A HIGH STEAKS GAME

Gallaghers restaurant, New York’s oasis for carnivores, has thrived for 96 years, playing host to a colorful crowd of sports heroes, show people and classic characters

BY KENNETH SHOULER

Abartender shakes a Brandy Alexander to foamy completion. The voice of Frank Sinatra, clear as gin, fills the background with “Moonlight Serenade.” At Gallaghers Steakhouse, photos spanning the restaurant’s 96 years fill the walls: that’s New York governor Franklin Roosevelt, smiling from a convertible in 1930; there’s Joe DiMaggio’s fluid swing; the writer Damon Runyon wears his trademark carnation. Among some 350 framed images, racehorses alone comprise a veritable equine hall of fame. The historic surroundings elicit questions: “Is that one Man O’ War or Citation?” a diner wonders. “Who’s that jockey who rode two Triple Crown winners?” another asks. “Eddie Arcaro, riding Whirlaway and Citation,” his pal answers. Dean Poll, the owner of Gallaghers Steakhouse on Manhattan’s West 52nd Street, has to think both like a restaurateur and the curator…

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Cigar Aficionado (Digital) - 1 Issue, September/October 2024

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