Magzter Gold (Sitewide Promotion)

Magzter Gold (Sitewide Promotion)

Digital Delivery

Bon Appetit September 1st, 2015 Digital Back Issue Cover

Bon Appetit Sep-15 (Digital)

(585)

Single Digital Issue

Sep-15

$6.99

Powered By Zinio

Zinio

Satisfaction Guaranteed

Instant Start

Subscribe Instead

1 Year Subscription

10 digital issues

$29.99

($3.00/issue)

Go to Subscription

View Subscription Options

33 Articles

editor’s letter

MISSION: FRIED RICE “I love the best fried rice, and I love the worst fried rice.” That’s Danny Bowien talking, but it might as well be me. Like so many New Yorkers, I order a lot of Chinese delivery. And fried rice is always in the mix. But when I’ve tried to re-create the restaurant staple at home, I strike out. There’s either way too much soy sauce or not enough. It’s usually more clumpy than crispy. And that smoky sear from the wok? Not even close. So a couple of months ago, I called Bowien, who has soared to success by riffing on the classics at his Mission Chinese Food restaurants in San Francisco and New York. (He made Andrew Knowlton’s Hot Ten list way back in 2011.) Would he teach me how…

editor’s letter

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, OUR ATTEMPTS TO REPLICATE THE BRUSSELS SPROUTS FROM UCHIKO IN AUSTIN AT HOME WENT DOWN IN FLAMES (FIGURATIVELY). PLEASE HELP US TO BRING THEM HOME TO MUSIC CITY —Ashley and Michael Barraza,Nashville CRISPY BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH CHILE CARAMEL 4 servingsSmaller brussels can cook in half the time; rely on the visuals, not your timer, to know when they’re done. 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus more for frying (about 8 cups) 1 small shallot, coarsely chopped 6 garlic cloves, peeled 1 red or green Thai chile, halved 1 lemongrass stalk, tough outer layers removed, cut into 1" pieces 1 1" piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced into rounds ½ cup fish sauce ½ cup sugar 1 lb. brussels sprouts, trimmed, quartered Lemon wedges (for serving) SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A deep-fry thermometer Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a medium skillet over medium-high. Add shallot, garlic,…

The Year in Food

SEE OUR HOT 10, PAGE 109 1 Where’s the Beet? Vegetables are no stranger to the spotlight these days. The latest MVP? The humble beet, which can do anything that pork, chicken, or beef can do. 2 ROPE ’EM IN The obvious way to anchor a nautical theme? Knotted boating line, used to decorate dining spaces (and, yes, to occasionally wrap too-hot-to-lean-on radiator pipes) at seafood-heavy spots like Lupulo in NYC and Sink | Swim in Chicago. 3 Supermarket Sweep Are we in a restaurant or a Costco aisle? Chefs are making magic with some of the world’s least sexy ingredients. BUTTON MUSHROOMSSpotted at: Aldine in Philadelphia, thinly sliced raw, sheltering beef medallions BOURSINSpotted at: Helm in Philadelphia, stepping in for goat cheese in a salad with beets and peppers OLD BAYSpotted at: Fred’s Meat & Bread in Atlanta,…

The Year in Food

So what, exactly, has coffee nerds so excited? Temperature control and steam capacity, two espresso essentials. When I started Stumptown Coffee in 1999, I didn’t even think about using an espresso machine other than a La Marzocco. I don’t know of any other espresso maker— or car or lawn mower or pasta machine or meat grinder—that can boast the same reputation for quality. So when I heard that they were going to make a home version of the Linea machine, I couldn’t wait to get my mitts on one. I put the thing to the test in my kitchen—basically I got on top of it and rode it like a mechanical bull until I fell off. It is, hands down, the best home espresso machine on the market. I love espresso coffee.…

THE VITALS Age 33 Hometown Springfield, VA Favorite cereal Lucky Charms Just the marshmallows? Only sometimes Hangover cure Water and an everything bagel Pastry trend she’s over Enough with the bacon Why do TV? “I thought it’d be a great challenge. I wanted to see if I could do it and be a role model for others in the industry.” Did you have to create a niche for yourself as a judge, Randy-Paula-Simon style? “I was doing a talk the other day, and someone introduced me as a ‘scary but nice’ judge. I’m not scary in the kitchen unless you’re not using your full potential. But you gotta be a straight shooter.” How do you balance being critical and constructive? “That part is tricky, especially for a girl. Sometimes it feels like you’re just complaining or being mean. I try to remain…

THE BREAK-UP At home, slice through any meringue, nestle it on a bed of whipped cream, and add berries. Shattered Pavlova! the PRO JESUS PEREA Cosme / NYC The Most Instagrammed Dessert of the Year almost wasn’t. When Cosme pastry chef Jesus Perea made a batch of corn husk meringues, they came out of the oven broken, creating a jagged canyon destined to be filled with corn cream. THE YIN & YANG the PRO ZACH POLLACK Alimento / Los Angeles Pollack shifts the center of gravity, swiping his Marsala-spiked chicken liver mousse along one side of the plate, bringing it right up to the edge. The asymmetrical structure anchors the dish—and has a dramatic look. SWITCH IT UP Create a similar effect with softened butter or labneh. Spoon the ingredient just off-center, then use an offset spatula to spread it evenly to…

Look Better, Cook Better

The 2015 Archetype Angela Dimayuga,Mission Chinese Food, NYC Tall toques? Crisp white coats? Chefs are about as interested in that uniform today as they are in aspic. Just look at Dimayuga, who expresses her personal style on the line with vintage Levi’s, D.I.Y. jewelry, and street-worthy clogs. (To check out her kitchen comrade Danny Bowien’s style, see page 16.) EVEN MORE FOOD + FASHION! What better time to debut a chef-approved outfit than Fashion Week (September 10–17)? Go to BAfeastorfashion.com for access to exclusive Hot Table reservations, custom menus, and VIP treatment at participating New York restaurants.…

Look Better, Cook Better

IT’S TIME TO START WEARING AN APRON Apron fever took hold this year, with statement pieces in everything from tie-dye to denim. Tilit made these for the staff at NYC tasting-menu spot Contra, and now you can buy them. The waxed cotton stands up to spills and splashes but is lightweight enough to keep cool. Contra Apron; tilitchefgoods.com HOURS OVER A STOVE DON’T EXACTLY COUNT AS A FACIAL The heat and grease of a restaurant demands some skin TLC. Angela Dimayuga (see previous page) swears by this rose toner for hydration and revitalization. Gypsy Rose Toner; poppy andsomeday.com IT’S IN THE BAG Would you head to work without putting the finishing touch on your outfit? Kitchen pro Paul Qui of Qui in Austin doesn’t, either. Big enough to hold his knives and his laptop, this plaid-lined backpack…

The Restaurant Commandments

1 Book a Table an Hour Earlier Than You Used to. (Then Call Back and Make It an Hour Earlier) “I’m sorry, all we have is 5:30” should be an opportunity, not a heart-sinker. Now it’s so much easier to snag a table at that popular place—and there will be fewer people to offend when your daughter decorates your white pants with her ragù. 2 Make the Kids Order for Themselves For years our girls would just look at us when the waiter asked what they wanted. We decided that a restaurant was a good place to master the art of looking people in the eyes and, you know, using their mouths to speak. 3 Take the Booth It’s more private, more comfortable, and more fun for the kids. Also much easier to hide when…

The Restaurant Commandments

Knives are tools. The simplest kind of tools, really: wedges used to break food into pieces more quickly and easily than you could with your bare hands. But watch any professional chef breeze through even the most mundane prep work, and you start to get the sense that it’s a little bit more complicated than that. The fact is that in skilled hands, well-made, well-maintained knives make cooking look like ballet: effortless, elegant, artful. What’s the only thing separating home cooks like us from that level of competency? A little bit of knowledge. Which is why we called upon the nation’s expert knife makers, knife-store owners, and the ultimate knife evangelists— chefs—for their razor-sharp advice on shopping for, sharpening, and skillfully wielding the most important tools in your kitchen. If…

gruel intentions

SAVORED AT PORRIDGE + PUFFS, LOS ANGELES MILKTOOTH, INDIANAPOLIS SBRAGA, PHILADELPHIA LA PETITE GROCERY, NEW ORLEANS 1 EMBRACE BROTH CULTURE Savory porridge needs to be, well, savory. So rather than cooking the grains in water, we start with 3 qt. low-sodium chicken broth (this recipe serves 4). Then, pile on the aromatics: Throw in a few peeled small shallots, a couple peeled garlic cloves, and a nice bundle of herbs (such as parsley, thyme, and a bay leaf). 2 ATTRACT OPPOSITE GRAINS Any whole grain, such as brown rice, farro, or spelt, works as a base. We love the combination of sorghum with spelt. Add 1 cup of each (2 cups total) to the pot with the broth, along with 2 cups water. Bring it to a boil, then simmer until grains are soft and most of the…

gruel intentions

vine celebrities

Rosemary-Concord Shrub Bring 1 cup Concord grapes, ⅓ cup sugar, and ½ cup water to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer until reduced to ½ cup, 10–12 minutes. Strain grape syrup and let cool. For each cocktail, place 4 rosemary leaves, 2 oz. vodka, 1 oz. grape syrup, and . oz. apple cider vinegar in a cocktail shaker and fill with ice. Cover and shake until shaker is frosty, about 30 seconds. Strain into a rocks glass filled with ice; add 2–3 oz. club soda. Makes 4 Black Grape Compote Bring 2 star anise pods, 3 cups seedless black grapes, ⅓ cup sugar, . cup fresh lemon juice, and a pinch of salt to a boil in a large skillet, stirring to dissolve sugar. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until grapes burst and…

vine celebrities

fast, easy, fresh

The Bar Method Practice it with us: Make a batch of these seed-and-nut-packed energy bars. Reach for one any time snack cravings strike. Repeat as often as necessary Sesame-Peanut Bars ACTIVE 15 MIN - TOTAL 1 HR 20 MIN (INCLUDES COOLING TIME) MAKES ABOUT 16 Butter an 8x8" glass baking dish; line with parchment paper, leaving a generous overhang on all sides. Mix 1 ¼ cups white and/or black sesame seeds, ¾ cup unsweetened shredded coconut, ¼ cup unsalted, roasted peanuts, and ¼ tsp. kosher salt in a large bowl. Mix ¼ cup honey, 2 Tbsp. creamy peanut butter, and ¼ tsp. vanilla extract in a small bowl. Add to sesame seed mixture and mix well. Scrape mixture into prepared baking dish; press firmly into an even layer. Bake at 350° until golden brown around the…

fast, easy, fresh

Spaghetti Eastern

JESSE HOUSTON SALTINE , JACKSON, MS “On nights off, I’ll make my version of ramen for the family. It evolved over time to be a mash-up of ingredients common to Japanese (hon-dashi), Korean (kimchi), and Southern (smoked turkey wings) cooking. I don’t use ramen noodles: Spaghetti actually holds up really well in the broth.” Ramen with Smoked Turkey Broth ACTIVE 45 MIN - TOTAL 1 HR 30 MIN 4 SERVINGS BROTH 2 Tbsp. olive oil 1 small onion, chopped 6 garlic cloves, peeled 1 lemongrass stalk, tough outer layers removed, chopped 1 1" piece ginger, peeled, sliced ½ jalapeno, sliced 1 handful cilantro stems 2 lb. smoked turkey wings 1 Tbsp. (or more) hon-dashi (bonito stock powder) 1 Tbsp. (or more) soy sauce SOUP AND ASSEMBLY 2 baby bok choy, quartered Kosher salt 2 large eggs 12 oz. spaghetti 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil 1 cup kimchi Enoki mushrooms, mung bean sprouts,…

Spaghetti Eastern

Herein Lies the Rub

BRIAN LUSCHER LUSCHER’S RED HOTS, DALLAS “You don’t have to buy dry-aged Wagyu to have a good piece of meat! Just take a nice, flavorful cut and season it up. This dry rub is something I’ve been tinkering with since blackening was a craze back in the ’80s: It loves beef, and beef loves it back. Use it on ribs, skirt steak—even pork chops.” Dry-Rubbed Flank Steak with Grilled Corn Salsa ACTIVE 40 MIN - TOTAL 50 MIN 4 SERVINGS DRY RUB 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar 1 Tbsp. ancho chile powder 1 Tbsp. paprika 2 tsp. kosher salt 2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp. cayenne pepper 1 tsp. granulated garlic 1 tsp. English mustard powder ½ tsp. ground coriander ½ tsp. ground cumin STEAK AND SALSA 2 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more for grill 3 ears of corn, shucked ¼ red onion, finely chopped 1 jalapeno, seeds removed,…

Herein Lies the Rub

In Rice We Crust

GAVIN KAYSEN SPOON AND STABLE, MINNEAPOLIS “Every year during open-fishing season in Minnesota, we’d crust walleyes with crushed Ritz crackers and fry them—there’s still nothing better on the planet. But I love the nuttiness that the wild rice adds. Puff some extra wild rice for folding into cooked rice so you get those two textures.” Wild Rice–Crusted Halibut ACTIVE 30 MIN - TOTAL 35 MIN 4 SERVINGS 4 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided ½ cup wild rice 1 cup all-purpose flour 2 large eggs 4 5–6-oz. skinless halibut, hake, or cod fillets Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper Lemon wedges (for serving) Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a medium skillet over medium-high. Add rice and cook, tossing occasionally, until grains have popped open like popcorn and are lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer to paper towels and let cool. Pulse in a food processor…

In Rice We Crust

ANNIE WAYTE WHITE HART INN, SALISBURY, CT “I love the combination of spices in this compote, but if you don’t have these exact ones, just go with the flow of whatever you have in your house—and don’t be shy. You’ll be surprised how well the sweetness of the compote pairs with a rich, fatty meat like duck or pork.” Apple and Peach Compote ACTIVE 35 MIN - TOTAL 35 MIN 4 SERVINGS 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, each cut into 8 wedges 2 ripe peaches, each cut into 8 wedges 2 Tbsp. sugar ¼ tsp. ground cardamom ¼ tsp. ground cinnamon ¼ tsp. ground ginger ¼ tsp. kosher salt 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter ½ cup apple cider 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Toss apples, peaches, sugar, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, and salt in a medium bowl. Heat butter in a large skillet over medium-high. Once butter is…

meet your matcha

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: One 3¼"-diameter cutter, one 1¼"-diameter cutter, a deep-fry thermometer Matcha Doughnuts MAKES 8 ¼ cup granulated sugar 1 ¾ tsp. baking powder ¾ tsp. kosher salt 2 cups cake flour, plus more for surface 1 large egg ½ cup buttermilk 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted Vegetable oil (for frying; about 4 cups) Matcha Sugar Topping, Sweet Matcha Powder, or Matcha Glaze (see instructions, left) Whisk granulated sugar, baking powder, salt, and 2 cups flour in a large bowl. Make a well in the center and add egg, buttermilk, and butter. Using a wooden spoon or a spatula, gradually incorporate dry ingredients until a shaggy dough forms. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead a couple of times or so until no wet spots remain (be careful not to overwork or doughnuts will be tough). Roll out dough to ¼"…

meet your matcha

the island of eating

FOR THE ADDRESSES OF THE SPOTS IN THIS STORY, SEE SOURCEBOOK ON PAGE 176. “If you say, ‘Oh my God, I’m so hungry!’ to someone in Singapore, they’ll laugh in your face. Walk in any direction here and you’ll find something good to eat.” This is the first piece of advice I receive upon landing in Singapore, courtesy of my cab driver. For the next 20 minutes, he rattles off food suggestions while I scribble them down. This scenario will repeat itself a half dozen times during my 12-day eating tour of the tiny island nation, an ethnically diverse citystate that’s celebrating 50 years of independence. The country continues to develop at a dizzying clip, the crown jewel being the unveiling of a new National Gallery this fall. The food and drink…

the island of eating

1 RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

GALANGAL-BRAISED PORK BELLY WITH TROUT ROE P.117 AT AL’S PLACE, an unassuming 46-seat restaurant on a sleepy corner of San Francisco’s otherwise buzzing Mission District, things can get complicated. Consider the french fries: First, large new potatoes, grown for the restaurant, are passed through a fry cutter. Then they are brined for 96 hours in 68-degree water that has been inoculated with salt and cabbage leaves to accelerate fermentation. Next, they’re fried for about five minutes at 325 degrees in rice bran oil. Finally, when an order comes in, they are fried again at 375 degrees for exactly one minute. They are served with a smoked apple barbecue sauce whose creation is equally involved. I had no idea about all of this when I first bit into them. All I knew…

1 RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

SO LONG, SOUS VIDE. In 2015, it’s all about the big-risk, big-reward spectacle of live-fire cooking. Wood-fired grills are the must-have fixtures in new restaurants, filling dining rooms with the unmistakable soundtrack of crackling embers, the mesmerizing glow of licking flames, and the seductively smoky flavor that only burning hardwood can impart. And a tiny Michiganbased company called Grillworks is outfitting the coolest restos with the custom rigs chefs need to up their flame game. SEEN AT 1. Selden Standard, Detroit 2. Cadet, L.A. 3. Beachcraft, Miami 4. 4505 Meats, San Francisco…

THINK OF GJUSTA as the modern-day version of the Chocolate Room in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. Almost everything here is edible and tempting, so where do you start— with the smoked brisket sandwich or the baklava croissant? That was my dilemma as I grabbed a golden ticket (okay, a number) and waited my turn. Pizza? No, that brisket sandwich looks like a can’t-miss. Wait, I’ll have the smoked fish sampler. My turn? Oh man, I have no idea. The cool kids of Venice surrounding me seemed to be having the same problem (not a bad one to have). And to think that Gjusta was just supposed to be a commissary kitchen for chef and owner Travis Lett’s sceney—and great—nearby spot, Gjelina. But it’s morphed into an all-day cafe (7 a.m.…

SPREAD THE NEWS: This Middle Eastern dip came out of the dorm fridge and into the spotlight this year. We saw refined versions of the classic, along with standout riffs (one order of roasted celery root hummus, please). But for chickpea perfection, look to chef Michael Solomonov’s ethereally smooth, addictively rich hummus tehina. Swooshed and served nonstop at Dizengoff, his Israeli-style hummusiya in Philadelphia, it’s our creamy, dreamy dish of the year. SEE NAT 1. Shaya, New Orleans 2. Sababa, San Francisco 3. Yalla, Atlanta 4. Sarma, Boston ISRAELI-STYLE HUMMUS MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPSIntentionally overcooking the chickpeas then whipping the mixture is key. See Prep School, page 174, for more secrets 1 cup dried chickpeas 2 tsp. baking soda, divided 4 garlic cloves, unpeeled ⅓ cup (or more) fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more ⅔ cup tahini ¼ tsp. (or more)…

FROM MY SEAT, I swear I can see the Eiffel Tower. There are half-drunk bottles of Burgundy on the bar and classic French dishes like steak au poivre, escargots, and jambon chablisienne on the menu. The s’il vous plaîts and mercis are flying. But I’m not in Paris. I’m in a strip mall in Hollywood—next door to a place called Yum Yum Donuts. And that Eiffel Tower view? Bof. I’m looking out at a 76 gas station. Still, I feel transported. Such is the power of Gallic chef Ludo Lefebvre’s sardine-size (just 22 counter seats) love letter to Parisian bistros. There’s marble on the bar, mirrors on the walls, and globe lights hanging from the ceiling; he’s added French hip-hop and a list of cocktails heavy on the pastis. The only…

MEET THE NEW MODEL for what used to be called fine dining, the intimate, scrappy, and refreshingly unintimidating Semilla. Some might miss the white tablecloths, bone china, and hushed tones of the country’s finest restaurants. But not me. What chef José Ramírez-Ruiz and his partner and pastry chef Pamela Yung’s 18-seat spot lacks in grandeur, it makes up for with an ambitious and inventive set menu. For $75, you receive ten works of art. I’m not exaggerating. Each visit featured several dishes that I didn’t know whether to eat or simply admire (the sliced, roasted, and reassembled carrots were an Instagram slam dunk). Meat plays a supporting role—think radish with a whipped foie gras dip—while workhorse vegetables like onion, celery, and potato are given star turns, prepared in ways that I…

Try this at home! Find the recipe at bonappetit.com/hot10 “THIS IS NOT YOUR GRANDMOTHER’S BIBIMBAP. WE’RE TAKING A HUMBLE DISH AND MAKING IT MORE THOUGHTFUL AND EXCITING.” —BEVERLY KIM IM USUALLY A LITTLE more disciplined, but I didn’t stand a chance against that bing bread. The second order seemed like the right move, until it wasn’t. Don’t get me wrong: I’d do it again. Parachute’s crispy, greasy-in-just-theright-way, pancake-like bread, loaded with potato, bacon, and scallion and served with sour-cream butter for slathering, was easily the most addictive thing I ate all year. Johnny Clark and Beverly Kim’s modern Korean-American restaurant is the latest of the Avondale neighborhood’s overachieving, no-nonsense spots. Sit at the long concrete table and start with the house pickles paired with a slightly fizzy pét-nat wine from the fun, wellcurated…

YOGURT-MARINATED GRILLED CHICKEN plain whole-milk yogurt, ¼ cup vinegar-based hot sauce (such as Crystal), 4 finely chopped garlic cloves, 1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh oregano, 2 Tbsp. olive oil, 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, and ½ tsp. garam masala in a large resealable plastic bag. Add 1 Dai Due’s Master Brined Chicken (see recipe page 142), backbone removed, and turn to coat. Seal bag, pressing out air; chill chicken 8–24 hours. Prepare grill for medium heat; lightly brush grate with vegetable oil. Remove chicken from marinade, wiping off any excess, and grill, skin side down, until skin is lightly charred and releases from grate without tearing, 10–15 minutes. Give bird a quarter turn and continue to grill until skin is nicely charred and crisp and thighs are starting to firm up…

STOP ME IF you’ve heard this one. Couple meets in Chicago. She’s a sommelier. He’s a cook. They fall in love, move to San Francisco, work at award-winning restaurants (in this case, Delfina and Quince), have a couple of kids, and spend the rest of their lives juggling career and family in the big city. But the tale of Joe and Katy Kindred has a plot twist: their return to Joe’s childhood home of Davidson, North Carolina (pop. 11,000), to open their dream restaurant. At Kindred, Joe cooks while Katy is sommelier, designer, and more. Most days you’ll find their kids running around the place. They’re not the only fans: Mayor John Woods is a regular, as is artist Tom Clark (“the gnome man”), whose museum formerly occupied the 101-year-old building.…

ON MY FIRST VISIT to Rintaro, I basically spent the night. I drank ice-cold Asahi beers, snacked on yakitori made from every part of the chicken, and gazed at the smoke rising from grills in the open kitchen. Maybe I was missing the experience that I’d had a few weeks earlier on a trip to Tokyo. Maybe it was those last sips of sake. But I had a visceral reaction to the place. A month later, I returned to chef Sylvan Mishima Brackett’s izakaya. This time it was with a clear head and lots of questions. Turns out there’s a story everywhere you look at Rintaro. The space—think Shinto shrine meets tree house—was built by Brackett’s father using ancient craftsmanship. That bar I’d been holding up? It was hewn from a…

Want the recipe for Manolin’s Halibut with Fall Mole? Go to bonappetit.com/hot10 IN HEMINGWAY’S The Old Man and the Sea, Santiago is the wise fisherman and Manolin his young apprentice. In my culinary retelling, the mentor is played by Renee Erickson, Seattle’s preeminent chef and restaurateur. The acolytes are a quartet of owners, all of whom worked at Erickson’s The Walrus and the Carpenter and The Whale Wins (both former Hot 10 spots). At Manolin, chef Alex Barkley and partners Joe Sundberg, Rachel Johnson, and Patrick Thalasinos prove they have learned well. The welcoming nautical-themed space is centered around a U-shaped bar, behind which bartenders shake sunny Caribbean-inspired cocktails while Barkley works the wood-fired grill. Rockfish ceviche with strands of deepfried sweet potato arrives bracingly tart. Arctic char comes lightly smoked and…

IDISLIKE BRUNCH. Actually, check that—I loathe brunch. It’s not just the gloppy eggs Benedict, it’s the entire concept. I mean, why wait in line with a bunch of Yelping strangers out for bottomless mimosas when I could make most of the food better at home? And then Milktooth happened. Now I’ve got egg on my face. How did this place, housed in a light-filled former garage, make me a believer? For starters, Milktooth goes all-in, exuberantly serving brunch—and only brunch—six days a week, from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. It’s not an afterthought, it’s their only thought. The servers, judging by their smiles, are all morning people. (Damn them.) Maybe they’re dipping into some of Milktooth’s no fewer than 25 house cocktails. But it was chef Jonathan Brooks’s menu—including a Dutch baby topped…

LEMON OMANI (DRIED BLACK LIMES) Sun-dried limes lend a subtle sour-bitter note when added whole to a curry. They can also be powdered and dusted over everything from salads to rice for a unique brightness. ($5 for 3 oz.; kalustyans.com) To Swap or Not? The Gluten-Free Flour Question Not every baked good can handle a cup-for-cup sub with one of those miraculoussounding allpurpose glutenfree flour blends. So when can you swap? Our test kitchen has learned that any wet, sugary batter can take a gluten-free mix and leave no one the wiser. (For the record, we love those from Bob’s Red Mill, Cup4Cup, and King Arthur.) But when structure and texture are at stake? That’s going to need a whole new recipe. Use this cheat sheet. —BELLE CUSHING DO IT! Muffins Quick breads Pancakes Brownies SKIP…

BACK OF THE NAPKIN NANCY MEYERS Director Nancy Meyers spends six months in an editing room fine-tuning her movies—and eating out of plastic containers. “We eat takeout for lunch and dinner six nights a week. I get so sick of it,” says the mastermind behind films like It’s Complicated and Something’s Gotta Give. It’s no surprise then that mealtime is an event when she’s in civilization, including lunches at New York’s ABC Cocina while filming The Intern (in theaters September 25). And then there was the cast and crew dinner at Nobu Malibu to celebrate the film’s wrap. “Everybody kept saying, ‘Look at these real plates! We have actual forks!’” she recalls. The only thing she never lacks on set: dessert. “The director’s chair has pockets where you’re supposed to keep your…

In This Issue

Description

Details

Reviews

Recent Digital Issues Browse all

Recent Bon Appetit Digital Issues Browse all back issues

Bon Appetit (Digital) Subscription August 1st, 2024 Issue

Bon Appetit (Digital) August 2024: $6.99

Bon Appetit (Digital) Subscription June 1st, 2024 Issue

Bon Appetit (Digital) June/July 2024: $6.99

Bon Appetit (Digital) Subscription May 1st, 2024 Issue

Bon Appetit (Digital) May 2024: $6.99

Bon Appetit (Digital) Subscription April 1st, 2024 Issue

Bon Appetit (Digital) April 2024: $6.99

Bon Appetit (Digital) Subscription March 1st, 2025 Issue

Bon Appetit (Digital) March 2025: $6.99

Bon Appetit (Digital) Subscription February 1st, 2025 Issue

Bon Appetit (Digital) February 2025: $6.99

Bon Appetit (Digital) Subscription December 1st, 2024 Issue

Bon Appetit (Digital) December 2024/January 2025: $6.99

Bon Appetit (Digital) Subscription November 1st, 2024 Issue

Bon Appetit (Digital) November 2024: $6.99

Bon Appetit (Digital) Subscription October 1st, 2024 Issue

Bon Appetit (Digital) October 2024: $6.99

Bon Appetit (Digital) Subscription September 1st, 2024 Issue

Bon Appetit (Digital) September 2024: $6.99

Bon Appetit (Digital) Subscription August 1st, 2024 Issue

Bon Appetit (Digital) August 2024: $6.99

Bon Appetit (Digital) Subscription June 1st, 2024 Issue

Bon Appetit (Digital) June/July 2024: $6.99

Bon Appetit (Digital) Subscription May 1st, 2024 Issue

Bon Appetit (Digital) May 2024: $6.99

Bon Appetit (Digital) Subscription April 1st, 2024 Issue

Bon Appetit (Digital) April 2024: $6.99

Bon Appetit (Digital) Subscription March 1st, 2025 Issue

Bon Appetit (Digital) March 2025: $6.99

Bon Appetit (Digital) Subscription February 1st, 2025 Issue

Bon Appetit (Digital) February 2025: $6.99

Bon Appetit (Digital) Subscription December 1st, 2024 Issue

Bon Appetit (Digital) December 2024/January 2025: $6.99

Bon Appetit (Digital) Subscription November 1st, 2024 Issue

Bon Appetit (Digital) November 2024: $6.99

Customers Also Viewed

KRASH Series (Digital) Subscription April 3rd, 2019 Issue

KRASH Series (Digital)

KRASH series/game Fortnite 11: $2.70

WIRED Magazine (Digital) Subscription March 1st, 2025 Issue

WIRED Magazine (Digital)

(370)

12 Issues: $17.99 ~~$95.88~~

Coding Academy 2015 Magazine (Digital) Subscription May 1st, 2016 Issue

Coding Academy 2015 Magazine (Digital)

Tech Guru Guide: Coding Academy 2016: $7.28

Reviews