women opt to have their teeth enrobed in or replaced with gold, a trend that denotes wealth. Cholitas, who were once considered lower-class citizens and not even allowed to occupy some squares and gathering places, now hold public office, own businesses, perform in their own wrestling league, and host radio and television shows. Though his clench on power has drawn criticism and concern, President Evo Morales—the first…

Market Foods of La Paz

Salteñas are the essential Bolivian breakfast pastry, consisting of a subtly sweet dough filled with saucy meat, vegetables, and sometimes egg, sealed with a braid, and baked. Pasteles de queso are fluffy pockets of sweet fried dough filled with squeaky white cheese and dusted with powdered sugar. They’re often paired with api morado, a hot, spiced drink made from purple corn. The chola, La Paz and El Alto’s traditional sandwich (named for the country’s indigenous women, who often serve them), is a pile of soft and crackly roasted pork shoulder, pickled onions and carrots, and ají chile sauce on a bun. Ocas, Andean tubers that look like wrinkled fingers and taste like a sour potato (at right), are red, yellow, or sometimes a tie-dyed peachy pink. They’re one of hundreds…

Market Foods of La Paz

Gathering THE Roots

It’s damp and chilly outside, but it’s toasty in Wendie Poitras’ kitchen, where rendered pork skins sizzle and pop in a cast-iron pan. Poitras—a teacher and artist who has become a vocal advocate along with scholars and activists to help define and commemorate African Nova Scotian culture—is cooking traditional dishes for a few friends and relatives. She’ll eventually add the pork to boiled potatoes and flaked salt cod. Yellow-eyed beans bake for hours to a deep brown, the ham hock in the center of the pot falling softly apart. Oxtails swim in a rich sauce next to a pot of rice and beans and a pan of cornbread. This is Nova Scotia, a vaguely lobster-shaped peninsula that juts, with its surrounding islands, east out into the Atlantic, one time zone…

Gathering THE Roots

1 Holy Cannoli Flexible, lightweight molds produce heavenly shells ACCORDING TO CHEF GIORGIA GOGGI of “The Newcomer” (p. 60), the key to crisp and bubbly cannoli shells is time (the dough needs at least two days in the fridge to age, ideally five). And a light, quick-cooling tube can help you cook cannoli more evenly and avoid flavor-altering scorches from the bottom of the pan. We recommend flexible stainless-steel tube forms like these; each piece has a seam down the center with two overlapping edges. Simply pinch the sides together to slip the tube out from inside the cooked shells without shattering them. It also allows the dough enough buoyancy to keep it from sinking to the bottom of the pot. That’s amore. (about $10 for 12; amazon.com) —Kat Craddock…

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