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27 Articles

EDITOR’S NOTE

In the blink of an eye, we have moved into a new year and, hopefully, we will see the global market come roaring back to life. The first piece of good news is that Watches And Wonders 2022 is taking a step towards the new normal with its first physical fair since the pandemic started and we will report on all the tantalising new releases in our next issue. But before then, our first issue for 2022 ties up the watch year with the latest launches over the past few months. We also discuss major trends and focus on extensions to popular lines. I hope you will find at least one watch to add to your growing collection after you are done with this issue. If you don’t know where…

BLUE SKIES AHEAD

Bell & Ross is ready for take off at one of Kuala Lumpur’s newest malls, Pavilion Bukit Jalil. With 700 points of sale in 60 countries, this is yet another sign that the relatively youthful brand is going from strength to strength. Its Pavilion Bukit Jalil boutique, like others around the world, has a modern minimalist spirit. Natural wood veneer, black metal display cases and a grey slate floor set the tone of the light and airy space. Meanwhile, a thoughtful selection of aviation references recalls Bell & Ross’ guiding principles centred on the reinterpretation of flight instruments.…

BLUE SKIES AHEAD

PERPETUAL KNOWLEDGE

When H. Moser & Cie. unveiled its minimalistic perpetual calendar watch in 2005, the brand probably thought that it couldn’t have made a simpler and less superfluous version of the complication. And it was right, too. A watch that can mechanically calculate, display and adjust the entire suite of calendar indications – including date, month, and leap year – was never going to be anything less than complex. However, the introduction of H. Moser’s Perpetual Calendar changed all that. Unlike perpetual calendars of yore that struggled with cluttered dial displays and frightened their owners with pitfalls of hidden pushers and too-fragile adjustments to get these watches up to speed, H. Moser’s Perpetual Calendar looked like a three-hand watch. It also allowed one to set the time and date at any…

PERPETUAL KNOWLEDGE

Whether you are the proud owner of a new Vacheron Constantin watch, or an enthusiast who is looking to purchase a collectible from the legendary Manufacture, utmost peace of mind is assured with the company’s promise of its timepieces’ absolute provenance. Earlier this year, Vacheron Constantin announced that it will be issuing digital certificates of ownership based on blockchain technology for all of the brand’s collections, starting 2022. This service is extended to members of the The Hour Club, which comprises owners of Vacheron Constantin watches, and information about the watches can be accessed via the club’s website. Customers of the watches, whether new or pre-owned, can obtain a digital certificate upon registering details of the watch on The Hour Club’s website. This information will then be encrypted and stored…

Introduced in 2019, the original UR-100 model was billed as one of Urwerk’s most elegant takes on its satellite display complication, thanks to the watch’s svelte dimensions. At the same time, it was conceptually and technically far-out, described by its creators as a watch that could “measure both time and space”. The UR-100 boasts a carousel system that displays the hours, along with three arrow hands at the bottom of the dial. The three arrow hands rotate and take turns to mark the minutes, the distance travelled around the equator in 20 minutes (earth’s rotation), and the distance earth travels around the sun in 20 minutes (earth’s revolution). A metal arc across the top half of the watch bears markings on the left and right to denote rotation and revolution…

The Casio MT-G (short for ‘Metal Twister G-Shock’) line-up of ultra-tough, metal-clad G-Shocks have had a couple of wild offerings in recent years, spanning models covered in python skin-like patterns (MTG-B1000WLP-1A) to phoenix-inspired creations flaunting metallic rainbow-hued case (MTG-B2000PH-2A). For a truly one-of-a-kind buy with flamboyance to pair, however, the latest MTG-B2000XMG trumps them. Casio G-Shock has been going large with carbon anchored features in recent years. Utilising carbon in its myriad forms, from carbon fibre sheets to reinforced carbon resin, the brand has been using the ultra-lightweight but tough material to improve its watches’ robustness as well as offer unusual aesthetic options, as the new MTG-B2000XMG demonstrates. Boasting the collection’s requisite hardiness, along with innovations such as automatic synchronisation with radio wave time-calibration signals and smartphone link functionality, the…

TWO’S COMPANY

Patek Philippe and Cortina Watch have been retail partners since 1972, the same year that the latter was founded in Singapore. But the roots of the partnership go back even further than that—16 years to be exact—when Cortina Watch founder, Anthony Lim, and then-president of Patek Philippe, Henri Stern, first met. The serendipitous encounter led to Cortina operating six standalone Patek Philippe boutiques across Asia. Patek Philippe has created two timepieces in limited quantities to commemorate the occasion. The first is a Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G-010 in white gold, of which only 100 pieces will be available. The second is a one-of-a-kind grand feu cloisonné enamel domed table clock Ref. 20145M-001 depicting the Singapore skyline at night as fireworks explode overhead. Interestingly, it is powered by a mechanical movement…

The last two years have been such a crazy time for the entire planet. The extreme situation can only accelerate change. We have adapted and changed our working modes and, basically, sped up brand development. People deal with such crises in two ways. There are those who choose to wait and see, protect themselves from the storm and observe what happens. And then, there are those who will be even more active and work even harder to get out of the crisis in a stronger way. At Zenith, we took the second choice. We were on the way to becoming much more contemporary, while respecting our history and heritage. The crisis forced us to speed things up, whether on the digital front or better communication with the new generation. Our…

BREGUET HAND ENGRAVING

Few watchmakers are as celebrated and influential as Abraham-Louis Breguet, a horological genius whose inventions continue to shape modern luxury watchmaking. In 2021, his eponymous brand created a 35-piece limited edition run of artisanal tourbillons, celebrating the 220th anniversary of the epochal complication. Naturally, the gravity-defying mechanism took centrestage. But just as marvellous were the supporting cast of artful hand decorations that accompanied the tourbillon. Among the visual delights that included a variety of engine-turned engravings on the dial and, on the caseback, the elegant inscriptions ‘Anniversaire 1801–2021’ and ‘Brevet No 157 Du 7 Messidor An IX’, is a curious engraving of a line diagram. That turned out to be a faithful hand engraved reproduction of the original watercolor plate used by Abraham-Louis Breguet when filing his patent application for…

BREGUET HAND ENGRAVING

DEEPEST DESIRES

There’s something about that spirit of adventure that makes otherwise regular folk want to do incredible things. Like, say, go to the Moon. Or head in the complete opposite direction and plummet to the deepest part of the Earth. Both of which Omega has done to great acclaim, we might add. Showmanship and bravado aside, these feats are by no stretch of the imagination simple—whether for human beings or timepieces. Omega would know, seeing as it has been crafting dive watches for decades. In fact, its ‘Omega Marine’ with double case design and superb water resistance from 1932 was the world’s first professional dive watch to be made available to recreational divers. In 1970, Omega launched the exceptional Ploprof—a Seamaster capable of withstanding great pressures at immense depths. With its…

DEEPEST DESIRES

And so, it begins: a fresh new year brimming with the promise of new watch acquisitions. Kickstarting the proceedings, as has been the case for the past two years, is the LVMH Watch Week that stars Bvlgari, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Zenith. Started in 2020 by the LVMH conglomeration that counts the four brands under its auspices, the LVMH Watch Week is among several standalone watch showcases to spring up in the wake of Baselworld—once the world’s largest annual watch fair. Also a precursor of sorts to Watches & Wonders, the rebranded Geneva based Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) that has now taken over as THE biggest watch fair in the world, the LVMH Watch Week has been serving up teasers of what to expect from the four…

Yes, a certain Tiffany blue Ref. 5711 might have hogged the limelight last year with its astounding $6.5million record on the auction floor. In fact, one could be forgiven for thinking Patek Philippe was all about 5711s, given how it has been teasing us relentlessly with them. But take a step back and recall that image of Patek Philippe president Thierry Stern (and his father before him), intently listening to the chimes of the minute repeater held up to his ear, and you’ll know where this is going. For Patek Philippe—in our eyes (or ears) at least—is the undisputed king of the minute repeater. It comes as no surprise then, that the subject of the Manufacture’s latest ‘Advanced Research’ project would be a minute repeater. Just when we didn’t think…

Commemorative Lunar New Year timepieces are certainly an acquired taste. They make most sense to those who subscribe to the 12-year Chinese zodiac cycle, represented by a different animal for every year – and each with its own cosmic energy that supposedly impacts fortunes for the year. Nonetheless, the Chinese zodiac has proven to be a well of inspiration – not to mention, huge marketing opportunities to the Chinese markets – for luxury watchmaking houses. Each Lunar New Year, these brands unabashedly bat their eyes at moneyed collectors with offerings that depict the year’s zodiac animal in a variety of artisanal expressions. The Year of the Tiger is no different. This time, the celebrated beast is portrayed with a diverse array of decorative techniques, styles and complications that appear at…

If you’re visiting a new city (remember when travel was a thing?) you’d probably pop into a museum or two as part of the recommended itinerary and check out must see pieces of art, right? We’d imagine anyone who goes to the Louvre in Paris will brave the swarm of tourists around the Mona Lisa, jostling for that perfect Instagram picture (because if it’s not on social, did it really happen?). But while the Louvre houses an amazing collection of famous art pieces and rare artefacts from ancient Europe, it also boasts beautiful contemporary artwork and installations that most people tend to skip because, well, they don’t have two days to spend at the sprawling museum. Those who do take the time to explore, though, walk away with an experience…

Jacob & Co recently entered a long term partnership with Warner Brothers Consumer Products and DC Comics and their first collaboration lands just in time for The Batman reboot. The fabulous Gotham City is a fitting tribute to the superhero created by Bob Kane and Bill Finger that debuted in 1939. Key elements of the watch, be it visible or hidden, carry meanings that reference Bruce Wayne and his crime-fighting alter ego, Batman. Trivia Pursuit Most immediate, of course, is the unmistakable Batman emblem that takes up three-quarters of the upper dial and glows blue in the dark. Cut out of solid onyx, it is bevelled, polished, and outlined with yellow Neoralithe, a composite that includes Super-LumiNova. In the same vein, the design of the 45.5mm case is a nod…

PRECISION POINT

Since its introduction in 1953, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has become an icon among diving and watch enthusiasts alike. It is undeniably one of the toughest in its category, built to withstand the harshest conditions. After going into hibernation during the quartz crisis of the 1970s and 1980s, the Fifty Fathoms re-emerged in 2003 with a limited run to coincide with its 50th anniversary. Recently, Blancpain unveiled the latest edition of the Fifty Fathoms Tourbillon 8 Jours (‘jours’ is French for ‘days’). First introduced in 2007, it kickstarted a dedicated high-performance collection for divers by the Swiss watchmaker. Its arrival, however, elicited a mixed reaction, and left many asking: Why would anyone want to drop such a delicate and precious grand complication into a sports watch? While the pairing seemed…

PRECISION POINT

Bell & Ross cemented its reputation as the leader in the aviation watch market with the launch of its iconic square BR 01 model in 2005 and never looked back. The brand has of course expanded its repertoire since then, but always with legibility, functionality, reliability and precision as the central tenets of its approach to everything that it does. Pure And Simple A successful tentpole for Bell & Ross of late is the BR 05 collection with its resolutely urban look and feel. While it is hard not to fall in love with even the most basic three-hand BR 05 model, the chronograph option has been particularly well-received. The complication made its debut as part of the range in 2020, but this year’s White Hawk outshines all previous iterations…

MONKEY BUSINESS

Growing up, stories from Chinese mythology and folklore formed the fabric of my childhood. I found them mesmerising, mind-boggling and extraordinary in equal measure. My favourite was the 16th century literary masterpiece Journey To The West by Wu Cheng’en. After all, which boy doesn’t see a bit of himself in mischievous Sun Wukong, also known as the Monkey King? I also remember watching the Chinese animation classic, The Monkey King: Uproar In Heaven, and oohing and aahing with glee as the pages of the novel were brought to life in vivid technicolour on the silver screen. It told the tale of how Sun Wukong, a diety in monkey form born from stone, gains supernatural powers and acquires a red pillar with golden tips that he shrinks into a staff to…

MONKEY BUSINESS

THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING ERNEST

If you consider yourself a watch geek, you’ll undoubtedly have heard of Neuchâtel, birthplace of Abraham-Louis Breguet, home to a multitude of watch brands, and basically the nerve centre of watchmaking. But if you’re not as familiar with the name, Ernest Borel, we wouldn’t blame you. The low-key watch brand founded by Jules Borel in 1856 isn’t one for theatrics, glitzy presentations or audacious stress tests. In fact, the 165-year-old company’s corporate ethos is ‘Romantic Moments’—something you don’t quite see with most brands these days, who may be more concerned with churning out the latest technical complication. Keeping Romance Alive Ask any number of watch collectors and you’re likely to find more than one who will tell you his or her appreciation for a particular brand or timepiece has much…

THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING ERNEST

READY PLAYER ONE

With an innate capacity for timing and precision, Maurice Lacroix and Simon Nogueira are kindred spirits. So, it comes as no surprise to discover that he is the latest member of the ML Crew—the Swiss watchmaker’s hipper way of referring to its ‘friends of the brand’. View From The Top To the uninitiated, Nogueira is a freerunning specialist. The activity is a version of parkour that typically places greater emphasis on acrobatic techniques and self-expression. The 27-year-old Parisian is among the best practitioners of the extreme sport, amassing a 3.5 million-strong following on TikTok all eager to live vicariously through the GoPro affixed to his body. What makes Nogueira’s exploits so engrossing is the fact he doesn’t explore a new city like the rest of us. He prefers to take…

READY PLAYER ONE

MODERN NOSTALGIA

Since arriving on the horology scene in 2013, SevenFriday has become a byword for affordable luxury. From skeleton dials to complications, the brand’s always-interesting watches feature elements that usually denote a hefty price tag. Even as its popularity and presence gather pace, SevenFriday continues to rise to the challenge of staying true to these principles without ever giving the impression it has boxed itself into a corner. This year, SevenFriday has added several extensions to its family of watches. Of all the new additions, the one that catches the attention most is the T2/04 T-Art. Aesthetically, it pays homage to the Art Deco design movement, an apt choice perhaps as the wristwatch first gained widespread acceptance around the 1920s. According to Encyclopaedia Britannica, the Art Deco style is characterised by…

MODERN NOSTALGIA

For sure, we will never allow ourselves to be caught in a bind trying to nominate the best women’s watches from Rolex. There have been far less arduous undertakings in horology than to arbitrarily proclaim ‘the best’ watch (in any category, to be fair) from the world’s most famous watch brand. But to discern a women’s watch collection that is the most historic and varied in Rolex’s catalogue – facts alone that would lend the watches the requisite gravitas – is far less challenging. This accolade goes to the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust, a collection that began life way back in 1957 and is today among one of the most varied lines in the Oyster Perpetual collection. Dubbed by Rolex as “a classic feminine watch par excellence”, the Lady-Datejust was created…

They say good things come in small packages and we couldn’t agree more. Especially when it comes to Bvlgari’s Piccolissimo, a new micro movement hidden in a gorgeous secret watch, the Serpenti Misteriosi. No stranger to miniaturisation—after all, the Maison is the proud creator of the award-winning Octo Finissimo watches—Bvlgari scales back the new calibre BVL100 in a very different way indeed, taking inspiration from the diminutive mechanical motors that used to drive women’s watches up till the early 1970s. It’s A Small World Weighing in at just 1.30g, the BVL100 lives up to its Piccolissimo (‘very small’ in Italian) name with a 12.30mm diameter and 2.50mm thickness. Measuring just 5mm in diameter, the barrel holds a mainspring that’s 170mm long and offers a 30-hour power reserve. Taking two and…

Put some respect on the name, ok? Because way before Chanel, Hublot, Audemars Piguet and the rest of them started seeing the potential in using high-tech ceramic in watches, Rado was already all in. Although the use of ceramic is increasingly common in luxury horology today, few dared hedge their bets on the material in the early days. Known as zirconium oxide, ceramic was incredibly hard to mould and shape. Although much progress has been made over the years to improve the material’s robustness, as well as offer it in a variety of shapes, sizes and colours, working with high-tech ceramic requires incredibly hefty investments and a great deal of courage. In fact, when Rado started exploring the use of high-tech ceramic back in 1986, it also unwittingly ushered in…

THE AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT

For many lifelong fans of mechanical watches, a fascination with the automatic movement is usually where it all starts. Prior to that, most would imagine that mechanical watches required some sort of physical manipulation - like winding - to get them to tick. While this is true and undoubtedly romantic, minds are inadvertently blown when they are told that there also exists a class of watches, also made entirely of mechanical parts, that will keep on running as long as you keep wearing them. Batteries not required. For yours truly, it was like finding out that Mariah Carey not only sang, but also wrote All I Want For Christmas Is You. Seriously. How is it possible that two blinding feats of money-making brilliance came from one single entity? And for…

THE AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT

Where to find and buy the watches you read about in CROWN

A. Lange & Sohne • Lot G34, Ground Floor Suria KLCC Tel: 603 2166 2181 • Lot 2.01.07, Level 2 Pavilion, KL Tel: 603 2141 8418 • G03L, Ground Floor, Suria KLCC, 50088 Kuala Lumpur, Tel: +603 2181 6868 Audemars Piguet • UG29, Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL Tel: 603 2144 8639 Bedat & Co • UG32, Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL Tel: 603 2141 7881 Bell & Ross • Lot 3.46.00 Level 3 Pavilion KL 168 Jalan Bukit Bintang 55100 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Tel: 603 9212 4456 • Lot 170-G-26,Ground Floor, Gurney Plaza, Persiaran Gurney, 10250 Penang, Malaysia. Tel: 604 202 2676 • Lot F-230A, First Floor The Gardens, Mid Valley City, Lingkaran Syed Putra, 59000 Kuala Lumpur Blancpain • Lot G38, Ground Floor Suria KLCC 50088 Kuala Lumpur…

A. LANGE & SÖHNE CALIBRE L042.1

Rectangular shaped creations are a rare sight in A. Lange & Söhne’s catalogue and so too, by association, are similarly shaped movements. And the Calibre L042.1, which drives the Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst from 2021, isn’t just a rarity-it oozes exceptional technical refinement. Comprising 370 parts, the movement builds on a solid, twin-barrel foundation to deliver up to 120 hours of power reserve and energy to run the time, outsized date display, and a tourbillon with balance that can be stopped and reactivated on demand for precise time-setting.…

A. LANGE & SÖHNE CALIBRE L042.1

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