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37 Articles

The Editor’s Letter

One year ago we were working on Condé Nast Traveler’s annual Hot List issue as we anxiously watched this new illness advance across the world like a storm front. A couple of weeks before we had to ship the magazine off to the printers, our teams in New York and London were sent home. There was something awkward, we acknowledged, about publishing a list of the best new addresses in a moment when everyone was suddenly sequestered in their homes; as we wrote at the time, “We know that right now you’re probably wondering when you’ll be able to take your next trip. When you do, though, we encourage you to use these exceptional openings and launches as your guide. It will be worth the wait.” Well, one long strange year…

The Editor’s Letter

THE 2021 HOT LIST

This year’s annual Hot List of the best new hotels from around the world is a story of resilience. Despite enormous hardship in the travel industry, exceptional properties have continued to open across the globe (nearly a thousand last year in the U.S. alone). As always with this endeavor, each of the 69 picks on this year’s list was safely vetted by our international network of correspondents. But as we’ve learned in the past year, everything is connected, which is why we’ve also expanded the scope of hot to include restaurants, transportation, and destinations, as well as more news we’re excited about set for later this year. In spite of it all, the following pages are full of successes. We think they’re a pretty great way to mark the 25th…

Give a Little Bit

In the past year, we have all been through hell—our own versions, but hell nonetheless. Yet it feels to me that our own pain and the pain we’ve witnessed in others have prompted us to seek connection in ways we haven’t before. For the past six years, I have run a nonprofit that partners with hotels and creates schools to educate and empower local communities for jobs in the industry. Never has my organization received so many inquiries—from people wanting to volunteer at our pop-up hospitality schools and hotel owners looking to engage differently with the world around them when they reopen. It is clear to me that this very brief and critical moment presents an opportunity to renew the shared mission of service that is at the heart of…

Give a Little Bit

HOTEL MAGDALENA

Spread across four open-air buildings on sprawling grounds, Hotel Magdalena is the latest from Austin’s homegrown hospitality firm Bunkhouse. The property occupies the former site of the Austin Opry House and is in a part of town long frequented by the city’s musicians, including Willie Nelson. The hotel pays homage to the neigh-borhood’s roots (rooms are decorated with works by local music photographer Scott Newton) while also drawing on Austin’s swimming hole culture. A 900-square-foot pool echoes the city’s popular Barton Springs, and tiered garden beds planted with cypress and sycamore evoke the Barton Creek Greenbelt. With their cool concrete floors, high ceilings ribbed with sustainable timber, and tiled bathrooms in glossy pop colors, the lake-house-like rooms are a respite from the heat. Conceived and executed largely by women, Magdalena…

HOTEL MAGDALENA

With New Yorkers exploring their home state like never before, last summer’s well-timed arrival of the Maker gave design lovers a fresh excuse to head up to Hudson. Hugging a sunny corner of Warren Street, the town’s antiques-store-lined main artery, the 11-room jewel box channels the creative spirit of its location. It’s filled with one-of-a-kind decor worthy of its name: a metal writing desk made by a French black-smith, handwoven rugs picked up in Morocco. But unlike other design hotels, a large portion of its interiors are for sale, down to the vintage martini glasses. The four suites are odes to different makers—The Artist, The Writer, The Architect, and The Gardener. All rooms have luxe robes and cloudlike bedding. Downstairs, there’s a light-filled restaurant and a modest pool. The best…

Rajasthani opulence meets Wes Andersonian snap at this new take on old Jaipur. The five-suite hotel is discreetly located on a winding side street in the bustling Johari Bazaar (Jeweler’s Market). A lovingly restored 19th-century merchant’s haveli, The Johri is the second property from hospitality mavericks Abhishek Honawar and Siddharth Kasliwal, the ninth-generation owner of India’s oldest jewelry store, the Gem Palace. Interiors are a sea of pastels set off by whimsical touches, like the pair of tiger-shaped chairs and upholstered swing in the periwinkle Neelam Suite. A family temple on the first floor is a place of serenity, while the jungle-muraled Pukhraj Lounge above plies guests with “high chai” and evening cocktails. But it’s the rooftop terrace opening onto the walled Old Town’s maze of low-rises, with the cliffside…

5 Reasons to Dream of Japan

Adrian Zecha’s latest hotel, Azumi Setoda, set on a quiet island in the Seto Inland Sea that’s famed for its lemon, is like a ryokan for modern times, with all the serenity you’d expect from the founder of Aman. An inner garden leads to 22 softly lit rooms where blissed-out guests return after a soak in the adjacent bathhouse. American landscape architect Madison Cox used more than 500 types of flora throughout the interiors at the Tokyo Edition Toranomon, the brand’s first foray into Japan, complementing the hotel’s temple-like tranquility (despite its location in a 38-floor skyscraper in central Tokyo). Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, a sophisticated outpost at Hokkaido’s much-loved Niseko ski resort, is a game changer, from its on-point butler service and personalized ski-gear fittings to its omakase-style dinners.…

5 Reasons to Dream of Japan

This bolt-hole is a reminder of an earlier era, before the billionaires and Hollywood personalities moved in, when Byron Bay was just a groovy surf town south of Brisbane. The revitalized ’80s motel takes design cues from the kaleidoscopic Flamingo Estate in Los Angeles, infusing a nostalgic retro vibe into the renovation—wicker, terrazzo, and chubby furniture—but with a sharp focus on sustainability. Broken original tiles create the Flintstones-like lobby floor, an old brick wall serves as the new library fireplace, hemp provides insulation for the six family-size bungalows, and repurposed timber appears everywhere. The original kidney-shaped pool remains, flanked by a tiki bar, but instead of swim-up cocktails, everyone is drinking biodynamic wine. Sports cars and overstuffed station wagons are parked side by side, with road-tripping families playing steps from…

Seasoned safari-goers have long considered Jack’s the camp of the Kalahari, with its moody tents kitted out with plush ottomans and canopied beds. So when it underwent a massive redo, loyalists were concerned. It’s a risky task, recreating a timeless spot. Thankfully, the new Jack’s retains the soul of the old. New army-green tents contain many familiar elements, like the iconic pink tent lining, but there are upgrades too. The suites, more than double the original size, have larger four-poster beds and red chaise longues from which you might be able to spot the black-maned lions that roam this part of the desert. Jack’s adventurous spirit carries over into the spacious new bar, which doubles as a registered museum for its stash of artifacts, with oversized couches that provide a…

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL BANGKOK AT CHAO PHRAYA RIVER

The plans for Four Seasons’ return to Bangkok (a prior location closed in 2015) predate the body blow that travel took last year, but the Jean-Michel Gathy–designed reincarnation on the banks of the Chao Phraya feels tailored to Bangkok residents anyway. For visitors who have already ticked off the city’s sightseeing hits, it offers serious stayingput appeal: a multitiered swimming pool with thick-cushioned loungers for all-day lingering; vast suites and bedrooms with deep soaking bathtubs; and floor-to-ceiling windows that frame knockout river views. The four restaurants are set for lazy lunches, while the bossa nova–humming BKK Social Club is helmed by Philip Bischoff, formerly of the glitzy bar Manhattan at the Regent Singapore. The contemporary art collection has an urban edge: Towering works depicting the curves of the Chao Phraya…

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL BANGKOK AT CHAO PHRAYA RIVER

You could be forgiven for breezing right past one of France’s most talked-about new hotels. Located in the fishing neighborhood of Les Goudes, which butts up against the Calanques National Park, this is a classic “business in the front, party in the back” scenario; little more than a small sign marks the Tuba Club’s presence. The former scuba diving center once frequented by Jacques Cousteau doesn’t just face the sea, it’s practically in it. Those who come without a swimsuit for a cocktail on the rocks (actual rocks), consider yourself forewarned: You will get splashed. But that’s part of the appeal of this five-cabana hotel opened by a self-described friends collective of design and hospitality vets. There’s a subtle ’70s snorkeling theme throughout: a wooden beaded curtain, rough-hewn ceramic vases…

A number of entrepreneurs have revived or opened restaurants and shops in Beirut’s historic Gemmayzeh district this year, despite its proximity to last August’s devastating port explosion. Among the undeterred is Nabil Debs, who has turned his family’s estate, four restored stone houses overlooking a central courtyard, into a hotel. Cathedral ceilings and original tile floors can be found in all the spacious rooms, each of which is furnished with antique and vintage pieces sourced by Nabil and his wife, Zoe, who have also amassed the world-class art collection displayed throughout. The wrought-iron tables in the courtyard are a gorgeous spot for lazy breakfasts in the sun or long dinners by the pool. When the dishes are cleared, an underground lounge hosts late-night parties, making this self-contained retreat a place…

Imagine Emeline as a very stylish Southern aunt with a penchant for all things retro. She pours stiff drinks, loves jazz, throws killer parties, and enjoys trimming the jasmine in her courtyard. The Makeready hospitality group has modeled this 212-room hotel to make you feel right at home. Right at Emeline’s home, that is—a blend of wicker, velvet, palm-printed wallpaper, and craftsman woodwork. This sophisticated, top-to-bottom redo of an old DoubleTree that used to occupy this prime block above Charleston’s historic open-air market is a departure from the city’s more traditional interpretation of Southern hospitality (no front porch; not a mahogany four-poster in sight). But it’s the little surprises that really make the place sing: working record players in every room, a resident chocolate-truffle chef, a discreet panel leading to…

ROUKH KIRI KHAO YA

Khao Yai, a Hamptons-esque hideout two hours north of Bangkok, is home to a slew of hotels that feel decidedly out of place. With a design brief calling for a “European farmhouse,” newcomer Roukh Kiri could have wound up adding another mismatch. But thankfully, young-gun Thai architecture studio Onion approached the project with an eye toward restraint. Dotted around a hilltop mango orchard, the resort’s 12 villas do have gabled roofs, cobblestone bathroom walls, and even sliding barn doors. But they’re stripped of frills, resulting in a small village of smart houses that deliver raw-linen rusticity and whitewashed minimalism in equal measure. Private sandstone swimming pools lie in gardens that roll into the valley below. Soaking tubs offer a place to unwind after a day spotting wild elephants, while the…

ROUKH KIRI KHAO YA

MONTAGE HEALDSBURG

Northern California’s wine country retreats often model themselves on faraway places; destinations with longer traditions and more Old World gravitas. This is too bad, because their location, between the Pacific and the Mayacamas Mountains, is pure magic, and by this point on the domestic-wine timeline, there’s no need to apologize for who you are. This is why the arrival of Montage’s first property in the region, and Sonoma’s first large-scale luxury resort, is so exciting. It celebrates its own landscape, leaving the 22,000 live oaks in place and pulling a palette of dun and moss from the surrounding sun-soaked vineyards. The resort acknowledges that, as recent wildfires have shown, this is fragile terrain: Its 130 Cali-modern rooms are raised, to disturb the land as little as possible. The restaurant offers…

MONTAGE HEALDSBURG

SINGITA SABORA TENTED CAMP

The fifth camp from luxury outfitter Singita strives to be in tune with what travelers want now. Those familiar with the brand will notice a departure from the usual dramatic look. Here, the decor is understated, placing guests’ focus where it belongs: on the wildlife. The nine khaki canvas tents blend easily into the plains, and your living room is the outdoors; spotting the big predators that roam the 350,000-acre reserve is a special thrill, even after a day’s game drive. Singita, long known for its stellar food, has also reimagined the typical safari approach to dining, forgoing the usual scheduled three square meals for more flexibility, including self-assembled picnics. Sundowners also happen on your time; the on-site sommelier can help you choose the perfect vintage to pair with the…

SINGITA SABORA TENTED CAMP

Designed with stressed-out urbanites in mind, Birch is on a mission to reinvent the members club. It contains a coworking space of sorts but with a pottery studio, beekeeping classes, and glass-blowing workshops. What really sets it apart is that all are welcome; hotel and restaurant guests have access to everything, and there’s no membership rigmarole. Recently unearthed original paintings and tiles at this former Georgian estate share space with newly commissioned murals. The result is some seriously striking interiors, including a wood-paneled drawing room turned cinema with navy-and-white-striped deck chairs. Irish chef Robin Gill, known for London restaurant Bermondsey Larder, among others, is responsible for all things culinary: The Zebra Riding Club’s menu alone brings visitors to Birch. This is a next-generation escape that gets you from East London…

4 Ways to Get a New Lease on Life

Les Sources des Cherverny, the sister property to Bordeaux-based Les Sources de Caudalie, has an equally transportive setting on a wooded estate in the Loire Valley and its own vine-focused spa where grape-seed extract plays a starring role. Overlooking a sweep of bone-white sand, Malaysia’s One&Only Desaru Coast weaves well-being into experiences like tree climbing and silat melayu, a local martial art, and, in a coup for guests, consultations from wellness pioneer Chenot. Set on 185 acres of glorious countryside in Mallorca’s out-of-the-way northeast corner, Es Racó D’Artà makes an art of unplugging and slowing down: There’s no computer at check-in, cell service is unavailable, and kombucha is the fizzy drink of choice. Every moment at the sleek spa hotel Forestis, in a building that was designed to be a sanatorium, is framed…

4 Ways to Get a New Lease on Life

WHITE ELEPHANT PALM BEACH

This tony town has been delivering sun and sea to a distinguished clientele for ages. The result is a stately, often stuffy scene that people both love and love to hate—but are reluctant to change. So this hotel, sister to the White Elephant Nantucket, is doing it for them. At first glance, the 1924 Spanish Revival property, which just emerged from a complete restoration, is classic Palm Beach: terracotta roof tiles, tidy privets. But then the seven-foot-tall white elephant sculpture comes into view. In the lobby, avant-garde coral chandeliers and a huge circular painting of a woman wearing sunglasses shake things up further. Rooms reinterpret the area’s haute-tropical aesthetic, with lots of pattern that Lilly Pulitzer would approve of, but modernized. With outdoor dining at the on-site restaurant, Lola 41,…

WHITE ELEPHANT PALM BEACH

5 Good Reasons to Fly South

Near a palm oasis in Baja Sur’s desert-meets-ocean town of Todos Santos, the 35-suite Paradero Todos Santos is a sorely needed adventure-driven resort in Mexico, offering surf sessions, guided hikes through fields of cacti that end at quiet stretches of sand, and taco tours of the best spots Set atop the coastal cliffs of Riviera Nayarit’s tropical rain forest, the 105 tree houses and Pacific-facing villas at One&Only Mandarina are luxe (every guest has a butler), but the resort also honors its surroundings with local textiles and art in rooms, plus regional dishes at the Enrique Olvera–helmed restaurant With its brutalist-influenced interiors and Italian-inflected restaurant, the 12-room Escondido Oaxaca blew like fresh air into a town that can feel seriously trapped in time, providing a needed modern landing pad for the international…

5 Good Reasons to Fly South

VILLA COPENHAGEN

This is undoubtedly the most significant recent hotel opening in Denmark—maybe in all of Scandinavia. Even before the pandemic, it was a bold move to spend four years and $235 million morphing the former post office headquarters, adjacent to Tivoli Gardens and the Central Station, into a 390-room property with a rooftop pool, an in-house bakery, a restaurant, and bars—and to do so through the lens of conscious hospitality, an approach that keeps the hotel’s environmental and community impact (from its carbon emissions to the diversity of its staff) at the forefront. The redesign preserves the neo-Baroque building’s hefty marble fittings and oak staircases, while the sedate palette of an early-20th-century Danish painter contrasts with quirky happenings, such as a pop-up piercing parlor in the lobby. Perhaps Villa Copenhagen’s greatest…

VILLA COPENHAGEN

LIFE HOUSE LOWER HIGHLANDS

The first hotel in Denver’s hip Lower Highlands neigh-borhood sits quietly on a residential street. It’s easy to mistake the nondescript façade for just another apartment building, but the cement exterior—a nod to the industrialists who built the city—is part of the carefully crafted narrative that’s become a signature of the Life House brand. Inside, the lobby feels like a (lucky) prospector’s Victorian home, with Louis XVI Bergère chairs, velvet drapes, and cowhide throws; the 16 rooms upstairs range from king suites to bunk rooms. Its restaurant, Wildflower, keeps the story going with a menu honoring the neighborhood’s original Italian and Mexican settlers. At the low-lit bar, a young crowd sips old-fashioneds, bringing the story full circle from frontier outpost to modern urban epicenter of cool. Rooms from $189; lifehousehotels.com EAT…

LIFE HOUSE LOWER HIGHLANDS

4 Design Hotels to Travel for

At The Chloe, interiors star Sara Ruffin Costello channels the spirit of New Orleans across a 14-room Victorian gem; there’s a sprawling tiled front porch, lushly appointed parlors, and delightful surprises, like a reading nook behind a trick armoire. In Austin, at Commodore Perry Estate, Auberge Resort Collections’ first city retreat, pattern-loving designer Ken Fulk outfitted this graceful mansion with fox-stenciled wallpaper and wrought-iron doors shaped like peacocks. The façade alone at ME Dubai, a hotel from the late, great Zaha Hadid, is a marvel—an amorphous tower of curving glass. Inside, punchy canvases by Barcelona artist Mr. Dripping nod to the brand’s Spanish roots. Hotel Les Deux Gares in Paris’s Little India is designer Luke Edward Hall’s joyful ode to the city’s past and present: It mixes French antiques with midcentury lighting, checkerboard…

4 Design Hotels to Travel for

THE PIG AT HARLYN BAY

After the early success of the Pig hotels, the soupedup countryside escapes throughout England, founders Robin and Judy Hutson were asked if they had Cornwall in their sights. “Definitely not,” they replied. They have a house in that rugged southwestern county; it would be too close to home. Last summer, however, they unveiled the Pig at Harlyn Bay, just a few miles from their private Cornish retreat. The chance to breathe life into a bewitching mansion proved too irresistible. Interiors are moody yet glamorous; the inky blue reception hall is lined with old world maps, and the bar’s flamboyant House of Hackney wallpaper winks to late-night indulgence. It’s a clever mood board that encourages city slickers to strike up conversations with local walkers. Bedrooms come in all styles: For the…

THE PIG AT HARLYN BAY

HABITAS NAMIBIA

On this 120,000-acre private estate, 15 tented solar-powered suites are scattered across a kopje (a small hill) that overlooks plains of camel-thorn acacias and twisted shepherd trees. Habitas, known for its community-minded retreat in Tulum, effortlessly moves guests’ focus among culture, well-being, and breathtaking natural surroundings. Head ranger Matheus Amunyela and guide Paulus Kambathi sit together in the jeep, taking turns discussing the wildlife, trees, herbs and their traditional uses. Safaris can include stories from Kambathi, a Khwe guide, and Perry Uatokuja, a Himba ranger, as well as healing experiences like a sound bath by a watering hole or yoga where a curious giraffe may wander by. You’ll also find white rhinos, hippos, and zebras; leopards and cheetahs are hard, but not impossible, to spot. The day might end with…

HABITAS NAMIBIA

ZANNIER HOTELS BÃI SAN HÔ

It’s always intriguing when a country’s most exciting new opening is in a destination few travelers have ever heard of. Arnaud Zannier has cornered the market on carving out elegant hotels in unexpected places (Namibia, Cambodia), and he’s done it again in Phú Yên—a quiet stretch of beach a 40-minute drive past shrimp farms and fishing villages from the central Vietnamese city of Quy Nho’n. Like everything the hotelier touches, the super-secluded Bãi San Hô is beautiful: traditional Vietnamese architecture and design with a splash of Mexico thrown in, curated with a sepia-toned elegance. Some of the 71 villas take their visual cues from the Ede ethnic group, like reclaimed wood floors, as well as traditional fishermen’s homes, with deep blue walls that mirror the color of the nearby boats.…

ZANNIER HOTELS BÃI SAN HÔ

This tranquil newcomer’s location on a ho-hum stretch in Los Feliz makes passing through its olive-and-palm-tree-lined courtyard all the more delightful. The name Cara means “friend” in Gaelic, and the idea of warm, convivial hospitality is played up throughout its 60 breezy rooms. The lobby’s custom crown molding, pearlescent plastered walls, and sky-high cove ceilings carry an Old World grandeur that’s mellowed by modern local artwork and plenty of honeyed SoCal sunlight. The outdoor restaurant is perfect for Angelenos’ favorite pastime—alfresco cocktailing—with seating that spills out around a long reflecting pool, creating the feeling of a Moroccan riad. Though the Cara was once a 1950s motel, this is far from the typical flip. The down-to-the-studs renovation expanded rooms to include courtyard-facing balconies, and the decor eschews midcentury nostalgia for a…

5 Places Away From It All

Stitched into the extra-terrestrial backdrop of Utah’s Grand Staircase-Escalante, the 10 tented pavilions at Camp Sarika by Amangiri are oasislike escapes with plunge pools and porches for stargazing. Views from the openair jungle sanctuary Cielo Lodge look over Costa Rica’s Corcovado National Park and the Pacific, meaning there is always something to catch your eye from the terrace of any of the six suites. Estancia La Madrugada, a lovingly restored Argentine country home that is 90 minutes from Buenos Aires, has everything you’d want in a dressed-up gaucho stay: horse trails, hikes, and Malbecs at sunset. The design-forward Lake House on Canandaigua, built on the site of a bygone upstate New York fave hotel, offers access to the toniest and most tranquil of the Finger Lakes and its stellar food and wine scenes. Located…

5 Places Away From It All

The glitzy town of Hvar, on the Croatian island of the same name, isn’t exactly a new discovery as far as Euro hot spots go. But the UNESCO-protected Stari Grad (Old Town) is still low-key; just a short walk from the Maslina Resort, it’s a classy antidote to its high-wattage sibling, now overrun by yachters. Blend quietly polished design with a laid-back Mediterranean attitude and you get this 50-room hideout, distinguished by the larch-wood façade of its main pavilion that rises from one of the Aleppo pine forests that edge the Adriatic. Rooms highlight local stone from nearby Bra? island, and tawny iroko wood and brushed-brass fixtures pop against a mellow palette of grays and greens, bringing the tones and textures of the surrounding rocky coastline, olive trees, and sage…

URBAN COWBOY LODGE

Turns out, gathering around the campfire hasn’t gone the way of the hotel business center—at least not at Urban Cowboy Lodge. Set on a 68-acre tract in the Catskills, with a cluster of wooden buildings that fan out neatly atop a hill, the hotel looks and sometimes feels like a summer camp. It’s an apt comparison when you consider its merrily irreverent staff and adult-friendly, join-if-you-want-to, fine-if-you-don’t approach to programming, which ranges from fireside rounds of reggae bingo in the antler-bedecked common area to morning hikes and piano nights on the baby grand. The ethos extends to the decor, which includes vintage sports equipment bolted to the walls and a riot of Native American–inspired prints that cover everything from the couch cushions to the wallpaper. It’s the first rural foray…

URBAN COWBOY LODGE

When Edith Wharton moved to the Berkshire Mountains at the turn of the last century, she framed her departure from city life as a personal liberation. In her autobiography, amid ecstatic descriptions of the gorgeous scenery she found in western Massachusetts, she wrote that she had “at last escaped from watering-place trivialities to the real country.” Wharton was 40 years old when she left the society circles of Manhattan and the “flat frivolity” of Newport, Rhode Island, where she had a summer home, for 100-plus acres of rolling farmland just outside the village of Lenox. It was her attempt to forge a second act, a more enriching and affirming writer’s life. Still, she wasn’t exactly roughing it in the country. She designed and erected a stately 35-room white stucco mansion…

as the world turns

The two most important events in Europe in the 20th century, it can be argued,” Michał Maj said, “happened here in Gdańsk.” I was in his kitchen in BrzeŹno, a seaside neighborhood north of the city center. An empty bottle of wine sat on the table alongside another I’d just opened. It was 3 a.m., deep in winter. Everything was closed due to the pandemic, and Michał, who usually works as a guide, was feeding and housing me in the typically hospitable manner of Poles. He’d been taking me through the twists and turns of Gdańsk’s history for five hours, and we’d just stepped into the 20th century. In case you’re wondering, I was utterly captivated. The first important event took place on September 1, 1939, when the battleship Schleswig-Holstein maneuvered…

as the world turns

through the looking glass

THESE DAYS when I get tired of the overfamiliar walls of my overfamiliar room, I treat myself to a brief world tour. I watch as a shepherd affectionately scolds his flock in Ireland. In Morocco, a teenage fashionista styles her hijab in a new way. In Guatemala, an elderly woman and her granddaughter shake their hips to a cumbia song. In Nigeria, a man pranks his parents—again. I may not be leaving my house much these days, but thanks to TikTok, I can catch glimpses of the wider world. I’m one of the many people who have become addicted to the app over the past year. TikTok’s popularity, which has rivaled even Zoom, isn’t surprising; it’s engineered for entertainment and escapism, two things we all needed more of in 2020. Unlike…

through the looking glass

straight from the source

When I bought and renovated my house in the Fès medina in 2009, everyone asked me where I sourced my interiors. A bit guiltily, I’d confess: Marrakech. Fès may be the city of artisans, but Marrakech has always been the real jewel when it comes to shopping. My midcentury-modern-style kitchen chairs came from a no-name stall on a dusky little square near the now rather chic Souk Cherifia; my bold cream, orange, green, and black striped curtains from the tiniest hole-in-the-wall near the Palais Bahia specializing in antique African cloth. I used to scour the souk at Bab el Khemis—still Morocco’s most fruitful flea market—for vintage lamps and bigger pieces to get reupholstered or sprayed with automotive paint (the design hack of the day). If you can dream it, you can…

straight from the source

SAMUEL AND CAITLIN DOWE-SANDES The husband-and-wife team first came to Marrakech from L.A. on a yearlong sabbatical from their careers in film and P.R. but ended up buying and renovating a house in the medina. “We’d never seen the crafts of Morocco,” Caitlin Dowe-Sandes recalls, “but gradually we started to get to know the makers, and when it came time to replace the tiles in the house we thought maybe we could apply our own designs to the technique.” Three early patterns—which they dubbed loop, wink, and zigzag—were striking enough that a friend asked if they’d be open to doing a magazine shoot. When the fact-checker called to ask whom to credit for the tiles, the duo hurriedly set up a company and a website to coincide with publication, and Popham…

MERIEM NOUR Tucked away in Riad Zitoun’s dusty alleyways, Meriem Nour’s Hanout Boutique gleams. The 200-year-old showroom has been painted a cool white and outfitted with filigreed plaster arches with racks of loosely tailored two-piece suits in graphic stripes, kimono-inspired dresses in Warhol-ish power florals, and intricately embroidered leather jackets. The youngest of five girls in a family who all worked in Moroccan fashion, Nour studied at Central Saint Martins, where she ended up designing a range of caftans for Selfridges. But her heart was always back home in Marrakech. During lockdown, she used the time to turn the immense stock of fabrics she has collected from around the world into pieces she was passionate about—with big volumes, architectural cuts, frilly collars—finished with traditional Moroccan embellishments. In the process she’s brought…

Actor LOLLY ADEFOPE on BUDAPEST

When I was younger and went on holiday with my family, I’d be almost agoraphobic. I would just want to be on my Game Boy and not speak to anyone. I was a city girl, perhaps subconsciously aware that I was ‘traveling while Black,’ which made me anxious about exploring a new place. When I first started traveling for work, I was the same—and I would think, I’m in a great hotel: Why not just stay in and enjoy it? And I’d justify the decision to myself. Then, in the summer of 2017, I was in Budapest filming my first movie, The Spy Who Dumped Me, and it was like a reckoning. There were these little windy streets and bars everywhere, and it was balmy and vibrant, even at 3…

Actor LOLLY ADEFOPE on BUDAPEST

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