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67 Articles

Welcome to Crochet for Beginners

Crochet as a hobby has boomed in recent years, with the art being passed down to younger generations. Fashionable and thrifty, making your own garments, gifts and decorations has become a really popular pastime. Crochet for Beginners will show you all the essential stitches and techniques you’ll need to get started, from your very first foundation chain to adding embellishments like fringe and edging. Once you’ve mastered those techniques, it’s time to put them into practice! Turn to the starter projects section for easy-to-follow patterns from experienced crocheters. Start with the flower corsage and adorable teddy bear, then progress onto more advanced projects like the stylish Aran cushion cover. Follow our simple steps and you’ll soon be creating beautiful items worthy of the high street. Happy crocheting!…

Welcome to Crochet for Beginners

To begin crocheting, all you need are two essential pieces of equipment: a crochet hook and a ball of yarn. The yarn that you decide to use will play a part in determining which hook you will work with, so let’s start by looking at the many types of yarn available to you. Yarns are made with a wide variety of fibres; most are natural, some are synthetic, and others blend different fibres together. All yarns have different textures and properties, and will affect the look and feel of your finished project. For example, wool is stretchy and tough, alpaca is soft and luxurious, while natural and synthetic blends are durable with other enhanced properties. When choosing a yarn you also need to consider its thickness, usually called its weight.…

Different crochet hooks are designed with various factors in mind, from the type of project you will be working on to the level of grip and comfort required. Most importantly, crochet hooks come in different sizes, and the size of hook you use – while most of the time being determined by the weight of the yarn you are working with – will determine the look of your finished project. In general, the thicker the yarn you use the larger the crochet hook you will need, but using a large hook with a fine yarn can also produce an interesting, delicate fabric. Crochet hooks are produced in different materials – mainly metal, wood and plastic – and some come with comfy-grip or ergonomic handles. Finding the right hook for you…

Crochet kit bag

Top tip! If you need to use a stitch marker but don’t have one to hand, a scrap of yarn tied in a loop around the stitch or even a bobby pin make pretty good substitutes.…

Crochet kit bag

Holding your hook and yarn

A crochet hook can feel a bit unnatural in your hand at first, but you’ll soon get used to the way it feels and how it moves. If you’ve got a hook with a thumb rest (one without a comfort grip on the bottom), start by grabbing that part of the hook between your thumb and index finger of your right hand, with the throat of the hook facing towards you. (If you’re left-handed, or you find that holding the hook in your right hand just won’t work for you, turn to the next page for our guide on crochet for left-handers). While your right hand is busy handling the crochet hook, your left hand has its own job to do – controlling the tension in your yarn. The tighter…

Holding your hook and yarn

Crochet for left-handers

While most crochet patterns are written for people crocheting with their right hand, it’s easy to make them applicable for left-handed crocheters. As left-handed crochet produces a mirror image of right-handed crochet, there are just four instructions that need to be reversed – and these can be seen in the table on the next page. By following these simple rules, you will be able to crochet almost everything that a right-handed crocheter can with ease. The only differences will be that diagonal details slant the other way and spirals will rotate in the opposite direction, but this will rarely cause significant problems. To see what your finished piece will look like, or to follow a technique tutorial, simply hold the image up to a mirror. This will show the left-handed…

Crochet for left-handers

Tension (gauge)

When creating some projects, knowing the exact size and feel of the fabric you’re about to crochet before you get started will be a big help. This is where working out your tension (gauge) comes in handy. Tension is the measure of how many stitches and rows you need to create per a certain length and width of crocheted fabric. For example, crocheting tight, small stitches will inevitably result in a denser fabric than big, loose stitches will. How tightly or loosely your crocheted stitches will be (and, ultimately, the look and feel of your piece) depends on several factors. Firstly, the size of your hook plays an important role, with a larger hook creating bigger stitches and vice versa. Secondly, the weight of your yarn will also have an…

Tension (gauge)

How to read a pattern

When you’ve decided on what you want your first crochet project to be – whether it’s a simple scarf or an amigurumi character – you will most likely follow a pattern to create it. Patterns are the instructions that tell you what stitches to use and how to combine them to make the item you’re working on. You can find crochet patterns in a variety of places, including in this book (see page 128 for starter projects). As crochet patterns are written in shorthand, to the untrained eye they can just look like meaningless lists of jumbled letters, but they’re actually pretty accessible once you’ve mastered the terms. They are written this way so as to not take up too much space on the page, and also to make them…

How to read a pattern

UK/US terminology

Follow the pattern Confusingly, patterns that are printed in Britain and other places that follow UK naming conventions use different terms to describe stitches than patterns printed in North America. To make things even more difficult, the same name is used to mean different stitches under either convention. Most patterns will state whether they are using US or UK terminology at the start, but if not, checking the pattern’s country of origin may be a good place to start in finding out which convention is being used. A handy trick to remember is that there is no stitch called a single crochet (sc) in UK terminology, so if you see this on the pattern, then you know it is using US naming conventions. Everything in this book uses UK terminology.…

UK/US terminology

Making a slipknot

Begin to crochet The slipknot is your first step 01 Make a loop Wrap the yarn once around one or two of your fingers on your left hand to form a loop, making sure to leave a tail of at least 10cm (or longer if your pattern calls for it). 02 Insert your hook Move your newly formed loop off your fingertips and grip it between your thumb and index finger on your left hand. Insert your hook from right to left into the loop. 03 Identify the working yarn The working yarn is the yarn that is attached to your ball. Catch it with your hook ready for the next step. 04 Draw up a loop Pull the working yarn through the loop using the hook. There will now…

Making a slipknot

Making a yarn over

The right and the wrong way Don’t let the name confuse you 01 Move your hook, not the yarn While it sounds like a yarn over (yo) should be made by moving the yarn over the hook, it’s easier to keep the yarn still and guide the crochet hook around it. With your hook in your right hand and the working yarn in your left, pass your hook underneath the yarn from right to left. The wrong way Moving the hook under the yarn from left to right will make creating stitches incredibly difficult, and if you do manage it, then the stitches that you have created will become twisted and tangled. 02 Make another There will be times when you need to yarn over twice, and to do this,…

Making a yarn over

Drawing up a loop

Making stitches Master the basic step 01 Insert your hook To draw up a loop, you need to insert your hook into what you’ve already created. This could be into the foundation chain, into a previous stitch or into a space in the work. Your pattern will tell you where. 02 Yarn over Move your hook to create a yarn over (yo). You will always need to create a yarn over after inserting your hook to draw up a loop. 03 Pull through Move your hook back through the work, making sure to catch the yarn over in the throat of your hook. There will now be two loops on your hook – the loop that you have just drawn up and the one you started with. How far should…

Drawing up a loop

Making a foundation chain

A solid foundation Make your base 01 Start with a slipknot The first step is to create a slipknot on your hook. 02 Yarn over Move your hook underneath your yarn to create a yarn over. 03 Pull through Move the hook back through the loop already on your hook, making sure to catch the working yarn. You have now made your first chain. 04 Keep going Repeat Steps 2 and 3 to make more chains. Hold the stitches you’ve already made in your left hand close to the hook for stability. Your pattern will tell you how many you need to chain. Dos and don’ts 01 Even stitches Try to make all the chains a similar size to ensure you are making a strong foundation for your piece. If…

Making a foundation chain

Working the chain

Get to know the foundation chain 01 Front of the chain Looking at the front side of your chain, you will see a row of sideways Vs, each with a top loop and a bottom loop. 02 Back of the chain When you look at the back side of the chain, you will see a line of bumps in between the loops. These are called the back bumps. Under the top loop 01 Find the top loop For this method, hook under the top loop only. 02 Insert your hook Move your hook to insert it under the top loop of a V. Under the top loop and back bump 01 Under two Hooking under both the top loop and the back bump is sometimes referred to as the top…

Working the chain

Working into subsequent rows

To work into the row you’ve just crocheted, you will first need to crochet a turning chain (t-ch), which you can learn how to create on page 42. When you’ve made this the length suggested on the pattern for the stitch that you are working, you will then crochet into the row you just created in a very similar way to working into the foundation chain. When looking at the top of the row you will see the Vs of the stitches. To work into the next row, you can either crochet under the back loop, under the front loop or under both loops of the stitch on the row below. If your pattern doesn’t specify which loops to work into, the standard way is to insert your hook under…

Working into subsequent rows

Double crochet (dc) is a very important stitch in crochet as it is one of the simplest, and therefore the one that most crocheters tend to learn to use first. Mastering this stitch will also help you when it comes to creating taller stitches, as most are created by just adding steps to the method for making a double crochet. Using only double crochets creates a very compact, dense fabric, which makes it great for thick, warm winter garments. It is also a very common stitch in amigurumi and toy making, as the compact fabric created is very good for holding stuffing in. You will be able to create a variety of projects just by mastering this stitch. If you plan to double crochet into a foundation chain, as we…

The treble crochet (tr) is a very common stitch that is simple to create, especially once you’ve mastered the technique of making a double crochet (dc). It is created simply by adding a couple of steps to the method for creating a double crochet. Due to its increased height, this stitch creates a much less compact and therefore more versatile fabric than the double crochet. It is a very common and recognisable stitch, as seen in granny squares. When working a treble crochet into a foundation chain, you must make two more chains than your desired number of stitches. This is because a treble crochet is usually worked into the fourth chain from the hook when being worked into a foundation chain, and the three unworked chains will form your…

Half treble crochet

This stitch is strange when compared to the double crochet (dc) and treble crochet (tr) in the way that it’s made. Instead of drawing a loop through two loops, the yarn is instead pulled through three to create a half treble crochet (htr). This produces a stitch that’s about half as tall as the treble crochet, but taller than the double crochet. This can be quite tricky to get the hang of the first time, so a little practice may be necessary. When used on its own, the half treble crochet produces a fairly compact fabric, which is similar in texture to that created when using double crochet by itself. Mastering the techniques used to create the double and treble crochet will help greatly when creating the half treble crochet.…

Half treble crochet

Double treble crochet

While the other stitches you have learned create quite close, compact stitches, the double treble crochet (dtr) creates very tall stitches that make a loose, stretchy fabric. For this reason, the double treble crochet is most often found in lace work. The double treble crochet is created by making two yarn overs (yo) before inserting the hook into the stitch or chain below, and this can make it quite fiddly to work with. It’s important to check that you have the correct number of loops on your hook after you’ve drawn up the first loop, as it’s very easy for the second yarn over to slip off the hook before you insert it into your fabric, without you even noticing. However, this is a valuable stitch because when compared to…

Double treble crochet

The turning chain (t-ch) has a very important part to play in crochet. Its purpose is to prepare for the next row to be created, and in most cases it becomes the first stitch of that row. The only exception to this is when using double crochet, as the turning chain in this case is too short to be considered the first stitch. When using anything but double crochet, the turning chain always counts as the first stitch (unless specified otherwise in a pattern), and the next stitch should be created in the second stitch from the hook. However, with double crochet, the turning chain is too short and leaving it to function as the first stitch would create messy edges, so the first double crochet is made in the…

Function over style Make the slip stitch (sl st) 01 Foundation chain Make a foundation chain to the required length. For a precise number of stitches, chain that many plus one. Identify the second chain from your hook. 02 Into chain Insert your hook into the second chain from the hook. Yarn over (yo). 03 Draw up a loop Pull your hook back through the chain. There should be two loops on your hook. 04 Pull through Avoiding the urge to yarn over, continue to pull the yarn through the second loop on the hook. You have completed the stitch and should have one loop on your hook. Repeat Steps 02 to 04 to finish the row. 05 Turn clockwise There will be very few instances in which you need…

Identifying and counting stitches

With the guides in this book you will already have discovered how to create a foundation chain, as well as different kinds of stitches like double crochet (dc), treble crochet (tr) and half treble crochet (htr). While it is important to know how to create these stitches, it is also necessary to know what those stitches look like in your work so that you know how to count and build upon them. It can be daunting at first to look at what you’ve crocheted and to try to count the stitches you have just made, however if you follow these simple steps you’ll see just what your fabric is made of. Identifying stitches Each stitch is made up of a post (which differs in height depending on the stitch worked)…

Identifying and counting stitches

Fixing mistakes

One of the joys of crochet patterns is that they are designed to help you identify a mistake at the earliest possible opportunity. If the number of stitches you’ve crocheted doesn’t match the number at the end of the row on the pattern, you know that you’ve made a mistake. It’s also quite easy to crochet one stitch when you actually meant to make another, especially if you are changing between two or more in the same row. Luckily, mistakes in crochet are easy to fix, and if you catch them early enough, they won’t set you back too much at all. Here’s a look at how to fix mistakes and get yourself back on track. Don’t panic Let’s fix that mistake 01 Remove hook When you notice that things…

Fixing mistakes

To prevent all your hard work from going to waste and unravelling before your eyes, one of the most important steps in a project is fastening off. This incredibly simple step will lock your work in place and keep all the stitches secure. Unless otherwise stated in your pattern, always fasten off your work when you come to the end of the instructions and the piece is complete. “This incredibly simple step will lock your work in place and keep the stitches secure” Finishing touches Fasten off to complete 01 Cut the yarn When you’ve finished your project, cut the working yarn about 15cm (6in) from the last stitch (or longer if your pattern states). Yarn over (yo) with the tail. 02 Pull through Pull the yarn through the loop…

You may find that the edges of a flat piece of crochet worked in rows can tend to become very wavy or unattractively distorted. This happens to all crocheters at some point, and it is most likely caused by fluctuating tension. But not to worry, there’s a simple solution that will give you crisp, neat edges every single time – adding a border of double crochets. This adds a degree of uniformity to all four edges, as without a border the side edges look very different to the top and bottom edges. If you simply want to neaten up your piece and create a seamless looking edge, add your border in the same colour as the rest of the work. However, a border in a contrasting colour will stand out…

Weaving in ends

At the bare minimum, there’ll always be two yarn tails that you need to deal with when you finish a project – the one at the beginning where you made your foundation chain (or started your project) and one at the end from where you fastened off. However, if you changed colour or joined new yarn, then you could be faced with many dangling ends that need to be secured and hidden away. There is more than one right way to weave in an end, and with a bit of trial and error you’ll find the one that works best for you. There are a few things to bear in mind with all methods. If your piece has a right side and a wrong side, for example a hat, then…

Weaving in ends

Changing colours

Colour can be used in many different ways to add a decorative element to a piece, from simple stripes to more complicated motifs and lettering. And while it might sound complicated to change colours halfway through a project, it’s actually as simple as just picking up a new ball of yarn and continuing to work with it. However, it’s important to remember to never start the new colour with a new stitch. Always complete the last step of the last stitch in the first colour with the new colour, as explained here. This gives a nice fluid join and makes it look like the colours flow into each other, instead of creating a harsh break. One of the trickier elements of working with more than one colour is working with…

Changing colours

Reading charted stitch diagrams

Made up of symbols to represent stitches, charted stitch diagrams lay out a pattern in a visual way, and will look similar to the actual piece of crocheted fabric. The symbols are uniform and internationally recognised, so you will be able to follow them with ease. Diagrams (sometimes also called charts) can often be found accompanying written-out patterns but may also sometimes be used instead of them, especially for particularly detailed patterns such as lace work and motifs. To begin with it may be best to read a chart alongside a written pattern. Even if using a diagram becomes your preferred method of following a pattern, don’t completely disregard written instructions, as these will include important information about special stitches and any repeats you may need to make. Standard stitch…

Reading charted stitch diagrams

Increasing is a very useful technique in crochet and one that’s incredibly easy to execute. Increasing is essential when working in the round to create something flat, as the extra stitches add width. Without increasing, you would just build upwards, not outwards. Increasing is also very useful when shaping items – such as amigurumi – as it can be combined with decreases to make the shapes you need. To increase the number of stitches in your round or row, simply crochet two or more stitches into one stitch of the row below. For example, if you have just crocheted a round of eight stitches, then crochet two of each stitch into each stitch below – your next round will have 16 stitches. In patterns, increasing is written as the number…

While the easiest way to reduce the number of stitches in a row is to simply skip stitches, this creates a hole, which is not always the desired effect. To avoid this hole, decrease stitches work multiple stitches together, thereby eliminating stitches while also filling in the gap. Decrease stitches are named after the number and type of stitches being crocheted together. For example, ‘dc2tog’ means that two double crochet stitches will be combined into one. When the number in the middle increases, this means even more stitches will be crocheted into one. While decreases have many different names and forms, the basic formula is the same: make all the stitches up to the final step so that they are all on the hook, then complete all the stitches together.…

Starting in the round

When you are working in the round you have two options for how to start your project. Usually a pattern will tell you which it would prefer for you to begin with – a chain or a magic ring, both of which will be covered on the following pages. The most simple method to begin with is a chain, which will see you connect a short chain together into a circle and work your first round into the middle of the chain. The second method, starting with a magic ring is a little more complicated, but it produces a tighter first round, and a more secure final product. It sees you work your stitches onto a loop of yarn, which you later pull tight before proceeding to work your stitches…

Starting in the round

Working in the round

There are many uses for working in the round, from the most simple projects to creating brilliant crochet creations like creatures and toys. There are also various techniques you can adopt when working with this technique, from working in a continuous spiral to working in separated rounds. Working in a spiral works best when you are working with double crochet (dc) stitches because larger stitches are harder to disguise at the end of the rounds. Having said that, if you have to do it, it isn’t impossible (see example on the opposite page). At the end of your working you will hide the last jog of stitches with an invisible finish (see page 74s for more information on these). Working in joined rounds works well when you are using longer…

Working in the round

Standard increases

When you’re working in the round you will need to make sure that you add a certain number of stitches to each round in order to keep your work flat (if this is the desired effect). Adding too many stitches will result in your work starting to ruffle, but not adding enough will result in a ball starting to form, which is actually perfect for amigurumi, so make sure you check the pattern if you think you have taken a wrong turn. The number of stitches that you add per row depends on what type of stitch you have used. Refer to the table (right) to decipher how many stitches you will need to add each round. Staggered increases Keep your rounds even by staggering your increases If you aren’t…

Standard increases

Invisible finish

When you work in the round there is nothing quite as annoying as when you can see the final stitch that joins the end of the last round to itself. Luckily, there is a very easy way to join the last stitch of your project to another stitch and create what is known as an invisible finish. To do this you will need a yarn needle (see page 15). The invisible finish essentially sees you create your own stitch with your needle, creating a V and making it the same size and shape as the other stitches in your round. It is incredibly simple to do, and it can tie your project together by giving it a very neat finish. Doing a slip stitch (sl st) can make it look…

Invisible finish

Blocking is a process you will go through after making many of your flat projects. It sets the stitches in place, can allow for lace pieces to become more defined and strengthens any straight edges in your work. This, of course, means that not every piece you make will have to be blocked, but it can help to even out any variants in your tension. There are several methods for blocking, including spray, steam and wet. Each technique achieves the same goal, while, like most things, being slightly more suitable for one project over another. To get started, you will need a blocking mat (or other flat, padded surface such as an ironing board or your bed) and some T-pins. For more fiddly projects you may want to invest in…

When making larger garments such as bags and items of clothing, a pattern can direct you to join pieces of crochet together. This is simple enough when it is simply attaching a motif, but when you are seaming together two separate parts of crochet, the process can become a touch more complicated, especially if you discover that the number of stitches do not correspond with each other. When joining pieces you do so stitch by stitch to give a clean finish. Joining a piece worked in rows can be a little more complicated because of the difficulty of working into the row edges. If the number of stitches per row doesn’t correspond then you may have to work more than one joining stitch into each V or row space. It…

Shells, fans and V stitches

In crochet, the terms shell and fan are used interchangeably, but in actual fact they are not quite the same. Where a shell sees you use a solid run of stitches, a fan will utilise the added gap of a chain space (ch-sp). Meanwhile, the V stitch uses fewer stitches, and comprises two stitches in the same stitch, separated by a chain. The result is a singular chain space. Shells and fans typically use five stitches into the same stitch. They are best used with treble (tr) or double treble (dtr) stitches as this makes them more prominent. Below are some examples of how each of these would be worked, and what the end product would look like. “Where a shell sees you use a solid run of stitches, a…

Shells, fans and V stitches

One of the best things about crochet is that you don’t have to do much in order to add an extra little flourish to your work. It’s easy to work up a different type of stitch, change colour or add a motif. A spike stitch is a good example of a really simple way to add detail to your crochet projects, and doesn’t take too much work to incorporate. Adding spike stitches in the same colour is a great way of adding subtle texture to your work, and using a contrasting colours is perfect for adding a statement to your projects. Put simply, a spike stitch is one that extends down more than a single row. You form it by going into the usual V space, but on rows that…

Crossed stitches

Adding detail to your crochet doesn’t need to be difficult, feel like a chore or take too long. In fact, adding a varied stitch during your rows can do a lot to make your work look more interesting, and make it look more impressive than a simple flat piece of crochet. A crossed stitch really isn’t too difficult and can be used with great effect to produce a cable-like look to your projects. You can pair them with multiple other stitches to create a pretty effect that you might not have thought possible due to the simplicity of crochet. There are three different ways in which you can work a crossed stitch. You can either work the second stitch in front or behind the one before it, or you can…

Crossed stitches

Post stitches can be used to add texture to your work and, when worked in the correct pattern, they can create a distinctive ribbing effect. You can see the a good stitch pattern to create ribbing using this stitch on page 124 (post stitch rib). Usually post stitches are worked around treble crochets (tr) or bigger stitches, as double crochets (dc) aren’t really tall enough to get your hook around. However, they can be done quite easily if that is what you want to do, so just follow this guide. It sees you insert your hook around the stitch rather than into the top V to create your next stitch. You can work by inserting your hook from front to back or from back to front, which creates a different…

Chainless foundations

Creating your foundation chain and the subsequent first row of crochet can sometimes result in the chain becoming twisted, but this can be avoided by starting your project with a chainless foundation instead. This combines the foundation chain and the first row in a initial row of crochet rather than two. Using a chainless foundation is a great way to create a stretchy edging compared to a more rigid chain start. Given that you are working the two rows at once, it does take a little longer to work up the chainless foundation than a foundation chain, but it is easier to work your second row into the chainless foundation than into the chain, as you don’t have to worry about your chain becoming too tight or twisting while you…

Chainless foundations

Linked stitches

Tall crochet stitches can end up looking quite loose, especially when the gaps between them are quite big. You can fix this by using linked stitches to close up the gaps. It helps create a solid fabric and produces a nice texture across them as well. You can apply linked stitches to anything taller than a double crochet (dc) by replacing the first yarn over(s) (yo) at the start of the stitch with a loop that links it to the previous stitch. It should be noted that you won’t be counting the turning chain (t-ch) when you use this technique. Here we have used a linked treble crochet (ltr). It can be a little fiddly, but once you get the hang of it, like most crochet techniques, it’s easy! “It…

Linked stitches

Cluster stitches

Cluster stitches is a term that can be used to define several different types of collected stitches, but the most basic type are several incomplete stitches that are joined together at the top to form a triangle. Cluster stitches can be used as a decreases, can form patterns when used with a combination of other stitches and chains. There are no strict rules to follow when it comes to the number of stitches you can use in your cluster, and you can use any long sort of stitch. The pattern you are using will specify what combination of stitches should be used for that pattern, and will never simply define it as a cluster. In this tutorial we will teach you how to do a basic four-treble cluster (4-tr) stitch.…

Cluster stitches

Puff stitches are some of the most unusual crochet stitches you will come across. They don’t involve the usual method of completing a stitch every two loops. Instead, a puff stitch sees you draw up loops to the height of the other stitches and secure these longer, puffed-out pieces of yarn with a stitch at the top. Puff stitches look identical on either side and work brilliantly for projects such as blankets and coasters, when you want them to work either way up. Puff stitches can take a little while to get used to, but just make sure you work them loosely, and you’ll get the hang of it in no time at all. “Puff stitches look identical on either side and work brilliantly for projects such as blankets and…

Popcorn stitches

Popcorn stitches are a great way to add texture to your projects and are one of the only stitches you will use where you need to remove your hook from the working loop in order to complete it. The first time you do this it is quite scary but don’t panic, it will produce a fun stitch in the end and it’s really easy to do. A popcorn stitch sees you create several treble (tr) crochets into a single stitch and then collect them together at the top with a chain stitch. This is what makes it stand out from the fabric. Worked in a thinner yarn it can add fun details, and in a chunky one it can add dramatic and eye-catching finishes. 01 Treble crochets Work four treble…

Popcorn stitches

The term ‘motif’ might be a little confusing, as you may think it will simply refer to the additional little pieces that you add to your crochet projects once complete. In actual fact, when it comes to crochet, a motif is any sort of smaller piece of crochet you create that’s intended to be part of a bigger project, whether this is indeed a flower to be added to a hat, or a granny square intended to be sewn together with other types of square to create a larger final project. Squares are the most common type of motif (most families will somewhere have a granny square blanket, we can all but guarantee it…) but they aren’t just limited to something your granny made in order to pass down. You…

Everybody loves a granny square, but sometimes we want our crochet projects to be more than standard. You can mix up those sorts of projects by adding in the occasional solid square. And it’s as easy as its gappy cousin. Instead of stitching trebles (tr) into chain spaces (ch-sp), simply put them into the tops of each stitch, as you would with any other project. It can be easy to lose the first stitch after a chain space beneath the four stitches within it, but don’t worry – simply pull the stitches back and it will reveal the space to the right of the post that you need to enter into. Each side should have four more stitches, meaning each round should have 16 more stitches than the last. If…

Circle in a square

The granny square technique doesn’t just have to stop at squares. You can use the same technique to create circles and, for an extra flourish in your granny square blanket, you can have circles within squares. You can work them in whatever colour patterns you like, but you can really make the circle detail pop if you use one colour for the circle, followed by another for the square. In the general scheme of working this technique, you will work the first three rounds to form the circle, and then round four works as a transition into the square outline, with the final round working to create the end of the granny square. It might sound a little complicated, but really it’s quite simple if you follow these step-by-step directions.…

Circle in a square

Granny square Make the first square in a project 01 Round 1 Make a magic ring (or chain 4 and join with a sl st into a ring). Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as a tr here and throughout). Working into the ring, 2 tr, ch 1, (3 tr, ch 1) 3 times. Pull your magic ring closed gently. Join with a sl st into the stop of the chain 3 and fasten off. 02 Round 2 Fasten on with your next yarn into any ch-sp. Ch 3, (2 tr, ch 1, 3 tr) in chain ch-sp, ch 1, (3 tr, ch 1, 3 tr, ch 1) into next 3 ch-sp. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. Fasten off. 03 Round 3 Fasten on with next yarn…

Granny triangles

Granny triangle Make a variant of the granny square 01 Round 1 Make a magic ring (or chain 4 and join with a sl st into a ring). Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as a tr here and throughout). Working into the ring, 3 tr, ch 2, (4 tr, ch 2) 2 times. Pull your magic ring closed gently. Join with a sl st into the stop of the chain 3 and fasten off. 02 Round 2 Fasten on with your next yarn into any ch-sp. Ch 3, (3 tr, ch 2, 4 tr) in chain ch-sp, ch 1, (4 tr, ch 2, 4 tr, ch 2) into next 3 ch-sp. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. Fasten off. 03 Round 3 Fasten on with next yarn…

Granny triangles

Crochet flowers are quick and easy to make. They only take a couple of rounds and a few different stitches to create something that looks more complicated than it actually is. Added to a child’s cardigan or to a crocheted hat, these details can really bring a project together. You don’t just have to use them as embellishments, however, you could attach a safety pin to the wrong side of the finished flower to use it as a brooch all on its own. Here we have used just one colour but you could easily use multiple hues to give your flowers a boost. You can make flowers with any size yarn, just make sure you have the correct size hook to suit. Simple flower Make an easy flower in two…

Adding a fringe at the end of any project can be the final detail you need to make it complete, especially when it comes to scarves. You can customise it in several ways, depending on the colour and the length of the fringe, the number of strands per section that you tie on, and you can also vary the gaps between each knot. If you’re using the same colour as your project for your fringe, you can incorporate the ends instead of having to weave them in. And if you’re using a contrasting colours then you can use it to help secure your weaved-in ends! It should be easy to figure out how many strands you need for most projects, by counting how many stitches you want to weave your…

Reverse double crochet

Also known as a crab stitch, the reverse double crochet (rdc) is worked in the opposite direction to what you are used to. Admittedly, it can take a little while to get the hang of this, as it completely goes against the natural order of all things crochet. You will start at the left-hand side of the piece and work towards the right. This means that each of the stitches will be twisted so that the usual V formation is hidden and the edge is neatly finished. Note that you can’t crochet into a reverse double crochet as it doesn’t offer a solid entry point, so make sure you only ever use this technique as a pretty edging to the end of your project. “Each of the stitches will be…

Reverse double crochet

Quite simply, picot edging is a collection of chain stitches that can be added to the edge of your crochet project. They are brought together by a double crochet (dc) into the next stitch (or into the bottom of the chain) or by skipping stitches to create larger loops, also know as open picot. It has the benefit of being really simple to do while managing to look incredibly effective. You can make your picot stitches as long or as short as you like, from using only two extra chains to create a small bobble or a whole load of them to create a fun fringe effect. If you are following a pattern it should state what type of picot edging, and whether to go into the bottom of the…

Stitch pattern gallery

With just three basic crochet stitches – double crochet (dc), treble crochet (tr) and half treble crochet (htr) – you can create a really wide variety of patterns, and these can be used to make many different projects. With these easy stitch patterns you could create a dishcloth, a scarf or even a blanket – anything rectangular in shape. These are all items that don’t require strict measurements, so would make a great starter project if you’re trying to improve your tension and technique. To start off these patterns, make a foundation chain to your desired length, then keep following the pattern until the piece is as large as you would like it to be. “With these easy stitch patterns, you could create a dishcloth, a scarf or even a…

Stitch pattern gallery

Squares baby blanket

NAME: DONNA JONES BIO: Donna Jones designs, edits, writes and teaches handknit and crochet. First taught to knit by her mother when she was four years old, she has been surrounded by yarn for as long as she can remember. She firmly believes creative expression is essential for our wellbeing and aims to facilitate this in others. To find more about Donna, visit her website at donnajonesdesigns.co.uk or find her on Instagram @djonesdesigns DIFFICULTY: SKILLS USED IN THIS PROJECT: Joining new yarn Changing colours Chain start Blocking Joining Solid squares Circle in a square Granny squares Reverse single crochet ALSO BY DONNA: Aran cushion cover (p140) Lace shell-edged shawl (p148) Jumbo rib scarf (p156) “Blocking makes a huge difference to the finish and handle of the blanket” Measurements Blanket measures…

Squares baby blanket

NAME: AMY KEMBER BIO: Amy is a technical writer living in Ottawa, Canada. Her interest in crochet began when she discovered an amigurumi book in a used bookstore. After making a pig, she was instantly hooked. Since 2010, Amy has been designing and selling her own amigurumi patterns on Etsy. www.etsy.com/shop/AmysGurumis/ DIFFICULTY: HOOK 3.75 mm (US F/5) YARN In this project we have used Bernat Handicrafter Cotton. You will need to use DK weight yarn the follow colours: Colour: Skin (1 ball) NOTIONS 1 pair 6 mm safety eyes Yarn needle Fibrefill Brown yarn MEASUREMENTS 23 cm tall SKILLS USED IN THIS PROJECT: Magic Ring Joining Working in the round Standard decreases Pattern HEAD Using 3.75 mm hook, make a magic ring. Round 1: 6 dc into ring and pull…

NAME: MEVLINN GUSICK BIO: Mevlinn is a college graduate with a BFA in Fine Arts Painting. Her interest in knitting and crochet began when her aunt suggested she try knitting. It peaked her curiosity and here she is today, crocheting amigurumi whenever she gets the chance, and giving them to those she loves. www.mevvsan.com DIFFICULTY: HOOK 2.75 mm (US C/2) YARN In this pattern we have used Rosario 4 Catitano. You will need an aran weight yarn in the following colours: Colour 1: Orange (1 ball) Colour 2: Light yellow (oddments) NOTIONS Fibrefill stuffing 12 mm black safety eyes Scissors Yarn needle Stitch marker (optional) MEASUREMENTS 25cm head to tail SKILLS USED IN THIS PROJECT: Magic Ring Joining Back loops only Working in the round Standard increases/decreases Pattern BODY Using…

Textured hot water bottle cosy

NAME: SIAN BROWN BIO: After completing a Fashion/Textiles BA, Sian worked for several years as a designer on factory machine knits for suppliers to the main high street retailers. From there she went on to work as a freelance designer on commercial handknits. Then she turned her hand to design for magazines – both knit and crochet. Her book The Knitted Home is available now, and she has designed for several other titles. DIFFICULTY: SKILLS USED IN THIS PROJECT: Joining new yarn Changing colours Chain start Spike stitches Making eyelets Blocking ALSO BY SIAN: • Traditional tea cosy (p144) Measurements 22cm (8½in) wide x 34cm (13¼in) deep Yarn Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran Fibre content: 55% wool, 33% acrylic, 12% cashmere Ball measurements: 50g/90m/98yd Colour 1: Mulberry; 1 ball Colour 2:…

Textured hot water bottle cosy

Aran cushion cover

NAME: DONNA JONES BIO: Donna Jones designs, edits, writes and teaches handknit and crochet. First taught to knit by her mother when she was four years old, she has been surrounded by yarn for as long as she can remember. She firmly believes creative expression is essential for our wellbeing and aims to facilitate this in others. To find more about Donna, visit her website at donnajonesdesigns.co.uk or find her on Instagram @djonesdesigns DIFFICULTY: SKILLS USED IN THIS PROJECT: Joining new yarn Blocking Joining Double trebles Crossed stitches Post stitches Cluster stitches (bobbles) Buttonholes ALSO BY DONNA: Squares baby blanket (p130) Lace shell-edged shawl (p148) Jumbo rib scarf (p156) Measurements Assembled cushion measures 50 x 50cm (30 x 30in) Yarn Sublime Extra Fine Merino Worsted Fibre content: 100% merino wool…

Aran cushion cover

Traditional tea cosy

NAME: SIAN BROWN BIO: After completing a Fashion/Textiles BA, Sian worked for several years as a designer on factory machine knits for suppliers to the main high street retailers. From there she went on to work as a freelance designer on commercial handknits. Then she turned her hand to design for magazines – both knit and crochet. Her book Knitted Home is available now, and she has designed for several other titles. DIFFICULTY: SKILLS USED IN THIS PROJECT: Joining new yarn Changing colours Chain start Flowers Picot edge Eyelets ALSO BY SIAN: • Textured hot water bottle cosy (p138) Measurements Width: 21.5cm (8.4 in). Depth: 18cm (7.08in) (excluding gathered top). Yarn Drops Alaska Aran Fibre content: 100% wool Ball measurements: 70m/50g/76yd Colour 1: Off-white. Aran weight yarn in the following…

Traditional tea cosy

Spring flowers brooch

NAME: LYNNE ROWE BIO: Lynne Rowe is a freelance knit and crochet designer, technical editor, craft author, tutor, blogger and podcaster from Cheshire. To read more about Lynne’s crochet adventures, read her blog at www.thewoolnest.blogspot.co.uk. DIFFICULTY: SKILLS USED IN THIS PROJECT: Magic loop start Working in the round Flowers ALSO BY LYNNE: • Cosy alpaca mittens (p152) Measurements Each flower measures 9cm across Yarn DMC Woolly Fibre content: 100% merino wool Ball measurements: 125m/136yds Colour 1: Orange Shade 10 (oddment) Colour 2: Cream Shade 03 (oddment) Colour 3: Lime Green Shade 81 (oddment) Tension (gauge) Tension is not critical for this project. Notions 4mm (US G/6) crochet hook Wool needle Brooch back or safety pin Sewing needle and thread Pattern FLOWER With 4mm hook and col 1, make a magic…

Spring flowers brooch

Lacy shell-edged shawl

NAME: DONNA JONES BIO: Donna Jones designs, edits, writes and teaches handknit and crochet. First taught to knit by her mother when she was four years old, she has been surrounded by yarn for as long as she can remember. She firmly believes creative expression is essential for our wellbeing and aims to facilitate this in others. To find more about Donna, visit her website at donnajonesdesigns.co.uk or find her on Instagram @djonesdesigns DIFFICULTY: SKILLS USED IN THIS PROJECT: Joining new yarn Increasing Magic ring Blocking Shell, Fans & V stitches ALSO BY DONNA: Squares baby blanket (p130) Aran cushion cover (p140) Jumbo rib scarf (p156) Measurements The finished shawl measures 160cm (63in) along the top edge and 81cm (31¾ in) deep measured from the top centre to the bottom…

Lacy shell-edged shawl

Cosy alpaca mittens

NAME: LYNNE ROWE BIO: Lynne Rowe is a freelance knit and crochet designer, technical editor, craft author, tutor, blogger and podcaster from Cheshire. To read more about Lynne’s crochet adventures, read her blog at www.thewoolnest.blogspot.co.uk. DIFFICULTY: SKILLS USED IN THIS PROJECT: Half treble crochet Working in the round Front post treble Back post treble ALSO BY LYNNE: • Spring flower corsage (p146) Measurements 18cm long x 20cm around Yarn The Big Scary Bear: 100% British Alpaca Content of yarn: 100% alpaca Yarn Measurements: 50g/100m/109yd Total meterage/yardage: 100g/200m/118yd Colour 1: Pebble x 1 ball Colour 2: Cream x 1 ball Tension 18 htr in the round measure 10cm. Notions 4mm (US G/6) crochet hook Wool needle Pattern notes For the Main Mitten pattern, each round is joined and work is turned…

Cosy alpaca mittens

Honeycomb belle hat

NAME: EMMA WRIGHT BIO: Emma is a designer with a passion for British fashion, flowers and her home county of Yorkshire. See more from her at: www.emmaknitted.co.uk Ravelry username: emmaknitsjumpers Twitter: @Emmaknitted Instagram: @Emmaknitted DIFFICULTY: SKILLS USED IN THIS PROJECT: Working in the round Making bobbles Making a pompom Measurements The hat stretches to fit average female head measuring 51cm (20in) Actual finished measurements: 44cm (17¼in) around brim, 25.5cm (10in) from crown to edge of brim. Yarn Debbie Bliss Roma (Super chunky) Fibre content: 70% wool, 30% Ball measurements: 100g/80m/87yd Colour 1: Coral, 017; 1 ball Colour 2: Citrus, 08; 1 ball Tension (gauge) 7.5 stitches and 6 rows = 10 x 10cm (4 x 4in) over honeycomb puff pattern using 12mm (US O/17) hook. Notions 12 mm (US O/17)…

Honeycomb belle hat

Jumbo rib scarf

NAME: DONNA JONES BIO: Donna Jones designs, edits, writes and teaches handknit and crochet. First taught to knit by her mother when she was four years old, she has been surrounded by yarn for as long as she can remember. She firmly believes creative expression is essential for our wellbeing and aims to facilitate this in others. To find more about Donna, visit her website at donnajonesdesigns.co.uk or find her on Instagram @djonesdesigns DIFFICULTY: SKILLS USED IN THIS PROJECT: Joining new yarn Blocking Post stitches Fringe ALSO BY DONNA: Squares baby blanket (p130) Aran cushion cover (p140) Lace shell-edged shawl (p148) Measurements Scarf measures 24cm (9½in) wide and 210cm (82¾in) long, excluding fringe. Yarn Hayfield Super Chunky with Wool Fibre content: 80% acrylic, 20% wool Ball measurements: 100g/72m/79yd Total meterage/yardage…

Jumbo rib scarf

Crochet glossary

asterisk* A symbol used to mark a point in a pattern row, usually at the beginning of a set of repeated instructions. back loop (BL) only A method of crocheting in which you work into only the back loop of a stitch instead of both loops. back post (BP) stitches Textured stitches worked from the back around the post of the stitch below. ball band The paper wrapper around a ball of yarn that contains information such as fibre content, amount/length of yarn, weight, colour and dye lot. block A finishing technique that uses moisture to set stitches and shape pieces to their final measurements. blocking wire A long, straight wire used to hold the edges of crochet pieces straight during blocking, most often for lace. bobble A crochet stitch…

Crochet glossary

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