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30 Articles

ADAM GOPNIK is a staff writer for The New Yorker and the author of many books, including bestsellers Paris to the Moon and Through the Children’s Gate. His new book, The Real Work: On the Mystery of Mastery, will be published in March. For Esquire, he writes about another string to his bow: his adventures in acting, especially a cameo in Tár, Todd Field’s current film, in which Gopnik appears opposite Cate Blanchett. ‘NOTES OF A BAPTISED PENGUIN’, PAGE 146 MISAN HARRIMAN is an activist, an entrepreneur and a photographer whose work has appeared in Vogue and Vanity Fair. He is also chair of the Southbank Centre in London. ‘BECOMING IDRIS ELBA’, PAGE 94 TABITHA LASLEY is the author of Sea State, which was shortlisted for the Gordon Burn Prize and the Portico Prize. ‘BURN BEFORE WRITING’, PAGE 85 JOHNNY DAVIS used…

Time, gentlemen, please?

FANCY A PINT? INCREASINGLY, THE answer to that most companionable question is a polite but definitive, “no”. And even when it’s, “Go on, then”, the pint might have a crucial difference from all previous pints you’ve ever sunk. There’s a missing ingredient, a significant one: alcohol. While booze sales drain away, pubs are shuttered, and the liquid lunch goes the way of the office romance (they still happen, but management no longer approves), a cottage industry is thriving, serving drinkers of beer and wine and spirits who are interested in the taste and the ritual, but the buzz, apparently, not so much. “Sober-curious” is the mildly infuriating buzz-phrase. “Mindful drinking” is the other. And while zero-alcohol beer, previously soapy and unconvincing, alcohol-free wine and the dreaded mocktail have long been available, alongside…

Time, gentlemen, please?

Going green? McLaren introduces a hybrid supercar The manner in which car manufacturers tend to launch their latest models has followed the same pattern for years. Fly a troupe of journalists and, more recently, influencers, to a glamorous hotel somewhere sunny, with nice roads and scenic backdrops within easy reach. On arrival, ply with drinks, canapés and strategic marketing messages. Next morning, put them in a car and wave them off. And cross your fingers. The hope is that everyone returns in one piece and that nice things are written about the particular machine in the spotlight. As an invited guest, it’s all very pleasant and, at the same time, very odd. Smiling people in branded T-shirts usher you from hotel to car park to snack trolley to toilet break, only stopping…

It’s rare that a film’s title doubles as its elevator pitch, but here is Cocaine Bear, a movie about — what else? — a bear on cocaine. Made by the American actor and, more recently, director Elizabeth Banks, the horror-comedy-thriller tells the story of a black bear that embarks on a murderous rampage through Georgia. There are drug jokes, there is death: Paddington, this ain’t. And, if the joyful reaction to the trailer is anything to go by, people really dig this bear who can’t get enough of the white stuff. “I think it is a great reminder not to take everything so fucking seriously,” says Banks, 49, of the film’s irreverent approach, on a Zoom call from Los Angeles. “It’s like going to the amusement park and getting on a…

Dive! Dive! Dive!

Dive watches remain the number-one bestselling style for men, though it can be hard to fathom why. It’s unlikely you’ve ever met anyone who’s used one to go diving. Professionals have relied on computers and decompression meters for the last 40 years and virtually any watch released today — including the Apple Watch — is waterproof to at least 10 metres, which is plenty for any non-advanced scuba activity. Yet the classic diver style endures: rugged, outsized and usually equipped with a unidirectional bezel (the clicky outer ring designed to record time spent underwater). The fact is, dive watches look cool. They feel authentic, signal a certain active lifestyle and look solidly made and tough, usually because they are. (The appeal of being able to fiddle with the clicky outer ring shouldn’t…

Dive! Dive! Dive!

‘Everything is just Dingley Dell’

For a chef and restaurateur whose ethos is so fundamental — some might say foundational — to the current London restaurant scene, the news that Margot Henderson OBE, founder of Rochelle Canteen in Shoreditch and wife of St John’s Fergus Henderson, is opening her very first pub is a big deal. But it’s the fact that The Three Horseshoes is not in the capital, but in the tiny village of Batcombe in the West Country, that will really set the cat amongst the (confit) pigeons. “Somerset is such a rich, amazing place full of incredible suppliers,” is how Henderson describes the county in which the 17th-century coaching inn is located; she’s currently renovating it with a view to opening in March. “It’s a chef’s heaven. I was driving around the first…

‘Everything is just Dingley Dell’

The trend for all things 1990s continues apace, and now, in addition to all the stonewash denim, oversized blazers and retro sportswear, it’s taken hold of luggage, too. Italian brand Tod’s first introduced its “Di” bag in the Nineties (a favourite of Princess Diana, and other luminaries of the decade), and now, pulled from the archive by creative director Walter Chiapponi, the design has been reimagined. It’s softer and more supple than before — thanks to the calf-skin leather — and available in a range of colours. But its most obvious virtue is its size: big enough for a weekend away, but small enough for the commute, and there’s even space for your (90s-style) gym kit. ○ Di bag in brown calf-skin, £2,670; quilted jacket, £840; knitted turtle-neck, £750; trousers, £640;…

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ONLY £19.99 for four issues of Esquire SAVE 28 per cent on the cover price FREE delivery, direct to your door To subscribe, visit: hearstmagazines.co.uk/eq-magazine or call 01858 438 770 and quote offer code 1EQ11922 Offer valid for new UK subscriptions by Direct Debit. After your first year, your subscription will continue at £19.99 a year unless you are notified otherwise. The standard subscription price is £28 for four issues of ESQUIRE, based on the standard cover price of £7. Subscriptions may not include promotional items packaged with the magazine. All orders will be acknowledged and you will be advised of the start issue within 14 days. Subscriptions may be cancelled by providing 28 days’ notice. This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other subscription offer and closes on 10 May 2023.…

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Control, alter, delete

Last spring, the artist Mike Nelson went on holiday for a week to the southwest of France. The weather was awful and, on a particularly unforgiving day, when the rain was all but horizontal, he and his partner, the artist Rachel Lowe, and the friends they were staying with took shelter in a small, brutalist museum in the village of Tautavel. The museum, it turned out, was dedicated to the 450,000-year-old Tautavel Man, an ancestor of the Neanderthals, whose remains — the oldest ever found in France — were discovered in a limestone cave, alongside stone tools and animal bones. “It was just us in the museum and nobody else, and all this Neolithic stuff around us, and these sand-like vistas, and I was thinking, ‘My god,’” says the Loughborough-born Nelson,…

Control, alter, delete

‘Do not move while playing!’

The perfect 1980s gift for fans of Meat Loaf, Bon Jovi or Patti Smith, the Sound Burger was a bright-red portable plastic record player that came in a clam-shell design and with the advisory sticker, “Do not move while playing!” Created in 1982 in a doomed attempt to head off the inexorable rise of shiny new CDs, the vinyl player — “Today’s high-tech takeaway. Amazing looks… even more amazing sound!” — was soon consigned to the “Where are they now?” file. A fixture of hi-fi nerds’ weirdest-products-ever lists since, the Sound Burger has recently enjoyed a minor comeback. A 3D-printing template is available online, while eBay sellers have been flipping units of the £89.95 (including VAT) original for more than £500. Now, its maker, the Japanese audio brand Audio-Technica, has reissued the Sound…

‘Do not move while playing!’

How far would you go to protect a recipe for fried chicken? If you set up Bao, a restaurant in Soho, central London, infamous for its patient queue of would-be diners, you might just surprise yourself. In the original restaurant’s early days, the three founders — Erchen Chang and siblings Wai Ting Chung and Shing Tat Chung — would suit up in gloves, masks and lab coats to mix the spices themselves, ensuring the recipe wasn’t leaked. But as Bao expanded and demand soared, that cloak-and-dagger approach became unsustainable. They eventually sourced an external producer, though, naturally, an NDA was signed. With the release of the restaurant’s first cookbook, Bao, this month, that fried chicken recipe is about to be common knowledge. “When you open something successful, you claw onto the…

Focus on Britain

James Hyman stands in the basement of a deserted three-floor shop on Jermyn Street, the hallowed menswear shopping destination in St James’s, and fishes through a bin bag. Around him is the detritus left by the former occupants, a high-end Italian tailor. Clothes rails, hangers, a sad chair. The building doesn’t look like a landmark centre for British photography just yet, but that is very much Hyman’s plan. “I was trying, last night, to work out where the pictures should go,” he explains, riffling in the bin bag and producing photocopies of some black-and-white photographs that had, until recently, been stuck to the walls. They are reproductions of work by Colin Jones, the ballet dancer-turned-photographer, and celebrated documenter of postwar Britain. Overnight, it seems, someone has binned them. “Were there lots of…

Focus on Britain

The afternoon I speak with the ground-breaking designer Miminat Shodeinde, she has just filed her first column for the Financial Times. Its subject: “Is Instagram a problem for interior designers?” In summary, she thinks it is. “It’s quite punchy,” Shodeinde chuckles, about her article’s stance. It’s not just interior design, or Instagram, of course. From Pinterest to Reddit to Spotify, social media has created a conspiracy of “good taste”: a homogenous and fallacious consensus of what we should all like. Starting a watch collection? A YouTuber will tell you which half-dozen models to buy. Curious about Italo Disco? The canon is pre-approved on an Apple Music “Essentials” playlist. “Everything is so accessible,” she says. “You can just log on to Instagram, see something you like and ask to get it replicated. If clients show…

Before he was an actor — and now, with his first play, Black Superhero, opening at London’s Royal Court, a playwright — Danny Lee Wynter was an usher at the theatre that would end up staging his debut. It was the early 2000s, and he was studying on a scholarship at Lamda, the prestigious London drama school whose alumni include Benedict Cumberbatch and Chiwetel Ejiofor. But the ushering gig, he says, sitting in his airy living room in Forest Gate, east London, groaning bookshelves on one wall and a cluster of pictures over the sofa, was transformative. “I can’t overstate it — the job at the Royal Court sits alongside my experience of going to drama school. Seeing those plays and being around actors, directors, and the whole creative teams around…

Liquid lunch, and dinner

The best hotel in Venice isn’t really in Venice. Well, not the Venice we know, anyway. The waterbound city, miraculous and spellbinding, can sometimes prove a little overwhelming. Which is perhaps why Giuseppe Cipriani — founder of Venice institution Harry’s Bar and inventor of the Bellini cocktail — decided to open his eponymous hotel across the lagoon from Piazza San Marco, on the quiet, breezy island of Giudecca. Five minutes by vaporetto to what feels like another planet entirely. The hotel, now officially known as the Belmond Cipriani, turns 65 this year and is rightly regarded as one of the world’s very best places to rest your head. Now, thanks to the arrival of one of Italy’s most exciting young chefs, it’s one of the best places to eat, too. Born in…

Liquid lunch, and dinner

Fifty shades of beige

In the series three finale of Succession — the one with the Italian wedding — the craven simp-turned-arch Machiavel Tom Wambsgans (Matthew Macfadyen) eschews his usual wardrobe of drab business tailoring and golf-casual knits for an easy, breezy suit in cream linen. Narratively, he blossomed from a worm to a backstabbing butterfly; sartorially, from a mark to a master of the universe. Pitchperfect styling because, for some time now, neutral shades have been the reserve of the super-rich. But this spring, beige and its spectrum have made the shift from millionaire-wear to high fashion. It’s often the case that runway shows agree on the definitive shades of the season, but rarely is it so definitive. In June of last year in London, Milan and Paris, scores of designers decided that dressing…

Fifty shades of beige

White sole shuffle

As documented by the Instagram account @jonahfits, Hollywood actor and director Jonah Hill has emerged as one of modern menswear’s foremost style icons, cultivating a far-out fashionista vibe skewed in a firmly beachy direction: Bode mules, Marni shirts, Gucci tailoring, frazzled hair straight from the set of Point Break. (Original version, obviously.) So when, last autumn, the Wolf of Wall Street star was pictured loading a surfboard into the back of a pickup in a pair of turquoise Walk loafers by the luxury Italian label Loro Piana, it suddenly cast the subtle slip-on in a new light. With its distinctive white sole, and an upper available in suede, leather or — if you’re really pushing the yacht out — cashmere, the Summer Walk, to give the shoe its full title, has…

White sole shuffle

Gaming MARRYING A COW

DUNGEONS & DRAGONS, THE TABLETOP FANTASY roleplay game developed by Gary Gygax and Dave Arneson in the American Midwest in the 1970s, is about to celebrate its 50th anniversary. Its popularity has been a slow burn. There was an initial boom, then a blip during the so-called Satanic Panic of the mid-1980s, when D&D, alongside horror movies and heavy-metal records and everything else beloved of teenage boys, was accused of being a precursor to ritualistic murder. But now it’s bigger than ever. (Spookily, or not, the Satanic Panic was itself a precursor — to QAnon. Coincidence?? Wake up, sheeple!) Sales in D&D paraphernalia — the players’ handbook, starter sets, merch — increased by 30 per cent in 2020, but the game was on the rise already, popularised by Stranger Things, Netflix’s…

Gaming MARRYING A COW

The high life GUMMY MUMMY

IN SEPTEMBER 2021, NEW YORK BECAME THE 15TH American state to legalise the recreational use of marijuana. In October last year, and for reasons that were in no way related, unless maybe subliminally they were, I went to New York for a few days with my sister. Walking around Manhattan, having not been for a few years, we were struck by the clouds of weed smoke that hung over every corner, the workmen on their lunchbreaks openly blazing doobies (pretty sure that’s still the hip terminology), and the sketchy shops selling edibles — cannabinoids in edible form, usually gummy sweets — that had sprung up on every other street. Well, we thought, when in Rome. There is nothing my friends, who are mostly, like me, mothers in their early 40s, like…

The high life GUMMY MUMMY

LUNCH WITH BARBARA CHARONE IS A BLUR. A two-bottler at The River Cafe. Or was it three? Whatever the final count, this was one of those merry sessions that stretches deep into the afternoon. The idea was to talk about her recent memoir, Access All Areas: A Backstage Pass Through 50 Years of Music and Culture, but we covered a lot of ground besides. Blood pressure. Call centres. Antigua. Lockdown. Chelsea FC. More bloody Chelsea FC. (She’s a fanatic, and sits on the board.) People who are rude to waiters. People we hate. People who are rude to waiters and who we hate. Keith Richards’ shepherd’s pie. Drugs. Rosé. Her love for Rod Stewart. And Elvis Costello. And Keith Richards, obviously. BC, as she is universally known, was one of the…

Romance BURN BEFORE WRITING

AN ACQUAINTANCE ASKED ME RECENTLY IF I EVER worried about getting another boyfriend. Surely, he said, my job would put potential suitors off? Later on, I tried to think of another trade men might say this about, and could only come up with sex work. I am not a sex worker, though I have something in common with escorts and cam girls. I too am engaged in the business of selling myself. I am a writer who writes mostly about her own life. I sometimes pitch ideas about other subjects, but they rarely get picked up. In the past year, I have written nine articles. Seven of these could be classed as memoir. Three were about ex-boyfriends; relationships relayed in less than glowing terms. The men were disguised, though not so…

On the road BURRITOS AGAIN

JAKE AND I HAD DONE A BRO-TRIP ONCE BEFORE, driving from Lusaka, where he lives, down to the Luangwa Valley; but this was going to be very different. Instead of travelling cross-country, Max Max-style, with driving beers and guns, we were going to be following the Lonesome Dove trail, from widescreen Texas all the way up the plains of Montana. Jake has been obsessed with Larry McMurtry’s Western novel — in which several Texan rangers drive a cattle herd north in the twilight years of the Old West — since it was first published in 1985, and for some years it had been his intention to drive the trail. As Jake is a former ranger and a bit of a cowboy himself, he originally wanted to do it all on horseback.…

On the road BURRITOS AGAIN

NIRVANA IS LOCATED INSIDE A SMALL UNIT on an industrial estate near Leyton, east London. It’s squeezed between a scrap-metal yard, a Romanian food distributor, an outpost for a Pentecostal church and a Kingsmill bread factory. Nearby, lorries beep and extractor pipes send fragrant plumes of smoke into a pale sky. A pair of beige, new-build apartment blocks in the distance offer the only indications of the area’s ongoing gentrification. Co-founded in 2016 by Becky Taylor-Kean, a 32-year-old Londoner (her two co-founders have since moved away from the business), Nirvana is — for now — the UK’s only dedicated alcohol-free brewery. As well as having its own tap room, Nirvana sells its Dark & Rich Stout, Bavarian Helles Lager and various pale ales and limited-edition runs in pubs, restaurants and online…

BECOMING IDRIS ELBA

THE first thing that strikes you, on being introduced to Idris Elba, is the scale of him. He’s enormous. He’s monumental. He’s widescreen. He’s epic. In 2017, Elba made a movie with Kate Winslet called The Mountain Between Us. He didn’t play the mountain, but I’d like to know why not; a fortune could have been saved on locations. Last year, Elba made a thriller called Beast, in which he punches a lion in the face. This seemed somewhat implausible to me until I encountered Elba in the flesh. Now I marvel at the lion’s ability to absorb the blow. Poor kitty. Perhaps you’re thinking that you don’t have to meet Elba in person to appreciate his powerful physical effect. It has been clear for 20 years now, since he first…

BECOMING IDRIS ELBA

“HAVE WE GOT A SERIOUS PLAYER HERE?” asks Andrew Castle, the 59-year-old former No. 1 British tennis player and now the BBC’s voice of Wimbledon, looking me up and down. His gaze goes down my Richie Tenenbaum polo shirt and lands on my Veja trainers, which have solid eco credentials and non-marking soles but unmistakable weekend-dad energy, and he winces. “Hmm, I guess not.” We are at the National Tennis Centre in Roehampton, west London. But we are not here to play tennis. Instead, we are limbering up beside a padel court, which is 20 metres long and 10 metres wide, or roughly three-quarters the size of a tennis court. It is enclosed at the back with glass and on the sides with glass and mesh. Padel, which was devised in…

MATT FORMSTON HAS ONE MEMORY FROM WHEN he could still see. He’s not completely sure if it’s real, as he must have been very young, maybe three or four. In that one memory, it is Christmas Eve. Formston and his family are at the house of some friends who live on the same street in Narrabeen, a coastal suburb of Sydney, Australia. The dads are messing around, and one of them points to the sky as a shooting star streaks across it and says, “Look, that’s Santa!” The reason Formston thinks it could be a real memory is that the image in his mind is sharp: all the stars are so clear, and then there’s that tiny pinpoint of light moving across the expanse of sky. Maybe a shooting star.…

NOTES OF A BAPTISED PENGUIN

IN A ONCE-FAMOUS PASSAGE BY A ONCE-FAMOUS writer, the 19th-century French symbolist Anatole France imagined a group of penguins in the South Pole being baptised by a nearsighted saint. When the angels in heaven recognised the birds’ baptism, France writes, “it caused neither joy nor sorrow, but extreme surprise”. I am feeling very much a baptised penguin myself in the year or so since I did an extended cameo, as myself, playing face to face, or chair to chair, with Cate Blanchett in Todd Field’s much-praised — and argued-over — movie Tár. I have been briefly welcomed into what is, in our culture, the heaven of celebrity — though understood to be there, like the penguins, on completely false pretences, having arrived through a slightly grotesque misunderstanding. Nonetheless, I am…

NOTES OF A BAPTISED PENGUIN

I ONCE WENT TO THE ARCTIC, TO A CONFERENCE IN SUPPORT of World Peace. At the time I was studying at Oslo University. The conference was in a beautiful wooden building that resembled a Viking longboat. It was full of very important people, and then a lot of observers, also pretty important, and then unimportant people like me who weren’t really meant to be there at all. My tutor had given me his ticket because he had a prior engagement. He was a very extraordinary person, a professor of Ancient Greek who came originally from Iceland. He occasionally invited students for parties at his house, where he served an Icelandic spirit called Black Death. If you have a low tolerance for alcohol, I wouldn’t recommend this drink. But that’s another…

For those who haven’t yet had the pleasure, padel is a fast-growing racquet sport combining elements of tennis, squash and ping-pong. Then there’s pickleball, padel’s competition, another fast-growing racquet sport, combining elements of tennis, badminton and ping-pong. Pickle is most popular in the USA, padel everywhere else. Both, potentially, pose an existential threat to tennis — and squash, and the rest of them, as Tim Lewis reports in this issue. How best to tell this story visually? We could have gone for a photo of a tennis star playing padel (Andy Murray’s a fan) or a picture of one of pickleball’s celebrity pitchmen (George Clooney). But how about something a bit more striking, reflecting the high-stakes grudge match developing between padel, pickle and the old guard of lawn tennis? To…

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