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British GQ Style Issue 25 (Digital)

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41 Articles

The Contributors

Max Clark Stylist Max Clark was appointed Fashion Editor of i-D magazine in 2014 having begun his career at Arena Homme+ where he remains Contributing Fashion Editor. Max has styled shoots for magazines including POP, Re-Edition, The Gentlewoman, Hot & Cool, Double and Buffalo Zine. He has also styled for Burberry, Kenzo, Supreme, Adidas, McQ, MM6 Maison Margiela, and Fred Perry while working closely with designer Christopher Shannon. For this issue, ‘I shot a fashion story with photographer Scott Trindle in an English coastal town. I liked the idea of mixing classic English or Italian tailoring brands with current catwalk fashion and showing them in a much more contemporary way.’ Giampaolo Sgura Photographer Giampaolo Sgura shot Armie Hammer and Timothée Chalamet for the two covers. ‘I was born in south Italy, precisely in…

The Contributors

The Editor’s Letter

Manchester has always had a special place in my heart, ever since I was a whippersnapper about town and bolstered my income by writing club reviews for a prestigious gay magazine in the early Noughties. I got taken by Paul Flynn to a fantastic club night there called HomoElectric. When the shocking events happened in Manchester in May this year, thousands of people descended on the city centre to honour and remember the scores of victims who were killed and injured in the explosion after the Ariana Grande concert. They held England flags and banners – ‘Love for all and hatred for none’ – and signs with ‘#ForManchester’ and ‘I heart Manchester’. People of all faiths and backgrounds, united by their sadness and hope, attended vigils around the UK, too.…

The Editor’s Letter

THE HOLY TRINITY

Vivienne Westwood occupies a unique place in pop culture consciousness. On the one hand, she’s the original punk; on the other, she’s the Dame with fullyfledged national treasure status. Juergen Teller embodies a similar duality: as an art photographer who lenses high-fashion campaigns, he’s perfectly positioned to translate Westwood’s visual language. Teller has been working with Westwood and her husband, design partner and now creative director, Andreas Kronthaler, since the mid- Nineties, shooting the house’s campaigns and collaborating on numerous editorials and projects. ‘For years I’ve worked with Vivienne and Andreas and every time I find it super exciting,’ Teller says. Theirs is a dynamic that moves beyond the boundaries of collaborators and edges into the realm of mischievous coconspirators, as anyone who saw Teller’s 2013 ICA retrospective will remember –…

THE HOLY TRINITY

Erdem Moralioglu is giving GQ Style an exclusive sneak preview of his first ever menswear line. ‘It is based on the stuff I used to wear as a kid back in Canada,’ he says. ‘Plus some bits inspired by my dad’s wardrobe, too.’ The Erdem x H&M collection of 31 pieces is available online and in 220 H&M stores around the world, and debuts on Thursday 2 November 2017. It’s the latest in a line of blockbuster collaborations from the Swedish shop group including Versace, Marni and Comme des Garçons. This one, though, is probably the best ever according to design insiders. Think of the line of trousers, pyjamas, shoes, jackets, coats, scarves and woolly hats as your ultimate modular wardrobe: outfits can be built using all the components to create dozens…

Shoot to thrill

Daniel Sannwald is a magician with colour. He can make a grey glow fluorescent, or the water in a swimming pool seem to catch fire. He can turn Rihanna into a liquid crystal wave. He can conjure up solarisation effects and gradients rarely seen in nature and show us another world of hidden colours. This autumn the German photographer (who has shot two covers for us here at GQ Style: John Boyega for the Autumn Winter 2015 issue and our Kingston special for our Spring Summer 2016 issue) is releasing a monograph of his work and it’s titled, rather appropriately, Spektrum. ‘I love to look at colours, especially at colour combinations,’ explains Sannwald. ‘I have this Japanese book next to my bed where on each page different colours are combined. I…

Shoot to thrill

How would you imagine the days roll on the Cannes summer estate of Philipp Plein, the German fashion designer known as much for his high-octane lifestyle as much as his fashions? Champagne? Caviar? Speedboat races? Not quite, according to graffiti artist Alec Monopoly, Plein’s close friend and newest collaborator. Things are a whole lot more, um, real: ‘We’ll get up, he’ll go to his house and work with his team for three or four hours and I’ll go down to my studio in the guest house and work there. Then we’ll take a bit of lunch and head back to do work again for a few hours. It’s good, he comes and looks at my new paintings and I look at his new designs, there’s a nice synergy.’ The pair met when…

DECORATION SENSATION

Alessandro Michele is not one for resting on his laurels. Not content with having changed the way the fashion crowd dresses, he now intends to bring his unique brand of opulence and fantasy into our houses and change the way we live. With the launch of Gucci Décor, a highly eclectic collection of ornate furniture, homeware, crockery and more, it’s now possible to dress your rooms as you’ve been dressing yourself, mixing and matching favourite patterns and filling your house with the unexpected. Beginning with cushions, Décor goes all the way up to elegant dressing screens decorated with giant octopuses, luxurious silk wallpapers featuring Michele’s take on the house’s famous Flora design, and incenses and candles to fill your world with fragrances he’s laden with all the notes of the…

DECORATION SENSATION

If you’re the type of man whose hat takes its own seat on Net Jets, chances are you’re wearing Billionaire. Because aside from fitting the bill stylistically, it’s good to be reminded you are one every time you see the label in your shirt. Inspired by the Eighties super soaps, this season’s collection is about a Texan tycoon flitting from riding on the ranch to taking a chopper to the tennis court for the afternoon – whilst dropping by the office for an hour at midday to broker another phone-number deal. And staying away from family catfights as best he can. Sound like fiction? To most. To Billionaire’s clientele it’s reality. His outerwear is snakeskin, chinchilla, mink, astrakhan or crocodile. His jeans are dry-cleaned to the highest standard, bought ten pairs at…

‘ I try to make clothes that aren’t nostalgic and look at the past through my eyes of today so the result feels relevant’ Neil Barrett got into fantasy while reading The Hobbit at comprehensive school, an apt prelude to becoming the Thronie he is today. ‘It’s a big shot of escapism. I think it’s the scope and grandeur of the ideas and the characters that are so heroic but so real,’ he says of the genre. And coming from a family of British master tailors, he rather likes the Game Of Thrones uniforms. ‘You know, back in the day, you had your day uniform, your evening uniform. You had one look. Which is the basis of all menswear.’ It’s this inherent codebook that fuels his work. ‘I’ve always loved that concept…

‘ I love Californian style because it’s effortless and completely carefree’ really love the style because it’s effortless and completely carefree. It could be ethnic, it could be sport, could be surf, it could be rock.’ MSGM founder and designer Massimo Giorgetti is taken with the Californian attitude when it comes to dressing. Indeed, a trip along the West Coast, from the south to the north via Mexico, is the inspiration behind his SS18 collection, mixing the elements through an MSGM filter back in Milan. ‘I went for three weeks a couple of years ago and I completely fell in love,’ he explains. ‘It’s a little bit different from the movies and the image you have in your mind. One of the first things I was impressed by was the light there,…

The Art Renegade

Since I was 17,’ Jean-Michel Basquiat told The New York Times when he was 24, ‘I thought I might be a star. I’d think about all my heroes, Charlie Parker, Jimi Hendrix. I had a romantic feeling about how these people became famous.’ He was always destined for immortality one way or another. By the end of the Seventies his graffiti tag, ‘SAMO©’ – an abbreviation of ‘same old, same old shit’ that he shared with his classmate Al Diaz – was one of the best known in a New York that was already completely covered in graffiti. When Diaz and he fell out in 1979 they announced it to the world by writing ‘SAMO© IS DEAD’ across the walls of SoHo. In 1980, he met Andy Warhol for the…

The Art Renegade

WHEREVER HUGO I FOLLOW

For its SS18 show, BOSS invited us to Fulton Market Building in Lower Manhattan, an old fish market with wide open views of one of the world’s great natural harbours, and took us on a nautical journey. The collection was titled ‘Summer of Ease’ and featured suits in sailing white, PVC fishermen jackets in signal red and overcast blue, loads of bucket hats, and a particularly memorable bomber jacket embroidered with nautical flags along the sleeve and, on the chest, the brand’s youthful new logo ‘HBNY’ – standing for ‘Hugo Boss New York’. Many of these lads also carried large leather sacks for keeping all their swag in, complete with patterned rope pulls and a whistle on a clip, to blow when you’re lost on the high seas, or just…

WHEREVER HUGO I FOLLOW

Goody Two Shoes

Goody Two Shoes

Perhaps music fashion moments tend to stick with us more than runway ones because music gives clothes a mythical status, a sense of soul. ‘I thought I had a lot of coats, but seeing Liam’s archive,’ Pat Salter begins, sitting in Pretty Green’s King’s Cross head office, which is heaving with music paraphernalia. ‘It’s like, you wore that at Knebworth, you wore that at Wembley. You almost have an emotional connection to his stuff because you’re so familiar with it. We do coats that are kind of familiar to people.’ Liam is of course Liam Gallagher, and Salter has been heading up Gallagher’s brand as creative director for the past seven years. Of our collective obsession with outerwear, Salter says: ‘I think it’s that unexplainable thing of putting it on and…

Sport Plein Sport Plein Sport Plein

As he launches his super-technical new sportswear line, fashion designer and fitness fan Philipp Plein shares his exercise and health tips GQS: Tell us about the new line PP: Philipp Plein Sport is a luxury activewear brand for my customer, who gives priority to their image, who dresses well, is into fitness. They don’t want to wear mass produced items that everyone else has. GQS: How to do the perfect Philipp Plein squat? PP: Having my girlfriend in front of me doing the same training at the poolside and wearing shorts made of super-light technical fabric to feel as free as possible! GQS: What’s the best warm-up routine for, say, a high velocity fashion dash? PP: Sex. GQS: Best way to get through a plank, Plein-style? PP: My favourite music on full blast. GQS: What’s the secret Plein…

Sport Plein Sport Plein Sport Plein

Happy Happy MONDAY

Factory Records may have long chained the gate, but their conveyor belt’s still rolling: 2017 marks the 30th anniversary of Happy Mondays’ debut album Squirrel and G-Man Twenty Four Hour Party People Plastic Face Carnt Smile (White Out) a slice of Manchester pop history produced by The Velvet Underground’s John Cale. Hitting the road in celebration this November, Happy Mondays tour the UK and Ireland packing all their greatest hits – expect Pills, Thrills and Bellyaches. And all melons to be twisted. Like Mr Nice – the notorious Welsh Mary Jane enthusiast Howard Marks – the strange case of the Mondays is that they’ve gone from being regarded as dangerous to becoming a national treasure – as those who grew up to Step On and Kinky Afro became society’s (not so)…

Happy Happy MONDAY

Dean and Dan Caten are on the phone from Milan, discussing what sexy means. ‘A guy who’s masculine-looking and sporty and sexy all goes hand in hand. I think naivety, too, sometimes. A guy who doesn’t think he’s hot. A guy who thinks he’s gorgeous all the time is very unattractive,’ Dean Caten declares. ‘Guys in the wilderness are hot. Dressing a little bit like mountaineering. The ruggedness, the checks, for me it’s just a natural, animalistic hotness. They have a different softness that’s kind of sexy.’ Because of the nature element? ‘Maybe – maybe it’s the tiara that we throw on top of the baseball hat!’ Speaking of tiaras, the Canadian designers casually mention they’re flying to London to meet HM The Queen at Canada House to mark their homeland’s…

Winter Essentials

Winter Essentials

When you can count Steve McQueen, JFK and Michael Jackson among your satisfied customers, you must be doing something right. Maine-based shoemaker G.H. Bass & Co. can do just that thanks to its signature ‘Bass Weejun’ shoes, the definitive hand-sewn leather moccasins which have appeared everywhere from The West Wing to the opening of Jackson’s Thriller video. This season, the company is giving the celebrated style a winter upgrade with a rubber non-slip outsole that makes the shoes ideal for colder, icier weather. They’ve also developed a winter version of their famed Wilton Driver, with a padded ankle collar. Throughout the G.H. Bass & Co. autumnwinter collection there’s a range of styles for a whole host of different occasions. The dressier, more formal Monogram collection uses Goodyear Welted construction from a traditional…

Luxury Italian ski brand Moncler has a pretty solid success rate when it comes to collaborations. After previous partnerships with chic Parisian brand AMI and cult streetwear label Off-White, they have partnered with London-based designer Craig Green for Moncler C. The designer, who launched onto the menswear scene with a show that reduced grown fashion editors to tears in 2013 – no lie – and who has since won pretty much every industry award worth having including Menswear Designer of the Year and the BFC/GQ Fashion Fund, has created a 30-piece collection for the brand. ‘They approached me last September,’ says the designer, ‘and there are aspects that we both share such as padding and function and so it made sense.’ A field trip to the brand’s archive in Venice followed…

Manchester’s Finest

What happens when a brand or a thing or a person turns into an adjective? It means you’ve made it. It means your ‘itness’, the you, that mood or thing or movement or point of view you’ve created is so much part of the contemporary culture that you only need mention it to understand what ‘it’ stands for: ‘that’s very Warhol’, ‘that’s very east London’ or ‘that’s very Oi Polloi’. Steve Sanderson, 51, and Nigel Lawson, 48, are the brains behind Oi Polloi, a menswear shop in Manchester they started 15 years ago. The name Oi Polloi derives from Ancient Greek, meaning ‘the many’. The modern English corruption has come to mean ‘the working class’. Perfect, really. Make your way down Tib Street, past Afflecks, on to Thomas Street and there at…

Manchester’s Finest

Rejoice! The colder seasons are back. No more lazy weekends in the sun. No more picnics. No more swanning about in your T-shirt. Gotta wrap up again, piling on the layers, slinging on a jacket every time you go outside. And we love it. After months of a carefree attitude to clothes wearing, we now get the chance to go full coat, and it’s great. This is a time of sartorial superiority. We spend so much time in our jackets, they become an essential part of us, an extension of our personalities. From lightweight outerwear as summer makes way for autumn, to premium down jackets providing fantastic insulation and keeping you warm in extreme cold (landing in November), Superdry products are ones to really live in, accompanying you through thick and…

I am a short, middle-aged, white bald man in glasses and I’ve got a Supreme obsession. Every Thursday I, along with a few thousand mostly much younger and cooler Supreme-heads, visit the Supreme shop in London’s Soho, and spend vast wads on the hottest items from the latest drop. I pore over every product in the weekly drop-lists, get unfathomably excited by each rumour of every new collaboration, and bathe in a warm feeling when I manage to ‘cop’ a particularly sought-after piece. Especially the ones which feature its almost mystically appealing box logo – the word ‘Supreme’ in Futura Heavy Oblique against a rectangular box background. Known to all Supreme fans as the ‘bogo’. When I first clapped eyes on the big logo outside its original store on Lafayette Street,…

Back To The Future

How did the future look before Blade Runner? The shiny PVC of Courregès, the Jetsons geometry of Cardin – and Barbarella’s Paco Rabanne armour. Then everything changed: the fantasy of an uncomplicated lunar utopia crashed to Earth, re-emerging as sci-fi dystopia. Well, according to Philip K Dick anyway: his novel Do Androids Dream Of Electric Sheep?, published in 1968, become the source text for Ridley Scott’s cinema classic, released 14 years later. Set in 2019 Los Angeles – yes, the future is closer than it’s ever been – Rick Deckard (Harrison Ford), an ex-cop, is a ‘Blade Runner’. His role? To assassinate replicants – androids that look like human beings and evoke human emotions. Inevitably, Deckard begins to question his own identity in this future world – what is real and…

Back To The Future

Manchester’s got a really thriving art scene. There’s been a huge amount of investment in the arts in the last five years, so it’s exciting to be part of,’ begins artist Ian Rayer-Smith, citing the recent extension to the Whitworth Art Gallery, the opening of the HOME art centre and the city’s Buy Art Fair, which opens its tenth edition in October and will feature a display of his powerful expressionist paintings Rayer-Smith only began painting ten years ago, at the age of 37, after visiting a gallery in Laguna Beach on holiday and deciding to buy a painting that had caught his eye. ‘I actually don’t think of it as a great painting any more,’ he admits, ‘but it really got me going.’ Before long he was also painting, and…

TRIBE 01 SECOND-HAND DA DS Weirdo oversized jeans that look a bit ‘inside market’, washed-out sweatshirts last seen in the late Eighties and trainers with huge bulbous heels: welcome, fashion fans, to this season’s hottest catwalk look where dressing like somebody’s dad and going for a walk in the woods is the coolest thing around Should you wish to partake in this #dadcore movement, where looking completely out of fashion yet eye-wateringly in fashion all at the same time is a must, then let us take you to the Balenciaga SS18 show in Paris. Here, dads with kids and lots of models pretending to be dads walked down a catwalk in the middle of the Bois de Boulogne wearing things that dads wear. Well, things dads used to wear, sometime in the…

Freddie Flintoff is a man who knows how to rise to the biggest of occasions. This is reflected in his latest Flintoff by Jacamo collection. Inspired by the cricketing great’s personal style, it features a range of quality formal and casualwear that’ll help you always look your very best. Flintoff, who helps to design the range, says the tailoring element of the collection means there’s no excuse not to look sharp. ‘I applied the range to my own life, so there’s a suit for all occasions,’ he says. ‘There’s your dinner suit for a blacktie do, more detailed grey and blue check suits for weddings and christenings, and blue, grey and black three-piece suits for business meetings. I do go to them every now and then!’ As well as the slick suit…

Call me Armie Call me Timothée

I N the old days of the Hollywood studio system, Armie Hammer and Timothée Chalamet would have comprised alternate polarities of the star spectrum. In an about-shift that tells you as much about the changing temperature of the film world as it does the curiosity and confidence of the two leads of Call Me By Your Name (a confidence they both say they found under director Luca Guadagnino’s instruction), Hammer and Chalamet have travelled the independent route to bring to intimate life this year’s unassailable star-crossed lovers. On a sunny summer New York afternoon, Armie Hammer bowls into a sleek loft around the corner from the Empire State Building. His presence is felt immediately. Hammer is 6ft 5in tall, broad, tanned with size US15 shoes – a detail men rarely mind…

Call me Armie Call me Timothée

A BIRD OF A FEATHER

A BIRD OF A FEATHER

FIRSTLY a disclaimer: Goldie is not an easy interview. That’s not to say he’s a difficult interview – because he most definitely isn’t – it’s just that he’s so energetic, so engaged, so full of stories, theories, name-drops, cultural references and philosophical nuggets that you can’t do much else but strap yourself in next to him and point the interview somewhere in the direction of what your editor is asking for. You don’t even need to meet him to understand what he might be like to interview – his erratic vigour and natural, scattershot creativity is splattered all over his resumé. This is somebody who makes the original Renaissance men look like sticks-in-the-mud. Like some sort of junglist Action Man he has a lot of strings to his bow, a lot…

THERE ARE SUPERMODELS and then there are the Supers – and there is little doubt as to which Grace Elizabeth is destined to be. With a look that directly harks back to the Supers of the Nineties, she is a dazzling collage of the greats – a little Cindy, a dash of Christy, Gisele’s lips – the hair, the limbs, the sass. The 20-yearold from Lake City, Florida, has graced the runway for every major designer from Miu Miu to Moschino, is the face that opened for VS Pink at the 2016 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show and has been captured by the world’s most iconic photographers, to whom she refers in her insouciant Southern drawl as ‘Patrick’, ‘Steven’ and ‘Terry’. And that’s just three years into her career. Having been scouted…

OFF ICE Politics

OFF ICE Politics

THERE are two useful political bookends to the continued significance of the legend of Studio 54 from the opening and closure of the most famous nightclub in the world. When the doors of Studio flung open during the infamous early summer of 1977, the socialite Nikki Haskell was among the first to approach the velvet rope. She was double-dating that night. On her arm was a man whose name is now forgotten to history. Accompanying them was the future president of the USA, Donald Trump, with his then-bride, Ivana. In Studio’s dying days, after its short lifespan – the space ignited then burned out with the speed, efficiency and sparkle of a Catherine wheel – scandal had begun to accrue around the former midtown opera house, and not just concerning the…

Road to Nowhere

Road to Nowhere

You are he as you are me

You are he as you are me

ORDINARILY the opening of a new bar in Manchester should not be a big deal. More than any other British city and its citizens, Manchester and Mancunians are doused in the spirit of the night. Apocryphal tales of ne’er-do-wells up to mischief in the twilight hours are old news here. Local legends are littered with grateful trophies, handed out in swapped record decks, rolled-up tenners, a new pair of marle grey Adidas Samba and a sneaky pill found down a girlfriend’s bra at 1.30am. Everyone connected to the night has an affectionate nickname gleaned from some moment of miscreant behaviour. The point at which Saturday night touches Sunday morning is more than an old kitchen-sink drama; it’s part of the civic gene pool. It’s the way the city ticks. Yet when…

roomer Matt Mulhall at Streeters Models Eden Salmon at Select Model Management, Louis Griffiths at Select Model Management, Jack Wilson at Milk Management, Dean at Brother Models, Nile Goodlad at AMCK, Chunkit at Brother Models, Malik Al Jerrari at Supa Model Management and Zain Nutley-Stanford at First Model Management Photo assistants Willow Williams and Harry Sloan Stylist’s assistants Oliver Sharp and Henry Sanders Groomer’s assistant Ryan MacGregor Digital technician Jonathan Rose at Digi Boutique Production KO Productions Lighting Pixipixel Location Rida Studios With thanks to Justine Bayley at Lalaland Artists and Kasia Kret at Studio Invisible…

Face The Future

Nowadays, a splash of water and a swipe of moisturiser does not a grooming routine make. When it comes to male beauty, the market is big business – valued at £617 million in the UK alone. Today’s well-kept man is expected to know his serums from his SPF, his face mask from his filler. ‘We used to have only three-to-five per cent male customers and now we are almost ten per cent and rising,’ says Dr Michael Prager, a leading cosmetic practitioner. ‘There is a continuous rise in the male patients,’ agrees skincare demigod Dr Sebagh. ‘With online dating and second marriages, men want to look the best they can.’ Competition in the workplace plays a part, too. ‘CEOs come to me because they want to keep ahead of the…

Face The Future

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