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Gripped: The Climbing August/September 2023 Vol. 25 Issue 4 (Digital)

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24 Articles

Squamish Boom and Ontario Bust

Squamish is always the scene of some of North America’s most impressive climbing, however, this year it seemed especially noteworthy. Over the past few months, there have been some historic sends and a handful of new routes that quickly became classics. There were sport routes climbed trad and hard boulders downgraded. It seemed that every day was full of action. To some, the crystally granite of Squamish is one of the easier rock types to climb. So, it’s no wonder that we saw so much world-class sending early in the year. From Trevor McDonald opening a new 5.13a on Anvil Island, which has been praised as one of the best climbs at the grade in B.C., to Didier Berthod sending one of The Chief’s longstanding crack projects at 5.14, it was…

Squamish Boom and Ontario Bust

The North Face Base Camp Mules $114 From weeks-long road trips to overnighters at your favourite crag, this warm between-activity lounge shoe is a must have. They’re simple, warm, durable and can be returned to The North Face to be used in a recycling program called Circular Design. Arc’teryx Calidum 5 Panel Cap $50 The brand that brings you some of the highest-end technical apparel for the mountains also has their finger on the style pulse. This five-panel hat has the same mesh fabric Arc’teryx uses in their amazing Konseal harness, which makes it a perfect breathable cap for warm days. Petzl Spirit Express Quickdraw $32 This is still one of the best all-round quickdraws on the market and we’re happy that they’re still available at climbing stores everywhere. If you’re new to sport climbing then you’ll want…

Caroline George

Growing up in a small village in the Swiss Alps, Caroline George spent her childhood playing in the mountains. After graduating from law school, she went on to compete in the ice climbing world cup before becoming a mountain guide. She’s climbed new routes around the world, including on Mount Patterson in the Canadian Rockies. In 2006, she and Jon Walsh opened The Shadow, a 220-metre VI WI6+R M6. She’s repeated some of the most classic and difficult alpine climbs and now works as an IFMGA mountain guide based out of Verbier, Switzerland. What were some of the first lessons you learned about alpine climbing? The hardest thing is finding the right partner. The skills you can learn along the way, you can fail and succeed, but who you share the rope…

Caroline George

Alpine Rock in Africa

The first ascent of Mount Kenya’s highest peak, Batian, at 5,199 metres, was in 1899 by a team led by Sir Halford John Mackinder. The climbers in the group included six Europeans, 66 Swahilis, two Maasai guides and 96 Kikuyu. They experienced many setbacks along the way but managed to reach the top on Sept. 13. Gerry Kearns, the author of Geopolitics and Empire: The legacy of Halford Mackinder, points out in his book that Mackinder killed eight of the 90 African porters he had bought from a slave owner to carry his supplies; saying that they were shot at his command. Mackinder and the first ascent of Africa’s second highest mountain is forever marred by his racism. The other major peak on Mount Kenya is Punta Nelion at 5,188 metres.…

Alpine Rock in Africa

Sydney Daniels started climbing in his hometown of Nairobi, Kenya, before moving to Canada. He’s now based in Calgary where he’s photographed climbers in local competitions and in the nearby Canadian Rockies. We touched base with him at the start of summer. How did you get into climbing? I got into climbing through a combination of curiosity and a desire for adventure. During primary school, we’d have the occasional hiking and backpacking trips to different mountains in the Rift Valley, namely Hell’s Gate and Mount Kenya. On one of these trips, I decided to give climbing a try. I started at a local crag near Nairobi to learn the basics and to get a feel for the sport. The more I climbed, the more I fell in love with the physical and…

The Frendo Spur

The Aiguille de Midi is one of Europe’s most famous mountains, thanks, in part, to the popular cable car. At 3,842 metres, the entire mountain is a climber’s playground, with dozens of classic routes from 5.5 to 5.13, with one of the best long alpine climbs being the Frendo Spur. It’s considered a rite of passage for young alpinists. If you’ve never been to Chamonix, then you might not know just how accessible the alpine is. From downtown, you can walk from your accommodations to the cable car’s lowest station and board it for a 20-minute ride that takes you from 1,035 to 3,842 metres—it still holds the record for the world’s highest vertical ascent cable car. The ride is broken into two sections, from Chamonix to Plan de l’Aiguille at…

The Frendo Spur

Hals und Beinbruch

Gros Bras has long been one of Quebec’s main climbing attractions. With dozens of routes up to 250 metres and ranging from 5.4 to 5.12, there is something for everyone. The granite is hard and has long crack systems. One of the first routes was climbed in 1970. The scenery in the valley helps make this location one of the best remote walls in eastern Canada. The base of the wall is over a kilometre wide and has a rough trail. The routes on this wall are adventurous and feel exposed. Hals Und Beinbruch (the German equivalent of the English saying “break a leg!”) has gained a reputation for having the best solid rock on the mountain. It climbs dihedrals, cracks, and slabs. The stone is coarse with positive features to…

Hals und Beinbruch

The Goat Whisperer

Squamish is home to some of Canada’s best multi-pitch rock climbs, some of which were first ascended back in the 1950s, like Angel’s Crest. Despite over 70 years of development, climbers are still finding new terrain to explore and open as previously unclimbed lines. One section of cliffs that’s been getting increased attention over the past 15 years is called The Barbarian Walls, found east of Slhanay. Among The Barbarian Walls are several sub sections: New Delhi, The Troglodyte Wall, Lantern Wall, Barbarian Wall and The Ruins—the newest wall. This area has hard climbing, with most climbs coming in at 5.11 and 5.12. Many of the routes have become classics at the grade, including the five-pitch Delhi Belly 5.12b, the four-pitch The Ganges 5.11c and The Barbarian’s Blade, a seven-pitch 5.13b…

The Goat Whisperer

Bolder Climbing Elevated

Calgary already had some of Canada’s best indoor climbing facilities before the opening of Bolder’s newest location, so it’s easy to understand why stoke is at an all time high in Alberta’s biggest city. Owners Josh Muller and Regan Kennedy spent years building their new dream gym, which is called Bolder Climbing Elevated. Muller and Kennedy already owned Bolder Climbing Community, an all-bouldering space in southeast Calgary, and they’re part owners of several other gyms. Muller announced after the doors opened at Bolder Climbing Elevated, “We faced many challenges along the way but with me and my incredible team working together we were able to complete this project and make it the incredible space it is today.” He gave a special thanks to Sebastian Powell, director of operations. The main difference from…

Bolder Climbing Elevated

Rockies Alpine Ice Faces

The Canadian Rockies have some of the best alpine faces in North America. Moving through big terrain far above the valley below as the sun rises is one of the best ways to experience the mountains. The climbs can lead to unforgettable experiences and can create lifelong partnerships. Alpine ice faces are complex and require patience and time to understand. Despite being formed of glacier ice, no two climbs are the same. There are dozens of world-class alpine ice faces in Banff and Jasper National Parks. The approaches range from a few hours to a full day and the descents from the summits are often dangerous and riddled with objective hazards. You want to gain experience moving on glaciers and up steep glacier ice before committing to any of these routes. The…

Rockies Alpine Ice Faces

Grip Training for Ice Climbing

Ice climbing can’t be hard—right!? Your ice tools are a portable pair of jugs. And you can make a “foothold” anywhere you want with a few swift kicks. How do you even get pumped climbing ice? To the uninitiated, this might seem almost believable but anyone who has tried their hand at ice climbing would laugh at this gross mischaracterization. And regardless of your ice climbing experience, I would suspect the consequences of an ice climbing leader’s fall should be obvious to anyone. This is the perfect time of year to start training for the fall alpine and winter ice season. Here are some tips to help you improve your pre-season training. Unless you ice climb exclusively in places that have an extremely short or no approach you need an aerobic base.…

Grip Training for Ice Climbing

Glory and Death

Alaska continues to be the focus of climbers from around the world looking to attempt dangerous routes above huge glaciers. Some of the most popular areas alpine climbers visit include the Kahiltna Glacier, Ruth Gorge and Kichatna Spires. Technical New Alpine Lines Two Canadians and one American took advantage of good spring conditions in to establish a new route up the west face of Mount Huntington. Zac Colbran, Grant Stewart and Dane Steadman linked corners and ice features to establish 700 metres of technical new ground before intersecting with the upper climbing of the Colton/Leach to the summit. They called the 1,300-metre route The Technicolor Super Dream, and it’s graded AI5+ M6+ A2. A few days after climbing their new route, Stewart and Steadman climbed a variation to the famous Harvard Route on…

Glory and Death

Paradise Valley

During a Squamish spring, the sun rises early in the morning, which makes for long days out climbing. And for me, the perfect place to spend a big day out climbing is at my favourite crag in Paradise Valley. The drive to the crag makes me feel calm and excited, as I travel over the Chekeye River, observing the bustling rapids while taking cover underneath the oak branched canopy that drapes its umbrella shadow of moss and freshly sprung leaves over the calm and often lonely road. The winding road curves and twists, and soon my old Toyota Corolla rumbles over the train tracks. It feels like the wheels of the rusty car are going to blow right off the axels. That last bumpy sprint acts as a waypoint, telling me…

Paradise Valley

Adventures on Yamnuska

There’s no other wall quite like it. The south-facing wall stretches for over two kilometres above steep slopes. The arching summit ridge resembles the pointy back of a prehistoric reptile, and the rock is so vertical that you almost always have hundreds of feet of air beneath you. The quality of the limestone ranges from as good as it gets to the worst you can imagine. There are pitons from 70 years ago welded in upside down cracks and bolts driven through shafts of hockey sticks. Old tat hangs from homemade 1970s hangers not far from modern expansion bolts. Since the 1950s, Yamnuska has been where up-and-coming climbers test themselves on climbs from generations ago. For 70 years, it’s been the heartbeat of Rockies multi-pitch trad and mixed climbing. The first…

Adventures on Yamnuska

Vedauwoo Bouldering

Vedauwoo is one of Wyoming’s best hard trad climbing areas, but it’s also home to some of America’s best crack bouldering. Dozens of classic problems, some of which were established by the best in the world, are scattered around between off-width test-piece routes. There are several climbers who’ve helped in the development of the boulders, including Justin Edl, who’s considered one of the strongest locals. “These boulders are hard,” said local photographer and climber Parker James about Edl’s lines. “They are painful. You will be so pumped that your entire body will feel like it’s going to explode, and so frustrated from slipping out yet again that you will want to quit climbing altogether. You will end up limping back to the car, and a nice family will ask what the…

Vedauwoo Bouldering

New Southeast Asia Hotspot

Cambodia is famous for ancient temples, like those in Khmer Kingdom, and over the past few years it’s even become popular for rock climbers. The country opened to tourism around 20 years ago, so it’s no wonder climbing is still in its early stages. There are some amazing crags in lush forests with well-protected routes. Japanese route developer Tadao Ito, also known as Chu San, was one of the first to realize the potential in Cambodia. At the start of the 2000s, he founded Angkor Climbers Net to introduce the sport to young climbers. After his death, his wife, Akiko Ito, and partner Seam Rorn took over Ito’s group. The first climbing gym was opened by Mary and Kristoph Luthy. And the first guidebook, called Rock Climbing in Cambodia, was by…

New Southeast Asia Hotspot

Rab Cirrus Flex 2.0 Women’s $230 Another outstanding jacket from Rab, with small baffles that provide ample heat to keep you warm while on the move or standing at a belay. It’s a breathable mid-layer that uses stretchy fabric. Fleece-sided panels have a fluffy and warm interior that helps to wick moisture away from your body. The 100-per-cent recycled synthetic insulation mimics the performance of high-end down. This trim down jacket is perfect for fall days at the crag and summer days in the alpine. Camp Alpine Express Dyneema 4-Pack $125 Every alpinist needs at least a handful of extendable quickdraws to reduce rope drag and to extend pro. You’ll feel confident with a set of Alpine Express on your harness as they’re easy to handle, thin and strong. The Dyneema slings absorb less water than nylon…

Scarpa Zodiac Tech GTX $439 Scarpa took the Zodiac Plus and added some technical features to make it a fantastic alpine climbing boot. Whether you’re climbing through icy mountain passes, up technical ice faces or on moderate rock, you’ll find these are well-suited for them all. They have a tacky Vibram outsole, a tough rubber rand, a strong leather construction and are waterproof. They’re more of a hybrid hiker/mountaineering boot, which makes them perfect for those remote routes that require a long approach. Arc’teryx Acrux LT GTX Boot $530 These three-season boots have gone through minor improvements over the years and now come in a brighter colour. They’re light, offer amazing precision and maintain their waterproofness. From crossing streams to hiking up deep scree, to post-holing up snow, to climbing glaciers with crampons on, to technical alpine…

Arc’teryx Aerios Aura Shoe $180 A new breathable shoe that’s made to help you move fast. It can handle steep and technical trails that take you from valley bottom to the base of the ridge. It has an upper mesh that keeps you cool on hot days and feels comfortable all day once broken in. The Vibram sole gives you confidence when moving up ground, where friction helps. La Sportiva TX4 R Approach Shoes $225 A retro look combined with a great approach shoe. It has a nubuck leather upper and a sturdy toecap that will let you rest easy knowing your feet will be safe on rugged, rocky ground. The lacing is borrowed from the amazing Mythos rock shoe, which locks your foot in. The sole gives solid edging capabilities, and the padded tongue is made…

New B.C. Alpine 5.10 Jim and Jola Sandford climbed a new 200-metre rock route called Earthshine, on the south face of Mount Habrich above Squamish, earlier this year. It heads up right of the old Southwest Nose route up a series of pitches no harder than 5.10a. For gear, you just need six cams and eight quickdraws. It can be rappelled, or you can downclimb the northwest face descent. Habrich, accessed via the Sea to Sky Gondola at Shannon Falls, is famous for several routes, including Life on Earth, which was first climbed in 1994 by Robin Barley, Nick Barley and Kevin McLane. Big Show Climbed Trad Eli Bucher climbed Freewill 5.13c on the Big Show in Cheakamus Canyon near Squamish using only trad gear. This is the first known ascent of the…

New World Class 5.13a

Anvil Island is Becoming a Must-Visit Squamish Crag Anvil Island has been seeing a lot of action this year. Found in the middle of the Howe Sound between Vancouver and Squamish, and only accessible by water, the island has some steep granite walls. Development began a few years ago, and in late May, Tim Emmett sent his hard project called Archimedes Principle 5.14b. In early June, Sonnie Trotter made the third ascent of Emmett’s other mega line at the crag called Apnea 5.13d/14a. On June 14, Ben Harnden made the first repeat of Archimedes Principle and confirmed the grade. Emilie Pellerin then also repeated Apnea. One of the most exciting sends was by Trevor McDonald, who established one of the Sea-to-Sky region’s most epic-looking 5.13a sport routes, which he’s named Dr.…

New World Class 5.13a

Thunder Bay Climbing: A Guide to Northwest Ontario’s Best Kept Secret Aric Fishman, 2023 To write a good guidebook takes expertise, patience, good communication skills and thousands of hours of work. Aric Fishman poured his soul into this book, which, even if you don’t plan to ever visit Thunder Bay, makes it a must-have. There’s just something great about having printed guidebooks on your bookshelf to areas you’ve never been. Fishman is more than just a guidebook author, he’s the local climbing guru and owner of a guiding company in northwestern Ontario. There’s no better climber to compile this second-edition guidebook. The book includes over 900 climbs, 18 areas, hundreds of photos, and easy-to-understand topos. It includes old areas such as Terry Fox Monument, Mount Godfrey, Silver Harbour, Pass Lake, Orient Bay, Claghorn…

A Rescue in the Rockies

When Michelle Dvorak felt herself going for a “long sideways ride,” she wasn’t completely surprised. Into their second day climbing the storied Greenwood-Locke route on the looming north face of 3954-metre Mount Temple, she and her climbing partner, Kurt Ross, had encountered lots of loose rock that the Canadian Rockies are notorious for. What did surprise her was how much it hurt when her body hit the rock, breaking a few small bones. “I think I fell about 20 feet,” she said from her Seattle-area home, where she was comfortably recovering two weeks after the March 23 accident. “Although I try not to make a habit of falling on gear—especially while wearing crampons—it would not have been the first whipper that had me awkwardly swinging and hitting my side on a rock…

A Rescue in the Rockies

Book your marketplace or classified advertisement today. Contact Andre Cheuk andre@gripped.com Gyms Quebec Allez-Up1339 rue ShearerMontreal, QC514.989.9656allezup.com Escalade Horizon Roc2350 DicksonMontreal, QC514.899.5000horizonroc.com Ontario Ajax Rock OasisAjax Community Centre75 Centennial Rd.Ajax, ON905.231.3434905.231.9934 faxinfoajax@rockoasis.comrockoasis.com Climber’s Rock5155 Harvester Rd.,Burlington, ON905.633.7625info@climbersrock.comclimbersrock.com40 min. from Toronto Climate controlled! 12,000 square feet100 + toprope routes108 feet of continuous top-out bouldering! The Guelph Grotto Indoor Climbing Gym199 Victoria Rd. SGuelph, ON800.454.0456519.767.0838519.767.2408 faxinfo@guelphgrotto.comguelphgrotto.com Joe Rockhead’s Climbing Gym29 Fraser Ave.Toronto, ON416.538.7670joerockheads.com Of Rock & Chalk482 Ontario St.Newmarket, ON888.248.7625rockandchalk@hotmail.comrockandchalk.com The Rock Oasis388 Carlaw Ave.Suite 204Toronto, ON416.703.3434infotoronto@rockoasis.comrockoasis.com Manitoba Vertical Adventures Climbing Gym77 Paramount Rd.Winnipeg, MB204.632.5001verticaladventures.ca Alberta University of Calgary Outdoor Centre Climbing Wall2500 University Dr. NWCalgary, AB403.220.5038climb@ucalgary.caoutdoor-centre.ucalgary.caThe indoor climbing wall at the Outdoor Centre is the first and only of its kind in Calgary. It features molded concrete panels imbedded with real quartzite that is set at different angles with overhangs. The wall simulates outdoor climbing and…

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