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39 Articles

A OUTBACK OUTTAKES There’s no shortage of freaky things in Australia’s northernmost Top End, from hand-size spiders and curious crocodiles to temperatures that can hit a muggy 100 degrees. Photographer Ériver Hijano faced it all while shooting “Jump In” (page 90). See the photos we couldn’t squeeze into the story at afar.com/outtakes. AFAR.COM @AFARMEDIA /AFARMEDIA /AFARMEDIA @AFARMEDIA AFARHIGHLIGHTS the WAY FARER Want to know how to travel to Cuba like a pro? Or how to spend your frequent flyer miles efficiently? Head to the Wayfarer—AFAR’s brand-new blog— where you’ll find daily travel tips, dispatches from our roving editors, and inspiration for planning your dream trips. afar.com/wayfarer Fly Right Airports are changing in some imaginative ways (see page 60 for a vision of the future). We asked you what could make…

ÉRIVER HIJANO Photographer Jump In p.90 On braving Australia’s Top End: “The humidity is oppressive; the sun feels like hot syrup on your back. Every time I stepped outside, my lens fogged up and I had to wait 10 minutes for it to acclimatize.” Out of the frying pan: “The roads in Kakadu National Park were flooded. I’m told that when cars get stuck, crocodiles like to venture out. So I let a pilot talk me into going up in a small plane to shoot from above instead.” Check out his travel pics on Instagram: @eeeriver. PIERA GELARDI Photographer/Writer Vision Quest p.86 She embraced the impromptu in India: “One day, we were hiking and heard what sounded like Rajasthani house music coming out of a truck. These guys were dancing and gestured…

Introducing AFAR Journeys

SINCE WE STARTED AFAR, we have always tried to find new ways to help people travel deeper. Our magazine inspires, our website offers thousands of ideas for places to go and things to do, and our Experiences event series singles out cities and brings them vibrantly to life for small groups of travelers. Now I’m excited to announce the launch of AFAR Journeys. AFAR Journeys are itineraries crafted for you by members of AFAR’s Travel Advisory Council (TAC) and other specially selected tour operators and travel agents. The trips are tailored to specific interests: biking, food and cooking, wellness. Take a look at afar.com/journeys. The day-by-day descriptions will give you a glimpse at what’s possible, whether you travel on your own or sign up for a trip offered by a…

Introducing AFAR Journeys

Listen Up, Travel Deeper

“WHENEVER I WOULD TRAVEL, I went on walking tours for the same reason that I eat my vegetables,” says Andrew Mason, the cofounder of local deals website Groupon. He’s only half-joking. I’m sitting with Mason in a café in San Francisco’s startup-packed SoMa district. “You’re in this place and you might not be there again, and you feel this moral responsibility to attempt to understand the destination, the history, and the culture. But more often than not, if you see something that makes you want to stop and explore, you can’t, because you’re on someone else’s schedule.” In 2007, Mason traveled to Rome with his now-wife and downloaded an audio walking tour of the Colosseum onto an iPod. They each put in an earbud and wandered around the ruins. The…

Listen Up, Travel Deeper

DRINK (AND DON’T DRIVE) IN L.A.

First Stop 6:30 P.M. Pershing Square For a 360-degree view of the city’s revitalized downtown, start at the rooftop patio of Perch. Everything, the cocktail list included, has a French vibe. Try the cognac-based Midnight in Paris and find a cozy spot near one of the fire pits. perchla.com 7:30 P.M. Wilshire/Vermont Fortify yourself with banchan (small dishes) at Koreatown’s Kang Ho-dong Baekjeong. Lines can be long but the rib eye, grilled on a tabletop barbecue, is worth the wait. The soundtrack’s not bad either: K-pop hits and soju-fueled chatter. 3465 W. Sixth St. 9 P.M. Sunset/Vermont At Bar Covell in Los Feliz, there’s no wine menu to speak of. Bartenders will match your highly specialized cravings (something, say, big and jammy with a little bit of funk) to one…

DRINK (AND DON’T DRIVE) IN L.A.

EDIBLE ARRANGEMENTS The kitchen of Washington, D.C.’s Fiola Mare, a recent James Beard “Best New Restaurant” nominee, has as many blooms as a florist: More than 15 edible flowers are always in rotation. “I don’t use them as just ornaments,” explains chef Fabio Trabocchi. “Blossoms from herbs or veggies, such as basil and chive, can deliver concentrated aromas of the plant.” BUDDING GENUS Recently, Alaskan horticulturalists made an advantageous discovery: The state has the perfect summer soil for peonies, grown elsewhere during a tiny window in spring. They distribute them now to the Lower 48. Buy the showy buds through August from California’s Farmgirl Flowers or your local organic flower shop. farmgirlflowers.com A KISS FROM A ROSE Mandarin Oriental’s spas (below) recently began using Inner Strength oil, which has a…

AL FRESCO BERLIN

1 UBER COCKTAILS In a black-tiled space, BRYK Bar rides the mixology wave with unusual ingredients, including horseradish and chestnut honey, and cocktail names that sound like indie movies: Crocodile Dundee Is Going Hunting and Kamasutra with a Hangover. Rykestrasse 18 2 GREEN SPACE On sunny days, Berliners head to the closest park—and anyone is welcome to join. Near Rykestrasse, you have two options:Wasserturm Park, home to a historic water tower and a coveted Ping-Pong table, or the elegant Kollwitzplatz, where farmers sell seasonal fruits and vegetables at the markets on Thursdays and Saturdays. 3 HOME SWEET HAUS With its Balinese-style courtyard filled with plants and benches, the Ackselhaus hotel may have the best patio on the block. Themed rooms are just as transporting. Check in to the Picasso, a…

AL FRESCO BERLIN

Japan’s Secret Shore

Morgan Collett, cofounder of Saturdays Surf NYC, has caught waves everywhere from Costa Rica to Indonesia. He makes one destination a routine, though: Kamakura, Japan. It’s not just the perfect water conditions that have appealed to him. Only an hour away from Tokyo, the beaches of this city offer an experience you can’t get anywhere else. “You feel so completely hidden away,” Collett explains. “The beach has dark black sand and is lined with all of these coves and rolling hills. Then, in the distance, you can see Mt. Fuji.” There’s more than just the outdoors to explore in Collett’s paradise: Travelers can visit shrines such as the 13th-century Kencho-ji and fill up on handmade soba noodles from Nakamura-an, an institution locals swear by.…

THE DOORS ARE OPEN

WHERE TO STAY NOW The Bahamas The beauty of the justopened Island House in Nassau is that it feels like a small community of creative local minds. The 48-seat cinema screens films made in the Caribbean. Bahamian musicians perform live sets. Even the pottery throughout the 30 rooms was made by ceramicists in town. There are plenty of ways to stay active, too: The hotel has a squash court and an anti-gravity yoga studio, and, of course, the beach is mere steps away. From $550. the-island-house.com…

THE DOORS ARE OPEN

1 THE SPORTY TRAVELER Omega’s self-winding Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M has an athletic pop of color and displays up to three time zones. ($8,100) THE ALTERNATIVE Orlebar Brown’s Mad Men-esque Amalfipolo shirt ($120) 2 THE RUGGED SAILOR Girard-Perregaux’s Sea Hawk Mission of Mermaids has an easy-to-grip bezel and rubber straps that are perfect for long days on the water. ($11,750) THE ALTERNATIVE Tod’s Marlin moccasins, a fancier version of the boat shoe ($525) 3 THE SCUBA DIVER In 2012, a watch similar to Rolex’s Deepsea strapped to the robotic arm of a submersible kept ticking even at the bottom of the Mariana Trench. ($12,350) THE ALTERNATIVE Author James Nestor’s compelling free-diving travelogue, Deep ($20) 4 THE SOPHISTICATE The IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Expedition Jacques-Yves Cousteau is eye candy for wrists: simple…

the 2015 TRAVEL VANGUARD

*and we don’t mean from your hotel. Upgrades Get an Upgrade THE DISPATCHER OF THE SKIES Jet Smarter founder SERGEY PETROSSOV says a scrum of startups are vying to get you—yes, you—onto a private jet. HOW DOES IT WORK? “Jet charters have been around for a while, but the technology to book an aircraft from the palm of your hand, in real time, is new. Jet Smarter has a network of 3,000 private aircraft around the world, 2,500 of which might be flying empty—say, when returning from a chartered trip. Members pay an $8,000 annual fee for access to as many of these empty-leg trips as they can book.” IS FLYING PRIVATE REALLY BECOMING MORE AFFORDABLE? “Yes, if you imagine the annual fee as a monthly payment (about $700). Normally,…

the 2015 TRAVEL VANGUARD

Not Ready for Private? Eight Upgrades to Catch

ECONOMY . . . PLUS Little things can salvage a long flight, say the new Smart Trays on Asia Atlantic that prop up your iPad. Or the SkyCouch— found on Air New Zealand, Air China, and Air Astana—which lets a family snuggle together, and eat from a shared tray. TIPTOE OUT OF COACH Premium economy, that now ubiquitous half-step up from coach, gets you more space and priority boarding. Singapore Airlines gets points for free noise-canceling headphones; Lufthansa, a nod for serving meals on real plates. THE NEW BIZ CLASS La Compagnie gives every passenger a lie-flat seat, a tablet, and Michelin-star food. For a monthly fee, the new Take Air offers unlimited flights (only Antwerp–Zurich for now) that skip check-in, security, and boarding lines. BEYOND FIRST CLASS Etihad’s three-room…

THE DREAM WEAVER

HOW ARE YOU SHAKING UP TRAVEL? “We plan trips starting with the why you are choosing to travel rather than the destination. Where you go might be a surprise; some people don’t want to find out until the day before takeoff.” AND HOW DO YOU DO THAT? “We start with an in-depth interview that reveals your passions and motivations. People tend to travel because they want something that isn’t present where they are. We discover what that is, then find a destination that can fulfill it. We tap our global network of locals, experts, and dignitaries to concoct behind-the-scenes experiences and meetings with interesting characters. [See the Iceland itinerary on page 54.] Then, we reveal the trip in an unusual way: maybe a hardcover book delivered by courier or a…

THE DREAM WEAVER

AN ANNOTATED GUIDE TO AN AWE-INSPIRING TRIP

DAY 1 Meet guide Ingolfur Brunn, a former policeman who climbs mountains and flies an ultralight THE IDEA “Holly needs a slower pace, yet she’s married to Zac, who leaps tall buildings in a single bound. It’s a balancing act, to be sure.” THE PAYOFF “Brunn took Zac ice-climbing on the Vatnajökull glacier, while Holly soaked in healing waters near lava fields.” DAY 2 Coffee with producer Leifur Dag finnsson, who shot the Icelandic scenes in Die Another Day THE IDEA “When we learned Holly and Zac were James Bond diehards, someone remembered Die Another Day was filmed here.” THE PAYOFF “We persuaded Dagfinnsson to meet Zac and Holly, who spent a morning getting the lowdown on how he pulled off the scenes.” DAY 3 Arrive at a majestic 1,800-seat…

AN ANNOTATED GUIDE TO AN AWE-INSPIRING TRIP

EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED

1 UNPACK A NEW LOOK St. Regis will load up your room’s closet with a Neiman Marcus wardrobe assembled just for you. Keep the Alexander McQueens you love, leave the rest. 2 DIGITAL FAIRY GODMOTHER Disney’s MagicBand e-bracelet alerts staff to your arrival, works as a credit card, and soon, could zap you a free ice cream voucher if you’ve waited too long in line. 3 CHILEAN SURPRISE PARTY Every room at the Awasi Patagonia resort comes with a guide who can arrange surprises like, say, a hike in Torres del Paine National Park capped by a spontaneous lunch. 4 IT’S THE LITTLE THINGS You may find a book by a favorite author or a box of pastries left on your nightstand by the attentive staff at the new Grand…

Selfies No More

Imagine you’re on vacation in Nicaragua. You leave all devices (phone, camera, GoPro) in your room and spend the days surfing, shopping the craft markets, and feasting on shrimp tacos. Yet every morning, you wake up to photos from the day before. You catching a wave. You on the prow of a catamaran. The whirl of colors that is a Nicaraguan craft market. That’s the idea behind El Camino, a new outfitter that sends a photographer on its group trips so you can revel, unplugged, yet still post a dynamite #humblebrag to Instagram. “Every morning, we sit around the breakfast table and relive the past day,” says cofounder Katalina Mayorga. “You get these beautiful images of yourself actually enjoying your vacation.” Picky about what goes in your feed? “Some people…

MEET YOUR NEW FAVORITE HOTEL

1 FOR THE LEAN-IN SET A next-gen brand for business travelers, Virgin Hotels Chicago pays special attention to women road warriors. Wi- fiis fast and free, rooms have savvy closets, there are weekly TED-like talks, and the Funny Library is stocked by Second City improv stars. Coming soon: Nashville and New York City. 2 FOR THE CULTURE MAVENS Opening this summer in New York, the Tommie Hudson Square models efficiency-chic (rooms include a pegboard for hanging clothes and a flip-down desk). But who wants to be in their room when the lobby-cum-lounge screens indie films and hosts art exhibits and emerging bands? 3 FOR THE SOCIALLY AWARE From Barry Sternlicht, founder of Starwood Hotels, comes the new 1 Hotels (now open in Miami) where, when you’re not sunbathing or celebrating…

MEET YOUR NEW FAVORITE HOTEL

THE PARTY MAKER

TELL US ABOUT YOUR LATEST PROJECT. “Proper Hotels are a nod to the grand hotels of the 19th century. We aren’t talking grand lobbies and bellboy hats but that those hotels were the cultural centers of their communities. Our San Francisco hotel will be fully wired, a hub for local personalities, and well designed— think vintage furniture you can actually sit on.” HOW DOES THE COMMUNITY FIT IN? “Each hotel will be a showcase for what’s happening in its neighborhood. We’re partnering with people, brands, and institutions in each of the cities, including San Francisco and Austin so far, who can use public areas to create and share art, music, and technology.” HOW WILL THAT MAKE HOTELS FEEL DIFFERENT? “In the early 2000s, the boutique hotel world was focused on…

THE PARTY MAKER

HOW ARE HOTELS EMBRACING MOBILE? “Not long ago, the idea of hospitality and technology coming together seemed foreign. But they complement each other: You can use our new app to book your trip, view previous stays, check in, and choose your room. For example, a family might choose a room that opens to the pool. You can even use it to make sure a burger and fries will be there to greet you.” WHAT SHOULD TRAVELERS WATCH FOR? “This year, Hilton is turning your phone into your room key. Soon, the app could allow you to pin your favorite room or curate local information. Another idea I’d love to see: Once guests have arrived in their room, we could check in with them via the app. We want our app…

Jeeves Meets R2-D2

This summer, Henn-na Hotel opens in Japan’s Nagasaki Prefecture with a staff of 10. Ten robots that is, including porters, housekeepers, and three of the humanish quadrilingual actroids at the front desk. Your face will be your room key; your phone, your concierge. Is this our future? We asked Siddhartha Srinivasa, head of Carnegie Mellon’s Personal Robotics Laboratory: “Robots are effective in places specifically constructed for them, like factories: A team of robots can build a car faster than a team of humans. But, they struggle with the clutter and uncertainty of human environments. Hotels are an interesting middle ground. I would’ve expected the first hotel robots to be boxes on wheels that transport trays or dirty linens, not service staff. This might appeal to travelers who look for efficiency,…

WE’RE CELEBRATING

join us in creating a world in which all students travel and discover themselves. Currently, for every 25 schools that apply for a Learning AFAR program, we are able to accept one; for every five students who apply for a scholarship, we can provide aid to only one. Here are some ways you can help: • Cover one student’s passport fees: $135 • Fund one student’s 9-month program: $3,500 • Send an entire Learning AFAR group on this transformational journey: $40,000 Get involved! Contact us today to discuss how: 970-484-3633 or foundation@afar.com afar.com/learningafar IN PARTNERSHIP WITH: WITH GENEROUS SUPPORT From:…

WE’RE CELEBRATING

NOW BOARDING: A NO-FUSS TRIP THROUGH THE AIRPORT

DEPART NEVER MISS A FLIGHT AGAIN One reason to get an Apple Watch: New apps from airlines (American, British Airways) will give you a buzz when it’s time to leave for the airport, then alert you to delays or gate changes. Once in the air, your watch will track flight time and update connection and baggage info. FOLLOW YOUR BAGS If you’re a frequent flyer on KLM, starting this August, you can get an Eviate eTag that will allow you to track your luggage via smartphone. It’ll even send an alert if the bag is opened. Airports such as London Gatwick will have DIY bag drops where you can just tag and go. AVOID THE AIRPORT WANDER Airports from Copenhagen to Miami have added tiny iBeacons that can give directions…

NOW BOARDING: A NO-FUSS TRIP THROUGH THE AIRPORT

Your Travel Toolbox

1 THE SUITCASE, REBOOTED Three bags to watch: The hard-case Trunkster is GPS enabled, gadget charging, and even self weighing; Bluesmart, designed by a Silicon Valley startup, has 3G connectivity and a remote locking system; and the chic new Holger suitcase (pictured) includes built-in chargers. 2 EVERYONE’S AN ATM The Tab app lets you pay participating businesses in your own currency and—even better—withdraw money from them (you choose an amount in the app, then show a bar code). The 4 percent fee is less than an overseas ATM charge. Use it in Guatemala and, soon, 20 more countries. 3 SWIPE RIGHT FOR A BUDDY Tripr is basically Tinder for travelers. The app uses Facebook to connect friends, friends of friends, and even strangers traveling to the same place. But, while…

Your Travel Toolbox

THE PIED PIPER OF POT

SO WEED TOURISM IS A THING NOW? “Yep. We’re a 100 percent legal cannabis tourism company. We run tours—our Kush Tour may include stops at a cultivation facility, a testing lab, and a bakery—and provide travel resources (where to buy, partake, and stay). We just launched a tourism map—an app is next.” WHAT’S NEXT? “As with alcohol, it’s still illegal to imbibe in public, so I think we’ll see cannabisfriendly lounges, similar to coffee shops in Amsterdam. We’re seeing development in other states. Cannabis is now legal in Alaska. There aren’t any shops open there yet, but we’re working with a few B&Bs to provide places to get a taste of the pot culture. I’d like to see the industry become comparable to the wine industry.” WHO’S SMOKING? “Our clients…

THE PIED PIPER OF POT

FRESHLY BAKED IN SEATTLE

A CREDIBLE EDIBLE “The packaging is meant to be fun but also to give people a sense of trust. It’s not a Ziploc with a sticker on it. We wanted it to look like it could go on a Whole Foods shelf.” WHAT’S INSIDE “We worked with a pastry chef to build a cookie (like sea salt chocolate chip) that’s soft, stable for 60 days, and still true to our commitment to local ingredients. It’s way different than cupcakes: It’s hard to make sure the THC is evenly mixed without making the cookie feel like a brick.” DON’T GO DOWN WITH THE SHIP “Ten milligrams of THC—a cookie’s standard serving—is like four strong cocktails. I only eat half in one sitting. A quarter is a great place to start. We…

FRESHLY BAKED IN SEATTLE

IT’S HIGH TIME FOR COLORADO

1 THE SOURCE Aspen’s gallery-like Silverpeak Apothecary (below) turns the notion of a headshop on its, well, head. No tie-dye here, just smart staffers who can steer you to a strain—grown on Silverpeak’s very own Colorado farm—to match your mood. (Jilly Bean uplifts, while Querkle soothes.) 2 THE EXPERIENCE Through My 420 Tours, you can tour Denver dispensaries or take a class to learn to cook with cannabis oils—yes, you’ll walk away with goodies. Or try Primal Wellness, a day spa that uses oils infused with cannabis, a natural anti-inflammatory l y that won’t get you high, for massages. 3 THE HANGOUT It’s still illegal to smoke in public, but companies like Edible Events host semi-regular shindigs. While hotels work out their weed policies, a new crop of B&Bs has…

IT’S HIGH TIME FOR COLORADO

The New Global Pot Spots

ALASKA What’s new: Since February, the state is OK with you growing, possessing, and sharing pot. By 2016, it will be as easy to buy as gum. BARCELONA What’s new: The lively cannabis club scene got an official stamp of approval in January—and more clubs continue to pop up. Check out: The Dragon Cannabis Club, known for its top-notch product. Word to the wise: In order to hang out at any of the city’s 100-plus cannabis clubs, you’ll need to register a few weeks ahead of your trip. JAMAICA What’s new: You may be surprised to hear that the spiritual home of ganja legalized possession only this year. Check out: Even before the new law, tours of pot plantations were a nudgenudge, wink-wink part of a trip. Some cruise lines…

Round and Round We Go

DID YOU KNOW THE COFFEE shops are technically illegal?” I’m in Amsterdam sitting in a café—not a coffee shop, a very important difference, one quickly learns— having lunch with a friend of a friend. She points at a coffee shop across the street. “Technically they can’t sell marijuana, but they’re allowed to anyway.” She shrugs. “It’s tolerated.” The Dutch, I will be told repeatedly throughout my five days in Amsterdam, take great pride in being tolerant. Five minutes later, my very liberal and enlightened coffee date is verbally bashing Muslims. When I first found out I was going to Amsterdam, I thought I had been there before, even though I hadn’t, because I’m not very good at geography, and I thought Amsterdam was in Belgium. It’s not. It’s in the…

Round and Round We Go

Confessions of a Cheesesteak

I’M SITTING WITH Frankie Olivieri Jr. outside his restaurant, Pat’s King of Steaks, a South Philadelphia institution that pumps out the city’s famously messy sandwich 24 hours a day. It’s 10 a.m. and the cherry-red picnic tables are mostly empty; I’m here during the lull between workers coming off the night shift and the crush of afternoon tour buses that precedes late-night revelers. The cheesesteak I smell frying is nearly the same as the original born here 85 years ago: An Italian hoagie roll packed with thinly sliced rib eye and Spanish onions, both sautéed on a flattop grill, sometimes with peppers and mushrooms. Cheese, whether you opt for provolone or the iconic Cheez Whiz—just “Whiz” in local parlance—holds the whole thing together. But ask anyone what really makes a…

Confessions of a Cheesesteak

There’s a Philly cheesesteak for every taste

1 FOR THE MEATLESS Get a taste of Philadelphia’s booming vegan dining scene at HipCityVeg. This fast food spot is a leader in ecodining: It delivers by bicycle, and it composts food scraps and all packaging. Fans swear by the Philly Steak (which subs in a grain-soy blend for the steak and vegan mayo for the cheese) paired with the Groothie, a kale-packed smoothie. 127 S. 18th St. hipcityveg.com 2 FOR THE PURISTS Pat’s King of Steaks is the original and worth a visit for its setting in the Italian market, the famously gruff staff, and the celebrity photos that line the walls. Be prepared to wait in line and be ready with your order. 1237 E. Passyunk Ave. patskingofsteaks.com 3 HEY, HIGH ROLLERS Contemporary decor sets the stage at…

1 THE SWAG COUNTRY INN Waynesville, North Carolina Set along the boundary of Great Smoky Mountains National Park, the Swag’s 14 guest rooms feature patchwork quilts, postcard views of North Carolina’s mountains, and in most cases, wood-burning stoves. Personalized hiking sticks come in handy for outings on the surrounding trails and make great souvenirs. When the dinner bell rings, guests gather to share tales of wilderness adventures over local trout, grilled lamb chops, and salads made from the on-site garden’s vegetables. The inn doesn’t serve alcohol, but you are welcome to bring your own. From $495. theswag.com 2 BELTON CHALET West Glacier, Montana Situated a quarter mile from the west entrance to Glacier National Park, this recently renovated landmark was built by the Great Northern Railway Company in 1910—the year…

Three More Ways to Explore the Parks

BY BICYCLE Serious cyclists can ride the sinuous Going-to-the-Sun Road on a seven-day trip through Glacier and Yellowstone National Parks with the Cycling House. $1,595, thecyclinghouse.com BY KAYAK Paddle the waterways of Everglades National Park on a three-hour kayak adventure with Backcountry Cowboy Outfitters. Overnight camping trips are also available. From $135, backcountrycowboy.com ON FOOT Take in the Southwest’s famous rock formations on a six-day hiking expedition through Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon, and Zion National Parks with Mountain Travel Sobek. From $2,995, mtsobek.com…

IS THIS WHAT THE WORLD'S NEXT GREAT FOOD DESTINATION LOOKS LIKE? THE ROAD TO NEBESA, A RESORT IN WESTERN SLOVENIA, was cratered for miles with the kind of potholes that could take down an armored vehicle. By the time I had navigated the mall, my knuckles felt permanently clenched to the wheel. Through the fog and drizzle, I could make out a few cottages that had the silvery, weathered look of abandoned lobster shacks, and glimpsed a pair of hulking beasts that could have been bears. Upon closer inspection, after I parked my rental car, the beasts turned out to be two docile New found lands and the cottages convivially inhabited. Stepping inside the largest one, I found myself in a cozy room illuminated by firelight. Ana Ros was behind…

WHERE TO BED DOWN + EAT WELL IN SLOVENIA

JB Restavracija Chef Janez Bratovz applies modern techniques to farm fresh ingredients and riffs on Slovenian culinary traditions. The formal setting is balanced by the warm hospitality of a family operation (Bratovz’s wife is the manager, his daughter the sommelier, his son a chef). Cesta Miklosiceva 17, Ljubljana, 386/(0) 1-430-7070, jb-slo.com Nebesa Chef Ana Ros’s parents run this simple but elegant resort that comprises four woodsided cabins with fireplaces and alpine views. The hills are alive with opportunities for exploring the Soca Valley. Livek 39, Kobarid, 386/(0 )5-384-4620 , nebesa.si Hisa Franko While Ana Ros masterminds multicourse tasting menus that might include local beef tartare, pasta filled with sheep’s milk cottage cheese, and black cod fried in vegetable ashes, her husband, Valter Kramar, maintains a world-class wine cellar, favoring biodynamic…

WHERE TO BED DOWN + EAT WELL IN SLOVENIA

PERHAPS IT’S THE JET LAG that makes the birds sound so monstrous. All afternoon, as I try to nap, they have been infiltrating my sleep. Birds that hoot, birds that bark, birds that cough, birds that squeak, screech, groan, and sigh. Birds that howl like wolves or scream like babies. A bird that sounds like a dial-up modem connection. A bird that seems to be calling for someone named Marie. When I next wake, it’s the middle of the night, and the birds have fallen silent. I hear a noisy rustling—rat or possum, I imagine—and brace myself, then turn on the light. The biggest insect I’ve ever seen flashes blackly over the book at my bedside. I love my grandparents, but sometimes their home really freaks me out. In the…

STAY + EAT: DARWIN

STAY Mantra on the Esplanade The hotel’s panoramic views of Darwin Harbor are hard to beat, and the Central Business District location is a convenient base for exploring the city. Stay in one of the guest rooms or live like a local in an apartment style accommodation. Guest rooms from $97; apartments from $145. 88 The Esplanade, 61/(0) 7-5665-4333, mantra.com.au Vibe Hotel Darwin Waterfront The 121 modern-feeling guest rooms may be on the small side, but Vibe’s location is wide open— rig ht along the waterfront, a short stroll from the restaurants, shops, and pubs lining the promenade. From $80. 7 Kitchener Dr., 61/(0)8 -8982 -9998, tfehotels.com EAT Hanuman Chef Jimmy Shu’s Thai-, Indian-, and Nyonyainspired menu showcases indigenous ingredients in such dishes as barramundi fish tikka, Thai chili prawns,…

GET INTO THE WILD: KAKADU NATIONAL PARK

OUTFITTERS Many travel companies offer tailor-made trips and itinerary extensions into Kakadu National Park from Darwin. Abercrombie & Kent (abercrombiekent.com), Asia Transpacific Journeys (asiatranspacific.com), Cox & Kings (coxandkings usa.com), and GeoEx (geoex.com) book travelers into the finest lodges and pair them with the region’s best guides. LODGES Bamurru Plains A short distance from Kakadu, a three-hour drive east of Darwin, 10 airy bungalows on stilts have en suite showers and views of the wildlife-filled Mary River floodplains. From $420 per adult. bamurruplains.com Cicada Lodge In Nitmiluk National Park, just south of Kakadu, Cicada Lodge’s 18 balconied suites are filled with Aboriginal art and face the otherworldly sandstone formations of the Katherine Gorge. From $530. cicadalodge.com.au Mercure Kakadu Crocodile Hotel This crocodile-shaped retreat has all the creature comforts you’ll need after…

GET INTO THE WILD: KAKADU NATIONAL PARK

UNDERSTANDING THE SKY

WHO IS THIS MAN? He wants to fly. Where is this man? He is in California. Where is he going? He is driving to Petaluma to fly. How will he fly? On a two-seat open-air flying machine called an ultralight. Has he told his wife he will do this? He will tell her after he has done this. Where is he now? He has arrived in Petaluma and is looking for the airport. Here it is. Off East Washington Street. On Sky Ranch Drive. The airport seems to want to cater to executives and such. Yes, but it looks more like a series of self-storage units built atop an old farm. Now what is this man doing? He is meeting Michael, a French Canadian. Shouldn’t that be French-Canadien? Maybe it…

UNDERSTANDING THE SKY

All Eyes on Arles

WHERE TO GO RIGHT NOW Founded in 1970, Les Rencontres d’Arles is to photography what Fashion Week is to couture. Every summer, shutterbugs and gallery owners from around the world converge on this Provençal town—where van Gogh painted some of his most famous works—to check out emerging talent and trends. Even folks whose interest in photography is limited to Instagram will get a charge from shows like the one pictured, held in the usually shuttered Church of St. Blaise. July 6–September 20, rencontres-arles.com…

All Eyes on Arles

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