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42 Articles

While it’s still so cold, we’ve boosted many of the recipes in this issue with heat and flavour punches: there’s the cinnamon and white pepper in the twice-cooked pork belly on page 26, the chilli flakes in the rigatoni with kale sauce on page 62, and the sumac in Rosie Birkett’s blood orange and fennel salad on page 99. Sriracha is the star of our cover recipe, and also features in a sweet-hot pull-apart bread and spaghetti sauce spiked with lemon and parmesan – it will definitely be a new favourite recipe (find them from p54). February’s anchor points are Chinese New Year and Valentine’s Day – both very good excuses to dig out your best plates and glasses, and entertain. The latter has expanded its remit over the past…

this month i’m...

watching @chefchrischo on TikTok Learn how to make chicken porridge and hangover ramen with this Korean-American chef. There’s noodle slurping, spring onion chopping and copious amounts of chilli. Follow him on Instagram @chefchrischo, too (look for the kimchi fries). reading botanistinthekitchen.blog Ultra-geeky and packed with interesting and useful info about the plant world. For example: why you need to snap the base off older asparagus stalks, when they need peeling (and why) and why chilling slows down the aging process that makes the stalks tough. ordering Decatur shrimp boil kit My current favourite restaurant make-at-home kit – with sausage, of course. £37.50 for two, decaturlondon.com.…

What is it? Black garlic is made by ageing white garlic bulbs at gentle temperatures and a specific humidity. It has a rich dark colour, soft fudgy texture and deeply savoury and sweet flavour. How to use it? It can add depth to stocks and stews, stir-fries and pasta dishes, and can be added to marinades and dressings. Where to find it? Sainsbury’s and Waitrose & Partners. Gurdeep Loyal is a food and drink trends specialist who built his career working at Harrods Food Halls, Innocent Drinks and M&S Food. He’s also a food writer and curator of online platform Mother Tongue, with his first recipe book set for release in spring 2022. Black garlic and lime baja fish tacos 45 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY black garlic 11…

Wales’s first ‘queer beer’

When Shaun Houcke (pictured) – who owns The Glory Stores food store in Cardiff – spoke to customers looking to buy beer last year, he questioned why his LGBTQ+-owned business didn’t sell it. “I found that there’s very little LGBTQ+ representation in the UK beer industry,” Shaun explains. “Advertising for beer is often focussed on masculine stereotypes, particularly in sport or ‘laddie’ pub culture. It’s unfortunate that some pleasures, which should be enjoyed by everyone, are marketed in a way that isolates others. “In Wales, the Six Nations attracts spectators from all over the world and, unfortunately, there’s a particular drinking culture associated with that. I think it’s hard to find a person who identifies as LGBTQ+ who hasn’t felt anxious in venues that don’t actively promote inclusivity. We decided…

Wales’s first ‘queer beer’

Tempus truffle salami Made with 100% British ex breeding sow meat, former MasterChef alumni Dhruv Baker and Tom Whitaker have created charcuterie using truffle and confit garlic. £17.50 (75g), tempusfoods.com Ilchester Marmite cheddar This Marmite-infused cheddar isn’t overpowering but it does have a rich, smooth texture that’s great melted on toast or stirred through baked beans (yes, really). £2.15 (180g), Waitrose & Partners BoTree spices chef’s essential collection (eight spices) Whether you’re seasoning veg with flowering hyssop thyme or grilling meats with black urfa chilli, this selection will give your dishes a boost. £34.95, botreefarm.co.uk The Black Pig peperoncini Somewhere between spicy and sweet, this fermented, pickled red chilli with confit garlic has a soft heat. This Calabrian preserve pairs well with a cheese and can lift any sandwich. £6.50,…

Why not make and share our cover recipe?

To enter, share your photos on social media with #Olive cookcover or email Olive web@immediate.co.uk with the subject line ‘Cook the cover’ by 24 February. We’ll feature the winner in an upcoming issue. Last month’s winner, Helen Hughes, says: “Edd Kimber’s recipes are always a joy to make, and I was already sold on baking this as soon as I saw the issue cover page! The spices used in the cake mix smelled amazing while it was baking and the candied orange peel and clementines made it feel really special as the finishing touches of decoration.” From the judges: “The food has been styled well and looks like our cover, with the use of soft natural light and minimal props, with a splash of festive colour.” Want to sharpen up…

Why not make and share our cover recipe?

3 must-visit restaurants

Just opened Kindle, Cardiff The third in Phil and Deb Lewis’s mini restaurant empire in the Welsh capital, Kindle encourages a circular economy with local farmers, gamekeepers and gardeners. Fire and smoke are used to create small plates such as sangak flatbread with burnt aubergine butter, tangy South Indian mackerel soup and a pig’s head, trotter and bean stew. There’s a ‘no napkin’ ethos and a commitment to creating new ingredients from seasonal surplus. kindlecardiff.co.uk Revisiting Fallow, London SW1 This sustainability-focussed restaurant has hopped from its year-long residency in Mayfair to a permanent spot in St James’s in London. The menu offers caramelised cauliflower croquettes and iconic kombu seasoned corn ‘ribs’ before nose-to-tail dishes, including cod’s head in a pool of sriracha butter sauce, fallow deer tartare and whipped salmon…

3 must-visit restaurants

Purge your home of plastic

It’s still quite difficult to buy packaging-free fruit and veg unless you have access to a market or greengrocer. Another way to cut down on packaging is to subscribe to a veg box delivery service. Some veg will still come in a bag – salad leaves for example – or, if the product might get damaged easily (such as mushrooms) but most of the box should be loose. The website foodboxfinder.co.uk lists schemes all over the country and includes local farmers, nearby companies and those that deliver nationwide. Veg boxes also tend to be more seasonal, so you’re also likely to be racking up fewer air miles. Companies such as Oddbox (oddbox. co.uk ) will deliberately find products that would otherwise be wasted due to shape or oversupply. Before you…

Purge your home of plastic

your Olive favourites

Christmas choux buns “The coconut milk (cream) whipped into the double cream is tasty on another level. The sweet, sticky glaze on top is gorge and the toasted coconut flakes finish them off perfectly. I honestly could have eaten the whole batch of them!” @littlewelshfoodie Healthy prawn linguine with ’nduja “I absolutely loved the simplicity of this pasta dish and it is absolutely packed full of flavour. It’s become a firm family favourite!” @hannahs.homemade.treats Find these recipes at Olive magazine.com and share your favourites on # Olive magazine…

your Olive favourites

What’s new on the Olive podcast?

The Olive podcast is now released weekly on a Friday. In each episode Olive’s deputy editor and podcast host Janine will ask chefs, cookery writers and characters from the food scene in Britain and beyond to share their expert food knowledge and insider info. Tune in now to hear guests including Olive columnist Gurdeep Loyal on 2022’s hottest food trends, and Tim Anderson on izakaya cuisine. Find the Olive magazine podcast on Acast, iTunes or other podcast providers.…

What’s new on the Olive podcast?

Brighten the mood

Better Days Are Coming I Promise plate £70, shop.yinkailori.com Originally part of a large-scale installation in Blackfriars, London, in June 2020, this artwork of hope is now perfectly sized to motivate you in your own kitchen. Colour Sticks chopsticks £39 (set of six), madeindesign.co.uk With Hay’s signature cheerfulness and detail, each of these six pairs of chopsticks is finished in different bold colours. Henry Holland footed bowl £125, sohohome.com Ex-fashion designer Henry now explores nerikomi – a Japanese technique that involves hand-building pottery with different colours of clay. This is from his Soho Home collection, and is made in beautifully rich tones.…

Brighten the mood

Propagation Place

Set in Bristol city centre, St Werburghs City Farm is surrounded by areas that fall within the 10 per cent most disadvantaged in the UK. The farm already provided workshops, apprenticeships and educational activities for children but, in 2015, director Jess Clynewood decided to do more for the local food system. She set up Propagation Place, a social enterprise selling vegetable plug plants, which allows funds to be put back into reinvesting in green space and supporting volunteers. Project manager Celia Briseid says: “We wanted to set up a community business that could provide volunteering and educational opportunities.” Since launching, they’ve had a fantastic response: “We’ve gone from strength to strength and have had more than 300 volunteers socialise and spend time outdoors while learning to grow their own food.…

Propagation Place

Sticky buns 2.0

What we’ve spotted Cinnamon buns have been a hot trend in bakeries for a while but there’s a new generation on the block taking these baked goods to the next level. Where to find them The bakery in the Selfridges Foodhall super-sizes its buns and douses them in inventive glazes such as cookies ’n’ cream, Biscoff and berry cheesecake. Miel Bakery on London’s Warren Street switches up the flavouring with pistachio, hazelnut and peanut butter fillings. Arôme Bakery in Covent Garden gives its buns a Malaysian twist with gula melaka (Malaysian palm sugar) and desiccated coconut, while Edinburgh’s Twelve Triangles’ baklava buns have crunchy chopped pistachios and a syrupy glaze.…

Sticky buns 2.0

cook with the season

Roast chicory and blue cheese tartines 40 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | V These make a great starter or light lunch, especially served with a few crisp bacon lardons and a Frisée lettuce salad dressed in a honey and sherry vinegar vinaigrette. You could also scatter the roasted chicory, walnuts, chutney and blue cheese over a sheet of puff pastry, and bake for a free-form tart, if you like. white chicory 2 small, trimmed and halved olive oil 2 tbsp, plus a drizzle runny honey 1 tbsp, plus a drizzle sherry vinegar 2 tsp wholegrain or seeded bloomer 4 slices walnut halves 20g dolcelatte or roquefort (or vegetarian alternative) 100g red onion chutney 2 tbsp 1 Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Put the chicory halves on…

cook with the season

TWICE-COOKED PORK BELLY Pork belly in any form is one of those ingredients that finds its way into Chinese households all year round. It was one of my dad’s final wishes before he went up to the heavens, and my sister always seems to have a slab of pork belly fat or skin ready for crackling or a soup dumpling craving. In our family, we cook it numerous ways over Christmas, New Year and Chinese New Year. For this recipe, poaching the belly before cooling, slicing and frying it gives each bite a crisp edge. I’ve come up with a simple way of setting out your prepared ingredients to help you cook them in order. It’s called the ‘wok clock’. Starting at 12 o’clock, you set out your ingredients all…

DUMPLING SHAPING TIPS

If you’re inclined to become a true dim sum master, here’s how to practise the traditional dim sum rolling technique: • First, roll a third of the rested dough into a long cylinder, roughly 2cm thick, keeping the remainder of the dough covered so it doesn’t dry out. Cut the cylinder into 1cm chunks. Roll each piece of dough into a small ball and set aside – before rolling each individual piece, dust the worksurface with a good amount of flour. • Take a piece of dough and push down on it with your palm to form a small circle. With the dough still resting on the floured surface, with your non-dominant hand, using your thumb and fingers underneath the edge of the dough, begin to turn the dough anti-clockwise,…

DUMPLING SHAPING TIPS

Prawns pil pil effortless ! Plump prawns in a deliciously garlicky, spicy oil – this recipe couldn’t be easier. Don’t forget the crusty bread for mopping up all of those wonderful juices. 10 MINUTE | SERVES 2 AS A STARTER | EASY | GF extra-virgin olive oil 4 tbsp peeled raw king prawns 180g pack garlic 4 cloves, thinly sliced sweet smoked paprika 2 tsp dried chilli flakes 1 tsp flat-leaf parsley a handful, chopped lemon ½, wedged to serve crusty bread 1 Heat the olive oil in a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and cook the prawns and garlic for 3 minutes until the prawns have turned pink. Add the paprika, chilli flakes and a good pinch of salt, and cook for another minute. Remove from the…

Everyday healthy

Broccoli almond gnudi These will take you a little longer to make due to the overnight chilling but the reward is delicate little ricotta dumplings with some added bite and flavour from the broccoli, almonds and nutmeg. Finished in the dressing, it’s a light lunch worth the wait. 45 MINUTES + OVERNIGHT CHILLING | SERVES 2 A LITTLE EFFORT | V LC ricotta 125g small broccoli 125g prepared weight, chopped ground almonds 15g parmesan (or vegetarian alternative) 10g, finely grated plus extra to garnish egg yolk 1 nutmeg a good pinch of ground semolina 75g extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp garlic 1 large clove, thinly sliced ready roasted red peppers from a jar 2, cut into thin strips pitted black olives 10, thinly sliced lemon juice a squeeze rocket 90g…

Everyday healthy

storecupboard STAPLES

Golden syrup, walnut and coffee cake 50 MINUTES + COOLING | SERVES 8-10 | EASY unsalted butter 250g, softened, plus extra for the tin instant coffee 2 tbsp golden syrup 250g eggs 4 walnuts 100g, finely chopped self-raising flour 225g ground almonds 50g baking powder 1 tsp ICING instant coffee 1 tbsp unsalted butter 70g, softened icing sugar 150g double cream 300ml 1 Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Butter and line two 20cm round cake tins. Mix the coffee with 1 tbsp of just-boiled water in a small bowl and leave to cool slightly. In a large bowl, beat together the butter and golden syrup until well combined and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, mixing well between each addition, then pour in the coffee mixture…

storecupboard STAPLES

3 ways with sriracha

Sriracha chicken wings 50 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS A SIDE EASY cornflour 5 tbsp garlic granules 1 tsp smoked paprika 2 tsp whole black peppercorns ground to make 1 tsp chicken wings 1.5kg, drums and flats separated toasted sesame seeds 2 tsp spring onions 2, thinly sliced on an angle SAUCE sriracha 6 tbsp soy sauce 3 tbsp runny honey 3 tbsp rice vinegar 2 tbsp 1 Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Tip the cornflour, garlic, paprika, pepper and a big pinch of salt into a large bowl and mix briefly before adding the wings and tossing until each is fully coated. 2 Put a large cooling rack over a large roasting tray, then lay the wings onto the rack, leaving a little space around each. Roast…

3 ways with
sriracha

HOW IS MATURE CHEDDAR MADE? Cheddar has a long history with traditional British dishes, from sandwiches to cauliflower cheese. It’s made from milk, salt and rennet (either vegetarian or animal derived – check the label) and sometimes annatto for colour. Aging can vary from three to 24 months, which affects texture and flavour, becoming stronger the longer it’s left. HOW WE TASTED We tried the cheeses on their own to score for texture, crumbliness, saltiness and overall depth of flavour. Castello Tickler Mature £4.20 (350g) This cheese has a slightly waxy texture that would lend itself to cheese and pickle sandwiches, or grated over jacket potatoes. It has a rich, creamy flavour and milder aftertaste which makes this a good all-rounder. Davidstow Classic Mature Cheddar £3.50 (350g) Gorgeous…

cook a classic Sweet dreams

Chocolate soufflé 45 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | GF unsalted butter 1 tbsp, melted golden caster sugar 25g, plus 1 tbsp best-quality dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids) 75g, chopped double cream 50ml whole milk 50ml eggs 2, separated icing sugar for dusting pouring cream to serve 1 Heat the oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7. Butter four 150-200ml ramekins, dust the insides with 1 tbsp of caster sugar, then tip out the remaining sugar. 2 Warm the dark chocolate, cream and milk in a small pan and over a low heat, stirring until glossy and melted. Remove from the heat. 3 Whisk the egg whites with an electric whisk until soft peaks form, then add the sugar a teaspoon at a time until stiff peaks form. Whisk the egg…

cook a classic Sweet dreams

eat in, eat out Manteca

Chefs Chris Leach and David Carter opened Manteca’s first permanent home on Curtain Road, Shoreditch, in November last year to rave reviews. Inspired by Chris’s travels through Italy, the focus is on nose-to-tail Italian cooking, with hand-rolled pasta, house-made salami, seasonal vegetables and wood-fired breads at the forefront. Expect hearty, knockout dishes including puffy clam flatbreads, a rich pig skin ragu, and rigatoni with a silky kale sauce (see overleaf for the recipe) served in a light, airy setting. There’s a carefully honed wine menu with classic bottles and bolder ‘down the rabbit hole’ wines, and an amari-focussed cocktail list making the most of the Italian herbal liqueur, featuring not-to-be-missed house-made amaro. mantecarestaurant.co.uk Artichoke alla giudìa 25 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS A STARTER | EASY lemon 1, plus extra…

eat in, eat out Manteca

Where to eat sustainably

From carbon offsetting to cutting back on meat, the best British restaurants are seeking to work sustainably – providing pleasure but also protecting the planet. Want to get to know these next-gen green kitchens? THE RESTORATIVE RESTAURANT Apricity, London Unlike so many box-ready restaurants, when it opens in March, chef-owner Chantelle Nicholson wants Apricity to be “not just sustainable but restorative, a closed-loop of use and re-use”. It’s an aim that requires effort – foraging nettles and hazelnuts in urban London, designing zero-waste cocktails, using up-cycled and repurposed furniture – and imaginative flexibility. Day to day, chef Eve Seemann will execute dishes such as Cornish mackerel and Shetland mussels with sambal butter and pickled pear, or crispy sprouts with spent-beer vinegar and rosemary. Meanwhile, Chantelle, who first made her name…

Where to eat sustainably

SHARPENING YOUR SUSTAINABILITY RADAR

By 2025 the Sustainable Restaurant Association is aiming to audit 100,000 kitchens annually. Here are its key tips on how to spot progressive restaurants: Food waste accounts for 10% of global greenhouse emissions. Look for signs of maximum ingredient use (less-valued meat cuts, root-to-fruit veg and preserving) and ask to take leftovers home. On menus, look for clear provenance (named producers), seasonality and trusted certification – for example, certified Soil Association organic produce or Marine Stewardship Council-approved sustainable fish. Sustainable restaurants value employees, too. Many explain how tips and service charges are distributed on the menu. Staff should receive all tips and, if this isn’t clear, ask. Finally, is the restaurant sporting Food Made Good stars? The SRA awards one to three to businesses making genuine sustainable changes. thesra.org…

SIX NEW RECRUITS TO THE GREEN SCENE

Nell’s, Manchester From renewable electricity to banning clingfilm, this pizza joint was designed (less meat, UK ingredients) to be a greener slice of tomorrow. It’s also a Living Wage Foundation employer. Pizza from £8; nellspizza.co.uk FIELD by Fortnum’s, London Watch this space for news of the next incarnation of FIELD, where every dish is sourced from regenerative farms and day boats. Ingredients from the shop that are not for fit for sale are used in its British-focussed menu (including a fabulous welsh rarebit) and interiors reuse and recycle furniture and crockery. Small plates from £4.55, mains from £13.50; fortnumandmason.com Kindle, Cardiff The unique, sustainably built, covered outdoor space is home to chef Tom Powell’s wood-fired plates of, say, collard greens with coal-roasted onions (70% veggie menu, nose-to-tail elsewhere). Plates £4-11;…

pro vs punter Barnacle

For decades, latterly at his elegant Art School Restaurant, chef Paul Askew has set a culinary bar in Liverpool. His technical prowess and love of northwest produce have made him a legendary figure locally, and an inspiration to several generations of chefs – some of whom he is collaborating with at Barnacle. Found on the mezzanine at Duke Street Market food hall, Barnacle (named after Paul’s merchant seaman dad, ‘Barnacle’ Bill), was described, at launch in December, as a celebration of this port city’s global food influences using incredible regional produce. The vibe is casual (there are bar snacks, too) but a menu of just 12 dishes: available as two or three courses (£37.50), including an amuse and bread, indicates the ambition Paul’s team has for its game terrine, seafood…

pro vs punter Barnacle

Nice as pie Ahh Toots, Bristol Why have one kind of chocolate when you can have three? This triple-chocolate cookie pie from the cult Bristol cakery and biscuiteer is our kind of afternoon pick-me-up. Whole hog Hackney Coterie, London E8 Editor Lulu Grimes called this cured pork belly with fermented honey, poached Cox apple and potato purée “one of the nicest things I’ve ever eaten”. Warming spice Tallow, Royal Tunbridge Wells The humble ginger cake is elevated to the next level in this seasonal star dish served warm with roasted pear and apple brandy cream. Totally wild Where the Light Gets In, Stockport Hairy bitter cress (which is neither hairy nor bitter) from the restaurant’s own rooftop growing space gives this miso potato, brown crab and egg yolk dish a…

Warming winter reds

Appassimento is the Italian word for ‘withering’, which gives a clue to how these wines are made. The grapes are dried after harvest, laid on racks in airy warehouses where they gently shrivel during the winter months, concentrating the sugars and the flavour compounds. The technique of using dried grapes to make sweet wines has long been used across the world but the term appassimento is particularly associated with Valpolicella in Italy’s Veneto region, where it is used to make powerful dry wines, perfect for dark winter nights. Amarone della Valpolicella is considered the king of these, made with corvina, corvinone and rondinella grapes. Traditionally, the wines retained a little sweetness and were heavy with the influence of the oak barrels in which they must be aged for at least…

Warming winter reds

five appassimento wines to try

Nero Oro Grillo Appassimento £9.99, majestic.co.uk One of the very rare white appassimento wines, made in Sicily with the grillo grape. Luscious layers of peachy and citrus fruit with a touch of gingery spice. Lovely with the lobster noodles on p30. Morrisons The Best Amarone della Valpolicella £16, Morrisons Complex and comforting with amarone’s characteristic dried-fruit depth and richness at a very good price. The beef cheek lasagne on p94 would be a great match, or drink it with a cheeseboard after dinner. Terre di Faiano Primitivo £9.99, Waitrose Organic primitivo from Puglia where high summer temperatures give ripe, concentrated fruit. Plush with ripe blackberries, vanilla and warming spice – perfect for the lamb shank shepherd’s pie on p96. Pieropan Le Colombare Recioto di Soave 2017 £34.99,…

five appassimento wines to try

drinks decoder How to order a martini Request this drink at the bar and you’ll be asked if you want your martini dry or wet. How ‘dry’ your martini is relates to the proportion of gin or vodka to vermouth. A dry martini is typically six parts gin to one part dry vermouth. Some bars will use even less vermouth – a tiny drop of it – so steer clear if you’d prefer a less boozy drink. A wet martini uses more vermouth – around a 3:1 ratio of spirit to vermouth but you can increase this to 2:1 or even 1:1 if you prefer. Alternatively, swap around the proportions and use more vermouth than spirit to make a reverse martini for a lower-ABV drink. cocktail recipe Bakewell tart fizz…

cook like a local Philippines

Filipino food is built for a crowd. Everyone brings food – potluck is our way of life – the dining table as the stage for a great patchwork of baking dishes and foil bins, packed edge to edge. Every Filipino meal is a collaboration between cook and diner. Dishes are finished not in the kitchen but at the table, where the sawsawan (dipping sauce) and condiments await. Adobo is probably the Filipino dish best known and least understood by Westerners. In 1613 a Franciscian friar compiling a Tagalog dictionary, reached for the Spanish verb adobar to describe the dousing of ingredients with vinegar, to season and pickle. But that technique of preservation, essential in a tropical climate, long pre-dated his arrival. Merienda is what you eat in between meals, mid-morning…

cook like a local Philippines

10 things I love about chinese new year

Peter started his culinary career at his family’s Chinese restaurant in Singapore, where his father taught him the fine art of carving meats during the school holidays. In 2013, he made the move to London to join the Hakkasan Group, before helming the kitchen at MiMi Mei Fair in 2021. Peter’s dishes take inspiration from Singapore, as well as Hong Kong and mainland China. 1 Red envelopes, blessings and tangerines On the first day of the new year, we wake up early and wear new clothes from head to toe to symbolise a new beginning of a good year. We take turns to pay respects to our elders by offering two tangerines and giving auspicious new year greetings. In return, we receive red envelopes of money as a blessing.…

10 things I love about
chinese new year

kitchens to covet beautifully practical

I am the founder of Bettina’s Kitchen, as well as a plant-based chef, recipe developer and cookbook author. I started in the wellness industry 10 years ago, running health retreats all over the world and catering them, and continue to do so alongside teaching at my Retreat Chef Academy, where I help students learn the fundamentals of retreat cheffing. I live in north London with my husband, nine-year-old daughter and our pets. Our kitchen is open plan, with several worktops and a central island where we have most of our meals, especially breakfasts and quick lunches. It’s a space that I’ve adapted for my family as well as recipe development and photo shoots. My kitchen is homely and includes all sorts of knick-knacks that I’ve collected. I think it’s practical…

kitchens to covet

beautifully practical

relaxed pub lunch

Beef cheek lasagne You will need a pasta machine for this recipe. 4 HOURS + OVERNIGHT CHILLING + RESTING | SERVES 6 A LITTLE EFFORT sunflower oil 2 tbsp beef cheek 600g carrots 2, finely chopped onions 3, finely chopped thyme a few sprigs bay leaves 2 button mushrooms 250g, three-quarters roughly chopped, a quarter cut in half, plus a few very finely sliced to garnish chicken breasts 2 egg 1 double cream 350ml land cress or watercress a handful of leaves to serve PASTA 00 flour 230g egg yolks 175g (around 9-10) CELERIAC PURÉE celeriac 250g, peeled and finely diced unsalted butter 25g double cream 100g 1 Heat the oven to 160C/fan 140C/gas 2 and heat 1 tbsp of oil in a casserole. Sear the beef cheeks until golden…

relaxed pub lunch

kitchen therapy

Lamb shank shepherd’s pie 5 HOURS | SERVES 4-6 | EASY sunflower oil 2 tbsp lamb shanks 4 small, seasoned well onion 1, finely chopped celery 2 sticks, finely chopped carrots 2, finely chopped bay leaves 2 garlic 3 cloves, finely chopped plain flour 1 tbsp chopped tomatoes 400g tin chicken stock 750ml worcestershire sauce 2 tbsp rosemary 4 sprigs, needles picked and chopped potatoes 850g, cut into chunks unsalted butter 50g steamed green vegetables to serve 1 Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a large casserole over a medium-high heat and brown the lamb shanks, in batches, for 2-3 minutes on each side until well coloured. Remove to a plate and set aside. 2 Add the remaining oil, the onion, celery, carrots, bay and a pinch of salt…

kitchen therapy

secrets to share

• Browning the lamb While it’s tempting to skip this step, taking the time to really brown the lamb shanks before slow-cooking them helps build deep, delicious flavour into the braise. Caramelising the meat at the start adds umami depth as well as an appealing deep, dark colour. • Perfect pulling lamb Lamb shanks do take a while to cook as they’re in large pieces but the wait is worth it. The result is meltingly tender meat that pulls apart with ease. They’re a group of muscles that does a lot of work, so shanks need slow, gentle cooking to tenderise. They’re full of gelatin, fat and marrow from the bone, which enriches the stew and makes it unctuously delicious. • Lid on, then off Keeping the lid on for…

at home with Rosie Birkett

Last month, I wrote all about the comforting things we can cook to get us through the bleakness of January, sharing an indulgent recipe for my boozy bread and butter pudding. But February, for me, always feels like a more realistic and appropriate time to be digging into gorgeous winter salads and celebrating the deep colours and pronounced flavours of the produce available to us at this time of year. The word February actually comes from the Latin word februa, meaning ‘to cleanse’. It was named after the Roman Februalia, a month-long festival of purification and atonement, though it had more to do with offering sacrifices to the gods than enjoying some swanky farmers’ market haul. There’s certainly something bordering on ethereal and definitely something cleansing about the beautiful, vivid…

at home with Rosie Birkett

This month’s projects

Dividing my snowdrops I’ve had a lovely crop of snowdrops this year, thanks to some judicious November planting. Once they’ve finished flowering I’m going to divide some of the clumps and replant them elsewhere in the garden to encourage even more next year. I’m hoping for borders swaying with pretty white drops by 2023. Sowing seeds It might feel early but, excitingly, it’s time to start thinking about what you might want to grow this year for your kitchen garden or pots. I’m going to try to make a start on sowing my tomatoes and chillies for inside germination, and I’d encourage you to do the same for a nice early harvest or two. Feeding the soil for spring planting season We’ve been practising ‘no dig’ with our vegetable patch…

on the Olive podcast the sustainable kitchen

Try a multi-cooker I’ve got a really small kitchen, which means that gadgets need to earn their space. I bought a multi-cooker with many functions. Most have pressure and slow cooking but many can also cook rice and act as an air fryer. With so many different options, you’ll use it a lot more. Energy-wise, multi-cookers also use a lot less than a conventional electric oven, especially for slow cooking. The pressure cook function also means that a casserole that might take hours in a conventional oven can be ready in less than one, saving time and energy. Make your oven work harder There are only two of us in my house, so if I put the oven on, I want to make the most of it. For example, if…

on the Olive podcast the sustainable kitchen

Anna’s favourite time- and energy- saving recipes

Chicken tinga This smoky, spicy one-pot (pictured, right) freezes well – serve in tacos, enchiladas or quesadillas. Thai curry paste Nothing compares to a fragrant hit of homemade curry paste – freeze in an ice cube tray to easily use a portion as needed. Turmeric and ginger butter bean stew Nourish yourself with a big bowl of this warming stew with a zingy ginger, turmeric and creamy coconut milk broth. Harissa meatballs Inspired by classic Middle Eastern flavours, these meatballs with harissa, pomegranate molasses, dried apricots and fragrant spices can be portioned and frozen for later. To listen to the podcast, scan the QR code above or find it via Olive magazine.com, Acast, iTunes or your favourite podcast provider.…

Anna’s favourite time- and energy- saving recipes

Love your leftovers

Baked ham, spinach and cheese pancakes effortless! Utilise left-over pancakes and cooked ham by transforming them into this comforting dinner for four. 1 HOUR 5 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY sunflower oil 1 tbsp chestnut mushrooms 250g, sliced spinach 300g, chopped ham 200g, chopped dijon mustard 1 tbsp whole black peppercorns ground to make ½ tsp gruyère 100g, finely grated ready-made pancakes 8 double cream 300ml nutmeg a good grating green salad to serve 1 Heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat and fry the mushrooms with a pinch of salt for 10 minutes until the liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms have caramelised. Turn down the heat, add the spinach and wilt for 5 minutes before stirring in the ham, mustard, pepper and…

Love your leftovers

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