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GQ Style United Kingdom Issue 23 (Digital)

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Tom Ford Tom Ford not only directed Jake Gyllenhaal in his forthcoming film Nocturnal Animals, he also interviewed him exclusively for us. Together they discuss the art of screenwriting, the representation of masculinity in contemporary cinema, and how to get in shape for the red carpet. I interviewed the actor Dominic West for this issue. We met in his local pub in Shepherd’s Bush (or ‘Nappy Valley’, as he likes to call it). It was fun. There was a lot of laughing and some outrageous – sadly unprintable – stories. I shot the Footballer story and also the Jake Gyllenhaal cover story. Both fantastic! Jake brought his German Shepard dog called Leo on set who relaxed him – he’s quite shy. He was also really down to earth and interesting to talk to. I…

EDITOR'S LETTER

We champion the essence of masculinity in this issue of GQ Style: being handsome, muscular and driven. First off we have the man who defined the masculine, sexually driven fashion of the Nineties, Tom Ford, interviewing Jake Gyllenhaal, a man who once asked, 'Do you think masculinity lacks sensitivity?' before going on to prove that it doesn't. If s not only his good looks, but also his manliness, intelligence, dedication and, yes, sensitivity that make Jake Gyllenhaal the leading man of our generation. His starring role in the forthcoming thriller written and directed by Ford, Nocturnal Animals, is the topic of their exclusive conversation for our cover story, Jake. Meanwhile a home-grown acting talent - the charming, rugged and unapologetic Dominic West - divulges everything from his thrusting dalliance with the…

EDITOR'S LETTER

Time to zip your embroidered tracksuit halfway up, change into a lighter shade of sunglasses, and look upon… the greatest season of the year. It’s a jungle out there and here comes everything you’ll want to shop for, talk about, lust after, obsess over. Ready? What’s in your private bag, with all its hidden pockets and compartments? A gentleman never tells. It might be full of secrets: forbidden books, incriminating photographs, strangers’ underpants, vibrating toys, some really weird things. But when your private bag looks this elegant – Giorgio Armani, luxurious brown crocodile, centimetre-thick hand-painted piping – then your public self will be absolutely irresistible. The BAG Photography Toby McFarlan Pond Styling Sophie Clark Photo assistant Hannah Rose Digital technicians Paul Allister and Andy Mackie Set designer Thomas Petherick at CLM Prop assistants Sylvie…

Church’ Take me to Church’ Founded in 1873, British footwear brand Church’s has long been a byword for the holy trinity of luxury, quality and elegance. And the apparition of this sleek and stylish oxblood leather brogue in the new collection proves that no matter how much you’ve sinned (or coveted your neighbour’s house, or his wife, or his donkey) lately, you can still be saved by great, richly coloured shoes. (Warning: wearing these will cause pride and envy.) church-footwear.com Clinique Wet wet wet With nods to Seventies-era Roxy Music and just the right amount of sleaze, this wet-look, brushed-back style is the slickest way to wear collar-length hair right now (or style out an overdue haircut) with a soaking of gel, glycerin, avocado oil, or even just bottles and bottles of Evian. But –…

Written in the Stars

Vic Mensa straddles the confluence of pop stardom, political activism and fashion icon like nobody else in the world. A rapper from the South Side of Chicago (that’s why he has ‘South Side’ tattooed on his neck), Vic was born in 1993 and has nearly died twice (that’s why he has ‘1993’ and ‘Still Alive’ tattooed on his chest), and is managed by Scooter Braun (that’s why he’s just come off a tour of Europe with Justin Bieber) and Jay-Z’s Roc Nation (that’s why he has ‘Roc Nation’ tattooed on his neck also). He’s a man who wears his heart on his sleeve. He has a red Trump hat that says ‘Make Racists Afraid Again’ and a pair of jeans with the slogan ‘Burn The Trump’ repeated over and over.…

Written in the Stars

Top of the Shops

Gladstone London Leaders of the pack Cool pop-up alert: premium British accessory label Gladstone will be opening a pop-up store in the lobby of one of London’s most iconic hotels, the COMO Metropolitan on Park Lane, selling all the soft calfskin leather messenger bags, backpacks and unisex clutches a sophisticated traveller could ever need. Now you can pick up a perfect carry-on from Gladstone, some cod cheek tempura from Nobu, and celebrate with a dirty martini from the Met Bar – all without ever having to leave your hotel. 19 Old Park Lane, London W1 Breuer & Dawson We do like to buy beside the seaside If you’re in the market for a slice of vintage style, then this gem on the Kent coast is a must-visit. With 20 years’ experience at Portobello and Camden,…

Top of the Shops

The Eye Of The Tiger

It was when Kenzo Takada came to Paris in 1969, after touring 11 different countries, that he felt he had finally landed. Armed with an international perspective and an idea to paint an imitation of Henri Rousseau’s infamous tiger (the big cat that would later be used as the Kenzo logo and become synonymous with the brand), he opened up shop and began his mission to create clothes for ‘everyday people’. Those ‘everyday people’ just so happened to be best friends Grace Jones and Jerry Hall, who began donning his denim jackets and zebra-print all-in-ones, and those said ‘everyday people’ would walk into fittings at Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent championing the young Japanese designer. Chimes of ‘Who is this Kenzo guy?’ followed and it wasn’t long before that Kenzo…

The Eye Of The Tiger

The Biggest Splash

In July 2017, David Hockney will join the octogenarian club, so there is no better time to look back at his incredible career. A painter, photographer, conscientious objector, printmaker, videographer, set designer and eccentric fashion icon (Christopher Bailey cited him as inspiration behind Burberry’s SS05 and SS14 menswear collections, and he was voted as one of GQ’s top 50 most stylish men of the past 50 years), there are few cultural figures who can boast such a consistent yet diverse oeuvre. And to further solidify Hockney’s position as a seminal figure of British contemporary art, Tate Britain – the site where David first saw the 1960 Picasso exhibition that so enthralled him as a student – has announced the world’s most extensive retrospective of his art, presenting a body of work…

The Biggest Splash

What really sets this Prada shoe apart is its many interesting, unusual details: the thick golden buckle, tongue-fringing held down by a single black shoelace, those four lanes of parallel stitching that parabola around the tip, the softer hints of tan at its extremities. It’s a masterpiece of details. It’s many weird shoes combined into one Milanese symphony. Photo assistant Hannah Rose Digital technicians Paul Allister and Andy Mackie Set designer Thomas Petherick at CLM Prop assistants Sylvie Macmillan and Josh Thompson Production KO Productions…

Hail the New Massiah

I had a dream in which another man and i kissed twisted tongues, bit our lips hands up shirts hips on hips and i didn’t resist pull back or quit until i was hit misjudged punched kicked in the back of my head stamped on till i was dead but now i’m awake and now i’m straight back to reality London-born poet James Massiah had a love of language instilled in him from an early age. As a young Christian attending church in Balham, he was encouraged to memorise Bible verses and write sermons. Meanwhile, older friends were taping UK garage sets from pirate radio, which James would listen to with great intent and then head back to the playground to perform. It’s not difficult to see both of these influences…

Hail the New Massiah

Music is exciting to us. We never came at this from the point of view of, “How do we construct a business?” It wasn’t about having success, it was more, “What do we want to do today that is interesting?” If we found an artist that we loved and no one else would like, we would still sign them,’ offers former drama teacher Geoff Travis, who opened the first Rough Trade store in Ladbroke Grove in 1976 and founded the label (and independent British music institution) Rough Trade Records in 1978. Today he is accompanied by label co-owner Jeannette Lee at their discreet and minimalistic West London headquarters, and the pair are apologetic about their dislike of interviews, but their roster speaks for itself: Jarvis Cocker, The Libertines, The Smiths,…

Take It On The Chin

Extraordinarily, the male patient is still rather rare and most of us practitioners are still learning what makes a man look more manly and attractive. The science of beauty has evolved to a point where we now measure and divide up the face into proportions. For instance, a man’s chin width should be similar to the width of the lips. We use a 3D camera to show deficits and excess – one would add or subtract where necessary to achieve the perfect proportions. Just as you can work out your body, you can also work out your face. Below I have worked on explaining how to treat the male face with the best possible non-invasive options for enhancing and sculpting the chin and jaw line for a more masculine and attractive look.…

Take It On The Chin

Liam Hodges What’s good, Liam? YO! Who is the Liam Hodges man, where does he hang out? What does he drink? The lads we used in the show are him, and I think anyone who can see a bit of themselves or relate to something in the casting is our guy. He’s a bit off-key – I don’t see it being about one type of guy or a perfect image, but a range of characters, and you see it come to life backstage. All these lads we got together through Troy and Mischa (TM Casting). Some know each other, some don’t, some of ’em have never walked a catwalk show before, but they all hyped backstage, having fun, dancing around. Once it’s over, straight to the pub for a couple of pints and then…

Jimi Hendrix has long been one of Liam Gallagher’s idols, so it’s very fitting that Pretty Green should release a line dedicated to him. But then Liam’s not the only British rock star to have been wowed by one of the greatest guitarists ever. On 23 September 1966 – exactly 50 years ago – a more-or-less unknown Jimi Hendrix jumped on a plane to London with an electric guitar, $40 (borrowed on the way to the airport), some clothes, some acne medication and his hair curlers. He landed the morning after, he jammed blues with the house band at rock’n’roll hangout Scotch of St James that night, word of his extraordinary talent, not to mention sex appeal, got around and within a few weeks he had formed a band: The…

Copy That A witty retake on iconic brands? Logo on, then Taking inspiration from Oscar Wilde’s maxim that ‘talent borrows, genius steals’, south London-based brand OiBoy is bringing the sharpest satirical edge to fashion’s bootlegging trend. The brainchild of George Langham and Dylan Hartigan, the label’s arch re-workings of household names on tees, such as its geezer-chic ‘Darling’ play on the Carling lager logo and its ‘Brokelads’ anagram of Ladbrokes, are beautifully clever yet simple and stark. ‘Without trying to sound too cliché, growing up in south London around opportunists in all senses of the word, with sadly not much opportunity or sense, but with humour and a healthy competitiveness, looking back it’s the logical and natural path that we’ve found ourselves bootlegging with, hopefully, a humorous twist,’ says Langham of OiBoy’s…

Eyes on the prize

It’s the 20th anniversary and 11th edition of the HUGO BOSS Prize – judged on excellence and nothing else – and one of these six artists will receive $100,000 cash and a victory-lap exhibition around the spiral atrium of the Guggenheim, New York. So in case you fancy a flutter before the winner is announced in October, here’s our guide to the contenders and our odds on them winning. Anicka Yi A New Yorker originally from Seoul, Anicka Yi makes worlds within worlds out of strange materials you’ll want to sniff, or lick or even try on: black tea, kombucha scoby leather, dried shrimp, beeswax, hydrogel beads, socks. With her turquoise hair, she looks like a mad scientist making pop-biological experiments inside bubbles, glass boxes and giant cooking pots. Odds of winning: 5/2…

Eyes on the prize

The Sartorialists

Neapolitan 007, if you will. Or, in the words of Stefano Gabbana, ‘Salvatore Bond’ By dint of its very nature, fashion doesn’t just have a sense of impermanence, it has built-in obsolescence. However, the very fact that it is in a constant state of flux offers some kind of security, so while it is ever changing, the fashion world is a byword for stability and a bivouac for those who like their revolutions to be completely manageable. We like novelty, but we put our trust in brands. At the moment, though, the industry as we know it is going through a serious period of disruption, one it has never known before. Why? Well, the process of showing clothes to the industry and then the consumer used to be quite simple, and until…

The Sartorialists

We all know the feeling: you’re searching for the perfect pair of shoes and you can picture exactly what you want yet no matter where you go you, no matter how many shops you try, you just can’t find exactly what you’re looking for. Perhaps you want a pair of brogues that exactly correspond to the details of a suit, or some Chelsea boots that reflect some unique facet of your individual style. Finally, a solution may be at hand. It’s an answer to the prayers of men of rarefied and highly specific taste and it’s called Undandy, a new bespoke handmade footwear brand for men which has recently launched in the UK. The world is full of men trying to find a tribe, or a quiet place to fit…

So the glittering night-time celebrities and cellar stages made Munich a new capital of pleasure, lending a smoky charisma to the city – and this small window of time cleared the room for other areas of creativity and fashionable society to bloom. In 1976, while Summer and Moroder were inventing the sort of electronic 4/4 disco that would lead to house, MCM founder Michael Cromer was introducing a small collection of smart matching suitcases and bags for Munich’s glamorous visitors to travel with, and thus the MCM phenomenon began (initially, the initials represented Michael Cromer München). The brand’s message of travelling in style proved to be infectious and it eventually opened more than 200 boutiques worldwide. But over the years, as it passed through a variety of owners, it seemed…

Welcome to Pleinland

This is where the magic happens,’ says Philipp Plein as we step into his downstairs kitchen, echoing the immortal catchphrase of MTV’s Cribs. Sure, he was meant to save it for the boudoir, but in a mansion where slogans such as ‘Kiss me like you love me! Fuck me like you hate me!’ are casually embedded in the poolside walls, what difference does it make? This is La Jungle du Roi, the illustrious designer’s sprawling world-withinthe-world nestled in the hills of Cannes, a dream house for a workaholic hedonist. When he takes up residence, he imports his entire design team from Lugano and puts them up there, with daily massages and candlelight suppers. By the pool, his pin-up girlfriend is soaking up the sun in a skimpy bikini. Sometimes he…

Welcome to Pleinland

Court of appeal

As a young man in Long Island in the early Eighties, sneaker designer Jon Buscemi found himself with a front row seat to a cultural revolution. ‘I was really lucky to grow up in a suburb of New York City where you really had worlds colliding in the art scene, the graffiti scene and the hip-hop and punk rock music scenes,’ he says. ‘Every culture had their sneakers, from the head-bangers and the rockers to the reggae guys and the hip-hop girls. I was influenced by not only street fashion but also the luxury side too. We had a local Army Navy store and then we also had a Gucci shop. There was this meeting of high and low, but the most important piece of your outfit, always, was your…

Court of appeal

Modern classics

1. Rado The HyperChrome range was inspired by vintage Rado models and now comes in over 70 models. For us, less is more and we love this pared-back ceramic and steel version. 2. Bell & Ross 2. Bell & Ross For a brand steeped in the history of flying, it is fitting that the Vintage BR range by Bell & Ross is modelled on aviator watches of the Forties, when the sky was the limit for design. 3. Audemars Piguet The Royal Oak has always pushed the design envelope, but this new double-balance wheel version is just as impressive technically. Indeed, it’s a world first and the openworked face means the beauty is more than skin deep. 4. Ball The Trainmaster series is based on Ball’s history as a standard timekeeper for the US railroad. But, just…

Modern classics

IN ASSOCIATION WITH TIFFANY&CO. The ring leaders Darren Barker, 34, and Ryan Pickard, 30, gym owners Darren and Ryan met in the East End’s renowned Repton Boxing Club as kids, became sparring partners, and fought for club and country; Darren became world champion (now retired) and Ryan is club captain of Repton. Now they’re opening two London gyms, 12x3, to teach the circuit-training techniques boxers use to get incredibly fit. ‘There’s a Repton slogan we’re going to use,’ says Ryan. “‘No guts no glory”. If you don’t have the courage to try, you’ll never succeed.’ The visionary Michael Mayren, 31, model agent and photographer Since he set up his model agency, Brother (which represents all the men – and one woman – in our tailoring shoot this issue), in Manchester this spring, Michael Mayren has been…

Time Management

Nicola Andreatta, 43, is not afraid of a challenge. When, in 2013, he became the vice president and general manager of Tiffany & Co’s watch division – lured away from NOA, the watch company he himself founded in 2004 – he took on one of the most prestigious roles in the industry, and also one of its biggest challenges: relaunching Tiffany watchmaking and restoring its golden age, which dates back 169 years to a decade after the company was founded in 1837. So far, he has explored the company’s extraordinarily rich archives outside New York, opened an all-new watchmaking headquarters in Ticino, in the sunniest part of Switzerland, flown around the world many, many times, and launched three brilliant men’s collections (available only in Tiffany & Co’s 310 stores worldwide…

Time Management

Jake Gyllenhaal is not just an Oscar-nominated actor with a legendary work ethic and a drop-dead smile. He is also a Jewish boy from LA, a Swedish nobleman, godson of Paul Newman, has studied Buddhism at Columbia with Robert Thurman, and is known for transforming himself physically and emotionally for his roles. Tom Ford is not just a fashion designer and film director, he is a 21st-century Renaissance man. After revolutionising fashion, he moved effortlessly into film with unprecedented success: his first film, ‘A Single Man’, was nominated for a raft of awards including the Best Actor Oscar nomination for lead Colin Firth. Now the two have teamed up for Mr Ford’s sophomore feature, ‘Nocturnal Animals’, with Jake Gyllenhaal taking the dual role of Edward Sheffield, a writer, and Tony…

Groomer Matt Mulhall at Streeters Model Jack Tyerman at IMG Photo assistants Teddy Park and Lewis Hayward Stylist’s assistants Emily Tighe and Emily Tredinnick Digital technician Philipp Paulus Production KO Productions Casting Paul Issac Lighting 123 Lighting Location Margate With thanks to Thanet Council and Margate FC…

Jones often sets himself the task in his designs of making the silly into the sublime, and vice versa. He delights in puncturing the sense of French haut-bourgeois luxury to be found at Vuitton with a certain English punk attitude Every passion borders on the chaotic,’ said Walter Benjamin. ‘But the collector’s passion borders on the chaos of memories.’ Looking around the interior of Kim Jones’ Paris apartment, never was that statement more accurate. Carefully organised and yet temporally in disarray, this place, just off the storied Place des Victoires, betrays an alternate history – and a particularly British one at that. In the designer’s bedroom hang rare McLaren and Westwood Anarchy Shirts from 1976 – ‘The Revolutionaries Are Pretty’ reads one; ‘Only Anarchists Are Pretty’ says another in a seeming…

‘ I know the Kama Sutra backwards. I’ve gotten very good at the technical names. We’ve done it up against the wall, we’ve done it against every piece of furniture, we’ve done it upside down…’ Dominic West seems to be in the mood for confessions. ‘I know the Kama Sutra backwards,’ he says. ‘I’ve gotten very good at all the technical names.’ Just to clarify: the 46-year-old actor is not boasting about his bedroom prowess; he’s reeling off the Herculean tally of positions he’s filmed for the hit US series The Affair. ‘It’s got ludicrous now,’ he continues, ‘we shout for suggestions from members of the crew. I remember last season we shouted out, “We’ve done it up against the wall, we’ve done it against every piece of furniture, we’ve done…

On the veranda of Christian Dior’s childhood home atop a cliff in Granville, Kris Van Assche is scrupulously studying an antique hemp sack. Unlike the founder of the fashion house he fronts, he’s just insisted he’s not superstitious – but now something’s got him. The relic belonged to the fertiliser company that made Dior’s father rich at the turn of the century and bears their eminent French surname alongside a crest of lions with the words, ‘L’Union fait la force’ – the motto of Kris’s native Belgium. ‘I have a sign now! That I cannot believe,’ he erupts, mystified. ‘It’s the Belgian flag and lion. I’m starting to get superstitious. Ask me if I ever found a million dollars!’ In his 14 years at Dior Homme – four on the…

The industry needs to hurry up and get engaged, as the consumer is running out the door. It was 30 years ago, almost to the day. I had been hired by one of those advertising agencies that are meant to know better, to sprinkle some fairy dust over a project they were creating for a big US beer brand who were having a push in the UK. The first meeting went fairly well, as they appeared to be in thrall to the particular part of the creative sector I was representing. By which I mean that they seemed as though they were taking me seriously. I was editing a not-uninfluential style magazine at the time, and I had already lost count of the number of chancers from the advertising industry who had…

Groomer Michael Harding Models Lyndon, Samuel, Danny, Ayoub, Daniel, Ruben, JP, Sy, Josh, Tim, Ben, Alex and Rae at Brother Models, Photo assistant Willow Williams Stylist’s assistant Ollie Sharp Groomer’s assistant Sammie Kerr Digital technician Robert Billington, Production KO Productions Videographer Ben Rose Lighting Photolink Studios and 123 Lighting Location Photolink Studios With thanks to Brother Model Agency…

Soc ial Climber

Groomer Louis Ghewy at The Book Agency Models Felix Sueur at 16 Men and Karlis Leiboms at Bro Models Photo assistant Jim Tobias Johnston Stylist’s assistant Angelo Mitakos Set designer William Farr Casting director Shelley Durkan Production KO Productions Set designer’s assistant Jack Appleyard Lighting Film Plus Locations 63 Sun Studio N1 and Powerscroft Studio E5…

Soc ial Climber

BLED RIGHT N TRUE

Tony Bellew, 33 Cruiserweight Fights 30, KOs 17 Callum Smith, 26 Super middleweight Fights 20, KOs 15 Anthony Crolla, 29 Lightweight Fights 38, KOs 13 Kell Brook, 30 Welterweight Fights 36, KOs 25 Luke Campbell, 28 Lightweight Fights 15, KOs 11 Groomer Michael Harding Photo assistants Rory Cole and Liam Hart Stylist’s assistant Oliver Sharp Grooming assistant Sammie Kerr Production KO Productions Location Photolink Studios Manchester With thanks to Ross Garritty at Matchroom Sport Britain’s top professional boxers are no strangers to drama – inside and outside the ring. Unstoppable in the face of defeat, disappointment or danger, they’ve fought their way to gold medals, world titles and a call from Hollywood. And that’s just the warm-up. With new fights to win, titles to defend and reputations to seal, these hard hitters are ready for the next round – and the gloves are coming off Tony Bellew Don’t…

BLED RIGHT N TRUE

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