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52 Articles

Thank you, Namibia!

On our way to Namibia, somewhere on the N7, we heard that masks were no longer compulsory. It was the day before the start of the winter school holidays and the Noordoewer border post was quiet. There were only a few other vehicles at Amanzi River Camp, which I thought odd, until we woke on the Saturday morning and discovered the campsite was full to the brim. The campsite at Sesriem was also fully booked. The receptionist said she was so happy that South Africans had started to travel again. Even better: The guestbook there showed names from other countries, too: Poland, the Czech Republic, Germany… Namibia’s wide-open spaces were blanketed in yellow grass and there was water at Sossusvlei – an unusual sight caused by the high rainfall earlier this year. Everywhere…

Thank you, Namibia!

Thank you, Namibia!

On our way to Namibia, somewhere on the N7, we heard that masks were no longer compulsory. It was the day before the start of the winter school holidays and the Noordoewer border post was quiet. There were only a few other vehicles at Amanzi River Camp, which I thought odd, until we woke on the Saturday morning and discovered the campsite was full to the brim. The campsite at Sesriem was also fully booked. The receptionist said she was so happy that South Africans had started to travel again. Even better: The guestbook there showed names from other countries, too: Poland, the Czech Republic, Germany… Namibia’s wide-open spaces were blanketed in yellow grass and there was water at Sossusvlei – an unusual sight caused by the high rainfall earlier…

Thank you, Namibia!

BEHIND THE SCENES

Steve Braine, bird guide and owner of The Naturalist Collection, shares his knowledge of Namibia’s best birding spots (p 34). Why birding? It was in the genes. My grandfather, Herbert Hambly Parker, bred birds and had huge aviaries. He wrote the first book on aviculture in South Africa. My father Jack was a keen birder, and he collected succulents and other plants. I grew up in a small town called Kombat between Otavi and Grootfontein in a naturalist family – there were always loads of interesting things in our house. Tell us about your background. I studied conservation and worked for the Ministry of Environment and Tourism for 11 years; eight years at Möwe Bay in the Skeleton Coast National Park and three years in the Zambezi Region, based in Katima Mulilo.…

BEHIND THE SCENES

COMPULSORY STUFF PASSPORT. It needs to be valid for six months or more from the date you plan to leave Namibia, and it should have at least two blank pages. BIRTH CERTIFICATES. All children under 18 need an unabridged birth certificate to cross the border unless they have a new passport with their parents’ names listed in the back. DRIVING LICENCE. Your South African licence is valid in Namibia – keep it at hand. VEHICLE REGISTRATION DOCUMENTS. Bring the original or certified copies of these documents. Remember the papers for the trailer or caravan. LETTER OF AUTHORISATION. If you’re still paying off your car, you need a letter of authorisation from the bank. If the car you’re travelling in doesn’t belong to you, you need a letter written by the owner giving you permission to…

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

PARK FEES For years, there has been talk of a substantial increase to national park entry fees. The new fees were announced by the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism in April 2021: The daily park fee for SADC residents is R100 per adult and R50 per child under 16, plus R50 per vehicle. This is for |Ai-|Ais, Etosha, Namib-Naukluft, Dorob, the Waterberg Plateau, Skeleton Coast, Sperrgebiet and Cape Cross. Entrance to the other parks: R70 per adult and R30 per child, plus R50 per vehicle (or more, depending on vehicle size). Remember to budget for park fees if you plan to stay over in a national park. GET DISCOUNTS WITH THESE CARDS NamLeisure. With a NamLeisure Card in your wallet, you get 25% discount on all formal accommodation (camping excluded), meals and activities…

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

BEHIND THE SCENES

Steve Braine, bird guide and owner of The Naturalist Collection, shares his knowledge of Namibia’s best birding spots (p 34). Why birding? It was in the genes. My grandfather, Herbert Hambly Parker, bred birds and had huge aviaries. He wrote the first book on aviculture in South Africa. My father Jack was a keen birder, and he collected succulents and other plants. I grew up in a small town called Kombat between Otavi and Grootfontein in a naturalist family – there were always loads of interesting things in our house. Tell us about your background. I studied conservation and worked for the Ministry of Environment and Tourism for 11 years; eight years at Möwe Bay in the Skeleton Coast National Park and three years in the Zambezi Region, based in…

BEHIND THE SCENES

When it rains in Namibia

When my husband Cecil was still alive, we often stayed at Bushman’s Desert Camp near Solitaire (#81, p 93). The photo on the left was taken in 2020. At that stage, there hadn’t been good rain for nearly a decade. Boesman Davids, the owner of Desert Camp, wasn’t very lucky where rain was concerned. It would sometimes rain right around his border fences, with only a few drops hitting his soil. But at the end of January 2022, his luck finally turned. The heavens opened! I took the above photo in March. It’s hard to believe it’s the same place. There’s a dry riverbed about 100 m from Boesman and his wife Yuri’s house. For 18 years, they hadn’t seen any water come down, but this year the river has been in spate…

When it rains in Namibia

Don’t miss out!

1 Kalahari Desert With the high red dunes of the Namib beckoning in the west, it’s easy to forget about the more modest Kalahari in the east. But spend some time on a farm around the towns of Koës, Aroab, Gochas and Aranos and you’ll soon realise that Namibia’s Kalahari is everything but dull and boring. Farm holidays differ from reserve holidays. When you stay on a farm, you can wander in the veld without worrying about dangerous animals, and you get to kuier with the people who make the Kalahari so great. The hospitality of the farmers is legendary – they’ll show you the best dune to watch a sunset, and the jeep track that will lead you to the most beautiful camel thorn tree. Sometimes you’ll even be invited to…

Don’t miss out!

COMPULSORY STUFF PASSPORT. It needs to be valid for six months or more from the date you plan to leave Namibia, and it should have at least two blank pages. BIRTH CERTIFICATES. All children under 18 need an unabridged birth certificate to cross the border unless they have a new passport with their parents’ names listed in the back. DRIVING LICENCE. Your South African licence is valid in Namibia – keep it at hand. VEHICLE REGISTRATION DOCUMENTS. Bring the original or certified copies of these documents. Remember the papers for the trailer or caravan. LETTER OF AUTHORISATION. If you’re still paying off your car, you need a letter of authorisation from the bank. If the car you’re travelling in doesn’t belong to you, you need a letter written by the…

Clear skies ahead

From 300 m above ground, you can see how much rain has fallen in the Hartmann Valley in the Kaokoveld. Normally, this huge expanse is dry and dull, but now there are green patches everywhere where grass has erupted from the dust. It’s a rare and beautiful sight. But first officer Ashley Prinsloo is not looking at the view – she’s focused on a mountain in the distance. “Terrain! Terrain!” a tinny voice sounds from the instrument panel of the Cessna 425. The aircraft has also noticed the approaching wall of rock and its GPS doesn’t know about the landing strip behind the mountain… “Terrain! Terrain!” it croaks again, as if trying to say, “Open your eyes!” But Ashley can see the gravel landing strip on the other side – a faint flat…

Clear skies ahead

1 Walvis Bay & Swakopmund WALVIS BAY The lagoon, wetland and saltworks are all a Ramsar site – an internationally recognised protected wetland important for migratory birds and local species. The best time to visit is during summer when the migrants are around. Many specials can be found here, like Wilson’s and red-necked phalaropes; Terek sandpipers; Eurasian oystercatchers; Franklin’s and black-headed gulls; and occasionally Pacific and American golden plovers. The largest number of breeding chestnut-banded plovers in the world can be seen here during summer. The Namibian coastline hosts 90% of the world’s breeding population of the endangered Damara tern. Effort has been put into restricting public movement in their important breeding areas. KUISEB RIVER & DELTA The dune lark is Namibia’s only endemic bird, and the dune field opposite the Rooibank waterworks is one…

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

PARK FEES For years, there has been talk of a substantial increase to national park entry fees. The new fees were announced by the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism in April 2021: The daily park fee for SADC residents is R100 per adult and R50 per child under 16, plus R50 per vehicle. This is for |Ai-|Ais, Etosha, Namib-Naukluft, Dorob, the Waterberg Plateau, Skeleton Coast, Sperrgebiet and Cape Cross. Entrance to the other parks: R70 per adult and R30 per child, plus R50 per vehicle (or more, depending on vehicle size). Remember to budget for park fees if you plan to stay over in a national park. GET DISCOUNTS WITH THESE CARDS NamLeisure. With a NamLeisure Card in your wallet, you get 25% discount on all formal accommodation (camping…

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

1 Look for wild horses See the famous wild horses of the Namib at the Garub waterhole, next to the B4 about 20 km west of Aus. 2 Visit the Bogenfels rock arch This spectacular rock arch is in the Sperrgebiet, a restricted area, and you can only get there on an official tour from Lüderitz. Bogenfels is the main attraction, but there are many other surprises in the Sperrgebiet, including the deserted mining town of Pomona, and Fairytale Valley, named after a field of diamonds that once lay glinting in the sun. A 4x4 tour costs R3 750 per person (minimum three people) and it includes drinks and snacks. You have to supply a copy of your ID (if you’re Namibian) or passport (if you’re a visitor) to gain entry to the Sperrgebiet…

When it rains in Namibia

When my husband Cecil was still alive, we often stayed at Bushman’s Desert Camp near Solitaire (#81, p 93). The photo on the left was taken in 2020. At that stage, there hadn’t been good rain for nearly a decade. Boesman Davids, the owner of Desert Camp, wasn’t very lucky where rain was concerned. It would sometimes rain right around his border fences, with only a few drops hitting his soil. But at the end of January 2022, his luck finally turned. The heavens opened! I took the above photo in March. It’s hard to believe it’s the same place. There’s a dry riverbed about 100 m from Boesman and his wife Yuri’s house. For 18 years, they hadn’t seen any water come down, but this year the river has…

When it rains in Namibia

6 KM FROM VIOOLSDRIF New kid on the block Kwelanga River Lodge The lodge has only been open for about two years, so the shade trees still need to grow a bit, but the facilities are excellent. Cathy and Adrian Struwig are at the helm. We chat at the bar counter next to the swimming pool. It’s New Year’s Day and the atmosphere is festive. Members of the local police force and their families are spending the day here. Children splash in the shallow end while students on holiday play volleyball in the deep end. “We’ve been camping our entire lives and wanted to give visitors enough privacy and space. They shouldn’t feel crammed in,” says Cathy, pointing to the five private stands between the swimming pool and the river. The Struwigs are in their 60s…

Don’t miss out!

1 Kalahari Desert With the high red dunes of the Namib beckoning in the west, it’s easy to forget about the more modest Kalahari in the east. But spend some time on a farm around the towns of Koës, Aroab, Gochas and Aranos and you’ll soon realise that Namibia’s Kalahari is everything but dull and boring. Farm holidays differ from reserve holidays. When you stay on a farm, you can wander in the veld without worrying about dangerous animals, and you get to kuier with the people who make the Kalahari so great. The hospitality of the farmers is legendary – they’ll show you the best dune to watch a sunset, and the jeep track that will lead you to the most beautiful camel thorn tree. Sometimes you’ll even be…

Don’t miss out!

MORE PLACES TO STAY

SOUTH AFRICA 10 KM FROM VIOOLSDRIF Orange River Rafting Lodge A great setting next to the river. It’s a popular spot and was fully booked during our visit in December 2021. There were some management issues – the swimming pool was green, the restaurant was under-stocked and the communal bathrooms ran out of water. We also got tiny stands (#11 and 12) in the corner of the campsite, next to a scrapyard. These stands – and #10 – are fine in an emergency, but not if you plan to spend a few days. Camping R450 per night for two people, plus R75 per extra person (braai facilities, sink and communal ablutions). Self-catering units from R1 100 per night for two people. The resort has been under new management since January 2022. 027 761 8777; orangeriverraftinglodge.co.za 13 KM…

MORE PLACES TO STAY

Shutterbugs down south

Namibia has no shortage of apex destinations, but it’s a big country and we wanted to spend more time taking photos and less time travelling. We decided to stick to the south – starting at the Fish River Canyon and visiting other classic spots like the Quiver Tree Forest outside Keetmanshoop, Sossusvlei, NamibRand and Lüderitz. After filling our memory cards with shots of the stupendous canyon, we set off for Quivertree Forest Rest Camp the next morning, travelling via Grünau, a small town off the B1. We were in no rush and couldn’t resist breakfast at the Grünau Hotel. Coffee, freshly baked scones and spicy sausage took the edge off our hunger. The road to the rest camp was quiet save for legions of corn crickets on the march, and they timed…

Shutterbugs down south

Clear skies ahead

From 300 m above ground, you can see how much rain has fallen in the Hartmann Valley in the Kaokoveld. Normally, this huge expanse is dry and dull, but now there are green patches everywhere where grass has erupted from the dust. It’s a rare and beautiful sight. But first officer Ashley Prinsloo is not looking at the view – she’s focused on a mountain in the distance. “Terrain! Terrain!” a tinny voice sounds from the instrument panel of the Cessna 425. The aircraft has also noticed the approaching wall of rock and its GPS doesn’t know about the landing strip behind the mountain… “Terrain! Terrain!” it croaks again, as if trying to say, “Open your eyes!” But Ashley can see the gravel landing strip on the other side –…

Clear skies ahead

SOUTH PLACES TO STAY

AFFORDABLE OPTION (See page 16.) HELMERINGHAUSEN & TIRASBERG 1 Namtib Biosphere Reserve This reserve is next to the D707, which is billed as the most scenic road in Namibia. The campsite – Little Hunter’s Rest – is 3 km from the main lodge. You have a view of the Tirasberg and the red dunes of the Namib Desert to the west. Camping R200 p.p. (braai, solar-heated showers, communal wind shelter, no power). Lodge rooms from R1 620 p.p. sharing DB&B. Guests must book in advance. You can hike a variety of marked trails, or climb one of the koppies (free). GPS: S26.03714 E16.26170 00 264 63 683 055 namtib.net 2 Ranch Koiimasis Only accessible from the D707. Activities range from hiking to guided horse rides. Camping R250 p.p. (five private stands, each with a braai and clean drinking water;…

SOUTH PLACES TO STAY

1 Walvis Bay & Swakopmund WALVIS BAY The lagoon, wetland and saltworks are all a Ramsar site – an internationally recognised protected wetland important for migratory birds and local species. The best time to visit is during summer when the migrants are around. Many specials can be found here, like Wilson’s and red-necked phalaropes; Terek sandpipers; Eurasian oystercatchers; Franklin’s and black-headed gulls; and occasionally Pacific and American golden plovers. The largest number of breeding chestnut-banded plovers in the world can be seen here during summer. The Namibian coastline hosts 90% of the world’s breeding population of the endangered Damara tern. Effort has been put into restricting public movement in their important breeding areas. KUISEB RIVER & DELTA The dune lark is Namibia’s only endemic bird, and the dune field opposite…

1 See dolphins in Walvis Bay On a morning boat trip in the bay – sparkling wine and oysters included – you’ll see a lighthouse and the seal colony at Pelican Point. You might also spot dolphins and even a whale if you’re lucky, or a pelican begging for scraps… Laramon Tours ( laramontours.com) offers a Dolphin Cruise, and Catamaran Charters ( namibiancharters.com) offers a Dolphin & Seal Cruise – both cost R990 per adult and R550 per child under 12. Mola Mola ( mola-namibia.com) has a tour called the Marine Dolphin Cruise, which costs R1 045 per adult and R650 per child aged 4 – 12. 2 Visit Sossusvlei and Dead Vlei If you want to take photos early in the morning or late in the afternoon, stay at Sesriem or Oshana campsites. They’re inside the Namib-Naukluft National…

Dunes by the dozen

Near Betta, on our way to Sossusvlei, the sky is blue, blue, blue. There’s not a cloud in sight… because the wind blew them all away! We sail into At Kronenhof Lodge. The wind is so awful that I pull out my credit card and upgrade us from a camping stand to a self-catering unit. The manager of the lodge, Karin Venter, shows me a video of her sister’s house in Swakopmund, where the wind has been blowing just as fiercely. It blew sand in under the front door and spread it everywhere: on the kitchen counter, on top of the medicine bottles, everywhere! It’s the famous east wind, the so-called oosweer. We’re on our way to Sossusvlei and according to the weather forecast, we have another seven days of sand and…

Dunes by the dozen

A safe harbour in the desert

Damara and Nama people have lived in the Swakop River Valley sporadically since at least the early 1600s, and the Herero chief Tjiponda spent some time at nearby Nonidas early in the 19th century. But it wasn’t until the latter part of that century that a permanent settlement was established. Namibia became a German colony in 1884, and the new colony was in dire need of a harbour, since Walvis Bay was already under British rule. A commissioner called Curt von François was tasked with finding an appropriate location. On 4 August 1892, two beacons were erected where Swakopmund’s beach is now. The Germans were adamant that this was the perfect location for their new project, but the Atlantic Ocean and history had other plans… Firstly, there was no safe landing for…

A safe harbour in the desert

1 Look for wild horses See the famous wild horses of the Namib at the Garub waterhole, next to the B4 about 20 km west of Aus. 2 Visit the Bogenfels rock arch This spectacular rock arch is in the Sperrgebiet, a restricted area, and you can only get there on an official tour from Lüderitz. Bogenfels is the main attraction, but there are many other surprises in the Sperrgebiet, including the deserted mining town of Pomona, and Fairytale Valley, named after a field of diamonds that once lay glinting in the sun. A 4x4 tour costs R3 750 per person (minimum three people) and it includes drinks and snacks. You have to supply a copy of your ID (if you’re Namibian) or passport (if you’re a visitor) to gain…

6 KM FROM VIOOLSDRIF New kid on the block Kwelanga River Lodge The lodge has only been open for about two years, so the shade trees still need to grow a bit, but the facilities are excellent. Cathy and Adrian Struwig are at the helm. We chat at the bar counter next to the swimming pool. It’s New Year’s Day and the atmosphere is festive. Members of the local police force and their families are spending the day here. Children splash in the shallow end while students on holiday play volleyball in the deep end. “We’ve been camping our entire lives and wanted to give visitors enough privacy and space. They shouldn’t feel crammed in,” says Cathy, pointing to the five private stands between the swimming pool and the river.…

Discover the furthest reaches of Namibia

In Namibia, it often feels like you’re the first person to travel through a landscape, that you’ve been transported to another, wilder era. If exploring the distant parts of our neighbour has always been on your bucket list, then this Kunene Region Photography Tour is for you. Expert guides from Heuningland Tours will take a group of 16 people on a 4x4 self-drive, camping tour of the region. Toast Coetzer will act as your photography guide, offering advice and tips on how to improve your photography skills. You’re sure to take more than a few pics that will have everyone back home oohing and aahing. The tour kicks off at Spitzkoppe – home of the famous Rock Arch – and from there you’ll traverse the mostly dry riverbeds of Damaraland and the…

Discover the furthest reaches of Namibia

MORE PLACES TO STAY

SOUTH AFRICA 10 KM FROM VIOOLSDRIF Orange River Rafting Lodge A great setting next to the river. It’s a popular spot and was fully booked during our visit in December 2021. There were some management issues – the swimming pool was green, the restaurant was under-stocked and the communal bathrooms ran out of water. We also got tiny stands (#11 and 12) in the corner of the campsite, next to a scrapyard. These stands – and #10 – are fine in an emergency, but not if you plan to spend a few days. Camping R450 per night for two people, plus R75 per extra person (braai facilities, sink and communal ablutions). Self-catering units from R1 100 per night for two people. The resort has been under new management since January…

MORE PLACES TO STAY

PLACES TO STAY CENTRAL NAMIBIA

AFFORDABLE OPTION (See page 16.) HENTIES BAY & SKELETON COAST 1 St Nowhere Spa and Campsite This popular fishing spot is 110 km north of Henties Bay. Camping from R525 p.n. for five people and R105 per extra person p.n. A stand close to the sea with a private bathroom from R600 for five people. Self-catering bungalow from R990 p.n. for up to four people; R248 per extra person – the units sleep 5 – 9 people. Groups of up to 13 people can book the big house – from R1 980 p.n. for eight people; R248 per extra person. Rates exclude 2% tourism levy and bedding (R40 p.p.). The kiosk sells basics and there’s a small restaurant open during the summer holidays. 00 264 81 124 0879 00 264 81 252 9422 bookings@stnowhere.com 2 Mile 108…

PLACES TO STAY CENTRAL NAMIBIA

At Kronenhof Lodge, Betta

Although there’s a lot to keep you busy at the new At Kronenhof Lodge, it’s hard to tear yourself away from the view. Especially late in the afternoon when the sun sets behind the Rooirand Mountains… According to legend, when the first German owner had the property surveyed all those years ago, the land surveyor asked him if the place had a name. They studied the landscape and saw a mountain that looked like a crown (“kroon”). “Hof”is a German word for house. As you approach the lodge, look out for this eponymous peak on your right. Does du Preez is the owner of At Kronenhof, and his daughter Karin runs the lodge with her husband Tjaard Venter. “Does likes to travel and he knows what people want, especially campers,”says Tjaard. “He loves…

At Kronenhof Lodge, Betta

Shutterbugs down south

Namibia has no shortage of apex destinations, but it’s a big country and we wanted to spend more time taking photos and less time travelling. We decided to stick to the south – starting at the Fish River Canyon and visiting other classic spots like the Quiver Tree Forest outside Keetmanshoop, Sossusvlei, NamibRand and Lüderitz. After filling our memory cards with shots of the stupendous canyon, we set off for Quivertree Forest Rest Camp the next morning, travelling via Grünau, a small town off the B1. We were in no rush and couldn’t resist breakfast at the Grünau Hotel. Coffee, freshly baked scones and spicy sausage took the edge off our hunger. The road to the rest camp was quiet save for legions of corn crickets on the march, and…

Shutterbugs down south

10 things to do

1 Admire the view of the Ugab Terrace The Ugab Terrace is a landscape of buttes and mesas that rise from the plains between the C39 and the D2743. For the best view, sit on the deck at Ugab Terrace Lodge or walk to the Vingerklip rock formation from Vingerklip Lodge. 2 Go game viewing in Etosha Book at least five nights in this popular park: Two nights at Okaukuejo, so you can go to the Ombika, Olifantsbad and Nebrownii waterholes; two nights at Halali so you can drive to the pan and see vultures at Sueda waterhole; and one night at Namutoni, which is quieter. You can also explore the remote western part, with a stay at camping-only Olifantsrus. Day visitors pay R100 per person, plus R50 per vehicle. 3 Do a sunset…

10 things to do

SOUTH PLACES TO STAY

AFFORDABLE OPTION (See page 16.) HELMERINGHAUSEN & TIRASBERG 1 Namtib Biosphere Reserve This reserve is next to the D707, which is billed as the most scenic road in Namibia. The campsite – Little Hunter’s Rest – is 3 km from the main lodge. You have a view of the Tirasberg and the red dunes of the Namib Desert to the west. Camping R200 p.p. (braai, solar-heated showers, communal wind shelter, no power). Lodge rooms from R1 620 p.p. sharing DB&B. Guests must book in advance. You can hike a variety of marked trails, or climb one of the koppies (free). GPS: S26.03714 E16.26170 00 264 63 683 055 namtib.net 2 Ranch Koiimasis Only accessible from the D707. Activities range from hiking to guided horse rides. Camping R250 p.p. (five private…

SOUTH PLACES TO STAY

From the Orange to the Okavango and back

The sun has long set over the Kwando River in Bwabwata National Park, but Eustace Libulelo doesn’t steer the Land Cruiser back to the lodge. He turns in the opposite direction and we follow a different track, into a woodland. Our afternoon game drive has become a night drive. The kids notice the detour and grin. Eustace promised them a leopard and he’s not a man to break a promise. It’s high summer in Bwabwata and there’s wonder around every bend: a new view of the Kwando, glistening like a python beneath towering thunderclouds; hippo ears in a pool; strangler figs and jackal-berry trees; colourful birds from mysterious places like the Congo; and ruins from wars fought long ago where lechwe now graze. Even the heat feels alive: the air vibrating…

From the Orange to the Okavango and back

North, west, Namibia is best!

Namibia is something to behold from the air: the deep gash of the Fish River Canyon like a huge scar in the desert, the red dunes of Sossusvlei rolling into the dark blue Atlantic Ocean… Further north, beyond the Messum Crater and over the folds of the Ugab River, the geographical wonders of the country really show off. Everywhere you look, there are towering mountains and layered rock, interspersed with cliffs and dry riverbeds. Rainer and I spent our younger days landing on faraway runways in these arid parts of Damaraland and the Kaokoveld. To an inexperienced eye, the runways were often nearly impossible to see. Some were nothing more than twin-spoor jeep tracks, with cattle in the way and no windsock. We flew as far north as Catumbela in Angola,…

North, west, Namibia is best!

1 See dolphins in Walvis Bay On a morning boat trip in the bay – sparkling wine and oysters included – you’ll see a lighthouse and the seal colony at Pelican Point. You might also spot dolphins and even a whale if you’re lucky, or a pelican begging for scraps… Laramon Tours ( laramontours.com) offers a Dolphin Cruise, and Catamaran Charters ( namibiancharters.com) offers a Dolphin & Seal Cruise – both cost R990 per adult and R550 per child under 12. Mola Mola ( mola-namibia.com) has a tour called the Marine Dolphin Cruise, which costs R1 045 per adult and R650 per child aged 4 – 12. 2 Visit Sossusvlei and Dead Vlei If you want to take photos early in the morning or late in the afternoon, stay at…

What’s up in the Waterberg?

The cold morning air burns my lungs as I follow the path up the mountain. Every now and then I look over my shoulder towards the brightening horizon. I should have woken up earlier, because now I have to race the sun. The birds in the trees around me sing their morning melodies. Yesterday afternoon, I pitched my tent in the campsite at the base of the mountain in Waterberg Plateau National Park. The Waterberg has been on my radar for years and I didn’t want to miss a chance to experience the landscape at sunrise. Finally, I arrive at the top. I sit on a rock near the edge and look east to where the clouds have turned pink. Everything around the mountain is as flat as a cricket pitch in…

What’s up in the Waterberg?

Grab your camera, the desert is calling!

Weg! JOIN US ON TOUR IN 2023! If you’ve recently completed the go! Take Better Photos online course, if you’ve just bought your first “real” camera, of if you simply want to improve your landscape, wildlife and travel photography, this is the tour for you! This tour is part workshop, part guided road trip. You’ll have more than enough time to take photos at iconic spots in the south of Namibia, while Evan Naudé, a regular contributor to this magazine, will be on hand to share tips and answer questions. ITINERARY DAY 1 The group meets at the Canyon Roadhouse near the Fish River Canyon. DAY 2 & 3 After an early morning visit to the canyon, we head to Lüderitz. En route, we visit the railway town of Aus, look for the wild horses…

Grab your camera, the desert is calling!

Dunes by the dozen

Near Betta, on our way to Sossusvlei, the sky is blue, blue, blue. There’s not a cloud in sight… because the wind blew them all away! We sail into At Kronenhof Lodge. The wind is so awful that I pull out my credit card and upgrade us from a camping stand to a self-catering unit. The manager of the lodge, Karin Venter, shows me a video of her sister’s house in Swakopmund, where the wind has been blowing just as fiercely. It blew sand in under the front door and spread it everywhere: on the kitchen counter, on top of the medicine bottles, everywhere! It’s the famous east wind, the so-called oosweer. We’re on our way to Sossusvlei and according to the weather forecast, we have another seven days of…

Dunes by the dozen

NORTH PLACES TO STAY

AFFORDABLE OPTION (See page 16.) LOW SEASON Many of these lodges lower their prices significantly at the height of summer (January to March, sometimes April). It gets very hot, and it can rain, but you’ll save a lot of money if you visit during these months. COMMUNITY CAMPS There are many community-run campsites in Damaraland and the Kaokoveld. It’s pointless to try and phone to book and usually not necessary either. Just drive in, someone will come to assist you. KAOKOVELD & KUNENE RIVER 1 Epupa Falls Lodge On the banks of the Kunene River, 200 km north of Opuwo. Situated right on top of Epupa Falls, the lodge has a restaurant, bar, deck and swimming pool. Camping from R150 p.p. (max six people per stand; there are seven stands), plus R100 per trailer or caravan. There…

NORTH PLACES TO STAY

A safe harbour in the desert

Damara and Nama people have lived in the Swakop River Valley sporadically since at least the early 1600s, and the Herero chief Tjiponda spent some time at nearby Nonidas early in the 19th century. But it wasn’t until the latter part of that century that a permanent settlement was established. Namibia became a German colony in 1884, and the new colony was in dire need of a harbour, since Walvis Bay was already under British rule. A commissioner called Curt von François was tasked with finding an appropriate location. On 4 August 1892, two beacons were erected where Swakopmund’s beach is now. The Germans were adamant that this was the perfect location for their new project, but the Atlantic Ocean and history had other plans… Firstly, there was no safe…

A safe harbour in the desert

Discover the furthest reaches of Namibia

In Namibia, it often feels like you’re the first person to travel through a landscape, that you’ve been transported to another, wilder era. If exploring the distant parts of our neighbour has always been on your bucket list, then this Kunene Region Photography Tour is for you. Expert guides from Heuningland Tours will take a group of 16 people on a 4x4 self-drive, camping tour of the region. Toast Coetzer will act as your photography guide, offering advice and tips on how to improve your photography skills. You’re sure to take more than a few pics that will have everyone back home oohing and aahing. The tour kicks off at Spitzkoppe – home of the famous Rock Arch – and from there you’ll traverse the mostly dry riverbeds of Damaraland…

Discover the furthest reaches of Namibia

NAMIBIA AT ITS BEST

Naute Dam is south of Seeheim. As you drive past on the D545, you see it near the dam wall: a painted globe resting on the sun-baked plains. The ball was once a purely practical hunk of concrete, used to plug the dam. However, artist Catharina Scheepers volunteered to change it. Balanced on a ladder in the hot sun, she breathed life into a new landmark. To raise awareness for water conservation, NamWater Keetmanshoop gave her the permission, paint and materials, and many residents lent a hand with the painting and sandpapering. If you were to combine all the earth’s potable fresh water into one drop, to scale, the drop would be the size of a marble next to the globe. Catharina hopes to add this important message one day.…

NAMIBIA AT ITS BEST

PLACES TO STAY CENTRAL NAMIBIA

AFFORDABLE OPTION (See page 16.) HENTIES BAY & SKELETON COAST 1 St Nowhere Spa and Campsite This popular fishing spot is 110 km north of Henties Bay. Camping from R525 p.n. for five people and R105 per extra person p.n. A stand close to the sea with a private bathroom from R600 for five people. Self-catering bungalow from R990 p.n. for up to four people; R248 per extra person – the units sleep 5 – 9 people. Groups of up to 13 people can book the big house – from R1 980 p.n. for eight people; R248 per extra person. Rates exclude 2% tourism levy and bedding (R40 p.p.). The kiosk sells basics and there’s a small restaurant open during the summer holidays. 00 264 81 124 0879 00 264…

PLACES TO STAY CENTRAL NAMIBIA

At Kronenhof Lodge, Betta

Although there’s a lot to keep you busy at the new At Kronenhof Lodge, it’s hard to tear yourself away from the view. Especially late in the afternoon when the sun sets behind the Rooirand Mountains… According to legend, when the first German owner had the property surveyed all those years ago, the land surveyor asked him if the place had a name. They studied the landscape and saw a mountain that looked like a crown (“kroon”). “Hof”is a German word for house. As you approach the lodge, look out for this eponymous peak on your right. Does du Preez is the owner of At Kronenhof, and his daughter Karin runs the lodge with her husband Tjaard Venter. “Does likes to travel and he knows what people want, especially campers,”says…

At Kronenhof Lodge, Betta

10 things to do

1 Admire the view of the Ugab Terrace The Ugab Terrace is a landscape of buttes and mesas that rise from the plains between the C39 and the D2743. For the best view, sit on the deck at Ugab Terrace Lodge or walk to the Vingerklip rock formation from Vingerklip Lodge. 2 Go game viewing in Etosha Book at least five nights in this popular park: Two nights at Okaukuejo, so you can go to the Ombika, Olifantsbad and Nebrownii waterholes; two nights at Halali so you can drive to the pan and see vultures at Sueda waterhole; and one night at Namutoni, which is quieter. You can also explore the remote western part, with a stay at camping-only Olifantsrus. Day visitors pay R100 per person, plus R50 per vehicle.…

10 things to do

From the Orange to the Okavango and back

The sun has long set over the Kwando River in Bwabwata National Park, but Eustace Libulelo doesn’t steer the Land Cruiser back to the lodge. He turns in the opposite direction and we follow a different track, into a woodland. Our afternoon game drive has become a night drive. The kids notice the detour and grin. Eustace promised them a leopard and he’s not a man to break a promise. It’s high summer in Bwabwata and there’s wonder around every bend: a new view of the Kwando, glistening like a python beneath towering thunderclouds; hippo ears in a pool; strangler figs and jackal-berry trees; colourful birds from mysterious places like the Congo; and ruins from wars fought long ago where lechwe now graze. Even the heat feels alive: the air…

From the Orange to the Okavango and back

North, west, Namibia is best!

Namibia is something to behold from the air: the deep gash of the Fish River Canyon like a huge scar in the desert, the red dunes of Sossusvlei rolling into the dark blue Atlantic Ocean… Further north, beyond the Messum Crater and over the folds of the Ugab River, the geographical wonders of the country really show off. Everywhere you look, there are towering mountains and layered rock, interspersed with cliffs and dry riverbeds. Rainer and I spent our younger days landing on faraway runways in these arid parts of Damaraland and the Kaokoveld. To an inexperienced eye, the runways were often nearly impossible to see. Some were nothing more than twin-spoor jeep tracks, with cattle in the way and no windsock. We flew as far north as Catumbela in…

North, west, Namibia is best!

What’s up in the Waterberg?

The cold morning air burns my lungs as I follow the path up the mountain. Every now and then I look over my shoulder towards the brightening horizon. I should have woken up earlier, because now I have to race the sun. The birds in the trees around me sing their morning melodies. Yesterday afternoon, I pitched my tent in the campsite at the base of the mountain in Waterberg Plateau National Park. The Waterberg has been on my radar for years and I didn’t want to miss a chance to experience the landscape at sunrise. Finally, I arrive at the top. I sit on a rock near the edge and look east to where the clouds have turned pink. Everything around the mountain is as flat as a cricket…

What’s up in the Waterberg?

Grab your camera, the desert is calling!

Weg! JOIN US ON TOUR IN 2023! If you’ve recently completed the go! Take Better Photos online course, if you’ve just bought your first “real” camera, of if you simply want to improve your landscape, wildlife and travel photography, this is the tour for you! This tour is part workshop, part guided road trip. You’ll have more than enough time to take photos at iconic spots in the south of Namibia, while Evan Naudé, a regular contributor to this magazine, will be on hand to share tips and answer questions. ITINERARY DAY 1 The group meets at the Canyon Roadhouse near the Fish River Canyon. DAY 2 & 3 After an early morning visit to the canyon, we head to Lüderitz. En route, we visit the railway town of Aus,…

Grab your camera, the desert is calling!

NORTH PLACES TO STAY

AFFORDABLE OPTION (See page 16.) LOW SEASON Many of these lodges lower their prices significantly at the height of summer (January to March, sometimes April). It gets very hot, and it can rain, but you’ll save a lot of money if you visit during these months. COMMUNITY CAMPS There are many community-run campsites in Damaraland and the Kaokoveld. It’s pointless to try and phone to book and usually not necessary either. Just drive in, someone will come to assist you. KAOKOVELD & KUNENE RIVER 1 Epupa Falls Lodge On the banks of the Kunene River, 200 km north of Opuwo. Situated right on top of Epupa Falls, the lodge has a restaurant, bar, deck and swimming pool. Camping from R150 p.p. (max six people per stand; there are seven stands),…

NORTH PLACES TO STAY

NAMIBIA AT ITS BEST

Naute Dam is south of Seeheim. As you drive past on the D545, you see it near the dam wall: a painted globe resting on the sun-baked plains. The ball was once a purely practical hunk of concrete, used to plug the dam. However, artist Catharina Scheepers volunteered to change it. Balanced on a ladder in the hot sun, she breathed life into a new landmark. To raise awareness for water conservation, NamWater Keetmanshoop gave her the permission, paint and materials, and many residents lent a hand with the painting and sandpapering. If you were to combine all the earth’s potable fresh water into one drop, to scale, the drop would be the size of a marble next to the globe. Catharina hopes to add this important message one day.…

NAMIBIA AT ITS BEST

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