BACK STORY

Returning to sprawling, romantic Buenos Aires after nearly three decades away, Tony Perrottet sifts through the city’s many layers, from modern restaurants and museums to the legendary tango bars

The unoffcial anthem of Buenos Aires is a classic tango from 1935, “Volver.” The name of the song means “to return,” and in it Carlos Gardel anticipates the mixed emotions of revisiting the city after many years. “To feel…that life is a puff of wind,” he croons, “that 20 years is nothing.” For me, it had been nearly 30 years since my last visit to Buenos Aires, a city to which I’d bought a one-way ticket as a young man with a wild dream of setting myself up as a foreign correspondent. By some miracle I established myself as a stringer for an array of international newspapers and was soon sharing a cheap apartment in the bohemian barrio of San Telmo with an NPR reporter. I became immersed in its…

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Conde Nast Traveler (Digital) - 1 Issue, April 2025

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