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15 Articles

Help ! I have a fashion problem ...

“I see those culottes and flared, or wide-leg pants everywhere, but are they only for the very tall and thin?” No! As we mentioned a few issues back, culottes have made a huge comeback from decades in the fashion wilderness to become one of the freshest pant shapes of the season … but they can also be the trickiest to wear, unless you keep a few things in mind. First off, finding the right shape for you is crucial. They range from slim and just on the knee to very loose and cropped low on the calf. The Butterick style shown here is quite loose (but not too full) and cropped at the slimmest part of the leg, which is ideal if you’re worried such a style may make you look stumpy. Once…

Help ! I have a fashion problem ...

One of the most important tools in your sewing arsenal is underlining – and if you’re not familiar with all that it can do, you’re in for a treat. While interfacing strengthens a speci›c area of a garment, underlining (sometimes called interlining) supports an entire garment section. It gives subtle – and sometimes not-so-subtle – strength behind the scenes. Let’s ›nd out what underlining’s can do, how to choose them, and how to apply them to the fashion fabric. What underlining does? Underlining is joined to the fashion fabric early in the construction process, and from that point onward, the two layers function as one. Its presence reduces wrinkling, it absorbs perspiration, and importantly, it gives a layer to which hand stitches can be caught. See photo 1. The hemstitches of a satin dress…

ALL LACED UP in this season’s newest ivory and ebony laces. Featuring new machinery techniques these fabrics include mesh bases with appliqué ribbons, ›oral tributes and Roaring Twenties fringing. The newest way of wearing these fabrics is to add a peach or dusty pink underlay – very French! Perfect for Mother-of-the-Bride, bridesmaids, second and third time round brides and for just looking DESIGNER CHIC! Happy sewing – David Tinworth, Martin & Savage Fabrics – david@mands.com.au 1. Eloise 15009, design: 14600, 100% nylon, colour: Ivory, 130/135cm wide. 2. Silk satin 22601, 100% silk, colour: Peony, 135/137cm wide. 3. Frida 16002, 100% polyester, colours: Black and Ivory (only Ivory shown), 144/147cm wide. 4. Glacier 15017, 77% polyester/13% nylon/10% spandex, colour: Black/White, 137/142cm wide. 5. Stretch Taffeta 33521, 56% polyester/38% nylon/6% spandex, colour: Pearl, 140/142cm wide. 6. Stretch Taffeta 33521, 56%…

A Pattern Guide For Different Body Shapes

Hourglass This classic feminine shape allows the most flexibility when it comes to choosing styles. You should look for styles with shaped and fitted lines that highlight your natural curves. Styles that follow your body line will draw the eye to your natural waist, enhance your bust and define your hips and bottom. A wrap dress which defines the waist is perfect. For pants, look for slim line styles that sit on the real waistline – this will accentuate your shape and lengthen your legs. Suggested styleARC patterns: Jessica Dress Tia Knit Wrap Dress Layla Dress Patti Woven Dress Willow Pant Inverted Triangle Look for styles that broaden your hips and have a plain upper body without any volume. Anything that creates volume, or design features that catch the eye, should be kept to the lower body. This will…

A Pattern Guide For Different Body Shapes

SLEEVES: The Cover Up – Part 2

If the distance from the finished armhole to the actual shoulder is more than 1 or 2cm ( 3/8 – ¾in), by inserting a sleeve the actual sleeve seam will be sitting on the shoulder line instead of a more comfortable sleeve line area. Not only will it feel strange to the wearer, it can also distort the neckline and cause drags, will not allow the sleeve to fall close to the body and will always have a distorted hemline. See photos 1 and 2. By adding more cap (head) to the sleeve most of these above problems will be alleviated. First off, to draft the basic sleeve, we will need to recreate what is missing from the armhole. Place some calico, or a piece of paper, under the upper armhole…

SLEEVES: The Cover Up – Part 2

Altering a Pattern for Large Upper Arms

Altering the sleeve pattern is a simple process, still allowing the sleeve to slip perfectly into the armhole as the pattern intends. If possible, work on a surface such as a cardboard cutting board that is marked in squares. This board will enable you to keep the pattern square and to pin the pattern in place while working, before permanently securing the cut sleeve pattern to the paper. Tissue paper over the cutting board allows the square marking to be used to its greatest potential. To decide how much to enlarge the sleeve, measure the upper arm at the armpit and further down the arm. Heavy upper arms are usually large somewhere above the elbow. If the sleeve is to be long, measure the elbow by placing the tape in the…

Altering a Pattern for Large Upper Arms

Rubbing Off a Garment

A garment that has been well worn, washed many times and is showing a few war wounds will not provide the greatest base pattern if unpicked and replicated, therefore rubbing off a shape to apply to an existing pattern is a much better idea. Tracing the shape off an existing garment will then allow you to transfer the fit features to the base pattern without fear of any distortion when the garment is finally made up. The following process shows a favourite pair of jeans that can’t be replaced, being rubbed off by using Pattern Tracing Cloth to provide a nett (seamless) shape that can then be applied to a man’s jean pattern. The base pattern has been tested for fit and will then be adjusted to give the finished garment…

Rubbing Off a Garment

SIMPLE SHAPES, CLEAN LINES, GRAPHIC PATTERNS … THE ELEMENTAL APPEAL OF A FEW GREAT PIECES - M7134 KHALIAH ALI ‘EASY’ TUNIC AND SKIRT: Very loose-fitting, pullover tunic in three versions, has neckband and narrow shaped hemline (wrong side shows). Close-fitting skirt has elasticized waist and back slit. Pattern also includes tapered pants. Designed for two-way stretch knits, such as jersey and double knit. Misses'/Women's sizes: 8 - 16/18W - 24W. M7135 KHALIAH ALI ‘EASY’ CARDIGAN, JUMPSUIT AND BELT: Semi-fitted, unlined cardigan has front extending into back collar and shaped hemline, wrong side shows. Pull-on, wide-legged jumpsuit has close-fitting, mock-wrap, blouson bodice, elasticized waist, side pockets and belt (also in dress version). Designed for two-way lightweight stretch knits, such as jerseys. Misses'/Women's sizes: 8 - 16/18W - 24W. mccallpattern…

Zippers OF THE INVISIBLE KIND

To make sewing the invisible zip easy and more successful you will need a special foot. The zipper foot you usually get with your machine will not do the job well, but you will find it useful for other tasks. There are a couple of generic invisible feet available and most machine brands have one of their own. See photo 1. Preparation is the key to success, so read these four important points before you start sewing: 1. When you start sewing your invisible zip, you will notice that you are not able to sew to the very bottom of the zip. Whatever your zip length is, you will find you will lose about 1cm to 1.5cm ( 3/8 to 5/8in) off the opening when it is finished, so if you can’t…

Zippers OF THE INVISIBLE KIND

Pattern Alterations for ‘No Dart’ Blocks

Minor width adjustments Minor adjustments can be made at bust, waist and hip level at the side seams and should not exceed 1.5cm ( 5/8in) or 6cm (2 3/8in) total. Blend the stitching and cutting lines. Adjust the sleeve at the underarm to match the altered armhole and blend the sleeve seam. See diagram 1. Sway back This alteration requires shortening the centre back length. Start by marking a horizontal guideline at the waist level. Cut along the guideline from the centre back to the side-seam stitching line, leaving a hinge. Lap out the required amount at the centre back (wedge adjustment). For a pattern featuring a centre back seam, the seam is now shaped. However, for a pattern on the centre back fold, a new foldline must be marked by joining the centre…

Pattern Alterations for ‘No Dart’ Blocks

K4114: Tops in two variations have V-neckline finished with facings, bias tape finish at armholes, princess seams, faced midriff, peplum with stitched hem and centre back zipper closure. Style shown has faced ›ange at armhole, while the other version is sleeveless with neckline trim. Designed for lightweight to medium-weight woven and knit fabrics, such as cotton types, sateen, crepe, or double knit. K4115: Tunic and dress have bust darts, extended shoulders and centre back slit opening with button and thread loop closure. Dress A has self-fabric tie belt. Tunic B has ›ared, shaped hemline. Pants C has elastic in casing at waist and pockets in side seam. Designed for lightweight to medium-weight knits and woven fabrics, such as linen, gabardine, challis, or double knits. All styles this page: Women’s sizes: 1X…

6345: (main image) Tops in four versions feature faux wrap-style with handkerchief hemline and option of contrast neck binding, also in midriff band, sleeveless V-neck and ¾-sleeve tunic. Sew in batiks, batiste, challis, charmeuse, cotton lawn, cotton types, crepe de chine, double georgette, faille, lightweight linen types, silky types or voile. 6374: (inset) Pattern includes half-sleeve top with shirt tail hem, sleeveless top with contrast yoke and band, sleeveless top with contrast yoke, and ¾-sleeve top with contrast yoke, centre front and sleeve band. Sew in batiks, chambray, chiffon, chino, cotton lawn, cotton types, crepe de chine, dotted Swiss, double georgette, eyelet, gauze, gingham, lightweight linen types, poplin, shirtings, silky types, voile. Both styles this page, Misses’ sizes: 10 – 22. New Look patterns at www.simplicity.com…

Embroidery Roses

Cut a long strip of fabric on the bias grain. The width depends on the size of the rose required. These small roses are made from strips cut 5cm (2in) wide, allowing 6mm (¼in) seams. With the right sides together, machine-stitch the length of the strip, trim the seam allowance, and turn through to right side. Press, keeping the seam at the edge of the strip, as the seam will show when the rose is complete if it is in the centre of the strip. Follow steps 1 - 5 to fold the rose: Step 1. Fold the fabric strip diagonally so a short tab of the strip comes below the bottom edge. Step 2. Fold this folded section in half again. Step 3. Fold the entire folded section over again and…

Embroidery Roses

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO UPHOLSTERY – 10 achievable DIY upholstery and reupholstery projects for your home By Vicki Grubb Have you always wanted to upcycle a chair, revamp a stool or make your own headboard but had no idea where to start, or thought it was way too difficult? Then this is the book for you! It will take you by the hand and guide you through the techniques you need to give an unloved piece of furniture a new lease of life. The ten step-by-step projects are perfect for the absolute beginner and nervous starter. They will introduce you to all you need to know about modern upholstery, from choosing the right vintage or new fabric to achieving a professional finish. RRP: $39.99 ISBN: 9781446305324 Publisher: David and Charles HAPPY FEET: Unique Knits to Knock…

10 Sewing Rules to Never Break

RULE ONE: Always pre-treat your fabric before you cut, laundering it exactly the same way you treat your finished garments. For most of us that means machine washing and line drying. Do the same with your yardage, but remember if working with a knit, to hang it on the line lengthways along the stable ‘grain’ and not crosswise, along the greatest stretch, which can distort and stretch out the whole piece. Pre-treating is particularly important with cottons and rayons, which can shrink up to 10%, and with woven interfacings that can do the same. For garments you intend to dry-clean, like linen or wool, you can try steam shrinking with an iron held slightly above the fabric surface, or an old trick that is a favourite of mine; to ‘take the shrink’…

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