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14 Articles

The Editor’s Letter

And does it seem possible now, with news of a vaccine, that we can look toward the dawn of a new day? I sincerely hope so. There is not a trip I have not researched, a train I am not interested in, an adventure I cannot smell in the breeze. Imagine a bedroom that is not your own. The delicious allure of it. With good timing, this Gold List issue swings in. I’ve always had a soft spot for it because it’s when our editors around the world pull off their gloves and—away from the pressure to subscribe to certain criteria—simply nominate their favorite hotels. But this issue also focuses on community, the importance of it, the celebration of it, and the empowerment of it. So here is an additional…

The Editor’s Letter

The Future Is Bright

If you’re like me, you’ve been crossing your fingers and praying that the new year will be better than the one we’ve just survived. Of course that begins with defeating the coronavirus and protecting human life. But here are a couple of other ways I’m hoping 2021 can be an improvement on 2020. Number one, I’m hoping we can get back to exploring the four corners of the earth. And number two, I’m hoping we can be a little kinder to one another, no matter how much we might disagree. Number one and number two are connected. We completed this issue near the end of a year marked not just by the pandemic but also by even more rancor than usual, culminating in the contentious election that took place just as…

The Future Is Bright

Get Up, Stand Up

When a devastating explosion tore through the Lebanese capital last summer, the city’s independent artists and designers, whose jewel box shops and busy studios fill the neighborhoods closest to the blast zone, were among those particularly impacted. For the country it was the latest tragedy in a year already marked by the pandemic and a collapsed economy. “As a community, we felt like we’d all been hit together,” says designer Tatiana Fayad, a cofounder of the high-fashion women’s brand Vanina (vanina.me), whose store in the bohemian enclave of Gemmayzeh was heavily damaged. The network of designers, many of whom have been friendly for years, have always tried to bolster one another in the absence of more formal support, says Fayad. “We don’t have organizations that help us or teach us how…

Get Up, Stand Up

Old Town, New Energy

Meryanne Loum-Martin Owner, Jnane Tamsna hotel, Marrakech “Being a child of the African diaspora, I am in awe of the extraordinary creativity that comes from our community here in Marrakech,” says Loum-Martin, whose boutique hotel is a preferred hideaway for artists and writers in the Palmeraie, a sprawling oasis at the city’s northern edge. Though the Paris native, who is Morocco’s sole Black female hotelier, admits it can be hard to peel herself away from the property, she has spent the past 25 years getting to know the city. Here, she shares her ideal itinerary, including the art galleries—and nightcaps—worth scouting out. Mornings in the medina “After breakfast, which I always have under the sun in the hotel gardens, I’ll head down to the medina. Even now I experience it with the…

Old Town, New Energy

Vive La Révolution

In France, the artisanal trades of bread baking and haute pâtisserie—like the rest of the country’s culinary scene—have historically been dominated by men. Nicolas Stohrer, King Louis XV’s pastry chef and the founder of the oldest pastry shop in Paris, along with Marie-Antoine Carême, the onetime chef to the royal court, set the course in the 18th century by inventing everything from profiteroles to the boozy baba au rhum. The generations of male bakers that followed often credited their mères and grands-mères as inspiration for their careers, but women have otherwise been footnotes at best. No longer: Entrepreneurial women now run many of the capital’s most beloved sweets destinations. Julie Mathieu, co-owner and founding editor of Fou de Pâtisserie, a pastry concept shop and France’s leading baking magazine, says the recent proliferation…

Vive La Révolution

The guide clicks his fingers. After three days of walking with Mpatinga Ole Nkuito, I know he is signaling a warning. We look up to see a bull elephant 50 feet away, striding through the spiny grass in search of a mate. “If he smells us, we’re in big trouble,” whispers Roelof Schutte, my other guide. It’s unmistakable, from the secretion that trickles down the side of the bull’s head, that he’s in musth—which means he’s aggressive and hormonal. We stop dead, shoulders pinched to our ears. I’ve seen animals in musth before, but on foot it’s infinitely more hair-raising. Schutte shakes his wind checker, a cylindrical brass container that releases baby powder, to establish which way the wind is blowing. The creature can’t see us, but one shift in…

Beneath his easy demeanor and Hollywood smile, the mayor of Aspen is a worried man. He knows how this pretty mountain town once collapsed along with the silver-mining industry. Now he’s frightened about the loss of an equally valuable resource. “Our snow is running out,” says Torre (like regular Aspen-goer Rihanna, he goes by just one name). “That’s a major problem when you’re a ski resort.” The numbers are, frankly, alarming. Aspen already gets a month less of skiing than it did in the 1940s, with snow levels across Colorado having receded by 20 to 60 percent. If drastic action isn’t taken, the Environmental Protection Agency warns that the standard ski season will be halved by 2050. “We have to keep shouting this message from the mountaintops in order to preserve…

I’m dipping day-old bread into spicy hummus made of leftover cauliflower at Garveriet, a former tannery on the woodsy River Säveån, several miles outside of Gothenburg. It’s one of the area’s many converted industrial spaces, in this case to a zero-waste café, brewery, and event hub. It’s raining, as it often does in Sweden’s Seattle, and upstairs a gang of Ikea employees await their fika (coffee break) during a workshop on sustainable management. To some the scene might sound like a Dickensian punishment. But for travelers like me who’ve made sustainability a priority, this is mecca. I arrived in Gothenburg on the same overcast October day that the city won the prestigious European Capital of Smart Tourism award. Like its sister green metropolises Copenhagen and Zurich, this port on Sweden’s scenic…

Slow and Steady

It was a hot, bright afternoon in the Place Where the Sky Is Born. This is one of several translations of the Maya phrase Sian Ka’an, the name for a 1,080-square-mile biosphere reserve on the Caribbean coast of Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula. A gentle current pulled me west down an ancient canal to the sea. The water was crystalline and just cool enough to be refreshing as I drifted past a centuries-old Mayan customhouse and the high white arcades of mangrove roots, convenient perches for darting purple martins, gray crowned cranes, and pink bromeliads with their spiky fronds. It was nearly silent despite the fact that Tulum, a once-sleepy town that has struggled in recent years to navigate the challenges brought on by mass tourism, sat barely 40 miles to the north.…

Slow and Steady

the gold list 2021

For the full Gold List, visit cntraveler.com/the-bests/gold-list CASCAIS, PORTUGAL The Albatroz Hotel Although once a whitewashed fishing village, Cascais long ago swapped that simple existence for tangible glamour. Among imposing 19th-century villas where grand European families sought out a cool breeze to escape the hot summer lies the much loved Albatroz, a constant in a shifting seascape. Since opening as an inn in the 1960s, it has blossomed to become one of the first five-stars in town. Its buildings jut out on a rocky promontory, close enough for the sound of pounding waves to weave through any pillow talk, with Conceição Beach just steps away. Inside there is an enduring sense of elegance, a hint of mystery from the war era when spies filled the salons. A 21st-century freshness has been added by…

the gold list 2021

sunshine daydream

More than most places, Mallorca means different things to different people. For many the Spanish island is synonymous with the endless trinity of sun, sea, and sangria, since it virtually invented European beach tourism in the early 20th century. In 1929, Gertrude Stein wrote to her war-traumatized friend the novelist Robert Graves, recommending Mallorca as the perfect place to downshift and de-stress. (“It’s paradise,” she suggested, adding the biting qualifier, “if you can stand it.”) But as the popularity of the island soared, its culture became ever more marginal. Traditional farming and cooking almost withered on the vine. (The vines themselves also withered, as ancient grape varieties including Manto Negro and Callet were pushed aside to make way for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.) When I first came here, in the 1980s,…

sunshine daydream

in August 2020, in the middle of lockdown, Costa Rica announced its 30th national park. The former prison island of San Lucas, off Puntarenas on the Pacific coast, is a haven for howler monkeys, bats, spiders, snakes, deer, pheasants, hammerhead sharks, manta rays, and sea turtles, and now will be one as well for hikers and history buffs eager to learn about the Alcatraz of Central America. This news was a powerful reminder that the planet remains a chief priority, above and beyond the pandemic, and of the country’s single-minded commitment to protect its natural environments—for its own sake and to mitigate against climate change. Ecotourism has played a lead role in this, helping fund the preservation of the ethereal cloud forests of Monteverde and the remote jungles of the Osa…

catch the drift

there’s something almost religious about the start of the Bold and Beautiful swim, from the Manly Life Saving Club to Shelley Beach, about half a mile around the rocky coast, and back again. Every morning at seven o’clock, a hundred or so people of all ages wade into the water in bright pink swim caps and Speedos, like budgie-smuggler Baptists. At a distance they resemble the cast-iron figures of British sculptor Antony Gormley, barely distinguishable from one another, looking to the water for answers. My sister lives in Manly, a beachy suburb on a peninsula at the southern end of Sydney’s Northern Beaches. I’ve been coming for 20 years, doing the odd Bold and Beautiful swim since it started with five people on Boxing Day in 2008. Today, more than 17,000…

catch the drift

Actor Andrew Rannells on Warsaw

“My mother’s side of the family is Polish, but neither she nor my grandmother had ever been to Poland. I felt like if I ever had the opportunity to see where we were from, I should take it. So one summer, when I was 24, I strong-armed my friend Zuzanna, a Warsaw native who was then attending grad school in Moscow, into bringing me home with her. We stayed with her grandparents, who lived in this very bleak Soviet-style building, in what turned out to be a lovely apartment. I was struck by their hospitality—they rolled out quite a welcome for somebody they had never met before. When we first arrived, they served us a tomato-based soup that had some meat in it, and I was so jet-lagged I ate…

Actor Andrew Rannells on Warsaw

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