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29 Articles

THEORY OF evolution

Lately, I’ve been thinking a lot about my grandmother and the way she shopped for beauty. She would go to a department store, head straight to the one makeup counter that had sales associates who looked like her (Fashion Fair Cosmetics) and purchase everything she needed. For skin care, she relied on her local Mary Kay saleswoman. Decades later, when it came time for me to wear makeup, my experience was pretty similar. My mother drove me to the nearest mall with a MAC counter (by that time, MAC had become the one brand that every Black woman under 40 relied on for foundation) to get my first set of makeup (foundation, mascara, blush, and my very own Chestnut lip liner and Lipglass combo). For skin care, I headed to a…

THEORY OF evolution

Q+A ORIGIN STORY

JC: As I’m thinking about Allure, I keep coming back to the word “evolution.” Not only the evolution of beauty journalism, but also of our industry and the culture of beauty. LW: [When we started Allure], the industry was shocked that we were asking questions about the safety and efficacy of products, about the way we look and why is it important, [as well as] the uglier side of beauty. We were staking out our territory, but also letting readers know that we have their interests at heart and are someone they can trust. JC: Today, Allure stands in that gap of being a watchdog for an industry that doesn’t have one. The FDA isn’t there. I like to believe that the reporting we do has made the industry better. LW: I think…

Q+A ORIGIN STORY

“I always think about the atmosphere, the camaraderie. There was such great joy in working at Allure. I was always laughing. The staff was fabulous. The music would be blaring in the fashion closet. We wanted to produce a great magazine and I think you felt that we were all in this together. Linda and I were both strict about what we wanted, but the strictness allowed us to produce really good work. When you’re working with a supermodel like Cindy Crawford on set, everything looks great. But can we one-up it? Can we make it better? Can we make an image you’re going to remember? We can do a nice image, but what we want is to make a lasting image.”—PAUL CAVACO, FORMER CREATIVE DIRECTOR “My first year as an…

BEAUTY REPORTER

Rhapsody in Blue What we call “twilight,” Guerlain calls L’Heure Bleue. We don’t know precisely when perfumer Jacques Guerlain first beheld the fragile minutes after the sun has just set, when the still-warm indigo sky glows like velvet and it’s not yet “night.” But we do know it was 110 years ago that he attempted to bottle the moment with a mix of tuberose and rose that settles in a powdery iris finish. Now, the house has reissued the big, blue hour in a very big, blue bottle that’s velvety to the touch, finished in matte International Klein Blue, as if dip-dyed into the twilit sky itself. (This ultramarine color was trademarked in 1957 by French artist Yves Klein, who created a famous monochrome painting with the shade.) The one-and-a-half-liter size,…

BEAUTY REPORTER

THE LOWDOWN Take all the elegance of a ballerina bun and multiply it by 1,000 when you nestle a simple black bow on top, like at Brandon Maxwell’s fall show (right). (Add a little French braid if you’re really feeling ambitious.) This math holds for low ponytails too. Hairstylist Sunnie Brook likes Jennifer Behr’s bow clips or simply tying ribbon to a bobby pin prepped with hairspray. ON THE BRIGHT SIDE No bun skills? No problem. Find inspiration from Sandy Liang’s spring show (left): Take the small section of hair that’s in front of your ear and pull it back with a bow, says Brook, “or the bow can play peekaboo if you pull your hair to one side and secure it almost at the middle-back [of your head]. First, for more grip,…

It’s the stuff of birthday cakes and ’90s perfumes: Vanilla is nostalgia bottled, and this winter there are many ways to spritz on sentimentality. Indie fragrance houses like Ellis Brooklyn and By/Rosie Jane are putting vanilla front and center in their launches. “You’d think we got together and were like, ‘Hey, let’s all do vanilla,’” says Rosie Jane Johnston, the perfumer behind her namesake brand. “But everyone gravitates emotionally toward the same things.” Right now, that’s one big olfactive yearning for the days of mall hangouts and baking with mom. “With the chaos over the last three years, I wanted something completely uncomplicated; the ’90s were a more innocent time for me,” says Johnston. “Everyone was wearing vanilla and everything smelled like it: The Body Shop, candles, vanilla-scented Beanie Babies—everything.” The…

I’ve always been a creative person and loved nail art since I was little. But I never got to go to the salon. I’ll find photos from when I was 12 to 15 of my badly done nails—and at the time, I thought it was so good. [When I was 18], I enrolled in a fine arts course at Central Saint Martins UAL in Kings Cross, London, specializing in sculpture. It’s mainly a fashion school and everyone is dressed in their own designs. A few of my friends had amazing nails. I’d never seen gems and mirror powder on nails and I wanted beautiful, long nails too. So I bought a polygel kit from Amazon and got good at building a really nice-looking nail. When the pandemic started I had nothing to…

MOOD BOARD babylon

FROM THE COSTUME DESIGNER You get to see the beginning of Hollywood. It was very sexy, very risqué. Damien didn’t want it to look like another 1920s movie, so it’s a combination of references like Studio 54 (that kind of debauchery). For [actor] Li Jun Li, I found a beautiful ’20s men’s top hat (right). Then I cobbled looks together from flea markets, Etsy, vendors all over. With Nellie [Margot Robbie], her opening [red] outfit is a scarf. Maybe a half-yard of fabric I loved, made into a top and tap pants. [Robbie’s] mood board was provocative and daring. You wanted to be surprised by every change she had. —MARY ZOPHRES FROM THE HAIRSTYLIST When you think of the ’20s, it’s the bob and finger waves, [but Chazelle] wanted to stay away from the…

MOOD BOARD babylon

On her first-ever red carpet: “I had no reason to be [at that awards show] other than I got an invite from my publicist. I remember just being terrified. I remember my knees shaking aggressively, because it was so strange.” On paring down: “I used to get so embarrassed when I’d open my bathroom cabinet, because I had endless mountains of products that I’d been told to get and hadn’t quite finished, and they just collected dust. So I love that now, I have a really minimal three-, four-step routine that I know works. I definitely encourage a good sunscreen. My favorite is Avène Cleanance Sun Cream SPF50+—it’s in that lovely orange bottle. I wash my face, maybe use a cryoball [facial massager] from the freezer. The Noble Panacea Chronobiology Sleep…

pricks of the trade

Much like makeup can convey a character’s emotions or help drive a story without a word being uttered, nudity itself is becoming a character on television—both literally and figuratively. Take Pam & Tommy, the limited series based in part on the 2014 Rolling Stone article about Pamela Anderson and Tommy Lee’s stolen sex tape. Before the premiere, chatter revolved around Lily James’s uncanny resemblance to Pam. After critics were able to preview the show, however, Tommy’s talking, er, Little Tommy became the focus. And the forthcoming phallus walked us right into the penissance of 2022. That level of humanization (several penis puppeteers were involved) is an extreme example of this new cinematic era. But just as New York was almost a character in Sex and the City, nudity is taking on…

pricks of the trade

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TALKING BEAUTY WITH Symone

My mom, she always loved to dress up, and she was a very big proponent of if you leave the house, you try to look your best. We would always end up being late because she spent so much time getting ready. I started paying attention when I six or seven years old. I remember she would put on foundation and she’d always look so beautiful. That carried over when I started doing drag because I always focus on the skin the most. Becoming Symone took a while because when I started doing makeup at about 16 years old, I didn’t really know what I was doing. There wasn’t YouTube. Well, there was YouTube, but it was nowhere near what it would be a couple of years later, as far as…

TALKING BEAUTY WITH Symone

Black Panther: WAKANDA FOREVER

Creating the hair and makeup looks for the highly anticipated sequel to Black Panther would be a tall order on any day. But filming in Atlanta during the humid days of summer presented a particularly challenging set of circumstances for hair department head Camille Friend and key makeup Kimberly Felix-Burke. Another challenge? Many of the film’s pivotal scenes take place underwater, which required shooting in tanks. “We’d have to get in there and do touch-ups [on the actors],” says Felix-Burke, who notes that the citizens of the underwater kingdom of Talokan were painted head to toe in blue. (It was makeup department head Joel Harlow’s idea to use paint rollers to streamline the process.) Of course, the final looks (including Lupita Nyong’o’s locs and the colorful patterns painted on Danai…

Black Panther: WAKANDA FOREVER

THE FACE CHART WITH rosie huntington-whiteley

The model has been in the makeup chair since she was a teen and picked up a trick or two along the way—so much so that she’s done her own glam for past events. “I love the time to myself,” says Huntington-Whiteley. These days, her vanity also serves as a testing ground for Rose Inc, the makeup line she launched last year. Before the products come to life, though, Huntington-Whiteley often puts her ideas on paper, so it’s no wonder she knew exactly what to do when we sent a blank face chart in her likeness. “A soft, feline flick is my signature,” she says, adding that a wash of brown shadow on the outer corners of lids and beneath the lower lash line helps with definition. A dab of…

THE FACE CHART WITH rosie huntington-whiteley

My homework for the week was to say no—and I couldn’t stop apologizing for it. “No, I don’t want to listen to your sad-boy music,” I told my boyfriend as he picked up our car’s aux cord. “I’m the driver, and I want to listen to Dua Lipa.” (Sorry.) “No, I can’t use my last seven PTO days to go on a trip with you,” I told my mom on the phone. (My bad.) And when the editor of this story asked if my draft was ready, I Slacked back, “Nope, not yet. I need a few more days.” (Okay, in this case I actually was sorry.) I know that no means no. No is, as Instagram infographics have informed us for years, a full sentence. So why did I…

the year in beauty

For 30-plus years, Allure has been reporting on those ever-more-frequent moments when beauty bursts from its narrow lane of hair, makeup, and skin-care trends to dominate the news and occupy a central space in popular culture. In 2002, when Botox was approved by the FDA as a temporary treatment for frown lines, the media became obsessed with suburban Botox parties and a free-floating anxiety that human faces would soon lose forever the ability to express emotion. (Apparently, the word “temporary” had temporarily lost its meaning.) Starting with two royal weddings (in 2011 and 2018), the incredible trendsetting power of the Princess of Wales and the Duchess of Sussex ruled the click economy. For eight years (2009 to 2016), anytime Michelle Obama changed her hairstyle, people lost their everlovin’ minds. (On…

the year in beauty

JUSTICE FOR ALL

Fulfilling a campaign promise that had helped propel him to the presidency, Joe Biden nominated Ketanji Brown Jackson to the Supreme Court. She is the first Black woman in history to have scaled this Everest of American Constitutional law. The honor was deeply humbling, as she frequently has said, but more importantly, it was earned. Not that there weren’t indignities to endure along the way. At her confirmation hearings, one senator asked Brown Jackson to define a woman (a favorite transphobic bomb lobbed by the right) and another seemed to need her to explain how internet porn works. Through it all, she maintained a preternatural calm, wearing an expression of composed exasperation on her face that MSNBC host Joy Reid described as “every Black woman ever.” After Brown Jackson officially…

JUSTICE FOR ALL

SERVING greatness

None of us wanted to face it. Yet it had to happen sometime. Serena Williams announced this year not that she was retiring (there are few people to whom that word applies less) but “evolving away from tennis” to concentrate on other pursuits. Millions can remember the particular thrill of seeing her take the court at Wimbledon, Roland-Garros, or the Australian Open. If you were ever lucky enough to witness this in person, the excitement was that much more palpable. And her explosive energy during play was breathtaking. Her farewell match this September in Arthur Ashe Stadium at the US Open seemed to encapsulate 27-plus years of her legend. The 23-time grand slam singles champion and four-time Olympic gold medalist strode onto the court to thunderous cheers and applause that…

SERVING greatness

TO BOLDLY GO If Nichelle Nichols is any measure, there must be amazing beauty salons in space. For three seasons (1966-1969) of the original TV run of Star Trek, and in several of the movies that came later, she provided intergalactic glamour. She was a constant on the bridge of the Starship Enterprise as Lieutenant Uhura, chief communications officer. There she was at her blinking console, sitting with a dancer’s posture, the picture of futuristic efficiency in a ’60s bouffant, winged eyeliner, frosted lips, and green hoops (or other statement earrings) under her signature silver earpiece. She considered leaving the series after the first year to do a Broadway show, but, as the Los Angeles Times recounted after her death, a chance meeting with Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., an avid…

After decades of repression, Iranian women had finally had enough. The spark that lit the flame of protest this year was the death of 22-year-old Mahsa Amini while in the custody of Iran’s much-feared morality police. She had been detained for allegedly wearing her headscarf too loosely, a violation of the country’s strict dress code. Her family said she was beaten to death. Women (and men) took to the streets to demonstrate their outrage at the country’s authoritarian regime. They marched. They chanted. They lit fires. Some women publicly cut off their hair or tossed their headscarves into the flames, an act of almost unimaginable bravery. A violent crackdown by the government ensued and continues to this day. There are many women in Iran and around the world who wear…

When you’re fighting an information war, you don’t turn down an opportunity to reach millions all over the world. Ukrainian first lady Olena Zelenska’s message discipline, whether speaking to the US Congress, the Biden administration, international news outlets, or Vogue has been remarkable. She and her husband, President Volodymyr Zelenskyy, have shown themselves to be tremendously skilled at rallying hearts and minds (leading to dollars and weapons) to Ukraine’s side. Predictably enough, the Vogue shoot attracted criticism—from those who said it glamorized war (it did not) and, bizarrely, from those who thought Zelenska was sitting in an unfeminine way. (Yes, WTAF?) Women supporters of, you know, sanity, began posting pictures of themselves sitting in a similar fashion with #SitLikeAGirl. Zelenska told the BBC: “I believe it is more important to…

For those who walk red carpets, these corridors of fame can be places to make a few viral waves…and maybe even a salient point. This year, these three women weren’t afraid to reveal something of themselves—and perhaps the power of vulnerability. Cara Delevingne The model and actor appeared on the Met Gala red carpet in a Dior Haute Couture pantsuit. She removed the jacket to reveal her gold-painted, chain-draped torso. Eye catching, for sure, but nothing that unusual given the venue and the “gilded glamour” theme. But Delevingne pointedly left her psoriasis flare-ups unpainted, an act widely praised for raising awareness of the disease. Florence Pugh After wearing a sheer pink dress to a Valentino show in Rome, Pugh had choice words for the body-shamers: “So many of you wanted to let me know…

THE SCIENCE OF BEAUTY Allure

A NEW PODCAST HOSTED BY JENNY BAILLY, EXECUTIVE BEAUTY DIRECTOR, AND DIANNA MAZZONE, SENIOR BEAUTY EDITOR Join Allure as we explore the inextricable link between science and beauty — and don’t be surprised if you discover your next favorite serum, hair mask, or scalp treatment along the way. If you’ve always wondered what a wrinkle actually is and how retinol can make it go away, or why your hair is curly and which polymers will give it the most spring, come get nerdy with us! LISTEN & SUBSCRIBE TO THE SCIENCE OF BEAUTY WHEREVER YOU GET YOUR PODCASTS…

THE SCIENCE OF BEAUTY Allure

TikTok has become known as the birthplace of bonkers trends—bucket bunnies, NyQuil chicken, the corncob challenge. Some are silly and harmless, others bizarre and dangerous. It’s no different with beauty. So we present the 2022 TikTok beauty matrix: Dangerous, harmless, useless, and effective are points on the compass. See if you agree with what goes where. PERFUME AS BUG REPELLENT Yes, Victoria’s Secret Bombshell may repel female mosquitoes, but it could also attract other insects. SKIN CYCLING A four-night regimen that alternates between active ingredients and rest is actually a pretty great plan. GYM LIPS If you want to work out with overlined lips and a heavy dose of balm, no harm done. TANNING NASAL SPRAY Inhaling L-tyrosine to increase melanin production has no proven efficacy—or safety. KIDCORE A refreshing, rainbow-colored middle finger to minimalism and “clean beauty” CONTOURING WITH SUNSCREEN Strategically…

If we’re being literal, the hills above western Los Angeles are actually the only place where Jennifer Aniston is the girl next door. That’s what people called her for a long time. The girl next door, which is a ’90s euphemism that means she’s unintimidating, approachable. But here, along avenues of impermeable iron gates, among houses hidden behind hedges grown to make sure you know your place, the vibe is pretty intimidating. To live here, one assumes, you have to have achieved a certain kind of Olympian status, like having been among the most beloved figures in American pop culture for 30 years. This is what I’m thinking when the gates to her house swing open and I enter onto a pea stone car park. Pruned trees, gurgling fountains, 500-foot-tall front…

THE SWEET SMELL OF THE SET

If you watch old episodes of Inside the Actors Studio, you’ll learn about the method and process that actors use to become other people. Leonardo DiCaprio slept inside an animal carcass to prepare for his role in The Revenant and Tom Holland secretly shadowed a student at a Bronx high school before filming Spider-Man: Homecoming. One thing you won’t hear about is perfume. But it has quietly become a character-development tool on sets and sound stages. Susan Sarandon, who wears a different scent for each of her movies, shared the strategy with Kirsten Dunst, who has used it too. So have Gugu Mbatha-Raw, Emma Stone, and Penélope Cruz. “It’s a wonderful secret weapon,” says Laura Linney, who has also used fragrance to get into a character’s headspace. “It just hits…

THE SWEET SMELL OF THE SET

STROKES OF GENIUS

A Rosy Outlook Cheekbones achieve new heights when saturated with color and contrasted against bleached-out brows dusted with yellow shadow. Isa Boulder top. To create a similar makeup look: Artist Color Shadow in Buttercup and Chalk, Artist Face Color in Raspberry, and Ultra HD Lip Booster in Cinema by Make Up For Ever. Blue Note The key ingredient here: Nars Tinted Smudge-Proof Eyeshadow Base Primer. It holds on to powders for dear life “and it’s totally transparent, so I can use it on dark and light skin tones,” says Gibrien. Icy Hot Warm colors like red, orange, and pink take on a fresh effect when contrasted with a cool metallic silver, says Gibrien. Feeling Flush When you’re wearing a teal micro bob, your statement has been made. So, for her part, Gibrien says, “I thought just a…

STROKES OF GENIUS

Blonde AS METAPHOR

Pigeon dung. Horse urine. Mud. Peroxide and ammonia. Soap flakes, bleach, lemon juice. Gold dust and dye made of saffron, the most expensive spice in the world. All of these have something in common: humanity’s relentless obsession with blonde. People across time and civilizations have subjected their hair fibers to all of the above in pursuit of becoming more blonde. There is something about what it means to have golden hair, to have the kind of beauty that poets have written epics about, the kind that soldiers kept grainy photographs of in foxholes, that makes coating your hair with pigeon dung seem rational. Blonde is a dream to hold on to. Blonde is glamour, sex. When you think of a “blonde bombshell,” you think not only of the woman herself…

Blonde AS METAPHOR

…to 1991, when Allure began, and ’80s turquoise shadows with red lipsticks were just starting to give way to the frosted champagne lids and metallic lip colors of the ’90s (déjà vu, anyone?). Here, two of the grunge decade’s beauty heavyweights—makeup artist Kevyn Aucoin and Naomi Campbell—teamed up to help us forecast what would become an enduring trend of the era: “Dramatic eyes and neutral lips make for a striking contrast. But earth tones, not brights, define the look,” Allure wrote in the November issue that year.…

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