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23 Articles

Essential Workers

Essential Workers Lydia Needle’s bees may be small, but they are mighty. Since 2017 they have been the rock stars in her rolling collaborative art project, FIFTY BEES: The Interconnectedness of All Things. Each year, barring pandemics, Lydia creates fifty individual bee art pieces using wool and stitch, then houses them in tiny, lovingly-sourced vintage containers. Alongside this, another fifty artists, makers, writers, or musicians make a brand new companion work in response to the ecology of one of those bees. They become collaborators in this thrilling story and champions of their bee. Each FIFTY BEES exhibition creates a narrative between works and artists. It makes clear how pollinators are completely interlinked with our ecosystem, and our role in their protection. At present, Lydia is busy working on bees 201…

Essential Workers

Project Tickled Pink Enjoy an exquisite botanical study that’s pure stumpwork delight! Simply follow all the steps to capture the delicate beauty of a lace cap hydrangea. BY ANA MALLAH You need 82 stumpwork petals in total. This number may seem overwhelming, but they do make up pretty quickly. I usually put together a little case filled with a square of the fabric in a hoop, the thread colours for a particular shade of the petals, ready-shaped wires, needle, and scissors. I carry the case with me wherever I go. And whenever a spare 5 minutes pops up, I’ll work on a petal or two. Before you know it, they’re all done! YOU WILL NEED MATERIALS • Quilter’s muslin: 60 x 60cm • Wool felt, white: 20 x 20cm •…

Project What’s On NORTH WEST 31 MAY – 26 JUNE 2022 ODYSSEY Chester Cathedral, Chapter House, Chester CH1 2DY Textile 21 are a nine strong contemporary textile group with the aim of producing and exhibiting high quality, innovative work throughout the North West. Their latest exhibition was inspired by Chester Cathedral’s theme of journeys. textile21.co.uk 3 - 22 APRIL 2022 TEN PLUS @ DIDSBURY The Old Parsonage, Stenner Lane, Manchester M20 2RQ A new exhibition presented by Ten Plus Textiles featuring their usual eclectic mix of techniques and inspiration. These demonstrate that the skills with fabric and thread used by this long-established group continue to develop and grow. Open daily, but please call ahead to check best time to visit (0161 445 7661). didsburyparsonagetrust.org.uk EAST MIDLANDS 30 APRIL – 24…

Flight of Fancy

Project Flight of Fancy The sky’s the limit with these swooping swallows and their life-affirming words. Let the upbeat retro feel inspired by vintage tattoos add decorative flair to your home! BY ALISON CARPENTER-HUGHES In folklore, birds are said to fly between worlds. In many cultures they are seen as messengers to and from the celestial world as they can travel between earth and sky. Swallows, in particular, are a perfect symbol of freedom, carrying a message of hope while announcing the coming of Spring and Summer. YOU WILL NEED MATERIALS • Paper: 40 x 40cm • Light to medium blue cotton velvet: 40 x 40cm • Coordinating medium weight fabric for cushion cover back: 45 x 45cm • Medium weight fusible interfacing: 40 x 40cm • Fine or medium…

Flight of Fancy

FREE-MOTION EMBROIDERY

Project KNOW HOW FREE-MOTION EMBROIDERY Free-motion embroidery needs a consistent fast foot pressure, but with calm hoop and needle movement on top. Essentially be Zen with your mind and hands as you sew! Regularly trim any loose threads on the underside of your work so they don’t get caught as you sew. Pull any thread so it’s taut and angle the scissors downwards for a close cut. Regularly check the tension of the fabric in your hoop and tighten when needed. Try to follow the template lines as closely as possible, but don’t worry about perfection. This is about enjoying the process, creating something bespoke and don’t forget, little mistakes can always be sewn over. Sometimes the Solvy can tear, particularly in densely stitched areas. If this happens on a design…

Make a Knife-Pleat Ruffle

Focus HOW-TO Make a Knife-Pleat Ruffle 1 To make the knife-pleat ruffle to finish your cushion project from page 13, you will need: 2 Each ruffle will measure 1in and each pleat will be made with 3 layers of ribbon, meaning 3in of ribbon is needed to complete one ruffle. 3 Make sure the feed dogs on your machine are engaged and fit the straight stitch foot. Thread with matching thread, top and bobbin. 4 Taking the 1in strip of card, place it in line about 1in from one end of the ribbon. 1 5 Fold the ribbon over the card strip, so there is one section of ribbon under the card, and 2 sections on top. 2 6 Flattening the ribbon down, gently remove the card.…

Make a Knife-Pleat Ruffle

Project Night Owl Capture the majesty of a barn owl perched against the night sky, inspired by May Morris place mat designs, and skilfully translated into canvaswork. BY ANNE NORTON I love owls and have been fortunate to get to know several through the local falconry display in York Museum gardens. Barn owls are striking yet familiar. It’s thrilling to work from my own photographs and experience. YOU WILL NEED MATERIALS • 18TPI canvas: 10 x 10in • Appletons crewel wool, 1 skein: - 991 White - 987 Putty grounding - 475 Autumn-yellow - 143 Dull rose pink - 305 Red fawn - 967 Iron grey - 998 Charcoal • Appletons crewel wool, 2 skeins: - 473 Autumn-yellow - 749 Bright china-blue (Names relate to the colour range.) • Gütermann…

Feature The Red Dress One remarkable garment, travelling the world and unifying hundreds of female embroiderers. Read the personal experiences of those who have become part of this amazing project. BY SARAH ASHFORD One dreary afternoon in November last year, I was nonchalantly scrolling through Instagram, more out of habit than interest. When suddenly, a post popped up that stopped me in my tracks. On my phone screen was something so beautiful, exquisite, and colourful that I had to take a second look. It was a woman, wearing a garment deep red in colour, fitted at the chest and waist with long flowing skirts. The bodice was perhaps boned, with tiny round buttons down the centre and long sleeves finished with colourful cuff s. Of course, seeing a woman in…

NINA GRONW-LEWIS

NINA GRONW-LEWIS It is a huge honour to be in the presence of The Red Dress. You feel the energy of all the other women and hear their stories through the stitches. It can be quite overwhelming and emotional. To be invited by Kirstie to join this incredible work was a privilege. The brief was to create something that had personal meaning. At the time I did not realise how my work would resonate so strongly with others. My grandmother taught me to knit, stitch and crochet. She was a wise and gifted woman; she nurtured my creative flair. Her favourite flower was the snowdrop. Born and brought up in Somerset I learned of many folk tales and visited the landmark Tor in Glastonbury many times. On the tower is…

NINA GRONW-LEWIS

LYDIA NEEDLE It was such a profound and joyous experience working on The Red Dress, stitching in the gaps between the embroideries of so many talented hands. I chose bees as tribute to those women around the planet, our families, and the natural world. I picked seven of the bees I created for FIFTY BEES; each had been companioned and championed by seven members of my family. This is the Queen Moss Carder Bee, for which my daughter, Grace, made the companion piece. This little insect was once widespread in Britain but has suffered a severe decline. In honour of it, and my daughter, it’s now stitched on the bodice of The Red Dress. lydianeedle.com instagram.com/lydianeedle…

Fly Away… …Home!

Project Fly Away… …Home! Discover the delights of punch needle embroidery. It’s quick-to-master, relaxing to do and creates gorgeous, textured results! BY LISA STEED DAVEY Punch needle embroidery is usually featured on big projects like cushions and wall hangings. I like to work on a much smaller scale. This project is a great way to learn the basic techniques, plus the finished embroidery can be made into a simple brooch. YOU WILL NEED MATERIALS • Natural linen: 15 x 15cm • Avalon Fix: 9 x 9cm • DMC Cébélia No20 crochet cotton: - 310 Black - 666 Bright red • Self-cover metal button: 38mm • Black felt: small disc • Brooch pin • Mod Podge glue EQUIPMENT • Punch needle embroidery (PNE) pen • PNE threader • Embroidery hoop: 12.5cm…

Fly Away… …Home!

Come Rain Come Shine

Project Come Rain Come Shine Be prepared for all weathers with a shimmering silverwork umbrella and a sunny goldwork parasol. Two classy designs featuring lots of different threads, wires, and techniques! BY ILKE COCHRANE Umbrellas have always appealed as a shape, so it made sense to use it in embroidery. The process started with sketches and scribbling down ideas. This led to a combined umbrella/parasol design to commemorate our eldest son’s wedding, incorporating his and his wife’s names with some pearls and spangles. But from the start I had more blingy ideas. Enjoy! YOU WILL NEED MATERIALS • Silk dupion from The Silk Route: - HA 17 Turquoise Blue: 35 x 35cm - JB 46 Mandarin: 35 x 35cm • Lightweight calico: 35 x 35cm, x2 • White-on-white patterned cotton:…

Come Rain Come Shine

Feature Fancy A Cuppa? Pop the kettle on and settle down to find out how Chris Yates transforms used teabags into a suitable surface for all sorts of embroidery and textile applications. I have always had a love of sewing since doing O- and A-level textiles at school. I went on to do a degree in textiles. But it wasn’t until my children were in secondary school that I really had the opportunity to get back to my love of stitching. I enrolled at the local college to do a City & Guilds in Embroidery and went on to complete my Diploma in 2012. This is really the first time I had taken a creative approach to textiles, and I found that I loved it. It felt like a whole…

Your next issue…

Your next issue… STITCH: MAKING BEAUTIFUL EMBROIDERY EASY DISCO DAVE Loëtitia Gibier redefines fab-u-lous with her over-the-top glitzy goldwork chameleon. QUALITY TIME Make every second count with the intricate blackwork in Debbie Harding’s colour wheel clock. SHRIVEL UP & DYE Pay close attention as Mary McIntosh takes the art of fabric manipulation to a new level. MAGNIFICENT MAGNOLIA Claire Muir shares all the steps to translate this impressive bloom into thread. * Sowing Seeds: Jill Kipnis jazzes up a plain sweatshirt with a stylish allium seed head motif. * Cat Napping: Wind down with Alex Law’s dreamy eye mask laced with extra stitching pleasure. * Cave Art: Jay Hooper takes a step back in time with prehistoric embroidery on a mammoth scale! * Need for Speed: Get great results in…

Your next issue…

Project Under the Sea Make a splash with paint, silk, and stitch to create your own bright and beautiful crab. BY JACQUI PARKINSON YOU WILL NEED MATERIALS • Linen or cotton sheeting • Wadding • Red thread for tacking • Thick black embroidery thread • Assorted dyes and paints in sea colours • Fabric strips for background in sea colours • Fabric pieces for crab: - Bright red/deep orange - Orange - Black, for the pincers - White, for the eyes EQUIPMENT • Sewing machine set up for free-motion embroidery • Scissors • Needle • Paint brushes • Pencil or pen • Lint roller or sticky tape Finished size: 30 x 21cm A ready-to-make kit for the crab is available to buy from: www.jacqui-textile.com/shop PREPARATION 1 Assemble your materials. Cut…

The White Dress

Feature The White Dress What happens when you become personal stylist to your textile life? Find out how to tailor key moments to create a truly unique garment. BY WENDY DOLAN There is nothing more satisfying than creating something yourself. This personal piece of artwork illustrates my journey in textiles from an early age. Fabric and thread have always been my passion and began while making dolls clothes and dolls house furnishings as a child. This developed into making clothes for myself and family members. At the age of twelve, I became fascinated by the church embroidery worked by one of the parishioners. Intricate hand embroidery which had a beautiful quality and texture. Due to my interest, I was asked if I would like to be shown how to hand…

The White Dress

Project Tree of Life Combine a soft rainbow palette with beginner-friendly wool appliqué and a handful of stitches to make a tablet case. Simple, pretty, and effective! BY MAGGIE GEE In a world where we increasingly think about our carbon footprint, making handy things for ourselves or gifting ‘you-made’ items are happily becoming more popular than ever! What could be more useful than this gorgeous tablet case? It’s so easy to adapt to suit any size. YOU WILL NEED MATERIALS • Tablet case outer, navy blue wool: 60 x 50cm • Tablet case lining, russet velvet: 50 x 35cm • Wool felt for leaves and trunk: - Brown: 15 x 20cm - Red: 12 x 12cm - Russet: 12 x 12cm - Yellow: 12 x 12cm - Green: 12 x…

THOUGHTS ON FABRIC & COLOUR

Project KNOW HOW THOUGHTS ON FABRIC & COLOUR I have always loved American primitive folk art. My fabric and colour choices reflect this homespun style. Opting to use wool and velvet for the inner and outer fabrics creates natural padding and a soft surface for the screen to prevent unwanted scratches. Other ideal fabrics for the outer include: wool mix, Italian coat fabric, felt and short pile fleece. The wool felt used for the tree trunk and leaves is all hand-dyed, often repurposed from items destined for landfill. As my inspiration has been ‘Americana,’ I’ve used muted rainbow colours. However, the design is very flexible. For best results, I recommend keeping your palette small and within a nice coordinating shade family. If you are using your own scraps of fabric or…

WHAT IS STITCH & TEAR

Project KNOW HOW WHAT IS STITCH & TEAR Stitch & Tear is a fine adhesive-coated tissue that forms a nonpermanent bond to fabric. It’s slightly see-through, like tracing paper. This makes it easy to transfer designs to the matt side with a pen or pencil. Then simply place the shiny side down on to the fabric and fuse with the heat from an iron. Once in place, Stitch & Tear can be sewn on to or cut out, and when you’re finished you just peel it away. It makes cutting out small shapes accurately effortless. Alternative options include: freezer paper, Fuse & Tear and Bondaweb.…

MASTER BLANKET STITCH

Project HOW-TO MASTER BLANKET STITCH Come up at A and hold the thread down with your thumb and go down at B, then emerge at C whilst bringing the thread under the tip of the needle. Keep your vertical leg stitches straight and even. Blanket stitch can be worked from right to left, working away from you over the edge. Or it can be worked from left to right, working towards you over the edge. If you need to join thread, then anchor it on the outside edge then bring the new thread up in the same place. For inverted corners, anchor the threads at the inner point of the corner with the stitch legs splayed. Then continue up the other side. For sharp corners, anchor the threads at the tip…

MASTER BLANKET STITCH

Sparkle and Shine

Focus Sparkle and Shine Priceless nuggets to get your goldwork looking its best! BY ILKE COCHRANE IMPORTANT! As a rule, use a single sewing thread for couching, and a double for chipping and cutwork. And always run your thread through beeswax before stitching. ATTACH FELT PADDING 1 Use the same technique for appliqué fabric and kid leather. Fasten on a single sewing thread inside the shape to be covered. Secure the piece to the ground fabric with 4 small stab stitches - at the top, bottom, right and left. Always bring the needle up just on the outside of the fabric and go down into it. 1 2 Fill the gaps between the securing stitches making sure corners or points are securely stitched down. 2 COUCHING METAL THREADS 1 Metal…

Sparkle and Shine

Templates Templates All the templates, guides and patterns you will need to complete this issue’s projects. Please note the scale before starting. Flight of Fancy Page 13 WHEN PRINTED THIS LINE SHOULD MEASURE 5CM IMPORTANT! To make it easier to line up your tracing, the design is repeated in the coloured section. Once you have drawn key elements in this section, move your paper over, align and complete the design transfer. Tickled Pink Page 7 Scale: 100% WHEN PRINTED THIS LINE SHOULD MEASURE 5CM Night Owl Page 19 Scale: 100% WHEN PRINTED THIS LINE SHOULD MEASURE 5CM Come Rain, Come Shine Page 32 Scale: 100% WHEN PRINTED THIS LINE SHOULD MEASURE 5CM Under The Sea Page 44 Scale: 100% WHEN PRINTED THIS LINE SHOULD MEASURE 5CM Fly Away Home! Page…

Stitch Guide STITCH GUIDE Applying a Sequin See guide on page 55. Back Stitch Bring thread through on the stitch line and take a small backward stitch through the fabric. Bring the needle through again a little in front of the first stitch, take another stitch, inserting the needle at the point where it first came through. Repeat. Blanket Stitch See guide on page 52. Byzantine Stitch A flat stitch that gives a smooth surface and fills areas quickly making it great for large background areas. Each diagonal stitch is worked four threads across and up. Groups of stitches can be worked horizontally, vertically or alternated between the two. The latter creates a stepped effect. Cashmere Diagonal Stitch A rectangular block of 4 stitches worked diagonally. The first stitch is…

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