65 Articles

There are few simple pleasures as enjoyable as riding a bicycle that almost effortlessly and silently glides along, free from annoying squeaks, creaks and grinds. Unfortunately, actually riding your bike exposes it to weather, grime and wear, so keeping it in tip-top condition takes varying degrees of knowledge, skill and time. One solution is to entrust your bike to the mechanics at your local bike shop. However, workshop costs can quickly mount up. The other way to look after your steed is to do it yourself, which is where this mag comes in. If you’re reading this, the chances are that you are the sort of person who wants to acquire the skills and knowledge necessary to maintain your own bicycle, or perhaps you’re looking to add new skills to…

8 min.

WORKSHOP SAFETY

£100 to £200 for tools and equipment ✓ Gloves ✓ Mask ✓ Goggles ✓ Pointed drift punch ✓ Bench vice ✓ Torque wrench Ok, we know you can’t wait to get stuck in with the spanners, tuning your bike up from a squeaky shopper into a slick speed machine to turn the eye of the most extravagantly equipped pro. Or at least make it a less squeaky shopping bike! Before you start though, take in these tips on how to fix things without ‘fixing’ yourself good and proper, or repairing one bit of your bike while causing damage to another in the process, with slipped spanners and the like. We’re not advocating that you cosset yourself in cotton wool. We’re just trying to make sure that when you’re done working…

7 min.

WHAT NOT TO DO!

60 mins £15 for degreaser, grease, lube ✓Spoke key ✓Grease ✓Oil ✓3, 4, 5mm Allen keys ✓Chain tool/measuring tool ✓Pressure gauge/pump ✓Torque wrench ✓Pedal spanner We all know that before you start playing around with your bike you should have a to do list in your head. This should cover what to fettle, how to work safely and which tools to use. But a list of things not to do is just as important when it comes to getting the job done properly. Here are the 10 things you should try to seriously avoid. They’re arranged in no particular order but succumbing to any one of them could put you or (even worse) your beloved machine out of action for some time, so respect them. This guide should help you…

5 min.

BASIC PRE-RIDE SAFETY CHECKS

10 mins Free ✓ Track pump ✓ Digital tyre pressure gauge ✓ Torque wrench (optional) ✓ Spoke key ✓ 3mm Allen key ✓ 4mm Allen key ✓ T25 Torx key ✓ Phillips screwdriver 1A BRAKE ORIENTATION If your bike is box fresh or borrowed it’s worth quickly checking that the brakes are your preferred way round. In the UK, we usually run our front brakes on the right. Check that the right-hand lever is connected to the front calliper and the left-hand lever to the rear calliper. 1B BRAKE PRESSURE Give the levers a firm squeeze. They should move a little way before stopping with a firm resistance. If not, they may need bleeding (assuming they’re hydraulic discs)–talk to your local bike shop if you’re not happy doing this yourself.…

6 min.

SETTING UP A TRANSMISSION

15-30 mins £10 upwards for a new chain if needed ✓ Phillips screwdriver ✓ Pliers or third hand tool ✓ 3mm and 5mm Allen keys ✓ Chain tool and lube 1 FIND STOP SCREWS With the front mech in place and the chain removed, the first step is to locate the stop screws. These control the range of motion, and are marked H (high) and L (low). They’re adjusted with a Phillips screwdriver. On a top-swing front mech, the L screw is the inner screw–it controls the limit of the mech’s inward motion. The high screw is the outermost screw and it limits the mech’s outward motion. On a bottom-swing mech, this is reversed. 2 SET FRONT SCREWS Set the L screw so that the front mech cage’s inner plate…

5 min.

SMOOTH SHIFTING

20 mins ✓ 5mm Allen key and pliers. If the adjuster is at the limit you might need a 5mm Allen key to loosen the inner cable clamp and draw the cable tight using a pair of pliers. Otherwise, this is a job for your fingers only. ✓ 14mm hex socket and bar, or appropriate size Allen key for the crank bolts. When your gears are mis-shifting then it’s almost certainly time to take a look at your gear indexing–the relationship between one click of the shifting lever and the distance moved by the front or rear mech. A correctly adjusted set-up will mean your chain can pass smoothly from one cog to another. Not knowing what bike you have, here are the three most common adjustments associated with gear systems…

2 min.

FIX SHIFTING ISSUES ON SRAM EAGLE DRIVETRAINS

10 mins £7 FOR A SRAM B-GAP TOOL ✓ 3 and 5 mm Allen keys ✓ SRAM B-gap tool 1 STAY TIGHT First off, be sure to check that the bolt which secures the derailleur (aka rear mech) to the hanger is properly tight–believe it or not, this is one of the most common causes of ropey shifting. Use a 5mm Allen key to tighten it up to 10-12Nm. 2 VIEW FROM THE BACK Shift into the smallest cassette sprocket while turning the cranks. Look at the derailleur from the rear, and adjust the high limit screw (on the left) with a 3mm Allen key, until the upper jockey wheel is aligned underneath the smallest sprocket. 3 RESET YOUR LIMITS Turning the pedals, shift into the largest cassette sprocket. Pushing…

3 min.

MAINTAIN & REPLACE BRAKE & GEAR CABLES

60 mins Brake cable kit from £4.99, Gear cable kit from £4.99 ✓ 5mm, 6mm Allen keys ✓ Cable cutter ✓ Side cutter ✓ Small file ✓ Third-hand tool (optional) ✓ Gear and brake cable sets ✓ Outer cable ferrules ✓ Insulation tape 1 ROUTINE CHECKS Modern gear and brake cables require little maintenance except to occasionally index the gears and adjust the brakes. Inspect outer cables regularly for damage where they enter the adjuster, either at the rear derailleur or on the down-tube adjusters. Lubricating inner cables attracts dirt and could do more harm than good, and for this reason many manufacturers recommend not doing so. 2 LENGTH MATTERS Check that the outer brake cable length is correct–long enough from the levers and along the bar so the bar…

5 min.

FRONT DERAILLEUR FITTING AND MAINTENANCE

30 mins £3-£30 for cables as required ✓ Small cross head screwdriver ✓ 5 and 6mm Allen keys ✓ New inner/outer cables as required If replacing a front derailleur on its own it is essential to buy the correct replacement, and this can be complicated. Front derailleurs come in different versions to suit different chainring combinations, frames, shifters, chain types and cable runs. With road bikes, front derailleurs are available for compact (typically 50/36T or 50/34T) chainrings and standard double chainring combinations, and also for triple chainrings set-ups. Braze-on or clamp-on fittings are available for several sizes of seat-tube: steel frames take 28.6mm, while 31.8mm and 34.9mm are available for use on aluminium and titanium framed bikes. Almost all road bikes use cable run from below, but it’s common practice…

6 min.

CHECKING DRIVETRAIN WEAR

60 mins £5 degreaser £5 chain lube £6 anti-seize ✓ 5mm Allen key/Torx T-30 key, ✓ Chain wear indicator, ✓ Degreaser and anti-seize, ✓ Chainring bolt extractor, ✓ Chain splitter, ✓ Chain whip, ✓ Cassette tool, ✓ Adjustable spanner, ✓ Torque wrench 1 GET CLEANING The first thing to do is to clean the chain and transmission. There’s not much difference between almost worn and worn, and having gunge stuck in the chain links isn’t going to make the precise measuring of the chain link pitch any easier. Besides all that, who wants to get covered in oil while they’re working on their bike? 2 MEASURE THE CHAIN WEAR Take your chain wear indicator–we’re using the Park Tools version here, but you could also try one from Rolhoff. Insert the…

3 min.

CHAIN & CASSETTE REPLACEMENT

60 mins From £15 for cassette From £10 for chain From £20 for tools ✓ Cassette tool ✓ Chain whip ✓ Chain tool It’s not a case of can’t, it’s more a matter of your tools not being specific to the job, or not having the confidence or knowledge to try. However, if you ride your bike a lot and you don’t clean it as frequently as you ought to, you’ll wear it out faster. Or, if you want to clean your bike more thoroughly, this is a good way to get into the bits you can’t normally reach. Maybe you want to switch to different gearing for a specific event–all of these reasons will necessitate your cassette and chain coming off. It’s worth having a cassette tool, chain whip…

6 min.

HOW TO INSTALL A DRIVETRAIN

90 mins £200 for SRAM 2x10 kit inc BB ✓ BB cup tool ✓ 2/3/4/5/6/8 and 10mm hex wrenches torque wrench ✓ Torx key ✓ Chainwhip ✓ Cassette lock ring tool ✓ Rubber mallet ✓ Cable tension tool ✓ Chain tool ✓ Cable cutters ✓ Vernier callipers ✓ Quicklink/master link pliers ✓ Grease or anti-seize ✓ Chain lube ✓ Flat-head screwdriver 1 CLEAN IT UP Give your bike a good clean, then clamp it in a workstand. Use degreaser and a rag to make sure there’s no dirt or grime left on the cranks or in the BB area. Use a pair of Power Link pliers (SRAM) or a chain tool (Shimano) to remove the chain, and place it to one side. If your bike has a chain guide, slide…

5 min.

HOW TO REPLACE A SHIMANO FREEHUB BODY

45 mins £10 upwards for a new freehub ✓ 10mm Allen key ✓ 14mm Allen key ✓ Torque wrench ✓ Flat-blade screwdriver ✓ Chain whip ✓ Cassette lockring tool ✓ T-25 Torx Key ✓ Adjustable spanner 1 GET IN POSITION No need for a workstand with this job because we’re concentrating solely on the rear wheel. So spin the bike upside down, shift it into the smallest sprocket at the back and remove the rear wheel. 2 REMOVE CASSETTE Unscrew the skewer nut, leave the skewer in place, and put the lockring tool into the lockring. Now screw the nut back on to hold it in place. With the cassette facing outwards, place the chainwhip around the sprockets with your left hand. Put the adjustable spanner onto the lockring tool…

6 min.

CONVERT 2X TO 1X

30 mins £20-£50 for narrow/wide chainring ✓ Torque wrench ✓ Rubber mallet ✓ Cable cutters–only needed for internally routed frames ✓ Master link pliers (or needle-nose pliers) ✓ Allen key set ✓ Torx key set ✓ Hollowtech II preload cap tool–only needed for Shimano cranks ✓ Chain tool ✓ Pick (can use a thin Allen key instead) ✓ Chainring bolt tool ✓ Shock pump–only needed for ✓ full-suspension bikes 1 BREAK THE CHAIN Clamp the bike in a workstand, then split the chain. If it’s a SRAM or KMC chain, use a set of master link (or needle-nose) pliers to remove the master link, by squeezing the ends together. If it’s a Shimano chain, use a chain tool to push one of the joining pins most of the way through,…

6 min.

CONVERTING TO SINGLESPEED

60 mins From £15 for singlespeed kit ✓ Relevant crank extraction tools ✓ Chainring nut tool ✓ 5mm Allen key ✓ Chainlink extractor ✓ Cassette lockring tool ✓ Adjustable spanner ✓ Torque wrench ✓ Chainwhip ✓ Pedal spanner 1 WHIP OUT THE WHEEL As with most workshop tasks, ideally you should put the bike into your workstand. If you don’t have one then you can get away with the old favourite upside-down bike technique, but be prepared to do some scrabbling round on your knees. So first up, spin it over and remove the rear wheel. 2 REMOVE CHAIN Grab your chainlink tool and remove the chain. If you have a Shimano chain, then push the pin all the way through any others and make sure the pin doesn’t get…

5 min.

REPLACE YOUR BB92 BOTTOM BRACKET

30 mins From £30 for new BB ✓ Headset press ✓ Degreaser ✓ Rubber/plastic mallet ✓ Vernier calliper ✓ Grease ✓ Chain tool or Power Link pliers ✓ 8mm Allen key ✓ 5mm Allen key ✓ Torque wrench ✓ Press-fit BB tool (Park Tool BBT-90.3 or equivalent) ✓ Shimano Hollowtech II end cap tool (Shimano FC16 or equivalent)–only needed if you have Shimano cranks ✓ Small flat-headed screwdriver ✓ Rags ✓ 17mm spanner ✓ Bike cleaner 1 REMOVE THE CHAIN Give your bike a good clean, then clamp it in a workstand. Use degreaser and a rag to make sure there’s no dirt or grime left on the cranks or in the BB area. Use a pair of Power Link pliers (SRAM) or a chain tool (Shimano) to remove the…

2 min.

HOW TO FIX A LOOSE BOTTOM BRACKET

60 mins From £10 BB spanner From £15 Torque wrench ✓ Chain tool ✓ Torque wrench ✓ Bottom bracket spanner ✓ Rubber mallet Bottom brackets are one of those industry pet peeves that have plenty of ‘standards’ but no definitive standard. It’s one of the areas of the bike that people seem most hesitant about working on. That’s understandable, it’s the part of the bike you’re more or less standing on, but with the right tools and some help, it’s pretty straightforward. Here, we show you how to solve a loose Shimano Hollowtech 2 bottom bracket, which can be caused by hasty factory installation or slight undertorquing on replacement. To tell a loose BB apart from a worn one with bearing play, take hold of each crank arm and waggle…

2 min.

STOP YOUR BRAKES RUBBING

10 mins Free ✓ Allen key set ✓ Flat-head screwdriver ✓ Rotor truing tool or adjustable spanner 1 CENTRE THE CALLIPER The easiest way to centre a brake calliper over the rotor is to loosen the calliper mounting bolts half a turn, then pull the corresponding brake lever tightly. Usually, this will align the calliper with the rotor. 2 GENTLE TIGHTENING Now comes the tricky bit–doing up the bolts without moving the calliper. The key is to tighten them a little at a time (usually with a 5mm Allen key), alternating between each bolt. This prevents the torque applied from twisting the calliper. 3 SPIN THE DISCS Once the bolts are tightened to the brake manufacturer’s recommended torque setting, spin the wheel and listen. If the rotor is no longer…

3 min.

REMOVE & REPLACE YOUR BRAKE PADS

30 mins £16 for lube and degreaser ✓ 4mm, 2mm Allen keys for Shimano ✓ 5mm Allen key or 25T ✓ Torx key for Campagnolo ✓ Surgical spirit or citrus-based cleaner to clean rims ✓ Wipes One of the fundamental ways to keep your bike in good shape is to check your brake pads and change when necessary. Rim bakes work through the friction between brake pad and rim, and over time the softer pad material will wear away. If the pad thins to beyond its wear indicator line, it’s time to change pads. If your pad doesn’t have an indicator line, change the pad when its grooves are approaching the halfway point. Poorly aligned pads may have formed a ridge–remove this with a file if you plan to keep…

3 min.

KEEPING DISC BRAKES STOPPING SWEETLY

30 mins Disc brake cleaner £9.99, Truing tool £19.99 ✓ Multi-tool with 4, 5, 6mm Allen and T25 torx keys ✓ 8 and 10mm open end spanner ✓ Disc brake cleaner spray ✓ Sandpaper or emery cloth ✓ Truing tool or adjustable spanner 1 REPLACING PADS Replace pads when they’ve worn to less than 2mm thick. Remove the wheel and ensure the calliper is clean and free of oil. On hydraulic systems gently pry the pads open with a screwdriver or tyre lever to fully retract the pistons. Remove the retaining pin (split pin or threaded) using pliers or a hex key. Remove the old pads and return the spring. Clean off any remaining dirt before inserting new pads and spring. Reinstall the retaining pin. 2 LINE UP When refitting…

6 min.

HOW TO BLEED SRAM GUIDE BRAKES

30 mins per brake £25-£45 for a SRAM bleed kit ✓ Toe strap (or rubber band) ✓ 12mm ring spanner ✓ SRAM bleed syringes ✓ T25 and T10 Torx keys ✓ 5mm Allen key ✓ Plastic bleed spacer ✓ Plastic pad separator tool ✓ Workshop gloves ✓ Disc brake cleaner (can use isopropyl alcohol instead) ✓ Workshop rags ✓ Protective glasses ✓ Freshly opened DOT 5.1 fluid ✓ Workstand 1 REMOVE THE PADS Clamp your bike in a workstand and remove the wheel and brake pads. Use the ring end of a 12mm spanner to carefully push the pistons back into their bores, then wedge a plastic bleed spacer between them. Thread the brass adapters onto the syringes. Put on safety glasses and gloves, then use fresh DOT 5.1 brake…

2 min.

S RAM BLEEDING EDGE TIPS

20 mins Cost £66 for SRAM bleed kit, £6 for box of nitrile gloves ✓ Nitrile gloves ✓ Flat-head screwdriver ✓ SRAM bleed kit inc. DOT 5.1 fluid ✓ Torx key set ✓ Allen key set ✓ Rag 1 ON THE BLOCKS Remove the wheel. Slide a broad, flat screwdriver between the brake pads and lever them apart. Remove the clip on the pad pin with pliers, and use a 2.5mm Allen key to unscrew the pin. Slide the pads out, push a bleed block into the calliper and replace the pad pin. Put on gloves. 2 FLUID MOVEMENTS Thread the Bleeding Edge (BE) tool onto the calliper syringe and a threaded bleeding tip onto the lever syringe. Add SRAM DOT fluid to the calliper (quarter full) and lever (three-quarters…

6 min.

TRIM AND BLEED SHIMANO BRAKE HOSES

30 mins Hose olive & crush washer £6, brake oil £13, bleed kit approx £30 ✓ Shimano bleed kit ✓ 2/2.5/3/ 4mm Allen key ✓ 7/8mm open wrench ✓ Torque wrench ✓ Plastic tyre lever ✓ Philips screwdriver ✓ Hose cutters ✓ Oil pan or bucket ✓ Isopropyl alcohol ✓ Bleed bottle ✓ Section of clear hose ✓ Bleed blocks ✓ Workshop vice/clamp ✓ Bike stand ✓ Rags ✓ Marker pen ✓ Mallet 1 CLEAN UP Before you start, it makes things easier if you give your bike a thorough clean. Focus on areas near and around the brake callipers and hoses. Wipe down with a rag to dry them out as much as possible. As with many other workshop tasks, it’s much easier with the bike in a stand,…

5 min.

BLEEDING FORMULA HYDRAULIC BRAKES

60 mins £20 for Formula bleed kit ✓ Brake cleaner ✓ 2 T10 Torx key ✓ 4mm Allen key ✓ 3mm Allen key ✓ 2.5mm Allen key ✓ Torque wrench ✓ Rag ✓ Waste brake fluid tray/plastic tub ✓ DOT 4 brake fluid ✓ Formula pad spacer ✓ 10 Formula bleed kit ✓ Workstand ✓ Ziptie ✓ Latex gloves 1 WEDGE THE PAD Clamp your bike in a workstand. Remove the front wheel if you want to bleed the front brake, and vice versa. Check that the brake pads still have a good amount of material left but leave/refit them in the calliper. Then carefully wedge the Formula pad spacer that should have been supplied with your brakes or bike in between the pads, pushing the pistons back into their…

5 min.

HOW TO BLEED YOUR MAGURA MT5 BRAKES

40 mins £15 for Magura bleed kit and mineral oil ✓ Magura pad spacers ✓ Magura bleed kit including mineral oil ✓ Clean rags or paper towels ✓ Workshop gloves ✓ 5mm Allen key to remove calliper ✓ 8mm spanner ✓ T25 Torx key ✓ Brake cleaner ✓ Rubber bands ✓ Workstand 1 GET BIKE IN POSITION Clamp the bike in a workstand, angling it so that the bleed port on the calliper you want to bleed is at the highest point of the calliper. For the front brake, the bike needs to be upright. For the rear, you may have to remove the calliper from the frame. Use a 5mm Allen key to undo the bolts, turning them anticlockwise and position the calliper so the bleed port is on…

5 min.

CHANGING A HYDRAULIC DISC BRAKE HOSE

45 mins £19-35 for hose kit and fluid ✓ Protective vinyl gloves, ✓ Bleed kit, ✓ Fluid and instructions (brand specific, so check if you need DOT or mineral oil for your system), ✓ Hose replacement kit, ✓ Knife or cable cutters, ✓ 4 & 5mm Allen keys, ✓ Torx T-25 driver, ✓ 8mm or 6mm spanners 1 MEASURE UP Measure the replacement hose against the old hose still on the bike, making sure that you route it exactly as you would once it’s fitted. Ensure that there is enough hose for when the suspension is fully extended and compressed. Activate the suspension and check any adjustable travel/geometry settings to prevent problems. 2 CUT THE HOSE TO FIT Cut the hose to length using a sharp Stanley knife if you’re…

3 min.

FIT POST MOUNT DISC BRAKES

10-30 mins No more then the price of a zip tie or elastic band ✓ Zip tie or elastic band, ✓ Adjustable spanner/ ✓ rotor truing tools, ✓ Flat-head screwdriver or brake pad separator, ✓ 5mm Allen key Disc brakes come in two main varieties: those that use the International Standard (IS) mounting system developed in 2000, and those with the older Post Mount (PM) system, as used by Hayes. IS brakes are generally heavier and more fiddly to set up, and although IS has been the main standard for some time, the old PM system is fast becoming recognised for its benefits and is being offered by traditionally IS brands, including Shimano and Hope. 1 FIT IS TO PM ADAPTOR PM callipers usually incorporate a two-part mount using an…

6 min.

WHEEL CHECK AND TRUE-UP

60 mins per wheel £5+ for spoke key ✓ Spoke key (make sure you get the right size/type for your wheels) ✓ Ballpoint pen or lolly stick ✓ Permanent marker pen (can also use small stickers) ✓ Tape measure ✓ Rubber band 1 REMOVE TYRE AND TUBE To check if a wheel is true, start by turning your bike upside down or clamping it in a workstand. Remove the wheel you’re going to work on–in this case, the rear–from the bike. Remove the tyre and tube, then refit the wheel in the frame. Check the spokes are all tensioned by giving each pair a light squeeze between your thumb and forefinger. 2 CHECK SPOKE TENSION If there are any loose spokes or if they all seem a bit baggy, this…

5 min.

REPLACING A DAMAGED RIM

60 mins £15-£750 depending on the rim ✓ Rim tape ✓ Spoke key ✓ Spoke tension metre ✓ Insulation tape ✓ Truing stand ✓ Appropriate nipple driver ✓ Metal rule 1 REPLACE RIM ’s best to replace your rim with a matching model. This will make it easier, and your spoke lengths will be unaffected. If you can’t get hold of an identical rim, look for a rim with the same ERD number as your old rim, or one within a couple of mm. If spoke lengths are different, then a straight rim swap won’t work–you’d need to rebuild your wheel from scratch. 2 REMOVE WHEEL Remove the wheel from the bike, making sure it’s clean. Remove the tyre and tube, followed by the rim tape. Clean the rim bed…

7 min.

REFRESH YOUR WHEELS

60 mins £10 TO £100 FOR VARIOUS PARTS Home truing stand (around £20) Spoke key (£5-£10) Wheels are the number one target for upgrading on any bike, but they don’t come cheap. So, how about spending more time than cash, and refreshing your existing wheels back to their best? Here we’ll show you how to gain a significant advantage by simply sprucing up your tired wheels with a bit of TLC and a modest budget. Whether you have handmade or factory pre-built wheels, some or all of these steps should add up to an improvement in speed and acceleration, especially over longer distances. If in doubt about your abilities on the more technical steps, get them done by a trusted professional mechanic. Expect to pay about £15 to £20 per…

2 min.

TURN YOUR WHEELS TUBELESS

20 mins £20 for tape, valves & sealant ✓ Tubeless/Gorilla tape ✓ Pick ✓ Tubeless valves ✓ Tubeless sealant ✓ Track pump ✓ Valve core removal tool (optional) ✓ Tubeless inflator (optional) 1 DETUBE YOUR WHEEL Remove the tyre and inner tube from the wheel. If a rim strip is fitted, take that off too. Newer wheels may come with tubeless rim tape applied instead, to seal up the spoke holes. If this is in good condition, skip to step 4. If it’s damaged, remove it. Clean the rim and let it dry. 2 TAPE IT UP Take some new tubeless tape (or Gorilla tape) that’s just narrower than the rim bed. Starting opposite the valve hole, carefully apply the tape to the rim bed, making sure to keep it…

3 min.

DITCH THE TUBES FOR A SMOOTHER RIDE

60 mins £20 for tape, valves & sealant. From £40 for tubeless inflator ✓ Tubeless/Gorilla tape ✓ Pick ✓ Tubeless valves ✓ Tubeless sealant ✓ Track pump ✓ Valve core removal tool (optional) ✓ Tubeless inflator Much has been made of the pros and cons of tubeless tyres. In our experience, the benefits outweigh the drawbacks considerably. The system works out lighter, the tyre is suppler without the extra material inside it so it’s a comfier ride, and the chance of a puncture is greatly reduced. Yes, it’s a bit of a faff if it does go wrong and it sometimes takes a bit of setting up but I don’t know many people who’ve made the switch and subsequently reverted to tubes. The learning curve for manufacturers has been fairly…

6 min.

HOW TO FIX A PUNCTURE

30 mins £2 for a repair kit £5 for a new tube ✓ Pump (a track pump is best) ✓ Marker pen ✓ Needle-nose pliers ✓ Allen key set ✓ Tyre levers ✓ Puncture repair kit (containing patches, glue, sandpaper, chalk) ✓ Washing-up bowl 1 CLEAN BIKE AND WHEELS Give your bike a good clean before attempting to fix the puncture. Pay particular attention to the wheel with the flat tyre, making sure you get rid of all the muck. Give the bike a quick wipe down to dry it, then either clamp it in a workstand or flip it upside-down. 2 INSPECT FOR DAMAGE Rotate the wheel in the frame/fork and inspect the tyre for damage. If you find any, note where it is in relation to the tyre.…

5 min.

REPLACING REAR HOPE PRO II MAIN BEARINGS

45 mins About £40 ✓ Soft hammer ✓ Vice ✓ Teflon grease ✓ Methylated spirits ✓ Seal tool HT175 ✓ Hub bearing tool HTT174 (obligatory) ✓ 2 x 61903RS bearings ✓ Disc-side seal ✓ Cassette body seal tool HTT175 ✓ Torque wrench ✓ Wooden blocks ✓ T-25 Torx key 1 WHIP OUT THE WHEEL There’s no need for a workstand with this job, because we’re concentrating solely on the rear wheel. So spin the bike upside down, shift the rear gear into the smallest sprocket at the back and remove the wheel. 2 REMOVE CASSETTE Unscrew the skewer nut, but leave the skewer in place and put the lockring tool into the lockring. Now screw the nut back on to hold it in place. With the cassette facing outwards, place…

4 min.

SERVICING BEARINGS

60 mins Around £10 for the degreaser and grease, ✓ Lint-free rag, ✓ Scalpel, grease (with gun), ✓ Cone spanners, ✓ Degreaser (with straw nozzle) TIP Use some workshop rubber gloves to protect your hands when working with grease. They’re thin enough to let you can work on the smallest of parts without any loss of feeling, and you’ll have less scrubbing to do when you clean up afterwards. 1 REMOVE THE SEAL Once you have removed the bearing from the headset, you need a sharp scalpel blade and a steady hand to slide the tip of the blade between the outer steel case of the bearing and the outer edge of the black (sometimes orange) seal. With the tip under the seal, gently twist the blade towards the inside…

1 min.

SERVICE YOUR CUP & CONE BEARING HUBS

30 mins From £10 for cone spanners & grease 1 UNDO LOCKNUT For rear wheels, first remove the cassette. Undo the lock nut on the non-driveside using a cone spanner. Remove the locking nut and spacer by hand. 2 REMOVE CONE Hold the lock nut on the driveside with one spanner, then undo the non-driveside cone with another and wind it off by hand. Now remove the axle from the hub. 3 REMOVE BEARINGS Carefully remove the bearings from the race, a magnetic screwdriver will help. Clean the bearings and races using degreaser and some paper cloth. If there are signs of wear in cups and cones they’ll need replacing. 4 APPLY GREASE Apply a healthy dose of grease to the bearing race in the hub. Place the bearings into…

6 min.

FITTING A NEW FORK

40-90 mins Price of a new fork ✓ 4 and 5mm Allen keys ✓ Rubber mallet ✓ Headset grease ✓ Large flat-bladed screwdriver ✓ Crown race installer ✓ Tape measure ✓ Steerer saw guide ✓ Flat and round files ✓ Star-fangled nut installation tool ✓ Torque wrench 1 SUPPORT AND PREPARE To remove the outgoing set of forks, place the bike into a workstand by clamping via the seatpost and then drop the front wheel out of the forks. Remove the disc brake calliper from the fork using the correct Allen key and remember to keep everything together and in the order you removed them to make reassembly easier. 2 UNDO STEM CLAMPS Using a 4mm Allen key, undo and remove the stem top cap and compression bolt that serves…

6 min.

SETTING UP YOUR AIR FORK

60 mins Free ✓ Shock pump ✓ Tape measure ✓ Zip ties ✓ Fork manual ✓ Lint-free cloth TIP Give the fork a thorough clean. Even small amounts of dirt in seals or in the stanchions can cause the action of the fork to be impaired. A simple regular wipe-down with a lint-free cloth is enough to keep it healthy. 1 LOCATE AIR VALVE Most forks these days use air as the main spring. Air is light, easy to work with and, for the time being at least, free. Most modern suspension forks have at least one externally adjustable feature, typically the air chamber. This is usually accessed through a Schrader air valve which will normally be hiding under a protective cap on the top of the left fork leg.…

3 min.

HOW TO SET UP YOUR SUSPENSION

30 mins Free ✓ Tape measure (if no sag markings) ✓ Shock pump 1 ARE YOU FEELING SAG? It’s vital that the suspension sags into its travel under your weight, so that it can extend into holes as well as compress over bumps, boosting traction and control. Setting the right amount of sag, taking into account your weight and the available travel, will ensure the suspension is stiff enough to maintain the bike’s intended ride height and geometry. Most forks and shocks are air-sprung, so the sag is set by adjusting the air pressure. 2 FIND YOUR STROKE On a full-suspension bike, start with the shock. If it doesn’t have sag markings on the shaft, you’ll need to know what stroke it has. This is sometimes written on the shock…

6 min.

SETTING UP YOUR AIR REAR SUSPENSION

40 mins Free ✓ Shock pump ✓ Tape measure ✓ Zip ties ✓ Shock manual 1 LOCATE AIR VALVE Air shocks are the best choice for general purpose cross-country and all-mountain style riding. Air shocks require air to be added to the spring, and this is done via a Schrader valve fitting that’s found on the shock body. Before you think about adding any air, you should first remove the air from the shock and fully compress it. This will show you the total available travel of your particular rear shock. 2 ADD ZIP TIE Fit a zip tie around the shaft of the rear shock. Make sure it’s tight: it won’t harm the performance of the rear shock, and will stop it moving from vibrations. The zip tie will…

3 min.

FORK SET-UP

60 mins £15-35 for fork springs £20-50 for a shock spring 1 CHECKING FORK SAG Move the O-ring around your stanchion down so it’s sitting on the dust seal. If you have no O-ring, loosely fit a zip-tie to the fork. Mount your bike fully kitted up and get into an aggressive riding position. You should be using around 25-30% of your fork’s total travel as sag. If you’re using too much or too little of your fork’s travel, a change of coil spring is needed. 2 ADJUSTING PRELOAD The preload adjuster on the top of the left leg compresses the spring and changes the fork’s feel. Wind it clockwise to make the spring feel harder or anti-clockwise to soften it up. If you can’t sort out your sag issues…

3 min.

SHOCK SET-UP

✓ Shock pump (if you have an air or air assist fork) ✓ tape measure ✓ zip ties 1 SETTING UP SAG 1 Sit on your bike fully kitted up in riding gear. Get a mate to measure the shock’s compressed eye-toeye length while you’re sitting on it. Subtract the compressed (sagged) measurement from the total eye-to-eye shock length. This is your sag in mm. 2 SETTING UP SAG 2 You need to know your shock stroke to calculate your sag percentage; it’s written in the shock’s user manual. Divide the sag measurement (mm) by the shock stroke and multiply it by 100 to get the sag percentage. For downhill we’d recommend 35%. Alter spring preload by up to two turns or switch the spring to achieve optimal sag. If…

4 min.

HOW TO SERVICE YOUR ROCKSHOX FORK’S LOWERS

60 mins £30 FOR FRESH SEALS (IF NEEDED) AND OIL ✓ Allen keys ✓ Rubber mallet ✓ Workstand ✓ Shock pump ✓ Syringe ✓ Small tub ✓ Plastic tyre lever ✓ Long dowel or similar 1 USE A WORKSTAND If you have a sturdy workstand, it’s quicker to service the fork on the bike (as shown here). If not, you’ll need to remove the fork from the bike first. Detach the front wheel, brake calliper and hose clamp, then secure the calliper to the workstand with a ziptie or similar. 2 CLEAN UP FIRST Give the fork a thorough clean to stop any dirt getting inside, using a soft brush and rags. Unscrew the valve cap and use a shock pump to record the pressure in the air spring. Note…

2 min.

FIT VOLUME SPACERS IN A FOX FORK*

20 mins £3 per spacer ✓ Shock pump ✓ Allen key set ✓ 27mm socket and wrench ✓ Fox volume spacers 1 FEEL THE PRESSURE Ensuring your bike is clean, clamp it in a workstand. Remove the air-valve dust cap on top of the left fork leg, turning it anticlockwise by hand, and put it somewhere safe. Connect a shock pump to the valve to measure the pressure in the air spring. 2 RELIEVE THE PRESSURE Note this pressure down. Then remove the pump and press a small Allen key (or similar) into the valve to release all the air from the fork. 3 TAKE THE CAP OFF Use a 27mm socket and wrench to remove the airspring top cap. Ensure the socket is pressed firmly onto the top cap…

4 min.

SERVICE YOUR ROCKSHOX DELUXE OR SUPERDELUXE SHOCK

60 mins £44 for RockShox air can seal kit ✓ Allen keys ✓ Shock pump ✓ Clean rags ✓ Sockets ✓ Vice 1 SHOCK TACTICS First, remove the shock from the bike (following the frame manufacturer’s instructions). This usually just involves unscrewing an eyelet bolt at each end of the shock. Clean the shock to prevent any dirt getting in. Slide off the red sag-indicator 2 TAKE THE PRESSURE Remove the air-valve dust cap and attach a shock pump. Take a note of the air pressure, then press the pump’s air bleed button to slowly release the air. Remove the pump and press a small Allen key into the valve to ensure that any remaining air escapes. 3 REMOVE HARDWARE Remove the hardware from the shaft (thin) end of the…

4 min.

SERVICE YOUR FOX FLOAT’S SHOCKS AIR CAN

60mins £24 for Fox air can seal kit ✓ Allen keys ✓ Shock pump ✓ Fox air can seal kit ✓ Vice ✓ Sockets ✓ Clean rags 1 REMOVE THE SHOCK Remove the shock from the frame, following the frame manufacturer’s instructions. This usually involves undoing the eyelet bolts at each end of the shock. Give the shock a good clean, then remove the sag indicator. 2 RELEASE THE AIR Unscrew the air-valve dust cap, then attach a shock pump. Note the air pressure, then press the pump’s air bleed button to release air from the shock. Remove the pump and press an Allen key onto the Schrader valve to allow any remaining air to escape. 3 REMOVE HARDWARE Remove the metal hardware from the thin end (shaft) of the…

2 min.

SETTING UP YOUR COCKPIT

15 mins Free ✓ Allen key set ✓ Torx key set (needed for some bikes) 1 TRY THIS FIRST Bar height is an adjustment that takes experimentation to get right, so that your body is in a good position and your weight is well-distributed. For trail/enduro riding, a good starting point is to set the bar so that the grips are level with (or slightly below) the saddle at full pedalling height. 2 SPACERS EXPLORATION To adjust the bar height, remove the headset top-cap bolt, loosen the stem clamp bolts and slide the stem off the fork’s steerer tube. Put spacers below the stem to increase bar height or vice versa. Refit the stem, tighten the top-cap, align the stem and tighten the stem bolts. 3 ROLL WITH IT Consider…

3 min.

CUT YOUR HANDLEBAR DOWN

60 mins £25 for pipe cutter ✓ Allen key set ✓ Torx key set (for some bikes) ✓ Pipe cutter or hacksaw with correct blade for alloy or carbon ✓ Saw guide (if using saw) ✓ Vice (if using saw) ✓ Masking tape (if bar is carbon) ✓ File 1 GET A GRIP Before you cut, you need to work out your ideal bar width. If you have lock-on grips with open ends, try sliding them inboard by 5mm. Go for a gentle spin to get a feel for the difference. Repeat until you’re happy with the hand position, then mark the bar at the outer edge of the grips. 2 MAKE THE CUT If your bike has an alloy bar, the best tool to cut it with is a…

7 min.

INSTALLING A HANDLEBAR AND STEM

1-2hrs £20-£900 for parts ✓ 4, 5, 6mm Allen keys ✓ Screwdriver ✓ Cable and side cutters ✓ Anti-seize grease ✓ Loctite, fine emery paper There are two main types of handlebar stems: threadless (also known as Aheadset) and expander bolt with quill, which is a much older style. Threadless stems clamp around the fork’s steerer which, as the name suggests, isn’t threaded. The stem effectively becomes part of the headset system, which is adjusted by tightening the Allen bolt in the top cap. Bar height is adjusted by installing spacers either below or above the stem. Most bikes use the threadless-type stem and headset. The older-style stem, with expander bolt and quill, slides into the steerer and is fastened in place by an Allen bolt that pulls on either…

5 min.

ADJUSTING YOUR CONTACT POINTS

30 mins £None ✓ Spirit level ✓ Allen key set ✓ Torx key set ✓ Grease ✓ Torque wrench and bits 1A CHECK THE ANGLE If the nose of your saddle is angled too far you’ll waste energy constantly trying to correct your body position. It should be sat roughly horizontal, though if you spend a lot of time climbing, tipping the nose down slightly can improve comfort and your position on the bike. If you need to change the angle, first note where the saddle rails are clamped by the seatpost. 1B SINGLE-BOLT CLAMP If your seatpost has a single-bolt saddle clamp, use the appropriately sized Allen or Torx key to turn the bolt anticlockwise until it’s loose enough that you can adjust the saddle angle. Tilt the saddle…

2 min.

FINDING THE RIGHT SADDLE HEIGHT

5 mins Free ✓ Allen key set ✓ Torx key set (some bikes) 1 LOOSEN THE CLAMP First, loosen the seat clamp so that the seatpost slides freely in the frame. If your bike has a quick-release (QR) clamp, swing the lever open. On a non-QR clamp, turn the clamp bolt anticlockwise with the correct size Allen or Torx key. 2 AT ARM’S LENGTH A quick hack to get the height in the right ballpark is to use the length of your arm. Reach over the bike and, with the saddle cradled in your armpit, adjust the height of the seatpost until you can just reach the centre of the crank axle with your fingertips. 3 STRAIGHT KNEE STYLE Another method is to sit on the bike, leaning against something…

2 min.

ADJUST YOUR SADDLE ANGLE

5 mins Free 1 WHAT’S YOUR ANGLE? On a hardtail, it’s usually comfiest to have the seat roughly level. On a full-suspension bike, it can be good to tip the nose down slightly, to compensate for the fact that the rear suspension sags considerably further than the fork when you’re sat in the saddle. 2 TWIN PEAKS If your seatpost has a twin-bolt clamp (skip to step 6 if you have a single-bolt post) and you want to tilt the saddle nose down, use the correct size Allen key (usually 5mm) to loosen the rearmost bolt a few turns (anticlockwise). To tilt the nose up, loosen the front bolt. 3 BACK AND FORTH While the bolts are loose, think about adjusting the fore-aft position of the saddle. Sliding it forwards…

6 min.

SETTING UP SPD PEDALS & CLEATS

30 mins £10 for grease and anti-seize plus tools ✓ Pedal spanner or 6/8mm Allen key depending on your pedal, ✓ 3mm and 4mm Allen keys, ✓ Grease anti-seize, ✓ Pen or marker, ✓ Sharp knife if shoe tread needs customising 1 BEFORE YOU START Shimano pedals are marked with a left and right indicator on the body of the axle of the pedal. When installing the pedal, it’s easy to get confused which way tightens and which way loosens. Just remember that with your bike upright, turning the pedal in the direction of the pedal stroke tightens it, and turning it in the opposite direction of your pedal stroke loosens it. 2 REMOVE PEDALS If your pedals are hard to remove, use a pedal wrench to increase the leverage–or…

2 min.

SERVICE YOUR CRANKBROTHERS MALLET PEDALS

20 mins £20 for Crankbrothers pedal refresh kit ✓ Allen keys ✓ T25 Torx key ✓ Sockets ✓ Hammer ✓ Fine screwdriver ✓ Stanley knife ✓ Rags ✓ Grease 1 SLIDE OUT THE SPINDLE Use a 6mm Allen key to unscrew the end cap on the outboard edge of the pedal. With an 8mm Allen key inserted into the spindle, use an 8mm socket to turn the nut inside the pedal body anticlockwise. Remove the nut and slide the spindle out of the pedal. manufacturers recommend not doing so. 2 DECONSTRUCT THE PEDAL With a T25 Torx key, remove the two bolts in the holes in the pedal body. Pull the pedal body apart, slide a Stanley knife under the plastic bushes that sit on the inside of the two…

5 min.

REPLACE YOUR HEADSET

40 mins Varies ✓ Headset press ✓ Headset removal tool(s) ✓ Grease ✓ Degreaser ✓ Rubber mallet ✓ Torque wrench ✓ Allen key set (plus Torx keys if needed to remove controls) ✓ Ziptie ✓ Cleaning rags 1 REMOVE FRONT BRAKE Ensure your bike is clean and clamp it securely in a workstand. Remove the front wheel. Undo the bolts securing the front brake lever to the handlebar, turning them anticlockwise with the appropriate tool. Put the bolts and lever clamp somewhere clean and safe. Allow the lever body to hang by the fork. 2 REMOVE OTHER CONTROLS Now remove the rest of the controls–shifter(s), rear brake lever, dropper post lever–from the bar, using the appropriate Allen and/or Torx keys and turning them anticlockwise. If the controls have split clamps,…

6 min.

HOW TO FIT A CANE CREEK ANGLESET

1 hr 30 mins From £150 for Angleset ✓ Rag ✓ Vernier calliper ✓ Allen key set ✓ Headset reamer/facer ✓ Headset press ✓ Headset cup remover ✓ Rubber mallet ✓ Metal ruler ✓ High quality thick grease ✓ Thin felt marker pen ✓ Crown race remover ✓ Crown race setter 1 REMOVE BARS AND FORK Clean your bike and clamp it in a workstand. Remove the front wheel and front brake calliper. Place the brake assembly (calliper and hose) out of the way. Remove the stem top cap and loosen the steerer clamp bolts. Remove the stem from the steerer and the fork from the head tube. A light tap with a rubber mallet may be needed to get it moving. 2 REMOVE OLD HEADSET Remove any loose parts…

6 min.

CLEANING YOUR BIKE

60 mins £15 for degreaser, grease, lube ✓ Bucket of hot, soapy water ✓ Brushes and sponges ✓ Old toothbrush and spoke ✓ Flat-blade screwdriver ✓ Degreaser ✓ Grease ✓ Chain lube ✓ Polish and rags 1 SCRUB CHAIN The chain is the most important part of the transmission. Fill a bucket with hot water, wearing rubber gloves will help you use hotter, more effective water, then add regular washing-up liquid. Alternatively use a pre-prepared bike cleaner. With the chain in the biggest gear, apply the mixture vigorously using a stiff bristle scrubbing brush. You’ll see a bright, shining chain emerge. 2 DEGREASE CHAIN With the chain free from dirt, apply a biodegradable degreaser to the chain and allow it to soak into all the links. This will remove any…

6 min.

SETTING UP YOUR BIKE FOR THE SUMMER

up to 2 hrs 0-£50 ✓ Allen keys ✓ Tyre sealant ✓ Rags ✓ Cleaning kit, ✓ Cotton buds ✓ Spoke key 1 SPRING CLEAN You can’t do anything useful with a dirty bike, so wash it. Not just the standard post-ride swill off either, we mean the real hour-long scrub fest. Using water as hot as you can stand and some sort of cleaner like Muc-Off or Fenwick’s will help move the stubborn stuff, as will some mild washing up liquid. Get rid of all that accumulated filth. 2 SPONGE IT OFF A big soft car-type sponge is the best bet for generating the right amount of suds. The surface is abrasive enough to remove the grime but not to damage the paint. Don’t touch the chain or gears…

5 min.

WINTERISE YOUR BIKE

60-120 mins £0-100 ✓ Old inner tube ✓ Scissors ✓ Bike cleaner ✓ Brush ✓ Rag ✓ Snips ✓ Grease/grease gun ✓ Wet lube ✓ Cable ties ✓ Stanley knife SEAT TUBE SEAL UP It’s simple but will help keep mud and water out of your frame. Remove your seatpost and wipe grease around the inside of your frame’s seat tube. It only needs to be a light covering, not a smothering, as too much will stop your seat clamp from working effectively. WASH AND GO It’s blatantly obvious, but keep your bike clean. A quick wash and lube of the chain after every ride will keep your bike running smoothly for far longer than if you decide to leave it unwashed every now and then. Muc-Off cleaner does a…

1 min.

READY YOUR ROAD BIKE FOR THE WINTER

60 mins From £5 for mudguards 1 LUBRICATE Metal frames can corrode from the inside out, so spray lube into the tubes, gently move the bike around to coat the inside evenly. Allow it to settle and then wipe off the excess. 2 ADD MUDGUARDS Mudguards are probably the most important winter accessory. They’ll prolong the life of your bike, components, and improve your comfort, but check for clearances. 3 PUNCTURE PROTECTION Install Slime-filled tubes or Kevlar-belted tyres for winter; the small sacrifice in ride quality and weight is worth it. Inspect rim strips for wear and make sure they adequately cover the spoke holes. 4 GO STAINLESS Stainless steel items like gear and brake cables, chains and fasteners can help keep your bike rustfree. Most shops will stock a…

4 min.

FIX THOSE ANNOYING NOISES

30 mins ✓ Allen keys ✓ Torx keys ✓ Cable trimmers ✓ Lockring tool ✓ Wrench ✓ Grease, anti-seize ✓ Lube ✓ Copper slip ✓ Chain tool ✓ Rags ✓ Zip ties £15 for degreaser, grease, lube 1 CRANK BOLTS A common cause of creaking is loose crank bolts, particularly on square taper and splined axles. Twopiece-style external bottom bracket cranks, such as Shimano’s Hollowtech II, can creak if pinch bolts are loose. Remove and clean the crank bolts. Check if the bottom bracket has developed bearing play; if so, replace it. Check cranks with separate spiders for tightness because loose spiders will creak. 2 SHOE CLEATS Clipless pedal systems rely on the secure interface between the shoe cleat and the pedal itself; sometimes a cleat can work loose and…

7 min.

EMERGENCY REPAIRS

VARIOUS Free-ish Although most of you will have the basics of a pump, multi-tool and a spare inner tube or two, it doesn’t hurt to make up a handy survival kit, small enough to be attached permanently somewhere unobtrusive on the bike, such as under the saddle. Use a small container, such as an old Tip-Top patch kit box or a 35mm film canister, and fill it with the following items, packing them in tightly so as not to rattle: ✓ A number of small and medium zip-ties ✓ A small piece of cut-down Biro casing wrapped with a length of duct tape ✓ One or two SRAM power links of correct width (9 and/or 10-speed). These links will work with most chains ✓ A small stretch of malleable wire…

6 min.

POST-CRASH SAFETY CHECKS

60-120 mins £0-100 ✓ Old inner tube ✓ Scissors ✓ Bike cleaner ✓ Brush ✓ Rag ✓ Snips ✓ Grease/grease gun ✓ Wet lube ✓ Cable ties ✓ Stanley knife Crashing is always memorable even if you manage to walk away. But when you’ve recovered, and are ready to ride again, you’ll first want to make sure your bike is still safe to ride. Your most important tool is probably your eyes, to check relative alignments, although in this age of carbon and heat-treated aluminium, damage can be tricky or impossible to spot. As well as the checks listed on these pages, attempt to determine the severity of the impact and the forces the bike will have been subjected to by visualising what the bike might have done. A mental…

5 min.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE

10 mins per process Free! ✓ Grease and grease gun ✓ Hose cutter ✓ Torx key set ✓ Allen key set ✓ Rags ✓ Insulation tape ✓ Sharp knife ✓ Wire snips ✓ Cable cutters ✓ Light lubricant ✓ Bike cleaner ✓ Pliers ✓ Welding rod 1A REMOVE CABLE If cables are already fitted, it’s important to leave the inner cable fixed in the shifter to begin with and only remove the outer. (If cables aren’t already fitted, skip to 1b.) Undo the cable clamp bolt on the rear mech, grasp the outer cable where it exits the frame at the rear and pull it all the way out. You may need to do this in stages if the cable continues through the stays. 1B THREAD NEW CABLE With the…

4 min.

GLOSSARY

650B: Another name for 27.5in MTB wheels. Bigger than the old standard 26in, but smaller than 29in 700C: The metric version of the old 27in wheel size. Standard for road bikes AHEADSET: Threadless headset standard that uses a top cap to tension the bearings by putting load through the stem and spacers on the fork’s steerer. Now near universal BEAD: The part of a tyre that tucks in the rim BOTTOM BRACKET: The axle and bearing assembly the cranks fit onto CADENCE: Term for the speed at which you are pedalling, in revs per minute CASSETTE: The collection of rear cogs, typically with 7-11 gears (speeds). Written as ‘11-speed’. Various sizes available to suit the type of riding CHAINRINGS: The front cogs, attached to the right crank arm. Come in…

Click stars to rate

Please select a rating for the review.

Please enter title for the review.

Please enter content for the review.

Please enter order number.

Please enter your first name and last name.

Only letters allowed for first name and last name.

Please enter your email.

Upload photo

Cancel Submit

Processing...

Thank you for your feedback! Your review has been submitted and will be published soon.

Be the first to ask a question about this product

Please enter content for the question.

Please enter at least 10 characters.

Your question can not be more than 150 characters.

Submit Processing...

Thank you for your question! Your question has been submitted and will be published soon.

Answer this question

Please enter content for the answer.

Submit Cancel Processing...

Thank you for your answer! Your answer has been submitted and will be published soon.

Bike Repair and Maintenance Magazine (Digital)

In This Issue

Description

Details

Reviews

About Bike Repair and Maintenance

Recent Bike Repair and Maintenance Digital Issues Browse all back issues

Customers Also Viewed

Review this product

Be the first to ask a question about this product

Answer this question