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The Big Black Book, in case you picked this up only because the racks in the business lounge are out of complimentary copies of Bloomberg Businessweek, dammit, is a magazine about luxury for men. Every six months, we aim to supply the best in men’s fashion and accessories, and associated products — cars, watches, technology, interiors — as well as some sharply tailored writing on art, design and lifestyle. Plus maybe pets or whatever to keep it just that little bit, you know... weird. As a result of this relatively narrow focus, when we’re not at home in England, where men’s tailoring was invented and perfected, we tend to spend quite a bit of time in Italy, that other crucible of traditional men’s style. Also France, home to so many…

THE ALFRED DUNHILL TOTE BAG CARRIED BY CHRIS MORTON FOUNDER AND CEO, LYST Manufacturer of British luxury menswear and leather goods since 1893, Dunhill began life as a motoring accessories brand, and now offers a wide selection of impeccably made suiting, accessories and luggage. It remains a renowned leather specialist and its roomy Duke Large Zip Tote is constructed from calfskin that is both vegetable- and chrome-tanned, making it supple, robust and guaranteed to age beautifully. To accommodate the modern gentleman’s travel requirements, it features zip closure, detachable buckled strap and padlock. Internal stowage includes hanging pockets and a zipped hanging pocket. “Duke is inspired by a traditional kit bag from the Dunhill archive,” says creative director John Ray. “It is the very definition of British style.” £3,900, dunhill.com THE…

The very best in watches, hotels, motoring, accessories and wine Limited Editions No. 01 Given the name of Cartier’s new watch collection, the Drive de Cartier, you could be forgiven for thinking it has something to do with cars. At least one respected watch blog has already revealed how the guilloché on the Drive de Cartier’s dial “is inspired by old radiator grilles”, noting that the crown took its design cues from “the bolts used to hold a car together”. The result, it suggested, gave a “sporty, elegant” feel — something beautiful, refined but above all masculine. “No, no, no,” says Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s image, style and heritage director. “The inspiration is not at all the car industry. The ‘drive’ reference is to ‘drive’ in the meaning that you monitor…

Hound Lodge has upped the ante on weekends in the country. Located on the Goodwood Estate, this 19th-century sporting lodge was built mainly for the dogs participating in the then Duke of Richmond’s hunting events, as well as their handlers. But don’t let that fool you — the Duke thought far more of his hounds than he did humans, so this is not your average kennel. Indeed, after painstaking refurbishment, it is now a sumptuous, 10-bedroom country retreat. What sets this place apart isn’t the 24-hour butler service or the lavishly stocked humidor, or even the luxury wool from the neighbouring South Downs’ flocks that make the plump beds so comfortable. No, sir, it’s the extensive range of activities at your disposal on the 12,000-acre estate. Think of Goodwood and…

Beer goggles may suit the common herd, but for the sophisticated gentleman, 2016 is all about whisky sunglasses. In a unique collaboration with Scotland’s much-admired single malt Glenmorangie, the handcrafted eyewear company Finlay & Co is producing limitededition, wooden-framed sunglasses made from the ex-bourbon barrels that give Glenmorangie Original its inimitable flavour. “We wanted to support an up-and-coming British company that thinks about wood the way we do,” explains Glenmorangie’s head of distilling and whisky creation Dr Bill Lumsden, “plus, Finlay & Co has Scottish roots, too.” Styled with Finlay & Co’s classic Fifties look, personally engraved and limited to 1,843 pairs — to match the year the Glenmorangie distillery was founded near Tain in the Highlands — each is hand-finished to display its own individual character based on the…

Cliché suggests that SUVs were once the preserve of country folk, horse owners and yummy mummies who wanted an elevated view of the road and space for all their kiddy baggage. Then along came the premium brigade of automotive brands, which invented hitherto unimagined realms of luxury for the practical Sports Utility Vehicle, turning it into a 4WD supercar in many cases, with a price tag to match. While we wait for offerings from Maserati and Rolls-Royce to come to fruition, this spring we are presented with the most luxurious, fastest and powerful SUV to date: the Bentley Bentayga. Purist fans of the British marque wept into their silk scarves when Bentley announced this departure from grand tourers and performance sports cars last year. Talk to the designers and engineers…

Now that we’ve all stopped scoffing at the idea of English wine, particularly the fizzy stuff, one name that should be at the top of your shopping list is Gusbourne Estate. Winner of an unprecedented seven gold medals in 2015, Gusbourne closed the year by claiming the title of English Wine Producer of the Year at the International Wine and Spirit Competition. It is stocked in the most prestigious restaurants (The Fat Duck, Le Gavroche and Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons were early supporters), and has just been taken on by Berry Bros & Rudd, the oldest wine merchants in the country, as its first and only houselabel English sparkler. This spring, the newly spruced-up estate is inviting the public to taste its wines for themselves. Spread over 140 hectares, mostly…

America is the greatest country on Earth. If you don’t believe it, just ask an American. We love it so much that about 96 per cent of us never go anywhere else. Hey, we have the Grand Canyon, the Hollywood Walk of Fame, Disneyworld, Mall of America, the Freedom Tower and Ground Zero. What is there to find in Europe? Old things. In Africa? Tropical diseases. In Asia? Teeming masses and sweatshops. Why would anyone want to go anywhere else if you’ve been to America? Well, some might want to go to Iraq, to Afghanistan and other troubled nations that require our tutelage and competence — in other words, Americans might want to kill ’em over there so we don’t have to kill ’em here. But the Land of the…

WHAT I’VE LEARNED PETER MARINO Architect, 66

I don’t have any suits. Two years ago, my daughter tried to get me to wear one for Halloween. She said, “We’re going to go and buy you a shirt and tie, the whole thing, and put a wig on and nobody will recognise you.” I couldn’t do it. It’s very uncomfortable for me. I physically need help to put a jacket on. Don’t marry for good sex. Marry for good company. I have a firm of 180 people and I design many private homes, hotels, office buildings and condominiums. I also design retail establishments for a lot of the major fashion brands. I’m not 1,000 per cent sure that I’m most known for retail but I’ve had a good long run out of it. I kind of rode a…

WHAT I’VE LEARNED PETER MARINO Architect, 66

NO END NO BEGINNING

S now-capped mountain peaks. Dense forests. Mighty rivers. Swamps. Deserts. Lakes. Beaches. All that travel brochure bullshit. Breathe in the cool, clean air. Fill your lungs. Be purified. Feel the sun on your back, the wind in your hair, the sand between your toes, the salty ocean spray on your skin. Spread your arms wide, throw them around America. Follow your dream. Make yourself anew. Be someone else, someone better. Take a selfie. Use the Grand Canyon as your backdrop. Put a filter on it, stick it on Instagram. Count the likes. Diners, gas stations, truck stops, drugstores, billboards, strip malls. Ford, Chevrolet, Dodge. Chevron, 76, Shell. McDonald’s, Starbucks, Subway. And on and on and on into the crushed pink sunset, soft rock on the stereo, aviators for your eyes,…

NO END NO BEGINNING

The Traditionalist Dress code: Blazers, button-down Oxford shirts, rumpled khaki chinos First known sighting: New Haven, Connecticut, 1902 Recent sighting: That pop-up craft ale bar Hall of famers: Miles Davis, John Updike In his driveway: 1983 Mercedes Benz S-series In his closet: Blue checked / dogtooth wool jacket, £550; pale blue cotton shirt, £95; blue / white striped knitted silk tie, £85; navy silk pocket square, £35; light grey cotton trousers, £125, all by Hackett. Pale blue cotton socks, £12, by London Sock Company. Black leather loafers, £360, by Crockett & Jones The Sportsman Dress code: Technical gear and T-shirts Bragging rights: A sub-three-hour marathon Cause for stress: Shin splints Pickup line: “Didn’t we meet at the Ironman last year?” On his playlist: Avicii, Calvin Harris On his bookshelf: The…

FRAGRANCES & CLUB TIES

Essentials No. 01 FRAGRANCES 01 Owari Formula Two, by Odin New York — £125 02 Blu Mediterraneo Cedro di Taormina, by Acqua di Parma — £87 03 Neroli 36, by Le Labo — £105 04 Neroli Portofino Forte, by Tom Ford — £195 05 Bois d’Encens, by Armani/Privé — £155 06 Patchouli Impérial, by Christian Dior — £165 07 Equipage Géranium, by Hermès — £80 08 Chypre 21, by Heeley — £125 09 Super Cedar, by Byredo — £90 10 Acqua di Bergamotto, by Ermenegildo Zegna — £55 Essentials No. 02 CLUB TIES 01 Green and ecru block-striped silk, by Drake’s — £125 02 Navy and pink striped with white polka-dot silk, by Richard James — £85 03 Turquoise and red striped silk, by Hermès — £125 04 Red and…

FRAGRANCES & CLUB TIES

When Jeff Koons was in his second year of art school in 1973, his mother read in a magazine that one of his favourite artists, Salvador Dalí, was living at the St Regis Hotel in New York. “So I called the hotel and asked to speak to Salvador Dalí, and they put me through,” says Koons. “I told him that I was a fan and would really enjoy the opportunity to meet him, and he told me, ‘OK, come to New York this Saturday and I’ll meet you in the lobby at 12 o’clock.’ “So I went to the hotel and at exactly 12 o’clock he showed up in the lobby wearing this buffalo fur cape and a diamond tie clip, carrying a silver cane,” Koons continues. “Dalí invited me…

RESORTS TO REMEMBER

A Ritz-Carlton hotel aspires to create a very different type of luxury for its guests, it understands that a holiday isn’t just about well-appointed facilities, meals and service but an experience to be remembered. That’s why all 91 Ritz-Carlton hotels worldwide are so wildly different, with each reflecting its surroundings. Hotel Arts in Barcelona, for example, is built tall to peer across the port; in Arizona, The Ritz-Carlton, Dove Mountain complex has a golf course designed by Jack Nicklaus specifically to take advantage of the challenging terrain; while the new Kyoto hotel boasts a signature scent of cherry blossoms and lychee to entice visitors into its lobby. But what every resort does have in common is the ethos of attention to detail. The 40,000 Ladies and Gentlemen of The Ritz-Carlton…

RESORTS TO REMEMBER

DRIVING AMBITION

Once a decade or so, a new product comes to market that’s so profoundly beyond its time it redefines its category. Remember the first time you saw the iPhone, for example, and the feeling of perfect rightness. Oh. Huh. This is how mobile phones are from now on. OK. Driving one of Franz von Holzhausen’s cars is like that first unboxing. The senior design executive at Tesla Motors makes vehicles that are hard to comprehend even while you’re in one. For starters, the Model S P90D — a battery-driven electric vehicle — does 0–60mph in just 2.8secs. Plus, given a good enough set of lines in the road, the car will steer itself. And that’s only the beginning. Pull on to a motorway, accelerate past the speed limit, pull the…

DRIVING AMBITION

AN ENGLISHMAN IN NEW YORK

I saw a hipster in Wichita, Kansas, recently. Straight up. Bushy topiarised beard, inked forearms peeping from rolled-back plaid shirtsleeves, 14oz denim jeans with turn-ups you could store lumberjack self-help books in, riding his fixie, calm-as-you-like, down Main Street — all the hallmarks of fashionable urban Americana rolled into one two-wheeled, self-powered package, nearly 1,300 miles from Williamsburg, NY, his spiritual home. What was he doing there? Where did he work? Who were his people? Perhaps he was just passing through. In 1982, while I was researching my A-level geography project on Rateable Land Values, I saw three New Romantics with A-Flock-Of-Seagulls hair, chain-smoking Silk Cuts at the traffic lights in the centre of Wareham, Dorset. Somehow, even back then, that was far less of a shock. Main Street was…

AN ENGLISHMAN IN NEW YORK

Sync this pilot’s watch to a smartphone and record data such as flight duration and landing speed or, for those who wish to remain on their runways, lap times. BREITLING Exospace B55 Connected Chronograph, 46mm black titanium case, blue rubber strap, £6,650 The nautical features of this new Seamaster include a helium escape valve, activated during decompression to facilitate use by professional divers. OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M Co-axial Chronometer, 41mm stainless steel case, stainless steel bracelet, £2,770 In a sporting gesture to match its striking steel and titanium design, Tag’s new Carrera with Swiss-made Tourbillon clocks in at a hugely competitive price point considering the engineering. TAG HEUER Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon, 45mm black titanium case, black rubber strap, £12,100 Guaranteed to a depth of 500m, the Pelagos’s luminous…

A SENSE OF LIVING

Sitting with Ralph Lauren in his office, I ask if he can think of the most memorable, the most defining, moment of his life. “I’ve had so many. But I can tell you two.” Lauren’s voice is a gravelly burr, almost lulling, and he is so softly spoken that you find yourself leaning forward to catch his every word. “I remember when I did my first fashion show, here in New York in 1971, and I walked down the runway and people were standing, and I thought, ‘Oh my God, this is amazing. You came from nowhere and you do this show and they’re all standing and applauding you.’ And then, when I was walking back up the runway, I suddenly thought, ‘My God, what am I going to do…

A SENSE OF LIVING

PAPERBACKS & SUEDE BOOTS

Essentials No. 03 PAPERBACKS 01 The Line of Beauty by Alan Hollinghurst (Picador) — £10 02 Light Years by James Salter (Penguin) — £10 03 True History of the Kelly Gang by Peter Carey (Faber and Faber) — £9 04 The Sportswriter by Richard Ford (Bloomsbury) — £9 05 Netherland by Joseph O’Neill (Fourth Estate) — £9 06 Couples by John Updike (Penguin) — £10 07 The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao by Junot Díaz (Riverhead) — £9 08 Saturday by Ian McEwan (Vintage) — £9 09 Pastoralia by George Saunders (Bloomsbury) — £9 10 Rites of Passage by William Golding (Faber and Faber) — £9 Essentials No. 04 SUEDE BOOTS 01 Dark grey pony suede, by Cheaney — £320 02 Yellow suede, by Camper — £150 03 Navy…

PAPERBACKS & SUEDE BOOTS

AMERICAN STANDARDS

“I want everyone to say, ‘EMOTIONS DRIVE BEHAVIOURS!’” With these words Steve Gutzler, keynote speaker at The Ritz-Carlton Leadership Center’s “Your Journey to Service Excellence” symposium in a hotel just outside Washington, DC, throws out his arms to the 150 attendees. The attendees, who are mostly white, middle-aged, provincial Americans dressed as if for an important meeting with a client, say the words. Gutzler, a slim, grey-haired man in his fifties wearing a managerial suit and tie, nods vigorously. “But there is a SCIENCE behind our emotions,” he says, modulating his voice like a preacher. “In the development of the human brain there is the brain stem, which monitors your breathing, your reflexes, your heart rate and body temperature, and then there is the centre of the brain, which is…

AMERICAN STANDARDS

EVERY DETAIL REGISTERED by PHILIP HOARE The year 1976 was a breakpoint in time, between the old world and the new. Out of the air fell a man in a duffel coat, stumbling down a scree in New Mexico. Pale-faced, flame-haired, an angel translated to Seventies America; an ambassador from a dry planet, come to warn us of the consequences of our behaviour. As a suburban schoolboy growing up in Southampton, I felt I was falling through the cracks between worlds. Into that space stepped the sombre shape of Thomas Jerome Newton: ostensibly respectable, bespectacled, in an anodyne black suit. But beneath that shell lay another creature, bursting to get out like a butterfly from a chrysalis. The person who played him (or was it the other way around?) was…

The Garland Shirt Company is housed in an unremarkable brick building 90 minutes drive from Raleigh-Durham International Airport in North Carolina. It requires a journey through small-town Southeastern USA, across endless flat expanses dedicated to farming. It is in Garland, a town with a population of approximately 600, that one of menswear’s most iconic items is produced; the Brooks Brothers button-down Oxford shirt. That the historic uniform of America’s East Coast aristocracy — of wealthy Princeton freshmen, yachting Yalies and F Scott Fitzgerald — is manufactured here, in a North Carolina town too small to require red traffic lights, is incongruous. But the fact that Brooks Brothers operates factories in America at all is something the 200-year-old company is proud of. “We’ve got close to 1,000 people in the USA…

WHAT I’VE LEARNED VINT CERF Internet pioneer, 72

The name Vint is not that common. It’s short for Vinton. My father’s name was Vinton, too. He was Big Vint and I was Little Vint. I think people recognise that [electrical engineer] Bob Kahn and I are the co-inventors of the basic internet design, the protocols that make it work and the architecture that goes with it. Everything else after that has been elaboration on those concepts. I’m likely to fail at anything that involves physical dexterity. I would not put me on the dancefloor as a marvellous example of agility. I’ve always had this secret aspiration — a fantasy, really — to play Henry Higgins in My Fair Lady. The trouble is that I don’t have the ability to produce a convincing British accent, which I think is…

WHAT I’VE LEARNED VINT CERF Internet pioneer, 72

In 2000, I visited the centre of the sneaker universe: Nike World Headquarters in Beaverton, Oregon. The company’s “swoosh” had dominated the Olympics: Marion Jones glided to victory in Nike Zoom Celars and Maurice Greene waved his stars ’n’ stripes Nike Zoom Superflys in front of the world’s cameras after his 100m victory. Yet, despite the gold medals and the 24-carat droplets in Michael Johnson’s running spikes, Nike had only just emerged from “the emergency room” and was “partially in post-op, partially in rehab” according to successive annual company reports. Michael Jordan had retired; Nike Air was old news; the waffle sole was ancient history. While it was all very well to be able to claim your new lace fastenings could reduce drag by 11cm over 200m, around 70 per…

LINEN SHIRTS & ICE CREAMS

Essentials No. 05 LINEN SHIRTS 01 Grey and white striped linen shirt, by Brunello Cucinelli — £330 02 Yellow linen button-down shirt, by Brooks Brothers — £125 03 Blue linen chambray shirt, by Tommy Hilfiger Tailored — £90 04 Pink short-sleeved linen shirt, by Z Zegna — £140 05 White linen business shirt, by Alfred Dunhill — £190 06 Blue linen shirt, by Polo Ralph Lauren — £109 07 Blue paisley linen shirt, by Duchamp — £130 08 Tan linen grandad shirt, by Private White VC — £175 09 Dark blue linen shirt, by Giorgio Armani — £270 10 Light green classic linen shirt, by Vilebrequin — £155 Essentials No. 06 ICE CREAMS 01 Salted caramel, by Scoop — £4 02 Amarena, by Amorino — £4.50 03 Blood orange, by…

LINEN SHIRTS & ICE CREAMS

DOLCE & GABBANA Her: blue sheer tulle dress, £1,950; black silk-mix bra, £115; black silk-mix highwaisted knickers with zip detail, £435, all by Dolce & Gabbana. Black leather-suede ankle boots, £680, by Giuseppe Zanotti Him: black floral embroidered cotton-mix bomber jacket, £2,600; black / olive floral-print silk trousers, £485; black leather sandals, £495, all by Dolce & Gabbana OLIVER SPENCER Him: red / black checked cotton bomber jacket, £330; red / white striped cotton T-shirt, £70; burgundy silk trousers, £135, all by Oliver Spencer. Black leather loafers, £455, by Gucci Her: black neoprene swimsuit, £305, by Lisa Marie Fernandez. Pink patent leather slippers, £390, by Gianvito Rossi VICTORINOX Khaki map print cotton T-shirt, £75; khaki cotton trousers, £95, both by Victorinox ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA COUTURE Beige / pink checked cotton double-breasted…

SPORTS HEADPHONES & TRAVEL CASES

Essentials No. 07 SPORTS HEADPHONES 01 S500i, by RHA — £40 02 Beoplay H3 ANC, by Bang & Olufsen — £200 03 Trekz Titanium Bluetooth, by AfterShokz — £110 04 Ti100WT Wireless Aeroflex, by Trainer by Gibson — £150 05 iSport Wireless SuperSlim, by Monster — £110 06 ATH-SPORT3, by Audio-Technica — £45 07 C5 Series 2, by Bowers & Wilkins — £150 08 ME05, by Master & Dynamic — £159 09 SoundTrue Ultra, by Bose — £130 10 XBA-H3, by Sony — £250 Essentials No. 08 TRAVEL CASES 01 Brown crocodile leather Candy Case, by Aspinal of London — £895 02 Grey/caramel 21” trolley suitcase, by Globe-Trotter — £1,005 03 Aluminium Cabin Multiwheel carry-on, by Rimowa — £620 04 Damier Graphite canvas case, by Louis Vuitton — £2,140 05…

SPORTS HEADPHONES & TRAVEL CASES

WHAT I’VE LEARNED JASON SCHWARTZMAN Actor, 35

If you watch a lot of old Italian films you think of Italy in a certain way. You’re really looking forward to going there, then you arrive and there’s a Subway sandwich place on the corner. That wasn’t in the Fellini movie. My favourite brand of gin is Junípero. I like tequila, too. It’s a carousel of tequila, vodka and gin for me. That’s probably weatherbased. I don’t know why, because I have them all on the rocks, but some days it feels too cold to have a gin. I don’t like mixed drinks. You can have a few of them, try and stand up and find that you’re very much behind schedule. I have wasted money but not in a grand way. I mean, I never bought the wrong…

WHAT I’VE LEARNED JASON SCHWARTZMAN Actor, 35

MINIMAL EFFECTS

Photographer’s assistants: Richard Round-Turner, Lewis Bench Fashion assistant: Adelaide Crippa Grooming: Ami Streets at LMC Worldwide Model: Geraint Morgan at Named Models See Stockists page for details…

MINIMAL EFFECTS

“It was raining like hell the night before,” Eliot Noyes recalled, “and we said, ‘If it isn’t a good day tomorrow, the hell with New Canaan.’” But the rain passed, and the next day the sun shone, and Noyes and his wife Molly kept the estate agent appointment they’d arranged in the place they’d end up calling home for the rest of their lives. It was 1946. America was just back from war, and New Canaan was still a sleepy backwater folded into wooded Connecticut hills. It might have felt remote, but the town was less than an hour’s rail commute from Manhattan. For young architects like Noyes, it had another, more significant advantage: Connecticut’s licensing regulations allowed you to practise without undergoing New York’s three-year mandatory apprenticeship. Zoning codes…

BELTS & T-SHIRTS

Essentials No. 09 BELTS 01 Purple grained leather, by Ermenegildo Zegna Couture — £245 02 Brown leather, by Bally — £175 03 Navy Taiga calf leather, by Louis Vuitton — £325 04 Brown leather and PU reversible, by Ben Sherman — £30 05 Light brown woven suede, by Tod’s — £170 06 Black 32mm Box and Togo calfskin, by Hermès — £310 07 Navy and malt calfskin, by Dior Homme — £420 08 Grey wool and brown leather mélange elastic, by Gant — £80 09 Dark brown leather, by Penfield — £45 10 Smoke grey cotton, by Prada — £105 Essentials No. 10 T-SHIRTS 01 Green and white striped cotton, by Sunspel — £60 02 Red cotton, by Corneliani — £120 03 Navy cotton, by Boss — £35 04 Multicoloured…

BELTS & T-SHIRTS

A Acqua di Parma at John Lewis johnlewis.com Alfred Dunhill +44 20 7853 4440 dunhill.com Amorino amorino.com Anderson & Sheppard +44 20 7734 1420 anderson-sheppard.co.uk Armani/Privé armanibeauty.co.uk Aspinal of London aspinaloflondon.com Audemars Piguet +44 20 7659 7300 audemarspiguet.com B Bally +44 20 7499 0057 bally.co.uk Bell & Ross +44 20 7629 1558 bellross.com Ben Sherman +44 20 7812 5300 bensherman.com Berluti +44 20 7437 1740 berluti.com Boss +44 20 7734 7919 hugoboss.com Bottega Veneta +44 20 7838 9394 bottegaveneta.com Breitling +44 20 7637 5167 breitling.com Brioni +44 20 7491 2101 brioni.co.uk Brooks Brothers +44 20 3238 0030 brooksbrothers.com Brunello Cucinelli +44 20 7287 4347 brunellocucinelli.com Byredo byredo.com C Camper +44 20 7629 2722 camper.com Cheaney +44 1536 760 383 cheaney.co.uk Chopard +44 20 7409 3140 chopard.co.uk Christian Dior dior.com Church’s +44 20 7734 2438 church-footwear.com…

No. 07 Nudie Cohn’s Rodeo Tailors was on Lankershim Boulevard in North Hollywood. I went there in 1969 when Cohn was already well established in the entertainment industry. He started out doing burlesque outfits for showgirls in New York and moved out to California in the mid-Forties. A lot of cowboy movie stars — Roy Rogers, John Wayne — wore his stuff. I’d been sent to do pictures for a Rolling Stone story on Bakersfield country music — Merle Haggard, Buck Owens, The Flying Burrito Brothers. One or two of the guys were wearing Nudie suits, because they wore ’em on stage. The stuff he did was bespoke. But it was his embroidery that really made it — rhinestones, hand-tooling, embellishments. He did Gram Parsons’ suit with the naked girls…

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