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32 Articles

5 SMART WAYS TO TRAVEL HAPPIER

STEP 1 TIME IT RIGHT Visit a destination in shoulder season, when the weather’s good but crowds and prices are lower—like Scottsdale, Arizona in the fall. STEP 2 BOOK A VILLA Rent a family-friendly villa through a home-sharing site; it can be more spacious and less expensive than two hotel rooms. STEP 3 PACK SMART Bring mix-and-match layers to create multiple looks, plus a scarf to use as a handy cover-up at religious sites. STEP 4 HYDRATE. REST. REPEAT. Flying is very dehydrating, so drink plenty of water before you board and on the flight. Try smartwater! STEP 5 HIRE LOCAL GUIDES Well-vetted experts provide the inside scoop on important locales (and can teach you local lingo). Ask your hotel concierge for recommendations. For more smart ideas, visit drinksmartwater.com.…

5 SMART WAYS TO TRAVEL HAPPIER

“Night Falls Above Jesús María”

GERMAN PHOTOGRAPHER AND filmmaker Kirstin Schmitt finds artistic inspiration in people’s everyday lives. “I want to figure out who people are,” says Schmitt, who splits her time between Havana and Berlin. “By getting to know them, I understand their passions.” Through a friend, she began spending time among people in Havana’s LGBTQ and drag communities, Cubans who have only recently been able to live their lives more openly, though they still face discrimination and a culture of machismo. Their lives are documented by Schmitt and her husband, Cuban photographer Juan Aristides Otamendiz, in the project “Arroz Con Mango—The New Men.” Schmitt’s images capture the moments beyond the stage and at home, as in the shot above, which features the performer Haila preparing for a midnight gig at Cabaret Las Vegas…

“Night Falls Above Jesús María”

THIS ISSUE MARKS the 10th anniversary of AFAR. It is a humbling and gratifying occasion for us. When we started AFAR, the world was in the midst of the Great Recession. People weren’t traveling. Businesses weren’t opening. And that went double—OK, quintuple—for print magazines. But we were committed to the idea that travel, when undertaken with an open mind and heart, could enrich people’s lives. And that the more people traveled this way, the better off the world would be. If we could be the voice and inspiration for this mind-set, this way of travel—what a great thing to do with our lives. Thankfully, due to an incredible team of people here at AFAR, the support of many partners, and you, our readership of discerning, global-citizen travelers, we have found…

EXPLORE IT IN AUSTRALIA

Start with these 3 different trip options. People & Culture Head here to compare the modern and ancient Aussie lifestyles. • Sydney Do as the locals do and hit the beach to relax, then take a convict history tour of The Rocks. • Kimberley Region See the ancient rock art of Aboriginal people, who have been around for some 50,000 years. Icons & Wildlife Explore iconic sites in these amazing natural areas. • Great Barrier Reef Snorkel or dive to witness the colorful coral and fish; inland, hike the ancient Daintree Rainforest. • Uluru/Ayers Rock Marvel at this 1,100-foot sacred monolith at sunrise or as you dine under the stars. • Tasmania Add a trip here to explore dramatic national parks and luxurious eco-lodges. Food & Wine Combine cuisine with…

EXPLORE IT IN AUSTRALIA

The Joy of Travel

ON A RECENT FLIGHT to Philadelphia, I was feeling glum: It was my third business trip in as many weeks, and I’d been missing my family since the minute I left my house. I was also sick. But when I landed in Philadelphia, I made a conscious decision to try to enjoy myself. On a whim I went for dinner at Zahav, recently deemed the best restaurant in the United States by the James Beard Foundation. What followed was a spectacular meal of Israeli small plates: fried cauliflower with labneh and mint, fresh hummus served with wood-fired laffa bread, and a beef kebab that I’m still thinking about today. As my food arrived, I started talking to the woman next to me, who, it turned out, was also in Philadelphia…

The Joy of Travel

THE TRAVEL HAPPINESS SURVEY

HOW MANY VACATION DAYS DO YOU USE PER YEAR? HOW MANY TRIPS DO YOU TAKE PER YEAR? IN AN IDEAL WORLD, HOW MUCH WOULD YOU TRAVEL? WHEN I TRAVEL, I PREFER TO… WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE WAY TO CAPTURE YOUR TRIPS? WHICH TRIP WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO TAKE? HOW MUCH TIME DO YOU USUALLY SPEND ON SOCIAL MEDIA WHEN YOU’RE TRAVELING? ARE YOU HAPPIEST TRAVELING… WHEN TRAVELING, WHAT TENDS TO MAKE YOU THE HAPPIEST? THE TOP 10 HAPPIEST DESTINATIONS, ACCORDING TO OUR READERS The crowd favorites? Tropical holidays and European getaways. WHAT’S YOUR HAPPIEST TRAVEL MEMORY? Thousands of you shared powerful stories with us. Here are two of our favorites. The Magic of Mexico My husband and I spent the night on the beach at Cabo Pulmo National Park…

THE TRAVEL HAPPINESS SURVEY

Jacqueline Winspear Writer Friends in High Places p.64 Ready to party: “In Crete one day, my friend and I found a little family-run restaurant. We stopped to get a drink. Next thing we knew, they’d dragged us into the family birthday party. We couldn’t speak a word of Greek, but it made their day to have two Englishwomen there who were game for it.” Essence of travel: “It’s about connecting with a place and growing as a person, those moments that you’ll have forever. Cameras and journals are great, but memories live on in your heart.” Find her: on Facebook @jacquelinewinspear Emma Hardy Photographer The Greatest Outdoors p.108 Sweet serendipity: “The Norwegian concept of friluftsliv (outdoor living) built on itself while I was in Norway. I saw kids swimming in…

TRAVEL KENTUCKY

LIFE IS BETTER IN THE BLUEGRASS Sipping a handcrafted bourbon. Watching a graceful Thoroughbred race down the homestretch. Spending a day on the lake or venturing below-ground for exploration of “Mammoth” proportions. These are a few of the things that make us happy – and they’re all waiting for you in Kentucky. This is, after all, a state where the thunder of hooves is almost a religion. Lexington is known as the “Horse Capital of the World” due to its rolling hills and countless farms where stallions gallop and breeders raise the next champion. The iconic Kentucky Derby runs on the first Saturday in May before a colossal crowd at famed Churchill Downs in Louisville. Then there is bourbon. Kentucky is the prime producer of this internationally adored corn-based whiskey,…

TRAVEL KENTUCKY

SIMPLE PLEASURES

1. Santa Clara 1728 Lisbon, Portugal The six suites that occupy an 18thcentury residence in Lisbon’s old cultural quarter have linen curtains, gleaming white subway tiles, soothing gray walls, natural wood furnishings, and precious little else except peace and quiet. A communal dining table fosters intimate conversation among guests, and an interior garden offers a fine meditation space, perfect for reflecting on the well-loved landmarks—such as Santa Engrácia Church—that lie just minutes beyond the front door. From $451. silentliving.pt 2. Kudadoo Maldives Private Island by Hurawalhi Maldives Opened in the Lhaviyani Atoll last December, this all-inclusive eco resort, with airy rooms framed by warm-toned woods, has 15 Japanese-inspired overwater villas, plus a bi-level spa and a restaurant. If the endless Indian Ocean vistas and un-crowded serenity don’t offer quite enough…

SIMPLE PLEASURES

10 Reasons Why French Polynesia Makes Travelers Happy

Simply uttering the names of Tahiti and Bora Bora is enough to trigger visions of idyllic tropical serenity. And the best way to make those visions a reality is on board the m/s Paul Gauguin—the highest-rated and longest continually sailing luxury cruise ship in the South Pacific, built specifically to navigate these waters. Come celebrate the cruise line’s 10th anniversary and discover your own bliss in French Polynesia. 1. Scenery You’ll cruise through turquoise lagoons and pass craggy volcanic islands covered with lush tropical foliage that cascades down to perfectly white sandy beaches. 2. People Happy locals make for happy travelers—and you’ll find Tahitians to be genuinely warm, welcoming, and excited to make connections. 3. Wildlife Clear water provides a window to life undersea. Catch sight of beautiful creatures like…

10 Reasons Why French Polynesia Makes Travelers Happy

HOW TO TRAVEL HAPPIER

Create Better Travel Memories Meik Wiking is an author and the CEO of the Happiness Research Institute, a think tank based in Copenhagen. His newest book, The Art of Making Memories: How to Create and Remember Happy Moments (HarperCollins), is due out October 1. He shared his tips for cultivating joy while on the road and after you’ve returned home.—Lyndsey Matthews 1. Go to a new place every year “Travel is about being brought out of your routine,” Wiking says. “It’s experiencing new things, new culture, new food, new people. And that’s the quick route to [making] memories: novel experiences. There’s nothing wrong with going back to the same place over and over again. But if we want a trip to stand out and be memorable, we have to seek…

HOW TO TRAVEL HAPPIER

A ROAD MAP TO HAPPINESS

In her new book The Atlas of Happiness: The Global Secrets of How to Be Happy, U.K.-born, Denmark-based author Helen Russell takes readers on a round-the-world trip—not to the usual tourist attractions but through distinct concepts of happiness that have evolved in 30 countries. She illustrates each via locals’ personal experiences. Here, Russell walks us through five of the book’s lesser-known—and often misunderstood—happiness ideologies, with practical advice for channeling them on your next trip. 1. Azart What it is: “Russia is a tough, cold place, so Russians grab at happiness with both hands,” Russell says. Azart (or “ardor”) is the burning urge to lunge at everything life throws your way, no matter the consequences. How to find it: “[In Russia] there’s this idea that you’re seeking heat all the time,”…

A ROAD MAP TO HAPPINESS

bermuda is a water wonderland

Whether you’re playing golf, having dinner, or just walking around, the shimmering Atlantic that surrounds Bermuda is a constant companion. Here’s how to enjoy. BEACHES. Bermuda’s famous stretches of pink sand are perfect for activities like swimming, catching sunsets, and doing yoga. See four gorgeous beaches by following the dramatic South Shore walking trail from world-famous Horseshoe Bay Beach to Warwick Long Bay Beach. WATER SPORTS. Get the adrenaline flowing with kite-boarding, jet-skiing, parasailing, fly-boarding, stand-up paddle-boarding, and kayaking. Snorkelers and scuba divers can look for 300-plus sunken vessels, as well as sea turtles and spotted eagle rays. BOATING. Anglers can sample some of the best deepsea fishing in the Atlantic while casting for marlin, blue-fin tuna, and wahoo. You can also go sailing—a favorite local tradition—or go out for…

bermuda is a water wonderland

DISNEY FOR GROWN-UPS

Dial in on Design When Disneyland opened in Anaheim, California, in 1955, the style we now call midcentury modern was all the rage. Many of those retro touches remain. After entering the park and passing under a plaque that begins here you leave today, check out vintage posters for such classic rides as Jungle Cruise, Matterhorn Bobsleds, and Autopia. Take a dizzying spin in a cup on Mad Tea Party, a ride that sports the same clean lines and pastel hues that it did on opening day; drift by boat through It’s a Small World to revel in mid-mod sunbursts and geometric designs; or glimpse a nuclear family of superheroes as you shoot through neonlit tunnels on the Incredicoaster ride at Disney’s California Adventure, the theme park across the plaza…

DISNEY FOR GROWN-UPS

A TRIP TO PERU, THE RICHEST COUNTRY IN THE WORLD

Peru invites you to rediscover the concept of wealth. One where being rich isn't about having the most, but about experiencing the most unforgettable moments. Cusco, the Empire of the Senses The capital of the Inca empire is nowadays, at all levels, a first-class experience. Hotels located in monasteries or stately homes of Colonial times, restaurants that produce the best gastro in the world, boutique hotels in the Sacred Valley with all the modern comforts; or a train to Machu Picchu which recreates the comfort of the best European trains. Surely not even the Inca rulers could have imagined the luxury their dominions would have. Explore the riches of the Andean Baroque art Admire impressive gold leaf altarpieces, sculptures, murais and canvases in a cultural route of 4 colonial temples,…

A TRIP TO PERU, THE RICHEST COUNTRY IN THE WORLD

FINE-TUNED RADAR: TOKYO'S HOT SPOTS FOR CONTEMPORARY ART

The fluidity of Tokyo's identity is one of the city's most remarkable facets to behold. Countless neighborhoods are continually evolving in unexpected and compelling ways, and this is particularly apparent in their relationship with contemporary art. Serial entrepreneur and artist Masamichi Toyama, who is deeply connected to the artistic heart of the city, offered his recommendations to travelers who are interested in getting the most out of Tokyo's vast arts scene, or who simply want to enjoy memorable settings buoyed by talented artists bath on and under the radar. According to Toyama, what makes Tokyo's art scene so fascinating and enjoyable for visitors is how every neighborhood has its own unique mode of expression and story to tell. But when it cornes to viewing a wide variety of art in…

FINE-TUNED RADAR: TOKYO'S HOT SPOTS FOR CONTEMPORARY ART

MOST TRAVELERS TO the Swiss city of Schaffhausen go to explore the Old Town—a bastion of baroque, rococo, and late Gothic architecture on the Rhine River—or to see Rhine Falls, Europe’s largest waterfall, which is just a few miles south of town. Watch lovers, however, may recognize the city of 36,000—a 40-minute train ride north of Zurich—as the home of the 151-year-old International Watch Company, or IWC. One of Switzerland’s venerable horological brands, IWC was founded in 1868 by Florentine Ariosto Jones, an American watchmaker eager to manufacture components for pocket watches using Swiss technology and the river’s hydropower. The company still maintains its headquarters in the riverside building Jones built years after arriving in Schaffhausen. Located a short walk from the Old Town, the four-story HQ also houses the…

IT’S BACK: AFAR PHOTO AWARDS PRESENTED BY UNITED MILEAGEPLUS The AFAR Photo Awards are back by popular demand! AFAR, in partnership with United MileagePlus, invites you to submit your best photography from around the world in five distinct categories: People, Culture, Cities, Outdoors, and Style & Design. Enter now for a chance to win United Polaris business class tickets, cash prizes, and more! afar.com/photoawards NORTH AMERICA’S ONLY AUTHENTIC DESERT OASIS You don’t come to Death Valley because abundant life flourishes here. That’s why a Four Diamond resort in the middle of it is so special. Join us to experience two unique hotels in one amazing location. oasisatdeathvalley.com Our Travel Happiness Survey Results Are In! We recently asked you, our traveling community, to help us understand what it is about travel…

TRIED, TESTED AND PERFECTED… South America is a melting pot of unique culture, epic food and formidable wildlife. Nature rules the roost here and the locals know best, so you need to travel with the experts. We’ve walked the talk (literally) and spent endless hours exploring and finessing our trips. With over 20 years’ experience under our belt, you can tell the difference. So, pick up the phone and leave the rest to us – with extraordinary trips to Patagonia, Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador and the Galapagos, we’ve got this. ActiveAdventures.com/South-America • 800.661.9073 CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF ADVENTURE IN 2019 Join OARS for a small-group active adventure and explore the most spectacular natural landscapes on earth. OARS offers guided river trips, hiking and multi-sport experiences from 1/2-day escapes to 28-day expeditions…

FRIENDS IN HIGH PLACES

WE LANDED ON Heraklion, the largest city in Crete, fizzy with the excitement of being in a new place. Corinne, my flatmate, and I had no plans, not even a guidebook. The year was 1978, and we’d chosen our destination at random, drawing upon our perks as flight attendants. Just six hours earlier, we had arrived at London’s Gatwick Airport with nothing but one bag each and a week’s vacation. Within 15 minutes, we had chosen our destination, received our tickets, and headed for the gate. Now, as we walked out into the sunshine, we were about to do what we’d done from the moment we’d begun traveling together: Wing it. I’d met Corinne on our first day of training to be flight attendants. I was 21, fresh out of…

FRIENDS IN HIGH PLACES

PARADISE ISLANDS

I WAS BORN and raised in Nassau, the capital of the Bahamas. Art and fashion were always important to my family. My dad painted and drew as a hobby, and my mom ran a sewing factory. Every day after school, my mom or dad would pick me and my older sisters up and take us to the factory. I was eight years old when I made my first dress. I used a heat-press machine to put a tiger face decal on the front of it and gave it to my sister, but it didn’t fit, because I didn’t know anything about body measurements. I eventually learned how to sew through trial and error and by watching my mom and her employees. My grandmother used to sew as well, and every…

PARADISE ISLANDS

SPANISH LESSONS

IT HAS BEEN six months of anticipation, alternating between excitement and dread, but when I receive my Spin the Globe assignment, I’m ecstatic: MADRID. “Maybe you’ll see Ferdinand!” says my six-year-old, referring to the pacifist bull from Munro Leaf’s famous picture book, the one who likes to “sit just quietly and smell the flowers.” Within minutes I’m flooded with recommendations from my friends on Facebook: This museum, that market, best churros con chocolate at this café! Don’t miss the Goyas, the pulpo (octopus), the Iberian pork, and go find Tío Pepe…. I ride this tidal wave of enthusiasm, but part of me soon wonders if I would’ve been better off just winging it. Spontaneity is romantic, fun, adventurous—at least, that’s what I recall. But it has been 18 years since…

SPANISH LESSONS

Add More Context To Your Next Trip

Travel experiences are more fulfilling when you walk away with a deeper understanding of a destination. That’s why AFAR has partnered with Context Travel—to help you access richer travel experiences. Context’s private tours are run by true experts in their fields; they’re not just locals, but also architects, art historians, tea masters, chefs, and more. And in over 60 global cities—from Rome to Tokyo and beyond—these knowledgeable experts will immerse you in their worlds, whether it’s a two-hour stroll or several days of adventure. Check out these highlights from some of our favorite tours: Rome Caravaggio Tour Get the real story behind this controversial baroque painter—and understand the influence his work has had. Tour with an art historian as you examine Caravaggio’s legacy in the places for which the art…

Add More Context To Your Next Trip

AFAR PHOTO AWARDS

Presented by ENTER NOW SHOW US THE WORLD For the second annual AFAR Photo Awards, we want to showcase the diverse and creative ways you see the world. This year, we’re joining forces with United MileagePlus to seek out fresh perspectives. All photography is welcome, so show us your best travel photos. Winners will receive publication in AFAR magazine and on AFAR.com, and cash awards; 25% of all proceeds will go to our nonprofit Learning AFAR. NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Must be 18 years or older to enter. Entries must be submitted between 8/1/2019 and 9/18/2019. For Official Rules, visit afar.com/photoawards afar.com/photoawards…

AFAR PHOTO AWARDS

THE SMELL OF apple pie and roasting coffee beans fills the air inside Café Bach, a 51-year-old coffee shop in Tokyo’s rough-and-tumble Minami-Senju neighborhood. Café Bach is what many young Tokyoites might describe as “Shōwa.” Japan’s Shōwa era (1926–1989) was marked by a penchant for imported concepts and non-Japanese decor. At Café Bach, staff in mint-green shirts serve customers who sit, quietly sipping, in bulky leather-and-wood chairs, surrounded by dark wood wainscoting, as classical music plays in the background. I’m here this morning to meet James Freeman, the founder of Blue Bottle Coffee, the third-wave Bay Area coffee company recently purchased by Nestlé for an estimated $500 million. We’re going on a tour of some of his favorite Tokyo coffee shops, and Café Bach is not only at the top…

THE GRAND CAYMAN MARRIOTT

At the Grand Cayman Marriott, discovering and cherishing small pleasures have always been a cornerstone to their way of life. This can be as simple as an evening walk on Seven Mile Beach, letting the warm Caribbean sun dry your skin after a dip in the sea or a bike ride at sunset. Their approach has been about having less, enjoying more; the pleasure of simply being. The team are all about enjoying the island’s endless summer. The aim is to evoke the happy nostalgia of summer – a time when life is bright and carefree. They do their best to provide guests with the ultimate Beach House experience by creating a fun and relaxed atmosphere where family and friends can reunite, reconnect and share happy moments together.. The Grand…

THE GRAND CAYMAN MARRIOTT

10 YERAS OF EMBRACING THE WORLD WHEN AFAR FOUNDERS Greg Sullivan and Joe Diaz tell the story of AFAR’s birth, it always starts in India in 2007. The friends had been traveling there for weeks, exploring the country without set plans, meeting entrepreneurs, artists, and even gurus. One day toward the end of their trip, Sullivan and Diaz were kicking back on a beach in Goa, drinking Kingfisher beer, thinking about everyone they’d met, when the idea came to them. What if they started a travel media company for travelers who embraced local culture and the realities of travel? “We wanted to avoid the supermodel on the elephant on the deserted beach vibe,” Diaz says. “That’s a fantasy. We wanted to do something that spoke to seeing and celebrating the…

ASCENT TO HAPPINESS

THE BATHHOUSE in the town of Paro was, according to my guide, a modest storefront unworthy of much description. Fine by me. As a blind guy, I don’t always care what the world looks like. What mattered most was the water inside. My wife, Tracy, and I had landed in the Paro Valley for a week’s journey through Bhutan, the reclusive mountain kingdom tucked between China and India, near Tibet. Renowned for its Himalayan vistas, which would be wasted on me, Bhutan is also a destination for luxury travelers interested in the pursuit of “wellness.” The government famously measures the country’s success not by its economy but by its population’s happiness. When considering foreign investment, the kingdom considers how it might impact the nation’s Gross National Happiness. The Bhutanese must…

ASCENT TO HAPPINESS

Nestled in the Himalayas between China and India, Bhutan is a tiny kingdom known for its dramatic landscapes, sacred sites, and holistic approach to happiness and wellness. To protect its natural resources and ensure that travelers don’t overwhelm the country, tourism is tightly controlled. Inbound flights are limited, and travelers must pay special fees to obtain visas—a multistep process made easier with the help of a travel advisor or an outfitter. (You can find members of AFAR’s Travel Advisory Council at afar.com/tac.) Travel companies such as GeoEx, MT Sobek, and Kensington Tours offer package and custom itineraries and help with some of the hassle. Visas American visitors need a visa to enter Bhutan. In order to get a visa, you must book a tour with a licensed guide or program…

THE GREATEST outdoors

At the charmingly ramshackle farmhouse in northern Norway where Roddie and Lindis Sloan live with their three children and a dog named Stella Bente Svendsen, a burst of unexpectedly warm weather has given everything the slightly giddy feel of a holiday. It’s late May, and we can sit outside to drink our tea in the morning and dig into grilled meats in the evening. At certain hours of the day, the sun makes the mountains appear to glow, and the Arctic light lends everything a startling clarity. It is, in many ways, the archetypal Nordic summer scene. Which is exactly as I want it, since I’ve come here in hopes of figuring out whether all I’ve heard about one very Norwegian concept, friluftsliv, is true. Scandinavians have a special relationship…

THE GREATEST outdoors

NORDSKOT At Manshausen, a private-island resort off the shores of the far northern town of Nordskot, cabins with window walls provide uninterrupted views of the 55-acre islet and surrounding Grøtøya Strait. The white sand beaches look out at the mountains, and the resort organizes fishing, rock-climbing, and diving adventures. Back on the mainland, Nordskot Brygge Sea Sport Centre rents boats, kayaks, and paddleboards. Dozens of trails in various levels of difficulty provide show-stopping views of the Vestfjorden and Lofotveggen peaks. ÅLESUND Situated at the mouth of Storfjord, which leads to the iconic Geirangerfjord on Norway’s northwest coast, Ålesund offers stunning vistas, abundant outdoor activities, and locally sourced food. Geiranger Fjordservice offers sightseeing cruises in what UNESCO dubbed one of the world’s most scenic fjords. Two waterfront restaurants, Sjøbua and Apotekergata…

Koh Tao Swimming Lessons

As our boat floated in the Gulf of Thailand, a scratchy voice over the radio alerted our captain that divers had seen an endangered whale shark nearby. On deck, the energy was palpable. Even the instructors, tanned and perpetually sandy, were giddy. My hair whipped around my face as the boat sped toward the Green Rock dive site where the shark had been. Hands shaking, I fastened my vest to the air tank and defogged my mask. We were on the last dive of our last day—no way was I going to let foggy goggles ruin this. A week before, my sister and I had arrived to get scuba certified on the island of Koh Tao, about 250 miles south of Bangkok. From the get-go, our instructor warned us that…

Koh Tao Swimming Lessons

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