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28 Articles

Editor’s letter

And here we are again, another year nearly done, another Christmas fast approaching. Last year, like so many others, my festive plans were thrown into disarray by Sydney’s Northern Beaches outbreak, leaving me with a 10-kilogram ham and just five guests to eat it. (It has to be said, the Gourmet Traveller recipe archive really proved its worth when it came to dealing with leftovers.) Last year, I wrote that 2020 had taught me to find joy where you can and accept things for what they are. This year, that lesson became a masterclass. So instead of feeling aggrieved that – once again – I can’t be with my family for Christmas, I am grateful that I was able to see them earlier in the year. And that I am…

Editor’s letter

Dishes and destinations

Lana, Sydney Head chef Alex Wong cleverly peppers Italian staples with subtle Asian flavours at this glamorous fine diner, as showcased in this pork and prawn cappelletti with dashi. Hot tip: the opening snacks are easily some of Sydney’s best new bites. Hinchcliff House, Sydney, NSW. Lauren de Sousa, art director Kouzína, Byron Bay Bright, handsome tomatoes lay ready for prepping at Byron’s blissful, alfresco Greek taverna, Kouzína, which sits quietly tucked away in the sunny backstreets of the town’s Industrial Estate. 1 Acacia St, Byron Bay, NSW. Georgie Meredith, writer and editorial coordinator Garum, Perth Do these artichoke and pecorino-filled semolina dumplings in a broad bean sauce scream Roman? Ummm. Do they chime with Guy Grossi’s reputation for gratifying, Italian cooking? Absolutely. 480 Hay St, Perth, WA. Max Veenhuyzen,…

Dishes and destinations

RESTAURANT NEWS

SYDNEY Bondi has welcomed Lola’s Level 1 along with its Mediterranean snacks and well-made cocktails. Chef Paula Pantano is dishing up a cracking pan tumaca (bread with tomato); tender plancha-grilled octopus; and peppers topped with anchovies. Backed by owners Marco Ambrosino (Fratelli Paradiso) and Manny Spinola (Grand Pacific Group), Lola’s is bringing serious snacks and a refined vibe that this part of the beachside ’burb has been lacking. Wine importers Giorgio De Maria and Mattia Dicati have teamed up with Enrico Tomelleri (ex-10 William, Ragazzi) for Paski Vineria Popolare, a wine bar, restaurant and shop located where This Must Be The Place once was. Expect charcuterie, wodges of cheese and glasses chinking downstairs, alongside 400-plus bottles of mostly Italian vinos to browse. Upstairs, Paski Sopra will offer an extended menu…

RESTAURANT NEWS

Christmas sorted

Have a drink station set up with printed recipes so guests can get drinks in their hands quickly, and also have a bit of fun while making them. Nick Bennett, Arbory Bar and Eatery Clean as you go and then let your dishwasher do the rest. Somat’s dishwashing products ensure a single cycle is all that’s needed to clean roasting pans, plates and dishes. GT food team One of my favourite serve-your-own set-ups is a little caviar station, with a few tins of caviar, some crème fraîche, chives and cute little blinis! My go-to recipe is the buttermilk blini recipe from GT. Especially after the wild last two years where a lot of people haven’t been able to see their families for Christmas, everyone should get treated to something extra…

Christmas sorted

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One of my colleagues often says, “there are enhancers and then there are detractors” in life. And I completely agree. My dear friend and mentor of more than 10 years, Sam Mostyn, is definitely an enhancer! During these past few months I was able to connect with Sam regularly during our volunteer shifts at the Addi Road Community Organisation and just being around her amazing energy and wisdom lifted spirits immensely. COMMUNITY X KYLIE Trying to cram Sam Mostyn’s extensive CV onto a single page is impossible; there are simply too many important roles and achievements to list. Earlier this year, she was appointed an Officer of the Order of Australia for her services to business and sustainability, to the community and to women. All you really need to know…

Strawberries have long been associated with love and eroticism. They are, themselves, the product of an international romance between two wild strawberries from opposite ends of the Americas, thrown together by circumstance. The cultivated strawberry’s father, the Virginia strawberry, inhabits the forests of North America, where it was a food source for Native Americans. Its tiny, fragrant fruits could be mashed into a loaf and dried for use as food over winter. The cultivated strawberry’s mother, the beach strawberry, comes from Chile. The Indigenous Mapuche people cultivated the beach strawberry for its much larger, but rather insipid fruits. The Spanish colonists called it frutilla, the “little fruit”. Under normal circumstances, the Virginia and beach strawberries would never have met, but humans have a habit of playing matchmaker. The Virginia strawberry…

The bronze mesh curtain obscuring Essa’s streetfront window is a clue. If you want grandstanding, try elsewhere. Here, it’s the intriguing glimpses that lure you in and the quiet focus of a gun team that keeps you on the edge of your seat. Originally conceived as a sibling to Brisbane’s boldly creative Gauge, Essa’s four-year gestation was beset by plot twists. By the time head chef Phil Marchant lit Essa’s wood-fired grill in August, curiosity was white hot. Gauge founder Jerome Batten had quietly stepped away and Marchant, former Gauge head chef, had stepped up as co-owner of Essa with Angela Sclavos. Yet despite the bumpy backstory, Essa’s entry to the (just off) James Street dining scene has been admirably fluid. You can sense this confidence in its tight menu,…

Step inside an anonymous office building and take the lift to the seventh floor. Walk up a flight of stairs, past an office, an unmarked door and a gargantuan timber bust of Pablo Picasso. Make your way through a timber-slatted corridor, then into a rooftop courtyard and suddenly, a wall of floor-to-ceiling glass spreads Hobart at your feet. Welcome to Seven and a Half, chef Luke Burgess’s take on a Tokyo private dining club that’s just popped up for 12 months at what was formerly a luxury short stay apartment. Not so much a restaurant as an intimate dining experience, Burgess serves just 10 people at each sitting – stay as long as you like. The set menu varies depending on the availability of produce and Burgess’s mood, which is…

NEW GIRL IN TOWN

Four small, perfectly uniform dumplings float on a dark and viscous caramel. Chopped raisins and a textbook quenelle of whipped malt cream, which begins to cascade from the residual heat, decorate the top, while the sweet scent of golden syrup and rum perfume the air. The dessert is a riff on a legendary CWA recipe, and if there is one dish that typifies Ursula’s, this is it: an old classic made new again. The modern-classic theme is one that runs deep at Paddington’s new neighbourhood restaurant and the first independent venture from Phil Wood, former culinary director at Pt. Leo Estate in the Mornington Peninsula, and his wife, Lis Davies. It materialises in the dramatic transformation of the corner terrace – a historic building that has been home to a…

NEW GIRL IN TOWN

SCARBOROUGH FARE

Surf! Parties! Dancing at the Snake Pit! For decades, these were the things that drew people to the beachside suburb of Scarborough. Eating? Not so much, or at least until the middle of the last decade when, buoyed by the new $100 million Scarborough foreshore redevelopment nearing completion, next-gen food and drink businesses such as Mexican cantina El Grotto and fishmonger Stone Jetty began emerging from the woodworks. The newest reason to rethink perceptions of dining in Scarborough is The Corner Dairy, a four-month-old neighbourhood bar from brothers and freshly minted publicans Tom and Sam Hart. Because Corner Dairy is on the northern side of Scarborough Beach Road, it technically resides in neighbouring Doubleview, yet the Scarborough Force is strong in this one. The room’s blond timber and bi-fold windows…

SCARBOROUGH FARE

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE Udon noodles with corn and sizzled ginger dressing SERVES 4 //PREP TIME 15 MINS //COOK 20 MINS 180 ml (¾ cup) grapeseed oil4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced75 gm ginger, cut into matchsticks1½ tsp chilli flakes60 ml (¼ cup) soy sauce1½ tbsp rice wine vinegar400 gm fresh udon noodles1 tbsp sesame oil750 gm baby corn, halved lengthways2 spring onions, trimmed, finely choppedSnow pea tendrils, shredded nori sheets and kimchi, to serve 1 Heat oil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add garlic and ginger and bring to a gentle simmer (1 minute). Reduce heat to low; cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic and ginger are golden (5 minutes). Remove from heat and set aside to infuse (5 minutes). Stir in chilli flakes, soy sauce and vinegar.…

Christmas pudding

The Christmas pudding is a divisive dessert – flecked with fruit and spiked with brandy, it requires an affinity for rich flavours and a stomach with enough wriggle room for dessert – yet it cannot be denied that its presence on the festive table brings a sense of nostalgia to the day’s final course. Like any age-old dish, there are myths and legends bound to its history. Whatever the tale, those who love this traditional British treat are fiercely particular about how it should be made. A common kitchen battle that arises is whether to steam or boil the final mixture. GT’s food director Sophia Young argues for boiled, resulting in a slightly denser and richer pudding. “Since Christmas falls in summer, the English tradition of hanging and aging a…

Christmas pudding

Tempering chocolate

Achieving a perfectly glossy, smooth and snappable slick of chocolate relies on the process of tempering. At precise temperatures, cocoa butter crystals will re-bond in a tight formation, creating shine and texture worthy of showstopping sweet treats. Daunting? Sure. But with a careful read of instructions, a good-quality digital thermometer and plenty of extra chocolate, delicious and decorative chocolate leaves can be atop every bite. Step by step 1 For 500gm of chocolate, gently heat 375gm coarsely chopped chocolate over a bowl of barely simmering water, ensuring bowl doesn’t touch the surface of the water. Stir continuously, then remove from heat when chocolate reaches 48˚C on a digital thermometer and has melted. 2 For seeding, add 125gm chopped chocolate and stir until temperature reaches 26˚C, all pieces have dissolved and…

Tempering chocolate

SUMMER DRINKS GUIDE

Bright colours, eye-catching labels, interesting flavour combinations, and drinks that are equal parts fun and delicious is what we’re aiming for this summer. After a year that was, for many of us, far from fun, it’s time to shake things up. Bring back a mid-week cocktail hour with new and exciting Australian-produced bottled cocktails, explore experimental whites and lesser-seen varieties like aligoté and musque, or crunchy, chill-them-down reds like gamay. Even the sans alcohol world is pushing the boundaries with refreshments that are so enticing you won’t miss the buzz. WHITES AND LIGHTS 1 2020 Mac Forbes EB63 ‘Princess Leia’ Aligoté, King Valley, Vic, $30 The first release of aligoté under Mac’s Experimental Batch range from King Valley-sourced fruit shows the appeal for growing this variety in Australia. Known as the…

SUMMER DRINKS GUIDE

TIDES OF CHANGE

ESCA KHOO CREATOR OF DALAM NUSANTARA AND HEAD CHEF AT MISS MI, MÖ VENPICK HOTEL, MELBOURNE With his restaurant opening delayed due to lockdown, the head chef used the time to rediscover his heritage and reflect on the kind of chef and leader he wants to be. This year in August I started the Dalam Nusantara in lockdown. It means “in the archipelago” and it’s an evolving pop-up restaurant where I explore the islands in between maritime Southeast Asia, including Sumatra, Java, Sulawesi, Borneo and New Guinea, through food. I wanted to create a unique idea, one where I can work on dishes and develop them. I want to keep taking Asian food to a different perspective and continue diving deeper into the different rural and regional dishes, immersing myself…

TIDES OF CHANGE

THE 2021 ROUNDUP

MOST-VIEWED STORIES 1 Amy Chanta, founder of Sydney’s Chat Thai, has died MARCH 2 Coming soon: the most anticipated new restaurants of 2021 JANUARY 3 What’s in a name? The power and privilege behind problematic restaurant names FEBRUARY 4 Coming soon to Sydney: Amah, a new Malaysian restaurant from the Ho Jiak group APRIL 5 Border closures aren’t the only cause of hospitality’s labour crisis MAY MOST-LIKED POSTS 1. FLOURLESS CAKES2. NIK HILL’S CAULIFLOWER CHEESE TART3. AL DENTE ENOTECA’S TORTELLINI CACIO E PEPE4. BETHANY FINN’S LEMON DELICIOUS PUDDING5. BEEF RENDANG PIES TOP-SELLING ISSUES 1. AUGUST THE WINTER ITALIAN ISSUE 2. NOVEMBER THE CELEBRATION SPECIAL 3. MARCH THE HARVEST ISSUE MOST-LIKED COVERS THANK YOU TO OUR 796,616 FOLLOWERS ON INSTAGRAM AND FACEBOOK Travel tales This year, we covered more regional destinations…

THE 2021 ROUNDUP

2021 TREND WATCH

NEIGHBOURHOOD BOTTLE SHOP-MEETS-SNACK STOP Known as cave à manger in France, this hybrid bottle shop and wine bar model has become a firm favourite thanks to its flexible, fun and educational grab-and-go or sit-in approach. Try it: Waygood (pictured), P&V Paddington, Public Wine Shop, Paranormal Wines, La Salut, Casa and LOC. LADY LUCK Mothers, grandmothers and other matriarchal figures became the ticket when searching for a restaurant name. Try it: Roxy’s (pictured), Jane, Lola’s, Ursula’s and Margaret. THE RESURGENCE OF THE FRENCH BISTRO Along with bistro dishes, such as steak frites and tartare, appearing on menus everywhere from pubs to cafés, the French bistro is back, both remixed and traditional. Try it: Bisou Bisou (pictured), Bistro 916, Chancery Lane and Smith St Bistro (coming soon). GUÉRIDON SERVICE The decadence of…

2021 TREND WATCH

BOOKS OF THE YEAR

ONE: POT, PAN, PLANET, ANNA JONES As a guiding voice on modern vegetarian cooking, Jones celebrates plant-based cooking in a pragmatic yet joyful way. With chapters arranged by tray, pot and pan, it manages to be both a weeknight saviour and a sly sustainability champion. (Harper Collins, $49.99) WILD SWEETNESS, THALIA HO There’s a novel escapism present in Ho’s recipes, courtesy of her poetic prose and captivating, ethereal photography. Across 95 recipes exclusively for sweet treats, Ho infuses nature’s rhythms and reactions as themes for each chapter. (Harper Collins, $39.99) RECIPE FOR A KINDER LIFE, ANNIE SMITHERS In this ode to the slow life, Smithers shares lessons and recipes from the land. Personal insights and easily applied practices accompany seasonal recipes, showing the love that flows from using a gentle…

BOOKS OF THE YEAR

STATE OF THE PLATE

TRUFFLE AT SÔL, RESTAURANT BOTANIC AND ADELAIDE CENTRAL MARKET South Australia The best bites I indulged in this year all involved truffle. Back in the days of giant pepper grinders and powdered parmesan, truffle would usually be doled out sparingly, if at all. You were more likely to get a synthetic and vaguely truffle-smelling oil, or the precious fungus mashed in with some more prosaic mushroom. Not now. When I visited SkyCity’s Sôl restaurant, an enormous and gnarly specimen was displayed on crisp linen, flakes of it on more than one dish. And at Restaurant Botanic, the truffle was handled nonchalantly – a mandolin, a generous hand, a luxurious flourish. While at Adelaide Central Market, I sampled soft cheeses marbled with the magical fungus; and stopped by the Mushroom Man’s…

STATE OF THE PLATE

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Coastal Christmas

Coral trout with saffron and Sherry-roasted onions SERVES 4-6 //PREP TIME 25 MINS //COOK 50 MINS (PLUS STANDING, RESTING) “As a wild-caught species, supply of coral trout will depend on fishing conditions,” says John Susman of Fishtales. “Get in touch with your fishmonger well in advance. Alternatively, use a white-fleshed fish, such as snapper or hapuka.” 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil6 onions, thickly sliced (800gm)250 ml (1 cup) dry Sherry1 whole coral trout (1.5 kg), cleaned (see note)100 gm unsalted butter, chopped4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced¼ tsp saffron threads500 ml (2 cups) fish stock1 tbsp caster sugar1 small bay leaf2 tbsp Sherry vinegar2 tbsp finely chopped chives Baby nasturtium leaves, to serve 1 Preheat oven to 240˚C. Heat oil in a large non-stick frying pan over high heat. In two…

Coastal Christmas

’TIS THE SEASON

Burnt honey and pineapple-glazed duck SERVES 4-6 //PREP TIME 30 MINS //COOK 1 HR 15 MINS (PLUS COOLING, RESTING) Duck à l’orange meets Chinese barbecued duck in this slightly sweet and sticky centrepiece. Begin this recipe a day ahead. 1 whole duck (about 2kg)300 gm honey200 ml fresh pineapple juice120 gm char siu or hoisin saucePeel of 2 limes, cut into stripsCharred lime halves, to serve 1 Pat duck dry with paper towel, then tie legs together and place on a wire rack over a roasting pan. Refrigerate uncovered overnight to dry out skin. 2 Meanwhile, place half of the honey in a large heavy-based saucepan over high heat and cook, swirling pan, until caramelised (3-4 minutes). Taking care of spitting caramel, gradually add pineapple juice and use a metal…

’TIS THE SEASON

COMFORT AND JOY

Spiced plum, cherry and coffee trifle with cardamom crumb SERVES 10-12 //PREP TIME 1 HR //COOK 30 MINS (PLUS CHILLING, COOLING) Heady with spice, coffee and fruit, this cheerful trifle is delightfully easy to make. 900 gm store-bought cakes (see note) SPICED PLUM AND CHERRY COMPOTE 6 cardamom pods, bruised6 black peppercorns1 cinnamon quill4 cm piece ginger, thinly sliced2 bay leaves220 gm (1 cup) caster sugar6 blood plums, stones removed and quartered300 gm cherries, pitted and halved, plus extra whole cherries to serve CARDAMOM CRUMB 150 gm (1 cup) plain flour½ tsp baking powder1 tsp ground cardamom75 gm (⅓ cup) demerara sugar110 gm unsalted butter, cut into 1cm pieces2 tbsp milk COFFEE SYRUP 1 tbsp instant coffee granules1 tbsp caster sugar125 ml (½ cup) coffee liqueur, such as Mr Black…

COMFORT AND JOY

FEAST of flavours

An archipelago of incredible breadth, the Philippines boasts 7,107 islands, separated yet bound together by water – inland seas at the furthest points and straits and channels at the nearest. Together, its coastline is the longest discontinuous stretch in the world. Spread across this vast land and 80 ethno-linguistic groups is a shared heritage, as well as palate. Go anywhere and there’s a version of adobo, kare-kare and kakakin. Yet in each small town and city, you’ll find vibrant local cuisines, carved from their unique terrain and set of traditions. From the small towns and far-flung islands to the historic, illustrious cities, I’ve had the good fortune of visiting many of these places. Many recipes in this collection showcase enchanting flavours and uncommon ingredients I encountered for the first time…

FEAST of flavours

The art of… travel dreaming

The Christmas holidays are a time not exactly short on traditions, but traditions are like sea salt caramel truffles: we can always fit another one in. And one of my most cherished New Year traditions is to plan my travel agenda for the year ahead. Trust me, sitting with a pile of old travel magazines or newspaper supplements and daydreaming about holidays in 2022 is an ideal hangover pastime, an edifying and easy escape from doing the dishes or having to hear someone talk about how they used lockdown “as a great opportunity to get really fit”. It’s also a perfect slightly tipsy pastime; a Negroni only enhances our ambition and creativity. I maintain this delightful New Year tradition wherever I am in the world. I’ve had memorable new year…

The art of… travel dreaming

There’s a humpback whale blowing off steam in the middle distance, and closer to shore board-riders and swimmers breasting the waves. We’ve scored a coveted lunch spot out on the deck at The Tropic, hard up against the railing directly above the beach at Burleigh Heads, on the southern end of Queensland’s Gold Coast. Looking northwards along the sand, spectacular views stretch all the way up to the high-rises of Surfers Paradise. Sitting temptingly between us is a sunshine-yellow table filled with small plates. There’s beef tartare with a tiny quail egg, white anchovies dressed in olive oil, taramasalata and a loaf of house sourdough – all the tasty handiwork of The Tropic head chef Guillaume Zika and his team. Zika, once head chef at London’s now closed 2 Michelin…

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