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32 Articles

FROM THE EDITOR

■ THE RA Summer Exhibition is an institution in its own right. The world’s largest open submission exhibition, it has been held every year without interruption since 1769 – even during Covid lockdowns, when it had to be delayed but not cancelled. The publishing calendar is such that I sit writing this at the end of March, when social media has been peppered with news of rejection letters from the RA, along with some happier posts. The will among artists to win an acceptance letter from the prestigious show is very keen and they take rejection hard. It must be a perplexing exhibition to put together, though. Works in a variety of media are eligible and with the RA’s open submission policy, emerging artists battle it out for a space…

FROM THE EDITOR

Pretty little thing

■ ANNEVON FREYBURG’S ART engages in the debate surrounding femininity and female identity. Departing from norms that sidelined traditionally feminine materials, she reclaims the value of textiles and embroidery in fine art, with an approach that disrupts the hierarchy of craft and fine art. By concealing her own paintings with fabrics, she challenges the notion that painting holds the highest artistic value. The under-painting guides her fabric placement, with Rococo masterpieces repurposed into fashion fabrics as a nod to the traditional medium. The Rococo aesthetic provides a rich palette, allowing her both to engage with and distort modern ideals through quilting techniques that simulate cosmetic ‘procedures’. Blending high and low art, she repurposes 1970s tapestry wall-hangings, fusing them with modern materials like BDSM lacquer faux leather, challenging norms while also…

Pretty little thing

‘My grandfather used to embroider, which always seemed unusual to me as a child. I was fascinated by his sofa, where he sat sewing. The back of the sofa was completely covered with cut threads of all colours, split and ready to use. It was a beautiful sight. ‘He had been taught to embroider by a “Lady Someone” in Durham. She took in a group of young lads who had been shell-shocked in the First World War and it must have been a kind of therapy. He continued to embroider all his life. When he died my aunt gave me his threads and left-over cloth and this prompted me to produce a series of embroideries for my post-diploma show at Glasgow School of Art in 1976. I was in the…

In Weaving Abstraction in Ancient and Modern Art, at The Met, New York, two bodies of work separated by at least 500 years have been brought together to explore the connections between artists of the ancient Andes and those of the 20th century. Textiles by four modern artists – Anni Albers, Sheila Hicks, Lenore Tawney and Olga de Amaral – are shown alongside pieces by Andean artists from the first millennium BC to the 16th century. The more than 50 works on display offer insights into the emergence of abstract imagery. Until 16 June. metmuseum.org Mary Farmer (1940–2021) was at the forefront of radical textile art from the late 1960s to 1990s, creating striking, abstract tapestries. ‘Colour is to me,’ she wrote, ‘the single most powerful and emotive visual sensation.’…

Vibrant creations

An acclaimed Devon textile artist’s dazzling interpretation of the story of creation is to be the centrepiece of an exciting festival in Herefordshire this summer. Jacqui Parkinson’s Threads through Creation will be on display at Leominster Priory, 5 June–18 July. The installation features 12 huge textile panels which are inspired by the first pages of the Bible. In the three years they took to make, Jacqui used countless yards of sumptuous silks, miles of thread and more than eight million stitches to create one of the largest textile art projects by a single artist in the world. Inspired by the same theme, there will be a second exhibition showcasing the skills of Leominster’s community groups and institutions. Organised by Priory Arts on behalf of Leominster Priory, an array of events…

Vibrant creations

A medieval romp

Naughty Medieval Embroidery by medieval stitch specialistTanya Bentham comes with an adults-only warning. This practical book explains a range of techniques used in medieval embroidery, from simple stem stitch to silk and goldwork. But, rather than the usual flowers and shields, it includes colourful aspects of medieval life, such as cheeky demons and phallic symbols. Naughty Medieval Embroidery by Tanya Bentham, The Crowood Press, £18.99. crowood.com opusanglicanumembroidery.com…

A medieval romp

Crochet artist and founder of the popular Instagram site @KnottedNeon, Aynsley Grealis presents a pattern collection for making fanciful hats, balaclavas and handbags in all shapes and sizes. In Mad Hatter, her first book, Grealis shares her previously unpublished designs and patterns to teach readers how to make three simple bases and then decorate each by incorporating layers of whimsical appliqués. The patterns look complicated, but the secret is in the embellishments, from coral reef fish, mushrooms and stars to bees and clouds. Mad Hatter: Crazy, Colorful Crochet Designs to Hook and Show Off by Aynsley Grealis, Abrams, £17.99, 23 May. abramsbooks.com Chloe Giordano is celebrated for her delicate, lifelike, nature-inspired embroidery. Fans of Chloe will be pleased to hear she’s releasing an expanded paperback edition of The Embroidered Art…

Seventies flower power

Stitching the Decades, 11 May–5 June, takes a backwards glance at Sue Rangeley’s fascinating work. Launching her career in 1974–1975 with a modest collection of embroidered evening bags, cushions and waistcoats, she attracted the interest of Vogue writer Judy Brittain. Based in a Cotswold studio in a rambling Victorian house with other artists and craftspeople, Sue’s career echoed the vibes of the time, with the revival of British arts and crafts encouraged by support from the Crafts Council. During the 1970s, pivotal moments included couture commissions for designer Bill Gibb; photos in Vogue; the cover of Crafts magazine, an exhibition in Paris; and gallery commissions. The artist’s signature style emerged: romantic embroidered fashions, delicate painted silks and free-flowing quilting patterns, strewn with depictions of flora and butterflies. Sue’s embroidered textiles…

Seventies flower power

There is no ignoring Katie Tubbing’s fashion creations. They scream ‘more is more’. Yet at the heart of this 27-year-old designer’s art, there appears to be a paradox: she is both a maximalist and a proponent of sustainability. ‘Sustainable maximalism’ could be her mantra. ‘I always say I’m a maximalist and I like to challenge the fashion concept where you take elements away to reveal the essence of the piece. It’s almost like trying to introduce a new aesthetic.’ Currently making‘very flamboyant’ embroidered chokers, dripping with repurposed vintage jewellery, this, she says, is as commercial as her work gets. And it takes a special kind of client to revel in this look. ‘Because the chokers have so much “personality”, you need someone who has the personality to carry the piece…

‘The first Betty appeared in 2013 and I have continued to create a new episode each and almost every week since’ BETTY IS A QUIRKY EMBROIDERED character whose adventures I post on my Facebook page on Friday evenings. The first Betty appeared in early 2013 and I have continued to create a new episode each and almost every week. The first Betty was more an embroidered sketch than a completed artwork. Called Introducing Betty in her Bower, it presented a contemplative lady with a mysteriously pale and featureless face, wearing a full-length spotted dress and sturdy ankle boots. She sat cross-legged in a hollow, framed in a wintry setting by the branches of a leafless tree and a group of distant stars. So began Betty’s story. With Betty there was…

Visions of Paris

■ EACH SPRING, the coveted Madeira Rose Bowl trophy is hotly contested in the Madeira Embroidery Competition at the Fashion and Embroidery show, NEC, Birmingham. With the themeVisions of Paris, this year’s top prize was awarded to David Morrish for his evocative machine embroidered artwork, Paris in Bloom: A Lover’s Tale. David scooped a Husqvarna sewing machine, Madeira threadTreasure Chest and the Madeira Rose Bowl trophy. Caroline Davies, from Bromley, was excited to win theVisitors’ Choice award, sponsored by Embroidery magazine, with her delicious artwork called, simply, Croissant. Caroline commented: ‘It means a lot to me that people I’ve never met liked my work enough to vote for it. As an artist, it gives me a real sense of validation and pride.’ From fruit juice cartons, fried eggs and fruit…

Visions of Paris

MACHINE MADE winners update

SHAKING IT UP Learn more about Hannah Glossop, who loves to innovate with materials and different ways of working and has just started to try out her Brother machine Could you tell us about your background? My earliest memory of textiles is of my gran teaching me to use a sewing machine about 15 years ago. I was used to being around creativity from an early age, but the turning point in my design journey was when I opted for art and textiles at GCSE. I chose to focus on textiles, finding I had a passion for it and that I wanted to pursue it. After school, I studied fashion and textiles at Nottingham College, exploring both construction and pattern cutting, as well as different textile approaches. I recently achieved…

MACHINE MADE winners update

The power to disturb

■ THE WORK OF THE Korean artist Yoon Ji Seon is impossible to pigeonhole. Both she and her work are remarkable. Firstly, there are her Rag Faces – puffed-up, padded visages that contort and gurn, while appearing to be stretched and pulled beyond recognition by invisible hands that yank at the threads that ooze from them. Then there is the Pricked series – again featuring faces but these are elegiac, veiled with lace and pierced hundreds, maybe even thousands, of times with tiny acupuncture needles. The photographs in her Body series are even more unsettling, with female hands caught between overly-hirsute, seemingly male, thighs and aping genitalia. Although she trained as a painter, Yoon describes herself as having a ‘love-hate’ relationship with painting. An iconoclast, making work that eschews the…

The power to disturb

NEW STUDIO, NEW SHADES

■ LAST SUMMER, eschewing the bustle of Central London for the tranquillity of rural Berkshire, the embroiderer Ekta Kaul packed up and transported her studio from Cockpit Arts in Bloomsbury to a space in The Coach House at Yeldhall Manor. ‘I’d stopped working at Cockpit during the pandemic and, having two small children and no childcare, started doing so from home. For a time, this really worked, but I did miss having creative people around me. When it was possible to return to my studio, I realised that I was spending over two hours commuting there and back.’ Kaul began looking for an alternative studio space nearer home but nothing seemed suitable. ‘Then, out of the blue, this space at Yeldhall came up. A potter friend of mine already had…

NEW STUDIO, NEW SHADES

Dress to impress

One dress, 14 years in the making, with 380 stitchers from 51 countries and ‘literally hundreds of millions of embroidery stitches – 500,000 at least on just one panel’. The statistics on Kirstie Macleod’s Red Dress project are dizzying. Back in 2009 she had no idea how far the project would extend, but about some things, she felt certain. ‘I wanted it to take 10 years to build and have time to evolve. The seed of the idea was about bringing different cultures and identities together, and that’s remained, but other things have come into it since then.’ Initially an installation artist, Kirstie wore the dress and stitched on it while visible in a clear cube, but the project has become less about her as an artist, with the Red…

Dress to impress

A colourful life

‘C is in the culture of Mexico,’ notes Victoria Villasana. ‘The celebrations, markets, street life colour and architecture are all colourful. Although I lived for a time in Brighton and London, I think that this colour has stayed with me, unconsciously, right from my childhood, and it has translated into my work.’ Villasana was born in Guadalajara, Mexico. The artist draws upon a wide pool of inspiration to make uplifting works which combine vividly coloured embroidery in the form of geometric shapes, highly linear or more organic patterns – often featuring loosely hanging threads or fringed elements – with predominantly black and white photography. From art and design history, to the rich cultural impact of Mexico, the vibrant stitched portraits she has been making for the last 10 years celebrate…

A colourful life

REVELLING IN RUINS

Could you share some of your early memories of textiles? My parents were creative, mostly out of necessity rather than choice, as money was tight. My father was a skilled woodworker and made furniture and my mum would make the soft furnishings. She often created curtains and cushions, along with our clothes. There is a photo of my mum and I in identical pink Crimplene trouser suits, with huge white lace ruffles down the front. This was normal for the 1970s… I remember my grandmother gave mum a huge collection of fabric and curtains that she didn’t want. I enjoyed playing shop with them, folding and sorting them into piles of colour and pattern. I had a sewing machine from an early age, which worked by turning the handle at…

REVELLING IN RUINS

The Colour PURPLE

An exhilarating African safari is a once-in-a-lifetime experience for many of us, but for Sophie Standing, her husband and young children, it became a daily thrill. The British-born artist lived cheek by jowl with ‘coalitions’ of cheetah and ‘dazzles’ of zebra, so it was natural to let these denizens of the savannah animate her art. Although British-born, Sophie moved with her husband to Cape Town in South Africa in her twenties, and more recently lived in Kenya. Now based in Dorset on the south coast, her vibrant works combine these diverse geographical influences. Made with delicate, appliquéd, quintessentially British floral cotton fabrics, layered with densely-worked embroidery on canvas, she describes her process as ‘thread painting’. Sophie has always had a love of colour, with her father’s architectural background influencing her…

The Colour PURPLE

1. Tour a 17th century embroidery collection Set within an ancient deer park below the South Downs, Parham is one of the country’s finest Elizabethan houses. On 23 May, 5 July and 18 September visitors can take a tour of their remarkable collection of 17th century embroidery, which has an unparalleled selection of Stuart embroidered pictures and panels, as well as room-hangings and bed-hangings. Places are limited, so book early. The tour takes 90 minutes, £21 (and includes admission to the gardens from noon and the house from 2pm). parhaminsussex.co.uk 2. Make a needlefelt/stitch bee As we start to hear the drowsy thrumming of bumblebees in the garden, this workshop in creating a British bee, from the aptly named Lydia Needle, is fitting. You’ll look at the anatomy of bees…

Alison Aye is a marvel. Tantamount to a juggler keeping several plates spinning at the same time, she manages to hold down two jobs, running a home, a family and an arts practice, as well as caring for her father. Evidently a born pragmatist, the artist makes when she can, which is mostly on trains. ‘I always have something small with me,’ explains Alison, ‘that’s how my work is, lots of small things joined together.’ Describing herself as ‘the daughter and granddaughter of miners and seamstresses’, Alison’s childhood amid the coal pit districts of the North East, and her teenage years overshadowed by the 1984–1985 strike, have made their mark not only on her sensibilities and political affiliations but on her work and, indeed, her humour. She is clearly proud…

Beachcombing for inspiration

ALTHOUGHTRAINED AS A home economist, I taught textile art and design for more than 30 years. My working life has always been about finding inspiration, developing ideas and teaching creative making techniques using fibres and fabrics. Since retiring from teaching, I’ve been lucky enough to travel widely and this has inspired my own creative journey. I’m a keen photographer and enjoy nothing more than taking macro images of nature’s surfaces using my smartphone. Every walk is an exhilarating adventure and I’m always on the lookout for something to pique my interest. Coastal areas provide a wealth of inspirational material for many artists, from sandy paths to the abundance of detritus washed up on the beach. My most recent work is inspired by the coast, which has provided a plethora of…

Beachcombing for inspiration

FREEDOM OF STITCH

Shining new light on stories of heartbreak, defiance and hope through 12 chronological case studies, Dr Isabella Rosner’s new zine, published by Common Threads Press, features a selection of remarkable embroideries all made in prisons, workhouses and mental health hospitals. Embroidery as a tool for communication and for creative and therapeutic benefit connects these diverse stories, from the Suffragettes and coded quilts by prisoners of war in the 1940s, to Brazilian embroiderer Arthur Bispo do Rosário, who made more than 1,000 pieces in the mental health hospital where he lived, a whole wing of which was given over to his practice. ‘Embroidery is bound up with the good and the bad things in life – to the dynamics of gender, class and colonialist power,’ Rosner states. ‘It’s so tied to…

FREEDOM OF STITCH

Sewing the seeds of recovery

Sam Miller makes curious art dolls, honouring her nostalgia for all things retro and her affinity with antiques, which dates from her childhood. Home is a Victorian property in East London, but she grew up in a 400-year-old house on the Oxfordshire/Wiltshire border. Her mother made ‘very brave’ colour and textile choices and Sam imbibed her love of Liberty fabrics, William Morris and making things. During our conversation over Zoom, Sam sits on a classic purple sofa, surrounded by her dolls, the honeysuckle-hued wall behind plastered with inherited oil portraits and landscapes. The artist has a dedicated studio in a bedroom to the rear, with her work born out of the vintage scene, where like-minded people not only collect, but mend, make and imagine, ‘while still being staunch feminists, obviously,’…

Sewing the seeds of recovery

Needle-painting pioneers

Tate Britain is flying the flag for women artists in their forthcoming exhibition Now You See Us: Women Artists in Britain 1520–1920, from 16 May to 13 October. It should be a great show, reminding us of women artists we knew of, and many we didn’t. Two artists in the exhibition, Mary Morris Knowles (1733–1807) and Mary Linwood (1755–1845) were embroiderers. Curator Tabitha Barber chose the two women as prime examples of what was often labelled: women’s work. ‘These two women in particular cross the boundary between embroidery and art because it’s needle-painting, which is mimicking painting deliberately.’ Barber’s choices reveal an underresearched area of embroidery and one that was extremely popular at the time, embroidering copies of famous paintings. Both Knowles and Linwood had interesting and unconventional lives. Mary…

Needle-painting pioneers

MEET TAG TEXTILE ART GROUP

How did the group start? TAG was set up in 1994 by friends who had met on City & Guilds creative embroidery courses and were looking to continue working creatively and collaboratively, sharing their expertise and investigating new approaches to textile art. Is there an overriding principle that binds you together? Members of the group focus on sharing their individual practice, together with a genuine excitement in exploring new techniques and processes. Work in a variety of media is welcomed, and celebrated, in order to encourage diversity in the textile and mixed media art pieces produced. Discussions during group meetings feed individual practice and collaborative projects. We make it a priority to use, where possible, Bankfield Museum’s prestigious textile collections in their rich and diverse galleries. Where and when do…

MEET TAG TEXTILE ART GROUP

CALDERDALE’S CREATIVES

Working as a multi-disciplinary artist, HELEN HAYMAN is beginning to explore how best to use the versatility of textiles in her current practice. Through the use of two- and three-dimensional processes, she hopes to bring the many aspects of her working practice into a new cohesive whole. The moorland is a forever changing landscape. Using paint, gesso, applied fabrics and stitch, MARGARET BROWN aims to portray this aspect of Calderdale in all its moods and shades. VIVIENNE A BROWN, a geologist and botanical artist, has looked at the physical setting of Calderdale, with its urban developments set among areas of natural beauty. She has marvelled at the ancient stone walls and explored the parks and recreation areas within them. Vivienne combines digital imagery with paper, print, fabric, machine and hand-stitch to create…

EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION

Following the King’s coronation, media coverage of the RSN’s phenomenal work on nine major commissioned pieces made conversation about embroidery a water-cooler moment. Elevating stitch as an art form to levels commanding international attention has been core to the RSN’s ethos since its 1872 inception. Dr Susan Kay-Williams, chief executive, explains that initially ‘Berlin woolwork, essentially one stitch, prevailed,’ leaving other stitches in danger of extinction. Happily, art embroidery was evolving. ‘We worked with William Morris, Burne-Jones and Walter Crane; our founders were keen to see embroidery displayed alongside fine art.’ To create work of global repute, the RSN has ‘always been about careers in embroidery.’ Established to offer employment to ‘educated, middle-class women otherwise destitute because the main male breadwinner died or was unable to earn a living’, students…

EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION

THE BIBA STORY, 1964–1975

■ ON GRADUATING FROM Brighton Art School in the mid-1950s, Polish born Barbara Hulanicki became a highly successful fashion illustrator pretty much overnight. She covered the post-war Paris couture shows of Dior and Balmain for Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and Women’s Wear Daily, and rendered extravagant fashion in her graphite and gouache illustrations. Back in London, with a heavy purse and a head full of fashion, she wanted to go out and buy clothes that epitomised the youth culture of her generation. Yet, what she desired didn’t exist, and this was the impetus for Biba. Barbara and her husband Fitz launched Biba (named after her younger sister) as a mail-order company. This exhibition charts the sensational and breathtakingly speedy Biba boom, which lasted 11 years, from the first dress to the…

THE BIBA STORY, 1964–1975

10 years of LONDON CRAFT WEEK

Why did you set up Yemen Noor Foundation for Education and Relief? YENOF is the result of more than 21 years of charitable work. We used to be called YERO (Yemen Education and Relief Organisation) and started in April 2003 in Sana’a, the capital of Yemen. I set up the organisation for many reasons; one of them was seeing children in the streets and not at school, with their mothers selling items or begging or washing cars. I felt sad for them and still it upsets me, especially when I ask a young boy or girl, ‘Why are you not at school?’ The answer always is, ‘I have to help my family and my younger brothers and sisters with the living expenses because my father is dead or sick and…

10 years of LONDON CRAFT WEEK

ON SHOW ALDEBURGH Seamless Flow, new work by 02Textiles, 6–11 Jun. The Courtyard Gallery, The Ballroom Arts, 152A High Street, Suffolk IP15 5AQ. 02textiles.co.uk ARUNDEL Stillness, mixed media show, 11 May–6 July, Gallery 57, 57 Tarrant Street BN18 9DJ. gallery57.co.uk AYLESBURY BloomingThreads: 400 years of embroidery blooms – an exhibition delving into the Embroiderers’ Guild Collection. Ongoing. Discover Bucks Museum, Church Street HP20 2PQ. discoverbucksmuseum.org BEDFORD Ukrainian Folk Art: 200 embroidered items, pysanky decorated eggs, beaded jewellery, Petrykivka art and woodwork, plus a Ukraine map embroidered by women recently arrived in Bedford due to the war. Until 11 May, Wed-Sat, 12pm-4pm. Free. John Bunyan Museum Basement Gallery, Mill St. MK40 3EU. BIRMINGHAM Quilt Art: Material Evidence until 27 May. MAC, Cannon Hill Park, B12 9QH. macbirmingham.co.uk BOVEYTRACEY 20Years in the…

Apply now FORTHE BRODERERS’ EXHIBITION 2025

■ The Worshipful Company of Broderers is delighted to announce that the Broderers’ Exhibition is returning to the Bankside Gallery in London between 25 February and 2 March 2025 and is currently inviting submissions. The Broderers’ Exhibition: The Art of Embroidery promotes and celebrates embroidery as fine art. It is an open-submission art event, similar in concept to the Summer Exhibition at the Royal Academy. Professional as well as emerging artists can enter their artwork to be considered for inclusion. The exhibition is organised by the Worshipful Company of Broderers, one of the ancient livery companies of the City of London, formed to regulate the standard of embroidery, a major City trade in the Middle Ages. The exhibition provides embroidery artists with a platform to gain exposure and display and…

Apply now FORTHE BRODERERS’ EXHIBITION 2025

Join the Embroiderers’ Guild for a host of activities this Spring & Summer!

Talking Threads 9 MAY 2024 ‘Historically Inaccurate’ Needlework with Richard Saja An American artist based in New York, Richard says “My intention is to continue the decorative art tradition and be part of its evolution by making functional pieces that convey bigger concepts”. This will be an exciting informal discussion with Susan Weeks about how historical works can be ‘updated’ to the 21st century to keep history alive without losing the original design. Thread Talks 14 MAY 2024 Threads of Creativity: David Morrish of Kingfly digital embroidered art Have you ever been spellbound by the intricate designs of digital embroidery and wondered about the enigma that lies behind each thread? Dive into an enchanting evening where the allure of Kingfly’s digital embroidery will be unspooled before your very eyes. 19 JUNE 2024 An…

Join the Embroiderers’ Guild for a host of activities this Spring & Summer!

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