85 Articles

It was an overcast, December afternoon in Yellowstone National Park when my husband and I clicked into cross-country skis for the first time. Ahead of us was the 5-mile trail to Tower Fall, one of the park’s spectacular waterfalls. If I were on foot, I would have barely noticed the gradual incline but as soon as I started shuffling forward on my rental skis, it looked like one of the seven summits. We’d signed up for a five-day, guided ski trip through Yellowstone as total newbies. I had every intention of practicing a few times at home before we left but the days got away from me and suddenly it was time to head to Montana. At our pre-trip orientation, the other members of our tour had looked at us incredulously. I’d…

1 min.

Park Map

Grand Prismatic Spring Deeper than a 10-story building, Grand Prismatic Spring has scalding hot water that travels 121 feet from a crack in the Earth to reach the surface. The multicolored layers get their hues from different species of heat-loving bacteria living in the progressively cooler water around the pool. Old Faithful Geyser This geyser was named for its frequent and somewhat predictable eruptions, which number more than a million since Yellowstone became the world’s first national park in 1872. Find eruption predictions in the visitor center. Mammoth Hot Springs Mammoth Hot Springs, located near the North Entrance of the park, has two boardwalks along the terraces. Approximately 50 hot springs lie within the area. Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone This waterfall-filled canyon is breathtaking. Twenty miles long, the canyon is up to 4,000-feet wide and 1,200-feet…

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Five Ways to See Yellowstone

Yellowstone is as big as Puerto Rico, so it’s important to take distance into account when planning sightseeing and lodging. To make the most of your trip—and to spend less time driving—you’ll want to decide in advance which of the five entrances to the park makes the most sense for you to use. If you’re driving from Denver, or plan to also stop at Grand Teton National Park, use the South Entrance. Travelers coming from Utah or Idaho should use the West Entrance. Going south from Montana, you can use the North or Northeast entrances. The North Entrance is the only one accessible to passenger cars in winter from outside the park. The last entrance is the East Entrance, which is most convenient coming from Badlands or Mount Rushmore. South Entrance The…

4 min.

Back to Basics

1 Think big. At more than 3,400 square miles, Yellowstone is huge. It can take hours to drive from one part of the park to another and speed limits are 45 mph or slower on all roads. Not to mention notorious bison jams often cause delays. Plan your trip strategically so you don’t spend all your time driving. 2 Get your pass. You can buy a $35, 7-day pass at a park entrance station, or use your America the Beautiful or other interagency annual pass to get into the national park. If you’re planning to visit Grand Teton as well, an America the Beautiful pass is the way to go to avoid paying double entrance fees. 3 Watch your step. Yellowstone’s thermal features are fatally hot. Always stay on trails and boardwalks, keep small children…

1 min.

Best Park App

You can tour Yellowstone on your own, but if you download the GyPSy Guide app, you’ll get an insider’s perspective on the park without having to go on a tour. It’s like having your own guide in the car with you. “We’re travelers too. We all want the freedom to explore at our own pace and terms, but we want a local expert to direct us to the best places to go and what to see,” says Rick Bulich, managing director of GyPSy Guide. “Ultimately, we guide but you decide.” As you drive, the app uses your location to automatically play perfectly timed commentary about history, geology, wildlife and more. Stories like how microscopic bacteria in Yellowstone’s hot springs have enabled scientists to find our distant ancestors, cure diseases and even solve…

3 min.

A Weekend in Yellowstone

DAY ONE 6 a.m. — Watch Wildlife in Lamar Valley Called “America’s Serengeti,” this grassy valley supports huge numbers of bison, grizzly bears, elk, wolves and more. For your best chance of seeing a wolf, get up before sunrise and use binoculars or a spotting scope at pullouts. Remember to always stay at least 100 yards from predators like bears and wolves, and at least 25 yards from other animals like bison and elk. 10 a.m. — Stroll the Boardwalks of Mammoth Hot Springs Near the park’s North Entrance, stop at this unique thermal feature where you can see colorful travertine terraces. These terraces are formed by hot springs rising to the surface and depositing dissolved limestone in dramatic patterns. Mammoth Hot Springs is composed of two loops. If you do them both, you’ll…

3 min.

INTO THE WILD

Bison Bison can weigh up to 2,000 pounds and are herbivores. Despite their size, they are very agile and can run up to 30 mph and jump up to six feet vertically. Their humps contain strong muscles that allow them to use their big heads as snowplows. In 1902, America’s wild bison had dwindled to only two dozen animals due to overhunting. Conservation efforts increased the Yellowstone bison population to 5,400 in 2021. See them in Hayden, Lamar and Pelican valleys. Gray Wolf Gray wolves had gone extinct in Yellowstone until 14 were reintroduced in 1995. Today, approximately 70 wolves live here. Wolves are not listed as an endangered species in the Northern Rockies and they have begun to face increased threats from hunters. These social canines live in packs and can be…

1 min.

Be Safe in Bear Country

Nervous about hiking and camping in grizzly territory? You’re not alone. We talked to Chuck Bartlebaugh of the Be Bear Aware Campaign who has traveled extensively across the U.S. and Canada studying bears and helping develop best practices for avoiding dangerous encounters with these awe-inspiring creatures. Here’s Bartebaugh’s five tips for safely navigating bear country. Hike in a group. Bears are less likely to charge a group than an individual. Don’t let children lag behind or run ahead. Remember the golden rule. Bears just want to be left alone. If you see a bear, let them know you’re there with a nonthreatening voice and look for an option to move out of the bear’s travel route. Always carry a quality bear spray. Not all bear sprays are the same. Choose one with at least seven seconds…

2 min.

Choose YOUR Hike

Thermal Features Stunning Waterfall Beautiful Lake High Country Away from Crowds DIFFICULTY: Easy Moderate Difficult Mammoth Hot Springs The Mammoth Hot Springs 1.75-mile boardwalk trail enables you to see this iconic landmark up-close. It takes about an hour to explore the Upper and Lower terraces, home to approximately 50 hot springs. On the Lower Terrace, the Liberty Cap cone rises up 37 feet and allegedly got its name because of its resemblance to the peaked caps worn during the French Revolution. Storm Point Enjoy incredible views of the enormous Yellowstone Lake during this 2.3-mile easy loop hike. The trail begins at a turnout at Indian Pond, three miles east of the Fishing Bridge Visitor Center. Hike along the shoreline, through a meadow and a lodgepole pine forest and look for bison, eagles and bears. Because of the extremely cold temperatures of the…

1 min.

Leave No Trace

1 PLAN AHEAD & PREPARE Research trails, campsites and weather ahead of time and plan and pack accordingly. Always carry bear spray, water, snacks and layers. 2 TRAVEL & CAMP ON DURABLE SURFACES Stay on trails to help concentrate foot traffic and limit your impact on plants in the park. 3 DISPOSE OF YOUR WASTE PROPERLY Pack out everything you bring in, including fruit peels and toilet paper. Throw all your trash in garbage cans at the end of your hike. 4 LEAVE WHAT YOU FIND Take nothing but pictures. Leave rocks, fossils, flowers and archaeological artifacts for others to enjoy. 5 MINIMIZE YOUR CAMPFIRE IMPACTS Check fire restrictions in the area. Only light a fire in a well-built fire ring and make sure the fire is completely out before leaving or going to bed. 6 RESPECT WILDLIFE Never feed wildlife…

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Rocky Mountain High

Stretching from the high deserts of New Mexico across 3,000 miles into Canada, the Rocky Mountains are North America’s biggest range. This road trip traces a small section of these iconic peaks from the Mile High City of Denver, Colorado, to the Wyoming-Montana border before looping back south through the canyons of Utah and western Colorado. Touch the clouds as you drive Rocky Mountain National Park’s 12,183-foot-high Trail Ridge Road. Then, cross into Wyoming and visit a bison ranch or watch a rodeo in the state’s capital, Cheyenne. Drive through some of the prettiest scenery in the West on the Snowy Range Scenic Byway and get out on the water at beautiful lakes near towns like Wheatland and Casper. You can learn about the history of the West from ranching to…

4 min.

2 Days in Rocky Mountain

DAY ONE 6 a.m. Watch the Sunrise at Bear Lake Getting up before the sun isn’t just to see the world light up. The Bear Lake parking lot fills up extremely early on summer mornings, so arriving before dawn gives you a better shot of snagging a spot. Catch first light as it rises over Hallett Peak and Flattop Mountain by showing up at least 30 minutes before sunrise. Follow the 1.1-mile trail around the lake until you reach a good viewpoint and then take in the show. If parking is full, you can leave your car at the Bear Lake Road Park & Ride and get on the first shuttle at 6:30 a.m. You may miss sunrise, but early morning views of the glassy lake are still worth it. 7:30 a.m. Hike to…

2 min.

The New West

In Cheyenne, two worlds collide. Just outside of town, herds of bison roam at the Terry Bison Ranch where you can go on a trail or train ride to see these iconic creatures up close. Each July, you can visit Cheyenne Frontier Days, a world renowned festival full of pro-rodeo, country music and Western heritage. If you’re not visiting in July, the Hell on Wheels Rodeo Series on select Friday nights throughout the summer, complete with a chuck wagon dinner, will give you a taste of cowboy culture. The Old West traditions are still a vital part of Cheyenne’s culture, but there’s so much more to this city than cowboy charm. “For one thing, the music scene here is exploding,” says Jim Walter, director of sales and marketing at Visit Cheyenne. “It’s…

1 min.

Rodeo, Ho!

If you’ve timed your visit right, you’ll arrive in Cheyenne for the world’s largest outdoor rodeo and western celebration where top rodeo athletes compete for more than $1 million in cash and prizes. Celebrating its 127th year in 2023, Cheyenne Frontier Days offers more than daily rodeo action July 21-30. Take the Behind-the-Chutes Tour to learn what goes on during the rodeo. Meet the animals, step into the chutes and finish the tour by walking across the arena. Stop by Indian Village where Native Americans have been performing since 1898, returning each year to entertain and educate visitors about American Indian heritage with dances, handicrafts and storytelling. There’s also a carnival with rides, an air show, top-name entertainment like Tim McGraw and Eric Church, Professional Bull Riders (PBR) and several parades…

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Make Memories Last

Visiting a national park, whether it’s Yellowstone, Rocky Mountain or Badlands, is an experience you won’t soon forget, but sometimes it’s nice to have something tangible to remember your trips by. Commemorate your favorite trails, most exciting wildlife encounters and million-dollar views with a hand-illustrated Xplorer Map of your favorite park. Artist Chris Robitaille hand draws every line, letter and icon on each map and includes interesting details that will help cement your memories. On the map of Grand Teton, you’ll find wildlife like a mother grizzly with three cubs and a guide to local flowers and trees. On Yellowstone, you’ll find a beautiful rendering of Old Faithful erupting. Choose between an unframed 18x24” lithographic print, or a variety of custom framed options. Xplorer Maps’ beautiful designs can also be purchased on…

2 min.

The Outpost

1 Snowy Range Scenic Byway Hwy. 130 This stunning road enables you to bypass Interstate 80, taking you past glacial lakes, dazzling quartzite peaks, gorgeous meadows and over the second-highest mountain pass in Wyoming. The breathtaking route reaches its high point at 10,000 feet. It’s closed mid-November to Memorial Day weekend. Head to the Green Rock Trailhead to hike the 3.2-mile, moderate Barber Lake Trail or the more difficult Libby Creek Trail that’s 3 miles. For exceptional views and some rock scrambling, head to Gap Lakes Trail. 2 Wyoming Territorial Prison State Historic Site Go on a guided or self-guided tour of this historic prison site built in 1872. For three decades, it housed some of the West’s most notorious criminals. The property is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and…

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Nature’s Medicine

When you drive the 29-mile Snowy Range Scenic Byway through the Medicine Bow National Forest, you’ll experience alpine lakes and granite peaks, a landscape you’d never see if you simply took Interstate 80 from Laramie toward Yellowstone. For spectacular views, hike 5.5 miles to the top of Medicine Bow Peak. Keep an eye out for summer thunderstorms since most of the hike is exposed and aim to be back at the trailhead by mid-day. For equally gorgeous views without the climb, stop at Libby Flats Observation Point. When you reach Saratoga, stop at The Snowy Mountain Brewery, which may be the only one in the country with its own hot springs resort. Soak in the 70-foot mineral hot springs pool or the teepee-covered smaller mineral pools. Then dry off and sip great…

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Find Your Escape

Get off the highway and explore the authentic southern Wyoming towns that stretch from Chugwater to Glendo for sparkling lakes and history galore tucked into the plains. In Chugwater, stop at the mint green Chugwater Soda Fountain, the oldest in the state. It’s home to incredible strawberry milkshakes and cheeseburgers you won’t want to miss. Spend the day floating the Platte River. Buy a tube at Guernsey Mercantile and put in at West Bridge on Hwy. 26. The approximately one-hour float to Register Cliffs is mellow and the perfect way to enjoy a summer afternoon. At Register Cliffs, you’ll see the names of hundreds of pioneers who took the Oregon Trail west carved into the rock. Also in Guernsey, you can see six-foot-deep paths in the sandstone carved by Oregon Trail…

2 min.

At the Crossroads

1 Experience Unexpected Culture Enjoy everything Casper has to offer, from its 100-year-old art scene to local music and food at the 5150 Festival in August. FUN FACT: 5150 is Casper’s elevation. 2 Touch History Independence Rock was an important landmark for west-bound pioneers. Countless names are carved into the awe-inspiring rock, which is now a designated State Historic Site. FUN FACT: Casper sits at the intersection of the Oregon, California and Mormon trails and the Pony Express route. 3 Quench Your Thirst Take a hike on the Ale Trail. Casper is home to eight breweries, the most in the state. Download a free passport at VisitCasper.com/local-ale-trail/ to get deals and discounts. TIP: If beer isn’t your thing, visit Backwards Distilling Co., for a handcrafted cocktail. 4 Try On Cowboy Boots A trip out west wouldn’t be complete without cowboy boots.…

3 min.

6 Ways to Experience the West

1 Drive a Stunning Scenic Canyon Half an hour south of Buffalo, bring your high-clearance vehicle to explore Crazy Woman Canyon. This gorgeous scenic drive is a dirt road through a canyon full of towering cliffs that follows Crazy Woman Creek. Allow at least two hours for a leisurely tour and longer if you plan to picnic or fish the creek’s waters. If you’re not traveling in a high-clearance vehicle, rent an ATV or side-by-side from Ultimate Outdoors in Buffalo. 2 Learn About the Cattle War Buffalo was home to the infamous 1892 Johnson County War. Learn more about this fascinating conflict between the cattle barons of southern Wyoming and small cattle operators in Buffalo at the Hoofprints of the Past Museum in Kaycee. Then, head north on Old Hwy. 87 toward Buffalo…

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Heartbreak on Heart Mountain

When President Franklin D. Roosevelt ordered all people with Japanese ancestry to be removed from the West Coast during World War II, more than 14,000 Japanese Americans ended up behind barbed wire at Heart Mountain Relocation Center. The first incarcerees arrived via train on August 12, 1942. The last left the center in November 1945. Today, stop by the Heart Mountain Interpretive Center to learn more about the Japanese and Japanese Americans who were forcibly moved from Washington, Oregon and California where they lived. There’s a museum, gallery and theater. Then head outdoors to the walking trail to see a war memorial and original camp structures. “It’s a really important piece of American history,” says Kate Wilson of Heart Mountain Interpretive Center. “A lot of people don’t know about it or don’t know…

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Prohibition & Planes

Back in the day, bootleggers stashed liquor in tunnels they built underneath the heart of Greybull’s downtown, or so the legend goes. Today, you can visit the Historic Hotel Greybull and see the renovated speakeasy that was ground zero for an illegal liquor operation during Prohibition. Owners Myles Foley and Lori Davis finished renovations in 2011 that celebrate the hotel’s storied past but include modern amenities. Below the hotel, you’ll find The Speakeasy Restaurant, which still has the original buttons used to alert employees when the authorities were on the way. Reservations are recommended. Catch a glimpse of another era of history when you walk among World War II bombers that later became firefighting planes. The planes and exhibits on the history of firefighting are at the Museum of Flight and Aerial…

2 min.

Buffalo Bill’s Cody

1 The Irma Hotel Built in 1902 and named after Buffalo Bill Cody’s youngest daughter, this historic hotel is open for tours, overnight stays and dining. Head to the hotel’s restaurant to order a cold Buffalo Bill Beer and admire the original cherrywood bar Queen Victoria of England gave to Buffalo Bill. 2 Cody Nite Rodeo Celebrate 80-plus years of Western heritage at the world’s longest running rodeo every night June 1 through August 31. Doors open at 7 p.m., and the rodeo starts at 8 p.m. Buy your tickets in advance online or at one of 30 retailers in Cody who sell them. 3 Kirwin Ghost Town This historic mining town surrounded by breathtaking mountain peaks lasted until 1907, when a savage snowstorm struck, leading most of the population to relocate. Today it’s totally…

2 min.

East Entrance Experiences

These days, there seems to be a food truck pulling up to a sidewalk near you, no matter where you go. But just east of Yellowstone, you can get served from the oldest kitchen on wheels in the country—the chuckwagon. In 1866, Charles Goodnight invented the chuckwagon, a covered wagon that carried food, water, cooking tools and a dutch oven. It revolutionized meal time for cowboys who previously had to scramble for food on long cattle drives. Today, watch your dinner get prepared al fresco at the Chuckwagon Dinner at the Buffalo Bill Center of the West in Cody. It’s one of many experiences you can have at this Smithsonian-affiliated complex that’s home to world-class art, remarkable American Indian artifacts, raptor experiences and cultural exhibits. The 300,000-square-foot complex offers five separate museums,…

2 min.

Sweet Dreams

Jackson Lake Lodge A 385-room lodge with hotel rooms and cottages, a heated swimming pool and several restaurants in the middle of the park, Jackson Lake Lodge gives you a classic Grand Teton experience. Be sure to make reservations to eat dinner in The Mural Dining Room, where you can watch the sunset over the Tetons from floor-to-ceiling panoramic windows. Colter Bay Village Sleep in historic, refurbished homesteader cabins relocated from various places in Wyoming, or stay in tent cabins on the shores of Jackson Lake. You can also pull your RV into one of 112 campsites or pitch your tent.* Staying here gives you easy access to a general store, kayaking, horseback riding and more. Jenny Lake Lodge Luxury awaits at this lodge on the shores of picturesque Jenny Lake in the form of…

2 min.

Grand Teton’s Top 6

1 Cruise Jackson Lake Take a scenic boat ride on Jackson Lake departing from the Colter Bay Marina. If you opt for a meal cruise, you’ll dock and get out on beautiful Elk Island to dine where you’ll get a totally unique perspective of the park. Book at GTLC.com. 2 Hike to Phelps Lake Hike this beautiful 5.8-mile loop to an alpine lake that leaves from the Laurence S. Rockefeller Preserve. Wander along the Aspen Ridge Trail through fluttering trees and boulder fields until you get to Phelps Lake. You’ll get views of Death Canyon along the shore. Take Boulder Ridge Trail back. 3 Drive Teton Park Road Spot wildlife and stop for a picnic on this 21-mile scenic drive in the park. It stretches from Moose to Jackson Lake Junction. 4 Visit Mormon Row Founded in…

2 min.

Big Mountain Fun

1 Via Ferrata Unlike the world-renowned expert climbing routes in the Tetons, the Via Ferrata makes mountain climbing accessible for families and individuals looking for adventure. Accompanied by a guide, you’ll secure yourself to cables and move across a mountain face by way of metal ladders, rope walkways and ledges. Book in advance a full-day climb (five hours) with lunch included or a partial-day climb (three hours) that enables you to sample some of the routes without lunch. 2 Aerial Tram Take the tram and soar 4,139 vertical feet, passing the notorious Corbet’s Couloir on your way to the summit. Experience 360-degree views of both the Tetons and Jackson Hole’s valley floor. Once at the summit, enjoy world-famous waffles at Corbet’s Cabin, as well as a wide variety of hiking, running, climbing and…

1 min.

Raft the Snake

Celebrating nearly 60 years of experience and an outstanding safety record, Barker Ewing by Jackson Hole Whitewater offers a great trip on the Snake River for the young and the young at heart. The company offers fun and family-friendly seven-mile float trips down the Snake River. The float trips last 2.5 to 3 hours and begin at the historic Snake River Ranch and end at Wilson Bridge. The views along the way are outstanding. Make reservations in advance by calling 307-733-1007, online at Barker-Ewing.com, or stop by the office in town square, where Barker Ewing has a reservation desk. Ask about their whitewater rafting trips in the Snake River Canyon. Learn more at Barker-Ewing.com.…

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Prehistoric Gems

Drive south of Grand Teton National Park, and you’ll stumble on a wonderfully uncrowded national monument unlike any you’ve visited. Fossil Butte National Monument is a unique National Park Service gem 15 miles west of the Kemmerer/Diamondville area (pronounced “Kemmer”). Instead of the huge mountain peaks of the parks to its north, you’ll discover a high desert landscape that’s home to incredibly preserved fossils of ancient turtles, birds, snakes and more. In fact, the monument was created in 1972 to protect these ancient animals and plants. Start in the visitor center for exhibits on more than 300 fossils, including a crocodile, found in the ancient, 48-million-year-old Fossil Lake, which is now dry. Then, head out to the 2.5-mile Historic Quarry Trail lined by trailside exhibits about wildlife, plants and geology. It’s forbidden…

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Desert Oasis

Cool down in the heat of summer by renting a stand-up paddleboard at Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area in Utah. A number of wakeless paddling trails near the dam and near Sheep Creek Overlook enable you to explore canyons that rise anywhere between 100 and 1,000 feet. You won’t even have to worry about waves from motorized boats. “It’s really spectacular,” says Ryan Kelly, Flaming Gorge marketing director. “It’s a great way to get that deep canyon experience without going on a commercial trip downstream.” Below the Flaming Gorge Dam runs a mellow stretch of the Green River that’s great for family float trips. Rent a raft and journey seven miles downstream to Little Hole takeout where a pre-arranged shuttle can pick you up. Or rent a houseboat to explore the 91-mile-long reservoir. For…

2 min.

Dinos & Deserts

Hugging the Utah-Colorado border and home to part of Dinosaur National Monument, Vernal, Utah is the place for all kinds of dinosaur lovers—from the casual Jurassic Park fan to those who know the difference between Triassic and Cretaceous. As soon as you drive into town, you’ll see a giant pink dinosaur welcoming you to “Utah’s Dinosaur Land.” “We like to say, ‘come for the dinosaurs, stay for the adventure,’” says Uintah County tourism and events director, Lesha Coltharp. It’s an apt piece of advice, because in Vernal you’ll find plenty of both. Turn to page 53 to learn more about what to do in the monument, then head to Red Fleet State Park where you can enjoy any number of outdoor activities. Hit the trails on a mountain bike and tackle the…

1 min.

Dinosaur National Monument

John Wesley Powell began his journey to the Grand Canyon on the Green River through what’s now Dinosaur National Monument in 1869. More than 150 years later, you can still experience that sense of adventure and awe on the stunning Green and Yampa rivers in the monument. Or, you can go even further back in time and see the ancient inhabitants this spot was named for—well, their bones at least. Hike from the Quarry Visitor Center to the Quarry Exhibit Hall along the 1.2-mile Fossil Discovery Trail. You’ll see three fossil areas along the way before reaching the exhibit hall. Here, you’ll be awestruck by a wall of 1,500 dinosaur bones and get the chance to touch fossils that are 150 million years old. Skip the walk back and ride the…

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Wet & Wild

A little off the beaten path and away from the crowds, Moffat County encompasses the towns of Craig, Maybell, Hamilton, Massadona and Lay and is home to two-thirds of Dinosaur National Monument (See more on pg. 53). The Green River and Yampa River meet in Dinosaur National Monument, and the canyons are a sight to see. To raft the Yampa outside the monument, reach out to Good Vibes Rafting Gear. A Yampa River Access brochure lists all launches from Steamboat Springs to Dinosaur National Monument and is available through Good Vibes Rafting or Visit Moffat County. Both the Green River and Yampa River offer single and multi-day adventures, which enable you to experience the region in a unique and adventurous way. “It’s absolutely gorgeous,” says Tom Kleinschnitz, Visit Moffat County’s tourism director. “The…

2 min.

Montana Magic

In Yellowstone, unhurried bison roam past shooting geysers. Wolves hunt in the dawn light and a massive lake stretches to the horizon. Five hundred miles north, on the Canadian border, lush forests give way to alpine lakes with colorful rocks making up their shores in Glacier National Park. Grizzly bears roam underneath ancient glaciers while towering peaks guard stunning valleys. These two incredible parks might be what draw you to Montana, but the real magic lies in the small towns, fascinating history, amazing trails and famous big skies in between. Start in Bozeman, a vibrant, outdoorsy town with a great local food and beverage scene. As you drive south to Yellowstone, you’ll get the chance to experience some of the West’s most incredible rivers whether you choose to float them, tackle their…

2 min.

Whatever Floats Your Boat

You can’t see all of Yellowstone by car in one day, so we have a tip for you: don’t try. Plan to spend at least a half day out of your car rafting the Yellowstone River with Wild West Rafting or Flying Pig Rafting next to Yellowstone’s North Entrance. Both companies share the same owners and offer half-day, full-day and overnight trips, plus excursions that offer a horseback riding and rafting combination. “There’s no better way to experience the beauty of the area and the beauty of Montana than in a raft,” says Thomas Davis, co-owner of Wild West Rafting based in Gardiner, noting the Yellowstone River is the largest undammed river in the Lower 48. Plus, you’ll be floating along the border of Yellowstone National Park for the first four miles of…

1 min.

I’ll Be Your Huckleberry

“Drink local” is the motto of Bozeman Spirits Distillery in downtown Bozeman. And there may be no better locally concocted cocktail than the distillery’s Montana Huckleberry Mule. Made with huckleberry-flavored vodka, it’s served in a copper mug in the saloon-inspired tasting room. Using local grains as often as possible, the distillery produces whiskey, vodka, gin and rum, all distilled and bottled on site. And if you like what you’re sipping, bring a taste of Montana home with you. Purchase a bottle on site or throughout Montana, Wyoming, Idaho and North Dakota. Stop by Bozeman Spirits at 121 W. Main St. or go online at BozemanSpirits.com.…

1 min.

A Serene Soak

Soaking in the peaceful pools of Yellowstone Hot Springs Resort, you’d never know you were just eight miles from Yellowstone’s North Entrance in Gardiner. Opened in March 2019, the hot springs are tucked off the highway just 100 feet from the Yellowstone River. Here you’ll feel worlds away from the hustle and bustle of the park. One-hundred-and-fifty-degree water is pumped a mile and a half from the hot springs to feed five pools, a 105° F hot plunge, a 98° F warm pool, a 68° F cold plunge and two Kneipp pools to rejuvenate the whole body. Kneipp pools, while popular in Europe, are rarely found in the U.S. Two parallel, shallow pools—one hot and one cold— are lined with river rocks. When you walk through the pools, the rocks and…

2 min.

Where the Wild Things Are

Locals in Gardiner like to say Yellowstone’s north gate, just five miles down the road, is ‘nature’s favorite entrance.’ While we can’t speak for the wildlife, it seems an apt statement. Elk wander the streets in summer and bison amble through town in search of lower elevations as winter sets in. This town is also a favorite of visitors of the human variety, thanks to its close proximity to incredible outdoor recreation. With the Yellowstone River running through, getting out on the water is a must. Go on a whitewater rafting or float trip (see pages 58 and 61), or enjoy the serenity of the river on its banks as you soak in Yellowstone Hot Springs Resort. You can combine rafting with horseback riding through the gorgeous landscape with several companies…

1 min.

Like Waves in the Ocean

Not so long ago, the plains that the road trips in these pages cross were home to a vast sea of bison. “It would have been as easy to count or to estimate the number of leaves in a forest as to calculate the number of buffaloes living at any given time during the history of the species,” said William T. Hornady, the superintendent of the National Zoological Park. But by the early 1900s, the U.S.’ wild bison population had dwindled to two dozen animals that wintered in Yellowstone. Bison were an integral part of the way of life of many Native American tribes who lived on the plains. In the 1800s, the U.S. Army began a campaign to remove tribes from their ancestral lands. One way they did this was…

1 min.

Raft Montana

Offering everything from rafting trips to horseback riding and ziplining courses, Montana Whitewater has an adventure for you. If you’ve never rafted before, choose the Yellowstone River trip where the put-in is in Gardiner, or opt for a shuttle-assisted tubing trip down the Madison River. Adrenaline seekers will find their hearts pumping through the infamous Mad Mile of continuous class IV rapids along the Gallatin River in between Big Sky and Bozeman. And if you want a full-day wilderness experience down the remote Bear Trap Canyon, opt for the Madison River trip. You can even do the popular Zip and Dip packages, enabling you to spend half your day rafting and the other half ziplining. Otherwise, stay high and dry and ride a zipline over a river or above a historic Montana…

1 min.

The Cold Never Bothered Me Anyway

In December, the crowds disperse and Yellowstone is transformed into a winter wonderland. Steaming geysers, frost-covered bison and quiet trails await for those who brave the cold to experience winter in Yellowstone. Most park roads close to normal vehicle traffic in November. The only road you can access is the one between the North and Northeast entrances, which accesses Mammoth Hot Springs and Lamar Valley. The Mammoth Hotel, located at this entrance, is one of two open in the park in winter. To explore the rest of the park, you’ll need to book a snowcoach or snowmobile ride. A snowcoach is a shuttle van on giant snow tires, or tracks like a snowmobile. These vehicles are designed to navigate the park’s unplowed roads. Tours will take you to ski and snowshoe…

1 min.

Sleep Near the Park

Stay tantalizingly close to the park but within walking distance of West Yellowstone’s shops and restaurants at four lodging options under the umbrella of Yellowstone Vacations. In the cozy Explorer Cabins, you’ll find small kitchenettes, binoculars and walking sticks. At Gray Wolf Inn & Suites, there’s an indoor heated pool and fun facts about wolves in the elevator and hallways. You may even hear real wolves howling from the Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center across the street. The bonus for dog lovers? Holiday Inn West Yellowstone, Gray Wolf Inn & Suites and the Explorer Cabins have pet-friendly rooms, the latter two without additional fees (see the park’s pet policy on page 11). Yellowstone Park Hotel, home to a gorgeous lobby with a fireplace, does not allow pets. Want to spend more time in the…

1 min.

West Yellowstone Sights

This town sits at the West Entrance to Yellowstone. Along with easy access to the park and a number of year round lodging options to choose from, there are fun activities right in town. Missed seeing a grizzly in Yellowstone? You’re guaranteed to see one at the Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center, a nonprofit wildlife educational and research facility minutes from the park. Then head to the Yellowstone Giant Screen where you can discover the park in a totally different way with the movie Yellowstone projected on a six-story-high screen. Don’t miss seeing one of the West’s long-lived traditions at Wild West Yellowstone Rodeo. During the summer, there are between four to six rodeos a week, beginning at 8 p.m. Tickets are available online and at the gate. Finally, lasso the fun at…

2 min.

Best Basecamp

If there was ever a town that truly lived up to its name, it’s Big Sky. It’s tucked in the flanks of the green mountains that roll up to Big Sky Resort, a huge ski area with 39 chairlifts and nearly 6,000 skiable acres. Born in 1973 when the ski resort was created, Big Sky is a relatively new town where you’ll find easy-going people who love sharing where they live with folks who visit. You come here for the two Rs, say the locals. The first is recreation like hiking, biking, rafting and in the winter, skiing. The other R is relaxation. You recharge. You rejuvenate before you go home. Big Sky is perfectly situated between Yellowstone National Park and Bozeman, the latter being a major hub for Yellowstone travelers to fly…

2 min.

Seven Secrets

1 Virginia City Players Theatre Co. Sit back in this historic theater in Virginia City and be entertained by 1800s-era melodramas and vaudeville variety acts. You can purchase a drink at the Bale of Hay Saloon next door and bring it into the theater. 2 Grant-Kohrs Ranch National Historic Site Once the headquarters of a 10-million-acre cattle empire, this National Historic Site in Deer Lodge offers tours of the ranch home built in 1862. You can explore the bunkhouse, blacksmith shop, horse barns and cattle sheds. Spend time with the horses, chickens and cows on site. 3 Butte Trolley Tour Ride the trolley to hear about Butte’s colorful history and present-day attractions, including the Copper King Mansion and the Berkeley Pit Viewing Stand. Afterwards, visitors can go 65 feet underground into the Orphan Girl Mine…

1 min.

Boom Town

In 1896, this tiny town nestled into the folds of Montana’s gentle hillsides produced a quarter of the world’s supply of copper and half of the United States’ supply, according to the Mining History Association. Take the Butte Trolley Tour to learn about the city’s colorful history and see the largest National Historic Landmark District in the West. Butte’s buildings have stunning architectural details that masons at the turn-of-the-century painstakingly created. The tour also brings you by the Copper King Mansion where you can spend the night. The 34-room abode was home to W.A. Clark, a Butte mining giant who was one of the world’s richest men in 1900. The house cost an estimated $500,000 to build at the time, which is more than $17.6 million in 2023. Visit the Berkeley Pit,…

1 min.

Phenomenal Philipsburg

With overflowing flower baskets and gorgeously restored historic buildings lining its main street, Philipsburg is one of Montana’s most magical locales. Once a booming mining town, it’s the kind of place that makes you want to sit on one of its sidewalk benches and watch the world go by. But first, explore the town’s enormous handmade candy store, The Sweet Palace, which is a destination in its own right. Amid the Victorian-era decor, you’ll find 50 kinds of fudge, 20 types of caramel and incredible treats like Dark Chocolate Premium Moose Truffles made with Moose Drool Brown Ale by Big Sky Brewing Co. Next door is The Sapphire Gallery where you can literally sift through dirt to find sapphires. When you buy a bag of gravel containing local sapphires, staff will screen…

1 min.

3 Stops

Philipsburg Brewing Co. Founded in 2012, this brewery is housed in a historic bank building built in 1888. Referred to as The Vault, this popular watering hole with award winning beers uses Montana malt and local spring water in its brews. Stop for a pint and chat with locals and other travelers. Granite Ghost Town State Park This state park was home to what was known as the “richest silver mine on Earth.” Opened in 1872, the mine yielded $40,000,000 and was home to 3,000 miners before the price of silver crashed. The Granite Mine Superintendent’s House is still there, along with ruins of Union Hall. The narrow and steep road from Philipsburg gains 1,280 feet in elevation. The Philipsburg Theatre Established in 1891, this is the oldest operating theater in Montana. If there’s a…

1 min.

Magnificent Missoula

Unique, cool, serene, welcoming and replete with natural beauty—Missoula is Montana’s best university town. Head to the Clark Fork River next to Caras Park where you can watch river surfers, kayakers and the occasional brave tubers tackle Brennan’s Wave, a human-made water feature. Or, discover a variety of art galleries and eclectic public art to be found throughout the city. The Missoula Art Museum offers free admission, and the Montana Museum of Art and Culture can be found on the University of Montana campus. Perhaps one of the most beautiful pieces of public art are the hand-carved ponies at A Carousel for Missoula located in Caras Park. The 38 ponies and two chariots were carved by volunteers who put in more than 100,000 hours before the carousel opened in 1995. Fourteen…

2 min.

Road to Glacier

The road from Missoula to Glacier National Park is full of incredible towns and sights, not all of which are apparent if you never leave the road. To start, visit the Farmers Market in Missoula. Afterward, check out Missoula’s burgeoning art scene at Missoula Art Museum, Radius Gallery and Allez!. In Moiese, you’ll find the Bison Range on the Flathead Indian Reservation. Management of this 18,500-acre conservation area was transferred to the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes in 2022. Roughly 350 bison live on the range, along with elk, bears, abundant birds and more. Three scenic drives and a nature trail let you get out and explore. Continue north on Hwy. 93 for another 30 minutes until you reach Ninepipes Lodge in Charlo where you can dine at Allentown Restaurant on the…

11 min.

The Quest for a more Adventurous Life

I don’t remember what exactly planted the idea in my head that we should quit our jobs, put our furniture in storage and travel North America in our 1998 Subaru Legacy, but the moment we decided to do it is ingrained in my brain. It was, incidentally, also the moment I discovered paprika. Two kids, barely 21 years old, sitting in a booth at a fancy-to-us restaurant (because, big life decisions are better made somewhere that feels important), poking suspiciously at a dish dusted in red powder. It was January and our apartment lease ended on June 30. My boyfriend, Topher, and I looked at each other over the table and confirmed yes, we were going to do this. It was the most adventurous decision we’d ever made. It had been only…

1 min.

Do I Need a Reservation?

If you’re visiting Glacier during peak season in 2023, you’ll need a $2 vehicle reservation in addition to your park pass. From May 26 through September 10, reservations are needed for Going-to-the-Sun Road and the North Fork areas of the park from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. The Many Glacier and Two Medicine areas of the park will require them in the same timeframe, July 1 through September 10. Going-to-the-Sun reservations are good for three days and all others are good for one day. Reservations become available 120 days in advance at 8 a.m. on Recreation.gov and are expected to sell-out quickly. A small amount will be released the day before, on the same website. If you have a lodging, camping or tour reservation within the restricted areas, these can…

2 min.

Montana’s Heart

Havre might look like a classic western town, but there’s a fascinating twist to its history. In 1904, a viscous fire swept through downtown, destroying almost every building in the bustling frontier outpost. Business owners moved underground while reconstruction took place. Ten blocks of passageways were home to a subterranean saloon, laundry, brothel and more. Later, the passageways were used by bootleggers during Prohibition. Today, the passageways have been refurbished as a tourist attraction: “Havre Beneath the Streets.” Stop by 120 3rd Avenue to get tickets for daily tours between 9:30 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. in the summer and between 10:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m. every day but Sundays in the winter. Fort Benton is one of the oldest towns in Montana, and its historic downtown still holds onto its charm. Check…

2 min.

A Town to Fall For

Start your day in Great Falls by hitting the trails. Explore the River’s Edge Trail, 56 miles of mixed pavement and singletrack following the beautiful Missouri River. Pick up a trail map at Great Falls Montana Tourism at 15 Overlook Drive and choose your adventure. You can walk or bike to view Great Falls’ five namesake waterfalls and four dams. If you didn’t travel with your own bike, rentals are available in town. Along the River’s Edge Trail is the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center where you can pull a canoe against the Missouri River’s strong current to see what Lewis and Clark were up against when they passed through the area. The center is unique in that it covers the entire landmark 1804-06 journey. It also tells the stories of their…

2 min.

Welcome to Helena

Take a stroll down Last Chance Gulch—Helena’s downtown walking mall—on a summer afternoon and you’ll hear the chords of live music floating up into the blue Montana sky. Locals and visitors alike are enjoying the summer weather alongside a beer. Kids are licking ice cream cones and dogs are waiting patiently to clean up any drips. Mountain bikers come off the trails and park their bikes next to the brewery. It’s a community space where you’ll instantly feel welcome. It’s also a place that’s rich in history—after all, this is Montana’s capital. Join the Foundation for Montana History for the “Breweries and Brothels” walking tour where you’ll learn the history of Helena, its brewing scene and the red-light districts that used to dot town. The tour reveals a fascinating history lying just…

2 min.

Plains to Peaks

Meadowlarks, their yellow bellies glowing in the sun, sing their distinctive song. Blue skies stretch as far as the eye can see over rolling prairies that give way to badlands and forests. President Theodore Roosevelt said of his home in North Dakota that’s now his namesake national park, “it was here that the romance of my life began.” The plains hold many beautiful things, if you look closely. Road trip from Chicago or fly into Rapid City Regional Airport in South Dakota where five diverse national park sites lie within a few hours of each other. At Badlands National Park wildlife is abundant, from bighorn lambs leaping over colorful rock formations to bison grazing in a sea of grass and prairie dogs chirping their warnings. Go underground at Wind and Jewel caves,…

3 min.

Badlands Top 6

1 Watch the Sunrise Taking in the first rays of light illuminating the colorful rock formations is an unforgettable Badlands experience. Head to Big Badlands Overlook, a short and easy drive from Interstate 90, 30 minutes before dawn to catch the moment the sun crests the horizon. 2 Go on a Scenic Drive One of the best ways to take in the park’s scenery is by driving the paved, 38-mile Badlands Loop Road, also known as Hwy. 240. It’s the main road through the park. With scenic overlooks, trailheads and picnic areas along the way, you can make it as long or as short of an adventure as you like. Don’t miss White River Valley Overlook, Panorama Point, Yellow Mounds Pullout and Pinnacles Overlook. 3 See the Fossil Preparation Lab This park, which was once…

1 min.

The City of Presidents

Looking for the fastest way to get to five of South Dakota’s stunning national park sites? You’ll want to fly the most direct route, into Rapid City Regional Airport. From there, drive less than an hour to reach the towering presidential heads of Mount Rushmore National Memorial, Crazy Horse Memorial, the underground wonderlands of Jewel Cave National Monument and Wind Cave National Park, the awe-inspiring geology of Badlands National Park and the hidden nuclear history at the Minuteman Missile National Historic Site. With five major airlines serving the airport, there are many ways to get to Rapid City, giving you plenty of time to explore the entire region. There are also six on-site rental car agencies to choose from, so you can road trip from the airport. Make Rapid City your basecamp for…

1 min.

Underground Wonderland

President Theodore Roosevelt, who fell in love with the Dakotas, designated Wind Cave National Park the seventh in the system in 1903. With 150 miles of passageways surveyed so far, it’s the sixth longest cave on Earth. On average, two new miles of cave are discovered every year. To go inside Wind Cave, you’ll need to purchase a tour ticket. Advanced reservations are available at Recreation.gov for some tours and are highly recommended. Options range from a 30-minute wheelchair accessible tour to a four-hour, strenuous tour that takes you into an undeveloped part of the cave. Be sure to read the description of all the tours before choosing one to ensure it’s the right fit for you. Above ground you’ll find abundant wildlife including 400-500 roaming bison. Their history is fascinating. After…

3 min.

Rapid City Guide

If you’re looking for a basecamp to explore five iconic national park sites in South Dakota, stop and stay in Rapid City while you’re in the Black Hills. Start your day off by having breakfast at Black Hills Bagels, a Rapid City favorite with two locations. If you’re in a hurry, go to the one on Haines Avenue which has a drive-thru. You’ll find classic bagels and cream cheese, with some fun twists, along with breakfast and lunch sandwiches, salads and espresso drinks. A block away is Main Street Square where there’s splash pads for kids and 150 events per year. Between 6th and 7th and Main and Saint Joseph streets, you can walk Art Alley where local artists have painted vibrant murals. Afterwards, take a stroll past the 43 life-sized bronze…

1 min.

A Monumental Moment

On June 3, 1948, five survivors of the Battle of the Little Bighorn looked up as the first blast on Thunderhead Mountain took place to start work on Crazy Horse Memorial. Lakota Chief Henry Standing Bear, on behalf of his elders, had asked sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski to carve a memorial in honor of all Native Americans. The massive sculpture emerging from the granite is of Oglala Lakota leader Crazy Horse. Fighting to preserve his peoples’ way of life, Crazy Horse was a revered strategist and led his warriors to victory at the Battle of the Little Bighorn in 1876. Seventy-three years after the first blast, you can still see crews working on the memorial, drilling, carving and removing rock three-quarters of a mile from the visitor complex. The Mountain Carving Gallery offers…

2 min.

Sturgis Stop

Sturgis is known for its incredible marquis events. And while the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally is its most storied, there’s far more to this town of 7,000 than a 10-day motorcycle festival. Sturgis hosts 30-plus events year round, from Camaro and Mustang car rallies to a weekly summer concert series. Plus, the town is within a short drive to all of the Black Hills’ greatest hits. “Often times, people think that all we have to offer is a 10-day rally in August. But we are central to all the sites people want to see in the Black Hills,” said Sturgis Rally & Events director Tammy Even-Cordell. “We’re just minutes from historic Deadwood, beautiful Spearfish Canyon and sacred Bear Butte.” And if you want a true local’s tip, visit in the spring or fall…

1 min.

The Wild, Wild West

Sundance offers a deep dive into history and stunning natural beauty. Notorious historical figure Harry Longabaugh did his first prison stint in Sundance, which led to his nickname, “The Sundance Kid.” During the Sip N Walk Historical Tour, meet him and other historical figures played by locals as you stroll downtown with your complimentary adult beverage. Call the Crook County Museum for tour prices and to sign up at 307-283-3666. In Sundance Square right next to the museum, you’ll find a statue of the Sundance Kid, a playground and splash pad for kids, plus restrooms and picnic tables. Beyond the square browse Bruce Seidel Gallery, which sells wildlife art, landscape art and more. Then hit the trails on horseback with Seven J Outfitters. Mountain bikers and hikers can head to the Reuter Trailhead…

3 min.

Gillette’s Top Six

1 Tour Durham Bison Ranch This 55,000-acre ranch populated with 3,000 bison has been in the Flocchini family for three generations and is one of the largest bison operations in the world. Take a 1.5 to 2-hour tour on board an 18-passenger bus and learn how the Flocchinis holistically manage their herd. You literally drive into the middle of the bison herd to learn about them. Call the Campbell County Convention & Visitors Bureau at 307-686-0040 to sign up for a tour. 2 Explore Devils Tower National Monument Devils Tower is a 867-foot pillar beckoning everyone from Native Americans to geology buffs to rock climbers to come closer. It’s about an hour’s drive from Gillette. Take in the sights and sounds, and learn more about the remarkable cultural and natural history surrounding the…

1 min.

Soaking Secret

See herds of bison and soak in hot springs for free without Yellowstone’s crowds in Hot Springs State Park in Thermopolis, just under 2.5 hours east of Yellowstone. After driving through the park to see bison, unwind in the park’s free Bath House, which has 104° F water. Then float the Bighorn River by renting an inner tube and life jacket from Rent Adventure, which offers a tubing shuttle service. Your float could take between 2-4 hours, depending on water flow. In East Thermopolis, look for the legendary Shorty’s Saloon. Step out of the river and head to Shorty’s for food and drinks on the patio. At Hot Springs County Museum & Cultural Center, you can see a horse-drawn carriage used as a Yellowstone taxi and one of Wyoming’s largest American Indian…

1 min.

The Scenic Route

The best way over the Bighorn Mountains on the way to Yellowstone is U.S. Hwy. 16, known as the Sweet 16. Passing through Ten Sleep, it’s also known as the safest route because of the road’s gentle curves and lower-grade hills. For the camping enthusiast, the Bighorn National Forest has 32 different campgrounds and 14 picnic areas. Just 20 miles east of Ten Sleep on Hwy. 16, camp at the gorgeous Lake View Campground on the northern end of Meadowlark Lake. At Washakie Museum, see exhibits on Paleoindian mammoth hunters and Wyoming’s early settlers. The Last West exhibit covers cattle barons and the infamous Spring Creek Raid of 1909. There are plenty of hands-on activities for kids. This area attracts climbers who scale the limestone walls of Ten Sleep Canyon. After watching the…

2 min.

Feel the Wind on Your Face

Riverton Fly into Riverton on daily United flights from Denver to get to central Wyoming quicker. The cute downtown has a great shopping and dining scene and is a short drive to some of Wyoming’s earliest history at Castle Gardens Petroglyph Site.The road to the site can be rough, so a high-clearance vehicle is recommended. TIP: Riverton was home to the 1838 Mountain Man Rendezvous and holds a celebration each summer to commemorate the traders. The reenactment includes costumed participants, homemade crafts and more. Lander Lander is the heart of Wyoming’s outdoor community. Don’t miss a drive up to beautiful Sinks Canyon State Park where mystery shrouds the Popo Agie River as it disappears underground. The water takes several hours to reappear a quarter of a mile later. For more water fun, head to…

4 min.

Early Birds & Night Owls

Our country’s first national park is a haven for wildlife photographers, but it’s also a favorite among landscape and night sky enthusiasts. You’ll find that when you wake up early or stay up late, you’ll get some of the park’s most iconic spots all to yourself. We’ve compiled our favorite locations and tips from Tamron on how to get the best photos of this park at sunrise, sunset and deep into the night. Sunrise at Mammoth Hot Springs From the hotel and campground at Mammoth Hot Springs, or the nearby town of Gardiner, the beautiful travertine terraces are an easy early-morning shooting location. Because the area is surrounded by mountains, the moment the sun becomes visible over their tops will depend on where you’re standing. There’s two boardwalk loops to explore, so…

1 min.

Montana Charm

The quaint town of Red Lodge sits at the northeastern end of the Beartooth Highway, known as one of America’s most beautiful roads. Like something out of a storybook, Red Lodge is tucked under the slopes of its namesake ski resort and is filled with boutiques and eateries, innovative locals like the owners of Crazy Creek, the legless camp chair company and all the outdoor recreation you could wish for. Just five minutes from town, hop on the Silver Run Trail with your mountain bike. Four possible loops make this a build-your-own-excursion ride with options for most abilities from beginner to more advanced. This trail is also open to hikers. If you’d rather explore the area by saddle, book a trail ride with Elk River Outfitters. Choose from short, hourly rides or…

3 min.

Savor the City

There’s an airport, James Beard nominated restaurants, craft breweries and museums. But this is still Montana, which means Billings is also nestled amongst incredible outdoor recreation and the vast history of the American West. Get some fresh air as you explore two sites that tell the story of different parts of Montana’s history. Start at Pictograph Cave State Park, where you can walk a 0.75-mile loop to see three caves with documentation of prehistoric hunters dating back 2,000 years. In Pictograph Cave, 100 rock paintings are visible. At Pompey’s Pillar, you can see the only physical evidence of Lewis and Clark’s famed journey. A cartographer, Captain William Clark climbed the stone pillar to get sweeping views of the surrounding area. He carved his name and the date, July 25, 1806. In his…

1 min.

The Quieter Side

Surrounded by three gorgeous mountain ranges, Lewistown, Montana offers a quieter side of a state known for its wildness. When you stay at the boutique Calvert Hotel, you’ll feel that sense of relaxation. Located between Yellowstone and Glacier national parks, it’s the place to stay to get away from it all. “We offer touches of home paired with luxuries of vacation,” says KellyAnne Terry, general manager. You’ll notice the modern details like custom tile, Keurigs in the rooms and luxury bedding. A bountiful grab-n-go breakfast is the perfect way to fuel up for the day with homemade pastries, a custom blend of coffee from local roaster, Rising Trout, and more. But you’ll also feel the hotel’s historic charm from the moment you walk in. Built in 1917 as a dormitory for ranch children…

1 min.

Go Big in Southeast Montana

When you drive through the towns of Southeast Montana, like Billings, Glendive and Miles City, you’ll notice that the skies are big. Like, really, really big. Big Sky Country isn’t just a moniker for endless daydreaming. It also means that when the sun goes down, the stars are big, too. Eastern Montana has some of the darkest skies in the country. Head to Medicine Rocks State Park near Ekalaka or Makoshika State Park near Glendive to marvel at the Milky Way. Southeast Montana is also home to a sobering yet important piece of history, the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument, southeast of Billings. Learn about the battle between the Lakota and Cheyenne tribes and Lt. Col. Custer’s 7th Cavalry—one of the last armed American Indian efforts to protect their way of…

1 min.

West is Best

Start in Salt Lake City, a vibrant community set against the backdrop of snow-dusted peaks, capped by impossibly blue skies. From here, you’ll cross Utah, Idaho and Wyoming on your way to Yellowstone, escaping the crowds to see a side of the West that’s often overlooked. Hit wildflower-filled trails in Park City before discovering pioneer history as you make your way north to Logan. Across the border in Idaho, Fort Hall offers a glimpse into the culture of the Shoshone-Bannock tribes. If Idaho makes you think potatoes, stop in Blackfoot to learn everything there is to know about this humble tuber. Then, dive into communities like Idaho Falls, St. Anthony and Ririe where you’ll discover that this state is so much more than just fields of spuds. As you approach the Tetons…

2 min.

The Center of It All

Less than a mile from Temple Square, a reminder of the city’s traditional roots, is Caffe d’Bolla. While going to a coffee shop should be an experience, at Caffe d’Bolla, the coffee itself is experiential. With special batch, single origin coffees and unique brew methods, you’ll want to allot plenty of time to enjoy your morning cup. This is the juxtaposition that is Salt Lake City. A vibrant and welcoming metropolis, you’ll find innovative restaurants against the backdrop of the Wasatch Range. Home to world-class outdoor recreation, and pioneer history, the city also appears on the list of America’s 10 Queerest Cities (The Advocate). “Things you wouldn’t think go together just do here,” says Visit Salt Lake director of content, Sean Buckley. Experience the great outdoors at Antelope Island State Park, an hour…

2 min.

Follow Your Trail

From mountain biking to al fresco dining to live music, Park City, Utah, has a something for everyone. Outdoor enthusiasts should head to Cole Sport, a one-stop shop for local advice, gear and rentals. Then, hit the city’s 400-plus miles of trails on bike or on foot to get a taste of this mountain town. The 4.7-mile Silver Lake Trail is a hiker-only destination ending in gorgeous valley views and the nearby, moderate Flagstaff Loop offers the same views atop a mountain bike. If you have kids, point yourself toward Park City Mountain Resort, a world-class ski destination in winter, headquarters of family fun in summer. With an alpine slide, zipline and mountain coaster, your little ones will be all smiles at the end of the day. Deer Valley Resort offers…

1 min.

Go Local

Catch a glimpse into pioneer living, enjoy live theater performances and stroll a charming downtown with a stop in Logan. Go back in time at the 160-acre American West Heritage Center in nearby Wellsville. You’ll find interpreters in period clothing to help you learn about life in the Mountain Man Camp, mock-settlements and a working farm straight from 1917. Then, stroll the newly renovated center of historic downtown Logan at Main and Center streets. “It looks like something out of a Hallmark movie,” says Cache Valley Visitors Bureau director Julie Hollist Terrill of the quaint street dotted with colorful hanging baskets and outdoor dining. Stop by the Bluebird Candy Factory where you’ll see handmade chocolate and candy being created at this Logan landmark. Candy has been hand-dipped here since 1914. The area is well known…

2 min.

Take a Dip

Tucked into the rolling green hills of southeast Idaho, you’ll discover an off-the-radar gem worth exploring in charming Lava Hot Springs. Immerse yourself in world class hot springs in this quaint town year round. In the heart of town, you can soak in five wonderfully sulfur-free outdoor pools heated between 102 and 112° F by natural underground springs. In a nod to the wellness vibe of this community, a number of the hotels in the area also have their own private hot springs, spas and massage therapists. Head here mid-week for the best rates and least number of people. Spend time on the Portneuf River that flows through Lava Hot Springs by renting an inner tube at one of several stands next to the hot springs complex. Then, float downriver less than…

1 min.

Location, Location

Stop in Pocatello, a university town offering accessible trails, affordable lodging and camping in the heart of downtown. “We are two hours from Yellowstone, 1.5 hours from Jackson Hole and 2.5 hours from Sun Valley, so we are a great hub,” says local Caryn Elliott. “People can stay here and be on less crowded trails.” Take the Lower and Upper City Creek trails, part of the greater City Creek Management Area Trail System, for a 5.8-mile hike or mountain bike ride. The 1-mile AMI/ Kirkham Trail is paved and ADA accessible. You can also do a short hike up to the four pillars on Red Hill. Placed there in 1970 by Idaho State University, these pillars have become part of university tradition. The trail begins at the university just across the Student Union…

1 min.

Rest Easy

1 Shoshone- Bannock Casino Hotel Built in 2012, the hotel’s 156 rooms and 11 suites have 42-inch, flat-screen, high-definition TVs, complimentary Wi-Fi and give you access to a 24-hour fitness center, heated pool and hot tub. Rooms are decorated with Shoshone-Bannock tribal artwork. 2 Buffalo Meadows RV Park Twenty-seven pull-through spots are available with restrooms, showers and laundry facilities on site. You’ll have access to the hotel pool, fitness center and game room. Make reservations by calling 208-237-8774, ext. 3030. 3 Donzia Gift Shop You can buy authentic artwork, jewelry and crafts made by Shoshone-Bannock tribal artists here, including items with intricate beading. The Shoshone-Bannock tribes are known for their traditional beadwork techniques. 4 Camas Sports Grill Twenty-six TVs enable you to catch your favorite sports team as you dine inside the hotel. Try a Native American…

1 min.

Spud Stop

It saved Europeans from frequent famines. It was the first vegetable grown in space. There’s no better place to learn more about the magnificent, dirt-encrusted potato than at the Idaho Potato Museum in Blackfoot. “We have a big display on how it changed the world,” says Tish Dahmen, executive director of the Idaho Potato Museum. She notes the Spanish brought it back to Europe after conquering the Incas in Peru in the late 1500s. At first, Europeans eyed it suspiciously. For some food for thought, grab a bite to eat at the museum’s quaint Potato Station Cafe where you can order baked potatoes (call ahead two hours for these), fries, potato salad and more. Visit the Idaho Potato Museum, 130 NW Main Street in Blackfoot or go to IdahoPotatoMuseum.com.…

2 min.

On the Fly

1 Get to Yellowstone Faster Fly into Idaho Falls Regional Airport on one of 16 direct routes from big cities across the U.S. like Dallas and Portland for easy access to the parks. Less than two hours from both Yellowstone and Grand Teton, the airport is served by major airlines including United and American. TIP: The city is a great home base with tons of lodging options. 2 See a Penguin Head to the Idaho Falls Zoo, dubbed “the best little zoo in the West.” Small enough to see it all in a couple hours, this zoo has played a large role through its breeding program in helping ensure the survival of endangered species like red pandas and African penguins. TIP: The zoo is closed in the winter. 3 Stroll the Greenbelt Enjoy a walk along the…

2 min.

Other Side of the Tetons

Whether you like motorized recreation or exploring via your own two feet, there’s an adventure for everyone on the Tetons’ western and—if you ask a local—better side. If the feel of a motor purring underneath you is your idea of a perfect day, head to Island Park. In the winter, it’s a snowmobilers’ paradise, but come summer, it shouldn’t be missed by ATV enthusiasts and novices alike. At the Henry’s Fork of the Snake River you can explore hundreds of miles of Forest Service roads, including the 10-mile Big Springs Loop leading to Big Springs, the headwaters of the Snake River. Rent a vehicle at High Mountain Adventures in Island Park. Since this area sees a lot of winter snow, motorized trails open a bit later in the season. June through…

1 min.

Summer Fun Starts Here

Five miles from the entrance to Grand Teton National Park lies a family activity paradise that makes having fun easy and affordable. Snow King Mountain Resort in the heart of Jackson, Wyoming offers zipline courses, mini golf, an alpine slide, a coaster, bike rentals and a restaurant at its base. With close-in, complimentary parking, it’s a hassle-free experience. Head to Treetop Adventure Ropes Course & Ziplines to spend some time suspended in the air, working your way through different challenges like crossing suspended bridges, swinging logs and scrambling up nets. The Summer Cowboy Coaster takes you more than 450 feet up the mountain before you descend nearly a mile in a coaster sled through turns and twists. “It’s super convenient to do, even if you just have two hours when you’re stopping…

1 min.

Whose Land Am I On?

Long before Yellowstone became the country’s first national park, this land was important to a diverse group of people. Philetus W. Norris, the park’s second superintendent, convinced America that Native American tribes avoided Yellowstone because of their fear of the park’s geysers. This came at a time when the U.S. was at war with many tribes so it was a convenient story, but it couldn’t have been further from the truth. Native Americans hunted, fished and gathered plants in the park. Some tribes visited the geysers and conducted ceremonies while others collected obsidian. The Fishing Bridge area was used as a gathering place and the thermal waters of the park were used for ceremony and healing. There are 27 tribes with historic ties to Yellowstone who are now spread across Washington,…

2 min.

Natural Beauty

1 Craters of the Moon National Monument & Preserve Formed by eight major volcanic eruptions from 15,000 to 2,000 years ago, this otherworldly landscape in Arco makes you feel as though you’ve landed on another planet. If you only have 30 minutes, drive the 7-mile scenic loop. For a two-hour hike, park at the Spatter Cones parking lot and walk to Big Craters. 2 Thousand Springs Scenic Byway This scenic drive takes you through the stunning Snake River Canyon, past Hagerman Fossil Beds National Monument, historic towns, hot springs and waterfalls. Don’t miss the Thousand Springs Visitor Center in Hagerman where you can see fossils. Afterwards, stop at Cloverleaf Creamery in Buhl for homemade ice cream. 3 Shoshone Falls Pronounced “Show shown,” these falls on the edge of Twin Falls, are higher than Niagara Falls,…

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National Park Journal Yellowstone 2023 (Digital)

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