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19 Articles

editor’s letter

PEOPLE WHO’VE traveled with me a lot will tell you that I can be guilty of trying to do too much. To be honest, I didn’t fully figure out how to take a proper beach vacation until well into adulthood, because I’d always worry that I wasn’t being active enough. By now I’ve mastered the art of a trip designed expressly for relaxation, but in a city there’s still the urge to go, go, go. In early June I had a rare weekend alone in London and big, ambitious plans for how to spend it. But I also had a cold and was feeling slightly worn down from work and travel and life. So I decided it would be perfectly okay to slow down a bit. My chic room at the…

editor’s letter

READY FOR ITS CLOSE-UP

Like its namesake canal, Panama has historically served as a gateway to other ports of call throughout the Caribbean and South America. But in the last few years, the country’s capital city has emerged onto the global stage: Magnificent hotels are preserving the architecture of Casco Viejo, the colonial center. Restaurant openings are showcasing Panama’s diversity and culinary flair. And getting to the Dubai of Central America (so named for its skyscraper-studded cityscape) is easier than ever, thanks to new flights on hometown carrier Copa Airlines and stops by cruise lines, including Norwegian, Crystal, and Oceania, at the recently expanded Fuerte Amador terminal. Yes, you can do a single shore day—but you’ll want to come back for more.…

READY FOR ITS CLOSE-UP

Just Like Old Times

» AMARLA CASCO VIEJO Located next to the centuries-old Spanish colonial home Casa Góngora, which survived multiple fires over the centuries, Armala opened in 2022 as an eight-room relaxed-luxury refuge which sells art that benefits local Indigenous communities and is convenient for snorkeling excursions to the nearby Pearl Islands. » AMERICAN TRADE HOTEL Built in 1917 as the headquarters of the American Trade Development Company and reborn as a hotel in 2013, this boutique beauty’s colonial design and Jazz Age energy draws tourists and locals alike to its recently reconceptualized music lounge, The Club. Once dedicated solely to jazz, it now also hosts salsa and tango nights, spotlighting the city’s diverse live-music scene. » SOFITEL LEGEND CASCO VIEJO This neoclassical grande dame opened its doors in 2023 after a to-the-studs renovation of…

Just Like Old Times

Panama’s provinces boast many at-the-source culinary experiences: decadent chocolate tastings at Bocas del Toro; distilleries in Herrera Province that make seco, a sugarcane liqueur; the famously delicate Gesha (a.k.a. “Geisha”) coffee in Chiriquí. But it all comes together in the capital, where the country’s gastronomic riches collide with its multicultural history. New homegrown dining rooms are serving sumptuous global fare with Panamanian touches. At Kaandela, in Casco Viejo, Top Chef Panama alum Edy Acedo splices grilled, smoked, and raw ingredients into dishes like pork belly lollipops and clams with plantains. Inside Popino, in the tony neighborhood of Punta Paitilla, guests find Art Deco interiors, live jazz, and artful dishes like bok choy with pan-seared corvina. Sibling spots Kanibal and Calle Dragones both debuted this year atop a parking garage near…

RIFF ZONE “Top jazz musicians come to play at Salotto Italiano, where I like the food and the vibe; you can actually talk over dinner and listen to the performers. And the students put on great jazz shows at the Fundación Danilo Pérez too.” WATERING HOLE “People know Maito because it’s on that list of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants, but I go there because it’s near where I live in the San Francisco neighborhood. Their garden-like outdoor bar is nice for after-dinner drinks.” SWELL TIMES “When I was learning to surf at Playa Venao, just outside the city, it finally clicked for me when I fell into the rhythm of the waves—like hearing music. That, with the blues and greens of the area, was a harmonizing moment.” ANYONE CAN DANCE “My wife, my daughters, and I…

“I TELL MY FRIENDS that I’m now midcentury modern,” the New York–based fashion designer Phillip Lim quips about turning 50. “And like the furniture, hopefully better with age.” Joking aside, Lim, who launched his 3.1 Phillip Lim label in 2005 and now sells his signature clean-lined clothing in shops around the world, saw the landmark birthday as a chance to take stock. “I heard somewhere that, with 50, you get a second dawn. I took that to heart.” For starters, he sold the Manhattan apartment where he’d lived for 16 years and turned his 1940s bungalow on the North Fork of Long Island into his primary home. But the weekend place needed renovating, which was one of Lim’s reasons for booking a trip to Sri Lanka, a destination he’d long dreamed…

SATURDAYS ARE BEST spent at Bob Marley Beach, Lila Iké says. “It’s an escape from the hustle and bustle of Kingston, but at the same time, everyone hangs out there,” she says. “There’s a Rastafarian family who’s always making food, and they have this major sound system playing music.” Raised in a rural Jamaican town, Iké has since made the capital her home, performing across its storied music venues and laying down tracks in studio spaces like Camp Habitat in the Blue Mountains; her debut album will feature collaborations with H.E.R. as well as established Jamaican reggae artists. Below, her tips for Kingston: where to snag records, grab lunch, and catch the city’s best emerging acts. FOLLOW THE MUSIC Jason Panton, who owns Dubwise Jamaica, which throws reggae sound system events, recently…

INSPIRED BY GLENEAGLES

Few properties are so inextricably associated with their location as this Scottish estate, where days are composed of traditional clay pigeon shoots on misty moors and fireside whisky tastings. This year marks 100 years of Gleneagles, which has celebrated by collaborating with the British outdoor brand Barbour and releasing a Rizzoli tome devoted to its glamorous history (royal escapades included), all while planning a centenary ball that will take place this fall. Walk the line between country chic and laid-back glamour with soft creams and pinks that will look as at home in the glen as in the plum-colored American Bar.…

INSPIRED BY GLENEAGLES

AT THE PEAK of the day’s heat, I pulled into the tiny hamlet of Hirase, in Japan’s Gifu Prefecture. I’d just climbed a twisting, waterfall-lined road several thousand feet through Hakusan National Park before descending into the shimmering fantasy landscape of Shirakawa-go, an almost Tolkien-esque village (and UNESCO World Heritage Site) comprising centuries-old farmhouses with peaked thatch roofs. After replenishing myself with a black-sesame ice cream cone, I made a last push toward my destination. My cycling computer told me “destination reached,” but all I could see were closed businesses along a small street. Seeking shade, I flopped against a security gate and began a text to the ride leader saying that I was lost. Suddenly I saw two cyclists from my group in the distance. One, a Dane living in…

I FIRST TASTED lavash in Yerevan, the capital of Armenia, at a restaurant named after the flat-bread. Bakers rolled out huge ovals of thin dough, slapped them against the wall of a clay oven called a tonir, and, after leaving them inside for a minute, pulled out delightfully blistered bread. Pliable and paper-thin, lavash in Armenia is ubiquitous and versatile: For lunch, it can be stuffed with cheese and pickled vegetables; for dinner, it is often served with a barbecued meat called khorovats, the smell of which perfumes almost every street corner in Yerevan. Mine came with an omelet topped with blades of tarragon—an ideal summer brunch. Though lavash was added to UNESCO’s List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage a decade ago, Armenian food has yet to break onto the global…

Antiques Road Show

WHEN LOS ANGELES–BASED designer Clare Vivier began decorating the 19th-century house she’d bought in her husband’s hometown of Saint-Calais, in France’s Loire Valley, she had a particular aesthetic in mind. “I love color and patterns but wanted something peaceful, so the intention was to create a dialogue between those two things,” she says. She wanted the house to have a blend of contemporary pieces, antiques, and textiles from heritage maisons to create a space that, much like her namesake handbag and fashion label, channeled both California fun and French sophistication. She also knew that she wanted her longtime friend Kate Berry, a designer and creative director, to help her make it happen. So this past May, the pair, along with Vivier’s husband, Thierry, hit the road from Saint-Calais and ventured south…

Antiques Road Show

I AM SCALING 1,000 vertical feet of purple sandstone in Colorado’s Sneffels Range and, despite being a nonclimber, feeling weirdly relaxed about it. The steep route is laced with a via ferrata—the system, invented in the Dolomites, of metal handholds, footholds, and cables that climbers can clip into and follow all the way up. “Nose over toes,” my guide instructs—in other words, not pressed up against the rocky slope, as anxious greenhorns often are. Near the top we scuttle through an old mining tunnel and traverse a 230-foot-long cable bridge before stopping to take in the scenery below: the 922-person town of Ouray, cozily enveloped in mountain peaks, and the butterscotch-colored Uncompahgre River. This was exactly the kind of adventure I was seeking in Colorado’s Western Slope. My visit to this…

Continental Drift

THE RAPIDLY BRIGHTENING sky was painted with swaths of orange, pink, and yellow. The early-morning light revealed a city that seemed to be little more than a patchwork of haphazardly planned mid-rise buildings in varying states of repair, punctuated with sprawling bushes, trees quivering in the morning breeze, and lawns sloping toward the nearby sea. The nocturnal beep-beep of tree frogs gave way to the insistent chirp of morning birds that rise from the trees to swoop across the sky like animated chevrons. As I watched the Senegalese sunrise on my first day in Africa, I was vibrating with anticipation. Dakar was waking up, and I was here to witness it. In 2018 I was gifted a DNA testing kit. Although I was born in the UK, I am also Caribbean—my…

Continental Drift

IN AL-BALAD, the historic center of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, the chirping of sparrows mingles with the call to prayer from the 800-year-old minaret of the Al-Shafi’i mosque, as it has for centuries. But change is very much afoot. Workers in hard hats and high-visibility vests are busy at work on the coral stone buildings, cordoned off by aesthetically pleasing green temporary fences. A growing community of Saudi artists is moving into these narrow lanes, bringing modern energy to the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Most of the buildings here date back between 200 and 300 years, when Al-Balad was the main entry point for Muslim travelers arriving by sea on their pilgrimage to Mecca. In recent years the district has hosted Ramadan-related events, the Red Sea International Film Festival, and the Balad…

THE PAST IS PRESENT

On a damp morning in Istanbul, I pay a visit to Zeyrek Çinili Hamam, a recently unveiled museum in a 500-year-old public bathhouse that once echoed with the chatter of the Ottoman middle class. Getting there involves zigzagging through the winding cobbled streets of Zeyrek, one of four UNESCO World Heritage sites in Istanbul. It was a holy place 1,000 years ago, during the Byzantine Empire, but these days it’s uncharted territory for most Istanbulites. Few people are out: only the odd chain-smoking vegetable vendor and some meandering octogenarians doing their grocery shopping. The fall air smells faintly of raw meat, thanks to the butchers who have long populated the neighborhood. Trying to make sense of Google Maps on my phone, I almost collide with several men haphazardly carrying a…

THE PAST IS PRESENT

from a distance, the sandstone pillars resembled a gathering of giants turned to stone by a displeased god. Our group of eight travelers had set out when the sun was at its zenith, and now, as it made its descent, we arrived at this place with air so pure it seemed to hold no scent. The only sound was the wind, as faint as breath. The rocks are called tassili, and some stand more than 300 feet high. They have been carved by this same disarmingly gentle wind over many thousands of years. This is what deep time feels like. When I was a child, a teacher tried to give my class some sense of eternity. Imagine a rock 10,000 miles by 10,000 miles. Every 10,000 years a small bird comes…

You could call it the perfect Philly afternoon. The weather at Franklin Delano Roosevelt Park one Saturday last spring was damp, drizzly, and gray, but no one at the Southeast Asian Market cared. There was too much fresh-pressed sugarcane juice, papaya salad, charcoal-grilled chicken hearts on a stick, crab fried rice, shave ice in countless flavors, and noodles upon noodles to be bothered by a little rain. Assorted languages flowed as groups of senior citizens and families with infants milled about the vendors. A quintuplet of teenage girls in black, white, and gray ’90s-era hip-hop-meets-grunge outfits performed a choreographed dance to K-pop with age-appropriate enthusiasm on a covered stage. A vendor waited attentively as an elderly auntie adjusted her order from 15 to 17 to no, wait—she turned to consult…

hop in, mate,” said Vaughan Mabee, the jovial mohawked executive chef of Amisfield, from inside his silver pickup. We are just outside the precincts of Queenstown, the most famous city in the New Zealand region of Otago, the birthplace of bungee jumping and the self-proclaimed “adventure capital of the world.” “I will show you there is a lot more to this area than leaping off a fucking bridge.” Mabee inhabits a different Otago from the one sought out annually by 2 million thrill-seekers—an Otago I’d come eager to experience. Unfurling beyond the bubble of Queenstown, it’s a part of New Zealand that remains remarkably untrodden, offering a different set of thrills: dynamic wineries producing supple Pinot Noirs; former gold rush outposts reimagined by bold personalities; a culinary and hospitality landscape defined…

SHAILENE WOODLEY on FIJI

I was in Suva, the capital of Fiji, making a film, and our crew took over half of the Grand Pacific Hotel. One day after work, I came back and the pool was full of maybe 40 of the most beautiful men I had ever seen, flapping around in the water. I was like, ‘Who—what is happening?’ It turned out they were the Flying Fijians, the national rugby team, there for the World Rugby Pacific Nations Cup. It was just our film crew and their team sharing this hotel, so we became friends—always seeing each other in the hallways, hanging out by the pool with a boom box, playing cards, and drinking lots of beer. It was like I had a bunch of new cousins. I asked them to show…

SHAILENE WOODLEY on FIJI

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