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17 Articles

A Watershed Moment

Publications that can boast of four decades of history are few and far between, especially in today’s digital age, which is why it’s my utmost honour to be penning the editor’s letter for this monumental 40th edition of the Tatler Dining Guide Hong Kong. This is our biggest edition of the Tatler Dining Guide in many years (336 pages!), properly reflecting the return of Hong Kong’s dining scene after enduring some of the world’s longest and strictest social distancing measures. On our 40th birthday, we’ve taken the liberty of doing some healthy introspection, as one is wont to do ahead of such milestones. The result of such ruminations has been twofold: firstly, a comprehensive revamp of our system of reviewing and awarding restaurants; and secondly, a newfound ambition to expand our…

A Watershed Moment

Hong Kong-based illustrator Kinchoi Lam tells Tatler Dining about the inspiration behind the cover art for this year’s guide Follow Kinchoi at @lamkinchoi The Work: The Round Dining Table My mother said that a round dining table represents togetherness, so even though our home is not spacious, she has always insisted on using a large round table when we have meals together. There are four people in my family: my father, mother, older brother and me. As we grew up, my brother and I moved out one after another, and now our family only eats together once or twice a week. Every time I come home for a meal, I take pictures of the dishes, thinking that one day I will learn how to cook them. The food depicted in this drawing represents…

Come Dine With Us

TATLER DINING KITCHEN: AWARDS EDITION April–June 2023 Riding on the high of the Tatler Dining Awards ceremony that took place on January 20, our Tatler Dining Kitchen series returned once again to KIN Food Halls, this time exclusively featuring the winners of 2023. Bringing together five pairs of chefs, the series ran over the course of three months, each time delighting diners in an intimate omakase format that featured a mish-mash of cultures as dreamt up by the winners of the Tatler Dining Awards 2023. These ranged from a Canto-Indian collaboration to a Singaporean-Venezuelan odyssey which, safe to say, were utterly unique culinary experiences that won’t be repeated again. ON THE MENU The collaborators Barry Quek (Whey) x Ricardo Chaneton (Mono) Manav Tuli (Chaat) x Agustin Balbi (Andō) Jayson Tang (Man Ho Chinese Restaurant) x Steve Lee…

Come Dine With Us

CLUB BÂTARD 1-3/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central, Hong Kong batardhk.com Two of Hong Kong’s most loved restaurants, Bâtard and Hop Sze, are set to move behind a paywall this summer with the opening of Club Bâtard, a multistorey members’ club in the heart of Central. They’ll be joined by an all-day French brasserie and a whisky bar, along with a world-class wine collection. LEELA Shop 301-310, Lee Garden Three, 1 Sunning Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong leela.hk Opened by none other than our 2022 Chef of the Year, Manav Tuli, Leela turns the Hindu concept of divine play into a stylish dining experience involving hearty dishes plucked and reinterpreted from across the Indian subcontinent. Palatial decor by André Fu completes the sense of immersion. SABATINI Shop 4008, Level 4, IFC Mall, 8 Finance Street, Central,…

Onwards and Upwards

Winning a Tatler Dining Award is a reflection of a chef’s growth and artistry in their career thus far, as well as a harbinger of even more success to come. Over the years, we’ve watched previous winners of the city’s most prominent dining awards go on to global success. Some develop a loyal following, while many have built upon their accolades to accomplish even more feats in the world of gastronomy. As we celebrate 40 years of the Tatler Dining Guide in Hong Kong, we’re also revisiting four Tatler Dining Award-winning chefs from previous years for a glimpse of what this year’s winners can expect in their future. Daniel Calvert Best New Chef, 2018 It was the mille-feuille Daniel Calvert created for Belon that captured the heart of many a diner, and rightfully…

Onwards and Upwards

Hong Kong Calling

Colibri Jimenez On a mission to promote and preserve authentic Mexican cuisine, Jimenez, of Netflix’s The Final Table fame, held a four-day pop-up at Carlyle & Co in November 2023 Hong Kong is all about good food! Since my last visit, the dining scene here has evolved with much more creativity, diversity of palates and authentic flavours. In such an international city, you have to take great care of the intensity of flavours that really evoke the essence of your country and cuisine. There’s a real passion among this city’s industry and clientele that inspires me—the same kind of dedication and commitment that inspires me to promote Mexican cuisine. I also appreciate that there are now a growing number of conscious chefs who take sustainability and ethics seriously, an aspect that really…

Hong Kong Calling

The Ultimate Dining Cheatsheet

United Nations Where to sample the further-flung corners of the world Uma Nota Page 253 Sep Page 272 Auor Page 254 Embla Page 251 Chaat Page 161 Buenos Aires Polo Club Page 252 Pondi Page 163 Churchill’s Table Page 276 Francis West Page 232 Mono Page 230 Lunching on the Low The best bang for your buck during the day Roganic Page 247 Cruise Page 165 Cafe Bau Page 234 Moxie Page 244 BluHouse Page 175 Ciak In The Kitchen Page 179 Kyoto Joe Page 206 11 Westside Page 229 Zoku Page 226 Veda Page 270 Meat Cute Carnivores will love these meat-focused restaurants The Steak House Page 265 Fireside Page 166 Birdie Page 194 Enishi Page 197 Associazione Chianti Page 173 Beefbar Page 260 Grand Hyatt Steakhouse Page 262 Wagyumafia Page 222 Testina Page 189 I M Teppanyaki Page 201 Ocean Prime Where seafood is the name of the game Dolos Page 158 Ronin Page 208 The Praya Page 238 Asaya Kitchen Page 172 Sushi Haré Page 211 Lobster Bar & Grill…

The Ultimate Dining Cheatsheet

No Guts, No Glory

Offal is not something new in Chinese cuisine. From slowly braised beef tripe to deep-fried swirls of pig intestine on sticks, these dishes, mostly born from necessity rather than desire, are rich in flavour and tradition. Yet for some, offal remains an acquired taste, often unfairly dismissed as mere scraps from a more rustic culinary practice. This, however, is where its allure lies, inviting connoisseurs and the curious to explore the depths of its unique heritage. Recently, as the culinary world has pivoted towards sustainability and nose-to-tail eating, offal has found a new audience in contemporary restaurants. Often shrugged off as the less glamorous bits and bobs of an animal—think organs, bones, blood and everything else in between—these once-overlooked offcuts are finding their way onto menus spanning a number of cuisines,…

No Guts, No Glory

A look back at 40 years of the Tatler Dining Guide

The year is 1984. Leslie Cheung’s hit pop song Monica is blaring over the radio on every street corner; Donnie Yen has just made his acting debut in martial arts film Drunken Tai Chi; Margaret Thatcher is due to sign the Sino-British Joint Declaration, sealing Hong Kong’s fate for the foreseeable future; and in English bookstores all across the British colony, a curious new publication is being carefully placed on shelves. Titled Hong Kong’s 100 Best Restaurants 1984 in bold red lettering, it is the very first edition of what you hold in your hands today, 40 years in the future. Hong Kong has transformed almost beyond recognition in the intervening decades, with the city weathering pandemics, social unrest, financial collapse and more—but if there’s any constant here beside change, it’s…

A look back at 40 years of the Tatler Dining Guide

The Forefront of Tradition

A nyone with picky grandparents of a certain leisurely class who left Guangzhou for Hong Kong would have heard the common refrain: “This choy sum has no taste!” Or the recurring “This chicken has no chicken flavour!” If your grandparents were from Shanghai, multiply the culinary complaints by a factor of ten. Sure, luxury dried Chinese food products like abalone, sea cucumber, fish maw and bird’s nest are part and parcel of the repertoire of every Chinese restaurant worth its soy sauce. But as I’ve witnessed in post-pandemic China, even more quotidian, domestically grown ingredients are making a comeback after decades of neglect, with new cultivars outstripping Japanese produce and contending directly with European ingredients. During a trip to celebrate Rosewood Guangzhou’s fourth anniversary, Doctor Henry Cheng Kar-shun, the patriarch of the…

The Forefront of Tradition

This year, the Tatler Dining Guide has taken on a whole new format by including more restaurants and more input from our panellists. Rather than sending individual reviewers to restaurants for physical reviews, our panel of industry leaders and tastemakers were responsible for nominating and voting to help us arrive at this year’s Tatler Dining 20 lists for Hong Kong and Macau, a collection of the year’s most interesting, impactful and inspiring restaurants. The same panel also helped us determine the winners for the Best In Class Awards. Experiences from our panel contributed towards our assessments of the restaurants listed in the guide. This has resulted in a growth in the breadth and diversity of restaurants featured in our guide; and more importantly, it has allowed us to expand our scope…

Best In Class Awards

Chef of the Year Vicky Cheng Under Vicky Cheng’s leadership, VEA and Wing are realms where the ordinary becomes extraordinary. Each visit brings complex narratives to the table, brilliantly celebrating Chinese heritage with an exciting freshness. Sure, Cheng boasts skill, experience and a creative flair that’s hard to match, but it’s his profound reverence for every ingredient, along with his relentless drive and work ethic, that has propelled him to culinary acclaim. This fervour overflows onto his Instagram, where he champions local, seasonal and often overlooked ingredients. Demonstrating that there’s more to success than talent alone, Cheng’s collaboration with a local charity and the creation of the Elizabeth Nutritional Fund see him using his platform to give back, particularly in supporting underprivileged children. Best Service Wing In the world of gastronomy, service stands as the…

Best In Class Awards

Tatler Dining 20 Hong Kong

Amber Having steered the Amber ship for 19 years now, culinary director Richard Ekkebus isn’t content with just cooking haute cuisine anymore, or even taking fine-dining into its next chapter of dairy-free gastronomy—as he did with the restaurant’s total revamp in 2019. Last year, the Dutch native girded Amber’s reputation as a centre for talent cultivation by way of a blockbuster 16-hands dinner that brought back the restaurant’s alumni from across the globe. This was followed shortly by a sustainability-minded collaboration with SingleThread Farms in California, which coincided with Amber’s own release of a lychee beer made using surplus local fruit. For all the criticisms of fine dining as being lavish and frivolous, just look to Amber for proof that the pursuit can also be a vehicle for positive change. The Chairman With…

Tatler Dining 20 Hong Kong

Tatler Dining 20 Macau

Chef Tam’s Seasons Certainly one of Macau’s most forward-thinking Chinese restaurants is the newest venture of culinary heavyweight Tam Kwok-Fung, where the 24 solar terms of the traditional Chinese calendar inform the ever-changing menu. Indeed, no visit will ever yield the same experience—so frequent are the hyper-seasonal updates that mark this restaurant as a hotbed of innovation. The Huaiyang Garden Founded by revered Chinese chef Zhou Xiaoyan, The Huaiyang Garden hones in on its namesake cuisine—which originates from Jiangsu province and is known for its skilled use of vinegar and knifework—to much aplomb. Under the direction of head chef Xiao Fei, the restaurant explores the possibilities of Huaiyang cuisine as presented in a tasting menu, with the seasons of China’s midwestern coast providing ample inspiration for Xiao to apply his precise technique in…

Tatler Dining 20 Macau

Best Hong Kong Restaurants

BRITISH The Chinnery 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2825 4009 mandarinoriental.com MandarinOrientalHongKong mo_hkg TATLER SAYS Time stands still in The Chinnery. Perhaps it’s the handsome wooden panelling or the curve of the upholstered armchairs, but retreating into this enclave of yesteryear feels that much like stepping into a time capsule (albeit without the exclusionary menonly edict; that’s been nixed since 1990). On the menu, it’s no-frills pub fare: fish and chips, bangers and mash, and a stunning chicken tikka masala, all executed to the exacting standards expected of any Mandarin Oriental outlet. There’s also one of the world’s most extensive collections of single malts behind the bar, should you wish for several fingers instead of a foamy Guinness. SIGNATURE DISHES • Bangers and mash• Fish and chips• Rogan josh PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,100 BRITISH Lobster…

Best Hong Kong Restaurants

Best Macau Restaurants

BRITISH Churchill’s Table Level 1, The Londoner, Macau, Sands Cotai Central, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8118 8822 londonermacao.com/macau-restaurants/churchills-table.html LondonerMacao the_londoner_macao TATLER SAYS Housed within the Crystal Palace area of The Londoner Macao, this restaurant is inspired by the late British prime minister and gourmand Sir Winston Churchill. International breakfast, dinner, English afternoon tea and a theatrical dessert tasting journey are all served here. Dinner signatures include lobster and seafood risotto; baked bone marrow topped with mushrooms; and rotisserie roasted duck. Afternoon tea, beautifully presented, sometimes adopts seasonal or festive themes, or less expected ones, such as Mad Hatter, for which characters from Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland inspired its savoury and sweet inclusions. A coffee lounge by day offers light meals, and transforms into an English pub in the evenings, serving Churchill’s favourite drinks and…

Best Macau Restaurants

001 Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3559 2600 001bar 001.hk AWARDS: • Top 10 Bars, 2023 AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$160 TATLER SAYS Hong Kong’s first speakeasy, 001 vacated its underground sanctuary in 2022, but after a short hiatus it’s causing drinkers to get completely lost once again—this time in the alleys of Tai Kwun—in search of a good cocktail. Still found behind an unmarked black door, its mixologists craft a tightly edited shortlist of signatures—most of which tread in the footsteps of influential recipes from the canon of American cocktails. Lighter libations of note include the Earl Grey Marteani, while classics such as the Rob Roy attest to 001’s reputation for working with underrated spirits. SIGNATURE DRINKS • Earl Grey Marteani• Piñacillin• Yuzutini Apothecary Unit 3A, Carfield Commercial Building, 75-77 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2893 8633 apothecaryhk apothecary_hk AVERAGE…

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