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23 Articles

Resilience is a word that’s frequently misused or misunderstood these days. Let’s throw out the idea of adopting a stiff upper lip in times of adversity. More helpful thinking is that resilience can be built through kindness and encouragement, by striving to create an atmosphere in which we can all do well, developing others and offering training in managing the stress we all face. Successful restaurants do this brilliantly. By supporting people of all skills, backgrounds, experience and personalities, teams function at their best and diners get a warmer experience. And this year, says Tony Naylor (page 60), despite the challenges we continue to face, we’ve seen the hospitality industry ‘roar back’. New openings and ever-more imaginative dishes keep our vibrant and diverse restaurant scene interesting, while established chefs and…

NOVEMBER inspiration

CRAVING This glorious next-level hotpot – loaded with succulent lamb neck fillet and onions in a rich gravy, topped with slivers of crispy Pink Fir potato – from Brixton bistro Bottle + Rye is ideal for a family Sunday lunch. Turn over to try the recipe and follow our favourite eating-out trends using the #Ocraving hashtag on Instagram Bottle + Rye’s braised lamb boulangère Made using small iron croque pots at the restaurant, this recipe uses one large dish which is perfect for a family Sunday lunch. If you do want to make into individual portions, as pictured, you will need fewer potatoes and a shorter cooking time. SERVES 8 | PREP 35 MINS COOK 2 HRS 50 MINS MORE EFFORT | LC 500g lamb neck fillet, trimmed1 whole garlic…

NOVEMBER inspiration

Cook with the season

in season this month brussels sprouts celeriac celery clementines hazelnuts pears pork pumpkins watercress Pork belly with beans and pistou If the crackling needs a little extra pop at the end then lift the pork out of the beans and put onto a baking tray. Turn the oven back up to 220C/200C fan/gas 7 and roast for another 15-20 mins or until the crackling is crisp. SERVES 4 | PREP 25 MINS PLUS OVERNIGHT SOAKING AND MARINATING | COOK 4 HRS | EASY 200g dried cannellini beans 8 garlic cloves2 bay leaves1kg pork belly, skin scored 4 long shallots, halved 1 tbsp olive oil800ml chicken stock2 tsp fennel seeds 1 lemon, sliced PISTOU 1 garlic clove a small bunch of basil leaves2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 The night before…

Cook with the season

The comfort zone

Zorawar Kalra, Farzi Café Belonging to a Punjabi family, homemade goat curry and rice was always the highlight for Sundays. It was a meal that, when growing up, we always looked forward to. Surprisingly, even now, after having visited so many restaurants around the world and eaten so many different cuisines, this is the very definition of comfort for me. It’s not overly spiced but a very comforting curry that’s more like a stew with a thinner consistency. It’s perfect served with homemade raita and pickles. Passed on from generation to generation, even my children find it extremely comforting. Whenever we have a hard time getting them to eat food, this is the one thing we know they will consider eating if served. farzilondon.com Punjabi mutton curry SERVES 4 |…

The comfort zone

Take three jars

What is effortless ? Easy on the eye and simple to make, thanks to shop-bought ingredients and no fiddly techniques. These recipes can be made ahead or require 30 mins or fewer of prep – they’re go-to ideas for entertaining special guests. effortless buys You’ll find the finest anchovies, ready-to-use lentils and truffle honey all on shop.olivemagazine.com. Anchovies with toast and butter SERVES 2 AS A STARTER | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 5 MINS | EASY This is an easy starter to prep ahead. Choose a bread with a slightly sour flavour such as sourdough to get a good contrast between it and the salty anchovies, sweet butter and crisp shallot. Anchovies vary in quality and you want a nice firm variety with a good flavour for this. Toast…

Take three jars

Everyday healthy

Look out for the following high fibrehigh proteinlow callow fatlow saltlow sugarnourish Craving something nutritious? Look out for the new Nourish tag on our healthy recipes. We’ll also spotlight high fibre, high protein, low cal, low fat, low salt, and low sugar. For more information, go to olivemagazine.com/olive-nourish (ingredients listed as serving suggestions are not included in the nutritional analysis). Vietnamese sticky tofu bun cha SERVES 4 | PREP 25 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY | 600g firm tofu, drained150g dried rice vermicelli or glass noodles 2 tbsp sesame oil 2 carrots, peeled and julienned2 Little Gem lettuces or 1 Romaine lettuce, finely shredded4 spring onions, finely slicedsmall bunch of coriander or thai basil, roughly chopped2 handfuls of mint leaves, roughly chopped2 tsp soft light brown sugar1 garlic…

Everyday healthy

3 ways with Gunpowder spice

3 ways with 1 Dhal with fried okra SERVES 4 AS A SIDE | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 40 MINS EASY | V GF 200g red lentils, rinsed and drained2 fat slices of ginger ½ tsp ground turmeric1 large tomato, grated on a coarse grater200g okra1 tsp Cooks’ Ingredients Gunpowder Spice Blend 3 tbsp ghee or vegetable oil4 tbsp thick natural yogurt (optional)roti to serve 1 Tip the lentils into a pan with 750ml of water and bring to a simmer. Skim off any scum then add the ginger, turmeric and tomato. Cook for 30 mins until the lentils have broken down but the mixture is still soupy rather than thick. Season well. Fish out the ginger and discard. 2 Trim the ends off the okra and then cut…

3 ways with Gunpowder spice

cook a classic Bread and butter pudding

SERVES 4-6 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS 1 HR SOAKING | COOK 45 MINS | EASY | ✱ 100g unsalted butter, softened,plus extra for the dish450ml whole milk450ml double cream6 egg yolks75g golden caster sugar1 tsp vanilla bean paste8 slices stale bread75g sultanas3 tbsp demerara sugarice cream or custard, to serve 1 Butter a 20cm x 30cm baking dish. Pour the milk and cream into a pan and bring gently to just below a simmer. Meanwhile, put the egg yolks, caster sugar and vanilla into a bowl, and whisk until combined. Pour a little of the milk and cream mixture into the bowl of egg yolks and whisk well, then pour in the remaining cream and milk in a steady stream while whisking. 2 Butter the bread generously, then arrange…

cook a classic Bread and butter pudding

eat in, eat out Maria G’s

Tucked away within a sleek new housing development in Kensington, Maria G’s is testament to chef Robin Gill’s (pictured, left) love of Italy. He and executive chef Aaron Potter have created a menu of classics: perfectly cooked fish, such as line-caught pollock and sea bass crudo; pasta made daily; and delicate touches, such as freshly picked herbs in bar snacks like sage and anchovy fritti (p57). All this, plus expertly made cocktails. Look out for the new Maria G’s – a lovely spot by the Thames, with an outdoor terrace featuring a retractable roof – opening in Fulham in November. Its menu will include a special shellfish platter and sharing pans of pasta for the whole table. mariags.co.uk MENU DECODER Amalfi lemons Bigger, juicier and more fragrant than your average…

eat in, eat out Maria G’s

pro vs punter Block Soho

Block Soho is a new kid on the block recently opening on the intimate St Anne’s Court in the heart of Soho. Billed as a “reimagined chophouse for a new generation”, there is unsurprisingly a focus on quality cuts of meat cooked over coal. However, equal attention has been paid to the seafood and shellfish offerings. Expect dishes such as smoked pulled pork with sourdough toast and apple gravy, swordfish chop with samphire butter and fresh shellfish platters, as well as classic steaks sold by weight. There will also be Sunday roasts and a breakfast menu with a “hangover” burger, as well as a daily “Cocktails & Croquettes” happy hour. With its industrial décor, an abundant cocktail menu and a wine list from small producers, Block Soho is looking to…

pro vs punter Block Soho

2022: the great restaurant revival

This was the year when the restaurant scene roared back after two years of disruption. To celebrate, here is O’s year in review: the trends, dishes and restaurants we loved, and the people making them happen. Whatever the world throws at it, hospitality endures. Mexican wave At London’s unique KOL (British ingredients, Mexican flavours; kolrestaurant.com) and Cavita (cavitarestaurant.com) or Durham’s La Mesa (lamesadurham.com), not to mention street food spots such as Borough’s Tacos Padre (Instagram @tacospadre) or Enrique Martinez’s Manchester classic Pancho’s Burrito (panchosburritos.co.uk), our Mexican food crush is getting serious. Delicious destinations UK cooking talent is increasingly dispersed, as demonstrated by the rise of south Somerset: home of foodie Bruton and acclaimed Osip (osiprestaurant.com), Margot Henderson’s The Three Horseshoes (thethreehorseshoesbatcombe.co.uk) and Larry’s spin-off Holm in South Petherton (holmsomerset.co.uk). Barry,…

2022: the great restaurant revival

Pairing wines to soothe the soul

wine Long, dark nights and chilly weather make us all crave comfort, and if we can match our favourite food with a wine we know we love, so much the better. Robust, meaty dishes cry out for full-bodied reds, whether it’s an Argentinian malbec with steak and chips, or a classic rioja with cottage pie or a chorizo stew. If you prefer something lighter, such as pinot noir or gamay, sausage and mash or mushroom risotto make very friendly partners, as do earthy veggie dishes, especially if they contain lentils. Medium-bodied Italian reds – chianti, montepulciano d’Abruzzo or perhaps something punchy from Puglia – are no-brainers with pizza. Think less about the main ingredients and more about the way they’re cooked when you’re pairing wine with food. Fish when it’s…

Pairing wines to soothe the soul

Bartender tip: Will Rogers, SOMA This sleek subterranean bar on Soho’s Denman Street lies underneath sister restaurant Kricket. Inside, expect pared-back, polished cocktails created by the restaurant’s head of beverage, Will Rogers, served in slinky minimalist surrounds with stainless steel bar, indigo walls and walnut furnishings. What to order: The chaat – mezcal, tequila, chaat masala, kumquat and a moreish gooseberry salt – is winningly clean, zesty and saline. somasoho.com Will’s best cocktail tip: Making a decent cocktail at home needn’t be complicated. One crowd-pleaser is a spicy tommy’s margarita – and to get that heat in your drink is seriously easy. Just grab a bottle of your favourite tequila, or mezcal, take one fresh chilli, split it down the middle and drop it into the bottle and leave overnight.…

cook like a local Kolkata

Kolkata, often referred to as the City of Joy, is situated in north-east India, on the eastern bank of the Hoogli River. Bengal’s cuisine – primarily fish and rice because of its geographical location in the Ganges Delta valley – has over centuries been imprinted with different cultures, social rituals, religious beliefs and colonising countries. Tea was once only exported from India but the British introduced it as a hot drink. Kolkata is a tea-drinking city, with masala tea readily available on street corners and railway stations, served by the chaiwalas. Different traditions and rituals had an impact on the food of Kolkata. Traditionally widows were not allowed to eat food that would heat up the body, so started cooking dishes without garlic, onions or ginger. During Puja, which is…

cook like a local Kolkata

10 things I love about Singapore

Chef Abby Lee honed her skills growing up in her family’s bakeries in Singapore and Malaysia, before moving to Italy to cook at Michelin-starred Pashà Ristorante. She now runs her own restaurant, Mambow, previously in London’s Spitalfields and now in Peckham. Her menu places emphasis on locally sourced, seasonal and sustainable produce in recipes taken from her roots in Malaysia that reflect the diverse cultural influence of the country’s cuisine. mambow.co.uk 1 You must finish your food or everything must go One thing is for certain, we do not waste food. Whether you’re at a family gathering or eating out, your elders will be making sure you have eaten all your food. When there are leftovers we tend to turn them in to another dish. For example, roast duck…

10 things I love about Singapore

kitchens to covet Naturally inspired

I’m a registered nutritionist and food writer living in a Georgian rectory in the beautiful Dartmoor National Park with my husband and two dogs, Toast and Honey. We moved here just over 10 years ago after our original hunt for a home by the sea came to a dead end. When we moved to the house, we were determined to relocate the kitchen, the room we spend most of our time in, from its dark interior room to the beautiful, bright conservatory that had been installed by previous owners. The wall-to-ceiling glass on almost three sides of this room envelopes you in the landscape and provides great levels of natural light all through the year. The rectangular shape allows for far-reaching views across the garden to the moorland beyond. We…

kitchens to covet Naturally inspired

bolthole Atlanta House

What makes it unique A family-owned and run business, Atlanta House is one of three discrete properties ideally situated opposite Trevone Bay beach, a pretty spot to go rockpooling and crabbing. The house is as comfortable as it is luxe, with a huge, bright, well-equipped kitchen, dining space for up to 10 and a living room with open fire. The owners are passionate about promoting local businesses and happy to share recommendations for nearby places to visit, shop and eat. On the menu Take a short drive to Padstow Kitchen Garden to stock up on seasonal veg, meat and dairy (padstowkitchengarden.co.uk). Farmer and chef Ross Geach also runs regular polytunnel pop-ups that sell out fast, and offers cooking lessons centred around a Big Green Egg barbecue, often featuring pork from…

bolthole
Atlanta
House

weekend menu Smoky potatoes This recipe has been adapted to cook on a stove but if you want to do it the Caia way, get your BBQ nice and hot using smoked wood chips, add your potatoes to the top shelf of the grill, close and leave the potatoes to get some char, absorbing the smoky flavours. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER | PREP 10 MINS COOK 1 HR 10 MINS | EASY 3 garlic bulbs4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil75g white miso350g new potatoes, larger ones halved560g jar of good-quality small white beans, drained and rinsed30g parmesan, grated 1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Cut the tops off the garlic bulbs, just exposing the cloves inside, making it easier to squeeze them out later. Cut a large piece…

kitchen therapy Black cake

SERVES 16 | PREP 35 MINS PLUS 2 HRS SOAKING | COOK 2 HRS | MORE EFFORT | ✱ FRUITS175g currants 175g raisins100g prunes50g glacé cherries250ml port 200ml dark rum BROWNING3 tbsp dark brown sugar 3 tbsp portCAKE225g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for the tin100g light brown sugar 125g dark brown sugar5 eggs1 lime, zested1 orange, zested½ lemon, zested2 tsp vanilla extract1 tsp almond extract150g plain flour1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp ground allspice ½ tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground ginger ½ tsp ground nutmeg70ml port 70ml dark rum 1 Put the dried fruits and port in a wide pan over a medium heat. Bring to a gentle boil then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 mins, stirring occasionally, until the wine has reduced and the fruit…

kitchen therapy Black cake

at home with Rosie Birkett

In the burnished depths of the end of autumn, the kitchen becomes my retreat: a place I long to get back to by the end of a frosty walk or rainy dash for errands. While just a matter of months ago, its doors were flung open to welcome the breeze and sunshine – its oven and hobs neglected in favour of a barbecue or picnic blanket – now it’s the glowing hearth of the house, its windows fugged up with steam, its creaky wooden door failing to contain the sumptuous smells wafting from simmering pots. This time of year means comfort food and, for me, there’s nothing more comforting than mushrooms on toast, a dish that has its roots in a very special, sepia-tinged memory from my childhood. There was…

at home with Rosie Birkett

Wild mushrooms and horseradish labneh on toast

SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS STRAINING | COOK 5 MINS EASY | V LABNEH500g full-fat natural yogurt squeeze of lemon juice, plus extra to taste handful of dill, leaves picked and finely chopped1-2 tsp hot creamed horseradishMUSHROOMS1 tsp rapeseed oil300g mixed mushrooms (wild, or a mixture of chestnut,oyster, shiitake and portobello), picked through and cleaned20g unsalted butter 1 garlic clove, crushed1 tsp finely chopped tarragon or flat-leaf parsley leaves,plus extra to garnishTO SERVE2 thick slices of sourdough, toasted 1 To make the labneh, combine the yogurt and 1/2 tsp of salt with a squeeze of lemon juice in a bowl, and mix well. Line a sieve with clean muslin, a dish cloth or a few sheets of kitchen paper, and set over a separate bowl. Spoon in the…

Wild mushrooms and horseradish labneh on toast

on the podcast Perfect wok cooking

relax and listen The wok clock This is my version of mise en place, which we use in the cookery school. When you’re cooking at home, it would be something like a large, round plate that you can turn into a ‘clock’, with all your prepared ingredients laid out in a circle. So, you start at 12 o’clock with your first ingredient, then as you add each one to the wok, you follow your ingredients clockwise all the way round, with perhaps the sauce, rice or noodles in the middle – basically whatever is going to go in last. If you follow the clock, you never get confused about what goes in next. I’m a strong believer in preparing your food before you start cooking, unless it’s something that’s really,…

on the podcast Perfect wok cooking

Today’s special Salted caramel popcorn soufflés

Sweet, salty and with bitter notes of caramel and the satisfying crunch of popcorn, the base of these soufflés is made from a velvety smooth rice purée instead of crème pâtissière – this adds stability, meaning they can be fully assembled a few hours ahead of cooking. You will need four soufflé moulds for this recipe. SERVES 4 | PREP 30 MINS COOK 2 HRS 10 MINS | MORE EFFORT SOUFFLÉS125ml whole milk125ml double cream105g caster sugar 25g pudding rice1 vanilla pod, split75g unsalted butter, softened6 egg whites (about 220-240g total)]20g popcorn (sweet or sweet and salty)SALTED CARAMEL SAUCE100g caster sugar, plus 75g for the ramekins45g salted butter, cut into pieces60ml double cream½ tsp sea salt 1 Heat the oven to 140C/120C fan/gas 1 and put four 9.5cm x 5cm…

Today’s special Salted caramel popcorn soufflés

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