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40 Articles

Welcome to JULY

We Brits have always been good at eating on the hoof – we invented sandwiches and pasties, for goodness sake – but over the past few years we’ve really been upping the ante in our hand-held food options. Street food has never been better, more authentic or innovative, more diverse or available. And so, ’tis the season to get street smart, whether that means exploring the shacks serving lobster rolls on the beaches of Devon or the sheds delivering vegetable lollies to the happy revellers at Camp Bestival in Dorset. It could also mean letting yourself be tempted by the truck handing out fried buttermilk chicken burgers in Edinburgh, or even making your own. We have all the bases covered in this issue. How do you like the look of…

Welcome to JULY

Buffalo dog 30 MINUTES I MAKES 41 EASY Twisted toppings for hot dogs are all the rage on street food stalls and in trendy restaurants. We took the best flavourings from buffalo chicken wings to add to our dog. celery 1 stick, cut into tiny dice red onion ½, cut into tiny dice caster sugar a pinch white wine vinegar 1 tsp butter 2 tbsp of melted hot sauce such as Frank's hot dog buns 4 jumbo hot dogs 4 tomato ketchup 4 tbsp BLUE CHEESE SAUCE roquefort 50g, crumbled soured cream 75g mayonnaise 1 tbsp DEEP-FRIED PICKLED JALAPENOS plain flour 25g cornflour 7g, plus extra to dust hot smoked paprika ¼ tsp ice-cold soda water oil for frying sliced pickled jalapeños 2 tbsp, drained and dried on kitchen paper…

FOOD DIRECTOR’S SHOPPING BASKET Janine Ratcliffe’s favourite new products I love a clever cheat, and this mix from top London restaurant St John is a superior one. It’s Fergus Henderson’s favourite rarebit recipe ready for you to spread on hot toast and grill until bubbling. You could also use it to top fillets of smoked haddock, as a baked spud filling, or as the base of a cheesy, pickley flatbread as we’ve done here. ocado.com and rarebitmix.com , 250g/£4.99 TREND SPOT SHELL OUT! Oysters have come back onto menus with gusto recently. No longer are these brackish bivalve beauties the preserve of the rich, only to be enjoyed with fizz and fuss, chefs are now sharing them with us all year round. Search menus for the different varieties available…

TRY THE TREND YOURSELF...

Decatur’s Tom Browne has been selling buttery, piquant barbecued oysters at Druid Street Market in Bermondsey for several years, as well as at his temporary home in Dalston. We’re big fans of his soulful Southern cooking – these are made with a whipped garlic and pecorino butter, and finished with parsley, cajun spices and hot sauce. @DecaturLondon London seafood merchants, Wright Bros Ltd (who have their own sustainable oyster farm on the Helford River in Cornwall) serve an assortment of oysters (up to 15) from across the UK and France in a variety of ways at their five London restaurants. Try the Rockefeller, which is grilled with a spinach and herb butter. thewrightbrothers.co.uk During the summer, shucking specialists The Oystermen barbecue Maldon oysters – “not too big, with soft meat”…

TRY THE TREND YOURSELF...

Valrhona Orelys These caramelised white chocolate and Mauritian dark muscovado sugar tablets are meant for cooking, but we can’t resist melting them straight on our tongues or over ice cream for a posh Caramac hit. £48.68/3kg, valrhona-chocolate.com Maître Choux Paris Brest éclair If you happen to live near South Kensington, you’re in for a treat with this new praline cream and crunchy nougatine-filled choux pastry bun topped with hazelnut praline cream and nougatine biscuit. £5.80 per éclair, Maître Choux South Kensington, London SW7 The Collective Dairy strawberry and mascarpone yogurt The Collective Dairy has done it again! We love this summery flavour with balsamic-soaked strawberry compote cut through rich, creamy yogurt. Perfect as an after-dinner treat. £2/450g, Waitrose Brindisa smoked Catalan almonds These indulgent almonds have a subtle wood smoke…

Add an intense umami hit to Malaysian sambal (chilli paste) with tiny sun-dried shrimp. Combine the dried shrimp with red chillies, shallots, garlic, palm sugar and sea salt, whizz into a paste using a food processor, then sauté in hot oil for 5 minutes until aromatic. The peppery, citrus flavour of these narrow, pointed laksa leaves is a crucial component of Penang-style asam laksa, giving the noodle broth its distinct spicy and tangy kick. The medley of flavours from lemongrass, galangal, turmeric and red chilli forms the core of many Malaysian and Nyonya (Malay-Chinese) spice pastes. Rich, dark palm sugar from the state of Malacca, gula malacca has a beautiful coconut and caramel flavour. Sold in round blocks, it can be dissolved in simmering water and reduced to form a…

P-P-P-PICK UP A PICNIC PACK Pineapple picnic pack. Make sure you’ve got the trendiest picnic in the field with this funky pineapple pack. All you need for a pretty picnic, including paper napkins, plates and cups and plastic cutlery. £4, Flying Tiger KEEP IT CLEAN Usva napkins. These delicate linen napkins are as chic as they are practical – and will complement most neutral table schemes. £10 each, skandium.com THE DAILY GRIND Tala wooden pepper mills. We love this combo of beechwood and matte pastel colours. Plus, you can be sure they’ll last – Tala have been in the business since 1899! £22.50, Ocado KEEP IT IN CHECK Checked storage tin. Pop baked goods into these contemporary tins for safe keeping; hungry housemates, kids and partners won’t even know they’re…

SUMMER SUPERMARKET AWARDS 2017: the winners!

Look out for this winning sticker on the products in stores near you. It’s the Olive mark of excellence! The Olive team chose 23 categories to showcase products that will enhance a summer barbecue or picnic. The supermarkets selected the products they wanted to put forward in each category (we only allowed them one entry per category, so they had to choose carefully). Our expert panel of Olive judges tasted them blind, and rated each individually. Some categories had so many great entries to choose from, we awarded joint winners or highly commended. 1 BEST BBQ SHOW-OFF PRODUCT Winner: Asda oak-smoked beef rib with BBQ sauce. £5/588g A clear winner for its impressive show-off factor, it really delivers on flavour with a well-balanced smoke and a sharp, not-too-sweet BBQ…

SUMMER SUPERMARKET AWARDS 2017: the winners!

Lemon and mint marinated courgettes 25 MINUTES + MARINATING SERVES 4 AS A SIDE | EASY olive oil lemons 2, zested and juiced garlic 2 cloves, bruised sea salt baby courgettes 16, halved lengthways mint a small bunch, shredded • Whisk 4 tbsp olive oil with the lemon juice, zest and bruised garlic cloves. Season with salt and pour into the bottom of a large baking dish. • Toss the courgettes with a little more oil. Heat a griddle to high. Add the courgettes cut-side down and griddle for 4-5 minutes until really chargrilled. Turn over and griddle for another couple of minutes, then lay them cut-side down in the marinade. Repeat until you’ve griddled all the courgettes. Leave to marinate at room temperature for 1 hour. • To serve,…

Chicken 65 50 MINUTES + MARINATING TIME | SERVES 4 | EASY There are many theories about how this dish gets its great name, one of which suggests it was invented in 1965, another that it originally contained 65 types of chilli. Either way, it’s a deliciously fiery Indian snack that’s great with a cold beer. cumin seeds 1 tbsp coriander seeds 1 tbsp skinless, boneless chicken thighs 500g, cut into bite-sized pieces natural yogurt 4 tbsp rice flour 3 tsp red wine vinegar 2 tsp ginger 3cm piece, finely grated garlic 3 cloves, crushed paprika 2 tsp dried chilli flakes 1 tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp vegetable oil red chillies 2, thinly sliced curry leaves a handful red onion ½, thinly sliced to serve coriander chopped to make 2…

Strawberry margarita slushies 15 MINUTES + FREEsING | MAKES 8 | EASY strawberries 500g, as ripe as possible, stalks removed tequila 240ml Cointreau or Grand Marnier 120ml sugar syrup 4 tbsp limes 2, juiced, plus frozen slices to serve • The day before serving, tip all of the ingredients into a freezer-proof box, stir, and freeze overnight. • To make the slushies, tip everything into a liquidiser or food processor and whizz until smooth. • Divide the margarita mix between glasses and add a frozen lime slice to serve. Eton mess cheesecake 30 MINUTES + CHILLING | SERVES 10 | EASY Hobnobs 200g unsalted butter 50g, melted white chocolate 200g, roughly chopped double cream 200ml full-fat soft cheese 200g mascarpone 150g tub raspberries 200g ETON MESS TOPPING double cream…

CIDER CAN CHICKEN 2 HOURS + MARINATING | SERVES 4 | EASY | chicken 1 medium (around 1.5kg) cider 1 x 440ml can MARINADE sea salt 1 tbsp dark brown sugar 1 tbsp smoked paprika 1 tbsp dried thyme 1 tsp chilli flakes 1 tsp mustard powder 1 tsp garlic granules ½ tsp CHIMICHURRI shallot 1, finely chopped flat-leaf parsley a bunch, finely chopped dried oregano 1 tbsp chilli flakes 1 tsp garlic 1 clove, finely chopped cider vinegar 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 3 tbsp • Using a sharp knife, remove the ends of the drumsticks or ‘ankles’ of the chicken as these may get stuck in the grill of the barbecue. In a bowl, mix all the marinade ingredients. Rub all over the chicken, inside and out, and…

Bathing beauties

Chermoula Put the juice of a lemon, 1 tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp smoked paprika, a small bunch of coriander, 1 chopped red chilli and 2 chopped garlic cloves in a food processor and whizz, adding enough olive oil to make a marinade (about 4-6 tbsp). Use to marinate firm fish like tuna or salmon, or veg, before grilling. Wholegrain mustard Mix 3 tbsp grain mustard, juice of 1 lemon, 2 tbsp olive oil, 1 tbsp honey, 1 tbsp white wine vinegar and 1 tsp thyme leaves. Use to marinate steaks or veg. Asian chilli Mix 4 tbsp sriracha, a chopped stalk of lemongrass, a grated chunk of ginger, 1 tbsp palm sugar and the juice of 2 limes in a bowl. Use to marinate salmon fillets or chicken before…

Bathing beauties

TEST KITCHEN SECRETS

SPRAYING THE MEAT REGULARLY WILL HELP TO CREATE A STRONG ‘BARK’ When people think of British barbecue they imagine alpha males, shorts and flip-flops, burnt sausages and third-degree, vest-shaped sunburn. It doesn’t have to be this way. The barbecue is a versatile cooking tool, it’s an oven and smoker as well as a fierce grill, and I don’t think we’ve been harnessing its true potential. With a bit of planning and care, you can create something truly magical – and here’s how. Start early. Light the coals or get the gas barbecue up to temperature, and tend it. The trick with low and slow barbecuing is to keep the temperature even. Brits tend to throw a whole bag of coal with a pack of firelighters and cook when it’s raging…

TEST KITCHEN SECRETS

New potato deli salad 15 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | Charlotte potatoes 300g pastrami 100g, torn into pieces watercress 2 handfuls chives 1 tbsp of chopped DRESSING mayonnaise 2 tbsp horseradish cream 2 tbsp shallots 2, finely chopped gherkins 2 tbsp of chopped • Mix the mayo, horseradish, shallots and gherkins with 1 tsp of brine from the gherkin jar in a large bowl and season well. • Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water until tender. Drain and leave to cool for 5 minutes then cut in half lengthways and add to the dressing bowl with the pastrami. Toss to coat then pile onto watercress and sprinkle over the chives. PER SERVING 436 KCALS | FAT 28.4G | SATURATES 3G CARBS 28.6G | SUGARS 7.3G | FIBRE…

Cajun bean burgers and dairy-free slaw 30 MINUTES + CHILLING SERVES 4 | EASY | olive oil onion ½, finely diced green pepper ½, finely diced garlic 1 clove, finely chopped smoked paprika 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp garlic granules 1 tsp chilli powder ½ tsp black beans 1 tin, drained and rinsed plain flour 75g flat-leaf parsley finely chopped to make 1 tbsp ciabatta buns to serve rocket a handful, to serve PICKLED ONIONS red onions ½, sliced into thin rings white wine vinegar 1 tbsp SLAW silken tofu 50g dijon mustard 1 tsp white wine vinegar 2 tsp white cabbage ¼, finely sliced carrot 1, shredded • Heat a frying pan over a medium heat with 2 tsp of olive oil and fry the onion, green…

3 WAYS WITH Meringues

1 Chocolate-dipped meringues with cherries and boozy cream 30 MINUTES + SETTING | SERVES 4 | EASY cherries 200g, stoned cherry jam 3 tbsp cornflour 2 tsp 70% dark chocolate 100g, broken into chunks meringues 4 large whipping cream 150ml greek yogurt 2 tbsp kirsch 2 tbsp runny honey 2 tsp • Put the cherries, jam, cornflour and 3 tbsp of water into a pan, mix well and cook over a low heat until the cherries are saucy and softened, then leave to cool. • Melt the chocolate in a bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water, or in short bursts in a microwave. Allow to cool for 5 minutes, then dip in the top of the meringues. Leave to set. • Whip the cream until thickened, then…

3 WAYS WITH Meringues

FREEZER pleasers

Brown butter frangipane and nectarine tart 1 HOUR 30 MINUTES + CHILLING | SERVES 8 | EASY | * nectarines 2, sliced natural yogurt to serve BROWN BUTTER FRANGIPANE salted butter 200g golden caster sugar 200g eggs 4 plain flour 75g ground almonds 200g PASTRY plain flour 250g unsalted butter 125g, cubed lemon thyme a small bunch, leaves picked sea salt a pinch • To make the frangipane, put the butter in a small pan and cook over a medium heat, whisking all the time, until the butter browns and smells nutty, then pour into a heatproof bowl and chill, stirring reguarly, for around 1 hour, or until the consistency of soft butter. • To make the pastry, put the flour, butter, lemon thyme leaves and salt into a food…

FREEZER pleasers

SWEET AND SPICY

Hot-hot chocolate The pairing of chilli and chocolate has been documented since at least Aztec times, when South Americans would blend chocolate paste with chilli and spice. For the ultimate chocolate hit, channel your inner Aztec and blend hot milk with dark chocolate, a sprinkle of cinnamon, vanilla extract and dried chilli flakes. Serve with a cinnamon stick. Jamming with chilli Give your cheeseboard a kick by swapping traditional quince jelly for chilli jam. Replace the fruit component in a standard jam recipe with one part chopped chilli to two parts pear and enjoy with light, nutty cheeses. Warm up ice cream Add heat to vanilla ice cream with a ginger and chilli warmer. You don’t even need an ice-cream maker: take good-quality vanilla ice cream, allow it to soften…

SWEET AND SPICY

Fresh from the sea PORT ISAAC, CORNWALL Fisherman Calum Greenhalgh catches the shellfish, which he carries 100 metres from his boat, Mary D, to the café where his wife Tracey cooks it for lunch. At the top of the hill overlooking the harbour at Port Isaac, the aptly named Fresh From The Sea opened in 2010 and now attracts customers from as far afield as Australia and Canada. “We first opened thinking Tracey and I could run the place between us but now most days in the summer there are four members of staff on and an extra two people just to hand-pick the crab.” Served on locally baked bread, perhaps accompanied by a glass of Padstow Brewery beer or Cornish Camel Valley wine, the crab sandwich (which local Michelin-starred…

THE GLORIOUS OYSTER, WESTWARD HO! The Glorious Oyster started as a mobile oyster bar trading from a Pashley tricycle in Bristol, but when youth worker Lyndsay was made redundant in the summer of 2014, she moved to North Devon and reopened her business in a converted horsebox next to the sea wall at Westward Ho! The menu changes with the seasons but firm menu staples are the fish finger sandwich made with breaded MSC pollock, the fish burger, the local scrumpy-steamed Appledore mussels and griddled Bideford Bay lobster with spiced slaw, herb salad, samphire and sea purslane. It has been so successful that Lyndsay has now opened a second beach shack at nearby Instow beach. Whichever you decide to visit, Lyndsay encourages customers to clean up after they visit the…

Get ahead with a fast-track spiced dinner, made easy

Grilled halloumi & aubergine wraps with herbed yogurt 30 MINUTES + MARINATING | SERVES 3 | EASY | The Spice Tailor punjabi tomato curry 1 pack greek yogurt 200g, plus 2 tbsp extra for the marinade halloumi 250g pack, sliced into 12 baby aubergines 6 small, thinly sliced coriander and mint leaves, a small handful of each, chopped, plus extra to serve red onion 3 tbsp of finely chopped extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp The Spice Tailor plain naans, wraps or thin flatbreads 3 • Squeeze both sauce packets contained in the tomato curry pack into a bowl, stir in 2 tbsp yogurt and add the cheese and aubergine slices. Leave to marinate for 20 minutes or more. Save the packet of spices for another day. • Stir together the…

Get ahead with a fast-track spiced dinner, made easy

A MOVEABLE FEAST

“CAMP BESTIVAL HAS ALWAYS BEEN A LEADER WHEN IT COMES TO FOCUSSING ON FOOD-THE QUALITY IS SO HIGH” Music festivals have been raising their game in recent years when it comes to the food that they offer punters, and Camp Bestival is a shining example thanks to its dedicated food space, The Feast Collective. Bestival’s family friendly sister, celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, returns to the bucolic surrounds of Lulworth Castle in Dorset from 27-30 July for three days of music, comedy, theatre and great food. As Camp Bestival’s official food partner we’re also going to be there, so follow Olive on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram to keep up to date with festival happenings and be sure to listen to the Olive magazine podcast for insider tips on how…

A MOVEABLE FEAST

GET STREET SMART AT THE FEAST COLLECTIVE

DORSHI This Bridport outfit offers handmade Southeast Asian dumplings with punchy salads, pickles and sauces all made using sustainable and locally sourced ingredients. dorshi.co.uk SEADOG Seadog takes street-food flavours from around the world and the best fish from the Devon coast to create moreish festival treats such Japanese fish burgers, seafood laksa and kedgeree. seadogfoods.co.uk KRA POW LDN Explore the fiery, gutsy and complex flavours of northern Thailand with this London-based outfit. Try the pad krapow moo: stir-fried pork, basil, chillies, onion and garlic with soy and oyster sauce, served over rice. krapowldn.com MAKATCHA Broadway Market regular Makatcha knows its street food – try the topside of beef rendang with coconut cream, peanut sauce and pickles. makatcha.co.uk SHRIMPY Bag brain food in the form of Shrimpy’s shrimp burgers with toasted…

GET STREET SMART AT THE FEAST COLLECTIVE

Man-of-the-moment Tommy Banks heads up the kitchen at The Black Swan, a Michelin-starred restaurant with rooms in the picturesque village of Oldstead on the North York Moors. The whole family gets involved in the operation, with older brother James manning front of house, and dad and owner Tom Banks tending to the five-acre allotment that provides Tommy and his team with the ultimate kitchen garden. Start by nestling into a booth in the cosy bar area for an aperitif of sherbety rhubarb schnapps with meadowsweet, lemon balm and rhubarb vinegar. Move through to the dining room to watch the produce-led tasting menu being prepared in the open kitchen with ingredients picked that same morning (courgettes are harvested just a week after flowering so they’re still small and crisp enough to…

Moor Hall, Aughton

The pro Our editor Laura Rowe has reviewed restaurants across the UK for the past decade. You can follow her on Twitter and Instagram at @lauraroweeats The punter Claire Reid lives in Liverpool and is a writer. She eats out twice a week and has a weakness for macaroni cheese. Her most memorable meal was tapas at Neon Jamon in Liverpool. Moor Hall Set within five acres of manicured gardens, and a 25-minute drive from Liverpool, Moor Hall restaurant with rooms is a Grade-II*, 16th-century former gentry house with beautiful lakeside views. It underwent a multi-million-pound renovation in 2015, transforming it into the restaurant now run by Mark Birchall (pictured right), most recently executive chef at L’Enclume in Cumbria. The menu (choose from five or eight courses) is modern British,…

Moor Hall, Aughton

GIDLEIGH PARK, EXETER Michael Caines departure, after 21 years, from Gidleigh Park was big news at the end of 2015 but his replacement is continuing to make quite the impression, even 18 months later. No stranger to Michelin stars, chef Michael Wignall has maintained the hotel restaurant’s two-star rating and continues to evolve his highly intricate menu, a noted departure from the well-loved classical French offering from Gidleigh’s recent past. Now expect regular nods to the East and elsewhere alongside familiar West Country ingredients on the seven- and 10-course tasting menus, such as a surprisingly unfamiliar starter of Pipers Farm chicken cooked in stock with a tiny mouthful of garlic panna cotta, frozen lovage and tapioca cracker. It’s a menu that tickles, and is not confined by culinary borders or…

HOT OFF THE PASS

Edinburgh chef Ben Reade breaks off his thoughtful musings with an outburst of enthusiasm and a choice expletive. He’s out walking as we talk and has just stumbled upon a whopping great Dryad’s Saddle mushroom on a felled tree – “It’s got to be four and a half kilos!” he raves – a wild food find now destined for the kitchen at the Edinburgh Food Studio, the restaurant and research hub he launched with partner Sashana Souza Zanella in November 2015. It’s a good way for a mushroom to go (fermented in brine with koji to a Noma recipe, he later tells me). For Ben and Sashana, 32 and 29 respectively, are two of the proudest champions of Scotland’s abundant natural larder that you could find. The couple, both graduates…

HOT OFF THE PASS

WHERE TO BE SEEN SCOUT Launched by Matt Whiley (the man behind Bethnal Green’s Peg + Patriot) in April, this contemporary space in Shoreditch with lots of natural wood and rendered concrete walls is dedicated to cocktails made using only fresh produce from the British Isles. Seasonality underpins the menu with a dedication to foraging and minimising waste, and so, depending on what’s available, you’ll find drinks such as strawberry (strawberry, lemon balm, vinegar), rhubarb (fermented rhubarb, custard, pine) and beetroot (beetroot, chocolate husk, rye) alongside five house ferments, five beers and a small selection of natural wines. In the basement, you’ll find the Laboratory, a 10-seat private area featuring a menu of drinks that the team are developing in real time. scout.bar ALIVE AND KICKING A fiery ginger beer…

BOOZY ICE-CREAM FLOATS

Chocolate cherry bourbon float 5 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY bourbon 30ml cherry brandy 20ml (optional) cherry Coke 150-200ml, chilled vanilla or chocolate ice cream a scoop squirty cream to serve glacé cherries to serve • Put the first three ingredients into a tall glass and stir. Add a scoop of ice cream, then top with squirty cream and a cherry. Rum, ginger beer and vanilla float 5 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY rum 50ml ginger beer 150-200ml vanilla ice cream a scoop • Put the rum and ginger beer into a tall glass and stir gently. Add a scoop of ice cream. Strawberry, gin and prosecco float 5 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY gin 30ml prosecco 125ml strawberry ice cream a scoop • Put the gin…

BOOZY ICE-CREAM FLOATS

Kate Hawkings on... LA VIE EN ROSE

Nothing says summer like a glass of rosé, redolent of the Riviera, of sunny days and long lunches; something to take as an aperitif as the sun goes down or to sip through a summery supper. The first wine we Brits drank was a rosé of sorts. Known as ‘clairet’ (not to be confused with clairette, a grape variety from the Rhône region), it was made from a mixture of red and white grapes grown and vinified together by the winemakers of Bordeaux in the 12th century. These days, rosé is made from only red grapes, the juice being left on the skins for anything from a few hours to a day or more, which imparts the colour as well as red berry flavours and a degree of tannic grip,…

Kate Hawkings on... LA VIE EN ROSE

COOK LIKE A LOCAL SRI LANKA

A verdant South Asian paradise, Sri Lanka is dominated by two distinct groups: the majority Sinhalese concentrated in the south, central and west of the island, and the Tamils, based mostly in the north and east. These two cultures have separate languages, traditions and religions, a mosaic of diversity that has also led to distinct Sinhalese and Tamil styles of cooking. Many Sinhalese follow the principles of Ayurveda – “food is medicine, medicine is food” – while Tamils say there are six tastes – sweet, sour, bitter, spicy, salty and astringent – and that every meal should be a harmonious balance of all. Yet there is plenty of common ground: the humble coconut is used universally, as is rice, the staple carbohydrate, and lentils. Curry leaves are a vital part…

COOK LIKE A LOCAL SRI LANKA

5 of the best things to eat & drink...

MAALU MOJU A pickle is an essential element of most Sri Lankan meals, not just an afterthought to be dolloped on the side of a plate. This lightly pickled fish is used as an accompaniment in the southern part of the island. MEEN KULAMBU This tamarind fish curry is a classic Tamil dish that really shows off the trio of tamarind, coconut and curry leaves found in so many Sri Lankan recipes. KUKUL MAS MIRISATA Everyone loves chicken curry, and this version will convert even those who have never tried Sri Lankan food before. It’s spicy, warming, fragrant, hot and soothing all at once – the perfect meal. KATHIRIKAI PIRATTAL In this versatile curry aubergine takes centre stage and is paired with tart tamarind, a regular element of Tamil cooking.…

5 of the best things to eat & drink...

Hot US food ‘hoods

Asheville, North Carolina Asheville is a town with a creative soul. Start at Vortex Doughnuts (vortexdoughnuts.com) with a salted caramel and bacon, then try biscuits, a kind of savoury scone, at Biscuit Head (biscuitheads.com) – order the gravy flight for a whirl through fried chicken, espresso red eye and sweet potato and coconut. Great pizza spots include stylish but laid-back All Souls Pizza (allsoulspizza.com), but on a sweltering day, kitsch Marble Slab Creamery (marbleslab.com) is a great escape from the heat; chocolate mallo and lemon custard ices are highlights. Or cool down with a black sour beer at Wicked Weed Brewing’s rustic bar, Funkatorium (wickedweedbrewing.com). For modern Southern cooking, head to Rhubarb (rhubarbasheville.com) for cornbread with pickled shrimp slaw. Return fares from the UK to Asheville cost from £698 (americanairlines.co.uk).…

Hot US food ‘hoods

On the road: Uzès and around

Slow travel doesn’t get more quintessentially French than puttering down a dirt track fringed with fields of apricots and vines in a Citroën 2CV, the roof down, a Panama-wearing guide at the wheel. I had followed my nose to the Gard, the western edge of Provence, but now that I was here my nose was twitching with sensory overload. Pungent truffles and gummy bears? Just two of the more unusual ingredients on the menu in Uzès, one of those achingly pretty Provençal towns whose Chocolat-style looks make it seem like a Hollywood film set. Indeed, its plane-tree-pricked Place aux Herbes once starred in the Gérard Depardieu movie Cyrano de Bergerac. Uzès is surrounded by truffle plantations and hosts a truffle festival every January, while confectionary giant Haribo opened Le Musée…

On the road: Uzès and around

THREE GREAT JULY FOOD HAPPENINGS Established by fishermen in Aberaeron, Cardigan Bay Seafood Festival (9 July) celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. Try local seafood and cider or watch chefs Gareth Ward and Stephen Terry at the stoves. aberaeronfishfest.com Chef demos, workshops, music and kids’ activities are all part of the Yorkshire Dales Food & Drink Festival (22 & 23 July) but you’ll also find food stalls including Whittaker’s Gin and The Singing Pineapple’s posh dogs. yorkshiredalesfood anddrinkfestival.com The pressure is on at this year’s British Street Food Awards with the winners heading to Berlin to compete in the inaugural European Street Food Awards. Catch the London and Southeast heat on Brighton Beach on 30 July. britishstreetfood.co.uk DRINK On 2 July, the French Railways company, SNCF, launches a two-hour Paris-Bordeaux train…

Weekender BIRMINGHAM

1 Café culture Weekends are built for brunch, as is small local chain, Yorks Bakery Café. Head to its latest opening, in the Ikon Gallery, and order a locally roasted coffee while deciding between avocado smash (with feta, sumac, mint and lemon) and shakshuka. yorksbakerycafe.co.uk 2 Bake Off Distract yourself from Cadbury World, just down the road, by taking a cookery class at Loaf in Stirchley. Learn to make your own sourdough, dosas, danish pastries and more (there are also expert pig-butchery courses), then grab a croissant from the bakery on your way out. loafonline.co.uk 3 Wild at heart Cooking that focusses on native, often foraged, British ingredients and a theatrical, boundary-pushing approach (don’t be surprised to find an arrangement of ants on your plate) have made The Wilderness the…

Weekender BIRMINGHAM

INSTATRAVEL Hoi An

How to do it... Return flights from London to Da Nang cost from £413 (vietnamairlines.com). Double rooms at Hoi An Beach Resort cost from £70 per night, b&b (hoianbeachresort.com.vn). More info: hoian-tourism.com and Olive magazine.com #OLIVETRAVELS FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM…

INSTATRAVEL Hoi An

THE LOWDOWN FERMENTING

“BRINE FERMENTING IS ALWAYS BEST WITH FIRM VEGETABLES” For me, fermenting is magical and satisfying when the process is as natural as possible. Wild fermentation is an ancient way of providing the right environment and the right ingredients and letting time take over. The pickles you buy from the shop aren’t fermented and they are essentially devoid of life because they are preserved in vinegar and pasteurised to kill any bacteria that might make them dangerous. This is effective for preservation because food can be stored for years without spoiling, but it doesn’t have the same power as a wild brine ferment. The flavour is very different – the sourness comes from vinegar and sugar rather than from gut-healing lactic acid. It’s easiest to ferment at home with familiar vegetables.…

THE LOWDOWN FERMENTING

Dill pickles 10 DAYS FERMENTING | MAKES 500G | EASY | It’s best to use small, thick-skinned, gherkin-style ridge cucumbers for this. A very important ingredient for keeping them crisp is tannin – we use fresh grape leaves, which you can buy dried from souschef.co.uk – or a pinch of tea leaves, raspberry, blackberry or oak leaves work, too. If you have enough, put one on the bottom and then use another to hold the pickles under the brine before adding a weight and sealing the vessel. small ridge cucumbers 500g grape leaf or other tannin-rich leaf 1 garlic 2-3 cloves mustard seeds 1 tsp whole mixed peppercorns 1 tbsp bird’s-eye chilli 1 fresh or 1 tsp of dried flakes dill roots and stalk 2-3 (otherwise use the fronds or…

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