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29 Articles

LAURIE BARTLEY After studying photography at Norfolk College of Arts & Technology, Laurie’s big break came assisting Rankin at Dazed for six years, working his way from intern to producer. Now known for his cinematic fashion images, he photographs Ordinary People on p116. PROUDEST CAREER MOMENT? ‘My work appearing alongside Juergen Teller and Peter Lindbergh’s in a New York exhibition.’ ADVICE TO YOUR YOUNGER SELF? ‘Learn to realise when the ego is present. Its demise is in the realisation.’ MEGAN HUNTER The experience of becoming a mother aged 25 inspired writer and award-winning poet Megan to pursue her dream of becoming an author. She writes about the loneliness of young motherhood on p25. WHEN DO YOU WRITE BEST? ‘In a shed in my garden as soon as I wake. I find it helpful…

75 years of THE ELLE WOMAN

In November 1945, France was emerging from the Second World War and a woman named Hélène Gordon-Lazareff realised her dream of launching a full-colour weekly women’s magazine: ELLE. Sure, there were other style magazines on the market and news publications that captured the quicksilver of culture. But there was nothing combining the two. Nor anything specifically for women. So, in an apartment block on the Avenue Kléber in autumn 1945, ELLE was born: a 2OO-page magazine bound by glue and thread. But also a philosophical place where women, whatever their age, could feel at home. That magazine celebrates its 75th birthday this year, making her a grand old dame by anyone’s standards. By the time you reach 75, you’ve seen – and learnt – a thing or two. The original French…

75 years of THE ELLE WOMAN

Exquisite SUFFERING

w hen I was 28, I lived in a mouldy Cambridgeshire flat with my husband, three-year-old son and tiny daughter. Breastfeeding the baby through her first months, I streamed a lot of Girls, her damp head resting heavily on my shoulder. On the screen, other women in their twenties deliberated over boyfriends and internships, their lives glossed with alien qualities: freedom, carelessness, a sense of infinite time. But I also saw similarities between us: a sharpness of energy, an untargeted, expansive sense of ambition. I couldn’t stop watching them, as they stumbled through their fictional lives, making mistakes no longer available to me. I had always rejected the ‘pram in the hallway’ argument against creative aspirations and parenting but, with the bulk of a double buggy looming in the garage (no…

Exquisite SUFFERING

Name to know... AISLING FRANCIOSI

Aisling Franciosi didn’t start out as a rebel. ‘I never put a toe out of line. I didn’t do the rebellious thing as a teenager – and that became my identity,’ the 29-year-old states, matter-of-factly. Such perfectionism led her to gain a coveted place at Trinity College Dublin to study French and Spanish. So, it was somewhat out of character when she decided to quit university to star as Katie Benedetto alongside Jamie Dornan in BBC crime drama The Fall. ‘Acting has given me the freedom to do and say whatever the hell I want without repercussions,’ she says. Franciosi is calling from her hotel room in Vancouver, Canada, where she’s resumed shooting an at-present unnamed film with Sandra Bullock – ‘She’s lovely, supportive and intelligent’ – after the project was…

Name to know... AISLING FRANCIOSI

Trending... YOU’VE GOT TO LAUGH

The past year has been no laughing matter. So start the new one in side-splitting style with this month’s TV, film and books. On the small screen, the makers of People Just Do Nothing produce Sky’s paramedic comedy Bloods (out in January) and introduce your new favourite double act, Ab Fab’s Jane Horrocks and Famalam rising star Samson Kayo. Were you a big fan of Oscar-winning film The Favourite? Its writer, Tony McNamara, brings The Great to Channel 4 (out in January). Starring Elle Fanning and Nicholas Hoult, satire reigns as Russia’s Catherine The Great vows to kill her husband and beat the church. In film, Pose’s Ryan Murphy brings a hysterical Broadway musical to Netflix in The Prom (out 11 December), complete with original Tony Award-winning soundtrack. Meryl Streep and Nicole Kidman…

Trending... YOU’VE GOT TO LAUGH

Pssst... FUNNIEST WOMEN ON THE WAVES

From podcasts such as Nobody Panic, where comedians Stevie Martin and Tessa Coates guide you through life, to a candid look at the sex lives of South Asian women in Brown Girls Do It Too, these will keep you belly laughing on the move. Brown Girls Do It Too is available on BBC Sounds. Photography: SamsonKayo and Sky, Courtesy of Hulu, Melinda Sue Gordon for Netflix, BBC Pictures, Marco Vittur.BIRTHDAY GIRLS’ HOUSE PARTY…

Pssst... FUNNIEST WOMEN ON THE WAVES

The look... INTRODUCING LEIS-URY

1. LIVE THE PROCESS This New York brand was founded by fashion PR Robyn Berkley. Made ethically in the US, the range includes heat-reduction, moisture-wicking and wind-repellent styles. Buy the catwalk-worthy cardis to pair with everything from midi-dresses to leggings, stocked at Net-a-Porter. 2. PRISM2 PRISM founder Anna Laub, who made her name with graphic eyewear, has turned her hand to 36O-staples – meaning easy-to-wear styles that function as underwear, shapewear and activewear – with new sister-line PRISM2 . Invest in the zesty bodysuits as seen on Paloma Elsesser, easily dressed up with jeans. 3. PH5 Naomi Osaka and Serena Williams reimagined tennis-court style, swapping classic whites for colour. PH5 caters to that crowd, with separates that work on and off court. Founded by Wei Lin and Mijia Zhang, the brand offers revved-up, retro-inspired sports…

The look... INTRODUCING LEIS-URY

Word up...YOUR 2O21 READING LIST

THE RADICAL READ A Room Called Earth by Madeleine Ryan Taking place over 24 hours, a young autistic woman goes to a suburban house party. An ordinary night is made totally new through the eyes of the neurodivergent author in this honest debut. THE FAMILY DRAMA We are All Birds of Uganda by Hafsa Zayyan The winner of Stormzy’s literary label #Merky Books New Writers’ Prize, Zayyan transports us between two continents and several generations as London lawyer Sameer unpicks his family history back to 197Os Uganda. THE BUZZY DEBUT No One is Talking About This by Patricia Lockwood Master of the zeitgeist, Lockwood’s social media posts routinely go viral. This – her first novel – already has praise from Sally Rooney and Jia Tolentino, and is a love letter to the infinite scroll, exploring how to live…

Word up...YOUR 2O21 READING LIST

The hype... BRIDGERTON

”IT MIGHT BE A SEDUCTIVE, LAVISH REGENCY DRAMA, BUT BRIDGERTON’S THEMES REFLECT THE WORLD WE’RE LIVING IN” Based on the popular book series by Julia Quinn, Bridgerton, which follows eight high-society siblings in 1813, is a period drama with a difference. Forget the passive female characters and lack of diversity in the name of ‘historical accuracy’, it’s Gossip Girl meets Jane Austen. Bridgerton features a race-blind cast and strong female leads, thanks largely to producer Shonda Rhimes. Known for smart, sexy dramas such as Grey’s Anatomy and Scandal, this is the first release from her $15O m Netflix mega deal. ‘It’s a unique world,’ says Phoebe Dynevor, who plays Daphne, the eldest Bridgerton daughter. ‘It might be a lavish Regency drama, but the themes reflect the world we live in.’ Hence the…

The hype... BRIDGERTON

On the street...OPERA GLOVES

There’s never been a more appropriate time to wear gloves – and not just because the temperature has dropped. Editors embraced this ‘safety first’ style as Covid took hold, with leather and printed gloves being the accessory at the AW2O fashion weeks. Opera gloves were a hit on the runway, too, seen at Lanvin and Givenchy. The fashion industry – prescient, as always.…

On the street...OPERA GLOVES

Spotlight on...HADES

The Greek god from which Hades takes its name might reside in the underworld, but this knitwear brand is anything but hellish, known for its bright knits and small-scale production. Its factory is a bit easier to get to than the realms of the dead, too, although the tiny Scottish mill is still a three-hour train and two-hour bus ride from the Birmingham homes of the sisters who run the brand. ‘We’ve worked with the same manufacturer from the start,’ says Cassie Holland, 34, who founded Hades in 2O15 with no formal fashion training and just £1,2OO in savings from her job at a creative agency. ‘It’s a four-person team, and we know them all: Sheila, Shirley, Sharon and Finlay.’ Chances are, if you order one of Hades’ knits, it was…

Spotlight on...HADES

The look... FOCAL POINT BREAK UP THE SEASON’S RED ENSEMBLES WITH A CONTRASTING ACCESSORY – THE PERFECT PAIRING FOR MONOTONOUS DRESSING Palette CLEANSER LOOK FOR A BAG IN A SOFT SAGE GREEN TO provide a refreshing CONTRAST TO BRIGHT CHERRY RED On the FLOOR WHEN SHEER FABRICS ARE ALREADY MAKING A STATEMENT, keep footwear PARED BACK IN AN ELEGANT SHADE WHITE hot BALANCE OUT SCARLET SUITING WITH A shock of white, ADDING A COOL TOUCH TO FIERY HUES Mellow YELLOW TRY A PRIMROSE CROSS-BODY BAG FOR A SUBTLE ACCENT – just enough TO TONE DOWN VIBRANT LOOKS FOR EVERYDAY Staying POWER YOU DON’T HAVE TO GIVE UP YOUR sandals in winter – WEAR WITH TIGHTS FOR A COLD-WEATHER UPDATE Make-up: Emma Broom using NARS Cosmetics. Nails: Cherrie Snow using Tom Ford Beauty. Model: Aminat at Wilhelmina.Fashion assistants: Lois Adeoshun and Julia Harvey.…

Business ON TOP

IN the DETAILS WITH A REFINED JUMPER AND A FEW WELL-CHOSEN ACCESSORIES, NOBODY WILL GUESS THAT THE REST OF YOUR OUTFIT IS, WELL, LOUNGEWEAR SMART meets CASUAL BLAZER? CHECK. SHIRT? CHECK. FLUFFY SANDALS? ALSO CHECK. THE BEAUTY OF ZOOM CALLS IS THAT STYLE NO LONGER MEANS COMPROMISING ON COMFORT PHOTOGRAPHY by VICTOR BASTIDASand BENEDIKT FRANKSTYLING by MOLLY HAYLOR Shopping: Clemmie Brown and Julia Harvey. Hair: Declan Sheils at Premier Hair and Make Up.Make-up: Porsche Poon. Model: Barbara Almeida at Wilhelmina. Set design: Joshua Stovell.Fashion assistant: Jack O’Neill. This shoot was produced in accordance with local Covid-19 guidelines.…

Business ON TOP

The END of the MODEL

“FROM GUCCI TO BALENCIAGA AND CHLOÉ, ‘ordinary’ people NOW FREQUENTLY STAR IN CATWALK SPECTACLES and campaigns ” ‘OH, WE’VE JUST BOOKED BURBERRY,’ 27-year-old Sophia Maslin says casually to her 21-year-old sister Miriam, as she reaches for a doughnut during a Monday morning meeting. It seems an average start to the day for the siblings behind Revolt Agency, the ‘new-generation model agency’ they founded in 2O17. Average, except that the pair – along with their colleague, 29-year-old Kit Findlay – are working from home in a small flat in South Kensington. And a ‘fly-on-the-wall’ journalist – me – is watching them at work via a Zoom call. As I join (the screen occasionally obscured by Jasper and Aslan, a Chihuahua and Pomeranian pair toddling around the succulent-filled apartment), the trio discuss the addition…

The END of the MODEL

WHEN the PARTY’S OVER

ONE EVENING IN LATE JULY, WILLOW WAS SCROLLING THROUGH INSTAGRAM when she came across an image that unsettled her. It was of a group of people she recognised – tanned, smiling, their arms linked in the manner of decade-long friendships. In the background she could make out the cerulean seas of Greece; Santorini, to be precise. These were her friends, people she had spent the past year partying with across Europe. Friends who had always progressed through life at a similar rate – they’d all climbed the career ladder together, bought property around the same time and holidayed in the same places. Except now. As Willow* sat in her London flat gazing at the photo, she felt the unfamiliar edges of a new divide. That summer, Willow, 34, had found herself…

WHEN the PARTY’S OVER

THE woman WHO decides WHAT you WATCH

WHEN CÉCILE FROT-COUTAZ WAS EIGHT, her family left their city life in Lyon, France, for the quaint, apple-pie suburbia of Maryland, USA. Her father, a research scientist, had been transferred to the National Institute for Health in Bethesda and had enrolled his daughter at the local American primary school. There was just one problem: Cécile barely spoke a word of English. And so for the next few months, she remained largely silent, instead choosing to observe and absorb everything about this strange new world – its sworn allegiance to the American flag, its obsession with participation sports, its quasi-fetishistic culture of positivity. ‘I spent three months with no idea what was going on,’ she says, eyes widening at the memory. ‘The way you learn a language when you’re that age is…

THE woman WHO decides WHAT you WATCH

A MODERN FAIRY TALE

NOT EVERY MODEL WILL START A CONVERSATION by telling you how much they love First World War poet Wilfred Owen. But not every model is Aweng Ade-Chuol, the Sudanese supermodel who was spotted working at McDonald’s. When we meet, she sinks her sparrow-like, 5ft 9in frame into a low armchair, flanked by her wife of a less than a year – Alexus, known as Lexy – and explains. ‘It’s such a nerd thing to say but he’s always been my favourite poet,’ she says, her dark, almond-shaped eyes brightening above her paper mask. ‘His poetry is just phenomenal to me. It’s all about war and my father was a soldier… Maybe that’s why I love him so much,’ she says, speaking with an accent that blends cutesy Australian lilt with a…

A MODERN FAIRY TALE

HAIR: ChristophHasenbein at Wise & Talentedusing Oribe. MAKE-UP: EnyWhitehead at Calliste. MODELS:Amandine Pouilly at Storm ModelManagement and Kathia Nseke atModels 1. SET DESIGN: HervéSauvage. PRODUCTION:Alissandre Jacquier. FASHIONEDITOR: Charlotte Deffe. FASHIONASSISTANT: Héloïse Boyon. Thisshoot was produced in accordancewith local Covid-19 guidelines…

Ordinary PEOPLE

HAIR: GarethBrommel at Artlist. MAKE-UP:Lisa Houghton. MODEL:Adrienne Jüliger at Viva.PRODUCTION: KO Collective.FASHION ASSISTANTS: ArchieGrant and Julia Harvey. Thisshoot was produced in accordancewith local Covid-19 guidelines…

Ordinary PEOPLE

AN EXTRAORDINARY year

EMMA BRESCHI Model and UN Women ambassador ‘I’ve been learning to drive this year and have failed my theory test three times, so the Highway Code has been a consistent theme throughout my thought process. Prior to 2O2O, I was all go, go, go and moving at a million miles an hour – until this year arrived like a massive cliff. I had no choice but to hit the brakes and try not to fall off the edge. When you’ve been driving fast for so long, you almost forget how to stop; ultimately, speeding makes you a terrible, dangerous driver. So I had to remember how to slow down and change gear. Despite perfecting my driving analogies, I can’t legally drive yet because my test has been cancelled due to Covid, so…

AN EXTRAORDINARY year

Look book RETURN TO SPLENDOUR

THE INSPIRATION Josephine Baker Civil rights activist Baker was the first Black woman to play the lead in a major motion picture. Never seen without a full set of lashes, you can mimic her look with a triple coat of Marc Jacobs Beauty Velvet Noir Mascara (Holiday ion) £25 (below). The ENDS Our scalps should be as radiant as our skin, and nothing ruins a big, bouncy blow dry like unwanted flakiness. To treat the problem, gently massage Kevin Murphy Scalp.Spa Scrub, £30 (above), into roots to eradicate any dryness and unclog pores for a refreshed, hydrated head of hair. The FRAGRANCE If we could capture the excitement of just-popped champagne in a scent, it would smell something like Valentino Voce Viva, £76 for 50ml EDP (above). With uplifting notes of spicy ginger, zesty mandarin and…

Look book RETURN TO SPLENDOUR

What I use...TONERS

Did anyone really have a clue what all that toning was about back in the Nineties? Short of removing the last residue of foundation my cleanser had failed to shift, I was never really sure. Plus, given that toners of the Nineties were mostly made from alcohol, the idea of subjecting my then juicy skin to ‘water’ that would (ironically) leach out my own supplies always seemed a little counterintuitive to me. Those formulas were pointless at best, harsh and stripping at worst. But 3O years can do a lot to a product. Today, toners – or ‘essences’, ‘lotions’ or ‘solutions’ – are no longer the third wheel in a good skincare regime. Far from it: they are the resurfacing, collagen-boosting, acne-reducing, glow-getting and treatment-boosting wonders of our time. The most basic…

What I use...TONERS

THE WORLD’S MOST EFFECTIVE BEAUTY PRODUCTS (RECOMMENDED BY THE world’s most EXPERIENCED EDITORS)

The make-up... THE LIP COLOUR Hermès Rouge Hermès Matte Lipstick, £58 The perfect red, orange, pink and burgundy in a brushed metal case created by Parisian shoe designer Pierre Hardy; from the fashion house that brought us the Birkin bag, we’d expect no less. THE FOUNDATION Givenchy Teint Couture City Balm, £43 A city girl’s must have: healthy skin tint in a tube, with added SPF, pollution and blue light shield. Tick. Tick. Tick. THE MASCARA Fenty Beauty Full Frontal Volume, Lift & Curl Mascara, £21 It doesn’t matter what you start out with, this full-fat mascara will transform lashes to something dramatic. u have been warned. Fragrance... THE HOLIDAY SCENT Louis Vuitton California Dream, £200 As if the packaging wasn’t enough, this joyful scent became the beach-holiday-in-a-bottle for anyone who couldn’t travel this year. We’re still wearing it now, pretending summer’s not…

THE WORLD’S MOST EFFECTIVE BEAUTY PRODUCTS (RECOMMENDED BY THE world’s most EXPERIENCED EDITORS)

The vanity diaries BARBIE FERREIRA

I HIT THE SACK… Pretty early. I like to sleep for as long as possible, as I tend to wake up at least five times in the night, o I have to give myself a lot of extra time. WAKE UP AT…7am, if I’m not working. MY MAKE-UP ROUTINE… Takes around 3O minutes. I don’t wear make-up every day – when I do, I use lightweight products: just concealer and highlighter. If I’m feeling wild, I’ll play with colourful eyeshadows. MY EXERCISE ROUTINE… Involves Pilates a few times a week. I’ve started seeing a personal trainer, which has been more challenging, but I guess that’s the point. MY GREATEST BEAUTY DISCOVERY IS… Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector Pressed in Moonstone, which is a staple of mine. I love the glowy boost it gives my face. WHEN…

The vanity diaries BARBIE FERREIRA

HAVE YOU ORGANISED YOUR death party?

Shatzi Weisberger is showing me her biodegradable cardboard coffin over FaceTime from New York. OK, it’s not the one she plans to be buried in (she’s having a coffin-free green burial wrapped in a shroud – aka a fancy table cloth), but it is the one she displayed at the funeral-cum-death-party she organised for herself and attended two years ago. Guests, of which there were roughly 1OO, decorated the now-9O-year-old’s coffin with glitter during an evening spent eating prawn cocktails, drinking wine and getting temporary tattoos. Weisberger’s choir – Brooklyn Women’s Chorus – performed and the guest of honour made a speech discussing everything she’d learnt about death from years of researching, attending courses and hosting workshops. ‘We live in a death-phobic society,’ says Weisberger, whose interest in death first started…

HAVE YOU ORGANISED YOUR death party?

New YEAR, NEW view

1. VAN LIFE Take your next road trip up a notch by renting a campervan from the super-luxe likes of Glamper RV. For a cool conversion, head to Camptoo, the Airbnb of motorhomes. Or, if you prefer a classic 1967 VW, visit O’Connors Campers. There are plenty of incredible adventures to be had in Europe, such as driving down the Estrada rebrand, where you’ll pass through castle-crowned towns, the Douro Valley’s terraced vineyards and the pretty ‘garden city’ of Viseu, named on account of its multiple parks. Proof that sometimes it’s the journey, not the destination. 2. TAKE ME TO TRANSYLVANIA Long-haul travel may remain unpredictable for some time. Lucky then, that we have unique, up-and-coming destinations such as Transylvania, just a three-hour flight from the UK, where newcomer Bethlen Estates is set…

New YEAR, NEW view

THREE DAYS IN... Lapland

DAY 1 First stop is Finland’s vibrant capital Helsinki, a seaside city with eye-catching architecture at every turn. Its Design District is packed with cool shops, from Scandi-chic homeware store Kauniste to cult stationer Papershop. Start the day with breakfast at Hotel F6 (above): a feast of fish, cold cuts and freshly baked goods. From there, it’s easy to stroll to all the cultural spots, from Senate Square to Helsinki Cathedral (left) and Kiasma art museum. THE HOT TICKET Löyly Löyly is not your average public sauna – all black concrete, glass and birch wood, it also houses an excellent restaurant and cocktail bar. DAY 2 It’s just over an hour’s flight north to Rovaniemi in Finnish Lapland, where temperatures can drop below minus 3O degrees in winter. There, you’ll find the magical Arctic Treehouse Hotel,…

THREE DAYS IN... Lapland

WHAT TO KNOW It’s easy to think there are no undiscovered corners of Cornwall left. That is, until you get to Harlyn Bay: a pretty slice of Cornish paradise on the north coast of the county, where the pale lemony beaches still host Mr Whippy ice-cream trucks and the sea is not, as yet, choked with hundreds of surfers. It has one of the most picturesque coastal walks in the country and, with Padstow just two miles down the road, your food cravings will be more than sated. The Padstow Farm Shop, just outside town, is laden with local bounty, perfect for picnic fare. For something smarter, try Paul Ainsworth at No6 in the centre of town. WHERE TO STAY The Pig at Harlyn Bay is the hotel opening of the year. Just…

My fashionable life KAREN ELSON

GROWING UP IN LANCASHIRE , I HAD NO STYLE. I was quite wild-looking. I had strawberry-blonde Shirley Temple curls; my knees were always scraped, my dresses always wrinkled. My shoes were scruffy because I’d spend forever on the swings and scuff them. I WAS 16 WHEN FASHION ENTERED THE EQUATION. I went to Paris for my first big job, and the French took one look at me and said, ‘Non, non, non.’ So my agent took me to Zara and we bought a black trench coat and a black dress. It was before I was a flaming bright redhead, and they cut my hair into a very chic, short haircut. It was the first time I went, ‘Oh, OK. This is fashion.’ I WAS EXPERIMENTAL WHEN I STARTED MODELLING. I was friends…

My fashionable life KAREN ELSON

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