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48 Articles

EDITOR’S NOTE

Welcome to our final issue of 2017. Thanks to all those who’ve remained loyal Men’s Style readers during the year, whether the magazine, at mensstyle.com.au or on our social channels. It’s been annother eventful year which started with Australia’s Formula One sensation Daniel Ricciardo on the cover and ends with reformed (self-confessed) Irish party animal Colin Farrell gracing the same space. Personally I think he’s one of the most watchable actors of his generation (In Bruges is a personal fave) and I’d always wanted to put him on a cover. His reviews in The Killing Of A Sacred Deer are so good, now’s as good a time as any. This issue we’ve also given readers an extended Esquire section which celebrates the best things the US, UK and Italy have…

IT’S TIME Well done on another great issue [Spring, 2017]. I’ve been with the magazine since it launched (have all but two copies!), back when men debated weighty issues like the pros and cons of wearing loafers with tassels. These days it’s all about lace-ups with or without socks and grooming tricks to ensure smooth looks but not too shiny a face. I think Gough Whitlam put it best when, with moisturiser in hand, he told the nation to “maintain the age”. Thanks Men’s Style,from a dedicated true believer. Craig Kingston, Queens Park, NSW GARY ON GARY Gary Vaynerchuk sounds like an interesting dude [Spring 2018]... though perhaps his surname should be spelt Vain-erchuk as clearly the guy has major tickets on himself. It’s not that I disgreed with a…

SUMMER COMPENDIUM

Stay The Chen ~ Famous for its art-themed properties such as The Olsen, The Cullen and The Blackman closer to Melbourne CBD, Art Series Hotel Group now opens its eighth “art” hotel, this time in suburban Box Hill, Melbourne. Named after Chinese Australian artist Zhong Chen, the hotel will reflect his persona and be dedicated to the ‘Art of Joyful Journeys’. Opening on November 22, rooftop drinks with this view of Melbourne will be popular. artserieshotels.com.au Watch Phantom Thread ~Said to be the great Daniel Day-Lewis’ last ever film, this Paul Thomas Anderson-directed story will be out February 1, 2018. Day-Lewis plays dressmaker to the elite Reynolds Woodcock, who moves in a controlled way through high society until a young, strong-willed woman, Alma (Vicky Krieps), comes into his life as…

SUMMER COMPENDIUM

October 2017, Melbourne FERRARI & HUBLOT As part of the week-long celebration of its 70th anniversary, Ferrari joined with its watch partner Hublot to stage a red-themed cocktail party at Melbourne’s Docklands with Tim Schenken – Australia’s only ever Ferrari factory driver – as special guest. Model Jarrod Scott also helped Ferrrari unveil LaFerrari Aperta, air-freighted in for the night. A display showcased Hublot’s special timepieces created with Ferrari, including this year’s amazing Techframe Tourbillon Chrono. October 2017, Sydney LARDINI For more on the beautiful bespoke menswear brand from Italy , read our brand story on Lardini on page 74 of this issue. To celebrate Lardini’s three-year exclusive partnership with Australia’s luxury department store, Harrolds, founder Luigi Lardini and his brother Andrea travelled from Italy for an Italian-themed lunch at…

FAT BOY GETS FIT

The latest version of Harley-Davidson’s ever popular Fat Boy motorcycle sort of makes a lie of that adjective due to an altogether tougher, more muscular styling. Most noticeably that begins with the “steamroller stance” of the front end, where solid-disc Lakester wheels support the widest front tyre ever affixed to a Harley-Davidson, at 160mm. Combined with a 240mm rear tyre, it maintains that classic Harley-Davidson silhouette. The impression of muscularity is also achieved by an overall 16kg weight reduction on the previous Fat Boy model, thanks to a lighter, stiffer frame. New suspension technology provides the performance of a racing-style cartridge fork and also reduces weight. A modern-day interpretation of the bike’s classic headlight nacelle features signature LED forward lighting which provides greater visibility during a night ride. The Milwaukee-Eight…

FAT BOY GETS FIT

These pictures from Milan feature a number of the year’s menswear trends brought to life on the streets of the fashion capital. Unbuttoned shirts over a singlet or tee were prominent on catwalks during fashion weeks this year and continued outside the venues for that cool but casual look. Slides and futuristic trainers are an essential part of the high-end athleisure look, along with pants you could potentially go skateboarding in and then wear to cocktails afterwards. Statement graphics, logos, retro art – any or all of the above are a de rigueur part of the upmarket smart casual we see here. On the opposite page are a few looks from Street Seens taken from earlier issues this year. The take-out? There is no discernible thread running through mesnwear trends…

Now into his 80s, Robert Redford is not only a 20th Century screen icon but an archetype of modern American smart casual dressing. Many of his most famous style moments are to be found in what he wore for some of his most memorable roles – the 1930s-inspired jaunty flat cap and pinstripes he wore as Johnny Hooker in The Sting (1973), the elegant cream suit (designed by Ralph Lauren, no less) and brylcreemed hair of Jay Gatsby in The Great Gatsby (1974), the effortlessly cool sports coat and jacket worn by Joseph Turner in Three Days of The Condor (1975) and the rumpled but pitch-perfect corduroy suit he sported playing groundbreaking journo Bob Woodward in All The President’s Men (1976). In short, Redford looks good in anything. And while…

SUMMER DRINKING GUIDE

Summer is my favourite time of year to be out and about sharing a drink – an Esky at an Antarctic-like temperature to enjoy truly refreshing styles of beverage that offer vitality, drinkability and general seasonal cheer. This season is the perfect time to see the new character of a recent wine vintage. Fermentation is over, wines have rested through winter, and it’s a popular time for winemakers to bottle and release their fresh, young expressions from the previous harvest. Keep a keen eye on “Spring releases” for where to buy these vibrant styles. Amongst these early releases there are rosés, light, aromatic white wines and fresh-feeling reds that need a chill to bring them alive. Increasingly, an interesting array of alternative wine products like vermouth or aromatised wines are…

SUMMER DRINKING GUIDE

MAIDENII SPRITZ (Victoria, $40, 750ml) This drink couldn’t be more en vogue, combining Australian ‘pet nat’ (petillant naturel, or naturally sparkling wine), with a splash of Australian vermouth. The resulting Ready To Drink is bristling with refreshment factor, a one-stop shop for poolside drinking. Just add ice and a tall glass. It’s tangy, lightly tart and wholly delicious, like an Aperol Spritz, only funkier. CHINATI VERGANO AMERICANO (Piedmont, Italy, $45, 750ml) Arguably one of the world’s greatest vermouths, the Vergano ‘Americano’ is made to a secret family recipe by a legendary family in Italy’s Piedmont wine region. This should be quaffed chilled, over crushed ice with a big wedge of blood orange, and with gusto. It’s got a sweetness to it but also a refreshing, alpine herb kick. The chalky…

Oils Is Oils On February 17, Midnight Oil held a press conference on Sydney Harbour to announce they were reforming and embarking on a world tour, their first since splitting in 2002. Of the more than 50 gigs they played this year, few could have topped their warm-up at Selina’s, the Sydney beer barn they ruled in their heyday and where in April, they once again proved their might. None of the members are publicly committing to plans past this year, but making a new album would surely be less painful than serving under Kevin Rudd. Father John Misty’s Acid Attack In April, the man known as Josh Tillman released one of the year’s best records in Pure Comedy. Somehow he managed to do this while taking a micro dose…

READS OF THE YEAR

1 LINCOLN IN THE BARDO, by George Saunders The winner of this year’s Man Booker Prize, the most prestigious award in fiction writing, Lincoln In The Bardo is Saunders first novel after a number of acclaimed short story collections. Set at the outset of the American Civil War, it takes as its starting point the sickness and death of President Abraham Lincoln’s 11-year-old son Willie, and the President’s subsequent grief. What follows thereafter is a sometimes supernatural rendering of Willie’s post-life, trapped in a transitional realm – the “bardo”. Told in multiple voices, the language and its rhythm are at first hard to comprehend but slowly, Saunders mastery of his method has drawn you into the shadow world of spirits and unsettled souls. 2 CITY OF CROWS, by Chris Womersley…

READS OF THE YEAR

JANUARY ALL THE MONEY IN THE WORLD (Jan 4) The title refers to J. Paul Getty’s fortune, a sliver of which was demanded in 1973 by crims who kidnapped his grandson. Ridley Scott directs this real-life thriller, with Michelle Williams as the kid’s distraught mother, Mark Wahlberg as an ex-CIA fixer and Kevin Spacey as the ruthless gazillionaire who won’t play ball. DARKEST HOUR (Jan 11) Our cinematic obsession with Winston Churchill continues. Atonement director Joe Wright recreates the 1940 crisis which saw the British Bulldog deciding whether to make peace or war with Hitler. Spoiler alert: it was the latter. Gary Oldman is the cigar-chomping leader. THE POST (Jan 11) One of two 2018 flicks directed by Steven Spielberg, this dramatises The Washington Post’s decision to publish The Pentagon…

TRAVELLING SOUTH

About 10 years ago Men’s Style was invited on a trip by South Australian Tourism which focused heavily on the state’s industrial capacity – in between some great meals and local wines, the media contingent spent a lot of time in hard-hats and white-tissue overalls visiting the Holden factory, RM Williams, and the submarine-building facility at Osborne. How fast times change. A decade on, SA Tourism invited us back, and this time there wasn’t a production line or a machining tool in sight. This trip was all about “boutique SA”, an introduction to the ever expanding range of dining, wining, cultural and day trip experiences available to a visitor arriving in Adelaide. As SA Tourism’s Brent Hill tells Men’s Style over lunch at Etica Pizza al Taglio in Adelaide’s Halifax…

TRAVELLING SOUTH

Staying here without sampling a G&T or gin cocktail would be a crime. In our Classic Edition No.2 currently on the stands, this beautiful property in Sydney’s Double Bay, a short hop from the CBD, serves as the backdrop to our luxurious men’s accessories shoot in the issue. The reason we chose it for the shoot should be obvious – it’s such an impressively appointed property which due to its near-city location, serves as both perfect 5-star weekend getaway hotel and, during the week, a destination for businesspeople who may meet in the city but are attracted to the idea of returning afterwards to Double Bay’s tree-lined streets and village ambience. The renovation and reopening of the former Ritz-Carlton as the Intercontinental Double Bay in late 2014 was a huge…

The Velar is pure visual drama. Velar – derived from the Latin word for ‘cover’ – was the name given to the 1969 prototypes that aimed to conceal development of the original Range Rover, though there’s no disguising Land Rover’s 21st-Century ambitions. Just one ‘Rangie’ existed for 33 years until 2003; Velar becomes the fourth – slotting in between the Evoque and Range Rover Sport that emerged, respectively, in 2011 and 2004. It’s priced accordingly, starting from $71,550, where the Evoque kicks off in the $50K bracket and the Sport from $91,000. Ditherers beware, though: there’s a staggering 40-odd variants from which to choose, and your account can be depleted by up to $135,562 (or $168,862 for the limited-run P380 First Edition we drove). Like the Evoque, the Velar –…

Sting in the tale

Kim Jong-un has been firing out ballistic missiles as quickly as his rhetoric, but a Stinger directed from the southern, democratic part of the Korean peninsula is also on a destructive path. Fortunately, its only intention is to annihilate brand perceptions. Stinger is the name of Kia’s boldest car yet – a large, rear-wheel-drive sedan that is either saddling a horse that has already bolted, or auspiciously timed as a replacement for Australia’s departing Holden Commodore. Even badge snobs would surely have to concede that this is a Kia with striking looks – especially in the flagship GT guise we drove. There’s a more aggressive interpretation of the brand’s family ‘face’ at the front end – it sits low to the ground on big, stylish 19-inch alloy wheels, and the…

Sting in the tale

Caution: you are entering a pragmatism-free zone. If you’ve never used your Big Bertha driver for an approach shot on a par three, or you’ve never shot a grouse with a grenade launcher, then there’s a real chance you won’t understand the new range-topper of Jeep’s Grand Cherokee SUV line-up. Feel free to sniff, mutter something about “pointless wanker-mobile”, and turn the page. We’ll understand. For the rest of you, here’s the Trackhawk in a nutshell: it’s the world’s fastest, most powerful, most extreme SUV. It promises no real off-road ability, yet despite the ‘Track’ part of the name, it’s too heavy to deliver consistent lap times on a circuit. It’s ridiculously over-powered for regular road use. It sits here, squatting on its vast haunches, almost daring the haters to…

One of Australia’s most iconic outback events is the annual Birdsville Races, held in the remote town of Birdsville on the edge of Australia’s vast Simpson Desert. The event swells Birdsville’s population of 115 people to about 7,000 people during the weekend of race-going and partying, and this year Men’s Style was in the thick of it before a drive down the legendary Birdsville Track in a Mazda BT-50. The famous desert race meet draws a wide cast of characters – many in fancy dress – from all parts of Australia to watch horses and jockeys battle the endless dust in a seven-race meet, first held back in the 1880s. Australian Governor-General Peter Cosgrove attended the hospitality marquee along with Men’s Style as we enjoyed the dry conditions with –…

BIG CITY DINING

The transformation of the former Sydney Water Board building in Sydney’s Pitt Street into the five-star Primus Hotel a year or so ago was a welcome addition to the city’s retinue of top hotels. The blending of the building’s significant Art Deco heritage with contemporary, big-hotel touches makes it a unique property to stay at for Sydney visitors. One of the most notable things about the Primus is the imposing lobby – the eight-metre high red, scagliola columns, white marble floor and high ceilings providing a dramatic backdrop to checking in, having a drink, meeting for coffee, or dining at The Wilmot. The highly experienced Daniel Menzies has now taken over from Ryan Hong as Head Chef at The Wilmot. Menzies has worked alongside 3-Michelin Star chef Guy Savoy, as…

BIG CITY DINING

GIVE IT THE BIRD

Near-city bar options continue to flourish in Sydney and the latest is Whirly Bird in Union Street, Pyrmont, opened by former Keystone Group figure Anthony Prior. A bar and diner focusing on cocktails and share plates featuring fine poultry, Whirly Bird’s aim is “casual elegance” in a multi-function space that can seat 150 and includes a 12-person private dining area as well as bar, lounge and outdoor areas. The menu includes signature rotisserie spit roast birds or killer buttermilk fried chicken paired with one of two sauces – chilli and honey caramel, or house-made Whirlybird smoky BBQ. The list also includes vegetarian and vegan options such as ‘salt ‘n’ pepper silken tofu’ with spring onions, ginger and ponzu. Cocktails are the drinks focus, created by Rollo Anderson and Liam Doherty-Penzer…

GIVE IT THE BIRD

OBJECT OF DESIRE VINTAGE BREW If your house looks a bit like a vintage store full of pieces from the mid-20th Century and the decades after, then this Smeg 50s Retro Style Espresso Coffee Machine probably deserves pride of place on the kitchen bench. Looking like a benchtop version of a Cadillac convertible, the machine utilises a thermoblock heating system to ensure close-to-instant hot water for your coffee and is equipped with an ergonomic control panel for one-touch hot brews. The 15-bar pump pressure concentrates beans at an optimal level to ensure the coffee has a rich taste and a crema top. Available nationally from David Jones, Myer, Harvey Norman in pastel blue, red, black and panna. $499; smeg.com.au ENTERTAINING CHRISTMAS IN A BOX Want to host your nearest and…

BRILLIANT BORDEAUX

Bordeaux’s image remains unscathed amongst the cognoscenti but it barely raises the pulse for the more avant-garde drinker. The buttoned-up grand Chateaux imagery of the region projects a rarefied air and inspires aspirational drinking culture, but ‘common folk’ seem to have shifted their gaze. Bordeaux has lost a generation of drinkers. In high end, fine wine circles however, particularly the increasingly voracious Chinese market, Bordeaux’s image has not faltered. Top end Chateaux achieve record money at auction, wines are bought and sold like stocks and shares, and the best wines of vintage are clamoured for. Each year a horde of suited and booted wine critics descend on the wine-growing region for ‘en primeur’ tasting – an orgy of sampling unfinished wines, tasted direct from barrel. The subsequent reviews have a…

BRILLIANT BORDEAUX

TRY THESE FROM 2016

BUDGET CHATEAU CANTEMERLE: Revitalised in the 1980s, Cantemerle is known as a ‘Fifth Growth’ estate but offers classic expressions of Bordeaux, set to more fine, elegant styling. Savour judicious spicy oak woven through dark fruit character with faint, floral lift. Expect to pay around $70 per bottle. CHATEAU LAFON-ROCHET: Typically a cabernet dominant wine, the Lafon-Rochet house style champions restraint over bombastic character. The wines are often ideal for medium to longer term cellaring, but in youth drink at medium weight with firm, fine tannins. Slow cooked dishes at the ready. Expect to pay around $90 per bottle. TOP END CHATEAU MONTROSE: Reliably one of Bordeaux’s greatest wines, Montrose often outlives its purchasers, with a conservative cellar life of around 50 years. In youth, these wines are stoic, firm, powerful…

TRY THESE FROM 2016

Unproductive busyness has become the scourge of our times. According to a Harvard study, many of the things we choose to do are merely justifications to keep ourselves busy. What’s the answer as you exhaust yourself with a day job, a podcast, a start-up business on the side or anything else you decide to squeeze into your life as evidence of a successful working life? Start with taking the time to reflect and getting rid of habits that sabotage everything you do. 1 DE-QUASIMODO Everywhere you look people are locked into Hunchback of Notre Dame slumps as they peer at computer screens and smartphones. A habit that’s not only bad for body alignment, it can lead to tension headaches, neck and back pain. Correcting your posture doesn’t begin and end…

XMAS GIFT GUIDE

Gift guide suggestions from PR companies and brands start earlier every year. We think we received the first one back in August. And from that avalanche of product we’ve done the editing for you to hopefully provide a range of Christmas gift ideas for the important men in your life – things of quality, things that will last, and things at different price points. Choose wisely! 1 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Zegna’s Toyz collection is an exclusive line of men’s accessories, entertainment and home products crafted from the brand’s signature Pelle Tessuta – an innovative woven leather fabric made from extremely thin strips of micro leather. The variety of items include small leather goods, a selection of travel games, multimedia accessories and a luxury bag. zegna.com.au 2 CK JEWELRY Inspired…

XMAS GIFT GUIDE

LACOSTE The effortlessly chic French brand has come a long way since René Lacoste first introduced his iconic piqué polo shirt 80 years ago. Today Lacoste is a full apparel offering, as well as shoes, accessories and leather goods, all informed by its heritage as a classic brand for the active, outdoor man but also with a cool, contemporary edge. Put on Lacoste and you immediately look like a man with a firm grasp of his own style, rooted in quality staples but with room to add the stylish, on-trend flourish... like the lightweight trench here. lacoste.com.au Lacoste trench coat, $799, jacket, $599, singlet, $199, and pants, $299. THE ACADEMY BRAND When we spoke with The Academy Brand founder Anthony Pitt for our Men Of Style list this year, he…

SCENTS OF OCCASION

You wouldn’t wear the same shoes to ask for a promotion or paddle a kayak up a remote river. Just as different footwear is made for every occasion and activity, so are fragrances. Whether you’re looking to meet the love of your life, catch a wave or go bush, Men’s Style has done the hard yards to come up with the right choices for today’s hectic lifestyles. 1 AESOP HWYL EAU DE PARFUM Outdoorsy fragrances have always appealed to the closet frontiersman in urban males, conjuring up images of Ned Kelly beards and battling for survival against the odds with every spray. There’s a whole genre of contemporary backwoodsman scents in the US such as Juniper Ridge Mojave Trail Resin Cologne. Inspired by the woods and mosses of an ancient…

SCENTS OF OCCASION

Puttin’ On The Spritz

CALVIN KLEIN OBSESSED FOR WOMEN AND FOR MEN A re-tread of Obsession, this is Calvin Klein’s sex incarnate bestseller. The ads use unseen footage from the 1993 campaign for the original juice starring Kate Moss, shot by her then-boyfriend Mario Sorrenti. If it’s true that people go away to come back, these memory lane newbies are definitive getting-back-together scents. But even if the relationship is new, the men’s version is a feel-good blend of spices, leather and woods. Soft and fresh with lavender, its female counterpart is simply sexy. From $79 for both; Myer, David Jones and selected pharmacies. HUGO BOSS THE SCENT INTENSE FOR HIM AND FOR HER Guys who liked the original 2015 release – The Scent – will welcome the amplified power of this follow-up. Balanced and…

Puttin’ On The Spritz

Enjoying a daily dip is the definitive Aussie summer exercise. But the water you swim in can wreak havoc on your skin and hair if you don’t take extra care. Chlorine is tough on bacteria so imagine what it does to other life forms, starting with the dreaded stinging and burning of “swimmer’s eye”. Sea water contains beneficial minerals, but salt in high quantities is just as drying to the skin and hair as chlorine. Even if you shower immediately after an ocean swim, salt residue hangs around. Throw in hours of sun exposure and you’re on the fast track to ‘desert skin’, with damaged barrier function and hair as dry and brittle as straw. Here’s the Men’s Style guide to looking good as you work on that swimmer’s build.…

Three products that will energise your skin in seconds.

1 LAB SERIES FOR MEN SOLID WATER ESSENCE Looking knackered? In consumer testing, 86 per cent of men said their skin felt more energised and 94 per cent reported an instant burst of hydration after one application of this gel-to-liquid jumpstarter. Featuring ginseng, caffeine and bamboo-infused water, use as a pick-me-up any time you need to look a lot more wide awake. $67; Myer and David Jones stores. 2 LA MER GENAISSANCE THE INFUSED LOTION Accelerated cell renewal is the promise of this oil-in-water formula that kickstarts a healthier, more vital look in seconds. Containing the prestige brand’s ProBio Ferment, the intensely hydrating lotion comes in a big bottle that really lasts. Give it a shake before each use and use only a few drops to strengthen the skin’s resilience…

Three products that will energise your skin in seconds.

‘A suit jacket will elevate the outfit, which is why our roots will remain in tailoring.’Luigi Lardini A check of the Instagram page of Luigi Lardini confirms that the man who founded his eponymous label in Italy’s La Marche region back in 1978 not only shapes the brand, he lives the brand. In Australia recently, where Lardini is sold through luxury department store Harrolds, Creative Director Luigi and brother Andrea (who manages the technical side of the operation) reflected on the journey which has taken them from a teenager’s dream to create luxurious menswear rooted in the traditions of Italian tailoring to a brand with an international reputation for pushing sartorial boundaries within a framework of meticulous workmanship. As seen in Luigi’s own ensembles on social media, this means high-quality…

MR PORTER It was perhaps only a matter of time and now, from November, men’s luxury e-tailer Mr Porter launches its very own label, MR P. A year-round collection of “future classics” will focus on an ‘Essentials’ range of core staples, and there will also be five limited-edition capsule collections every year. These will be trend-driven, seasonal and inspired by a style icon past or present, the first being British painter Lucian Freud. Mr Porter says the design process for MR P. is guided by the maxim: Easy pieces. Smart details. Enduring style. It’s also the result of customer insight gained by servicing more than 600,000 shoppers in the seven years of Mr Porter’s existence. The launch collection includes 53 items across ready-to-wear, including 24 Essential styles available year-round and…

THE FINISHING TOUCH

There’s nothing wrong with buying a watch for that simple aesthetic reason: “I like the look of it.” Over time, though, the finer details start to count. A select group of high-end watch brands are increasing their focus on hand-finishing as a selling point because the time-consuming techniques involved can account for up to 30 per cent of the cost of an haute horlogerie model. Like many watchmaking terms, finishing is a translation of the French word ‘finissage’. Independent watchmakers like Kari Voutilainen and Philippe Dufour and storied brands such as Patek Philippe and Breguet rightly emphasise their incomparable hand-finishing. At A. Lange & Sohne’s HQ in Glashutte, Germany pride of place goes to the Finishing Section, where the technicians have undergone two years of internal training and come from…

THE FINISHING TOUCH

THE MAIN TECHNIQUES

BEVELLING Also known as chamfering, it’s one of the most complicated finishing methods. In most cases, the technique involves the removal of edges of bridges and there are three main types – interior angles, exterior and rounded angles. It takes 18 months of training to become an expert at bevelling because the right amount of pressure must be used for optimum results. Too much and the component will bend out of shape, while too little doesn’t produce sharp enough angles. HAND-ENGRAVING This requires a steady hand in addition to real artistic skill. The elite who work for the high-end brands have individual styles and no two engravings are the same. This adds uniqueness to every watch on which they work. Well-funded watch-lovers’ place orders for personalised designs. COTES DE GENEVE…

THE MAIN TECHNIQUES

WHAT THE U. S. GAVE THE WORLD: SPORTSWEAR And the notion that casual, comfortable, purpose-built clothes can be cool STYLING TIPS MADE IN THE U.S.A. THE T-SHIRT UNDER A MOTORCYCLE JACKET: Films are Marlon Brando’s second-greatest contribution to our culture. THE ROLLED SHIRT SLEEVES: It’s a mandatory move on the campaign trail, because it’s American as hell. THE CUFFED JEAN: Once is enough, with no more than an inch to the width of the cuff. DESIGNER OF THE MOMENT Todd Snyder He’s the great hope of New York menswear, a designer who shot up through the ranks at Ralph Lauren and J. Crew, who has an unerring eye for Americana yet never descends into buffalo-plaid pastiche. We sounded him out on American style. “America is a melting pot, and our…

A BRIEF HISTORY OF AMERICAN STYLE

1873: Nevada tailor Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss & Co. receive a patent for using rivets at points of strain in denim pants to make them stronger and more durable. 1921: Pro baller Charles “Chuck” Taylor makes a few tweaks to the Converse All Star shoe and becomes its spokesman. 1928: At a Harley-Davidson dealer on Long Island, New York, the first leather motorcycle jacket made by Irving Schott goes on sale for $5.50. 1936: Ray-Ban aviators are invented by Bausch + Lomb as an alternative to goggles. General MacArthur helps make ’em famous. 1959: Cary Grant shows the country how a suit should fit in North by Northwest. 1961: JFK brings a top hat to his inauguration but doesn’t wear it during his speech, relieving American men of the…

A BRIEF HISTORY OF AMERICAN STYLE

WHAT THE UK GAVE THE WORLD: STRUCTURE It is only when a suit fits, frames, and functions perfectly that a man’s character (and eccentricities) can truly shine STYLE YOURSELF LIKEAN ENGLISHMAN THE ASYMMETRICAL TIE KNOT: And it should be just a bit off-centre. THE SLIGHTLY FRAYED COLLAR/CUFFS: Worn in but not worn out. REGIMENTAL SOCKS: Less visible than the regimental tie, yet you’re still showing your colours. DESIGNER OF THE MOMENT Oliver Spencer Spencer has hit an elusive London-fashion sweet spot: not too edgy, not too establishment. The man who started out selling secondhand clothes from a stall at Portobello Market now has an eponymous line of pieces that convey what he sees as the essence of English style. Here’s what that means to him: “There isn’t such a thing…

A BRIEF HISTORY OF BRITISH STYLE

1840: Tailors set up shop on Savile Row; Henry Poole, tailor to the Prince of Wales, is credited with introducing both the tuxedo and the smoking jacket. 1938: The British military develops the first iteration of the cargo pant, unwittingly sabotaging American fashion of the 1990s. 1944: While stationed in Burma with the British army, Nathan Clark sees off-duty officers wearing suede boots with crepe soles, brings the desert boot back to England. 1958: Paddington Bear debuts in his now-iconic blue British duffle coat. So begins a child’s education in English fashion. 1962: James Bond (in the person of Sean Connery) makes his entrance on the world stage with Dr. No. Men the world over begin mimicking his wardrobe. 1964: Beatlemania sweeps the world, along with slim-fitting suits, skinny ties,…

A BRIEF HISTORY OF BRITISH STYLE

WHAT ITALY GAVE THE WORLD: LIGHTNESS As well as elegance and permission to care deeply about clothes while looking like you couldn’t care less THE SECRETS OF ITALIAN STYLE SUNGLASSES IN THE BREAST POCKET: May we suggest Persols? SWEATER ON THE SHOULDERS: The thinner the cashmere, the better. SOCKLESSNESS:* As soon—and for as long—as the weather allows. *THE NO-SWEAT GUIDE TO GOING SOCKLESS 1 ALTERNATE between two or more pairs of shoes. Your feet have 250,000 sweat glands; your shoes take 24 to 48 hours to dry after a day of wear. Unvarnished cedar shoe trees go a long way when it comes to shape retention and odour prevention. 2 USE disposable insoles. Don’t just stick them in and forget about them—change them every two weeks, at a minimum. 3…

A BRIEF HISTORY OF ITALIAN STYLE

1526: Beretta begins making firearms, adding clothing and accessories to its roster a few hundred years later. It remains one of the oldest manufacturing corporations in the world. 1528: Baldassare Castiglione publishes The Book of the Courtier and introduces the world to the word sprezzatura. 1850: The country’s first tailoring shop, Castangia, opens for business in Sardinia and soon receives a royal warrant from the ruling Savoys that still to this day appears on its labels. 1860: Officine Panerai is founded in Florence and eventually becomes the watch supplier to the Italian Navy. 1910: Ermenegildo Zegna opens a textile mill in Trivero. 1930: Vincenzo Attolini perfects a jacket inspired by Savile Row but with-out any padding or canvassing, unwittingly launching Italian men’s fashion 30 years ahead of everyone else. 1934:…

A BRIEF HISTORY OF ITALIAN STYLE

PEAK OF HIS POWERS

‘Colin Farrell has been pretty great for a long time… working with challenging directors who bring out different edges of his ability even this late into his career.’ iF YOU EVER FREQUENTED legendary Sydney watering hole the Judgement Bar in Taylor Square in the early 1990s, chances are you may have shared elbow-bending room alongside a charismatic, good-looking young Irishman with coal-coloured eyes and hair to match. He may have introduced himself as “Colin”, which would have meant nothing to you at the time, because a famous Irishman with that name and look was still a few years off. This Colin, 17 years old, was here “for the fuck of it”, drinking “with the reprobates” in the Judgement, working in a bank and living in a unit off Oxford Street.…

PEAK OF HIS POWERS

ULTIMATE SUMMER STREAMING GUIDE

In this Golden Age Of Television you’ve got a near-infinite supply of quality entertainment at your fingertips. But the tyranny of choice – that same analysis-paralysis you used to get in ye olde video store – can lead to you spending more time scrolling than streaming. So, to streamline your screening, here are the best binge-worthy offerings for those long summer afternoons… GODS & MONSTERS A American Gods (AMAZON) Amazon’s ultra-high-definition delivery is spectacularly showcased in this adaptation of Neil Gaiman’s beloved novel of the same name. Ian McShane is on comically gruff form as Mr Wednesday, the modern incarnation of Odin, who reveals to recent jailbird Shadow Moon that our world is about to be ripped apart in a war between the new and old gods. While it sounds…

ULTIMATE SUMMER STREAMING GUIDE

THE GREAT DISRUPTION

MARTIN STELTNER showed up at his office in the state courthouse building in western Berlin. Steltner, who has served for more than a dozen years as the spokesman for the Berlin state prosecutor, resembles a detective out of classic crime fiction: crisp suit, wavy gray hair and a gallows humor that comes with having seen it all. There was the 2009 case of the therapist who mistakenly killed two patients in an Ecstasy-infused session gone wrong. The Great Poker Heist of 2010, in which masked men stormed a celebrity-studded poker tournament with machetes and made off with a quarter-million dollars. The 2012 episode involving the Canadian porn star who killed and ate his boyfriend and then sent the leftovers home in the mail. Steltner embraced the oddball aspect of his…

THE GREAT DISRUPTION

1 G-STAR Pieces to consider from one of the leading international innovators in denim when new jeans are in order: Above, left, the Lanc 3D Tapered Jeans, which in the spirit of G-Star ingenuity, rethink 3D pattern cutting. The result is an anatomically shaped garment that questions the position of traditional side seams, and shifts from the side to the front for better shape and more comfortable wear. Above, right, the 3301 Tapered Jeans – G-Star’s classic five-pocket jean and the cleanest style in the brand’s denim range. Based on the hardwearing labourer’s pant of Western origins, which was known for its ‘non-fit’, the 3301 is a wardrobe staple. Its name is derived from the fabric and colour code of the first raw denim introduced by G-Star in 1996. Lanc…

DIRECTORY~SUMMER

GET THE LOOK BROOKS BROTHERS brooksbrothers.com.au LACOSTE lacoste.com.au MJ BALE mjbale.com NAUTICA nautica.com.au THE ACADEMY BRAND academybrand.com WATCHES BELL & ROSS (03) 9572 9820 BREITLING breitling.com CORUM (03) 9572 9820 DANIEL WELLINGTON danielwellington.com/au EMPORIO ARMANI (02) 8977 8086 FREDERIQUE CONSTANT (03) 9572 9820 HUAWEI huawei.com/au/ MICHAEL KORS theiconic.com.au/michael-kors/ RAYMOND WEIL raymond-weil.com/en/ RICHARD MILLE richardmille.com TUDOR tudorwatch.com ZENITH zenith-watches.com LONG HOT SUMMER BARNEY COOLS barneycools.com.au COUNTRY ROAD countryroad.com.au DOUBLE RAINBOUU doublerainbouu.com GUCCI gucci.com LACOSTE lacoste.com.au LE SPECS lespecs.com MR PORTER mrporter.com NEED ESSENTIALS info@needessentials.com NCHE SURF nchesurf.com PAUL SMITH paulsmith.co.uk POLAROID SUNGLASSES (02) 9540 0500 PRADA prada.com QUIKSILVER quiksilver.com.au THE ACADEMY BRAND academybrand.com THE UPSIDE theupsidesport.com WILD THINGS wildthingsgallery.com.au TRUE COLOURS BROOKS BROTHERS brooksbrothers.com.au BURBERRY burberry.com G-STAR g-star.com/en_au GUCCI gucci.com HARROLDS harrolds.com.au JAC & JACK jacandjack.com MJ BALE mjbale.com MUI MUI…

DIRECTORY~SUMMER

This issue of Men’s Style is published by Bauer Media Pty Ltd (Bauer). Bauer may use and disclose your information in accordance with our Privacy Policy, including to provide you with your requested products or services and to keep you informed of other Bauer publications, products, services and events. Our Privacy Policy is located at www.bauer-media.com.au/privacy/ It also sets out how you can access or correct your personal information and lodge a complaint. Bauer may disclose your personal information offshore to its owners, joint venture partners, service providers and agents located throughout the world, including in New Zealand, USA, the Philippines and the European Union. In addition, this issue may contain Reader Offers, being offers, competitions or surveys. Reader Offers may require you to provide personal information to enter or…

TRUE STYLE IS WEARING EXACTLY WHAT SOMEONE ELSE IS WEARING IN A MAGAZINE AD. EVEN IF IT DOESN’T FIT AND YOU LOOK UNCOMFORTABLE. I’m happiest whenever… I least expect it. It kind of sneaks up on me. Then, as soon as I’m aware of it, it disappears. My darkest moods are caused by… ennui, man’s inhumanity to man, and an excess of sugar. What keeps me awake at night is… my wife, who in turn is kept awake by my snoring, who then wakes me up, etc, etc. It’s a slightly less dramatic version of Sartre’s Huis Clos but well worth the price of admission. In the last dream I had I… went on stage and didn’t know my lines. Hang on, I’m not sure that was a dream. My…

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