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28 Articles

IF YOU EVER FIND YOURSELF IN LOS ANGELES ON A THURSDAY AFTERNOON, OR DURING THE WEEKEND BETWEEN MIDDAY AND 6PM, HERE IS WHAT YOU SHOULD DO

Take a bus from whichever glamorous side of town the celebrity tours have swept you, and head to a little-visited street in Culver City, well off the tourist drag. There, wedged between a panel beater and an abandoned real estate office, you will find a nondescript and infrequently open building known, by the few who know about it, as the Museum of Jurassic Technology. Inside you will encounter exhibitions on a range of strange and wonderful topics. There’s a section devoted to the Cameroonian stink ant, which spouts fungal horns from its heads, and is so large its cries can be heard by the human ear. Next is a display on a South American bat known as the “piercing devil”, which can supposedly fly through solid objects. These are followed by…

THE SHEPHERDS Few people could legitimately place wolves high on their list of major occupational hazards. But for Jérémy Bertrand and Claire Texier, the re-emergence of wolves in southern France is causing a peculiar headache. Decades of hunting programs had wiped out France’s wolves by the 1930s, to the relief of many farmers – and the later regret of environmentalists. But in the early 1990s the animals began to reappear, crossing the Alps from Italy and moving into forested areas that had sprung up as people moved to the cities. Enter Bertrand and Texier, both in their 30s, who’ve chosen careers that stretch back to the dawn of civilisation: herding sheep. It means living a fairly ordinary life for approximately half the year, before taking off on a grand annual adventure come summer.…

ALEXEY ILDUTOV’S EYES WERE ALWAYS DRAWN TOWARDS THE SKY. As a child he spent hours watching the Tupolev airliners that soared above the skies of Tolyatti, the industrial Russian city he called home, and passed the time imitating their distinct whistle and roar. When the planes weren’t around, he’d watch birds instead. When he was finally old enough to earn some pocket money, Ildutov saved up all his rubles and bought himself a remote-controlled plane, the kind you had to spend hours assembling yourself. “From a distance, it looked like a soaring eagle,” he recalls now. “Then I would bring it in closer and you could see it was my plane. I was high on life when I was flying.” It could have been the beginning of a beautiful career. But, Ildutov, now…

dogged by success

THREE SAINT BERNARDS, ONE COLLIE, A SPOTTED HOUND AND TWO BULLDOGS ARE SITTING AROUND A GREEN FELT TABLE, PLAYING POKER. It’s 1:10am and the whisky is three claws deep. Two of the dogs are smoking pipes, while the grey bulldog chomps a Churchillian cigar (perhaps to distract from the ace he’s slipping his partner beneath the table). The collie’s already lost his collar, and has the inebriated grin of the serial gambler who’s one paw away from betting the kennel. A few storm-tossed sailboats bob on the back wall. The painting is A Friend in Need, but you probably know it as ‘Dogs Playing Poker’. Virtually everyone is familiar with the scene, but like most familiar things, there’s more to know than most people realise. A Friend in Need was painted in 1903…

dogged by success

10 things i believe

IF WE DETECT AN ALIEN SIGNAL, WE WOULD LEARN SOMETHING INCREDIBLE: THAT IT’S POSSIBLE FOR US TO HAVE A LONG FUTURE. PUT YOUR FOOT DOWN Growing up, my dad was my entire universe. He was an outdoorsman, so I grew up hunting, fishing and camping. Then when I was about eight, my mother had a conversation with him and he subsequently told me I needed to learn how to do ‘girl things’. He couldn’t have said anything that would have made me angrier. After I pulled out the tears he finally said, “Look, if you’re willing to work hard, you can do whatever you want.” So I stamped my foot down and said, “I’m going to be an engineer.” I didn’t even know what an engineer was; I just knew my father…

10 things i believe

fermenting revolution

“A LOT OF THESE TRADITIONS – SOME OF WHICH CAN BE TRACED BACK THOUSANDS UPON THOUSANDS OF YEARS – ARE DYING.” WHEN IT COMES TO FERMENTATION, THE WORD ‘ANCIENT’ BARELY BEGINS TO COVER IT. A benign, controlled form of rot, the practice pre-dates writing and may have given agriculture a run for its money too. You can find its roots in the very beginnings of civilisation, when early humans discovered an alchemy that allowed them to store food over the winter, giving humanity a competitive advantage it never looked back from. Almost every culture on Earth practises fermentation in some way, whether it’s making beer and wine – the first deliberately fermented products – or bread, cheese, yoghurt, chocolate, vinegar, soy sauce, tofu, tempeh, kimchi… well, you get the idea. Tasmanian chef Adam…

fermenting revolution

ACCORDING TO BOOTMAKING LORE, IN 1813 A CORDWAINER NAMED GEORGE HOBY WAS OUTFITTING THE DUKE OF KENT WITH SOME NEW KICKS WHEN WORD FILTERED THROUGH OF NAPOLEON’S DEFEAT AT VITTORIA, SPAIN. Hoby, the shoemaker of choice for the battle’s victor, evidently thought some of the credit belonged to him. “If Lord Wellington had had any other bootmaker than myself,” he’s said to have informed the Duke, “he never would have had his great and constant successes; for my boots and prayers bring his lordship out of all his difficulties.” A grandiose statement, perhaps, but Hoby’s brag might not actually have been all that overblown. After all, Hoby had designed a new kind of boot for Wellington’s cavalry, and their hardiness made them perfect for wearing into battle. Before their invention, much of…

ROBERT WEBB THE COMEDIAN AND PEEP SHOW STAR DOESN’T WANT TO ‘MAN UP’, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

I’ve always had a preoccupation with gender and masculinity, partly because I found all those rules about how you’re supposed to be a boy a bit of a tight fit. You’re supposed to love football and climbing trees and science. You’re supposed to be cheeky and boisterous. But I was almost completely mute and couldn’t do any of that stuff. I remember acutely the time that, through no fault of my own, I had to do sports day in girls’ socks. The trauma has stayed with me to adulthood. There’s a lot of behavioural repression that goes into making a boy a man, but much more concerning is the emotional repression we foist on boys. When you’re told to “be a man” and “man up”, what you’re actually hearing is, “Stop…

nothing but a good time

WE HAVE JUST SEEN A SIGNIFICANT ANNIVERSARY OF ONE OF BRITISH MUSIC’S LANDMARK ALBUMS. A COMPLICATED, BOUNDARY-PUSHING STUDIO PROJECT WHICH SOLD TENS OF MILLIONS OF COPIES, TRANSFORMED THE BAND’S SOUND, AND EMBEDDED A SLEW OF NEW SONGS IN THE POPULAR CONSCIOUSNESS. It was an album created by working-class, northern men with a profound grasp of pop history, and it changed the sound and feel of everything that came after it. It pushed the idea of what a guitar band could do and be to its limit, the ambition on display propelling the group to a position that they could not sustain and would never again reach. That album was Def Leppard’s Hysteria. Yet in a year when endless column inches have been devoted to exhuming – again – the remains of Sgt.…

nothing but a good time

IN 2014 I MOVED TO IDAHO, AND I BEGAN EXPLORING THE AREA’S SAGEBRUSH-COVERED DESERT, WHICH IS OPEN FOR PUBLIC USE. I quickly discovered it was popular with gun owners, who used it for practice shooting. Many of the targets they used were ordinary consumer products, which were often left behind. The Bureau of Land Management describes these items as “trigger trash”. I began collecting trigger trash, partly to help with the cleanup effort, but mostly because it looked interesting. I realised the items could be classified as cultural artefacts, and decided to photograph them in an archaeological style. The background colours were sampled from the desert where the items were found, and represent the geography and its flora. I collected about 150 items all up. I threw most away, but I kept…

IF YOU ARE LIKE MOST PEOPLE, THE LAST TIME YOU THOUGHT SERIOUSLY ABOUT ORIGAMI WAS IN PRIMARY SCHOOL. In those days, origami was code for a collection of roughly folded cranes, frogs and boats that seemed to exhaust the limit of the form somewhere around the 10 crease. It was literal child’s play: an antiquated pastime, useful to fill an afternoon, but little more. Robert J. Lang is not like most people. A one-time laser physicist with NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory, the branch of NASA dedicated to interplanetary exploration, Lang found in origami a lifelong obsession, a quest to find the outer limits of what was possible with nothing except a sheet of paper, your ingenuity and the basic laws of physics. Now he uses those same techniques to solve seemingly impossible…

great woman of history

BORN: December 15, 1900, Eure-et-Loir, France DIED: October 1, 1984, Nice, France THE FLOWERS ON THE CAR WERE THE SOLE INDICATION THAT A WOMAN WAS DRIVING. It was May 1903, and only one female driver was brave enough to get behind the wheel for the 1400-kilometre car race from Paris to Madrid. Known for wearing conspicuous goggles and heavy gloves to protect her in the open-air vehicle, she had begrudgingly allowed the hood of her de Dietrich to be decorated with garlands that signalled to spectators that one of the 200-odd drivers in the race was a woman. The driver was Camille du Gast, and one of those spectators was a three-year-old Hellé Nice. Born Mariette Hélène Delangle in 1900 (although, as biographer Miranda Seymour notes in her 2004 book Bugatti Queen, “1905 was…

great woman of history

here be monsters

AHUIZOTL The Aztec emperor Ahuizotl was arguably pre-Columbian Mesoamerica’s scariest badass. Between 1486 and 1502, he conquered 45 neighbouring territories, doubling his empire’s size. He also coldly ordered 20,000 people to be sacrificed during renovations to the capital city, Tenochtitlán. So of course this guy would name himself after Aztec mythology’s squickiest monster. With a name meaning ‘thorny aquatic one’, the ahuizotl looks like a small dog with rubbery black fur that stands up in clumpy spikes, and grabby little hands like those of a monkey or raccoon. According to folklore, it lures you to the water’s edge by imitating a crying baby, then uses the extra hand on its flexible tail to drag you to its underwater cave home. There, the ahuizotl feasts on your teeth, eyes and fingernails. The rest…

here be monsters

desert sessions

IN A DESERT CAMP 330 KILOMETRES WEST OF TIMBUKTU, A SMALL BAND OF MEN ARE TINKERING WITH WIRES, JERRY CANS, RADIO TRANSISTORS AND MOTORBIKE BATTERIES. Kaftans shroud their movements and turbans cloak their faces. The dialect they’re conversing in is a medley of Arabic and Tamasheq; the ideals they’ve converged to exalt: faith, courage, revolution, sacrifice. A few have come bearing axes. “One of the challenges of making music in the desert is that instruments rarely work properly,” says Jean-Marc Caimi, a French musician and photographer who visited the Mauritanian camp after hearing about the music scene developing there. “The heat melts wires so they make a constant buzzing sound. Things come unstuck and unglued. It makes the music unstable.” If it sounds like Caimi is begrudging the rumpty set-up, he’s not:…

desert sessions

LOOKING OVER MOTELS LIKE THE SANDS, ARCHITECTURAL HISTORIAN SIMON REEVES CAN’T HELP BUT GET EXCITED. Maybe it’s the bright Las Vegas-style lettering on the front wall, or the illuminated sign with its angled posts and geometric shapes. It could also be the canopy made of concrete shell arches. “It’s so striking,” Reeves says. “I don’t have to squint my eyes to see beauty in these types of buildings.” The Sands could be straight out of a 1950s Hollywood road movie, yet it sits right in the heart of Adelaide, the city of churches. It was the start of the atomic age when the motel was built, and Australia’s designers were just starting to embrace America’s ‘Googie’ architecture – a style built on wild exaggeration, dramatic angles and futuristic ideas. Googie came about with…

Tell us about yourself. I run a tattoo supply store in Geelong North, Victoria, selling inks, flash art sets and tattoo machines. I started by making my own machines in the late 1980s. Back then there were only about 400 tattooists in the country, so I’d pull the pages out of the phone book and travel from shop to shop, showing them what I was making. Nowadays there’s probably 10,000 tattooists in Australia. I can’t make enough machines to keep up with demand, so I mainly import them now. But I still hand-make machines for myself when I have the time. How’d you get into this line of work? I became a toolmaker’s apprentice when I was 19. One day during our lunch break a friend asked me to watch him…

if these walls could talk

THE SAYDNAYA MILITARY PRISON IN SYRIA IS A LITERAL AND FIGURATIVE BLACK SPOT. An assembly line of torture where thousands have died since 2011, it has been called, by the few who have made it out, the worst place on earth. Initially, escapees didn’t have many more words to describe it: they spent most of their time inside blindfolded. This detail may seem trivial compared to the other abuses they endured. But so long as the prison couldn’t be described, it remained out of view not just of the prisoners, but also of human rights groups, journalists and others who might have the power to intervene. At least it did, until Eyal Weizman and his team came along. Weizman, 47, is a brusque-talking professor at the University of London, where he runs…

if these walls could talk

the true history of the illuminati

DESPITE WHAT THEY MAY CLAIM – OR EVEN BELIEVE – THE AVERAGE CONSPIRACY THEORIST DOES NOT FEAR THAT THE WORLD IS BEING MANIPULATED BY A SECRETIVE CONFEDERACY OF NEFARIOUS AND UNACCOUNTABLE PLOTTERS. Rather, the average conspiracy theorist fears that it is not. Conspiracy theories flourish, like religions, in that portion of the human mind unable to cope with the idea that our existence is a fluke, that our lives are ultimately trivial, and that our world is a circus of chaos in which no end of unfair, unfortunate or downright weird stuff just happens – and could, therefore, happen to us. Religious believers tend to place their faith in extraterrestrial apparitions: omniscient gods pulling the levers of fate. By contrast, the conspiracy theorist insists that human affairs are orchestrated by yet more…

the true history of the illuminati

IN 1958, NEWLYWEDS GRACE AND EUGENE ‘BUSTER’ RAWSON SET OFF ON THEIR HONEYMOON IN A FORD VAN. They took a tent with them and, for four weeks, zigzagged their way around the North and South Islands of New Zealand. For Grace, it was part pilgrimage – for the previous five years, she had been working at Whites Aviation in Auckland, hand-colouring photographs of New Zealand landscapes. The trip was a chance to visit spots she’d been painting to make sure she’d been getting the colours right. But more than anything, it was simply an opportunity to see as much of the country as possible. “Mr White started up an acceptance and love of New Zealand for me,” she says. Rawson wasn’t the only one; for decades from the late ’40s, Whites Aviation’s…

signs of the times

The Take Me Seriously, Pls Eric Wareheim, actor and one half of comedy duo Tim & Eric In Roman times, Christians greeted each other by drawing fish symbols in the sand with their feet. It was a surreptitious way of announcing who you were on the inside. Comedian Eric Wareheim feels the need for something similar. “I love me a quality restaurant and some beautiful wine. But because of my casual dress code, I often get overlooked as a serious wine drinker.” Wareheim admits the ‘Take Me Seriously, Pls’, a contorted take on the rock‘n’roll ‘devil’s horns’, is needlessly complicated. But the results would be worth the effort. “In an ideal world, if you throw this down as the waiter comes and greets you, they’ll know it means, ‘I am serious about…

signs of the times

the accidental ambassador

ONE OF THE MANY QUIRKS ABOUT VISITING ABKHAZIA, A SEPARATIST TERRITORY ON THE BLACK SEA CLAIMED BY GEORGIA, IS THE PROCESS OF OBTAINING A VISA. Prospective travellers do not attend grand embassies with officious consular staff, nor waste hours in visa-on-arrival lines at overcrowded airports. To get permission to visit this picturesque breakaway state in the Caucasus, intrepid tourists email Professor George Hewitt. An affable 68-year-old with greying hair and a scholarly manner, Hewitt serves as Abkhazia’s honorary consul to the U.K. He is, essentially, an unofficial ambassador for an unofficial state. In addition to issuing colourful visas and providing travel advice, the recently retired academic advocates for the Abkhazian cause. This is no small task. More than two decades after seceding from Georgia in an ethnically charged conflict, Abkhazia is recognised by…

the accidental ambassador

listen up: stephin merritt

WHEN I FIRST HEARD ‘CALL YOUR GIRLFRIEND’, IN 2012, AT NEW YORK’S GREAT BASEMENT GAY BAR, NOWHERE, THE ODDLY ACCENTED, ANDROGYNOUS VOICE SOARING OVER PERCOLATING SYNTHS MADE ME SURE THIS MUST BE SOME EARLY ’80S, EURO-FUTURIST CLASSIC THAT HAD SOMEHOW ESCAPED MY NOTICE. But no! It was a new record by Swedish retro-electropop dance diva Robyn, of ‘Dancing On My Own’ fame, taking her lyrical sophistication up a notch to bring us a nonstop ecstatic dance track that can actually make a grown man cry. (At least a certain gay man, under the right conditions.) The unusual lyric situation of ‘Call Your Girlfriend’ is that the narrator exhorts her new lover (you) to telephone your current lover and dump her, explaining that you just met the narrator, and it’s not your girlfriend’s…

listen up: stephin merritt

SANFORD BERMAN HAS MADE A CAREER WAGING WAR ON HOW LIBRARIES CLASSIFY THEIR BOOKS. WELCOME TO THE RADICAL WORLD OF GUERRILLA CATALOGUING.

For much of my early life, I preferred reading to almost anything else, so in high school I applied to be a messenger clerk, the lowest possible class of library worker. They handed me a mop and told me to clean up the child’s pee that had accumulated in a corner of the fairytale section. I figured it could only get better, right? I had no idea. When I was older, I married a black woman who worked at the UCLA research library. She was anxious to get out of Los Angeles, and Africa seemed like a nice place for travel and enlightenment. That’s how we got to Zambia. I started working at a university library, and I discovered they were assigning subject headings like ‘Kafir’ – which means ‘infidel’ in…

strange medicine

IT REMAINS TO BE SEEN WHETHER THE “ODOROUS SLIME” WILL HAVE A ROLE TO PLAY IN THE COMING WAR ON SUPERBUGS, BUT IT’S CLEAR THAT ANCIENT TEXTS ARE AN UNTAPPED RESOURCE. AT FIRST GLANCE, CHRISTINA LEE MAY SEEM AN UNLIKELY ACTOR IN THE LIFE-AND-DEATH BATTLE TO SAVE HUMANITY. An associate professor in Viking studies at the University of Nottingham, Lee has written books on such pressing matters as Anglo-Saxon funerary rites, and teaches classes on Old English and Old Norse literature. Recently, though, the School of English academic has been spending her time investigating things crucial to more than just our understanding of axe-wielding Europeans. And her research may just help solve one of the most pressing medical crises we face today. As a rule, universities tend to keep their liberal arts and…

strange medicine

the keyhole surgeon

THE LOCKS ON AARON SMITH’S MELBOURNE HOME ARE NOTHING SPECIAL. “THEY’RE JUST NORMAL MODERN LOCKS,” HE SAYS. “THEY LOOK STURDY AND ROBUST, AND ARE PROBABLY GOING TO DETER 99.9 PER CENT OF PEOPLE.” But in the small workshop out the back, Smith finds himself surrounded by ancient locks and keys. A locksmith specialising in traditional techniques, Smith calls himself the Keyhole Surgeon. Among his more interesting jobs, he has worked on locks from Pentridge Prison and the National Gallery of Victoria’s collection of antique furniture. He’s also made a key for an antique Indonesian safe and dealt with a pair of tiny handcuffs from “bushranger territory, used to secure juvenile offenders.” To do his work, he uses a bunch of 1800s-style hand tools. “The best way to look after these locks is…

the keyhole surgeon

full body portrait

Tell us a bit about yourself. I’m an Austrian artist and illustrator currently based in San Francisco, though I travel all around the world. I mainly do big murals out on the street or ink drawings, but I paint on canvas too. How do you describe your art? I say I use anatomy to investigate the stuff we usually look away from, whether it’s body parts or certain thoughts. My illustrations aren’t just about organs and bones, even if those are the first things most people see when they look at my work. Are your artworks anatomically accurate? I don’t have any formal education in anatomy. But I grew up in a family of hunters, so as a child I was exposed to the insides of all kinds of animals on a…

full body portrait

how to be a hermit

IT TURNS OUT DOING NOTHING IS HARD WORK, AND ACKNOWLEDGING THE PARADOX DOESN’T ALLEVIATE THE SYMPTOMS. THE YOUNG MAN SWUNG THE AXE AND BIT DEEP INTO THE TRUNK OF A WHITE PINE. IT WAS MARCH IN MASSACHUSETTS, 1845, AND WINTER HADN’T QUITE LEFT THE FOREST. On a fine day the mercury might climb to nine degrees, but below freezing wasn’t uncommon either. A little way off, the ice on Walden Pond was beginning to thaw, and in the hickories all around you could hear the larks and pewees, happy to see some spring sunshine at last. The man was Henry David Thoreau, a teacher, essayist and sometime poet, and he was felling timber for his house. It was going to be a simple, one-room cottage with a stone chimney, two windows, and an…

how to be a hermit

15 P Phosphorus 30.974

THE YEAR 1669 MUST HAVE BEEN A STRANGE ONE FOR HENNIG BRAND. Over the course of several months, the Hamburg alchemist had collected 5,500 litres of urine, left his spoils to stand until they were putrid, boiled the resulting matter down to a paste, mixed it with sand, cooked it some more, and passed the emanating vapours through water. The small glob of waxy material he was left with glowed in the dark. For someone trying to create gold, the luminous substance must have seemed like a promising start. But once he examined it closely, Brand was forced to admit that, by distilling wee, he hadn’t become the first person to uncover the Philosopher’s Stone. What he had become, rather, was the first person to have actively discovered a new chemical element.…

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