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53 Articles

EDITOR’S LETTER

MOVING COUNTRIES DURING A PANDEMIC isn’t an enviable task, but in my case, it did come with a perk: a four-day break in Switzerland’s Lake Lucerne, at a 2018 Readers’ Choice Award-winning Bürgenstock hotel. I’d never been before, but I had a strange sense of déjà vu, possibly the result of flipping through too many magazine pages for the past 18 months and fantasising about everything from the views through aeroplane windows to in-flight meals to actual landscapes and breath-taking scenery. As we drove up 1,400ft, slowly gaining sight of the crystalline lake below and the majestic Alps ahead, I had one very specific thought: this is what I’ve missed. That moment when you realise you’re in an extraordinarily beautiful place and that your entire holiday lies ahead of you. That…

EDITOR’S LETTER

JON HAMM The Globetrotter (p118) ‘My aunt told me once, “Always try to bring home one thing that’s unique to the town you’ve visited,” and I took that to heart. There was a very cool shop in London’s Mayfair, Penfriend, that sold brilliant pens. It’s moved online since I was there.’ Missouri-born actor Jon won two Golden Globes for his turn in ‘Mad Men’ NELSON CJ Writer, Word of Mouth (p23) ‘In Lagos, Nigeria, 16/16 is an exquisitely minimalist residence and creative space that’s perfect for artists looking to work in isolation. It also sells a hyper-curated edit of products. There aren’t a lot of places like it in the city, so it really stands out.’ Nigerian journalist Nelson has written for ‘The New York Times’, ‘Dazed’ and ‘Vice’ VIRGILIO MARTINEZ Eating in Latin…

BELIEVE THE HYPE

THE ART ‘It’s a great time to be a part of the contemporary-art community here,’ says Dolly Kola-Balogun, the 27-year-old founder of Retro Africa gallery in Nigeria’s capital Abuja. ‘There’s such a spotlight on the works being made across the continent and on Black art in general.’ The scene takes in names as varied as pop artist Williams Chechet, described as the Nigerian Warhol, and the well-established Victor Ehikhamenor. But the gallerist is currently excited about emerging players such as Tyna Adebowale, whose pieces focus on gender issues and queer identity, and the self-taught Ken Nwadiogbu, best known for his hyper-realistic paintings. The Art X Lagos fair has played a massive role in empowering the country’s artists and small galleries. ‘The only thing slowing our ambitions was a lack of creative…

BELIEVE THE HYPE

The next chapter

In the late 1970s, when José Ignacio was still a lonesome fishing village, an adventurous, then unknown Argentine chef named Francis Mallmann decided to open an enchanting restaurant there, Posada del Mar. He followed up its success with Los Negros, which had a tin roof and poetry on the walls. The town soon became one of the most sought-after spots in South America. Mallmann went on to garner international fame, and this spot, with its gravel roads and grassy dunes, became a destination for a certain type of traveller – the kind who has seen the world and wants to get away from it for a while. Last December, the chef returned to launch the beachfront open-flame restaurant Chiringuito Francis Mallmann. Inspired by Luchino Visconti’s seaside scenes in Death in…

The next chapter

TURN THE BEAT AROUND

A wild expanse in the north-east of the Northern Territory, Arnhem Land is Australia’s final frontier, home to the Yolngu people and said to be the birthplace of the didgeridoo, possibly the world’s oldest musical instrument. The region has always had music in its DNA, but it was arguably rock band Yothu Yindi that propelled the Yolngu voice into the 21st-century spotlight with Nineties hit ‘Treaty’. Since then, this remote part of the Top End has been steadily rocking out to fresh waves of creative chart toppers. Hip-hop sensation Danzal Baker – known as Baker Boy and the Fresh Prince of Arnhem Land – grew up between the communities of Maningrida and Milingimbi, and his dynamic raps, in his native Yolngu Matha and English, have catapulted him into the mainstream.…

TURN THE BEAT AROUND

WHAT’S TOUCHING DOWN AND WHAT’S PACKING UP

ARRIVALS LA VIE EN ROSE Pastel-loving Wes Anderson’s muchanticipated film The French Dispatch will get cinemagoers ooh-la-la-ing from 22 October. With a host of the director’s long-time favourite stars – Adrien Brody, Tilda Swinton, Owen Wilson and more – it follows a group of writers who work on an American magazine based in an archetypal French town (filmed in Angoulême in south-western France). PANDEMIC PICK-ME-UPS Big-hitting spas are prescribing coronavirusfocused packages. Austria’s Lanserhof Lans is battling long Covid via breathing therapy and altitude training. Villa Stéphanie in Germany boosts immunity with ozone therapy, while Spain’s SHA Wellness Clinic offers cutting-edge photobiomodulation, delivering light to the brain to stimulate cells. SPIN-OFF SHOWS With a Scottish outpost already in Dundee, the V&A is now working on an East London site at Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. Florence’s Uffizi Gallery…

THERE ARE 300 PEOPLE IN THE one-pub village where I live in Sussex, and just about everybody has something to say of Robin Hutson’s latest hotel, The Pig in the South Downs. Namely, is the historic county – white cliffs, family-run vineyards, pebbly beaches, brick-and-flint towns and all – about to be rumbled? The area is often forgotten by tourists. It’s puzzling given the landscape, as Arcadian as any in Britain, and the one-podcast-and-you’re-here train from London. But for better or worse, things here are on the move. In the same year, we’ve had a Polizzi Collection property – The Star – open in Alfriston, East Sussex, and now a Pig in Madehurst, West Sussex. Is it a Good Thing? Titbits about the arrival have been making the rounds in these…

NOMAD LONDON, COVENT GARDEN

Despite the Ace Hotel’s departure from the city, there’s something of a USA revival going on in London, with The Standard landing in King’s Cross and the Mondrian just launched in Shoreditch (see next page). And earlier this year, the first NoMad outside the States opened in a palatial former magistrates’ court opposite the Royal Opera House. It came with some expectation – after all, the original put a whole New York City neighbourhood on the map, its Dirty Martini-fuelled bar an overnight sensation – but has hit the ground running. The centrepiece restaurant, in a luminous, almost neoclassical atrium draped with greenery, was booked up for weeks, a see-and-be-seen destination. There’s plenty of showmanship here, but it’s more Noël Coward than PT Barnum: vintage chandeliers, brass and crimson, mohair…

NOMAD LONDON, COVENT GARDEN

BEAVERBROOK TOWN HOUSE, CHELSEA

A smart offshoot of the Surrey Hills original, this property has taken over a pair of restored Georgian townhouses in a prime position near Sloane Square. It feels like a joyous and timely celebration of the capital – especially on the stairs where an extraordinary collection of artwork has been cherry-picked by creative director and advertising legend Frank Lowe: old posters for the Boat Race, Brooks’ Peckham Brewery and Kew Gardens. Just as bedrooms in the country mansion pay homage to former owner Lord Beaverbrook’s friends and guests, here each one is named after a London theatre, with framed programmes of past productions and books on opera and Laurence Olivier. Interior designer Nicola Harding, who previously worked on the estate’s Garden House, has used a bolder, more playful palette for…

BEAVERBROOK TOWN HOUSE, CHELSEA

MONDRIAN LONDON, SHOREDITCH

This East London enclave should really have had its day. It’s been years since Shoreditch’s street-food stalls, concept bars and cutting-edge boutiques started taking off. Then came the smart stays, award-winning cocktail dens and Michelin-starred restaurants. Bright young creatives were quickly priced out of living here. Then, over the past 18 months, the once-buzzing streets went silent. A couple of big names closed for good and there was space for fresh players to shake up the re-emerging neighbourhood scene. Mondrian, the city-slicking group dreamt up by Ian Schrager in the 1990s, was primed to launch a new London hotel after handing over the keys of its South Bank stalwart a few years ago. The company, helmed by the Reuben brothers, took over splashy members-club-hotel The Curtain when it shuttered and…

MONDRIAN LONDON, SHOREDITCH

HENRY’S TOWNHOUSE, MARYLEBONE

Heritage and hedonism are happy bedfellows at Henry’s. Said to be Jane Austen’s favourite brother, the eponymous proprietor lived here in the 19th century, putting the author up as she toiled away at her masterpieces – apparently early sections of Sense and Sensibility were written here. Today, there are first editions of her works to pore over in the velvety Snug, with its enormous fireplace and tumblers of whisky. That’s the kind of vibe that owners Steven and Jane Collins have established throughout the sevenbedroom Georgian house, previously a ‘dreadful’ B&B. The couple injected a hefty dose of fun and frivolity into every corniced corner during an 18-month makeover, for which they tapped designer Russell Sage, behind some of the city’s best-looking addresses (The Savoy Grill, Zetter Townhouse). As well…

HENRY’S TOWNHOUSE, MARYLEBONE

THE LOST POET, NOTTING HILL

This property arrives six years after the local hotel scene was levelled up with The Laslett, whose five Victorian mansions, made over by a British group keen to invoke a sense of ‘old’ Notting Hill, put the district back on the map for shiny people looking for late nights and a fun vibe. But The Lost Poet has opened in what is today an entirely different neighbourhood, one that collectively leans into the hyper-local, where the baristas know your coffee order and the most curious new bakery/restaurant/bar is only stumbling distance from the front door. On the quiet end of Portobello Road – before the vegan cafés, film-set mews and paintbox-pastel terraces with makeshift lemonade stands – the unmarked townhouse is capturing the zeitgeist for serious privacy and a sense…

THE LOST POET, NOTTING HILL

LIME TREE HOTEL, BELGRAVIA

This Ebury Street townhouse conversion is a masterclass in how to maximise eclectic style in a small space. It also delivers on a hard-to-keep promise: an elegant hangout that feels like home, in a great location, at an affordable price. Owners Matt and Charlotte Goodsall opened the property in 2008, quickly turning it into the area’s loveliest little boutique hotel. They reframed challenge as opportunity in last year’s lockdown, overhauling the interiors and adding a new café. The couple enlisted Fraher & Findlay architects, whose previous projects include Wolf & Badger in Coal Drops Yard, but relied on their own taste for the decorative details, sprucing up corners with Sanderson wallpaper and Pooky lampshades. The 28 bedrooms range from minuscule to moderately sized, but this only contributes to the country-cottage…

LIME TREE HOTEL, BELGRAVIA

MORE NAMES TO WATCH

Two years after wellness-driven hotel Inhabit launched its first property in Paddington, its second opening also lands in W2 this winter. Expect the same socially conscious design – bespoke furniture by Goldfinger, cushions from Aerende – and restful artworks by rising stars. Yoga and meditation classes will add to the pause-and-reset mood. In spring 2022, Jamie Poulton and Ed Baines, the co-owners of Soho restaurant stalwart Randall & Aubin, will be serving up Sicilian-inspired fare at Broadwick Soho – the first London hotel by interior designer Martin Brudnizki. He has already put his stamp on restaurants, bars and members’ clubs around the world (The Britely in Los Angeles is his latest); here, he is taking cues from the area’s gritty glamour to create a townhouse fit for an eccentric grandmother. On Leicester…

HARBOUR BEACH CLUB, SALCOMBE

WHY STAY? Whatever the weather, it’s hard to resist a steps-from-the-sand British hangout, and this box-fresh opening, lowkey but contemporary, has a knockout setting in a particularly lovely part of Devon. WHY NOW? The classic yet rundown Tides Reach hotel closed eight years ago, but a planning-permission battle, local disapproval and 2020’s hindrance to construction made completing the site’s new incarnation a long and arduous process. With some scaffolding remaining (though the views are a good distraction) and finishing touches to come, it kicked off business at the end of this summer. WHAT IS THIS PLACE? Sister to established Salcombe Harbour Hotel, it takes a South Hams staycation in a sprightly direction with barefoot vibes and from-scratch architecture (only the exterior walls of the original Thirties building still stand). Tongue-and-groove and larch…

HARBOUR BEACH CLUB, SALCOMBE

The Y2K style revival was inevitable; the perfect storm of the 30-year fashion cycle looping us back into Nineties acid-pop dressing, alongside a renewed eye for all things digital courtesy of a global lockdown. Fashion’s morph into virtual reality started last year when Marc Jacobs and Valentino previewed looks through Animal Crossing, Nintendo’s life-simulation game. Since then, labels have been pushing the avatar possibilities: you can now try on Chanel styles virtually and even buy designer gear for your Sim from Tribute’s cyber clothing line. The trend has come full circle. After a year of dressing for Zoom, life imitates TikTok with Dolce & Gabbana’s tech-themed AW21 collection. Synthetic colours, faux neons and screen-shimmer fabrics put online culture IRL. One highlight: the eyewear. VR headsets, wraparound visors and, of course,…

COOL CONCEPT Downtown apothecary-meets-curiosityshop Auras is the go-to for all things eco-conscious. It stocks sustainably made pieces by Mexican designers and artisans – woven palm-leaf bags, crystal and ropetied jewellery, hand-carved wooden utensils – as well as its own clothing line created by founder Veronica Genovali. Highlights include belted skirts, beach dresses and smocks with frayed trims, stitched from natural and responsibly sourced fabrics such as cotton, hemp, linen and bamboo. Among the cactus sculptures and geodes dotted around the interior, there are pharmacy-style cabinets filled with clean-beauty serums, soaps and scrubs, petal-infused candles and home fragrances. aurastulum.com LEFTFIELD JEWELLERY Set inside an airy Tulum Beach boutique, ZacBe uses recycled silver and natural materials (raw stones, feathers) for its one-off designs, which are influenced by the region’s ancient cultures and myths. Jewellery is…

FOUNDER OF WILD RESTAURANT ‘For me, there’s nothing better than starting the day with yoga. My go-to spot is Sanará, where the shala is right on the beach overlooking the water.’ ‘The Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most spectacular and ecologically diverse places on earth – take a tour to see dolphins, manatees and turtles, then snorkel along the barrier reef.’ ‘Tulum is full of directional design and unique hotels. Casa Malca is one of the best, with an incredible collection of original artwork by Keith Haring, Kaws and Jean-Michel Basquiat.’ ‘For brunch, head to the plant-focused Real Coconut on the seafront. It has a daily selection of pastries as well as fruit, pancakes and shakshuka eggs.’…

POST CARD FROM ST GALLEN

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE CITY? ‘It is Switzerland’s best-kept secret. St Gallen was once known as the embroidery capital of the world: textile firms such as Forster Rohner, Bischoff and Jakob Schlaepfer have been based here since the 1700s, and it is where the embroidery machine was invented in the early 1900s. My family has been living in the town for generations and our ateliers are here. One of my earliest memories is of my grandmother Alice, the founder of Akris, teaching me how to ski before I was three years old. After that I would long for winter because it meant skiing instead of walking – far more exciting for a child.’ WHICH ARE THE TOP PLACES TO STAY? ‘Einstein Hotel in the old town is the ideal starting point for…

POST CARD FROM ST GALLEN

BEST NEWCOMER You learn the merit of a moisturiser when you go away. Skin is in need of TLC and its recovery depends on a product that you apply religiously. On the surface, Spectacle’s Performance Crème soothes the complexion. On a cellular level, it’s loaded with active ingredients: niacinamide reduces inflammation; hyaluronic acid aids hydration and ergothioneine, an antioxidant found in mushrooms, eases UV damage. Co-created by former Tatler beauty director Olivia Falcon, this one-size-fits-all wonder caters to a traveller’s ever-changing skincare needs. £76 (spectacleskincare.com) BEST SKIN SAVIOUR Many retinol products claim to fade dark spots but Medik8’s R-Retinoate Intense actually does. It contains retinyl retinoate and retinaldehyde to stimulate collagen and restore aged and sun-damaged skin, soften fine lines and improve skin texture. Mixed with squalane and vitamin E, the cream is…

As a seasoned watch editor, I’ve thought long and hard about what I personally want from a timepiece: reliability, of course; a stylish, considered design; and wearability – in other words, when it’s strapped on I don’t want to notice it’s there. The latter point becomes even more important when you go on holiday. Aerodynamics are key; the case should hug the contours of the wrist – curved lugs that attach it to the bracelet help with this – and the best material for a strap is tough fabric, rubber or ceramic, never leather (add heat, sun cream, seawater and sweat and you’ve got the quickest recipe for destruction). But it’s the watch’s weight that’s the current competitive battleground between brands that are turning to strong yet, crucially, light mediums.…

The snake has wound its way through the history of jewellery; it’s one of the most potent motifs to have been used as adornment, with wide-ranging symbolism: rebirth, healing, strength, protection, eternity. No wonder it resonated so strongly with the ancient Greeks and Romans, whose serpent cuffs coiled around wrists and arms and can now be seen in the Met, Louvre and British Museum. But Egypt is arguably most notably associated with the reptile – as queen, Cleopatra presented herself as the reincarnated goddess Isis, whose attributes included a serpent, and she wore a cobra-topped gold diadem. How fitting that Elizabeth Taylor, the greatest jewellery lover of the 20th century, played the ruler in 1963’s Cleopatra. When she was photographed wearing a Bulgari snake bracelet on set, a Serpenti piece…

PAY ONLY £28 FOR ONE YEAR OF PRINT & DIGITAL EDITIONS + A FREE GIFT FROM COCHINE

This luxurious cream sinks into the skin, leaving hands nourished, soft and smooth. Enriched with vitamin E and natural, plumping sodium hyaluronate – both known for their exceptional moisturising properties – the hand cream is lightly fragranced with Cochine’s unique floral scent. This exotic fragrance combines honeyed notes of frangipani with the delicate freshness of neroli. For further information, visit cochine.co.uk FREE INSTANT ACCESS to the iPAD, iPHONE & ANDROID editions FREE GIFT RRP £18 Conde Nast Traveller MEMBERS CLUB MONTHLY OFFERS STYLISH CITY BREAK Tradition meets modernity at luxurious Chelsea bolthole The Cadogan, A Belmond Hotel. With some of the finest food London has to off er, in-room libraries and relaxing gardens, it has everything you’ll need for your stay under one roof. To enjoy 15% off, plus a bottle of Ruinart Champagne on arrival,…

PAY ONLY £28 FOR ONE YEAR OF PRINT & DIGITAL EDITIONS + A FREE GIFT FROM COCHINE

When we asked you to vote in our 2021 Readers’ Choice Awards – the third year running that we’ve teamed up with our sister title in the USA – travel was more wishful thinking than a reality. So we didn’t expect your answers to be based on recent experiences so much as a browse through the virtual holiday album – you’re clearly raring to go. Which were the hotels, spas, cities and islands you’d return to in a shot, and who are the fixers and high-flyers that would get you there? The boom in staycations clearly had an impact on some British and American choices, but in the questionnaire that accompanied the survey, a majority said they wanted to take more trips than ever before, and to seek out new…

They’re a symbol of the very idea of travel. The tropical island with a single palm planted dead centre; a small world with a clear sense of arrival and departure. ‘People who live on islands,’ wrote Tove Jansson in her magical The Summer Book, set in the Gulf of Finland, ‘are always letting their eyes glide along the horizon.’ Your own holiday narratives include lavender-scented Hvar in the Adriatic, which scored highly for its local food and wine, and gilded St Barth’s, re-energised after Hurricane Irma and top for its white-sand beaches. The impossible sunsets and watercolour lagoons of Bora Bora are pure romance for voters, while Nova Scotia’s Cape Breton, an epic distillation of the Atlantic wilderness, is an adventure favourite with families. EUROPE 1 HVAR, CROATIA 96.562 Mykonos, Greece 95.463…

BEST HOTELS FOR FOOD LE BRISTOL PARIS

Paris and cooking go together like, well, icing sugar and egg white. The haute cuisine of Carême and Escoffier, the steak frites of the checked tablecloth; the blanquettes de veau of the Belle Epoque through to nouvelle cuisine and the new wave of bistronomy and beyond. Le Bristol, the grandest dame of them all, has been feeding its guests in fine style since it opened in 1925: now you can start the day with truffled scrambled eggs, pause in the afternoon for a Champagne high tea, and end with foie-gras-filled macaroni – while the green bean and artichoke salad is a cult favourite among regulars (though not resident Burmese moggy Fa-Raon). Its two restaurants have four Michelin stars between them; when they reopened recently, a new talent had joined the…

BEST HOTELS FOR FOOD LE BRISTOL PARIS

BEST CITIES FOR SIGHTS AND SCENERY SEVILLE

By the time Washington Irving, the American author of Rip Van Winkle and The Legend of Sleepy Hollow, visited here in 1829, the Andalucian capital had already risen and fallen several times. Like a mighty oak, it can be aged in rings of history – Mudéjar on top of Renaissance on top of Moorish. ‘If you ever come to Seville,’ he wrote, shortly before hopping on a mule and trotting off to Granada, ‘do not miss visiting its glorious cathedral… visit it at dusk, when the last rays of sun, rather the last shining of the day, shine through its polychrome stained-glass windows.’ When he was here, the sun would also have shone on the Alcázar palace, with its fountains and star-spangled domes, and the crescent sweep of the Plaza…

BEST CITIES FOR SIGHTS AND SCENERY SEVILLE

It’s tricky to pinpoint the exact moment a hotel first decided to flex its muscles, add another restaurant here and a catamaran there and become a resort. There were golf hotels at the turn of the 19th century, the safari camp made its debut in 1950 and Hotel Bora Bora pioneered the overwater bungalow in 1970. Right now, they look pretty appealing – all that space, a pool villa to yourself, enough social distance without missing out on people-watching… Understandable, then, that private-island resorts such as Fiji’s Kokomo and Naladhu in the Maldives performed well this year. As did safari lodges including Angama Mara and Singita Sabi Sand, American ranches, and hard-to-get-to places such as Brazil’s driftwoodluxe Uxua Casa, Six Senses Bhutan and the new Sensei Lanai in Hawaii. Elsewhere,…

Maintaining some sort of wellness equilibrium has been a tightrope act, but these destination spa resorts have the art of relaxation as their core strength. Last year’s number 25, Chiva-Som, is this year’s number one – perhaps something to do with the Thai retreat’s pre-Covid revamp. Its famous chi nei tsang abdominal massage is booked out months ahead. THE WORLD 1 CHIVA-SOM, HUA HIN, THAILAND 99.892 Vana, Uttarakhand, India 99.343 Ikbal Thermal Hotel & Spa, Afyonkarahisar, Turkey 99.334 Bürgenstock Hotels & Resort, Lake Lucerne, Switzerland 99.185 COMO Shambhala Estate, Bali, Indonesia 99.166 Ananda in the Himalayas, Uttarakhand, India 98.967 The Retreat Costa Rica, Atenas 98.808 Valsana Hotel Arosa, Switzerland 98.759 Schloss Elmau, Bavaria, Germany 98.6610 Villa Stéphanie, Baden-Baden, Germany 98.5311 Le Blanc Spa Resort Cancún, Mexico 98.3312 Lefay Resort & Spa Dolomiti,…

Europe’s skiers are readying their lift passes for a return to the slopes in the 21/22 season. The soon-to-be-released House of Gucci, partly filmed in the Italian Alps, should at least inspire Eighties-glam ski holidays to the pistes of Courmayeur – with its shiny Skyway – and to St Moritz, where Maurizio had his chalet. EUROPE 1 COURMAYEUR, ITALY 97.332 Gstaad, Switzerland 94.673 St Moritz, Switzerland 92.214 St Anton, Austria 91.655 Kitzbühel, Austria 90.576 Crans-Montana, Switzerland 89.817 Flims Laax Falera, Switzerland 89.608 Lech, Austria 89.449 Val d’Isère, France 87.4810 Megève, France 85.8311 Courchevel, France 84.9012 Verbier, Switzerland 81.2413 Zermatt, Switzerland 80.9614 Cervinia, Italy 80.7015 Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy 78.0216 Les Trois Vallées, France 76.7517 Val Thorens, France 74.6218 Ischgl, Austria 73.2019 Chamonix-Mont Blanc, France 70.8620 Les Arcs La Plagne, France 70.23 USA 1 DEER VALLEY,…

Even the most gung-ho traveller appreciates a helping hand, and we feel that now, more than ever, fixers with on-the-ground knowledge and local connections are invaluable. What Healing Holidays doesn’t know about spa breaks could be written on a pair of paper pants, while Scott Dunn is seeing interest in the Maldives and Mauritius, unsurprisingly, as well as Finnish Lapland, and Red Savannah’s remit covers gulet charters in Montenegro, ranch holidays in the USA and villas in Jamaica. GENERAL 1 RED SAVANNAH 98.652 The Turquoise Holiday Company 98.143 Mr & Mrs Smith 97.884 Insiders Experience 96.805 Tauck 96.796 Elegant Resorts 96.727 Cox & Kings 95.918 Ker & Downey 95.899 Kensington Tours 95.1110 Intrepid Travel 94.8711 Modern Adventure 94.8212 Classic Journeys 94.3113 GeoEx 94.1314 Abercrombie & Kent 93.9515 Exodus Travels 93.8216 Extraordinary Journeys…

There were no big surprises this year, although Spain and France were notable exceptions from the top 20. Portugal, on the other hand, is a country that just keeps getting better, with a growing appreciation not only of its beaches but its food and wine, and with lesser-known corners such as the artistically inclined Melides on our radar alongside the obvious hotspots of Comporta and the Algarve. Meanwhile, the wild, empty places of New Zealand – about to get another boost with the new Lord of the Rings series – helped it come in second, while Croatia’s sheer variety of islands saw it challenging Greece for salt-flecked popularity. 1 PORTUGAL 94.102 New Zealand 94.043 Japan 93.824 Morocco 93.415 Sri Lanka 93.076 Italy 92.987 Iceland 92.968 Greece 92.719 Croatia 92.5110 Turkey 92.4111…

Was it the Olympic effect? Japan took gold, silver and bronze in world cities, with merits for food, sights and culture, while in the USA, Aspen slalomed ahead of Charleston for the first time. In the UK, Liverpool just missed nudging the English and Scottish capitals from the top. WORLD 1 TOKYO, JAPAN 96.442 Osaka, Japan 95.833 Kyoto, Japan 94.554 Singapore 94.555 San Miguel de Allende, Mexico 93.886 Istanbul, Turkey 93.677 Mérida, Mexico 93.388 Marrakech, Morocco 93.189 Porto, Portugal 92.7810 Aspen, Colorado, USA 92.7311 Bangkok, Thailand 92.6512 Seoul, South Korea 92.5013 Charleston, South Carolina, USA 91.5214 San Sebastián, Spain 91.5215 Chicago, Illinois, USA 90.2216 Alexandria, Virginia, USA 90.1617 Santa Fe, New Mexico, USA 89.5718 New York, USA 88.8319 Greenville, South Carolina, USA 88.6420 Salzburg, Austria 88.34 UK 1 LONDON 89.682 Edinburgh 89.493 Liverpool 89.054…

This is the sort of place many of us have fantasised about waking up in during the past year – a hilltop estate on the east coast of Sicily, with lemon groves to muse in and Grand Tour views of the Ionian Sea to sketch with those newly acquired lockdown skills. It’s part of The Thinking Traveller’s portfolio, which you voted number one this year. Italy appears on the books of many of the other villa fixers but isn’t the only destination: CV Villas has addresses in Corfu and the Caribbean; Scott Williams is seeing increasing interest in Croatia. And while we may not need a place quite as grand as this, as Onefinestay reports, we want to stay longer, always longer. 1 THE THINKING TRAVELLER 99.692 CV Villas 99.633 Oliver’s…

AIRLINES & AIRPORTS

Stalled during the pandemic, with the collective loss of billions, the appetite for flying was kept aloft by Qantas, which launched a sightseeing trip around Australia, while tickets for Singapore Airlines’ pop-up restaurant – onboard a stationary A380 superjumbo at Changi – sold out in minutes. For many, Singapore’s airport, with its rooftop cactus garden and indoor waterfall, feels almost a destination in its own right. AIRLINES 1 SINGAPORE AIRLINES 88.712 Emirates 87.813 Turkish Airlines 86.994 Qatar Airways 85.05 5 Qantas 84.736 Etihad Airways 83.337 EVA Air 83.148 Virgin Atlantic 82.819 Swiss 82.2110 British Airways 82.16 AIRPORTS UK 1 LONDON HEATHROW (LHR) 72.902 London Luton (LTN) 72.103 London Gatwick (LGW) 59.794 Manchester (MAN) 57.655 London City (LCY) 57.33 REST OF THE WORLD 1 SINGAPORE (SIN) 89.582 Istanbul (IST) 89.013 Tokyo Narita (NRT) 84.224 Savannah/Hilton Head (SAV), Georgia,…

AIRLINES & AIRPORTS

As the railway renaissance picks up steam, the romance of the train endures – Belmond’s Edwardianstyle journeys are popular but it was Seven Stars, Japan’s first luxe sleeper, that punched your ticket. 1 SEVEN STARS IN KYUSHU, JAPAN 95.772 Rocky Mountaineer, North America 95.143 The Ghan, Australia 93.904 Belmond British Pullman, UK 92.075 Eastern & Oriental Express, A Belmond Train, Asia 86.856 Palace on Wheels, India 86.07 7 The Pride of Africa – Rovos Rail, Africa 84.078 El Transcantabrico Gran Lujo, Spain 83.799 Belmond Royal Scotsman, UK 83.7410 Belmond Andean Explorer, Peru 81.74…

The skies were noticably empty when you voted in this year’s awards, but few were placed to remark on how quiet the oceans were. In normal times, around 30 million people a year worldwide go on a cruise; the industry’s recovery will be slow but we can look to Royal Caribbean’s first 2021 sailing from Miami in July for the way ahead: rigorous onboard testing and greatly reduced passenger numbers. For many, cruises with fewer stopoffs – Viking’s Norwegian fjord trip, for example – will appeal, while other lines, such as Cunard, introduced scenic routes around the British Isles. And small ships including Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot, an electric hybrid on course for the North Pole, are setting the compass for the future. MEGA SHIPS (More than 4,000 passengers) 1 NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE…

SOURCE MATERIAL

WHEN I BOUGHT and renovated my house in the Fez medina in 2009, everyone asked me where I sourced my interiors from. A little bit guiltily, I’d confess: Marrakech. Fez may be the city of artisans, but Marrakech is the real jewel when it comes to shopping. My mid-century-modernstyle kitchen chairs came from a no-name stall set up on a dusky square near the now rather chic Souk Cherifia; my bold cream, orange, green and black striped curtains were from the tiniest hole-in-the-wall spot near the Palais Bahia that specialised in antique African cloth. I’d scour the stands at Bab el Khemis – still Morocco’s most fruitful flea market – for vintage lamps and bigger pieces to get reupholstered or sprayed with car paint (the design hack of the day). The…

SOURCE MATERIAL

THE SHAPE OF WATER

THE SUDDENNESS OF OBAN ALWAYS surprises me. Without warning, you’re topplingly high above a horseshoe bay in the Firth of Lorn, granite villas jutting into cliffs glittering in the frequent rain. This view is a ravishment. Mull to the west, Lismore to the north, the small island of Kerrera vaporous in the near distance. Hebridean light bouncing off crimson horizons. Everything on shore presided over by the vast folly of a circular tower – a stone halo as though built by Zeus or, in this case, an eccentric banker for reasons nobody could fully put their finger on even when it was constructed just before the turn of the last century. A fantabula to mark Oban’s peak prosperity, when the resort town was the Charing Cross of the Highlands, chimneys…

THE SHAPE OF WATER

STONE-COLD CLASSICS

STONE-COLD CLASSICS

THE GLOBETROTTER JON HAMM

Where was the last place you travelled to? ‘Most recent trips over the pandemic have been work adjacent, but the last “fun” trip I did was, weirdly, to Yellow Springs, Ohio, which is where comedian Dave Chappelle lives. It’s a two-stop-light town but it’s got a really nice antiques shop, a couple of cute restaurants and good ice cream. I got to see some of Dave’s Summer Camp shows. I’m filming in Boston at the moment, then we do two days in Rome, and after that, my girlfriend and I are going to spend two weeks going around Italy. Ischia, Calabria, Amalfi…’ Where in the world have you felt happiest? ‘I did a movie once in North Africa. I had never been to the Middle East or Africa, so I had this grand…

THE GLOBETROTTER JON HAMM

LOCK-IN ANYONE?

THE DOUBLE RED DUKE It’s easy to spot this wisteria-clad 17thcentury coaching inn, with its candy-striped umbrellas forming a jaunty Soho Housestyle beacon. In many ways the revamped Oxfordshire pub (part of the Country Creatures group) draws parallels with the global members’ club. Aimed at city-living weekenders, rooms are decorated with floral wallpaper, botanical block-print lampshades and velvet headboards in burnt orange and teal. Kick off with a house cocktail crafted with gin, basil, white pepper and lemon. Or a vodka: with a whole page of the menu dedicated to local blends – such as silky-smooth Wood Brothers and Toad Rye – the preprandial hour can easily slip into two. Luckily, there’s plenty of delicious fare to keep things on an even keel. Whipped broad-bean mash with flatbreads, say, alongside wood-roasted…

LOCK-IN ANYONE?

If you’re emerging from lockdown feeling sluggish, stressed and uninspired, there’s a sun-splashed corner of Kefalonia that is sure to give you back your mojo. F Zeen Retreat, perched on a pine-clad hilltop above the Ionian Sea, promises to revive worn-down bodies and minds with its all-natural approach to everything from food to fitness. Start your day with sunrise yoga – F Zeen has three outdoor decks with glorious views – or an energising workout in the two-storey alfresco gym (the daily classes are complimentary), before a healthy breakfast buffet by the pool. Join a guided hike to a nearby monastery, take to the gin-clear waters on a kayak or paddleboard, or hop on a private boat to explore the island’s glorious beaches and quiet coves, where you can cast yourself…

From gorgeous tiny coves to sweeping sandy beaches, distinctive rust-red cliffs and shady pine forests, the Algarve region of Portugal is a perfect destination for short-haul sun all year round. Bringing together the best of both worlds – the sensational coastline and the tranquillity of the countryside – is Shantivillas, a handpicked collection of luxury villas in rural spots, all within easy reach of the ocean. Sleeping up to 16 guests, each one is brilliantly set up for families, friends and even special-occasion celebrations such as intimate wedding ceremonies. One of the largest is Casa Cahombo, just 20 minutes’ drive from the popular seaside resort of Vilamoura. Outside, there is a pair of heated pools (one for adults, the other for children), neat landscaped gardens and panoramic vistas; inside, you’ll find…

It’s turning out to be quite a year for the Peruvian chef known for showcasing his country’s extraordinary cooking at Lima’s Central and high-in-the-Andes Mil. This summer his wife and business partner Pía León was named Best Female Chef in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, and they are about to open two further-flung outposts that share Central’s exploratory philosophy. In Moscow, Olluco is set to uncover Russia’s biodiversity – ‘it will revitalise the value of produce such as beetroot, which we’ll use like purple corn in Peru, applying its powerful colour to other ingredients,’ says Martínez. The second, in Tokyo, is going to take a similar approach with the Japanese terroir. Both are rooted in the chef’s South American experiences, which he has traced for The Latin American Cookbook.…

KEEP ’EM PEELED

There was a time when cider was associated with West Country hangovers, peachy-cheeked hoedowns and student discos. But change is fermenting and, using similar methods to winemaking, a new wave of cider is emerging from rural orchards into Michelin-starred restaurants, craft stores and concrete-hewn bars spanning Paris to Portland. THE SOMERSET CONNECTION While France has Normandy and Spain has Asturias, England’s apple heartland is Somerset, so it’s fitting that The Newt is at the forefront of the new cider movement. The hotel has an on-site distillery and 65 acres of orchards, from which 10 varieties are made including the gooseberry-rich Yarlington Mill and The Winston Sparkling, an alternative to Champagne with lychee and mango notes. Guests can take a masterclass in the subject – from learning about the history of cider production…

KEEP ’EM PEELED

EVERY THING UNDER THE SUN

Choosing where to go on holiday is at once exhilarating and exasperating. Do you go for a cultural city break or lazy days by the pool? Do you put fantastic food first or prioritise pampering and wellness? After months of not being able to travel, wouldn’t it be wonderful to have it all? Well, with Malta, you can. This sun-baked island in the Mediterranean is an absolute gem when it comes to packing in hit after holiday hit. Together with its neighbour Gozo, it serves up UNESCO-listed architecture, innovative gastronomy (there are now five Michelinstarred restaurants) and wines, fascinating heritage sites, spectacular scenery and an enviable coastline where you can dive, sail, snorkel and swim to your heart’s delight. Bathing in more than 300 days of sunshine a year, it’s the…

EVERY THING UNDER THE SUN

A TASTING EXPERIENCE WITH LOUIS ROEDERER

BOOK NOW: LOUISROEDERER.EVENTBRITE.CO.UK Limited number of tickets available at £150 per person, which includes a canapé and Champagne reception followed by a signature tasting menu with Champagne pairings The Reims-based Champagne producer was founded in 1776 and taken over by Louis Roederer 57 years later. It was this young visionary who forged the wine’s unique style and character with progressive techniques, such as nurturing the house’s own vines, a rarity at the time. Within a few decades the marque had caught the eye of Russia’s Tsar Alexander II, for whom the now-famous Cristal was created, along with its distinctive bottle: made with clear glass, so the emperor could see that he wasn’t being poisoned, and no punt – the indentation at the base – so anarchists couldn’t hide explosives in it. Today…

A TASTING EXPERIENCE WITH LOUIS ROEDERER

THE AZORES WITH WRITER TRISH LORENZ A handful of prehistoric rocks that spike through the middle of the Atlantic, the Azores is an archipelago of epic landscapes. There are volcanoes and UNESCO World Heritage-listed vineyards on Pico; hidden surf spots and tree-covered cliffs on São Jorge; and alpine forests that nudge crater lakes on Flores. The latter, says Lorenz, is ‘perhaps the most beautiful of the nine islands, definitely the wildest and most elemental. Here, I have a sense of what life must have been like before humans so fully dominated the planet’. This is a destination in which to tap into the new wave of eco travel. VANCOUVER ISLAND WITH CONTRIBUTING EDITOR STANLEY STEWART From wood carvers to beachcombing conservationists, there are many free spirits who call magical Vancouver Island home. On this journey,…

Well known as one of the world’s oldest cities, ATHENS is more than just a cultural city break. Brimming with spectacular archaeological sites – including the Parthenon, which towers over the sprawling city – and breathtaking museums, it has a creative energy that sweeps you up. There’s also an exciting gastronomic scene, with a focus on revitalising traditional recipes using the local produce. visitgreece.gr Sitting in one of London’s most sought-after locations is the INTERCONTINENTAL PARK LANE. The hotel’s prestigious address of No. 1 Park Lane makes it an ideal base from which to explore the nearby neighbourhoods, from eternally elegant Mayfair to the shopping haven of Knightsbridge. The newly refurbished Mayfair Collection rooms and suites are the perfect home from home, with serene interiors inspired by the local Royal Parks.…

HIGH-FLYER JAHID FAZAL-KARIM

What makes Jetcraft so special? Jetcraft is the largest international buyer, seller and trader of business aircraft. We have managed to carve out a unique industry position, situated between traditional aircraft brokers and the manufacturers. Jetcraft has been in business for 60 years, and with more than 20 offices worldwide, the company has experienced exponential growth by investing in its structure and people, while remaining a true ‘family’ in culture. What’s the number-one way a traveller can have a better flight? The consistency, personalisation and control that come with flying in your own jet, and the ability to be anywhere at a moment’s notice while avoiding large crowds and restrictive flight timetables, are all enticing and valuable commodities that contribute to a better flight experience. It’s at times like this when the speed, efficiency,…

HIGH-FLYER JAHID FAZAL-KARIM

NO PASSPORT REQUIRED

THE NEW FOREST Hidden in the heart of the New Forest, but mere miles from the coast, lie the new luxury Shorefield treehouses. Situated within the muchloved holiday retreat of Shorefield Country Park, the enchanting treehouses are brand new for 2021. Sitting high among the branches, the striking structures look straight out of a fairy tale. Spend your days exploring the ancient forest or relaxing on your private deck (complete with pizza oven), then finish with a sundowner in the hot tub, all while taking in the serene views. From £1,050. shorefield.co.uk HEREFORDSHIR With its quaint market towns and wild rolling hills, Herefordshire makes a perfect getaway at any time of year. The charming county may be small but it is certainly mighty, with picturesque towns including Hay-on-Wye and activities to keep even…

NO PASSPORT REQUIRED

ANTASIA, PAPHOS

We’ve become so accustomed to the sand-between-your-toes boho aesthetic of seafront hangouts around the world, with their raffia-woven shades swinging in the breeze, their driftwood furniture and sun-bleached insouciance, that it’s suddenly much more intriguing when a place takes it firmly in the other direction. Here, on a palm-lined promenade of Cyprus’s south-west coast, local architecture studio Psomas has thrown caution to the wind entirely and created a structure that is part sci-fi Tracy Island – all polished-concrete curves – and part art installation, with a forest canopy of metal trees casting perforated shadows over the upstairs bar. A staircase to nowhere coils up like an octopus tentacle out of the roof and then down to the main restaurant where Israeli firm Baranowitz and Kronenberg has riffed further on the…

ANTASIA, PAPHOS

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