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56 Articles

WELCOME to Explore History

When it comes to mythology and legend in British history, it is surely King Arthur who reigns supreme. Whether it’s the tale of the Holy Grail, the evocative camaraderie of the Round Table or the question of where he is buried, Arthurian legend is captivating. We consider his role at the site of Britain’s earliest known monks on page 20. We look to Russia’s relationship with its own history, in search of the truth about Perm’s Gulag museum, Perm-36 on page 28, then go beyond to the historic Opera House of Mumbai to see the results of its restoration on page 42, and dive into the buccaneering stories of the Caribbean’s infamous pirates (page 36). Unfortunately, this will be the last issue of Explore History, so the team and I…

WELCOME to Explore History

Osaka Castle, Japan Osaka’s enduring symbol was built in the 16th century, on the site of a former temple. It was commissioned by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, and his design was completed in 1597. Upon Toyotomi’s death, the castle passed to his son, Hideyori Toyotomi, and in 1600, Tokugawa Ieyasu, a rival shogun, filled the moat of the castle, negating one of its primary defences, though it was later restored. Reculver Towers, Kent, England What remains of the 12th- century monastic church at Reculver, Kent, has long been a coastal landmark. The site was originally settled by the Romans, though much of their history is uncertain due to coastal erosion. In the 7th century, an Anglo - Saxon monastery took over, making use of the existing battlements. By the 10th c entury,…

UNCOVERED: Lost city discovered in Welsh field of dreams

An archaeology graduate who spent his life savings buying a Monmouthshire field because he thought that there may be Medieval remains under the surface is hoping that he can turn it into a tourist attraction. Stuart Wilson bought the land for £32,000 in 2004 and has spent more than a decade excavating the Medieval city. Now he is applying for planning permission for a camp site and interpretation centre to tell visitors about the lost city of Trellech, and is hoping for it to be open by the summer of 2018. Wilson’s interest in the site was originally sparked in 2002 when a local farmer told the Monmouth Archaeological Society about pottery that had been found in molehills on his land. Two years later, when a nearby field came up…

UNCOVERED: Lost city discovered in Welsh field of dreams

Controversial Stonehenge tunnel given go-ahead

The issue of road noise at Stonehenge has been a contentious one for many years. The A303, a main road across the south west of England, passes by (with many a nose pressed up against the glass, in the thousands of cars that traverse it daily) and the noise can be heard when visiting the historic site. One suggested solution to this issue that has drawn various critics and supporters on either side, is for a tunnel to re-direct the traffic underground. A logical solution, perhaps – but one that has drawn questions about the impact on future archaeology at the site. The plans are part of a £2 billion investment drive in the roads of south-west England, intended to ease some of the difficulties caused by overuse of the…

Controversial Stonehenge tunnel given go-ahead

EXPLORER’S KNAPSACK

A Short History Of Gardens by Gordon Campbell ‘Garden’ may seem like an incredibly broad concept to cover in a ‘short’ history, but Campbell has traced the trend for formalised outdoor spaces from ancient beginnings in Egypt to the present-day. £12.99/$16.95 Spitalfields by Dan Cruickshank Cruickshank has lived in Spitalfields in London for 40 years, and so has seen first hand the evolution of the area through the last century and beyond. In this book, he covers the history of the area and its people, from Roman times through until today. Price: £25/$30 Gerber and Bear Grylls Pocket Compass When out exploring, knowing south from north is a pretty basic need. This lightweight, compact, sleek compass is a perfect gadget to keep on you at all…

EXPLORER’S KNAPSACK

A closer look at history

A number of television historians are hoping to revolutionise the way members of the public engage with history through a new programme of workshops. The brainchild of Suzannah Lipscomb, best known for her Hidden Killers Of The Home programmes, and Sam Willis, a familiar face to viewers of Shipwrecks: Britain’s Sunken History, History Masterclass is described as a series of, “intimate, interactive opportunities to learn about history in an exquisite, historically-significant location.” Each workshop will be hosted by an expert in the field, most of whom will be familiar to anybody who watches history on television. Upcoming events include workshops with historians like Dan Jones, David Olusoga and Bettany Hughes, all of whom have featured on the box over previous months. However, the History Masterclass team is keen to stress…

A closer look at history

UP COMING MASTER CLASSES

The Witch Trials 11 February, New College of the Humanities Suzannah Lipscomb Lipscomb and her guests will explore why witches were persecuted during the 16th and 17th centuries, looking at the role of the Reformation, the importance of elite belief, neighbourhood accusations, the process of accusation, the significance of reputation, the classic ‘refusal-guilt’ syndrome and the relationship between gender and witchcraft. Illuminating the Dark Ages 1 March, New College of the Humanities Janina Ramirez Focusing on the intellectual life of the Anglo-Saxons, this Masterclass will reveal a vibrant, enigmatic world of texts, images, objects and individuals whose potency resonates down the centuries. From the Lindisfarne Gospels and to Bede and Beowulf, this is no ‘Dark Age’. The Crusades 21 March, The Army and Navy Club Peter Frankopan Drawing on written…

Colonial cannon unearthed A cannon dating from the 18th century has been found in Brunswick County, North Carolina, USA. It was found by a dredging company in the Cape Fear river, and seems to have burst, but does not have any distinctive marking. It will be kept in burlap and water until proper preservation can begin. Scottish Neolithic artefacts Installation of a pipeline between Saint Andrews and a nearby campus revealed a selection of exciting Neolithic tools and pottery. The tools were likely made from flint quarried in England, and may have been used for skinning hides and stripping bark from trees. Traces of Japanese fortress The last remains of the 17th century Sanadu Maru fortress have been found in the grounds of Osaka Castle in Honshu, Japan. It is…

Ghost of Banquo laid to rest in Scottish dig

A romantic legend linking a picturesque tree-lined avenue and a Shakespearean ghost has been dismissed once and for all by archaeologists. Instead, they have proven that the site had more humble origins when it was formed by 19th-century clay mining. For around 150 years, the eight-metre-wide avenue, which runs through woodland near Fort William, has been known as Banquo’s Walk. In Shakespeare’s Macbeth, Banquo – a semi-historical figure – is an ally of the titular king who is murdered after the witches’ prophecy suggests that Banquo’s descendents will take the throne. Legend asserts that Banquo once owned nearby Tor Castle, a ruined fort located close to the avenue. Banquo’s Walk was said to be a monumental roadway leading to the castle. In order to test the assumption that the avenue…

Ghost of Banquo laid to rest in Scottish dig

HEVER CASTLE Hever Castle was the last castle I visited, just before Christmas in fact, for the amazing festive evening that they do there every year. It is a completely magical place to visit. It was the childhood home of Anne Boleyn and is currently closed until 11 February 2017, but is well worth a visit when it does reopen. NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM The last museum I visited was the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich, London, to see its free Nelson exhibition, which was incredible. I am very far from being a naval historian myself, but I have to say I found it absolutely fascinating, particularly the more personal artefacts they had on display. VENICE I fell in love with Venice on my first visit about 15 years ago and…

DIGGING FOR TRUTH AT BRITAIN’S FIRST MONASTERY

“It’s a tale told by John of Glastonbury but like most stories associated with King Arthur, it is little more than fantasy” King Arthur sank to his knees before the altar. For three consecutive nights, while staying at the nearby monastery on Wearyall Hill, his sleep had been disturbed by a recurring dream telling him to visit Beckery Chapel. Now he had come. He was right to make the short journey to the small monastic church. While there, Arthur was the recipient of a powerful vision of the Virgin Mary holding the infant Jesus. So moved was he by the experience, that Arthur converted to Christianity and changed his banner from that of a dragon to one depicting the Virgin and Child. It’s a tale told by John of Glastonbury,…

DIGGING FOR TRUTH AT BRITAIN’S FIRST MONASTERY

The search for King Arthur

If King Arthur really existed (and it is a particularly big if) he was probably a military leader who fought the Saxon hordes in the 5th and 6th centuries. A chronicle written by Nennius, a Welsh cleric, is thought to be the foundation of the Arthur legend. His 9th-century work, History Of The Britons, describes Arthur as a military commander – not a king or even a royal – and lists 12 different battles in which Arthur fought, including the Battle of Badon where it is said that he killed 960 men. However, some believe that Nennius was recycling fictional deeds taken from ancient folklore, or that he even used some of the traditions associated with a Celtic god. Three centuries later, another Welsh writer pushed Arthur back into the…

The search for King Arthur

Excavated graves Four of the graves examined by archaeologists can be seen here. The burials were located in and around the chapel area. Outer walls The larger walls are part of the later chapel on the site. The skeletons The human remains found inside the graves at this excavation were mostly male, reinforcing the theory that this was a monastic site. Inner walls The smaller set of walls inside are from the earlier chapel.…

Beckery’s celebrated visitors

King Arthur Who was he? A leader who led resistance against Saxon invaders in the late 5th and early 6th centuries. Who says he went to Beckery? John of Glastonbury’s Chronicle Of Glastonbury Abbey, written around 1340, is the first recorded mention. What did he do? Arthur received a vision of the Virgin Mary with Jesus that contributed to him converting to Christianity. Later, shortly before his death, Arthur saw Excalibur cast into the waters around Beckery. What other evidence is there? Medieval pilgrims flocked to Glastonbury to view the graves of Arthur and Guinevere after they were discovered there in the late 12th century. Did Arthur really go to Beckery? Probably not. It was likely an elaborate hoax concocted by the monks of Glastonbury Abbey who needed money. Saint…

Beckery’s celebrated visitors

The grave trade

The pilgrim trade could earn Medieval abbeys and monasteries a heap of money, and the monks at Glastonbury were not above some creative marketing. The idea that King Arthur may have visited Beckery Chapel and was buried at Glastonbury Abbey is widely regarded as incorrect by most historians, the product of overactive imaginations in the Abbey who hoped to encourage more pilgrims to visit. Historians are right to be suspicious – it wasn’t the first time the Glastonbury monks claimed to have unearthed a famous body. Writing in around the year 1000, one Glastonbury monk, known only by the initial ‘B’, recorded that Saint Patrick “ended his life happily” at Glastonbury. William of Malmesbury took up the story more than a century later, adding that Patrick founded Glastonbury Abbey and…

The grave trade

EXPLORER’S ESSENTIALS

Essential information Beckery Chapel may be underground but there’s still plenty to see in and around Glastonbury, about one kilometre from Beckery. The town is 43 kilometres south of Bristol and is best reached by the M5 and A39 (from the west) or A303 and A37 (from the east, a route which includes a drive-by of Stonehenge). Glastonbury’s location and number of sites means that it would be difficult to cram everything into a day trip from London or further afield, but Bristol and Bath would also make good overnight bases. When to visit Go any time of year, but try to avoid the congestion caused by the music festival – from 21-25 June in 2017. Time zone UTC Currency GBP Where to stay Luxury Magdalene House This B&B has…

EXPLORER’S ESSENTIALS

STALIN RISING: Perm-36 Museum and rewriting history

In 2008, a Moscow television station ran an opinion poll. The aim was to find – and declare – the greatest Russian of all time. In 2002, the BBC had run a similar contest in the UK, with Winston Churchill coming out top dog. In Russia, Churchill’s wartime ally Josef Stalin, was, for a good majority of the campaign, the frontrunner. The producers were alarmed by this surprise showing, and then concerned at this unexpected leaning. In a bid to stop it, they pleaded with voters to pick somebody else. In all, 50 million Russians voted in the poll, and many of them claimed Stalin as their man. Although eventually pipped by Saint Alexander Nevsky (once the subject of a 1938 propaganda feature film – famous for its recreation of…

STALIN RISING: Perm-36 Museum and rewriting history

The Solovetsky archipelago in the White Sea region of Arctic Russia was deemed a perfect place to send what the Bolsheviks coined as ‘class enemies’ – later known as ‘wreckers’ – those who sought to undermine the revolution and sabotage, through political agitation, espionage or literature, the Soviet state. It wasn’t just Tsarists, clergy and aristocrats seen as undesirable to the state, but factions of rival socialists. Knowing he had to consolidate his grip on the country and wipe out dissent, Lenin summed up in a semi-joking quip to a comrade his intentions towards fellow revolutionaries: “It will be after we hanged the last Socialist-Revolutionary that the first Menshevik will get hanged.” In the wake of the Red Terror, instigated after a failed assassination attempt on Lenin’s life, rivals were…

Solovetsky archipelago The Solovetsky Islands corrective camps – particularly the monastery complex on Bolshoy Solovetsky – housed political prisoners from 1923 until 1939, when it was closed and became a naval base due to its proximity to Finland. The camp’s prisoners were involved in forestry and later the construction of the White Sea Canal, which under Stalin was ordered to be completed in 20 months. Prisoners used very primitive tools and sometimes dug with nothing but their hands. Today, Bolshoy Solovetsky is a UNESCO world heritage site. White Sea Canal The White Sea Canal project was one of Josef Stalin’s early obsessions. Overseen by SLON (Northern Camps of Special Significance), the canal stretched from Kem in the White Sea all the way to Saint Petersburg. Stalin ordered it built in…

The port town of Magadan sits on the Sea of Okhotsk in the extreme north east of Russia. Founded in 1930, it became a major administrative hub for mining industries under the purview of the corrective-labour camp system in the area. It is literally a town built for and by slaves of the state and the region ‘Kolyma’ crystallises the brutality and horrifying conditions endured by hundreds of thousands who were forced to work there. If you were sent to Kolyma to carry out your sentence, there was the distinct possibility of never returning. Prisoners had to endure a journey of up to three months just to get there. Temperatures in wintertime plunged to -45. It wasn’t unknown for prisoners’ food to freeze as they ate. The camps in these…

EXPLORER’S ESSENTIALS

Essential information Perm-36 is located 96 kilometres from Perm, near the village of Kuchino. A hire car, train or taxi can get you there. The museum offers a tour bus from Perm to Kuchino. Price of admission to the museum is 50 roubles. The city of Perm is on the very edge of European Russia and sits on the doorstep of Siberia. Getting there isn’t exactly easy, but the railway sits on the Moscow to Vladivostok route, world famous as the Trans-Siberian Railway. Perm is also served by Perm International Airport with connecting flights to Moscow, Saint Petersburg and Kazan. When to visit Spring and summer bring the most mild weather (April-August). The winter months bring lows of -16 degrees Celsius, so may be best avoided. Time zone UTC+5:00 Currency…

EXPLORER’S ESSENTIALS

PIRATES IN THE CARIBBEAN

“He pillaged 18 kilograms of gold dust, a great quantity of brandy, elephant teeth and 14 men to beef up his crew” Today when we think of the Caribbean, we might imagine endless golden beaches, turquoise seas and a relaxed pace of life. However, if you had set sail at the start of the 18th century and survived the long arduous journey across the Atlantic, you would not find solace and tranquillity, but instead an anarchic wilderness, overrun with pirates. Far from the eccentric, adventure-seeking rogues that pepper our cultural imagination, pirates were violent outlaws, ready to pillage anything they could get their hands on. They often sailed in ships called sloops, which enabled them to navigate much shallower waters. At one point, these outlaws even formed their own lawless…

PIRATES IN THE CARIBBEAN

Kidd’s treasure

The privateer is said to have acquired a vast treasure when he turned to piracy but by the time he was arrested, the infamous loot had vanished. During his incarceration, Kidd wrote to Sir Robert Harley, the Commons Speaker of the time, offering the location of his £100,000 loot (which is about £10.5 million in today’s money) if his sentence was commuted; unfortunately for him the offer was declined. The so called Kidd-Palmer charts, discovered by›Hubert Palmer in a bureau purportedly from Kidd’s ship The Adventure Galley – which was purchased in 1935 – allegedly pointed to the treasure being in the China Sea. The charts vanished in 1957, as has any evidence of a historical evaluation by the British Museum, who were long purported to have verified the charts…

Kidd’s treasure

Wreck of the Queen Anne’s Revenge

Blackbeard’s ship was discovered after cannons and other artefacts were salvaged from the coast of North Carolina in 1996. Originally a French slave vessel known as La Concorde, the ship is known to have made just three journeys. In 1717, having set sail from Nantes, near Brittany in France, and stopping off in Africa to pick up slaves, it was attacked by Blackbeard about 160 kilometres from Martinique. With some of the crew having already perished, and Blackbeard boasting two ships with a total of 150 men and 20 cannons, Captain Pierre Dossett did not stand a chance. He surrendered the ship to the pirate. After stopping on the island of Bequia, Blackbeard›renamed the ship, unloaded the slaves and some, but not all, of the crew. With the newly-named Queen…

Wreck of the Queen Anne’s Revenge

ENCORE FOR MUMBAI’S OPERA HOUSE

“Fewer still knew that this landmark that lay in disrepair was once a symbol of the city’s glory days” When you enter Mumbai’s Royal Opera House, the twinkle of its grand chandeliers lights up an ornate ivory ceiling embellished with gold. The light accentuates the sheen of two marble statuettes that gaze ponderingly upon a foyer that looks exactly as it did 100 years ago. As you make your way to the box stalls, turn your glance upwards and the faces of Shakespeare and George Bernard Shaw, among other intellectuals, smile at you kindly from their place on a dome rimmed with lights. On your way out, after you have admired your own reflection in the rococo mirror hemmed in with stuccowork, be sure to climb up the staircase for…

ENCORE FOR MUMBAI’S OPERA HOUSE

Dawn of cinema in India

Cinema arrived in India with the screening of the Lumière Brothers’s pictures at Bombay’s Watson Hotel in 1896, shortly after their first screening in Paris. The films caused a sensation and were followed by a few early films made by Indian filmmakers including a documentary on wrestlers and the recording of a play. Dadasaheb Phalke is credited with the first full-length Indian feature film, Raja Harishchandra (1913), a film based on a story from Hindu mythology. The film became immensely popular, paving the way for the success of Indian cinema. Madan Theatre was a pioneering film production company that hired foreign directors to make films such as Nala Damayanti (1920). Ardeshir Irani’s Alam Ara (1931), a love story in Hindi/Urdu, was India’s first talkie, beating Madan’s Shirin-Farhad by a few…

Dawn of cinema in India

Campaign to save historic Mumbai

Abha Narain Lambah is an award-winning conservation architect who has authored various books on architecture. A consultant to ICCROM, UNITAR, World Monuments Fund, Global Heritage Fund and Archaeological Survey of India, she is associated with some of India’s most prominent architectural restoration projects. Her firm Abha Narain Lambah (ANL) Associates specialises in architectural conservation, building restoration and retrofit, museum design, historic interiors, preparation of urban and regional level management plans, conservation assessment studies, urban signage and street furniture. Some of the projects undertaken include historic monuments, public and educational buildings, historic palaces and hotels, heritage homes, museums as well as urban infrastructure. It has won eight UNESCO Asia Pacific Awards for conservation projects across India.› ANL Associates has worked on the restoration of formidable historic sites such as the Buddhist…

Campaign to save historic Mumbai

MUMBAI OPERA HOUSE

Essential information Located on Mama Parmanand Marg in Mumbai, better known as the Opera House district, the Royal Opera House Mumbai is easily reached from Charni Road Station on the Western suburban train line. The building is a short walk from the station. Alternatively, it’s just as easy and quick to take a local taxi. Mumbai is known for its expensive accommodation, with the better options concentrated in the South Mumbai region and around the airports. Most recommended are about three kilometres from the Royal Opera House. When to visit November to March is the season for pleasant weather and cultural activity in Mumbai. Time zone UTC+5.30 Currency INR Where to stay Luxury Hotel Marine Plaza One of Mumbai’s premier five-star hotels, its rooms command a fine view of the…

MUMBAI OPERA HOUSE

THE AMAZING RESCUE OF SS GREAT BRITAIN

Ask almost any Bristolian of the right age, and they will be able to tell you where they were when the ss Great Britain came home. “It was just one of those events that has an amazing emotional resonance for the people who witnessed it – the drama of that return must have been really compelling,” says Kate Rambridge, head of interpretation at the ss Great Britain Trust. It’s a view echoed by retired ship pilot Terry Russell, who recalls on that day in July 1970 “…something sort of took hold of the population of Bristol and they sort of came alive and they certainly took the ss Great Britain to their hearts.” Exactly 137 years earlier, to the day, Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s second steam ship, the ss Great Britain,…

THE AMAZING RESCUE OF SS GREAT BRITAIN

THE MANY LIVES OF THE SS GREAT BRITAIN

The world’s greatest transatlantic passenger steam ship The ss Great Britain changed history when it set sail on its first voyage, from Liverpool to New York in 1845. The 5,360 kilometres were covered in 14 days and 21 hours at an average speed of 9.4 knots (or about 17 kilometres per hour), crushing the previous speed record for this journey. However, on only its fifth voyage across the Atlantic the ship ran aground in Dundrum Bay, County Down, Ireland. Brunel was furious to find her abandoned to the elements and wrote: “The finest ship in the world has been left and is lying like a useless saucepan kicking about on the most exposed shore that you can imagine.” Eventually it was towed away for repairs and sold for £18,000 to…

THE MANY LIVES OF THE SS GREAT BRITAIN

FINDING THE DUNDRUM BAY ‘SHIPWRECK’ SITE

Until two years ago, the site where the ss Great Britain was grounded for nearly a year during her fifth voyage to New York in 1846 had eluded archaeologists. The ship became stuck in shallow water in Dundrum Bay, Northern Ireland, after its captain›mistook the lighthouse at St John’s Point for the one on the Isle of Man.›Fortunately no-one was injured and the passengers were evacuated. Although a number of artists captured the scene of the ship high and dry on the sands, no accurate position was recorded at the time. It might have been that the effect of Brunel’s revolutionary iron hulls on the magnetic compass was not fully understood at the time. The ss Great Britain was eventually emptied out, salvaged and towed back to Liverpool where it…

FINDING THE DUNDRUM BAY ‘SHIPWRECK’ SITE

SS GREAT BRITAIN

Essential information Tickets can be purchased on site or online and allow free unlimited return visits for a year. Entry is £14 for adults and £8 for children and discounts are available for senior citizens and students. Ticket price includes the use of free audio guides, allowing you to listen to the true stories of the passengers and crew. All areas of the site (Dry Dock, Dockyard Museum, Brunel Institute and ship) are accessible for wheelchair users and to avoid the uneven cobblestones at the main gate there is an alternative entrance by the Dockyard Cafe Bar. There are lively social events, story telling and educational programmes on offer to visitors of all ages. When to visit ss Great Britain is open every day except for the 24 and 25…

SS GREAT BRITAIN

HULL ’ S HIDDEN HISTORY

If ever a city were defined by its geographical position, it is surely Kingston upon Hull. Situated on the mighty Humber estuary, where the rivers of the Midlands and Yorkshire flow into the chill waters of the North Sea, it started life as a port and remains one to this day. It is unlike anywhere else in Yorkshire and has a character that is all its own – the air imbued with a salty tang and the streets redolent with a myriad of stories of merchants, sailors, monarchs and campaigners, fascinating histories of determinedly independent people. It feels somehow unfinished – a city that’s renewing itself, where anything could happen. Monks’ port Hull – or Wyke as it was originally named – started life in the late 12th century. It…

HULL

’
S HIDDEN HISTORY

Holy Trinity Church

This 700 year old church is the largest parish church in England. Holy Trinity church was founded by Edward I after he purchased the port of Wyke from the monks of Meaux Abbey. Hull sits on clay, so there is no readily available building stone – consequently the church was built of brick – and has some of the earliest medieval brickwork in the country. In later years, merchants left their own imprint on the building widening the chancel, adding a perpendicular nave and endowing various chantry chapels. During the period of the Commonwealth, the church was divided in two – townspeople worshipping on one side of a wall and garrison soldiers on another. The church was known to the Restoration poet Andrew Marvell, once MP for Hull, as well…

Holy Trinity Church

Poet’s corner

The poet Philip Larkin (1922-1985), recently commemorated in Westminster Abbey, was librarian at the University of Hull for more than 30 years and his work was inspired and informed by this ‘isolate city spread over water’, and the quiet churches and villages of its rural hinterland. He took up his post in 1955 and stayed until his death, living in an attic flat in Pearson Park and later in a 1950s house in Newland Park. He said that Hull suited him as it was: “…a little on the edge of things. I rather like being on the edge of things.” There is a Larkin Trail through the city and countryside, with 25 specially commissioned artworks at various sites connected to his life and work. Places include Paragon station, starting point…

Essential information Kingston-upon-Hull is in the East Riding of Yorkshire and can be reached by direct trains from London Kings Cross and Manchester Piccadilly. Paragon Interchange is the main transport interchange and coaches also run here from London. P&O Ferries run services to Rotterdam and Zeebrugge in northern Europe, while Humberside Airport is a 30 minute drive away. For tourist information call the Tourist Information Centre on 01482 300306 or see Visit Hull and East Yorkshire www.visithullandeastyorkshire.com. When to visit Pretty much any day in 2017 has to be the time to visit Hull, as there are events planned throughout the year. For further information see website below. Time zone UTC Currency GBP Where to stay Luxury North Star Club www.northstarclub.co.uk Self-catering woodland glamping ‘suites’ near Sancton, Beverley. They provide…

Cream phoneboxes

Visit Hull and you can’t fail to notice the rather chic, cream coloured phoneboxes that dot the city streets. They’re cream rather than red because Hull is the only city in the UK that runs its own telephone system. It has done so since the late 1890s as it never came under the Post Office monopoly – the city corporation controlled the telephones instead. The boxes, the same iconic K6 structures as those designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott, were originally painted green and white but later became the more elegant cream. The crown which adorned the red boxes on other British streets was removed. Once known as Hull Telephones, the telephone system was forcibly privatised in the late 20th century and is now known as KC (Kingston Communications). It…

Cream phoneboxes

CITY GUIDE TO ANCIENT ATHENS

As the birthplace of Western civilisation, democracy and philosophy, the ancient sites of Athens are undeniably important. Representing these very ideas is the city’s eternal core, the Acropolis, the icon of the city that continues to tower over the beautiful urban landscape. Our modern admiration for, and sheer fascination with Greece’s ancient world shines on the Golden Age of Athens, which flourished under the leadership of military general, talented orator and statesman Pericles (ruler from 461 to 429 BCE). This era was a time of peace, political›hegemony, economic growth and flourishing culture. However, it was to be the trying times of war that sparked the greatest years of Athenian history. It began with the Persians capturing the city in 480 BCE. In response, Athens and its allies formed the Delian…

CITY GUIDE TO ANCIENT ATHENS

The contest of Poseidon and Athena

One of ancient Greece’s most compelling myths tells how Athens came to be called Athens. The first king of Athens, Cecrops, held a contest between two Olympian gods who wanted the right to name the great city. Poseidon, the god of the sea and›Athena, the goddess of wisdom, would offer a truly valuable gift for the citizens and Cecrops would choose the more worthy one. Poseidon›struck his massive trident into the earth, which burst through to the waters of the sea over which Poseidon ruled, showing that he would offer the city significant naval power. However, the people didn’t appreciate that they couldn’t drink the salt water. Athena buried something in the ground, which grew into an olive tree, a symbol of prosperity and peace. The Athenians deemed it as…

The contest of Poseidon and Athena

1 Temple of Olympian Zeus The Temple of Olympian Zeus was the largest temple built during Ancient Greece. The ambitious layout began under the rule of the Athenian›tyrants who wanted the site to be the greatest temple in the ancient world, similar in design to the huge temples that were being built in Asia Minor. However, the ideas of›democracy changed this mentality and Athenians believed such a grand temple would be a›symbol of tyranny, so construction stopped. It wasn’t until the 2nd century, almost 700 years after the project had begun, that the temple reached completion under the reign of Roman Emperor Hadrian. Made of fine Pentelian marble, it featured a huge gold and ivory statue of Zeus and an equally large one of Hadrian himself. A›wall›was built around the…

TAKING IN THE CULTURE

Listen to: Ancient Greek History Podcast Listen to Yale University’s Professor Donald Kagan’s insight into the political, intellectual and artistic achievements of Athens, from the Bronze Age to the Golden Age. Read: Oedipus Rex, the powerful Athenian tragedy written by Sophocles Sophocles’s Oedipus Rex is considered the purest expression of Greek tragic drama, in which the mythical king of Thebes unwittingly killed his father and married his mother. Watch: Troy The 2004-film starring Brad Pitt and Orlando Bloom, which follows the assault on›the city of Troy›by united Greek forces, brings Homer’s epic tale of love and war to Hollywood grandeur.…

TAKING IN THE CULTURE

Who’s who in Ancient Greece?

Pericles The Golden Age of Athens flourished under Pericles, a gifted orator and statesman who helped democracy to flourish. Under his leadership, the Acropolis was built along with other architectural feats. Through his naval alliance, Athens controlled a vast empire. Sophocles Sophocles, a master of Greek tragedy, was a celebrated playwright who won numerous writing competitions. He is said to have written more than 100 plays with his best-known work cited as Oedipus Rex. Herodotus Before Herodotus, no one tried to explain the cause-and-effect of world events. Known as the father of history, Herodotus chronicled the Greco-Persian Wars in his work called The Histories, which is considered a founding work in Western literature. Socrates Famous for being a questioner of everything and everyone, Socrates immortalised the Socratic Method. Seen as…

Who’s who in Ancient Greece?

Take the family

Where to stay The Grande Bretagne Intertwined with the of Athens the history , Grande Bretagne is a luxury hotel known for its fantastic views of the city. The original building dates back to 1842, when it was first built as a mansion for a wealthy Greek businessman. By 1874, it was bought by another businessman who named it the Grand Bretagne. Today, the rooftop terrace features panoramic view of Athens and some balconies face the Acropolis. Centrally located on Syntagma Square, the hotel is within walking distance of major sights and museums. Classic rooms start from €230 per room/per night. Eat & drink Orizontes Boasting a dining balcony perched on Lycabettus Hill – one of the highest peaks in Athens – Orizontes restaurant features a stunning panorama of the…

Take the family

Essential information Where Athens is the capital and largest city of Greece, set on a peninsula that stretches south into the Aegean Sea. Served by the Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, flights connect to major cities worldwide including direct to the UK. The city’s main port of Piraeus often sees cruise ships and is a hub for ferries set to the Greek islands. The Athens Metro stops at major points of interest, the port of Piraeus and connects to train lines. Several stations exhibit ancient antiquities found during construction. A trolley and bus system also serves Athens. When to visit Athens is a year-round destination, but very popular during the summer especially for those en route to the Greek islands. Avoid crowds and enjoy pleasant weather in the late spring and…

THE FATHER OF SCIENTIFIC ARCHAEOLOGY IN BRITAIN

“…To dwell on the discovery of odds and ends that have, no doubt, been thrown away by the owner as rubbish” AUGUSTUS PITT R I V ER S Born Augustus Lane-Fox in 1827, Pitt Rivers had a successful career in the army, reaching the rank of lieutenant general. His interest in archaeology and ethnography was sparked in the 1860s when he was posted to southern Ireland; there, he surveyed a number of prehistoric forts. He was already a collector of militaria and soon he began to acquire ethnographic objects too. Unusually for the time, he also collected many everyday items too, as well as fine art. In the Victorian period, there was a vogue for ‘treasure hunting’ by antiquarians. They all wanted to dig to find antiquities, however,…

THE FATHER OF SCIENTIFIC ARCHAEOLOGY IN BRITAIN

1 Egypt excavation In a rare excavation in 1880, Pitt Rivers discovered palaeolithic remains in the Valley of the Kings in Egypt. 2 Lecturer Pitt Rivers was a member of a number of archaeological and anthropological societies, regularly giving lectures. 3 Public educator In Farnham, Dorset, near Cranborne Chase, he established an educational museum “where visitors may instruct themselves.” 4 First inspector Pitt Rivers became the first inspector of ancient monuments after Sir John Lubbock’s Ancient Monuments Act in 1882. 5 Advocate of cremation When he died in 1900, Pitt Rivers requested that his body be cremated at a time when cremation was rare.…

IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF… Robert Louis Stevenson

Robert Louis Stevenson (1850-1894), author of classic novels including Treasure Island , Kidnapped and Strange Case Of Dr Jekyll And Mr Hyde , is nowadays most often linked with either the Scottish capital of Edinburgh – the city of his birth and early adulthood – or the South Pacific island of Samoa where he eventually settled. However, many of his most formative life experiences actually happened during numerous trips he made to France, with either family or friends. According to his stepson, Lloyd Osbourne, Stevenson was “mentally… half a Frenchman; in taste, habits and prepossessions he was almost wholly French. Not only did he speak French admirably and read it like his mother-tongue, but he loved both country and people…

IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF… Robert Louis Stevenson

The love of his life

Biographers are unclear about the exact date in 1876 when Stevenson first met his future wife, Fanny van de Grift Osbourne, but that’s alright – the couple were too. Writing to Fanny from Manasquan, New Jersey, on their 8th wedding anniversary, Stevenson wished he knew other “more important dates,” including, “…the day when I looked through the window”. That referred to their first meeting, during an evening meal at Hotel Chevillon in Grez. “It was a soft, sweet evening, and the doors and windows were open; dusk drew near, and the lamps had just been lit,” Fanny’s sister Nellie later wrote. “Suddenly a young man approached from the outside. It was Robert Louis Stevenson, who afterwards admitted that he had fallen in love with his wife at first sight when…

The love of his life

10 TREASURES OF THE Museum of New Zealand, Te Papa Tongarewa

Waharoa LOCATION: Wellington Foyer, Level 2 This waharoa is a gateway to the treasures of Te Papa. It was carved by master carver Neke Kapua and his sons Eramiha and Tene from one large piece of Tötara, a New Zealand native timber, in 1906. The waharoa is flanked on both sides by carvings of ancestors – warriors and manaia (guardian) figures – and is painted with a red ochre colour. Rangimoana Taylor explained “The meaning of ‘waha’ is ‘mouth’ and ‘roa’ means ‘long’. The waharoa, a long mouth, is a gateway to a Māori village. The carvings represent our ancestors, and our ancestors are incredibly important. The eyes of the central carving are made of Paua, also known as abalone. Facing the sun, the eyes shimmer, giving the idea that…

10 TREASURES OF THE Museum of New Zealand, Te Papa Tongarewa

Castles & palaces in Copenhagen

Christiansborg Palace Beneath the opulent Christiansborg Palace, home of the Danish parliament, is a mysterious world. These are the ruins of the 12th-century castle of Bishop Absalon. Visitors can tour not only the splendour of Christiansborg Palace, but also the evocative remains of the ruined castle. EXPLORER’S ESSENTIALS ✵ Tues-Sun: 10am-5pm Adult: 150 DKK (£16/$20) Child: 75 DKK (£8/$10) visitcopenhagen.com Rosenborg Castle This stunning 17th-century castle takes travellers back in time to meet the waxworks of those who once called its halls their home. Here you can relive some of their most scandalous episodes. However, whatever you do, don’t miss the Danish crown jewels, which are sure to take your breath away. ✵ Tues-Sun: 10am-2pm Adult: 105 DKK (£12/$15) Child: Free visitcopenhagen.com Frederiksborg Castle Set on an island in its…

Castles & palaces in Copenhagen

Historic cemeteries of Paris

Montmartre Once littered with the victims of the Reign of Terror, Montmartre is now an oasis of tranquility in one of the city’s most famed districts. Rich in awe-inspiring sculpted tombs and resting place of some legendary Parisians, it is not to be missed. EXPLORER’S ESSENTIALS ✵ Mon-Sun: 9am-5:30pm Entrance is free en.parisinfo.com Père Lachaise The largest of these cemeteries is also the world’s most visited. Thousands of visitors flock to it every single day to wander through its 70,000 tombs and pay homage to figures from rockstars to artists to politicians and beyond. No trip to Paris is complete without a stroll through Père Lachaise. ✵ Mon-Sun: 9am-5:30pm Entrance is free en.parisinfo.com The Panthéon This iconic and opulent building is famed for its magnificent crypt, where visitors can easily…

Historic cemeteries of Paris

Churches in Dumfries and Galloway

The picturesque landscape of Dumfries and Galloway is home to some truly inspiring historic churches. Here are five of the best Lincluden Collegiate Church Although ruins are all that remain of the church built here in 1389, it is still possible to get an impression of the building that was once a centre of worship. The ornate tomb of 15th-century Princess Margaret can be viewed here, and it’s well worth a stop. EXPLORER’S ESSENTIALS ✵ Open 24 hours Entrance is free Located east of the A76. Parking available at the Abbey Inn Kirkmadrine Early Christian Stones Three of the eight stones here date back to the 5th century, providing evidence of early Christian worship in Dumfries and Galloway. Considered to be one of the earliest Christian sites across all of…

Churches in Dumfries and Galloway

Georgian stately homes in northern England

Lyme Park Famed for its numerous appearances in film and TV, Lyme Park has something for everyone. Whether you want to play an Edwardian piano, admire the artwork or just stroll through the deer park and let younger visitors loose on the adventure playground, Lyme is sure to be a great day out. EXPLORER’S ESSENTIALS ✵ Tues-Fri: 11am-5pm Adult: £11 ($13), Child: £5 ($6) nationaltrust.org.uk Castle Howard One of the most magnificent stately homes in Great Britain, Castle Howard has long been a favourite of many filmmakers. With its evocative interiors, breathtaking architecture, hectares of parkland and a packed schedule of events for everyone in the family, this is not a place to miss. ✵ Mon-Sun: 10am-5pm Adult: £18 ($21), Child: £9 ($10) castlehoward.co.uk Harewood House Harewood House just oozes…

Georgian stately homes in northern England

Temples in Kathmandu

Boudhanath Stupa This enormous temple still welcomes Buddhist pilgrims every single day and is considered as the centre of Nepalese Buddhism. Within this UNESCO World Heritage site lay the remains of Kassapa Buddha and the richly-appointed temple is steeped in history and legend. EXPLORER’S ESSENTIALS ✵ Open 24 hours Entrance costs 250NPR (£2,/$2) for foreign visitors Swayambhunath Stupa Situated atop a peak overlooking the Kathmandu Valley, visitors on foot can expect to tackle 365 steps to reach Swayambhunath Stupa. The Monkey Temple lives up to its name, so expect to see plenty of wild monkeys however you make the trip to this UNESCO World Heritage Site. ✵ Open 24 hours Entrance costs 200NPR (£1/$2) for foreign visitors Changu Narayan Once again listed by UNESCO, Changu Narayan was badly damaged by…

Temples in Kathmandu

FAREWELL from Explore History

Thank you for joining us on journeys around the world and into the past over the ten issues of Explore History. We’ve enjoyed bringing you stories from across the globe, unearthing the truth behind history’s myths and legends, and digging deeper into the latest archaeological finds. If you’ve loved reading about them, fear not – there’s still plenty of fascinating history to be found in our sister magazines. Whether you’re looking to be surprised each month with in-depth features on subjects from throughout the centuries, or you’re looking for more specialist articles on royalty or military history, there’s sure to be something for you inside All About History, History of Royals and History of War. For now, we’d like to thank you again for reading, and hope you’ve enjoyed our…

FAREWELL from Explore History

THE CHIEF LEATHERLIPS MONUMENT

If you take a trip to Dublin, Ohio, don’t miss this unique monument to Chief Leatherlips, a man who never broke a promise. Leader of the Wyandot people, Chief Leatherlips was celebrated for his honesty and integrity. In the 1800s he signed a controversial treaty with white settlers and swore never to take up arms against them, but instead to live in harmony. No matter what happened, he held true to his pledge, eventually to the detriment of his relationship with other Native American people. Although his actual name was Shateyahronya, the settlers, in honour of the promise that he kept, gave him the nickname of Chief Leatherlips. That promise, however, was to prove the death of him and in 1810, Shateyahronya was found guilty of witchcraft by his own…

THE CHIEF LEATHERLIPS MONUMENT

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