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31 Articles

IS IT FASHION’S TURN?

Is the industry that excites and entices us— or at the very least helps us to get dressed every day—beginning to experience that most dreaded of D words: disruption? The media has certainly had to deal with disruption. And it hasn’t been easy, as the number of late, lamented magazines and newspapers attests. Now it’s fashion that seems to be on a collision course with change. Many houses— Dior, Lanvin, Oscar de la Renta, Calvin Klein, and Balenciaga among them—have recently undergone major shake-ups. So relentless are the forces, both commercial and creative, that top fashion designers labor under that many no longer seem willing or able to keep it up. The number of collections has grown from two a year to eight or 10. Add to that the importance of licensed…

IS IT FASHION’S TURN?

GEORGE SMITH HOSTS ELLE DECOR DURING LEGENDS OF LA CIENEGA The Los Angeles showroom of British furniture brand George Smith hosted a panel discussion moderated by ELLE DECOR Editor in Chief Michael Boodro during this year’s Legends event, an annual three–day celebration of design held in the city’s La Cienega Design District. The panelists included L.A.– based dealers and designers Bianca Chen, Nancy Kintisch, Sabin Ousey, Suzanne Rheinstein, and Richard Shapiro who discussed the topic “Big Personality: Creating Distinctive Rooms in a Standard–Issue World.” MODERN FORMS Magically create a sense of drama and elegance in any room with the new Elessar LED wall sconce by Modern Forms. The luminaire is spectacularly crowned with solid crystal containing frozen bubbles that project thousands of sparkles upward. Call 800.526.2588 or visit modernforms.com A&D BUILDING NEW YORK |…

MUTUAL APPRECIATION “From the first time we worked together, it was love at first sight,” says editor Cynthia Frank of her friendship with photographer Douglas Friedman. “We walk into a shoot, and we both know exactly where to start. We see things the same way.” Friedman agrees: “We’re definitely an odd couple. When we walk onto a set, the pairing is a little unexpected, at least in terms of appearance—Cynthia is meticulously put together. But we both love what we do, and we feed off of each other’s creative energy.” The duo worked on this month’s feature on the Long Island home of fashion designer Veronica Swanson Beard, whose sister, Claiborne, is married to Frank’s son James, page 154. “Veronica called us the Dream Team,” says Frank. FALL IN LINE Retail maestro Jeffrey…

ELECTRIC YOUTH Few artists rose to stardom as swiftly as Jean-Michel Basquiat, who was 20 when his graffitiinspired paintings were included in a gallery show alongside work by luminaries Jenny Holzer and Kiki Smith. Merging Afro-Caribbean style with a punk, street-art sensibility, the Brooklyn-born Basquiat blazed a trail across the downtown New York art scene of the 1980s before his untimely death at age 27. Now Alice + Olivia—the ultracool womenswear label beloved by Michelle Obama, Taylor Swift, and Beyoncé—is partnering with the Basquiat estate to create an array of clothing and accessories featuring the flamboyant artist’s instantly recognizable motifs. A clutch and a knit top bear his signature gold crown, a leather jacket is embellished with his characteristic paint daubs and a lightning bolt, and jeans, skirts, and bags are…

1 / FLYING COLORS The British design studio Wallace Sewell, known for geometrically patterned textiles in vivacious colors, has created a collection for West Elm that includes eye-catching cotton pillow covers with textured crewelwork fronts. From top: Kente, 20• sq., $39; Blocks + Stripes, 12• w. x 21• l., $29.westelm.com 2 / LATERAL THINKING Ryden Rizzo’s brass-and-wood Aperture table lamp for Allied Maker bounces and diffuses the light from a 40-watt LED bulb through an adjustable opaque-glass dome. Shown in Satin Brass with a Walnut handle, the lamp comes in a range of metal and wood finishes. 20• w. x 11.5• d. x 27.5• h., $3,350. alliedmaker.com 3 / SLIM FIT Nika Zupanc brings her cutting-edge elegance to a line of powder-coated steel furniture for Sé. The Stay bench comes in two versions— one with a…

REVOLUTIONARY FERVOR

The phantasmic, politically charged murals of Diego Rivera and José Clemente Orozco, the visionary self-portraits of Frida Kahlo—north of the border, these frequently reproduced works have come to stand in for 20th-century Mexican art, overshadowing the contributions of many lesser-known contemporaries. “Paint the Revolution: Mexican Modernism, 1910–1950”—a wide-ranging exhibition at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, organized with Mexico City’s Museo del Palacio de Bellas Artes, to which it will travel next year—sheds light on dozens of forgotten artists, who looked to their country’s indigenous traditions and crafts while engaging with the European avant-garde. The show’s nearly 300 works include Dr. Atl’s fiery-hued paintings of Mexico’s mountains and volcanoes; Manuel Álvarez Bravo’s affectionately off-kilter photographs of everyday life; Mardonio Magaña’s sensitive carved-wood sculptures of Mexican peasants; and painter José Chávez Morado’s…

REVOLUTIONARY FERVOR

“Touch is very important,” says sculptor Carlos Otero. It’s not a surprising declaration for someone who works with clay. But the Manhattan-based Argentinean is referring to his finished pieces, which he encourages admirers to hold. “I make shapes that are just begging to be picked up,” he says. Out of a studio in the city’s Chelsea neighborhood, Otero spends his days working with brown clay that eventually becomes the camel-toned ceramic works he gleefully describes as having “no function at all.” He takes particular pleasure in the medium’s lack of rules and the freedom that comes with having to please only himself. It is a level of liberation only a trained architect and interior designer, as Otero has been for most of his working life, might feel; he has grown tired…

SHINING EXAMPLE

“Since I was five, buying polished pebbles in museum shops with my mother, I have had no other interest,” says London-based jewelry designer Lauren Adriana. “A lot of children are mesmerized by jewels—I just took it further than most.” Only 31 years old, Adriana has confidence and determination that are evident in her abstract, overscale creations. Her earrings and rings set the rare and intriguing gems she loves—pink diamonds, bright blue zircons, flame-hued garnets, lavender spinels—against boldly carved semiprecious stones or architectural frames of patinated metals. For her Palm earrings, crisp fronds of green bronze emanate from ovals of tourmaline bordered by sapphires and diamonds. The fine diamond bands of her Slinky ring form a cage over a bed of pavé emeralds. Adriana had already immersed herself in jewelry history, with…

SHINING EXAMPLE

Andrew Masullo hems and haws when asked to explain how he goes about painting his modestly sized canvases of brightly hued shapes. “There really isn’t much of a process,” he finally claims. “I don’t have any clue as to what’s going to happen. I don’t know what color I’m going to start with. Nothing. “I never even know which way is up or down,” he continues. “Sometimes a picture will be 99 percent done, then I’ll turn it upside down and think, Ah, it’s much better this way.” Masullo’s improvisational bent has its origins in the early 1980s. After earning his art degree from Rutgers University, he moved to New York City and briefly worked at the Whitney Museum of American Art before getting fired. Two exhibitions around that time, Joseph Cornell…

GRACE CODDINGTON

Grace Coddington has never been particularly impressed by celebrities. So it’s ironic that she has become such a star herself. Although she was long revered within the fashion industry as the visionary creative director of Vogue, it was only with the release of the 2009 documentary The September Issue that Coddington— with her flame-red hair and insistence on artistic integrity—became a media sensation. She stepped down from her post earlier this year but, at age 75, she is hardly slowing down. The Welsh-born New Yorker still contributes to the magazine, recently launched a fragrance with Comme des Garçons, and this fall publishes her fourth book, Grace: The American Vogue Years (Phaidon), a compilation of her most memorable sittings from 2002 to 2015. “I don’t get tired of fashion,” she says.…

GRACE CODDINGTON

“Raoul Dufy is pleasure,” Gertrude Stein famously wrote in 1946. For Dina Vierny, sculptor Aristide Maillol’s muse, he was “bubbly, amusing, and always playing pranks.” More than anything, the Frenchman was a painter of leisure. His favorite themes were the seaside, racecourses, and musical instruments, and his canvases are filled with bright colors and a carefree spirit. His most famous work, La Fée Électricité, is an immense fresco created for the 1937 International Exposition and now housed in the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris. He insisted on painting every inch himself. Less well known is Dufy’s work in the decorative arts. Over the course of more than three decades, he produced some 5,000 textile designs, nearly 200 ceramics, and four dozen tapestries. He also created theater sets and…

KOLB ON THE FUTURE OF FASHION

It’s been 11 years since Steven Kolb took on the top job at the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the not-for-profit trade group whose 500-plus members include Tory Burch, Marc Jacobs, and Michael Kors. From his office in New York’s West Village, the dapper former AIDS fund-raiser serves as the industry’s head cheerleader and organizerin-chief, overseeing everything from the glittering CFDA awards ceremony to scores of programs nurturing young talent, including the Fashion Incubator, which offers mentoring, networking opportunities, and studio space. But the shy kid from New Jersey—who says that when he started he “didn’t have a clue who Proenza Schouler was”— is just warming up. Last year, he celebrated the rollout of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, and this spring, in the latest of a string of…

KOLB ON THE FUTURE OF FASHION

CUISINE À LA MACHINE

SMART APPLIANCES Ovens are beginning to think for themselves. In early 2017, Jenn-Air’s Wi-Fi–enabled ones will link with Innit technology to vary the temperature and cooking mode based on any given recipe. It intuitively knows to turn on the convection or blast the broiler, taking the hovering out of roasting the perfect chicken. Another virtual assistant, out in January: Smarter’s suction-mount camera, which sends photos from inside your fridge to your phone, so you know what you need. Smarter is also developing a sensor mat you can place in your refrigerator or cupboard to alert you when staples are running low. ROBOTIC KITCHENS Housekeeping robots are nothing new, as anyone who’s purchased a Roomba vacuum can attest. But in 2018, the personal chefs and food-delivery services of the world will have reason to…

CUISINE À LA MACHINE

PRACTICAL BEAUTIES

SURFACES Thanks to innovations in technology, kitchen materials are growing more soulful and stylish even as they become more practical. Diesel Living with Iris Ceramica is creating ceramic tiles for backsplashes that might be mistaken for industrial glass, as well as tiles for floors and walls that replicate the corroded wear of stair treads. Dekton’s XGloss Solids large-slab countertops are manufactured to be as sleek as a lacquered jewel box but resilient enough to withstand scorching and knife scratches. Lapitec’s sintered stone slabs—touted for their nonporous, bacteria-resistant qualities— now come in a sandblasted finish ideal for outdoor kitchens. And Caesarstone’s quartz surfaces in nine new colorways have veining that looks nearly identical to marble, yet they retain quartz’s durability and ability to resist stains. PANTRIES The humble pantry is back, larger, more organized,…

PRACTICAL BEAUTIES

PLANTING A SEED Farm-to-table becomes wall-totable, as even devout urbanites begin to cultivate herbs and heirloom tomatoes right in their own kitchens, no terrace necessary. GrowBox drawers from Romebased BioPic stimulate photosynthesis with LEDs and include nutrient-dense soil that’s been tailor-made to help sunless plants thrive. And some systems forgo dirt altogether: The soil-free SproutsIO, developed by MIT Media Lab grad Jennifer Broutin Farah, grows produce in plug-in countertop pods that require only 2 percent of the water typically used on conventional farms. No green thumb needed: Water misting and lighting is automated, and there’s even an app that alerts you when homegrown crops are ready for harvest. STEAM ON THE RISE Why cook with fire when you can cook with steam? It’s considered one of the best ways to both retain vitamins…

COOKING WITH STYLE

“The kitchen is going to get even more comfortable—very informal, very relaxed. It will be a space that feels nice to be in. The open living concept is here and will be for a long time. People like the feeling that they are in their living room and kitchen at the same time. That doesn’t mean kitchens will become bigger, but they will become more artistic and creative. For materials, it translates into organic-feeling finishes, such as hot-rolled stainless steel and light-colored woods. For floors, I often use hand-scraped European white oak and wide planks. Sometimes I rub a little aluminum paste into the planks to give them a driftwood effect.” —MICK DE GIULIO “In terms of materials, we’re still seeing lots of engineered finishes that feel natural: quartz countertops,…

COOKING WITH STYLE

ENTERTAINING PROSPECTS

I made the most darling meal for the Wagners and the Hernandezes last night. First, I Wi-Fried a pile of potato matchsticks. Then I topped each portion with crème fraîche from my Xanthan Gun and topped that with a generous dollop of caviar 3D-printed from my phone: absolute heaven! The six of us pulled up our stools and ate right at the counter—kitchen-island paradise. Part of what makes entertaining such a snap today is that you can have your Hiveminder pre-collect all your guests’ dietary restrictions before they arrive. Remember when you used to have to e-mail guests the week before, and they’d write back with inane comments like “I only eat chervil”? I love to know allergies and pet peeves in advance, as well as people’s issues. Thank God my electronic…

ENTERTAINING PROSPECTS

Pops of bright color highlight the all-white kitchen in the Palm Beach house that architect Christine Harper created for fashion designer Lisa Perry, her husband, Richard, and their two children. The cabinets are custom made, the counters are Corian, the pendant lights are by FontanaArte, and the stools were found in Belgium. The floor is porcelain tile, and the walls are painted in Benjamin Moore’s Chantilly Lace. CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: RICHARD POWERS, STYLIST: AMANDA TALBOT; ERIC PIASECKI; SIMON UPTON. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: WILLIAM WALDRON (3); KARL LAGERFELD…

THE TOP 10 DINING CHAIRS

It used to be that a Chippendale-style dining table called for Chippendale-style chairs. But these days, we want to put together our own combinations. And it’s what we sit on—not around—that makes a statement. “The seating, not the table, is what catches the eye,” says designer Will Wick. Striking a balance of shapes and materials is key. “A round table complements angular chairs,” decorator Nicole Gibbons says. “For a glass-topped table, upholstered chairs bring softness.” While kitchen chairs can be relaxed and playful, more formal dining rooms demand a degree of elegance. “A sculptural chair feels right for a dining room,” says Wick. “If you throw seated dinner parties, your guests will appreciate a cushioned, roomy chair.” Mixing multiple styles has become popular, but both designers warn against an overly motley collection…

THE TOP 10 DINING CHAIRS

ACHIEVING CLARITY

ELLE DECOR: How would you describe the area where you live? LORENZA MARENCO: It’s a mostly residential neighborhood quite near the center of the city, southwest of the Duomo, just outside the site of the Roman wall. ED: And what about the building? LM: It’s from the 1970s and faces an archaeological site, the ruins of a Roman amphitheater, which is in a parklike setting where no one will ever be able to build. So it has unusually open views. Most homes in Milan look inward, to courtyard gardens, but I love being able to look out and see greenery and sky. ED: Where were you living before, and why did you decide to move? LM: We were in the same neighborhood, but when our son came along, we moved—in part because we needed more…

ACHIEVING CLARITY

BURIED TREASURE

In France, the sunchoke has a storied history. During World War II, it was one of the only vegetables available to eat. It took years for people to get over their bad memories of that difficult time, and for sunchokes to become popular again. When I was young, they were mostly cultivated to feed animals. It wasn’t until I came to America that I began to appreciate them for their earthy, nutty taste. The sunchoke is also known as the Jerusalem artichoke—misleadingly, because it’s not an artichoke and it’s not from Jerusalem. A relative of the sunflower, it was a staple of Native Americans, particularly in Canada. It was brought to Europe in 1613 by a visiting tribe of Brazilian Indians, and it’s thought that its name is a distortion of…

BURIED TREASURE

ITALIAN-WOVEN LUXURY, DREAMT FOR AMERICA This year, SFERRA celebrates 125 years of crafting true luxury. Everything we make bears the mark of the artisan and honors a long heritage of impeccable craftsmanship. As the perfect archetype of this tradition, our casually elegant Plumes bed linens are elaborately embroidered atop our best-selling percale. Expressly available at neimanmarcus.com. MINTED ART STYLING SERVICES Minted, the design marketplace, is now offering art styling services. For $79, a Minted art stylist will help you curate the perfect mix of art from their collection. Get started with Minted’s free style quiz at minted.com/gallery. MR. BROWN LONDON Mr. Brown London believes in freedom of expression. That’s why we invite you to make your own choices and give us the challenge of creating something just for you. In Mr. Brown’s Custom House you…

TURN FOR THE BETTER

TURN FOR THE BETTER

CLASSIC with a KICK

IN THE LANGUAGE OF DAILY LIFE, time is an adversary: We race against it, kill it, beat it, and monetize it. We hire experts to erase its scars, then we unroll yoga mats in an effort to pacify it. Veronica Swanson Beard has acquired a surprising ally in this fray: a house. Situated in Locust Valley, on Long Island, it’s where she and her family—including husband Jamie Beard and three boys under the age of 10—spend their weekends appreciating time’s benevolent side as a bestower of memories. “I wanted the notches on the doorjamb, the games in the backyard,” says Swanson Beard, coowner of an eponymous sportswear line. And the 1865 farmhouse—surrounded by stone terraces and almost five acres of formal gardens—offered the perfect setting. “It’s got this magical family feeling,”…

CLASSIC with a KICK

PRECISION TAILORING

When Jeffrey Kalinsky first visited the raw space in New York’s Meatpacking District that would become his fashion-forward store, Jeffrey, he knew right away that the location would work. Never mind that it was the late 1990s, when the neighborhood was still relatively rough-and-tumble, long before the High Line. Kalinsky made a handshake deal with the landlord on the spot. He had the same gut reaction when he first saw the West Village townhouse he bought in 2005, after searching for a home for two years. The 1965 modernist structure with a stone facade immediately appealed to his midcentury aesthetic. What’s more, the nearby cobblestone streets and waterfront reminded him of his hometown of Charleston, South Carolina. “Most of my friends were living in highrises with fabulous views,” Kalinsky says, “but…

PRECISION TAILORING

FORTUNE’S FOLLY

This was a really strange house when I first saw it,” says Robert Duffy, smiling as he shows off the octagonal living room of his country house in New York’s Hudson Valley. The space is exquisitely decorated, with pale walls the color of a duck’s egg and, at its center, a vast mahogany table dominated by an enormous Chinese bowl of periwinkle hydrangeas. Clearly, there had to be a mysterious backstory. “Thirty years ago, I had a weekend home across the river,” Duffy, founder and deputy chairman of Marc Jacobs International, explains. At the time, an acquaintance showed him an uninhabited folly on the grounds of Ferncliff, the old Astor estate near Rhinebeck. He learned that when the Astors needed a break from the constrained formality of their main residence, they…

FORTUNE’S FOLLY

Cordelia de Castellane has always been known for her quirky yet classic taste in children’s fashion design—both at her own label, CdeC, as well as at Baby Dior, where she has served as creative director since 2012. So it is no surprise that the triplex on Paris’s Left Bank that she shares with her banker husband, Igor de Limur, and four children evokes that same whimsical style. “It’s our dollhouse,” she says, sitting at the long, convivial dining table in her kitchen. The apartment began as de Limur’s one-floor bachelor pad in a 19th-century building not far from the Musée Rodin. When he and de Castellane (whose previous apartment was published in ELLE DECOR in April 2009) married a decade ago, they needed more space for her two sons from her…

If Ariel Ashe didn’t happen to have a prodigious talent for designing sleek, seductive interiors, she might have had a career as a matchmaker. It was through Ashe, who started out as an assistant designer for Saturday Night Live, that her sister, Alexi, a human-rights lawyer, met the comedian Seth Meyers (the two are now married). And in 2012, when Ashe was introduced to Meredith Melling—a former Vogue editor who was helping Alexi put together an outfit to wear while accompanying Meyers to the White House Correspondents’ Dinner—she knew right away that the fashion stylist would be perfect for Zach Iscol, a guy she’d known since her childhood summers on Martha’s Vineyard. That fix-up, too, led to true love. Ashe received more than just gratitude for her matchmaking prowess: She also got…

TURNING the PAGE

FASHION CONSULTANT MICHAEL CAREY is a storyteller—not with words, but with the visual language of space, color, and form. Early on, the Oregon native worked for Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger, where he learned to spin brand narratives using the iconography of American prep. He then moved to London for nearly 10 years as director of store development and creative services for the legacy menswear company Hackett London. His visual vocabulary stretched to include the posh English life of cricket, gin, and country houses. Then, five years ago, Carey decided the time had come to tell a more personal story in the form of a country house of his own. He’d already been preparing for the day, assembling a collection of antique furniture and artworks sourced on his shopping trips for…

TURNING the PAGE

Items pictured but not listed are from private collections. MASTHEADS PAGE 48: Welles double blown–glass pendants, in Alabaster White, Smoked Gray, and California Pink, $1,200 each, by Gabriel Scott (gabriel-scott.com). Thom accent chair, in Brown/Gold, #QR-14987-BROWNGOLD-0, to the trade from Curated Kravet (curatedkravet.com). Allium cotton cushion covers, in Blue/Purple and Pink/Red/Green, $68 each, by Cressida Bell (cressidabell.com). PAGE 52: Natural-fiber trays, $55 each, from Maison Numen (maisonnumen.com). Phocee anthracite-and–gold leaf table, $17,280, by Liaigre (christian-liaigre.us). Liro sideboard, in Erable, $13,250, by Mauro Lipparini for Casa International (casaintl.com). TREND ALERT PAGE 84: Stitching throw, #ST-20, $495, by Mantas Ezcaray (mantasezcaray.com). Laramie lamp, in Blue, $486, by Bungalow 5 (bungalow5.com). Layers Vineyard Large woolblend fabric, in Loden/Sky, #465921-003, $155 per yard, by Hella Jongerius for Maharam (maharam.com). Cabana Ring border, in Fern, #977-41248-11, to the trade by…

LALIQUE The MUSE Collection celebrates the iconic BACCHANTES vase, featuring the voluptuous curves of the priestesses of Bacchus. Reimaged in our own Bronze Crystal, unique to LALIQUE. neimanmarcus.com KWIAT: THE ASHOKA¨ DIAMOND The newest Kwiat collection celebrates the patented ASHOKA¨ diamond. This rare and unique diamond cut is now available exclusively through Kwiat in the United States. Learn more at kwiat.com/ASHOKA. APPETITE FOR DESIGN Hinkley Lighting’s new app features their signature blend of inspiration and education. Explore the Source Book to easily create and share project ideas. Kick-start your creative process with the latest in lighting trends, tips and videos. Available on the iPad now. hinkleylighting.com DISCOVER GREAT DESIGN IN ATLANTA On September 27, as part of its annual DISCOVER ADAC series, The Atlanta Decorative Arts Center will play host to three titles of the Hearst Design…

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