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FROM THE EDITOR

People have been creating jewelry since people first knew they were people. That’s not going to change. A very fond farewell When I arrived at Art Jewelry 10 years ago, one of my first tasks was to write the editor’s letter. It seemed natural, as the new Editor coming to an established magazine, that I tackle the topic of change. Change can be exciting, I said — as artists who explore and push boundaries, Art Jewelry readers know this better than most. But change is also scary, and change often means casualties, and the temptation to curl up and stay where it’s warm and comfortable and life is not uncertain can be … well, all too tempting. Now we’re facing another change: This will be the last issue of Art…

FROM THE EDITOR

What: Join approximately 300 makers at UWMilwaukee’s Kenilworth building, a six-story facility of studio, exhibition, and instructional spaces, for a variety of lectures, exhibitions, museum tours, and think-tank sessions. Explore new crafts or fine-tune your current skill set with workshops focusing on blacksmithing, 3D printing and design, enamel, resin work, laser cutting and etching, video artist-statement creation, and more. Affordable accommodations are available through University Housing. When: May 25–29, 2016 Where: University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, Milwaukee, Wis. For more information: www.zoommilwaukee.com…

WINNER Monthly Design Challenges September 2015: Spirit of the Earth Artist: Kelly Morgen Gaia, Earth Mother necklace Inspiration: “The great Mother Earth, Gaia, is the nurturing life force that exists throughout the world. A goddess of abundance, creativity, and fulfillment, she is shown here adorned with golden flowers. Gaia helps connect us with the energy of the world and reminds us we all have a sacred place in the universe.” Materials used: Sterling silver, handcarved and scrimshawed recycled piano key, crazy lace agate, 18k gold, Australian opal, pearl. Dimensions: Approximately 13⁄4 x 13⁄8 in. (44 x 35 mm) For more information: www.kellymorgen.com WINNER October 2015: Skeletal Artist: Rodica Frunze Field of the Soul pendant Inspiration: “This piece symbolizes the ‘death’ of our constructed beliefs, which allows the purity of the…

Making a Spiculum

What: Start with a flat sheet of metal then raise it into a tapered hollow form and you have a spiculum. Spiculums, commonly seen as teapot spouts, can also be incorporated into sculptural or jewelry pieces. Join instructor Steve Shelby for this three-day workshop to learn his simplified method of making a spiculum. Students will start with practice drills and move on to more creative work. Depending on the pace of the students, there may be an opportunity to complete a finished piece, a standalone sculpture, a piece of jewelry, or a component to incorporate into a larger work. When: March 16–18, 2016 Where: Genevieve Flynn Studio, Kansas City, Mo. For more information: www.genevieveflynn.com…

Making a Spiculum

FIMO True Colours Polymer Clay

One of my favorite classes in art school was color theory. We learned how to use only one warm and one cool shade each of red, yellow, and blue gouache (plus white and black) to study color. When I first tried Staedtler’s new FIMO Professional True Colours system, I immediately equated it with those colortheory exercises and mixing colors of paint on a palette. One thing that can mess up what you think will be a good mixture of clay is not knowing what combination of colors (and their temperature, opacity, etc.) were used to make a particular color of prepackaged clay. Well, FIMO takes the guesswork out of mixing by using only one pigment per color. Yellow, red, magenta, blue, and green (plus white and black) — what you…

FIMO True Colours Polymer Clay

Gold Test Solution Kit, Testing Stone, Testing Needles

The purity of gold is based on a 24-point scale, more commonly known as karats. A piece of 10k gold is only 10 out of 24 parts gold, or 41.67% gold. Knowing the purity of your gold is important for repair work, reclaiming scrap, or establishing the value of a piece. There are electronic gold testers, and high-tech X-ray fluorescence spectrometers available, but they can be pricey. If you’re looking for an easy and inexpensive way to check the purity of gold, an acid test is your solution. I dug up four pieces of gold to test: three rings and a gnarly old gold tooth (honestly, you never know what you’ll find in my attic). Only two of these pieces were stamped (guess which ones!). Each of the testing needles…

Gold Test Solution Kit, Testing Stone, Testing Needles

Polymer Retreat

“For the past 10 (or so) years, a group of artists rent out a house and work (or not) in our makeshift studio together. This time, our retreat coincided with the November 2015 issue of Art Jewelry (it’s a particularly good issue for polymer folks). “Our little group couldn’t quite believe Claire Wallis’ tutorial ‘Basic Polymer Caning — with a Twist!’ Really? Simply offsetting a Skinner blend could result in this? We had to try it! One person read the instructions while the rest of us followed along with clay. And yes, we all sort of screwed up the first time, but that didn’t stop us. Once we got it, we could not leave the concept alone.”…

Polymer Retreat

Ruby & Sapphire: A Collector’s Guide by Richard W. Hughes

ISBN: 978-616-91450-3-5 Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand, 2014 384 pages $149.00 (To purchase: www.git.or.th) Let’s deal with the obvious: this is not a cheap book. Its price means that anyone considering buying it will be thinking about it as an investment, not as a spur-of-the-moment purchase. So the question is: Is the investment worth it? I firmly believe that an expert’s opinion is worth paying for. And in the field of gemology, Richard Hughes’ standing and reputation is stellar. Hughes worked with gifted photographers Wimon Manorotkul and E. Billie Hughes to create the finished volume. As I read through the book, I found I was struggling to classify it. Scientific information about sapphires and rubies and sphires was interspersed with excerpts from historical records; insight on how to interpret…

Ruby & Sapphire: A Collector’s Guide by Richard W. Hughes

Take Advantage of Getting Over Your Mistakes

We all make mistakes. I’ve never actually met anyone who has (seriously) claimed they’ve never made a mistake. But, simply accepting that mistakes are inevitable isn’t enough to get you to a healthy place regarding making them. Mistakes are valuable teaching tools, but only if you make the effort to learn from them. Too many people shy away from their past errors and do their best not to even think about them. That’s a sure prescription for making the same mistake again in the future. But admitting your mistakes, examining them in all their (sometimes excruciatingly) embarrassing detail, and learning from them — that makes the difference in business and life. Coming clean I’ll start by telling you one of my huge, disaster mistakes. My former partner, Bill Richey, and…

Take Advantage of Getting Over Your Mistakes

Sia Maravelias, manager (Quadrum Gallery, Boston, Mass.)

“I was given ‘The Law of the Garbage Truck’ years ago and have it printed above my desk as a constant reminder to ‘Let no one steal your peace.’ The story goes: “Many people are like garbage trucks. They run around full of garbage, full of frustration, full of anger, and full of disappointment … As their garbage piles up, they need a place to dump it, and sometimes they’ll dump it on you. Don’t take it personally. Just smile, wave, wish them well, and move on. Don’t take their garbage and spread it to other people at work, at home, or on the streets. The bottom line is that successful people do not let garbage trucks take over their day. Life is 10 percent what you make it and…

Studies have shown that the human thumb and index finger can exert 15–19 lbs. of pressure. Those researchers were never in my homeroom to experience a pinch by that miscreant Ricky Folger (who I swear generated 1,900 lbs.). Nor did they have Aunt Ethel, who unleashed her death grip on my cheek at family gatherings and left a welt. Our hands, with those wonderfully opposable thumbs, enable us to make things. We use these digits as tweezers, grippers, and clamps. But, like all mortals, we can use help. Enter the clamp. Clamps can be grouped into four general types based on their classification of working: wedge, screw, spring, and toggle. Wedge clamp This mechanism probably predates the other types of clamp, and is based on two simple machines: the wedge…

The Dynamic of Transmission and Reception

Transmission and reception sounds technical, but don’t let that be off-putting. This pair of words is perfect to illustrate a simple point: The transmission and reception of knowledge is like a radio or television broadcast; it takes both a means of projecting the content and a device for receiving the signal in order for the transmission to be complete. We all start by learning Here’s what I know about learning: It is a neverending activity that will (or should) continue for your entire life, no matter how long your life may be. Learning is a natural part of our existence as living creatures. Every day we learn something new, no matter how small or seemingly insignificant. Often, we don’t even pay attention to what we’ve learned, unless it’s one of…

The Dynamic of Transmission and Reception

Make Your Gold Go 4X Farther

materials ■ Sterling silver sheet: ■ 14-gauge (1.6 mm), 1 x 1 in. (25.5 x 25.5 mm) ■ 22-gauge (0.6 mm), amount determined by design (optional) ■ 24k-gold sheet: 34-gauge (0.16 mm), amount determined by design toolboxes, page 77 ■ Soldering/Annealing ■ Finishing additional tools & supplies ■ Shears ■ Steel bench block ■ European dead-blow or rawhide mallet ■ Cotton swab ■ Rubbing alcohol ■ Silicone medium-grit polishing wheel with a flex shaft or rotary tool (optional) ■ Needle ■ Agate burnisher ■ Rolling mill ■ Textured fabric or paper (optional) Find out where to buy supplies, page 79 See Safety Basics, page 76 See "3 Types of Torch Flames and When to Use Them” for an illustrated look at three different types of flames you can get with…

Make Your Gold Go 4X Farther

Give KEUM BOO more depth without more gold

Keum boo (pronounced “come boo”) is a traditional Korean technique of fusing gold foil directly onto a finished piece of fine silver. My method adds a twist, by first incorporating silver sheet elements before fusing the gold foil. While you can create more depth and dimension in your pieces this way than with gold alone, the heat required for this method is more intense than the traditional technique. With that in mind, plan on using a finished piece that only uses medium or hard solder — joins closed with easy solder will likely reflow during the foil-application steps. materials ■ Sterling or fine-silver finished piece (stones not set) ■ Fine-silver sheet: 24-gauge (0.5 mm), amount determined by design ■ Copper sheet: 18-gauge (1.0 mm) copper sheet, large enough to support…

Give KEUM BOO more depth without more gold

no torch? no problem!

I will occasionally swap out my torch with a sheet of 12-gauge (2.1 mm) copper over the burner of my (gas) kitchen stove. Using the stove means that both of my hands are free, which makes it easy to hold and burnish the foil. I use this method when the piece is flat and the area in contact with the copper is conveying enough heat. A hotplate will also work to fuse gold foil to fine silver. If you use an electric hotplate, make sure it’s stable and can reach temperatures of 500–800°F (260–427°C).…

Take a PAINTERLY APPROACH to Mixing Metals

You say the word “gold,” and most people think, “jewelry.” Gold rings, gold torques, a glowing array of solid gold wearable pieces. But there are different ways to create the look of solid gold or gold accents without the high cost, including gold plating, Korean keum boo, traditional gold leaf, fusing, and mercury gilding. (I’ve never tried mercury gilding, and for good reason — I want to live a few more years. It was outlawed in France in 1830.) Aura 22, a gold metal-clay slip, is a relatively new way to add gold to fine silver, sterling silver, and copper. The technique of applying Aura 22 to copper is simple, uses no expensive or exotic equipment, and is safe. If applied and fired properly, the finished sheet can be etched,…

Take a PAINTERLY APPROACH to Mixing Metals

Super pickle is a generic term for a family of hydrogen peroxide, sodium bisulfate (Sparex), and white vinegar pickles. They are used with copper or copper-bearing alloys, such as brass and bronze. It is also good for pickling nickel to remove the copper flash that appears after it’s heated. This recipe contains only sodium bisulfate and hydrogen peroxide, though other variations may contain white vinegar. Recipe Pour 16 fl. oz. (473 mL) of hydrogen peroxide into a plastic or glass container. Mix in 2 oz. (56.7 g) of sodium bisulfate until it dissolves. Disposal/Reuse Place steel wool into the pickle to remove the copper from the spent solution. The steel wool pulls the copper out of the pickle almost instantly, turning it pink/rust colored. Dispose of the steel wool. The…

CERAMICS & PORCELAIN

In the jewelry world, “clay” has come to mean metal clay or polymer almost by default. But take a step back to the more ancient forms of clay, and see how adventurous jewelry makers are using those forms to break new ground in their field. Whether on its own, combined with metal or stones, left to imitate bone or stone, or glammed up with colorful glazes, ceramic and porcelain are prime for use by jewelers. The clay can take almost any form, texture, or color, and the medium’s essential fragility makes it all the more striking and precious.…

CERAMICS & PORCELAIN

“Ever tried? Ever failed? No matter. Try again. Fail again. Fail better.” —Samuel Beckett To contact the featured artists, see Contacts, page 79. Want more inspiration? You can see these and over 450 other pieces that have been featured in our Gallery at www.artjewelrymag.com/gallery. To contact the featured artists, see Contacts, page 79.…

Change up Your CHAIN MAIL with TWISTED RINGS

materials for a 71⁄4-in. (18.4 cm) long bracelet ■ Color-coated (“Enameled”) copper jump rings: ■ 16-gauge (1.3 mm), 5 mm (0.188 in.) inside diameter (ID), rose gold, 65 ■ 16-gauge (1.3 mm), 4 mm (0.156 in.) ID, antique copper, 165 ■ Twisted, XL, 8 mm ID, rose gold/antique copper, 20 ■ Color-coated (“Enameled”) copper S-hooks, rose gold, 2 ■ 24-gauge (0.5 mm) copper wire (optional) toolbox, page 77 ■ Chain mail Find out where to buy supplies, page 79 See Safety Basics, page 76 Color-coated copper jump rings are a wonderful and inexpensive way to add color to chain mail, while twisted jump rings are an easy way to add texture. But when you combine both of those attributes — wow, now you’ve got something! The twisted jump rings are…

Change up Your CHAIN MAIL with TWISTED RINGS

color-coated jump rings

Although the color-coated copper jump rings are generally sold under the term “enameled copper jump rings,” the coating isn’t enamel in the classic sense. A vitreous enamel coating would envelop the copper ring in a layer of colored glass. And although it would be beautiful, it would make opening and closing the rings impossible to do without chipping and breaking off the enamel. Wire is coated in plastic, then wound into coils and cut into jump rings. This is why you see the copper core at the cut. When the rings are properly closed, the copper should not be visible. The plastic coating, while durable, it is not indestructable, and it can be accidentally scratched or damaged with rough handling or sharp tools.…

ASK THE ARTIST: THERESA D. ABELEW

What studio mistake have you learned the most from? “I like to make chain mail in the car, especially during long road trips. But about 50 miles into one 1,600-mile trip, I discovered I’d brought the wrong size jump rings. Without easy access to my stash, I was forced to work with what I had. There was plenty of colorful language at first, but it forced me to experiment, and that’s how I created my first original chain mail design, the Anansi Knot (right).” Contact: www.tdabelew.com…

ASK THE ARTIST: THERESA D. ABELEW

Message Tube Locket

Every once in a while, I get a really good fortune from a fortune cookie — a sort of “words-to-live-by” inspiration. I stuff it in my wallet, and over time, it gets so mangled and dirty that I can no longer read it. I came up with this tube design to not only protect the tiny messages but to be able to wear them when I need a little extra motivation. Depending on the size locket you make, there’s no limit to what you can hide in it. Love notes, rolled photos (printouts work best), pills, toothpicks … you decide! Patinated locket, above center: Citrine bullet cabochons cut by John Chickadel, Pike Creek Cabochons. materials ■ Sterling silver sheet: 24-gauge (0.5 mm), 31⁄2 x 31⁄2 in. (89 x 89 mm)…

Message Tube Locket

When CRAFT and BIKES COLLIDE

WHAT IF YOU COULD TAKE YOUR JEWELER’S BENCH outside, set it up wherever you wanted, and involve the public in your process? Michael Dale Bernard and Rachel Andrea Davis turned that idea into a reality. What began as an offhand comment evolved into a universityfunded research project to bring the art of metalsmithing to public spaces in Milwaukee. And so it begins “I want to do something like that.” While making 400 brooches for the 2013 SNAG (Society of North American Goldsmiths) Conference, Michael Dale Bernard and Rachel Andrea Davis watched two craft-advocacy videos by Gabriel Craig (see “Video Advocacy,” page 64). In the performances, Craig advocates for handmade craft, either by engaging the public with a jeweler’s bench in the city or by taking on the role of a…

When CRAFT and BIKES COLLIDE

Two craft-advocacy performances by artist/activist Gabriel Craig spurred Bernard and Davis to create the ArtCycle. • PRO-BONO JEWELER: In this series, Craig took his bench outside every week for a month to share handmade jewelry with the uninitiated. He gave away silver rings, but people had to participate to receive one. He’s taken this combination of jewelry and performance to the streets in three states. It’s a reminder of how exciting it is to discover the making process. • THE GOSPEL ACCORDING TO CRAFT: This performance piece took place in Richmond, Va. Craig used the form of sidewalk religious preaching to share craft with a wider audience. Intending to attract and repel, and to capture onlookers’ instantaneous response, he forces people to reconsider their expectations when faced with a man…

ASK THE ARTIST: ANNIE PENNINGTON

What studio mistake have you learned the most from? “The biggest learning experience I’ve had didn’t happen to me. A friend of mine forgot to tie her hair back one time, and leaned in too close to the flex shaft while she was using it. She lost a large chunk of hair, and she’s lucky her scalp stayed intact! I used to keep a hair tie on my bench, but now, I keep a hair clip on the flex shaft itself. It’s loose on the shaft, so it knocks against the handpiece. I see, hear, and feel it every time I grab the handpiece, and I’ve yet to forget to keep my hair pulled back.” Contact: www.anniepennington.com…

ASK THE ARTIST: ANNIE PENNINGTON

Depletion Gilding vs. Depletion Silvering

Depletion gilding. Raising the fine silver. Depletion silvering. All are used to describe the same process, but one is more accurate than the others. And here’s why. To “gild” is to cover something with a thin layer of gold. “Depletion gilding” is the removal of other metals from the surface of a gold object, leaving a richer-gold layer on the surface. Since the term “gilding” specifically refers to gold, the process of removing copper from the surface of a silver alloy would more accurately described as “silvering.” Now, I realize the usage of “depletion gilding” when referring to silver will continue (even though I wish it wouldn’t); I just want to make you aware of the distinction. The same goes for the phrase, “raising the fine silver.” It may seem…

Depletion Gilding vs. Depletion Silvering

Join the Makerspace Movement!

What do you get when you take all kinds of craftspeople, engineers, and tinkerers and put them together in a room with a bunch of tools, hardware, and raw materials? Probably some innovations that would make Dr. Seuss proud. And that’s just what a makerspace — whether it’s a portable supply cart, a nook in a library, or a 5,000-square-foot former industrial facility — is for. More than a space, it’s an idea. What’s a makerspace? Think of a makerspace as a wonderland for people looking for “a spark of inspiration, a fresh angle,” says Goli Mohammadi, the first editor of Make magazine. Make Media, the umbrella for the magazine and the Maker Faire conventions, has been a force in the growing tech-influenced maker movement, which celebrates handson creativity, innovation,…

Join the Makerspace Movement!

maker-in-residence programs

“One of the questions that people who are setting up makerspaces always ask is, ‘How do I get people to share their skill set?’” says Goli Mohammadi, the former editor of Make magazine. She encourages them to put a call out to the community. And that’s where you can step in. Many spaces have established maker-in-residence programs, where you can use studio space, help members with their projects, and innovate ways to collaborate. To learn more, check out Maker Ed’s Youth Makerspace Playbook (makered.org/youth-makerspace-playbook): Fill out the online form to let makerspace organizers know what you have to offer. The entire Maker Ed’s site is full of resources and suggestions for ways to get involved; profiles of existing makerspaces are housed along with advice on how to set up a…

a makerspace near you

There are makerspaces around the United States and beyond — too many to list in one article! Use your web savvy and phone skills to find one in your neighborhood. A good place to start is spaces.makerspace.com/makerspace-directory. Here are just a few active, thriving makerspaces in the U.S.: Sebastapol, Calif. Chimera Artspace www.chimeraarts.org 6791 Sebastopol Ave. Baltimore, Md. Baltimore Node www.baltimorenode.org 2106 North Lovegrove St. OpenHack: Thursdays, 7 pm Columbus, Oh. Columbus Idea Foundry www.columbusideafoundry.com 421 W. State St. Philadelphia, Pa. NextFab www.nextfab.com 2025 Washington Avenue and 1227 North 4th St., Open Studio (at North Fourth location): Wednesdays, 6–8 pm Austin, Texas ATX Hackerspace www.atxhs.org 9701 Dessau Road Open House: Tuesdays, 8–11 pm Houston, Texas Houston Makerspace www.houstonmakerspace.com 3605 Texas St. Maker Market & Open House: every 3rd Saturday of…

ESSENTIAL BEGINNER TECHNIQUES

No matter what medium you work in, there are some jewelrymaking techniques that are so essential, you’ll use them in nearly every project you make. These tutorials will walk you through the beginner techniques that you’ll need to learn in order to make the projects in this issue. metalworking techniques SOLDERING Use 400-grit sandpaper to clean the metal you plan to solder. Solder won’t fill gaps; surfaces must be clean and in complete contact with each other for solder to flow. Apply flux to the metal to prevent oxidation and to help solder flow. Heat the entire piece evenly, not just the solder, and keep the torch moving in a circular motion. If there is more than one solder join in a piece, solder the first using hard solder, the…

ESSENTIAL BEGINNER TECHNIQUES

WHERE TO FIND IT

contacts When contacting artists via email, please put “Art Jewelry” in the subject line. GALLERY page 45 ■ Cyd Rowley, www.facebook.com/cydrowleyjewelry ■ Norman Man, www.facebook.com/waclaw.cycko ■ Ali Wieboldt, etsy.com/shop/aliwieboldtjewelry ■ Angela Garrod, www.clayninepolymerdesigns.co.uk ■ Annie Pennington, www.anniepennington.com ■ Helen Breil, www.helenbreil.com ■ Liz Hall, www.lizardsjewelry.com ■ Ann Marie Cianciolo, annsjewelry.com ■ Joan Tenenbaum, www.joantenenbaum.com ■ Laritza Garcia, laritzagarcia.com suppliers MAKE YOUR GOLD GO 4X FURTHER page 29 ■ Silver and gold sheet: Hoover and Strong, www.hooverandstrong.com ■ Pickle (PhDown): local pool supply store ■ Rolling mill: Otto Frei, below ■ Rolling mill textures: local craft store, fabric store, or found materials ■ All other tools and supplies: Rio Grande, below GENERAL SUPPLIERS • Otto Frei: 800.772.3456, www.ottofrei.com • Rio Grande: 800.545.6566, www.riogrande.com TAKE A PAINTERLY APPROACH TO MIXING METALS page…

WHERE TO FIND IT

Adirondack Sunset

“I imagine myself camping lakeside with my family. The kids are tucked in for the night, leaving behind the silence that only a parent could appreciate. Nestled into my fireside chair with a glass of wine, I peacefully enjoy the view of the marshy end of the lake. The silhouette of a lone tamarack makes a statement against the changing sky. The silence is broken only by the crackling of the fire as the sun slowly creeps down below the horizon, illuminating the distant peaks.” Julie Leininger, an environmental engineer turned jewelry artisan, describes the vision she summoned when she first held this agate cabochon in her hand and the creative spark for this piece struck. Taking cues from the cab itself, she pierced the back of the pendant to…

Adirondack Sunset

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