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Bon Appetit May 2024 (Digital)

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15 Articles

2 min.

From the Editor

Bon Appétit has a long history with drinks. Our 50-plus-year archive is packed with advice for pouring Champagne, reviews of coffee machines, and plenty of kitschy ads for vodka, rum, and Frangelico. There were monthly quizzes on wine regions, and celebrities discussing their favorite soft drinks. At one point, we even had recipes for “tipsy pies.” By the 1990s and early aughts, there were entire issues dedicated to wine, with stories and recipes that celebrated all the ways cook-ing and dining can be enhanced by a good Pinot or Sancerre. These days bonappetit.com and epicurious.com still cover beverages regularly, with plenty of attention focused on cocktails, beer, and wine. We’ve got recipes galore, plus bar-focused travel guides and features on breweries worth a special trip. On our YouTube channel, contributor André Mack—who…

9 min.

Soup-er Power

MINI MEATBALL AND PASTINA SOUP Honey, I shrunk the soup! Lightly searing the meatballs first adds richness and meaty depth to the tomato broth that is finished with a handful of teensy pasta that cooks right in the soup. Because of their size, the meatballs can overcook quickly, so keep an eye on them. RECIPE BY RACHEL GURJAR 4–6 SERVINGS 2 large eggs1 lb. ground beef½ cup plain fine dried breadcrumbs6 garlic cloves, finely chopped, divided2 oz. Parmesan, finely grated (about 1 cup),⅓ plus more for serving cup finely chopped parsley, plus more for serving1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil1 medium onion, finely chopped1 32-oz. can tomato purée4 cups low-sodium chicken broth6 oz. pastina 1. Gently mix eggs, meat, breadcrumbs, half of the garlic, 2 oz.…

3 min.

Mezcal’s Next Round

Agave-based spirits are some of the most complex spirits on the planet. This is largely because the pineapple-shaped cores of the spiky plant can take up to 14 years to ripen, giving plenty of time for unique flavors to develop before distillation. And like wine, agave flavor also varies based on species, wild yeasts, distillation vessels (copper versus the more traditional clay, which date back to at least the 1600s), and terroir. Every bottle is a unique expression of all of these different factors. Any spirit derived from agave—native only to Central America—is technically a mezcal. (Tequila is a type of mezcal made from blue agave and cooked with steam.) Thanks to growing interest among serious drinkers here in the US, a surfeit of previously inaccessible regional mezcal varieties are now…

3 min.

A MATZO BREI THAT’S OUT OF THE BOX

The matriarchs in my family believe that more is more. That if you say you’re full you really want to be served another ladle of soup or scoop of ice cream. So the Passovers of my childhood were full of matzo, far more than any household could eat in eight days, the pantry stocked so heartily that a box might jump out if you dared to open the door. This was a blessing. The excess was the point. And the leftovers were the ritual. Matzo never went to waste. While braised brisket, gefilte fish, and flourless chocolate cake were special once-a-year affairs, matzo was far from it—specifically matzo ball soup for sick days, and matzo brei for all the other days. Most versions of the latter are egg-and-matzo scrambles, but ours…

8 min.

The 8 Best Places to Eat Buffalo Wings in Buffalo

Buffalo wings, with their fiery orange color and signature tang, tend to steal the spotlight from other chicken wings. This is perhaps due to their highly standardized formula: First, you fry or bake a batch of wings until they’re crisp and brown, then you toss them in a blend of melted butter and peppery Frank’s RedHot sauce. Then you serve them, ideally in a paper-lined basket with fresh celery and blue cheese dressing on the side. (Never ranch. Ever!) But in Buffalo, where wings inspire fierce hometown pride, the right to experiment has been earned. As long as they’ve mastered a version of the classic Buffalo wing, restaurants here are free to play around with subtle distinctions and idiosyncratic approaches to this iconic dish, drawing cult obsessions and an array of…

3 min.

A Curious Spirit

Fawn Weaver is in the legacy-cementing business. The best-selling author, CEO, and now diligent student of French is best known as the cofounder of Uncle Nearest Premium Whiskey. The spirits brand is rooted in the story of Nathan “Nearest” Green, the formerly enslaved whiskey distiller who taught Jack Daniel the craft. Since founding the company in 2017, Weaver has grown the brand’s portfolio to include seven varieties of whiskey and won countless awards. And now Weaver is setting her sights on Europe: Her company recently bought the largest Grande Champagne vineyard in Cognac. We caught up with her between language lessons to chat about this recent endeavor, her upcoming book, Love & Whiskey, and more. You’ve got a lot going on these days. Let’s talk about some of the things you…

3 min.

Pie’s the Limit

PARTY PLANNER GREAT FOR Spice lovers, a potluck dinner with friends, or a meal for new parents that’s guaranteed to feed them for a few days. TO DRINK Frosty beer, dry Riesling, ginger kombucha. TIME-SAVER Use 1½ lb. cubed rotisserie chicken (skin and bones removed) instead of the cooked chicken breast. SERVE WITH A salad of Little Gem lettuce and radicchio dressed with a bright rice wine vinaigrette. GREEN CURRY CHICKEN POT PIE 6–8 SERVINGS A little heat from canned green curry paste and a generous splash of lime juice put a bright spin on classic chicken pot pie. We highly recommend Maesri brand curry paste for its balanced heat and aromatic warmth—feel free to swap in the red or yellow varieties if that’s what you’ve got. 2 lb. skinless, boneless chicken breasts (about 4 medium)2 Tbsp. vegetable oil1 Tbsp. plus ⅓…

2 min.

BROCCOLI SPOON SALAD WITH WARM VINAIGRETTE

WHY WE LOVE IT This hearty chopped broccoli salad from chef Beverly Kim, co-owner of Parachute and Anelya in Chicago, is meant to be made ahead; it just gets better as the ingredients mingle over time. Each texture-filled forkful is an adventure. Your first might be stacked with tingly bits of jalapeño and cooling cilantro leaves. The next with buttery pistachios and chewy dates, pliable and soft from soaking in the liquid gold vinaigrette pooling at the bottom of the bowl. And it’s an absolute cinch to make: Just quickly toast the pistachios and sizzle the aromatic ras-el-hanout spice blend in oil before tossing the salad together. The crisp-tender bite the raw broccoli maintains makes your second day of office lunch rival the first. —Kate Kassin 4 SERVINGS ¼ cup raw pistachios6 Tbsp.…

8 min.

Catfish Out of Water

There’s this impossible photo of me as a child. I’m smiling and holding up the catfish I just caught. It’s my first time fishing. My uncle had taken me out to Lake Lawtonka—a man-made lake, as many in Oklahoma are. Nothing in the photo squares up with my remembered reality. Looking at this kid holding up a fish nearly half his size, I think, That can’t be me. I was a notorious sissy. Squeamish, cried at the drop of a hat, spent most of my time reading books or playing video games. My family lived in the rural city of Cache, out in the middle of nowhere. There was a bright red barn in our backyard, horses, cows. But I was no farm-boy. I screamed at the sight of bugs in…

2 min.

CRISPY BUTTERMILK-FRIED CATFISH

4 SERVINGS The best fried catfish—the true state food of Oklahoma, in Brammer’s opinion—starts like fried chicken, with a tenderizing buttermilk-based marinade. Because the fillets are so thin, they don’t need a long soak: After just about 15 minutes, they’re ready for dredging and frying. 2 cups buttermilk1½ tsp. smoked paprika¼ tsp. cayenne pepper3 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more2 tsp. garlic powder, divided Freshly ground pepper4 4–6-oz. catfish fillets, patted dry¾ cup finely chopped pickles½ cup mayonnaise2 Tbsp. whole grain mustard1 Tbsp. finely chopped chives1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice½ cup medium-grind⅓ cornmeal cup all-purpose flour Vegetable oil (for frying; 3–4 cups) Ketchup (for serving) SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A deep-fry thermometer Whisk buttermilk, paprika, cayenne, 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and 1 tsp. garlic…

13 min.

NO PARTY LIKE AN ANJU PARTY

I’ve been drinking Koreanstyle ever since my soju-loving uncle slid that first glass across the table. From that point I’ve shared countless green bottles of soju, copper kettles of makgeolli, and bottles of beer with family, friends, their parents, and even the occasional business person (the true expert) in Korea and Koreatowns across the US. Drinking is an important part of Korean culture, a practice with a beautiful rhythm that is dictated by a complex web of rules and traditions. To start, you can’t drink without eating—which is exactly what makes K-drinking the perfect inspiration for hosting a party at home. Here I’ve distilled what I’ve learned from all those tipsy nights into a simple guide, with recommendations for what to buy and drink, classic and satisfying recipes to pair, and…

13 min.

ALLA VODKA

CRISPY FRIED SHRIMP AND GIARDINIERA A vodka-and-cornstarch-based batter creates a coating that fries up gloriously golden brown, with a seriously crunchy exterior that gives way to tender bites of shrimp and tangy giardiniera. One cup of liquor might seem like a shocking amount, but it’s what makes the fry so intensely crisp. The alcohol in vodka won’t bind to flour to create gluten (the culprit responsible for chewy, cakey fried batters and tough cookies; see page 69 for more) and evaporates a lot quicker than water. Once the shrimp and giardiniera hit the hot oil, the moisture in the coating starts to dissipate rapidly, transforming it into a puffy shell far lighter and airier than its water-and-beer-based counterparts. 4–6 SERVINGS SHRIMP AND GIARDINIERA 2 12-oz. jars vinegar-based giardiniera, drained (about 3 cups)12 oz. large…

13 min.

BRIGHTEN UP YOUR BAR

The seasons are changing and we’re thirsty for new drinks. As the days get warmer and longer, we want fizzy coolers, fruit-laced punches by the pitcher, and worth-the-brain-freeze slushies—and enough variety to match the kind of whimsical spontaneity that makes spring and summer so special. But we also don’t want to blow our budgets on dozens of bottles or to lug cases of obscure liqueurs to the vacation rental. Which is why we’ve pared down our ideal bar to a tight roster of five hardworking bottles that can be used to whip up 15 flavor-packed drinks. Some people strive to cull their closets to a capsule wardrobe: a few core pieces of clothing that can stylishly mix and match without ever getting tired. That’s exactly what we did here but…

7 min.

BRING YOUR BEST

On any given night sommeliers are uncorking their finest bottles not at deep-cellared fine dining spots or at exclusive private clubs, but at low-key restaurants with one very important thing in common: a bring-your-own-bottle policy. The fact that these places don’t sell alcohol of their own is the whole point, an opportunity to open splashy bottles for friends without having to pay a hefty restaurant markup. At BYOBs, somms can pour bubbly for one another at a table filled with more wine glasses than dishes and use lazy Susans brimming with ginger-scallion prawns and sesame noodles to pass bottles of chilled red around—all in the casual, anything-goes environment of a restaurant that lets them linger. We asked three experts to sound off on their favorite places for a wine-fueled night,…

2 min.

Last Call

BASIL-FENNEL SODA This soda tastes like a sparkling lemonade that’s been hanging out at the farmers market. The basil-infused, citrus-forward drink harnesses the not-often-praised perks of the shoulder season that bridges late winter and early spring, pairing citrus with vibrant herbs. All it requires is a little planning and a strong grip. You make a flavorful simple syrup with basil and fennel, then combine it with lemon and lime juices. Give it all a vigorous shake in a cocktail shaker, pour it into a glass, and top it off with some club soda. I like making a batch of the basil-fennel syrup to store in the fridge so I can whip up what I now call “adult soda” on the fly. The subtle anise flavors of the fennel and basil make…

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Reviews

425

I wanted to give Bon Appetit a try because I love to cook. Compared to the New York Times and foodnetwork recipes, well, I really don't find much that I like about Bon Appetit. Too many obscure and expensive ingredients. And I was annoyed that I couldn't access the online version on my laptop, just your app. I have enough apps on my phone already. I wanted to support a magazine, but I didn't find the content relevant to me and I didn't find recipes I wanted to make. I think the magazine, overall, is too high brow.

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Bon Appetit May 2024 (Digital)

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